forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Under Construction => Topic started by: Umlaufmotor on August 21, 2022, 09:53:57 PM
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Hello all,
The 1/32 Special-Hobby Morane-Saulnier Type "N" is finished.
https://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=13046.0
Now some other already started WK1 models are waiting for their completion in my shelf (some of them for years!)
Some time ago I had started with three Wingnut-Albatros models, these shall now be finished together here in the build-log.
This is a D.V from the first series, Wn.: 1187/17, flown by Vizefeldwebel Bansmer at Jasta 10.
This maschine carries the early headrest behind the cockpit and is decorated with a black and white checkerboard pattern on the fuselage sides, the wheels and the underside of both wings.
(https://up.picr.de/44216508kq.png)
(https://up.picr.de/44219956kt.png)
Number two is an Albatros D.Va (OAW) from Kest 7, then stationed in Düsseldorf.
There are original pictures showing Pour le merite holder Paul Bäumer next to the aircraft.
This machine is shown in an interesting white/red livery with a two-tone comet on the side.
(https://up.picr.de/44216513za.jpg)
Number three, also an OAW D.Va, Wn.: 6633/17, was flown at Jasta 78b by Michael Sigmann.
This aircraft shows some small stars on its fuselage tail on black-blue paint.
(https://up.picr.de/44216510rb.png)
As always, most of it will be built out of the box, but here and there some scratch-building will be necessary.
I would be happy if you would join me in building the three models.
Servus
Bertl
Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
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Wow!! The factory is cranked up!! Really looking forward to the Sigmann machine.
Steve
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Fantastic, three times the fun (a la RAGIII). Looking forward to your progress. :) :) :)
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Yes indeed, it is not so easy to build three models at the same time.
Although all three are almost of the same type.
I take my hat off to the model builders who build different models at the same time.
Back to the built report - let's start with it.
Absolutely unusual, we start this time with the exhaust.
You can tell from some parts of the Albatros kit that it was one of the first from Wingnut Wings.
The exhaust opening is completely missing, also welded seams of the pipes formed from different sheet metal parts are missing.
Well, I will do without most of the welds, but at least I will show the opening and the flanged edge.
First, I file the exhaust port so that it will be flat.
(https://up.picr.de/44217420bg.jpg)
Then I apply a seam around the end of the exhaust with hot-drawn casting rod.
Glues very well with Tamiya extra thin plastic glue.
(https://up.picr.de/44217421gm.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44217422ow.jpg)
The freshly glued plastic seam should dry for a few hours before the exhaust opening is milled free with suitable cutters (Dremel).
Pay attention to the material thickness, in the original the exhaust is made of very thin sheet metal.
This means, that as much as possible material is milled off from the exhaust opening on the model.
Step by step, the opening can be milled out further and further. Be careful not to mill or grind off the glued seam - this is required.
I smoothed the glue trace on the outside with fine steel wool BEFORE milling out the opening.
(https://up.picr.de/44217424dj.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44217423rp.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Nice start!
Steve
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For further processing on the exhaust, it is recommended to make a "bracket".
Two tailpipes were drilled to fit a wire to be able to glue - At this wire, the exhaust can be held very well between the fingers.
The first color application was made with Mr. Metalcolor "Iron".
No airbrush etc., just dab on regularly with an old brush.
It can be quietly dabbed several times.
It is important that the entire plastic surface is dabbed.
DO NOT POLISH!
(https://up.picr.de/44217425ii.jpg)
Then, next, dab with Mr. Metalcolor "Dark Iron" - but not the entire surface as before but only very irregularly, unevenly.
DO NOT POLISH!
(https://up.picr.de/44217426uf.jpg)
The result doesn't look so bad, does it?
(https://up.picr.de/44217427ku.jpg)
But we're not done yet - a third coat of paint is dabbed on - Mr. metalcolor "Stainless" -- but be careful, only apply a few thin taps here. It is best to rub the brush almost dry.
DO NOT POLISH!
(https://up.picr.de/44217428xs.jpg)
This is the preliminary final result.
After the paint was dabbed on, there is no brush stroke, etc., to be seen, only irregular paint application of the three different colors.
It almost looks like burnt metal.
Again:
Very important, although these are polishing paints, DO NOT POLISH!
Polishing the applied colors would destroy the complete color effect.
(https://up.picr.de/44217429nm.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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The fourth color.
Now comes airbrushing.
With very diluted Gunze H453 "Rust-Red" (in German Rostrot), rust spots are sprayed on in various places. Here you can spray as you like - but remember, less is more.
The exhaust pipes were in the rarest cases completely rusted.
Have a look at the original photos for comparison.
(https://up.picr.de/44217430js.jpg)
It was not painted more on the three exhaust pipes on the outside.
The inside of the exhaust port can be painted with matte black.
A few light gray or almost white traces can also be applied to the inside.
(https://up.picr.de/44217440jl.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44217436mx.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44217433ii.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44217432tj.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44217431mn.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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A few more exhaust pictures of the three models.
Interesting the color differences when illuminated by the table lamp or the flash of the camera.
Again, a note:
Do not polish and do not seal with clear coat or similar after rust treatment.
The color effect would be destroyed.
(https://up.picr.de/44217439sl.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44217419xn.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44217418ag.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44217416eh.jpg)
Thus, the topic of exhaust would be done for the moment.
Servus
Bertl
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Ah, nice to see this, Bertl. The exhaust opening trick looks great, and not too late for me to try on my current project ::)
Cheers,
Gary
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Man! You're on fire :o
Long may that continue.
Cheers,
BB ;)
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Thank you so much for that wonderful tutorial on painting the exhaust manifold!
--Michael
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Quite a challenging project Bertl but mere putty in your capable hands. I'm looking forward to following this one and really like the schemes you've chosen, I still have a V and a Va in the stash and watching this may bring them closer to the assembly line! Great start!
Cheers,
Lance
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Oooooooh I'm excited!!
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Thank you so much for that wonderful tutorial on painting the exhaust manifold!
--Michael
👍👍👍
/Fredrik
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Bertl, I would be most interested in more information on the Albatros D.Va of KEST7 as well as the photo you've mentioned (Bäumer)! I once wrote an article which dealt with Heimatluftschutz and the KESTs and am interested in that topic ever since…
By the way: Can't wait to see your „Albatrösser“ come to life!
Richard
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@rhwinter
You got a PM ;)
@FAf
@sagamore
Thank you Fredrik and Michael
@KiwiZac
I hope I do not disappoint you, Zac ;)
@Icarroll
Yes, it is sometimes a bit tedious to do all the steps three times - but OK, it works.
I have three more Albatros projects in mind, but let's wait for the current ones to see what the results will be.
I look forward to seeing pictures of your D.V and D.Va.
Start with that Lanc!
@gedmundson
Hi Gary, thank you.
Yes, actually an easy trick with the exhaust.
The later wingnut kits are already much better modeled at this point.
@bobs_buckles
Hi Bob, thank you.
After getting through a hernia surgery this week, I hope to be able to post more pictures again.
Slowly I feel better again.
Servus
Bertl
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Some pictures of the seat belts.
I used paper harnesses from Radu here.
Unfortunately, these are no longer available for purchase.
However, the HGW belts are also very usable.
I am not a friend of etched parts, at least for the belts.
Whenever possible then HGW or just earlier Radu.
But anyway, here it is actually primarily about the metal parts on the belt.
These (all etched parts) are meticulously deburred, primed with Mr. Metal Primer and painted with RLM02.
After the paint had dried well, some paint was removed from the edges.
This can be done easily, either by scraping off (too much paint can be removed quickly) or - better - by forming some very fine steel wool into a small sausage between the fingers and rolling it over the metal parts.
Always test immediately so that not too much color will be removed.
The belts are then aged as usual.
(https://up.picr.de/44218458qh.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44218457oo.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44218463fi.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44218462lw.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44218460ox.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44218456wy.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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:)
Alexis
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Thank you @Alexis ;)
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Continue with the three seats.
I reworked the kit seats a bit.
I wanted to make extra seat cushions for the Jasta10 D.V and the OAW D.Va.
Sigman's D.Va is supposed to be built without a seat cushion as I assume the pilot has already flown the plane with a parachute.
The two seat cushions are scratch-built, the seats themselves have also been revised.
I started with the missing stitching on the leather upholstery.
I used two pictures of a D.V seat which I found on the www as a template.
(https://up.picr.de/44218313qj.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44218312ry.jpg)
For the presentation of the seams I made a small groove, so that the seams, created from a hot-drawn casting, find their position.
(https://up.picr.de/44218314hz.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44218315og.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44218317km.jpg)
Of course, the cast seat cushions had to be removed. These were scraped off with a scalpel blade.
Nice to see how thin the seat boards are after this procedure.
(https://up.picr.de/44218318ql.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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The seams were glued in with Tamiya liquid glue.
After the glue had dried well, the seams were sanded even thinner with steel wool.
The third seat was created a little later, I switched from originally two Albatross to three during model building.
I thought to myself, if you are already building two, then the effort for a third Albatros will no longer matter ::)
(https://up.picr.de/44218320cu.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Now for the production of the two new seat cushions.
These were created with the simplest of means from waste plastic.
You hardly need any special tools here, except maybe a Dremel with a ball end mill.
A pair of wire cutters, a drill (diameter 0.4 or 0.5mm), rough sandpaper, steel wool, a tealight, a sharp scalpel blade, scrap plastic and a little patience.
The waste plastic:
(https://up.picr.de/44218327cs.jpg)
The contour of the seat is required.
Make two equal parts and glue them together so that the pillow is not too thin.
(https://up.picr.de/44218346ed.jpg)
When the glue has dried, the contour can be sanded.
The pillow gets its shape.
Use the seat as a template.
Now the holes for the buttons are drilled.
Everyone is free to choose how many buttons to fasten. don't take too many ..... but of course not too little either.
Original images often help.
(https://up.picr.de/44218348du.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44218349pi.jpg)
The cushion gets its special surface with a ball end mill.
Think how crumpled a leather pillow can look, which parts of the body leave which indentations...
(https://up.picr.de/44218350mk.jpg)
The cushion is now smoothed with the sandpaper.
Folds can be drawn outwards in a star shape from each button using the scalpel blade.
The depth of the fold should be deeper near the button - further out it becomes shallower.
Here as an example the cushion of the Morane.
(https://up.picr.de/44249234ml.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Now for the representation of the buttons.
I used 0.5mm resin rivets which were glued in here.
(https://up.picr.de/44218352ar.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44218353yf.jpg)
However, the buttons can also be made with hot-drawn plastic castings.
Here as an example the seat cushion of a WNW Pfalz D.IIIa.
(https://up.picr.de/44249237op.jpg)
But you can also choose the noble version - golden brass buttons.
The decision is up to each individual.
In the picture a seat cushion of a WNW Pfalz D.IIIa.
(https://up.picr.de/44249229cw.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44249228ya.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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When the buttons are inserted, the surface is smoothed again with fine steel wool.
I usually make smaller creases on the outside of the pillow with very rough sandpaper.
This makes the pillow look more original.
But the pillow isn't finished yet, the outer seam is still missing.
Here again, hot-drawn plastic castings are used.
Glued with very thin glue, the casting branch can be neatly adapted to the outer contour of the cushion.
Then everything is polished with steel wool.
Here a Pfalz D.IIIa cushion,
(https://up.picr.de/44249243kh.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44249242gc.jpg)
And here's a pillow for an albatross. Once with the seam
(https://up.picr.de/44218360bv.jpg)
and once without.
The difference is clearly visible.
With an outer seam, the pillow looks much more original.
It's both times the same pillow.
(https://up.picr.de/44218359qf.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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All seat cushions are made, all seats are prepared.
Now it's time to paint.
First all seams, buttons and edges are pre-shaded with matt black.
(https://up.picr.de/44218389vf.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44218391tb.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44218390cr.jpg)
Now a glazing layer Tamiya XF-55 Deck Tan
(https://up.picr.de/44218392qh.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44218393rv.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44218394cr.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Now the seat and seat cushion are painted in several thin layers with a 50:50 mixture of Tamiya X-26 clear orange and X-9 brown.
(https://up.picr.de/44218395ve.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44218399op.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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To create the typical spotted top layer of the seat covers I used Mr. Weathering WC03 for the light base color and WC02 for the darker spots.
Both colors were dabbed on with a brush and then left in the display case to dry for several days.
First the light base WC03
(https://up.picr.de/44227063bz.jpg)
then the darker WC02
(https://up.picr.de/44227062da.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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After a few days everything can be polished with a smooth cloth or kitchen napkin.
The light traces on the seat and the surface of the cushions, which will show a little wear and tear from the use in the air-field, were dry-painted with light sand color.
(https://up.picr.de/44218432rl.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44218430rz.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44218428lf.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44218403hw.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44218402uo.jpg)
The seats and the two seat cushions are now complete.
Best regards, see you soon.
Servus
Bertl
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My hats off to you - a very brilliant tutorial on the seats. You are such an artist with basic materials.
Cheers,
Gary
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@KiwiZac
I hope I do not disappoint you, Zac ;)
I've gone through your latest update. I have total faith in you 8)
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...and again a great lesson in modeling and painting ! Looks stunningly good, thank you for sharing.
I wish you continued good recovery after surgery and look forward to your next posts .
Jörg
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Excellent work, and a wonderful visual reference too!
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@gedmundson
Thank you very much Gary.
You are right, I prefer to work with the simplest materials ;D
@KiwiZac
I am honored Zac - thank you for your confidence ;)
@Jorgo
Thank you very much Jörg.
So slowly but surely I feel better again.
It will be alright ::)
@William Adair
Thank you very much William :)
Servus
Bertl
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A few simple parts for the cockpit.
The three rudder bars.
The retaining brackets for the feet are bent from thin copper wire.
I bent the copper wires around a piece of round wood to get an almost exacte radius.
They are glued with super glue.
If the end of the wire is bent a little, the angle is correct and it is easier to glue.
Do not forget to drill the two holes for the control cables.
(https://up.picr.de/44255394ht.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44255395rh.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44255396sq.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44255397mf.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44255398vj.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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The metal parts of the rudder bars are painted with RLM02 and the shelf for the shoes with leather brown.
A little aging/weathering with diluted oil paint broth.
At the pivot point some grease can be shown with a little black oil paint.
The control cables for the rudder are made with 0.08 or 0.10mm fishing line.
(https://up.picr.de/44255435or.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44255434hw.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44255436rr.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44255440zz.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44255439oy.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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The control sticks need more attention.
The two MG triggers are cast as one part.
Also missing are the clearly pronounced indentations for the thumbs.
First, the MG trigger is filed cleanly flat.
(https://up.picr.de/44255417td.jpg)
Then a small ball end mill is used to make the indentations.
The cutter can be turned between the fingers, there is not much plastic material which has to be removed.
(https://up.picr.de/44255489ka.jpg)
After that, the MG trigger is split with a resin saw.
(https://up.picr.de/44255487dw.jpg)
Now we are much closer to the original than before.
(https://up.picr.de/44255421sq.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44264050uc.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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The handle of the control stick is cast a bit too dense on the model.
It is carefully scraped thinner with a sharp scalpel blade.
(https://up.picr.de/44255406ds.jpg)
The throttle lever and the throttle body for the throttle lever are made from waste plastic.
The retaining strap is made with a little Tamiya-tap.
Don't forget the screw connections for the wooden grips - use a thin drill to mark the screw heads.
(https://up.picr.de/44255409wg.jpg)
And also don't forget to drill the two holes for the throttle cables on the bottom side of the throttle body.
(https://up.picr.de/44255408ng.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44255407es.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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:o
😳
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In the original, the control stick could be easily and quickly fixed in its respective position with a toggle lever.
This was necessary to keep the pilot's hands free in case of jammed MGs.
The toggle lever can be created quickly and easily with copper wire.
(https://up.picr.de/44255424gl.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44255423zk.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Drill some holes on the control stick to fix and redirect the control cables for elevator and aileron.
Also two holes for the two MG triggers are needed.
The complete control stick is painted with RLM02.
The bare metal parts of the clamping slide are painted with Mr. Metalcolor "Iron" or "Dark-Iron".
The idler pulleys are painted in rust-red.
With a new, pointed thin brush this works quite well.
The wooden grips are painted with "Radome" and get a wood grain with oil paint.
Weathering/aging again with highly diluted oil paint.
(https://up.picr.de/44255426yb.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44255425xx.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44255427uq.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44255428hn.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44255429iq.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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After painting, the Bowden cables and control cables are glued in place.
I used black painted fishing line for the bowden cables (throttle and MG trigger) and silver painted fishing line for the control cables (aileron and elevator).
We start with the two bowden cables for the throttle - the two bowden cables lead from the throttle to the carburetor.
(https://up.picr.de/44255444rk.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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I don't know how you do it, but you're doing it again.
I have a feeling this is going to be yet another masterclass.
In trifold.
Willem
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Now the two bowden cables for MG -trigger
(https://up.picr.de/44255453vy.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44255451qi.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Now the control cables for elevator operation.
These run partially over pulleys.
(https://up.picr.de/44255448ze.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44255445ss.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44255447ct.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44255446vk.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Finally the control cables for the ailerons.
In the picture the control stick for the D.Va.
Unfortunately I missed to take a picture of the D.V control stick.
The differences are related to the routing of the aileron control cables.
On the D.Va, these run through the lower wing and are redirected upward to the ailerons in the area of the V-Struts.
On the D.V, the aileron control cables run upward in front of the pilot into the upper wing and are redirected to the ailerons there.
(https://up.picr.de/44255449bm.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Here is one of the two D.Va control sticks with all bowden and control cables.
Ready for installation.
BTW:
All fingers on my hand are OK, it only looks so strange because I had the control stick clamped between index and middle finger .... ::)
(https://up.picr.de/44255455mg.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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:o
😳
I don't know how you do it, but you're doing it again.
I have a feeling this is going to be yet another masterclass.
In trifold.
Willem
Thank you Richard and Willem ;)
Servus
Bertl
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Bertl, you may have mentioned this earlier, but do you use any kind of magnification device to perform these surgical procedures?
Willem
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Bertl, you may have mentioned this earlier, but do you use any kind of magnification device to perform these surgical procedures?
Willem
@Rookie
Hi Willem,
I always work with strictly legal methods 8)
I use a table lamp with a magnifying glass ..... but OK, ..... the big secret is the kind of music I listen to during such operations - only Heavy Metal!!!
Mostly Black Sabbath.
If I need a particularly steady hand, then Ozzy with the song "The Warning" ;)
Servus
Bertl
That's all.
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Here are a few wooden boards from the cockpit.
Base color in this case Gunze "Radome".
Partially at the edges or borders some shading with Tamiya "Smoke".
The wood grain is applied with oil paint.
I like to set small accents in the wood with a little darker or reddish oil paint.
The parts in the pictures were made three times each.
The retaining board for the fuel distributor and fuel filter will be dealt with separately (first Foto)
A hole for the actuating levers must be drilled as centrally as possible in each of the four plaques.
Unfortunately, the levers are not included in the kit.
(https://up.picr.de/44264537de.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44264536su.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44264535en.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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I'm sticking with the fuel distributor retaining board.
The four badges and the fuel pressure gauge are painted with Tamiya "Semi-gloss-black".
A thin pointed brush is needed for this.
Don't forget the four screw heads, these will be painted with RLM02.
The tip of a toothpick is the best "brush" here.
(https://up.picr.de/44264680zj.jpg)
After that, the five decals are applied.
When the decals are well dried, the four switch levers can be made and glued in place.
The picture shows one of the levers. They are made of simple copper wire.
(https://up.picr.de/44264560uy.jpg)
The levers are very easy to make.
Cut a piece of copper wire, bend it 90° in the middle, flatten one side with a suitable flat pliers, file the flat end a little round and you're done.
(https://up.picr.de/44264564yy.jpg)
Push through the board and glue on the back.
Then cut off either with a little overhang or flat.
(https://up.picr.de/44264702gb.jpg)
A very simple but effective detail to make the cockpit more interesting.
The four levers are painted with Mr. metalcolor "brass" after gluing.
The glass on the fuel pressure gauge can be rendered with clear varnish or, as in my case, with a drop of Vallejo "Still Water".
After that some weathering and the fuel distribution board is ready for installation.
(https://up.picr.de/44264704fh.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44264700pd.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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The compass.
Very nicely modeled by WingnutWings, but it needs some rework.
(https://up.picr.de/44264528im.jpg)
When the model rests on the tailskid, the compass must have the correct slope to the ground.
Use a resin saw to cut the ends of the compass housing.
(https://up.picr.de/44264530ef.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44264527kx.jpg)
A ruler and the construction plan help to determine the correct angle of inclination.
Carefully bend to fit and then glue at the saw points
(https://up.picr.de/44264531ld.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44264532cb.jpg)
The compass is painted with Tamiya "Semi-gloss-black".
(https://up.picr.de/44264538dm.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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The screw fittings and screw heads are painted with Mr.Metalcolor "brass".
(https://up.picr.de/44264551cv.jpg)
At the place on which the decal is applied, it is painted with glossy clear.
(https://up.picr.de/44264550xa.jpg)
Now apply the decal, let it dry and simulate the glass again with clear varnish or "Still water".
(https://up.picr.de/44264557wk.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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The air pumps stay OoB.
The brass body is painted with Mr.Metalcolor "brass", the brackets with RLM02, the upper and lower end cap of the brass body with Mr. Metalcolor "aluminum" and the handle with Gunze "Radome".
(https://up.picr.de/44264558as.jpg)
The wood grain on the handle I painted this time with a slightly redder oil color.
I wanted some optical variety with all the wood in the cockpit.
At the end a little weathering with highly diluted dark oil paint broth.
A little tip at this point:
I sawed through more than half of the back side of the sprue where the kit part is cast on.
This was done before painting.
This makes it very easy to remove the part from the sprue without having to do much cleaning with a file or knife.
(https://up.picr.de/44264565mv.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
-
The mounting board for the Bosch ignition switch and the lever for "early - late" ("Früh - spät" in German) ignition adjustment.
The Bosch ignition switch is painted with Mr.Metalcolor "brass" and the holder for the ignition adjuster in RLM02.
Do not forget to paint the screw.
(https://up.picr.de/44264543fr.jpg)
The ignition switch for the D.V model was reworked a little.
Here I have removed the lever (which is actually a key) from the Bosch ignition switch and indicated the "keyhole" with a drill.
The key will later dangle on a thin chain qver the side on the outside of the cockpit.
(https://up.picr.de/44264542kr.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
-
Next kit part is the rear wall behind the pilot seat.
WingnutWings has this part designed to give the impression that it is a complete wooden wall.
But that would be wrong.
The frame was crossed out diagonally in the shape of an "X".
This frame was closed with fabric - very similar to a curtain.
This "curtain" is relatively quick and easy to make.
But more about that tomorrow.
(https://up.picr.de/44264570sa.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
-
Amazing work as always! I am taking notes for my 1/48 build!
Cheers,
BC
-
Amazing work. I am in awe of the talent on this site. From the tiniest of scale to this magnificent display of craftsmanship in larger scale! Eagerly looking forward to seeing more!
-
Absolutely fantastic detailing! What a joy to watch this come together.
Chad
-
Wow, that is a real show. I still remember the Albatros model you built some years ago, which was an inspiration for me. Now this is it again, only multiplied three times. I will be watching with the same thrill as then.
-
@Brad Cancian
@Tim Mixon
@Luftace
@PrzemoL
Thank you very much for your nice comments :D
@PrzemoL:
You probably mean this Jasta 6 Albatros D.V from Lt. Hans Adam.
I built them many years ago.
At that time there were no after market accessories for engine, cockpit etc., you had to scratch build everything if changes or more details were needed.
(https://up.picr.de/44274699pz.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44274732bx.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44274729ix.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
-
Back to the current Albatrosses.
The back panel for the two D.Va - Albatros.
I used the model back panel as a template to draw the outlines on a 0,12mm Evergreen plastic card.
(https://up.picr.de/44264570sa.jpg)
Then I drew the outer line offset inward by about 1 - 1.5mm.
(https://up.picr.de/44264572yu.jpg)
The sketched template is cut out with scissors
and checked on the model back panel to see if it fits.
(https://up.picr.de/44264573uy.jpg)
The test showed that the back panel fits. I made a second Evergreen card for the second Albatros D.Va.
Both cards were painted gloss white.
(https://up.picr.de/44264575hj.jpg)
Then an Aviattic fabric decal was applied.
(https://up.picr.de/44264580gz.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
-
The "fabric back panels" were glued to the kit back panels with a little super glue.
(https://up.picr.de/44264581ho.jpg)
It doesn't look so bad after all.
(https://up.picr.de/44264582xl.jpg)
Well, I was not quite satisfied yet, because in the original, the fabric back panels were attached to the wooden back panel with snap fasteners.
The snap fasteners should also be visibly represented on the model.
There is the possibility to show them as painted dots or to actually use "push buttons".
I decided to actually show them as parts.
I used resin rivets for this.
For this, suitable holes had to be drilled.
(https://up.picr.de/44264579ld.jpg)
Here is a test to check if the size of the rivets fits in scale.
(https://up.picr.de/44264584ky.jpg)
I think that fits.
The advantage of the resin rivets, they do not need to be painted, they already have the RLM02 color.
Now the holes for the rivets - sorry, for the push buttons - are drilled in the appropriate distance.
(https://up.picr.de/44264592yu.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44264591us.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
-
The front side with all the rivets.
(https://up.picr.de/44264588bn.jpg)
The rivets are glued to the back.
(https://up.picr.de/44264587hv.jpg)
Here now is the back panel with seat and snaps. I think this looks quite usable now.
(https://up.picr.de/44264586im.jpg)
After that, the back wall is lightly weathered with diluted oil paint.
A nice touch would be to let the fabric between the snap fasteners a bit from the back wall, or to provide it with folds - - maybe on the next Albatros ::)
(https://up.picr.de/44264684fv.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
-
The rear panel of the early Albatros D.V should be shown without fabric.
For this purpose, the X - crossing had to be depicted.
In a data file I found a suitable picture which I used as a template for the representation of the "X".
(https://up.picr.de/44264743jz.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44264745ci.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44264744xc.jpg)
So far so good ..... now of course, a little bit of the inner fuselage structure had to be represented.
I used Evergreen plastic rods for this purpose
(https://up.picr.de/44264752jy.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44264751gr.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44264754nu.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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The fuselage need to be reworked a bit to get a more realistic touch.
The holes for the landing gear bracing are drilled out,
(https://up.picr.de/44271701yd.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44271695xc.jpg)
also the holes for the cartridge case tubes,
(https://up.picr.de/44271703ye.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44271700hf.jpg)
and of course for the control cables.
Additional work will be needed later on the top side at the control cable opening.
(https://up.picr.de/44271699gp.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44276489vj.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
-
The fuselage inside can also be reworked quite a bit.
For example, the holes for the turnbuckles for tensioning the landing gear.
The hole for the turnbuckle should be set at an angle, so that it is in alignment with the hole for the fuselage-exit of the tensioning rope.
(https://up.picr.de/44271697zg.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44271698ri.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44271694ry.jpg)
The ejector marks should also be removed.
They can be filled or scraped out.
I decided to scrape them out.
(https://up.picr.de/44271656bh.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Bertl, as always an incredibly good build report! And by the way, the wood grain on the Hans Adam Albatros is extremely well done !
All the best
Jörg
-
Seeing all the work you're putting in makes me smile. It looks fantastic - all of it!
-
@PrzemoL:
You probably mean this Jasta 6 Albatros D.V from Lt. Hans Adam.
I built them many years ago.
At that time there were no after market accessories for engine, cockpit etc., you had to scratch build everything if changes or more details were needed.
(https://up.picr.de/44274699pz.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44274732bx.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44274729ix.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
Yes, that is the one. Still inspiring...
But when I built mine (2013) I was already using Taurus resin bits for Mercedes engine...
-
@Jorgo
Thank you very much Jörg.
If you knew how many times I washed off the oil paint until I was satisfied with the wood grain.
@KiwiZac.
Thank you very much.
Yes, there are a few small things that can be refined on the kit, a big help is the WingnutWings web page with the excellent pictures AND @Jamo, who always delighted me with first class pictures of the New Zealand Albatrosses.
@PrzemoL
When I started with my Albatros there were unfortunately no after market parts.
But Taurus-Models (Lukasz) brought within a very short time excellent accessories on the market.
This man is just great.
Servus
Bertl
-
Back to the model.
If you have a scalpel blade at hand to remove the ejector marks, you can also scrape off the cast-on wooden grips to the left and right of the pilot's seat.
(https://up.picr.de/44276676mr.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44276675an.jpg)
With Evergreen plastic, the two handles can be very easily and quickly reproduced true to the original.
(https://up.picr.de/44271743jt.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44271745dq.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44271749ft.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44271747ys.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
-
And since Evergreen plastic is being used, the stiffening frame under the rudder bar can also be made with it.
This Part is unfortunately missing from the kit.
Make sure, that the two openings for the landing gear bracing are located in front of the stiffening frame!
(https://up.picr.de/44279475bk.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44271755rl.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44271741vs.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
-
In the meantime, all frames of the three models can already be primed and woodgrained.
(https://up.picr.de/44280239uj.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
-
The fuel tanks and ammunition boxes can also be painted already.
Once all the paints are dry, the fuel tanks and ammunition boxes can be attached to the bulkhead.
Note that the bulkhead has some brackets which are not cast on the model.
Paint these brackets with RLM02.
The metal parts are primed with Mr. Metalprimer.
The tank is painted with Mr. Metalcolor "brass" and the ammunition boxes are painted with Mr. Metalcolor "Aluminium", then dabbed with "Stainless" and polished.
Aging with a little diluted dark oil paint broth and Tamiya "Smoke".
The hinges for the small opening on the empty belt box can be painted with some darker color.
(https://up.picr.de/44278985an.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44278991iz.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44278990ng.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44278994eq.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44278993gk.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44278992cq.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
-
The grease pump for water pump lubrication is also prepared.
The bracket for it is shortened a little so that the pump can be mounted closer to the pilot seat.
Half a millimeter is enough to allow the small pipe to pass the bulkhead moderately.
A small hole must be drilled at the end of the grease gun to attach the small pipe.
The body of the grease gun, which was made of sheet metal, is painted "stainless", the small handle, which was made of brass, is painted "brass".
A very small kit part, but a lot of work ....
(https://up.picr.de/44278977vl.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44278978mx.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44278976ji.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44278975yc.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44278983pk.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44278982fy.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
-
The fuel gauge also needs attention.
Silver the dial background and bezel, black the case and RLM02 the bracket.
The connecting nut for the fuel line in brass.
And the two screw-on something darker green.
...... so five different colors.
(https://up.picr.de/44279059cz.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
-
The holding trestle for the MG's is prepared.
On the model here is a part of the MG's anmodeliert - I did not like that, I wanted it a little more true to the original.
It will then be painted with RLM02.
The tour counter in black with silver bezel.
Weathering with some dark oil paint.
A few scratches were also applied.
The trestle will be modified in more detail later - but more about that later.
(https://up.picr.de/44271736ye.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44271735pa.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44271737ya.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44271738xi.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44271739hj.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Some of the finished parts are waiting to be installed.
The glasses were rendered with Vallejo "Still water".
(https://up.picr.de/44279000sr.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44279002ry.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44279001gr.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44278998mz.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44278996cb.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Component "D12" connects three frames in the cockpit.
The pilot's seat is also held there.
Unfortunately, this is a very fragile matter. In addition, these parts break extremely easily.
I therefore made more stable brackets from various materials.
(https://up.picr.de/44279049gy.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44279050bd.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44279051xz.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44279052zs.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44279053nv.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44279048ud.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
-
Note the kit part "A21".
(https://up.picr.de/44279049gy.jpg)
This fuselage bulkhead needs two holes to pass the control cable of the rudder control.
(https://up.picr.de/44279054sd.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44279055af.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44279056df.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
-
Time to paint the fuselage halves on the inside.
It's a good idea to mask off all the glue joints on the inside of the frames.
The manufacturing tolerances on this model are very tight.
If there is any paint on any of the glued areas, nothing will fit neatly together.
(https://up.picr.de/44280891ko.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44280892sz.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44280890ft.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44280251dn.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44280252kq.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44280253pc.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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While the paint is drying on the fuselage halves, the aileron control pulleys of the two D.Va models can be prepared and painted.
(https://up.picr.de/44279478jz.jpg)
The brackets are painted with RLM02, the pulley in rust red.
(https://up.picr.de/44279504jw.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
-
Now the more difficult part on the pulleys.
In one of the previous posts I wrote that the aileron control on the D.Va Albatross runs through the lower wing.
The aileron control cables are attached to the boom of the control stick (yellow arrow).
(https://up.picr.de/44279513ob.jpg)
Each of the pulleys now needs a small hole so that the control cable can be attached to the pulley.
(https://up.picr.de/44279505rn.jpg)
The control cabel are shown with fishing line.
This fishing line is painted in matte silver and is attached with superglue in the pulley.
(https://up.picr.de/44279506yh.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44279507gu.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44279503lh.jpg)
That was all for today - more then probably tomorrow.
Servus
Bertl
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Great stuff! I love to see detailing at such a fine level and you execute it very well. I am taking notes to improve my Eduard kit.
Chad
-
Fantastic work and presentation! You are obviously a very skilled modeller, and skill is absolutely a part of making a very good model, but I really like the fact that you show how much of good modelling is about patience and doing things step by step. One can at least be fooled into thinking that 'I can do that too'... 😀😀😀
Cheers
Fredrik
-
You've set up quite a production line for your three Albies.
I would go berserk keeping track of all the different parts...
Hats off!
Willem
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@Luftace / @FAf / @Rookie
Thank you very much, Chad, Fredrik and Willem.
Well, you mention the word "patience" and exactly that is the key word and the secret behind it.
The craftsmanship, the skills, they probably have all the modelers represented here in the forum.
However, you also have to have the patience to keep going when things go wrong, to keep trying until it works.
I also had my problems in the past, if something did not work after the second attempt, then I lost interest.
But with advancing age, I also became more patient, at least in model making ::)
Often it is first only a thought, an idea which lets one try out some things.
All the more beautiful when the thought can be converted into a nice result with one's own hands.
The following is an example of the Albatros D.V
In the original picture you can see a signal pistol on the right side of the cockpit.
This signal pistol, I thought, you can also attach to the model, but just with some details.
So I started, after thinking, with the gimmick..... and with some patience:
(https://up.picr.de/44285553mf.jpg)
First, all signal cartridges are removed from the kit part and the cartridge holder is drilled out to fit the cartridge.
(https://up.picr.de/44285554ry.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44285555rh.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44285557cc.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44285556ez.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
-
Next, we need two identical signal guns.
Wingnut has placed some of them on the different sprues, so there should be enough pistols in the Spar box.
The pistols need to be cut up.
(https://up.picr.de/44285558er.jpg)
Once we need a barrel and once the grip with the holder for the barrel.
Both parts are now machined until they fit together neatly.
The grip piece gets a firing pin made of flattened and filed copper wire.
(https://up.picr.de/44285562yy.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44285560zw.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44285559uo.jpg)
The barrel is shown unfolded, but first it is drilled through completely lengthwise.
(https://up.picr.de/44285561gm.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
-
Now back to the flares.
In my material box for model building I found suitable material for the representation of the cartridges.
A thin tube made of exactly the right material: aluminum.
Now the real gimmick began.
(https://up.picr.de/44285563re.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44285542kh.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44285543lc.jpg)
The pistol can now be loaded with a cartridge.
Sure, the aluminum tube still has to be filed flat and deburred at the ends and a small washer has to be glued on one end.
But in principle it would work.
What I want to say with this, without a portion of patience such gimmicks in model building would not work.
But you all know that.
Servus
Bertl
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This is just insane Bertl
Alan.
-
Quickly to the further processing and painting of the signal pistol.
It was painted with several thin layers of Tamiya X-18 "Semi-gloss-Black" and a drop XF-10 "matte brown".
(https://up.picr.de/44285544lw.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44285545wg.jpg)
A wire loop is inserted on the underside where the handle is located.
Pay attention to the angle how the pistol will be mounted later on the aircraft, the metal ring was attached to the pistol rotatable (there was attached for the infantry a thin loop for the hand from leather straps etc.).
Due to the movable attachment, the thin metal ring logically follows the law of gravity.
(https://up.picr.de/44285546bn.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44285547mu.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
-
Now the two wooden grips are painted.
As base color I used Tamiya XF-59 "Desert yellow"
(https://up.picr.de/44285548hl.jpg)
Do not paint the entire grip!
The grips were screwed on the right and left, in between the metal of the gun should be seen.
(https://up.picr.de/44285549gj.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44285550gh.jpg)
After the oil paint was dry, the complete flare gun was lightly fogged with Tamiya "Smoke".
(https://up.picr.de/44285552ce.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44285551ot.jpg)
Thus, the flare gun would be completed.
As I said, this is just a tiny example of thought, trial and patience.
Servus
Bertl
-
This is just insane Bertl
Alan.
Many thanks Alan :D
-
Back to the aileron control of D.V and D.Va
The pulleys of the D.Va were mounted inside between the rudder bar and the tank.
On the outside of the fuselage thin sheet metal plates were screwed against them.
(https://up.picr.de/44285697vb.jpg)
Wingnut Wings has considered these sheet metal plates on the model.
And now it will be interesting for all those who build a D.V (!)
There, the cast-on sheet metal plates on the model fuselage should be removed and the panelline to be re-engraved.
Albatros D.Va
(https://up.picr.de/44279476ts.jpg)
Albatros D.V
(https://up.picr.de/44279479sm.jpg)
The text in German on this picture means with the D.Va (above) with metal plate on the outside and the D.V (below) without metal plate on the outside.
(https://up.picr.de/44279480nv.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
-
The first internals can now be mounted in the two halves of the fuselage.
In the right fuselage half, the small reinforcing bulkhead for below the rudder bar, the compass and the turnbuckle for the landing gear rigging.
Here the Albatros D.V
(https://up.picr.de/44285729fm.jpg)
In the left half of the fuselage, the turnbuckle for the other side of the landing gear rigging.
Unfortunately, the sheet metal bracket on the turnbuckle attachment is not cast on.
But that's not a big problem because it can be represented quickly and easily with color.
I used RLM02 for this.
Maybe as a small tip:
After the RLM02 paint had dried, I traced the contour of the bracket with a sharp pencil to give it more optical depth.
(https://up.picr.de/44285732sw.jpg)
Here as a test fit, both fuselage halves together.
(https://up.picr.de/44285730kx.jpg)
That was all for today - thank you.
Servus
Bertl
-
The flare gun is truly magnificent madness. WOW!!
-
The flare gun is truly magnificent madness. WOW!!
@KiwiZac
Many thanks, Zac ;)
Servus
Bertl
-
Engine bar, cockpit bulkheads, tank and ammunition boxes are triple completed so far.
(https://up.picr.de/44285856tr.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44285857ld.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
-
Other cockpit internals on all three Albies.
(https://up.picr.de/44301813kp.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44301814cj.jpg)
Both Albatros D.Va .... here the ignition key is in the Bosch ignition switch ready to start.
(https://up.picr.de/44301800xq.jpg)
Albatros D.V .... here the ignition key was removed, it hangs later on the chain and dangles outside the cockpit.
(https://up.picr.de/44301799sf.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
-
Very nice wood grain inside the fuselage. You start with Tamiya flesh it looks like? What oil colors do you use?
-
I removed the molded electrical cable from the Bosch ignition switch and replaced it with a real cable.
So this cable can be pushed under the starter solenoid when the front bulkhead is installed.
A tiny step towards more realism.
(https://up.picr.de/44301805rk.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44301806yr.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44301801xd.jpg)
With this picture I am already a few steps ahead, but here in the red circle you can see how I mean it.
(https://up.picr.de/44302593pm.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
-
Very nice wood grain inside the fuselage. You start with Tamiya flesh it looks like? What oil colors do you use?
@phil2015
Hi Phil,
I started with Gunze "Radome", this was used to prime the inside of the fuselage halfs.
Then a few spots here and there with some thinned yellow and partly also thinned white.
With Tamiya "Flesh" I painted the stringers and the diamond-shaped flat wooden strips next to the seat.
The wood grain was done with oil paint.
In this case with color "raw sienna".
Servus
Bertl
-
The X-shaped bulkhead behind the pilot seat is open on the Albatros D.V.
Here, therefore, the access hatch had to be depicted directly behind the pilot.
You don't see too much of it, so I depicted it with the simplest of means.
(https://up.picr.de/44301817wo.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44301821vk.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44301818we.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44301823gb.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44301822xx.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44302638xg.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
-
On the two OAW-D.Va Alba's, the standard grips on the tail had to be closed, filed and the panellines re-engraved.
OAW alba's have a kind of rod in the fuselage rear, so that the Tail can be lifted up in the back.
These holes must also be drilled.
(https://up.picr.de/44279494bu.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44279491sg.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44279493is.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
-
I also made a small change to the tail-skid.
This was cut out of the fuselage.
(https://up.picr.de/44279498oc.jpg)
The missing metal fitting was supplemented with some Evergreen plastic.
The cast-on rubber cord was also removed.
I only left a small "nose" which will later serve as a stop so that the tail-skid can be glued at the correct height.
This "nose" will later be covered by a thin wire, which represents the rubber cord.
(https://up.picr.de/44279844uv.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44279845fc.jpg)
The three tail-skids were primed with Tamiya XF-59 "desert-yellow".
(https://up.picr.de/44279846ez.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
-
The metal parts on the tail-skid were painted with RLM02.
The wood grain was done with oil paint.
In this case with "burnt sienna".
(https://up.picr.de/44279838hg.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44279837mv.jpg)
After that, a small weathering with highly diluted dark brown oil paint broth
BtW:
The previously described "nose" as a stop can be seen very well at the end of the tail-skid.
(https://up.picr.de/44279835hr.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
-
Since the tail-skid was cut out of the fuselage, a bracket had to be installed to attach the rubber cord.
A thin wire made of brass serves this purpose.
A groove must be milled in the right place on both sides of the fuselage for this purpose.
Goes quite well with the Dremel and a small ball end mill.
(https://up.picr.de/44279496wr.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44279842kw.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44279840qh.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
-
The tail-skid in the original was wrapped with canvas, soaked in glue, so that it becomes very stable and can not break.
Here as an example the D.Va from TVAL
(https://up.picr.de/44279841ml.jpg)
I thought I could try this on the model.
I used very thin tissue paper and cut a strip about 1mm wide.
The strip was fixed with wood glue and wrapped around the tailskid.
At the end, the stripe was fixed again with wood glue.
I am not 100% satisfied with the result, but I will leave it that way.
Maybe a rip tape decal would have been a better choice in this case.
(https://up.picr.de/44279851hu.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44279849cn.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44279850vf.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44279852kh.jpg)
That's it for today - thanks for looking.
Servus
Bertl
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Very impressive construction work. But I'm also very impressed by your research on the mechanics of the planes. What reference material do you use?
-
Very nice work! I love reading each new update, something new to learn each time, thanks for sharing your skills with us.
Chad
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Fantastic work you are doing here. I am in awe at the talent in this forum.
-
Beautiful work(again) I think the tail skid wrap works as it represents clearly that the skid is, in fact, wrapped. Any tighter/smoother and it would just appear painted.
Steve
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@phil2015
I use all the information material I can get my hands on. Datafiles, Pics on the Internet or my well-filled library.
Also always interesting picture information on the Wingnut and the vintage aviator - Webside.
Here as an example:
https://thevintageaviator.co.nz/content/albatros-dva-framework
@Luftace
Thank you for the kind comments Chad.
I see you are building a super Albatros in 1/48.
Everything is one size smaller and more difficult.
Hats off to this great work.
@Tim Mixon
I saw your excellent work in the "Completed Models" section. Absolute masterpieces.
I would never have the patience and skill to build vacuum models.
This is what I call talent and craftsmanship. Thank you for posting your fine models.
@pepperman42
You're probably right about that Steve, it was looking wrapped and thats OK.
I'm not going to change anything now, but I think you know what it's like when you're not completely happy with your own work.
I never am....
Servus
Bertl
-
The fuel distributor and switching valve.
I used a 3D printed part from Shapeways this time.
A few matching copper wires represent the fuel lines.
Don't forget the drain line.
At this point, a piece of pipe will also be inserted on the outside of the fuselage later, which is the continuation of the inner drain line.
(https://up.picr.de/44314142do.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44314144xs.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44314148iy.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44314152te.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
-
The grease pump pipeline was represented with a sleeve and two hose clamps.
The sleeve is the insulation of a thin cable which was pushed over the copper wire.
The hose clamps were made from thin wires.
(https://up.picr.de/44314146zn.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44314149yr.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
-
And other fixtures in the cockpit.
The Seatbelts are also already mounted.
The picture shows the Albatros D.V with the open rear panel.
(https://up.picr.de/44314152te.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44314151vt.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
-
Now the MG traverse is completed.
With quite simple means the mechanical gas actuation for the carburetor is shown.
(https://up.picr.de/44314156pj.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44314157rl.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44314158mx.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44314159hz.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44314160ai.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44314161hw.jpg)
Greetings
Bertl
-
The copper wire handle and the actuating rod are glued together with super glue.
(https://up.picr.de/44314163rf.jpg)
I used small parts (#33) from a leftover etched parts set to represent the mount.
(https://up.picr.de/44314168pl.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44314170gp.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44314169un.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
-
The mechanical carburetor actuation in the original.
(https://up.picr.de/44314351ft.png)
(https://up.picr.de/44314350na.png)
And here thirty-two times smaller.
(https://up.picr.de/44314178lh.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44314177sz.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44314173jx.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
-
The two long metal bolts with which they are supported on the bulkhead are missing on the left and right of the model MG traverse.
These are represented with resin screws and plastic rods.
When installing the traverse, the plastic rods are adjusted accordingly and glued.
Unfortunately, I did not have any resin screws which would be long enough so that I could make it easier.
(https://up.picr.de/44315065ui.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44315066ko.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44315071ls.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
-
(https://up.picr.de/44315064sl.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44315068zo.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44315067lh.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44315069we.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44315070ao.jpg)
That's all for today, see you again soon.
Greetings
Bertl
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As brilliant as always! Thanks for the tour!
/Fredrik
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Exquisite!!
-
I was impressed before today's updates. Now I have to go the doctor - i think i broke my jaw it hit the floor so hard....
-
Thank you for continuing to share your ingenious processes!
Steve
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@Faf / @KiwiZac / @phil2015 / @pepperman42
Thank you very much Fredrik, Zac, Phil and Steve
The next component in the Albatross cockpit is the actuating rod for the "Früh - Spät" ignition adjustment.
The lever for this is included in the kit and is mounted on the left side of the cockpit.
The rod can, of course, also be installed when the fuselage halves are glued together, but then the procedure is much more complicated.
In this case, the linkage is installed beforehand.
I used 0.4mm brass tube which is bent according to the original.
The brass tube is fixed in the bulkhead next to the ammo box.
I drilled a 0.4mm hole for this purpose.
The position must be determined beforehand.
The appropriate length for the brass tube is determined by repeated fit tests when joining the fuselage halves.
If the length fits, then the end of the small actuating rod is flattened with a small file, so that it fits optically true to the original on the "Früh - Spät" lever.
(https://up.picr.de/44315316ln.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44315315ga.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44315317lp.jpg)
Here you can see the linkage installed in the Albatros D.V cockpit.
Eagle eyes among you will recognize the flattened end of the linkage.
At this point it is attached to the lever.
(https://up.picr.de/44315318nh.jpg)
Here the view from the outside of the cockpit on the "Früh - Spät" lever.
The end of the linkage rests against the lever, it is not yet glued.
A tiny drop of wood glue will do the job.
The wood glue allows exact positioning of the linkage on the lever before the glue joint hardens.
(https://up.picr.de/44315319bw.jpg)
Also a quick look at the right side of the cockpit.
(https://up.picr.de/44315320wu.jpg)
Of course, the linkage will be displayed in the same way on the both Albatros D.Va.
Servus
Bertl
Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
-
As written earlier, on the left side of the cockpit is the device board for the Bosch ignition switch and the "Früh - Spät" ignition advance lever.
(https://up.picr.de/44315319bw.jpg)
The linkage runs inside along the left side of the fuselage, past the ammo box and tank to a bellcrank, mounted on the left engine bar. (see arrow)
This is where the left magneto is actuated.
(https://up.picr.de/44321413km.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44321647od.jpg)
From this point, a linkage runs behind the engine to the right magneto (see red arrow)
(https://up.picr.de/44321646vf.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44321648nd.jpg)
so that both are actuated simultaneously (see orange arrow).
(https://up.picr.de/44321412hj.jpg)
The last four pictures from the engine compartment are from my Wingnut Wings Jasta 6 Albatros D.V, which I built a few years ago.
Believe me, that was a lot of detail work :o
Servus
Bertl
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But now let's continue with the control cabels.
In the Albatros D.V, almost everything is now in its proper place.
The aileron control cables are routed upward from their attachment (the round disk with the two cables) between the ammo box and the box for the empty ammo belts.
They will run in the upper wing to the ailerons.
(https://up.picr.de/44315323fq.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44315325hh.jpg)
This is very easy to build and display on the Albatros D.V model.
With the Albatros D.Va it becomes more difficult.
Servus
Bertl
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Brilliant work, Bertl. Your details are in a league of their own. I have to give you credit for passing on such excellent knowledge of the aircraft and how to paint them - a great guide for those that build these models. I used a few of these as I put my latest together :)
Cheers,
Gary
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What Gary said. Fantastic, Bertl ! No longer distinguishable from the original. Outstanding performance!
Best regards
Jörg
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Now to the control cabels on the Albatros D.Va models.
I glued a small plastic rod behind the cockpit.
The control cables run to the plastic rod from the front of the control stick and the rudder bar.
(https://up.picr.de/44315330fk.jpg)
The rudder and elevator control cables (fishing line in this case) are all stretched, wrapped around the plastic rod and glued.
(https://up.picr.de/44315360ay.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Brilliant work, Bertl. Your details are in a league of their own. I have to give you credit for passing on such excellent knowledge of the aircraft and how to paint them - a great guide for those that build these models. I used a few of these as I put my latest together :)
Cheers,
Gary
What Gary said. Fantastic, Bertl ! No longer distinguishable from the original. Outstanding performance!
Best regards
Jörg
Thank you very much, Gary and Jörg.
I think that is exactly what this forum is all about, everyone sharing their knowledge and experience with everyone else from this forum.
The optimal win-win situation.
I have also learned a lot here - and every now and then cheekily stole an idea.
For example, your excellently implemented weathering on the Albatros cowling / fairing, Gary ;)
Servus
Bertl
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From the rudder and elevator now to the aileron control cabel.
Reminder:
On the Albatros D.Va, the aileron control runs over pulleys in the lower wing.
A little more difficult to show it on the model than on the D.V.
However, one must always consider whether it is worthwhile to depict this, because you will not really see the control cabel in the cockpit, later, when everything is assembled.
To lead the control cables to the lower wing, I drilled a hole in the fuselage on the left and right side of the lower wing.
The hole is below the pulleys - exactly as in the original.
(https://up.picr.de/44285697vb.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44321901la.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44321903kj.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44315329mh.jpg)
The control cables (which are glued to the pulleys) are now threaded through these holes from the inside before gluing the fuselage halves together.
Remember, they must also be threaded through the lower boom arm of the control stick (yellow arrow).
(https://up.picr.de/44279513ob.jpg)
Here in this picture (for clarification) without control stick
(https://up.picr.de/44315331uh.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Now with control stick.
The two pulley cables were led diagonally left and right through the holes from the fuselage.
On the outside, the cables are temporarily taped to the fuselage with tamiya tape.
(https://up.picr.de/44315347kj.jpg)
Now two pieces of cable are pushed through one side of the fuselage from the outside.
On one side, these cables can be glued in the hole (top side of the hole).
Now tighten the two short cables and glue them in the hole (bottom side) on the other side.
The protruding cable ends are cut off directly at the glued spot.
On these pictures one of the two short cables is still missing,
Difficult for me to explain - I hope the pictures help to understand my sentences.
(https://up.picr.de/44315350et.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44316705mw.jpg)
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A view from above, in front of the ammo box down to the aileron cables.
(https://up.picr.de/44316706ay.jpg)
Also again the view from the outside on the control cabels.
As already written, one cable is still missing (I apparently broke off in the middle of the work).
(https://up.picr.de/44316702fw.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44316701dh.jpg)
That's it for today - thanks and see you soon.
Servus
Bertl
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:o :o I'm dumbstruck! It looks just like the TVAL one!
-
Great stuff as always.
How do you find the time to progress things so quickly...?
Cheers,
BC
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Some very nice updates and explanations, Bertl, thank you for sharing. I didn't know how the spark advance lever worked or even where it connected to, but thanks to you, now I do! Learning how the prototype and its mechanisms functioned is always a big part of my interest in modelling. I just like to know the "how" and the "why" behind the components. Also, your flight control rigging is very useful to me, as I am having to plan ahead to add this to my own build. The clarification certainly helps but am still a bit unclear of some of the cables and pulleys and how they eventually are routed out to the ailerons. I will have more reference books on the Albatros soon, one of them the Smithsonian book, so hopefully that can help with the clarification. I look forward to your future updates, they are always a pleasure to read through.
Chad
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@Luftace
Thank you very much for your kind comment, Chad.
The Smithsonian book is an excellent source, good decision of you to order this book.
Be careful though, the gluing of the pages of the book at the back is of very poor quality.
When you turn the pages or open the book wide, it almost falls apart.
I had to have my book re-glued at the spine of the book cover.
@Brad Cancian
Thank you very much for your kind comment, Brad.
No, I'm not quite that fast with the Albatrosses.
The pictures which I post here are partly more than a year ago.
But slowly we are approaching the current time, then the further construction of the models and the images will certainly take longer time.
@KiwiZac
Thank you very much for your kind comment, Zac.
I would really love to see the TVAL albatross and the complete collection in the original with my own eyes.
Unfortunately New Zealand is not exactly "just around the corner" from me.
Servus
Bertl
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A word about the Albatros D.V.
The first series (unfortunately I don't know up to which serial number) had a longitudinal planking of the lower nose sequence.
In the later lots, the planking was transverse.
Wingnut Wings decided to use the later construction batches for the model.
In my case, the Wn 1187/17 D.V. of the Jasta 10 is an early version, so the planking had to be changed accordingly - no big problem, the planking is changed relatively quickly.
The transverse joints are filled with hot-drawn plastic sprue, sanded and then, now the length, re-engraved.
(https://up.picr.de/44322998lc.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44323000hr.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44323001nc.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44323003ap.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44323002fs.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44322999sh.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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The next step is to display the nail heads.
In a data file, or Smithsonian or whatever - I don't know exactly anymore, I read that the nail distances were pretty much exactly 30mm apart.
So a rivet wheel with 1mm spacing is suitable for this.
The nails are pressed in relatively hard, but afterwards the fuselage is lightly sanded down again so that the fuselage is smooth.
(https://up.picr.de/44323008mv.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44323009ul.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44323010gb.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44323007cb.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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A few more little things which are to be considered.
The fuselage of the Albatros is covered with very thin plywood.
All components mounted on the inside of the fuselage were fastened with screws.
Unfortunately wingnut did not show the corresponding screw heads on the outside of the fuselage.
These are shown with resin rivets.
In order to insert the rivets, the outside of the fuselage must be drilled at the appropriate point - DO NOT drill through!
Later, when the fuselage is painted, the resin rivets (the screw heads) are inserted here.
(https://up.picr.de/44329611gt.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44329609tj.jpg)
The vent slots on the fuselage should be deepened a bit.
This works wonderfully with a sharp scalpel blade.
This trick has shown me a good modeling colleague (thanks Michi at this point).
A small step towards more realism.
(https://up.picr.de/44329607kc.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44329606so.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44329608ng.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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You remember the drain line from the fuel distribution equipment inside the Albatros?
(https://up.picr.de/44329614av.jpg)
With a 0.3mm drill, a hole is drilled on the outside at an angle to the top.
Do NOT drill through.
After fuselage painting, the tube leading to the outside is inserted into this hole.
A tube of approx. 1.5mm length is sufficient.
Thus the overflow line runs optically from the inside to the outside of the fuselage.
(https://up.picr.de/44329617og.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44329618iw.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44329616mo.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Also the cladding of the axle must be revised.
The parting line is missing (the wooden fairing including the upper and lower parts was in four parts) and also the nail heads are missing.
The parting line of the undercarriage fairing may be shown a little stronger to show that it is actually made in two (four) parts.
Painted first with Gunze "Radome",
(https://up.picr.de/44323012wx.jpg)
and some shading with Tamiya "Smoke" and highlights with heavily diluted yellow and white.
(https://up.picr.de/44323013qi.jpg)
Then the wood grain is applied with a small sponge.
(https://up.picr.de/44323016vf.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44323017uu.jpg)
Now the oil paint is removed piece by piece with a flat brush.
Continue until the wood grain is satisfactory.
Each panell is treated separately.
(https://up.picr.de/44323015jn.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44323038jl.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Once the oil paint (the wood grain) has dried, the panells can be sealed with clear varnish, possibly mixed with some Tamiya "Clear-Orange".
The metal parts are painted afterwards with Gunze "RLM02"
(https://up.picr.de/44323039kc.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44323040yz.jpg)
Now the axle fairing is weathert.
I use dark brown oil paint here.
Let it soak in a little, strongly emphasize the nails and wipe off in the direction of flight.
(https://up.picr.de/44323042kh.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44323041pj.jpg)
This is what it looks like.
When the oil paint is dry, the complete axle fairing is sealed with clear lacquer.
Now the remaining metal parts on the axle can be painted with RLM02 (not yet shown in the picture).
(https://up.picr.de/44323037me.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44329776tr.jpg)
That's it for today - thanks and see you soon.
Servus
Bertl
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Masterclass!
Sandy
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I REALLY need to bookmark this thread, because every time I drop in there is another textbook technique of how to produce something 8)
Just brilliant
Paul
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@DaddyO
@macsporran
Thank you very much for your kind comments, Paul and Sandy ;)
Servus
Bertl
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Proper Albatros scourge here at the Forum! And what lovely work you are showing us!
/Fredrik
EDIT Not often one can write the exact same thing in three different threads at once. 😀
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:) , thumbs up !
Alexis
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@Alexis
Thank you very much, Alexis.
@FAf
Thank you very much Fredrik.
Yes, that's right, a lot of "future" Albatros are represented here.
Servus
Bertl
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Not very much for today, just a little something on the landing gear of the three Albatrosses.
The struts and landing gear parts are painted so far. Additional aging and dirt marks were applied.
The small eyelets for the landing gear rigging are also attached.
(https://up.picr.de/44352129zw.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44352128iz.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44352127hq.jpg)
The serial number decals on the struts were delicately fogged with very diluted RLM02 so that the lettering appears more subdued.
Here in the example the undercarriage of Sigman's D.Va.
(https://up.picr.de/44352126hs.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Here the undercarriage of the white/red "Komet" D.Va.
The wooden undercarriage fairing was repainted in red and chipped immediately afterwards with some warm water and a stiff-haired brush.
Oil traces were represented with Tamiya "Smoke".
All metal parts on the landing gear were painted with RLM02. Also the struts.
After that, the finer details like the safety wire, suspension and other small details were painted with a brush.
The struts were then airbrushed with matte white.
Further fine scratches and paint chips on the white painted struts were removed with fine steel wool.
But very carefully, so that only fine scratches are created and the RLM02 base color becomes visible under the white.
The wire eyelets for the landing gear rigging are also glued in place, I used 0.09mm silver wire here.
The wire was wound around a 0.1mm drill bit.
(https://up.picr.de/44352124lf.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44352135jx.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44352137so.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44352136tx.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44352134fs.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/44352125zk.jpg)
That's it again for today, more next weekend.
Servus
Bertl
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That's unbelievable Bertl.
-
Like all others, I continue to be amazed at the work you've done on these builds. The rivet marking on the fuselage and undercarriage fairing is exquisite, and the wood grain painting, weathering are fabulous. And my Smithsonian book have the pages falling out too (bought back in 1987) ;)
Cheers,
Gary
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Stunned
-
Ceterum censeo: This is still so amazing Bertl, like the first time I‘ve seen these pics on flugzeugforum.
Andreas
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More beautiful work, Bertl!
The Vintage Aviator Limited's pilot training season is coming up so I'll endeavour to get some video of these lovely machines in action to inspire you and the other Albatros builders.
-
:) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) 8) :o
Alexis
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As always, your attention to detail is phenomenal and never ceases to amaze. Excellent!
Chad
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I can Not even begin to say how Impressive everything you do is in your Modeling! I don't think Brilliant even comes close :o
RAGIII
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This old, dormant battlefield has also been revived - it continues.
The rows of nails have been inserted and the fuselage is masked.
Now clean the fuselage a little with alcohol and then the wood primer (Gunze Radome) can be applied to the fuselage.
(https://up.picr.de/49039980lz.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49039978fu.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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The phoenix arises! Looking forward to this.....
-
(https://media.tenor.com/R3cs3IMq08gAAAAM/praise-the-lord-break.gif)
;D ;D
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Hi Bertl
Fantastic work and craftsmanship!
I am new to the forum and have read through the whole post as this is exactly the kind of work (extreme attention to detail) that fascinates and motivates me! thanks for posting all the steps its very inspiring and motivating.
Will be following closely, keep up the great work and motivation!
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Yes! This will be exciting to watch the continuation of this project! ;D
-
Superb detail work
Sandy
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Hello everyone,
Thank you very much for your kind comments. :D
Yes, we are currently making some progress here (again), we'll see when the brakes are applied again. But hopefully not. ???
The fuselage of the Jasta10 Albatros D.V is currently primed with Gunze "Radome".
(https://up.picr.de/49046908js.jpg)
In the meantime - just out of curiosity and to test it - I have bought an etching stencil with which the wood grain can be reproduced.
I have never used such stencils before.
(https://up.picr.de/49046914cl.jpg)
To test how the wood grain looks painted with the stencil, I primed a landing gear axle of an Albatros D.V with Gunze "Radome" and then shaded it minimally with Tamiya "Desert Yellow".
The wood grain was then painted on thinly - also with "Desert Yellow".
A thin layer of "Burnt Siena" oil paint was applied over the painted wood grain using an approx. 3 mm wide brush.
This axle belongs to the black painted Albatros D.V D2263/17 Jasta 23b, Otto Kissenberth ..... yes, a fourth Albatros is being built ::)
Here is a comparison of the finished landing gear of the Jasta 10 D.V with the landing gear axle just mentioned.
Well, here the complete aging and the highlighting of the nail rows is still missing, but I think the pure difference wood grain only with oil paint to wood grain painted on and oil paint, is recognizable.
Jasta 23b Albatros D.V axle panel:
(https://up.picr.de/49046909lg.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49046910lt.jpg)
Jasta 10 Albatros D.V axle panel:
(https://up.picr.de/49046911vc.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49046912mx.jpg)
What do you think, which of the two axle panels looks better?
Please also consider the scale effect - too much of a good thing can also have a negative effect on the eye of the beholder.
Servus
Bertl
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To be honest Beryl I would be delighted with either if it was my Albie but between the two the second one looks more realistic to me (Jasta 10).
Alan
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Hi Bertl ! I also think that the handmade version without the stencil (Jasta 10) looks better. However, it would depend on a test to see how woodgrain would look with the template on the fuselage. Trial and error, Versuch macht klug.
It's great that you are continuing to work on the Albatros and that we can continue to marvel and enjoy it.
Greetings
Joerg
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Wonderful, Bertl.
But a fourth Albatros lengthens the time until you build the Halberstadt D. II. :-[
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Great progress again, Bertl.
As for my preferences for the wood grain, I consider your paint effort much much much more convincing than the effect of the PE stencil.
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To my eye, the second (Jasta 10) axle panel is the more beautiful, realistic and true to scale.
I also have PE templates from two manufacturers: two templates from Zoukei Mura 1/48 and the Artesinia Latina micro template. I have tried both and the problem is the too large scale wood grain.
They are completely unusable in 1/48 scale, but even in 1/32 scale the wood grain is huge. In 1/24 scale it's not bad, but the size of the wood grain is still not realistic.
The advantage of these PE templates is that you can imitate the wood grain effect much faster than with oil paint. The disadvantage, apart from the aforementioned oversize, is that it is easy to damage the PE fret when bending it over strongly curved surfaces (e.g. the fuselage of an Albatros) or when straightening it back. This makes it a very expensive tool.
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Jasta 10 one for me also. The templates are too obvious IMO. Painting allows you to achieve a more subtle and in scale effect IMO.
Lovely work on both though!
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@NigelR
@richard.kiss
@PrzemoL
@Jorgo
@Dirigible-Al
Hello, thank you very much for your feedback.
Basically you confirm my own opinion when I painted with the PE stencil.
In any case, I have come to the conclusion that I can do the wood grain with oil paint just like before - i.e. without the PE mask.
I think I could have saved myself the money.
But well, if I hadn't tried it I would probably still be thinking about whether or not.
@Borsos
Well, the Halberstadt is relatively far back in the series, Andreas.
I currently have a lot of models that have been started and are waiting to be finished.
See the construction reports started here in this and also in the German Flugzeugforum.
But, a little progress is being made everywhere.
Servus
Bertl
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The albatross fuselage was treated further.
The rows of nail heads were shaded very thinly with Tamiya "Desert Yellow".
Also individual panels and various sheet metal fittings.
(https://up.picr.de/49059092an.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49059090jw.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49059089yb.jpg)
I also thinly overpainted some areas with white and yellow.
(https://up.picr.de/49059087bx.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49059091yl.jpg)
The joints and edges of the plywood panels are not yet shaded - here I will also apply thin layers of Tamiya Smoke and a little off-white.
Possibly also with a little Clear Yellow and Clear Orange .... we'll see.
I'm currently playing around a bit with the shading.
Interesting in the last picture is the glue joint at the bottom of the fuselage.
This was filled over several times with Tamiya filler and sanded over with 1000 grit wet sandpaper as a final step.
Nevertheless, this seam is easily visible here.
It seems that the filler has shrunk slightly in the two years that the fuselage has been sitting in the display case.
(https://up.picr.de/49059088dv.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Excellent work on the nails. A pity about the filler, it probably won't show under the wood grain effect.
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@NigelR
Yes, I think (I hope!) there will be no glue seams under the wood grain.
Servus
Bertl
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This thread describes the build report of the three Wingnut Wings Albatrosses.
Two D.Va and one D.V.
Well, a Roden Albatros D.I is also ?running? alongside.
I started with this model sometime in the 1st quarter of 2009.
It went well for a while, but some mistakes had crept in - apart from windsock data files, there was hardly any usable image material on the Internet at that time regarding the D.I.
At some point I put this model away because I got my hands on the first wingnut kits.
Well, three or four years ago, I had done a few hand-finishes on the model in between, but I didn't really fancy this model.
Now, between the Christmas holidays, the wind seems to have changed - as I continued building the three D.V/D.Va, I suddenly started to enjoy working on the D.I again.
But, sorry for the short digression - let's stick to the model:
The fuselage of the Roden Albatros D.I got its plywood grain today.
Not papered, so no decals - everything is painted by hand.
Base color Mr. Hobby "Radome".
The rows of nails were shaded very thinly with Tamiya "Desert Yellow".
Light fogging of various panels with Tamiya "Desert Yellow" and "Flat-White".
Some panel lines, the vent fittings, positions of the maintenance covers (i.e. where they will be located later) and areas underneath the engine which will receive traces of oil later in the construction phase were thinly shaded with Tamiya "Smoke".
99% of the wood grain was done with oil paint "Siena natural".
It was important that each panel was painted separately with wood grain.
The grain should therefore not overlap onto a neighboring panel.
Less oil paint makes the panel appear slightly lighter, with a little more oil paint - only slightly more - the wood grain appears denser and richer and makes the panel appear slightly darker.
In addition, some Siena Burnt was mixed into the Siena Natural in various places to obtain different color nuances of the grain.
So much for the current status.
Now it's off to the dry dock with the fuselage for a week.
The engravings on the individual wooden panels are a little deeper and wider on the Roden model than on the Wingnut.
That's why more oil paint accumulates there.
I suspect that you can save yourself a final wash with oil paint - although in real life the joints between the wooden panels on the Albatros are hardly visible.
Depending on the angle (e.g. from front to back), you often can't see these joints at all, as the wooden panels are mounted overlapping from front to back.
If you look from back to front, however, you can see the end edges of the panels on top - but ultimately they aren't joints.
(https://up.picr.de/49126617qn.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49126624km.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49126634mz.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49126633zo.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49126626ev.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49126631du.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Hello Bertl!
The handmade woodgrain looks excellent, I also think that most decals that imitate wood grain look fake.
Did you apply a coat of clear gloss varnish before applying the oil paint or did you paint directly onto the Randome?
The wooden hull looks much lighter in the last photos than in the photo where the Schmincke tubes can be seen. Did you spray clear orange over it or is that just due to the lighting?
Anyway, another convincing job, and I'm already looking forward to the next update,
Greetings from HH
Joerg
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I agree, IMO oils are best for recreating woodgrain and you did a fantastic job here. This is looking really good.
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@Jorgo
@NigelR
thank you very much for your kind comments.
Joerg:
No, I didn't apply any clear coat or sealer before applying the wood grain - the oil paints directly onto the radome primer.
Not even in the first picture with the oil paint tubes.
The difference between the first picture and the other pictures is solely due to the daylight.
The first picture was taken yesterday evening under the lamplight directly after the wood grain work was done.
The other pictures were taken today in daylight.
With a wonderful sunlight behind my back ..... ;)
Nigel:
Yes, I also think that there is no better way to depict wood grain than with oil paints.
Decals are of course also nice - you can achieve wonderful effects with them, but "wallpapering" is just not so my thing.
If at all possible, I paint by hand.
It's enough that the lozenge on some German planes has to be done with decals.
Servus
Bertl
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The wood grain looks great, I also like the subtle shading. Masterful. Will you add some clear yellow or orange? Or will you leave the wood as it is?
This is truly an epic build report.
Andreas
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The wood grain looks great, I also like the subtle shading. Masterful. Will you add some clear yellow or orange? Or will you leave the wood as it is?
This is truly an epic build report.
Andreas
@Borsos
Thank you very much, Andreas.
....to be honest, I'm not quite sure yet whether I'm going to seal with clear yellow or clear orange.
Of course I will seal, but probably only with semi-gloss for the time being.
Possibly also a one-third mix with clear yellow, clear orange and semi-gloss.
In the past, I have also lightly fogged individual panels with ?Smoke? in various places on one of my D.Vs.
This also produced a beautiful and interesting effect.
I think it will become clear during the sealing process which ?clear? combination and which panels.
I'll let myself be surprised. 8)
Servus
Bertl
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The fuselage of the Jasta 10 Albatros D.V has also received its wood grain in the meantime.
The technique used is pretty much the same as for the fuselage of the Roden Albatros D.I.
In contrast to the D.I, however, I have dispensed with the pre-shading of individual maintenance hatches, or panel lines, with Tamiya ?Smoke?.
This D.V should ultimately look a little less ?used? than the D.I.
A good side effect of the oil paint is that the glue seam on the underside of the fuselage, which has become slightly visible again over the years despite clean filling and sanding, has completely disappeared due to the wood grain.
The second picture clearly shows the panels mounted lengthwise from the underside of the nose to the undercarriage.
A typical feature of the first D.V series.
According to surviving original photos, Albatros switched from longitudinal to transverse panels between D.2065/17 and D.2078/17.
It is not possible to be more precise on the basis of the (currently) available photographic material.
Unfortunately, I do not have any original construction descriptions from Albatros that go into more detail here.
WingnutWings did not include the very early D.V series in the kit.
(https://up.picr.de/49136726br.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49136724kl.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49136723jl.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49136725oy.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49136722ng.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49136727ul.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Dear Bertl!
Your wood grain painting is fabulously beautiful. Your model (and the others) is inspiring.
This sentence caught my attention as I am researching this very topic:
Albatross switched from longitudinal to transverse panels between D.2065/17 and D.2078/17.
I am very interested in which photos you based this conclusion on? In which publication did these photos appear?
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Albatross switched from longitudinal to transverse panels between D.2065/17 and D.2078/17.
I am very interested in which photos you based this conclusion on? In which publication did these photos appear?
[/quote]
Dear Richard,
D.2065/17
http://www.wingnutwings.com/ww/v98C7274C/www/products/model_kitsets/32701/archive_photos/Albatros%20D.V%202065~17%20Jasta%205%20(Greg%20Van%20Wyngarden)%20(2).jpg
D.2078/17
http://www.wingnutwings.com/ww/v98C7274C/www/products/model_kitsets/32009/archive_photos/Detail-nose,%20Albatros%20D.V%20D.2078~17.jpg
Spyros
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More beautiful wood grain work. As I suspected, it did hide that ghost seam very effectively. This is looking stunning.
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You've done very well with the wood grain in the unused look, Bertl. But what impresses me even more is the precision of the rows of nails on the fuselage, respect !
I'm already looking forward to your next update
Cheers
Joerg
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D.2065/17
http://www.wingnutwings.com/ww/v98C7274C/www/products/model_kitsets/32701/archive_photos/Albatros%20D.V%202065~17%20Jasta%205%20(Greg%20Van%20Wyngarden)%20(2).jpg
D.2078/17
http://www.wingnutwings.com/ww/v98C7274C/www/products/model_kitsets/32009/archive_photos/Detail-nose,%20Albatros%20D.V%20D.2078~17.jpg
Thank you!
You have an eagle eye!
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I continue to pick up wonderful inspiration and motivation from your builds, Bertl, Great stuff! Marc
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The wood grain looks great, I also like the subtle shading. Masterful. Will you add some clear yellow or orange? Or will you leave the wood as it is?
This is truly an epic build report.
Andreas
@Borsos
Thank you very much, Andreas.
....to be honest, I'm not quite sure yet whether I'm going to seal with clear yellow or clear orange.
Of course I will seal, but probably only with semi-gloss for the time being.
Possibly also a one-third mix with clear yellow, clear orange and semi-gloss.
In the past, I have also lightly fogged individual panels with ?Smoke? in various places on one of my D.Vs.
This also produced a beautiful and interesting effect.
I think it will become clear during the sealing process which ?clear? combination and which panels.
I'll let myself be surprised. 8)
Servus
Bertl
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Sounds reasonable. Thank you. It will definitely Look great!
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Lovely work as always! Your re-worked forward panel lines look perfect!
RAGIII
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Beautiful work.
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Hello everyone,
Thank you all very much for your kind comments.
There's not much to show today, although the oil paint on the wood grain of the D.V fuselage is almost completely dry, I'm still leaving the model lying around.
The fuselage of the D.I, on the other hand, is already undergoing further work - I have already sealed it twice with semi-gloss.
But I'll take some pictures of that tomorrow in daylight.
In the meantime, however, I have also been working a little on the fourth Wingnut Albatros.
When completed, this model will represent Otto Kissenberth's D.2263/17, Jasta 23b.
While searching through original photos of this machine, I got the impression that the exhaust - explicitly at the outlet - was shaped somewhat differently than the exhaust in the Wingnut kit. The exhaust of the D.2263/17 appears to be slightly narrower, slightly more angular at the outlet and also slightly longer. Wingnut shapes the exhaust more like a trumpet at the end.
Anyway, maybe the pictures are deceptive, but I have modified the kit exhaust.
I glued a few millimeters of waste plastic to it to make it slightly longer and then shaped the exhaust a little narrower. The exhaust was also made a little more angular. Then a thin piece of hot-drawn plastic was used as a rim around the outlet. The opening was then machined to a very thin wall using a milling cutter and small files.
The color is the same as the other exhausts - see post #5 to 7.
Here is the picture of Otto Kissenberth's D.V:
(https://up.picr.de/49166389uc.jpg)
And here is the result of the exhaust for the model after processing and painting.
(https://up.picr.de/49166390by.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49166385mq.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49166387wk.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49166386ao.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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For comparison, the slightly shorter and trumpet-shaped kit exhaust:
(https://up.picr.de/49166391fe.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49166393pw.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49166886yl.jpg)
That's it again for today.
Servus
Bertl
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Amazing attention to detail, great research and exquisite workmanship. Well done!
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Another very realistic look for the exhaust. I take my hat off to you.
Greetings
Joerg
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Your usual Fastidious detail work! Perfect finish on the exhaust!!
RAGIII
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That's a pretty amazing bit of work on the exhausts.
Alan.
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Thank you very much, Alan, Rick, Joerg and Nigel
Servus
Bertl
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A little bit of detail work:
When I was working on the fuselage of the D.I at the time, I sanded off many of the fittings and screws molded onto the surface of the fuselage.
The reason was that I wanted to supplement some of the fittings with the etched parts set from Eduard available at the time, as the ones shown on the model were washed out or distorted - and some of the screw fittings were molded in the wrong positions.
Well, we'll come to the fittings another time - for now, let's look at the screw fittings.
Here in this original picture of a D.I circled in red:
(https://up.picr.de/49175724so.jpeg)
I drilled holes in the plastic with a 0.4mm drill bit (a little over a millimeter deep) at the positions that seemed right to me.
But don't drill through, as you would see that if you looked into the cockpit.
(https://up.picr.de/49175725bk.jpg)
I have used matching MasterClub rivets to represent the screw heads.
(https://up.picr.de/49175726zj.jpg)
....... the 2mm long rivets had to be shortened to a length of less than 1mm.
(https://up.picr.de/49175727bx.jpg)
These were then placed on the blind holes.
(https://up.picr.de/49175728pm.jpg)
and press them in.
(https://up.picr.de/49175729hk.jpg)
Due to the fact that the rivet shank is 0.4mm thick (the heads 0.5mm), they hold relatively well in the holes.
Finally, apply a thin layer of clear varnish over the heads so that they stick to the fuselage.
Servus
Bertl
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The tailskid has now found its place on the fuselage - after almost 16 years.
In fact, the tailskid was already painted in spring 2009, but after I painted the metal fittings in a dark metal tone (I didn't know any better at the time), they now had to be repainted in the typical Albatros green.
(https://up.picr.de/49175885pn.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49175886hg.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49175887gs.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Your models set the bar...
Deine Modelle definieren die Messlatte
Best Regards
Rafael
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2nd that !
Joerg
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Hello Rafael, Hello Joerg
Thank you very much for the flowers, that's very kind of you. :D
Hallo Rafael, Hallo Joerg
vielen Dank fuer die Blumen, dass ist sehr nett von euch. ;)
Servus
Bertl
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I only assembled the D.I. as a "just for fun" to see if and how everything fits together visually when the model is finished.
I think the main direction is right, this will be a nice model of an early Albatros for the display case.
(https://up.picr.de/49176090yj.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49176093ig.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49176091fe.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49176092rp.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49176094jg.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Beautiful work as always!
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Beautiful work Bertl. Your attention to detail is incredibly impressive, as is your workmanship. The DI is looking really good. This will be very helpful when I build my DII.
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Impressive detail and beautiful painting, Nothing new there ;D The wing camo and wood fuselage really look superb together! I found the Roden D1 wing to be the Easiest attachment of an upper wing on any of their kits I have ever built, yours will look great when done for real. Mine just doesn't quite look as nice as yours 8)
RAGIII
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@uncletony
Many thanks Bo
The old Albatros is really fun to assemble at the moment.
I hope that this will continue until the final assembly.
@NigelR
Thank you Nigel.
As I said, I started the model in spring 2009 - a few small mistakes crept in at the time due to ignorance and usually can't be repaired afterwards.
My point is that there is a lot more detail work to be done on the Roden kit than what this build report shows, because the kit is definitely not bad.
The Roden/Encore Albatros D.II is still on my list - but that will take some time.
@RAGIII
Many thanks Rick.
I was pleasantly surprised at how well the camouflage colors of the wings harmonize with the wooden fuselage.
I hope you are right about the ?easiest wing assembly?, because I have been missing the four outer wing struts of this D.I (together with an AVIS Fokker E.V/D.VIII under construction) since moving house a few years ago.
I will therefore probably have to rebuild the struts. Maybe from brass tubes with the strut tool from Flugzeugwerke (Bo).
Servus
Bertl
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A few more little things about the Roden Albatros D.I
BtW.
I have just visited the thread of Williams 1/144 Stahltaube - how can I write about "little things" on a 1/32 model?
The Albatros is ridiculously large compared to his little gem.
Well, OK, - more "things" on the D.I.
The "fasteners" on the engine cowling.
On the Roden model they are almost always in the wrong place compared to the original pictures.
So sand them down on the model and fill them.
New fasteners are attached in the correct position.
I use 0.3 mm Evergreen plastic rods for this.
Drill 0.3mm holes and insert 1mm long 0.3mm Evergreen rods into the holes. T
hese have about 0.5mm protrusion over the cowling.
Use flat tweezers to flatten the ends.
Then carefully file with fine sandpaper to a suitable length and semi-circular contour
(https://up.picr.de/49178656sq.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49178654qz.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49178655jg.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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:o Those look pretty small to me......
Lovely work.
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The four screws on the rocker arm housings have also been removed.
The 160hp Mercedes D.III engine has only 2 screw connections per rocker cover - diagonally offset, so be careful to use the correct position on the model.
The 180hp Mercedes D.IIIa engine has four (2 different!) screws per cover, but the rocker arms are located IN FRONT of the housings as seen in the direction of flight.
Remove the four screws from the model - they are wrong anyway - and drill two small holes diagonally (make sure they are in the correct position).
Resin screws from MasterClub are inserted into these holes.
That's it. Now it also looks like a D.III engine.
(https://up.picr.de/49178652nk.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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:o Those look pretty small to me......
Lovely work.
;D
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A further (small 8) ) problem concerns the large one-piece canban strut on the D.I model.
On the original, this is covered with 2 relatively large aluminum plates on the upper part of the fuselage.
Due to its ?V? shape, there is no other way - otherwise two large openings would remain.
On the model, the strut is placed bluntly on the covers - it works, but doesn't look very convincing.
In addition, the two sheet metal covers are modeled rather crudely.
Roden also distributes far too many screws here.
However, either accept or change.
We change.
The two modeled covers are removed and two new covers are added.
I used 0.1 mm thick Evergreensheet for this.
Well, it took me two or three attempts before I was satisfied with the result.
In addition, the canban strut on the right-hand side was extended slightly - it is still glued on ?bluntly?, but the abrupt end that you would see is now visually more coherent because it disappears into the fuselage.
Difficult sentence structure, I hope the ?translator? can make a comprehensible sentence out of it.
(https://up.picr.de/49178669xj.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49178648mv.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49178647kw.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49178651wl.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49178649qs.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49178650tv.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Now to the vents on the kit.
These were scraped open at the rear with a sharp and very pointed scalpel blade.
A good and really very simple trick to give the part significantly more depth, it simply looks more realistic on the model.
I got this tip from the German Flugzeug forum - Michi, a very good model builder and colleague had this idea.
(https://up.picr.de/49178660ac.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49178661lm.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49178659yw.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49178657dj.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Under the air vents is quickly and easily painted with black oil paint.
Just apply adhesive tape, paint and you're done.
If something goes wrong when painting, the oil paint can be removed at any time with a paper towel or cotton stick.
(https://up.picr.de/49178658ki.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49178662aj.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49178663ow.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49178664fy.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49178667qw.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Post #217 and #218 was the cheapest way to create somewhat realistic vents.
However, it is far more realistic to create these vents WITH the peculiar opening on the model.
I started with this here on the Kissenberth Albatros D.V.
(https://up.picr.de/49179039jd.jpg)
However, that is a bit more expensive and time-consuming, the vents on the model have to be removed (file, milling cutter, sandpaper, whatever), the openings on the model have to be opened with a drill and file and the material from the fuselage has to be milled a bit thinner from the back if possible.
(https://up.picr.de/49179040fo.jpg)
The removed vents now have to be recreated using new parts.
In my opinion, a really good place for this is the 3D printed parts from Bo Monroe, or "Flugzeugwerke".
(https://up.picr.de/49179038jo.jpg)
He is represented here in the forum.
Visit his website... great stuff there.
(I have no share in his company, the parts or the profits!)
I just want to show the other way, the slightly more expensive one.
However, these little parts help to make the model even more realistic.
...... and you save yourself the trouble of painting the back of the vents.
Here on the model, the vents are just resting on top, nothing is fixed yet, etc.
(https://up.picr.de/49179041kf.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49179043ti.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49179042na.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Love the progress on these and I'm also a great believer in the old scrape out the vents ruse which, as you say, adds so much realism (The woodgrain is fabulous by the way)
Paul
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Wow those vents look great!
Will have a look into the Flugzeugwerke website, to see if there's interesting items for my present end future works
BTW Bertl I'm impressed by the perfect work you made in replacing the louvers!
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Thanks so much for posting all these step by step photos Bertl, they are really helpful.
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I don't have a Jaw Dropping Emoji on My computer so I will just say WOW!
RAGIII
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That was ingenious how you buried the cabane struts in the fuselage rather than glue them on top of it.
Alan.
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Thanks for the endorsement -- so many of my WWI designs are directly attributable to inspiration from you, Bertl.
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Thank you very much, Paul, andonio, Nigel, Rick and Alan.
I didn't know that, thanks to you, Bo.
Servus
Bertl
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Not much news about the Albatros D.I at the moment - just a few little things.
The cockpit edge is now painted, this was done with a brush - quite a tricky job to paint an exact separation to the fuselage.
I have not succeeded 100%, as I can now see in the pictures.
In the original, a sausage made of fabric/canvas filled with horsehair was glued/sewn on around the edge or rim of the cockpit and covered with thin leather.
On the model, the thin edge in the front area was thickened a little with Magic Sculpt - on some pictures in data files and books you can see that the edge on the model is too thin.
The edge/rim is painted with Tamiya XF-52 "Flat-Earth", then very slightly dabbed with Mission Models MMP-082 WWII Elfenbein (beige) paint in the front and side areas and then dabbed over everything with Mr. Weathering Color WC03 "Stain Brown" and - finally - the darker WC02 "Ground Brown".
(https://up.picr.de/49185172tm.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49185173df.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49185174bd.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49185171wf.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
Translated with DeepL.com (free version)
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After the edge of the cockpit I took a look at the rudder of the Albatros D.I.
I have had a previously unused WW1 "Clear Doped Linen" color set from AK Interactive in my drawer for many years.
I used the lightest of the colors, AK 2293 "Bleached Linen".
I primed the rudder with it in several thin layers. I thinned the paint with the appropriate AK thinner.
(https://up.picr.de/49185175sl.jpg)
After the paint had dried, I started to draw the tube structure under the fabric with a black pencil.
The outer contour was no problem at all, not even the top two thin tubes.
The problem only started when I compared the drawings in the Albatros Windsock Datafile #100 ......
(https://up.picr.de/49185178fa.jpg)
...... with the excellent profile pictures in Ronny Bar's book "German Fighters of the Great War Vol I".
(https://up.picr.de/49185179fw.jpg)
Datafile and Ronny Bar are not in agreement here.
The lower tube from the hinge pivot point downwards to the outside or upwards to the outside?
Even in the www and good books (data files etc) I could not find a crystal clear answer.
Unfortunately I could not find any meaningful sketches or drawings of an Albatros D.I or D.II rudder in the www.
Well, fortunately I have a large number of very good pictures of the Oeffag D.III by Koloman Mayrhofer.
It was in the hangar in Oberschleissheim in December 2011 for the final certification formalities because its maiden flight was to take place there in spring 2012.
Coincidentally, I visited the museum during this period.
To cut a long story short, I used the rudder of this Oeffag D.III as a template for the D.I rudder.
(https://up.picr.de/49185169xd.jpg)
Now I was able to reproduce the correct course of the tube structure quite easily and quickly and transfer it to the D.I rudder.
(https://up.picr.de/49185176wo.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49185177ww.jpg)
I then sprayed the rudder with thinned "Bleached Linen" paint.
At least that was the plan.
At first this was not as easy as I had hoped. Either this paint "dried in the nozzle" almost before spraying, or it "spit" out of the nozzle.
I had to thin the paint really heavily - and even then there were small problems.
(https://up.picr.de/49185170td.jpg)
I also have to say that I'm a bit at war with these AK paints (Vallejo too).
I'm probably just a bit too stupid for that :-\
My preferred choice of paint is and remains the paints from Tamiya and/or Gunze/Mr. Hobby ::)
Servus
Bertl
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I took some more notes down in my Albatros notebook. :)
Interesting detail, especially on the cockpit padding.
And yes, I also never put these <<real>> acrylics into my airbrush. I like them for paint brushing, but I prefer alcohol thinned paints for spraying.
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Lovely work Bertl. The cockpit looks great, IMO brush painting is the only way to go and I think you did a good job. I really like your finish on the rudder, this is much more realistic than airbrushing stripes over the top of the paint IMO. I tried a similar approach on my Pfalz DIIIa and was happy with the result.
I really like some of the AK WWI colours but I too find the paint challenging to work with. I much prefer the new Mig ATOM paints (although they don't have dedicated WWI colours).
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@Borsos
Unfortunately, there is very little (good) original footage of the Albatros D.I. available.
The aircraft was also in service for too short a time, as it was already converted to the D.II during production.
However, the drawings in the data file or in Flight Magazine are helpful.
There is much more good reference material available for the D.II.
But be careful, there are also serious differences in detail between the D.I and the D.II which are only recognizable at second or third glance.
But who am I telling, Andreas, I'm sure you're well versed in the subject yourself.
@NigelR
I've also worked with the ATOM paints, Nigel - but as you write, there are quite good paints from AK for WK1 and unfortunately not yet for ATOM.
There is now a new generation of these paints from AK that are a little easier to spray - but still tricky.
The big advantage is that you can also apply them with a brush - as Andreas (@Borsos) has already pointed out.
And yes, painted-on shading or stripes don't usually look very realistic - they somehow look ... artificial (Is that the right word for it?)
Like a little too much make-up on pretty girls' faces.
Servus
Bertl
Translated with DeepL.com (free version)
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I'm slowly starting to mask the white squares for the Eisernen Kreuze.
In this case, I will completely dispense with the Roden decals.
I will only use the serial numbers.
I will not use any of the markings that the kit suggests, fortunately I have received some remaining serial numbers of his D.I kits from a fellow model builder and can therefore piece together a suitable serial number.
I would like to represent the D.I ("Red Four") with the serial number 441/16 from Carl Holler, Jasta 6.
See Ronny Bar Book ?German Fighters of the Great war? Vol.1 page 111
But, one step back - before masking, briefly tape the painted rudder to the model to see how it looks.
It works, I am reasonably satisfied.
(https://up.picr.de/49189608iq.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49189610ob.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49189609iv.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49185179fw.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Stunning results from your talented hands!
RAGIII
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Love it. Your handling of the wood and nails is stunning.
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Thank you very much, Rick and Alan. ;D
Servus
Bertl
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The missing screw connection of the elevator fin on the kit was imitated with a resin screw from MasterClub.
The bent sheet metal fitting on the fin was simply painted with AK Interactive ?German Primer?.
(https://up.picr.de/49201250nb.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49201251sh.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49201249nz.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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The left side of the fuselage and also the rudder have received their Iron Cross.
The "red four" is also already attached to the model. All markings have been masked and painted with an airbrush.
However, a few small repairs to the insignia will have to be done at a later date.
(https://up.picr.de/49201245va.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49201246qx.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Very nicely done! The markings and especially the ?4? looks spot on!
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Sweet.....
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More amazing work. I love that detail on the fin!
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90% of your Vallejo airbrush problems will be solved by adding a few more drops of "Airbrush Flow Improver".
I switched to Vallejo a few years ago and have had no problems. I'm about to try the set of WW1 german colors by AK for the first time.
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90% of your Vallejo airbrush problems will be solved by adding a few more drops of "Airbrush Flow Improver".
I switched to Vallejo a few years ago and have had no problems. I'm about to try the set of WW1 german colors by AK for the first time.
Thanks for the tip Allan.
I don't think the AK colors are bad per se.
A big advantage is of course that there are explicit sets with the matching colors.
I ordered AK Interactiv "Airbrush Flow Improver" today and will test the stuff with the airbrush when I get it.
Servus
Bertl
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More amazing work. I love that detail on the fin!
Thank you very much Nigel.
However, I have changed the screw connection of the elevator fin on the model again.
I found an original picture which shows this detail more clearly, so my original screw connection no longer had a chance.
Here is the "old" version:
(https://up.picr.de/49201249nz.jpg)
Here is an original:
(https://up.picr.de/49207598lu.jpg)
...... and the "new" version on the model.
I used 0.5mm aluminum tubes, drilled them to 0.4mm on the inside and inserted a 0.4mm resin screw into the aluminum tube. then the tube including the screw was fixed to the model and painted.
(https://up.picr.de/49207604rc.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49207608df.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49207606zm.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49207607qe.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Wonderful detail!
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This is just a joy to watch! I would have been happy with the first version myself..... ;)
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Wow! Pure eye candy for sure. A joy to see these progressing so well.
All the best,
Tim
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This is so much fun to watch.
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@Allan, Tim, Nigel and Radarman, thank you for your kind comments ;D
When I started building the Albatros at the time, I sanded off all the fittings and screw heads on the Fuselage in my zeal.
So I also sanded down the step flap with the horseshoe-shaped frame on the outside.
I wanted to reproduce these details with an etched parts set ..... which of course is no longer commercially available.
I still had the frame fitting on the outside as an etched part, but not (any more) the ribbed flap itself.
Here I had to use a thin plastic plate made of 0.13 Evergreen material.
The only problem was - how do I make the fluting on the flap?
The solution was quite simple - if you have the right pliers in the drawer.
The fluting of the cheeks was a perfect match for embossing the small flap.
Cutting it to the right size and contour with scissors was then child's play.
The frame on the outside had to be adjusted slightly to the Albatros fuselage contour and that was it.
Nothing is glued in the pictures, the flap itself is still unpainted.
(https://up.picr.de/49212186ag.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49212187rr.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49212189rh.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49212190ue.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49212193hf.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49212192rk.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
Translated with DeepL.com (free version)
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What a brilliant idea!! :D
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What a brilliant idea!! :D
Thanks Rafael ....... but I have to admit, it took me a while to come up with this idea ;D
Danke Rafael ....... ich muss aber gestehen, es hat etwas gedauert bis ich auf diese Idee kam.
The step flap is now installed on the model - including some "weathering" etc., ... .
(https://up.picr.de/49212986jh.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49212983ma.jpg)
Also done - the Eisernen Kreuze and the "rote vier" are now painted all around.
(https://up.picr.de/49212984gy.jpg)
The two maintenance hatches with access to the elevator control cables have also been attached.
Here with "special glue" from AMMO.
Save your money, it's nothing more than white wood glue.
(https://up.picr.de/49213000sf.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49212999ba.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Absolutely brilliant, Bertl ! Besser gehts nicht
Greetings
Joerg
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More fabulous work Bertl, this is looking really good.
Here with "special glue" from AMMO.
Save your money, it's nothing more than white wood glue.
Hehe, there are so many gimmicks these days that we modellers can buy! Often they do nothing that other tools do already.....
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Fabulous little extras, Bertl
Wonderful stuff
Sandy
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Thank you Sandy,Nigel and Joerg!
Servus
Bertl
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The Cowling is held in position at the front of the nose of the Albatros D.I with spring-loaded fasteners.
These are represented on the model with 0.3 mm thin plastic rod.
The plastic rod is 2.5mm long and slightly flattened at each end using pliers with smooth cheeks.
(https://up.picr.de/49212988pi.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49212994nd.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49212995ff.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49212993gh.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49212997ba.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Bertl, the attention you pay to details is always worth a front row seat!
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The Cowling is held in position at the front of the nose of the Albatros D.I with spring-loaded fasteners.
These are represented on the model with 0.3 mm thin plastic rod.
The plastic rod is 2.5mm long and slightly flattened at each end using pliers with smooth cheeks.
(https://up.picr.de/49212988pi.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49212994nd.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49212995ff.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49212993gh.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49212997ba.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
Hallo Bertl
If you want to make tiny springs use a very thin wound guitar string and pull the core wire out. Cheap and easy.
Mfg. Andrew
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Lovely work. It's those details that really elevate your work to another level.
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Just masterfull work Bertl ;D
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The Cowling is held in position at the front of the nose of the Albatros D.I with spring-loaded fasteners.
These are represented on the model with 0.3 mm thin plastic rod.
The plastic rod is 2.5mm long and slightly flattened at each end using pliers with smooth cheeks.
(https://up.picr.de/49212988pi.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49212994nd.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49212995ff.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49212993gh.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49212997ba.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
Hallo Bertl
If you want to make tiny springs use a very thin wound guitar string and pull the core wire out. Cheap and easy.
Mfg. Andrew
Thanks for the tip, Andrew
I'll try that - I've just ordered thin E-string.
I used to wind springs from thin copper wire, but to be honest, when the model is finished in the display case, you usually don't see any of the effort and work.
Here ?self-wound? on the Wingnut Albatros D.V many many years ago:
(https://up.picr.de/49257005ke.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49257006jc.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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The etched sheet metal fittings are painted, I had to make some fittings myself because I either lost them or used them elsewhere during the long time the model was lying around.
Anyway - with 0,10mm Evergreen plastic it works quite well.
(https://up.picr.de/49257047vh.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49257046dp.jpg)
I also took this opportunity to make the drain cock for the fuel tank.
These are two thin aluminum tubes (0.3 in 0.5mm outer diameter each) and a hand toggle made from etched parts.
The maintenance flap is an etched part - the opening for the fuel drain cock was made with a drill and file.
(https://up.picr.de/49257048gu.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49257049ij.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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The decal markings are also attached to the model - the factory number consists of cut decal numbers from three different manufacturers.
Wingnut, Encore and Roden.
Surprisingly, the decals from Roden were the best of the three.
(https://up.picr.de/49257052jx.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49257056zv.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Now the sheet metal fittings:
These were fixed to the model with white wood glue and adjusted.
Then glued properly with superglue.
The two Windhoff ear radiators are also fitted in position.
(https://up.picr.de/49257038lw.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49257025od.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49257024uo.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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On the original, a thin wooden spacer was fitted between the curved fuselage fitting and the straight upright metal fitting of the radiator.
On the model, this was represented by a small piece of Evergreen plastic cut to size.
(https://up.picr.de/49257019co.jpeg)
(https://up.picr.de/49257018fs.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49257014vg.jpg)
"German Grey" from AK Interactive (3Gen) was used to show slight paint flaking on the sheet metal parts - including on the two radiators.
(https://up.picr.de/49257024uo.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49257015br.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Appropriate type plates were attached to the nose, the two radiators and the lower wing tips - thanks WingnutWings!
The plates will be filtered with some Tamiya "Smoke" etc. at a later date so that they don't look so "brand new".
(https://up.picr.de/49257102gf.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49257096qa.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49257094qq.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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I almost forgot about them:
The small oval frames made of thin wood around the openings of the steering cables.
Simply painted etched parts on the model .... but tiny.
It was a bit of a job to attach them to the model afterwards, but it worked.
(https://up.picr.de/49257109ot.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49257110fm.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49257108zu.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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The model is currently "jacked up in dry dock" so that I can measure the correct length of the four outer wing struts.
I am making a mix of the kit parts (struts) and brass tubes (strut stubs).
(https://up.picr.de/49257040vw.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49257043sg.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49257042mj.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49257041uu.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Bertl, another masterpiece!
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Such truly exquisite attention to detail!!
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Superb, absolutely superb. Thanks again for sharing your step by step photos, these will be so helpful for my future Albatros builds.
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Amazing craftsmanship! A pleasure seeing these builds come to life.
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Excellent, Bertl ! I'm beginning to run out of words to express my admiration for your great work
Greetings
Joerg
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Amazing....just...amazing.....
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@andonio, Zac, Nigel, Tim, Joerg and Allan
Thank you very much for your kind comments.
Servus
Bertl
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At the moment I've lost a little of my enthusiasm for model building, so I've only done a few small jobs on the Albatros D.I
The windshield is a kit part from the WingnutWings Albatros D.V/D.Va.
Of course it had to be adapted to the Albatros D.I compared to the rounder fuselage contour of the D.V.
But that was no great problem.
As the material thickness of the windshield straight out of the box is far too thick,
more than half of it was scraped off the back of the disk with a sharp scalpel blade.
The screw heads on the lower part of the windshield were marked with a 0.2 mm drill bit.
Then made transparent again with fine sandpaper and polishing paste.
The oil marks were made with heavily diluted dark brown oil colorant.
This was then sealed with Tamiya Smoke mixed with a drop of matt clear lacquer. Also on the back of the windshield to filter the strong shine of the transparent plastic.
(https://up.picr.de/49274894dl.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49274895fh.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49274896cf.jpg)
The rudder was given some minor ageing, weathering etc. with pastel.
(https://up.picr.de/49274897xu.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
Translated with DeepL.com (free version)
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The exhaust has now also been completed.
I have already described the painting technique in a post here in the thread, everything is quick and easy, really no witchcraft.
In the pictures, the exhaust was not yet glued to the model.
That's it again.
(https://up.picr.de/49274883ga.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49274886pz.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49274889dv.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49274888mk.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Incredible detail & paintwork Bertl.
Cheers,
Gary
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Very nice details! Truly inspirational.
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Thanks Gary and Andreas!
Servus
Bertl
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The windshield is now fixed to the Albatros model.
Positioned with white wood glue and then firmly attached with superglue.
(https://up.picr.de/49275363yl.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49275364tm.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49275362yt.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49275365sk.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49275367gt.jpg)
The wing root fairings are also ready to try on the model. Let's see how exactly they fit or whether they "need to be carved".
(https://up.picr.de/49275366vk.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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I keep finding wing root fairings in metal.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/23369dca-5e69-4fb6-a612-7f1549985561/e21b83b4-5076-4027-9dfd-fe9c80ad4926.png) (https://hosting.photobucket.com/23369dca-5e69-4fb6-a612-7f1549985561/e21b83b4-5076-4027-9dfd-fe9c80ad4926.png) (https://hosting.photobucket.com/23369dca-5e69-4fb6-a612-7f1549985561/2e612f41-d696-46f5-b3c7-2e4aff3c179e.png) (https://hosting.photobucket.com/23369dca-5e69-4fb6-a612-7f1549985561/2e612f41-d696-46f5-b3c7-2e4aff3c179e.png) (https://hosting.photobucket.com/23369dca-5e69-4fb6-a612-7f1549985561/531e54f9-3272-4737-ad5e-152f7923646e.png) (https://hosting.photobucket.com/23369dca-5e69-4fb6-a612-7f1549985561/531e54f9-3272-4737-ad5e-152f7923646e.png) (https://hosting.photobucket.com/23369dca-5e69-4fb6-a612-7f1549985561/58e7ccaf-f48a-4101-b647-95b0c40c92ca.png) (https://hosting.photobucket.com/23369dca-5e69-4fb6-a612-7f1549985561/58e7ccaf-f48a-4101-b647-95b0c40c92ca.png)
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At the moment I've lost a little of my enthusiasm for model building, so I've only done a few small jobs on the Albatros D.I
Now that's sad news, I can guarantee we have not lost enthusiasm for following your amazing builds. And it does seem like you are still making good progress, these recent updates are as amazing as always.
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Probably there were both!
wood (https://www.craftlab.at/albatros-allgemein?pgid=k6f51m93-4e8d1f5c-f7f5-49a3-9d23-f0dc06e37ab8) more wood (https://www.craftlab.at/albatros-allgemein?pgid=k6f51m93-96a28e4d-9be5-41f9-a4f1-599df1b832df)
Greetings Joachim
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Thank you, Allan, Nigel and Joachim ;D
I keep finding wing root fairings in metal.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/23369dca-5e69-4fb6-a612-7f1549985561/e21b83b4-5076-4027-9dfd-fe9c80ad4926.png) (https://hosting.photobucket.com/23369dca-5e69-4fb6-a612-7f1549985561/e21b83b4-5076-4027-9dfd-fe9c80ad4926.png) (https://hosting.photobucket.com/23369dca-5e69-4fb6-a612-7f1549985561/2e612f41-d696-46f5-b3c7-2e4aff3c179e.png) (https://hosting.photobucket.com/23369dca-5e69-4fb6-a612-7f1549985561/2e612f41-d696-46f5-b3c7-2e4aff3c179e.png) (https://hosting.photobucket.com/23369dca-5e69-4fb6-a612-7f1549985561/531e54f9-3272-4737-ad5e-152f7923646e.png) (https://hosting.photobucket.com/23369dca-5e69-4fb6-a612-7f1549985561/531e54f9-3272-4737-ad5e-152f7923646e.png) (https://hosting.photobucket.com/23369dca-5e69-4fb6-a612-7f1549985561/58e7ccaf-f48a-4101-b647-95b0c40c92ca.png) (https://hosting.photobucket.com/23369dca-5e69-4fb6-a612-7f1549985561/58e7ccaf-f48a-4101-b647-95b0c40c92ca.png)
Yes, apparently there were actually both variants of the wing root fairings - sheet metal, painted or, in the case of Oeffag, very often bare, as well as plywood.
For the D.I and D.II series types - as far as I have found pictures - probably only plywood.
Also on the Albatros D.III partly plywood, partly sheet metal.
However, it is sometimes difficult to make a 100% assessment of the black and white photos when the distance to the aircraft is greater.
However, a visual color match between the gray-green painted maintenance flaps and ventilation slots and the wing fairing can also help in making a decision.
Of course, original close-up photos on which the wood grain is clearly recognizable are great - but such (original) pictures of the D.I/D.II are hard to find.
Here are three D.I examples:
(https://up.picr.de/49277867rq.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49277865pe.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49277866bj.jpg)
And here are two Albatros D.II, the first by Wilhelm Leusch
(https://up.picr.de/49277869rs.jpg)
And the second one here is the D.II by Rudolf Berthold
(https://up.picr.de/49277868ep.jpg)
Here as an example the Albatros D.I D.435/16 where the fuselage is painted with camouflage.
Although I am sure that the wing panels were also made of plywood, it is not really possible to tell from the picture.
Were the wing cowlings painted over because they were made of wood like the fuselage, or were they made of sheet metal and the mechanic just painted over them in his zeal?
Interesting but on this picture the axial propeller still with the early logo, the dagger, instead of the later white and circular logo with the black ?A? (WNW says that the round Axial logo was rather pale gold instead of white).
(https://up.picr.de/49277863wr.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
Translated with DeepL.com (free version)
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Outstanding attention to tiny details makes your builds so much unique. Watching with great admiration!
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Great Bertl,
I was just hoping you were not too far along to change or correct it. Glad they were both so everybody is correct !!
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Masterful detail work
Sandy
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Everything in these builds is beautifully executed. And I can't wait to see the D.Va's when the color schemes get applied.
Warren Q
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As always your research is impeccable! The skill with which you put that research into the model is Incredible! Beautiful work.
RAGIII
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Thank you all very much for your kind comments!
Servus
Bertl
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The leading edge and trailing edge fairings on the wing roots are now on the model.
They fit surprisingly well on the front of the model, but the rear fairings needed some reworking - good thing I still had some in stock.
These had to be adapted in terms of contour and material thickness.
- Here in the first pictures the parts from the kit:
(The sink marks disappear in the course of the contour adjustment)
(https://up.picr.de/49350435rf.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49350433fx.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49350434qe.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49350438kl.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49350437fh.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49350436am.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
Translated with DeepL.com (free version)
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The heads of the nails on the fairings were marked with a 0.20 mm drill bit.
Painted with dark brown oil paint and sealed with silk matt varnish with the addition of a little clear orange and minimal Nato brown.
(https://up.picr.de/49350440dm.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49350441jc.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49350442qy.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49350443kw.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49350447kf.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49350444ey.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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I have also (finally) finished the expansion tank for the cooling water.
Sink marks on the left and right had to be filled and the water pipe from the engine to the tank and also the one from the tank to the rear to the pump was made with soldering wire scratch.
The tank was painted with Mr.Metalcolor "Aluminum", some "Stainless" and a little bit of "Iron". The hose sockets on the pipes were painted with Rubber-Black. The hose clamps were made with 0.09mm thin wire.
Weathering with highly diluted, dark brown oil paint.
I filed off the original cap on the tank.
For better handling, I inserted a piece of wire in place of the cap.
The new cap was made from a thin Evergreen plastic rod.
(https://up.picr.de/49350465hw.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49350464iw.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49350470cw.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49350468cd.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49350473km.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49350472pj.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Every update seems to take this build beyond stunning and way into the stratosphere...... Lovely work, and your step by step photos are so helpful, thanks again for posting them.
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More Beautiful work from a Master! The only problem I see is No One is ever going to Believe this is the Roden Kit 8)
RAGIII
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Truly astonishing attention to detail and craftsmanship. Beautiful beyond words!
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Im always amazed on the level of detail you are adding to a already stunning build :)
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Your wooden fairings and cooling water tank look fantastic - along with the rest of all the little oil stains and nail marks.
Cheers,
Gary
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These look better than the TVAL aircraft....
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This thread would be inspirational for the exhaust and expansion tank alone. What a show.
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Nice Job, Bertl!
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Thank you all for your kind comments regarding the Albatros.
The old model is now giving me a lot of pleasure with the detailing.
Originally I just wanted to finish the thing after all these years half-finished in the showcase without investing much time and effort, but my mind has changed - a few more little things will be added.
Unfortunately I don't have much time for model building at the moment, I'm very busy removing old floor tiles and wooden ceilings and wall paneling.
But even that will pass ... .
Servus
Bertl
Translated with DeepL.com (free version)
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I have reworked the canopy strut of the D.I a little and detailed it more carefully.
Basically, I rebuilt the entire strut again - I had found parts for it in the Encore Alb. D.II kit.
The screw connections for the upper wing were made with 0.5mm aluminum tubes and a bracket for a rear-view mirror was added.
The rear-view mirror is documented in the original picture of the D.450/16 by Carl Holler.
The bracket on the strut is a thin aluminum rod from a tea light.
The wire holder for the mirror itself was bent from a 0.3 mm copper wire.
The eyelets for the tension cables are made of 0.09 thick silver wire.
The right rear strut base was extended again so that it looks more like the original and does not appear "cut off".
Various paint chips were also added.
Where the upper wing is "screwed" onto the canopy strut, two brass rods have been glued in to give the fit a little more strength.
(https://up.picr.de/49350488if.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49350487do.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49350486re.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49350485sq.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49350484ej.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
Translated with DeepL.com (free version)
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The propeller equipment has also been completed and assembled.
The AXIAL propeller was given its wood grain with colored pencils.
It's nice that Roden thought of the correct logos for the AXIAL propeller up to the end of 1916 and included the corresponding decals with the kit.
Until the end of 1916 AXIAL used a dagger as propeller logo, later a round, white (pale gold says Wingnut Wings) logo with a big "A" on it.
Here I have used an axial propeller from Wingnut as it has a slightly more suitable contour than the Roden kit propeller.
The WNW backplate of the propeller was placed on the backplate of the spinner from the original Roden kit and glued in place.
(https://up.picr.de/49350513nw.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49379701fd.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49379700ur.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49350516pg.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49350515jh.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49350514rt.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Here the propeller is mounted on the nose of the Albatros without gluing for dry fitting.
What makes me particularly happy here is that the propeller sits almost exactly in the middle of the nose.
The air gap between the spinner and the engine cowling fits all the way around.
This required some adjustment work on the inner engine mount and the upper engine cowling at an early stage of construction.
What I like less - one of the Dolch logos turned to silvering.
I wonder if I didn't press the decal on enough or if I didn't apply enough glossy clearcoat in this area.
I don't know. Unfortunately, the propeller had to be painted with glossy paint to conceal the silvering.
Originally, the prop was only supposed to be painted in semi-gloss.
(https://up.picr.de/49379709fb.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49379708or.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49380368lt.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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The expansion tank for the cooling water is also in place.
The cover has also been fitted to the tank.
Now it was time to lay a return line on the expansion tank.
I used 0.25 mm silver wire for this.
(https://up.picr.de/49379711dq.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49379712pw.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Oil and pressure lines on the engine were also added and routed.
I used 0.3 mm copper wire for this.
By the way, the thin white engine number on the front of the first cylinder was painted on with a brush - I looked for matching numbers which consisted of straight lines and were therefore easier to paint.
The paint was Tamiya glossy white.
I just looked at a picture of the engine, the "characteristics" under the photo say it was June 22, 2009 .... . :o
(https://up.picr.de/49379718bw.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49379719eh.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49379716bb.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49379717cn.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49379714tf.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49379715mg.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Now it was time to think about the rear-view mirror.
Carl Holler had always fitted a rear-view mirror to the Albatros D.I and D.II airplanes he flew.
It was certainly used frequently back then - more frequently than some of his contemporaries do in their cars today .... .
I used a mirror from the Wingnut Wings kits here.
However, it was sanded much flatter on the back, a hole was drilled for the bracket and the edge was reworked with a scalpel so that a mirror glass could be inserted.
As a reflector for the mirror I used parts of the chrome-plated casing of an empty AAA battery that was lying around.
The glass was punched out of transparent packaging.
Reflector and glass are both 3mm in diameter.
(https://up.picr.de/49379723dr.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49379724cy.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49379721vh.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49379726vk.jpg)
And believe it or not, what you see in the mirror is not the shadow of the tip of the tweezers, but their reflection :D
(https://up.picr.de/49379727zh.jpg)
The 0.3 mm brass rod was glued in place for easier handling during painting of the mirror.
However, a short section of it remains after completion.
This was often the case with the original as well; the pilot could use this short lever to adjust the mirror slightly.
(https://up.picr.de/49380570tn.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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(https://up.picr.de/49379736zg.jpg)
The mirror was attached to the model.
I used white wood glue to adjust it, and after adjusting it, it was secured with superglue.
(https://up.picr.de/49379733ce.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49379732te.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49379737yx.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49379734rs.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49379731fl.jpg)
That's it for now.
Servus
Bertl
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Excellent.
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This is utterly exquisite. I don't have the words.
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This was an unbelievable set of posts. After each picture I was getting ready to post something but then there was update after update my I had to dig a hole so my jaw could drop further. Bertl, this is all superb work and I have run out of words to say how impressed I am with your skills. I just enjoy your posts so much and find them so helpful and inspiring.
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Great little touches giving the whole build(s) even more feel of reality.
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Bertl, one thing is for sure. I will not touch my Albatros D. I again before you have finished yours. Then I will try to copy a hundredth of your improvements on mine and I will be a happy person :)
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No matter how small the detail is it doesn't escape your Eyes or Modeling hands! Brilliant as always!
RAGIII
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Wonderful work. I've copied your efforts on the center cabane strut for my own D.II to D.I conversion, it's more helpful than looking at the real thing.
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Excellent.
Thank you very much, Bo
Servus
Bertl
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This is utterly exquisite. I don't have the words.
Thank you very much, Zak
Servus
Bertl
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Great little touches giving the whole build(s) even more feel of reality.
Thank you, PrzemoL
Yes, the little things that you often don't see at first glance bring many things to life.
And they distract from construction mistakes .... 8)
Servus
Bertl
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Bertl, one thing is for sure. I will not touch my Albatros D. I again before you have finished yours. Then I will try to copy a hundredth of your improvements on mine and I will be a happy person :)
Many thanks Andreas.
Well, I've seen some of your models live - I'm not worried about your Albatros D.I
This model will certainly be a feast for the eyes as well.
Servus
Bertl
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No matter how small the detail is it doesn't escape your Eyes or Modeling hands! Brilliant as always!
RAGIII
Thank you very much Rick for your kind comment. :D
Servus
Bertl
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Wonderful work. I've copied your efforts on the center cabane strut for my own D.II to D.I conversion, it's more helpful than looking at the real thing.
Thank you very much Allan.
I'm not sure if I really added all the little things to the canopy strut - it's better if you take a look at some original pictures of the D.I.
Unfortunately original pictures of the D.I are quite rare.
Servus
Bertl
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This was an unbelievable set of posts. After each picture I was getting ready to post something but then there was update after update my I had to dig a hole so my jaw could drop further. Bertl, this is all superb work and I have run out of words to say how impressed I am with your skills. I just enjoy your posts so much and find them so helpful and inspiring.
It really makes me happy to read your words, Nigel.
Meanwhile, the construction of the Albatros D.I is coming to an end, there is not much left to do before completion.
However, the three remaining Albatros D.V and D.Va's are still in my workshop.
So this thread will continue for a while - unless I take another long break.
Servus
Bertl
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As I'm currently busy at home ripping out old floor tiles, wall panels and a wooden ceiling, I thought to myself in the evening:
?..... why don't you do something small, something tiny for the Albatros D.I ...... ? after the rough work of the last few days?
Thought, done - here you go:
3D printed anemometer from Proper Plane.
A really nice little component with the finest detailing.
(https://up.picr.de/49420621bg.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49420590dd.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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It's hard to believe how many paint tins and tubes have to be opened to paint this tiny creature ... .
(https://up.picr.de/49421004mg.jpg)
Unfortunately, the dial decal is a little too big, but this is not noticeable to the naked eye.
(https://up.picr.de/49420613va.jpg)
In order to be attached to the outer left wing strut, the anemometer naturally requires an appropriate holder.
The aluminum coating of a tea light provides the right material for this.
A "tealight strip" just under a millimeter wide, cut to the right length and bent at the right angle, glued on with superglue, done.
(https://up.picr.de/49420612jk.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49420610es.jpg)
So that the anemometer can later be installed on the strut, a matching sleeve made of the same "tea light material" was attached there.
(https://up.picr.de/49420592gv.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49420591we.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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The four outer struts have also been painted and can now be fitted to the model.
Of course, the front of the struts also has small scratches and dirt.....
The "tea light holding sleeve" for the anemometer also looks quite usable.
(https://up.picr.de/49420606py.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49420607sy.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49420608lo.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49420614nq.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Sometimes mistakes happen.
I had underlaid the iron crosses on the underside of the lower wing with a white rectangle, but this is wrong - as the original pictures showed me.
They weren't decals, I had painted them all.
So I sanded everything down as far as possible, repainted it with light blue, masked the new EKs and then painted them again - now without the rectangle.
It wasn't that easy with the almost finished model. I almost left it as it was for fear of damaging something on the model, as wrong as it was.
You can see the previous outlines of the white rectangles a little under the macro light, but with the naked eye you can see (almost) nothing, thank God.
It will still be weathered and soiled a little.
Paint again Tamiya semi-gloss black with a few drops of light gray mixed in.
(https://up.picr.de/49420604wf.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49420605tv.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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The screw connection of the upper surface on the canopy strut was also added.
Roden completely omitted this screw connection, the wing is completely smooth.
I used resin screws from MaserClub to represent the screws.
The pictures show the "rough draft".
(https://up.picr.de/49420602yi.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49420603uo.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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A small detail, under the drain cocks of the two Windhoff ear radiators you can also see traces of dripping cooling water on the wing.
(https://up.picr.de/49421079jw.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49421078hb.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49421080hw.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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The upper wing sits on the struts and is also glued in place.
The bracing of the Albatros - except for the undercarriage - is also already around the corner.
It's always nice to see how the self-made turnbuckles - due to the thin wire used in the brass tube - align themselves in the direction of the tensile force.
(https://up.picr.de/49420667jf.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49420681xo.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49420679qe.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49420686br.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49420684az.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49420685qp.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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The elevator control cables are also already fixed in place.
(https://up.picr.de/49420692at.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49420691qy.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49420694hg.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49420693qt.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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All control surfaces are deflected according to the stick and rudder bar position.
(https://up.picr.de/49420689fq.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49420690wm.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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In retrospect, I'm glad that I spent a lot more time on the model than I had originally planned after picking it up again years later.
However, some cosmetic improvements (also in the cockpit) are still necessary.
But that's at the very end.
Now to build the undercarriage.
This was already finished as a separate component, but the Zentrale Abnahmekommission (ZAK) (or in English Central Acceptance Commission) refused to give me the stamp for the successful load test over 40Kg .......... briefly, I accidentally stepped on it with my foot ::)
(https://up.picr.de/49420702pu.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49420709qn.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49420708xi.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49420710gw.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49420712an.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49420705sp.jpg)
That's all for now.
Servus
Bertl
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Stunning work Bertl, this is an absolute gem all round. And I am glad you will overcome the issues with the underside crosses and the clumsy treatment of your undercarriage!
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Bertl, you have Superman eyeballs and an incredibly steady hand to pull off the tiny incredible details. This Albatros is really really something.
Warren Q
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Wow incredible work! ;D
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Absolutely stunning work, Bertl ! Congrats !
Greetings
Joerg
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That is an absolutely Gorgeous Albatros! The rigging is perfect. Looking forward to the next post!
RAGIII
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Stunning work Bertl, this is an absolute gem all round. And I am glad you will overcome the issues with the underside crosses and the clumsy treatment of your undercarriage!
Hi Nigel,
yes, the problem with the iron crosses incorrectly underlaid in the white rectangle has been repaired.
The undercarriage has also been completely rebuilt.
This built of the Roden Albatros D.I is nearing completion.
Servus
Bertl
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Bertl, you have Superman eyeballs and an incredibly steady hand to pull off the tiny incredible details. This Albatros is really really something.
Warren Q
Thank you very much Warren.
Well, I'm sure I missed and/or didn't show some interesting details.
But this time I'm quite happy with the result so far.
Servus
Bertl
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Wow incredible work! ;D
Vielen Dank @AngryJazz ;D
Servus
Bertl
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Absolutely stunning work, Bertl ! Congrats !
Greetings
Joerg
Vielen herzlichen Dank, Joerg ;)
Thank you very much, Joerg ;)
Servus
Bertl
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That is an absolutely Gorgeous Albatros! The rigging is perfect. Looking forward to the next post!
RAGIII
Thank you very much, Rick.
Yes, this time I'm quite happy with the result so far.
Now the undercarriage and a few other little things and this Roden Albatros D.I is finished.
Servus
Bertl
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Moving on - there is not much left to do on the model.
Now to the undercarriage.
This is the second version, unfortunately there are no photos of the first one - but in retrospect it doesn't matter anyway as I accidentally crushed it >:(
The rear strut leg was hollowed out with a 0.5mm drill to a depth of 11mm.
A 0.5mm thick brass rod was inserted into this deep hole and bent at the protruding end at the correct angle - strut to fuselage.
A number of smaller indentations can also be seen on the strut shafts - these were drilled with a 0.3mm drill.
(https://up.picr.de/49437790uy.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49437778nb.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49437779hs.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49437781es.jpg)
Here a strut leg is attached to the model to check the correct alignment.
This alignment was simply done by eye, I didn't measure or anything.
(https://up.picr.de/49437780rl.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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A crossbar is inserted between the two undercarriage struts.
The kit contains a somewhat oversized and rather soft plastic rod for this purpose, which is too thick at the ends to dip cleanly into its gluing points on the strut.
On the model I therefore cut a 0.7mm brass tube with a 0.5mm inner diameter.
A 0.5mm thin brass rod was inserted into this 0.7mm tube and soldered to the ends of the 0.7mm tube.
The protruding ends of the brass rod were then bent at a suitable angle to align the two undercarriage struts with each other.
A 0.5mm hole was drilled in each of the plastic struts at the original gluing point to attach this self-made crossbar.
The alignment of the undercarriage to each other, including the correct angle to the fuselage, was again done by eye.
(https://up.picr.de/49437784jo.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49437787ny.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49437785iw.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49437789oo.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49437786zh.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Once I was satisfied with the alignment of the undercarriage on the model, the parts were fixed together with superglue.
The undercarriage itself was only attached to the fuselage at its gluing points; this will only be attached there later as a separate component.
The axle is again the kit part, but filed and sanded thinner all round.
Painted with Tamiya XF-76 gray-green.
I used a 0.30 mm thick solder to represent the spring steel cables (suspension of the wheels on the axle).
The suspension was simply omitted by Roden.
(https://up.picr.de/49437799zo.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49437801vt.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49437803py.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49437802rq.jpg)
These two small pieces will be the base plates for the rear landing gear struts with which they are flanged to the fuselage - Roden only provides a blunt connection of the metal strut to the wooden fuselage - which is wrong in principle.
(https://up.picr.de/49437804ij.jpg)
These are the undercarriage parts (among others) of the CrabtLab Albatros D.II/D.III, which were identical to the D.I parts.
Here you can also see the weight holes on the strut stubs which were unfortunately not present on the model and were therefore subsequently indicated with a 0.3 drill.
The base plates on the rear strut stubs mentioned in the previous picture are also clearly visible.
(https://up.picr.de/49437805ks.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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The underside of the two lower surfaces and also the elevator fin and elevator received some weathering. I used ?Mud? from the Tamiya weathering master set #A for this.
This self-adhesive powder was applied with a normal brush and rubbed into the matt light blue paint surface.
For the most part, however, only where dirt can be thrown up by the rotating wheels - and also on the tail skid.
Splashes of different shades of brown oil paint diluted with turpentine were then applied over the soiling with the pastel powder.
Almost colorless splashes of turpentine and virtually no color were also applied to the entire underside area.
The latter in particular has an interesting effect - depending on the incidence of light, a little more or a little less of it can be seen on the light blue.
(https://up.picr.de/49437795lj.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49437796jw.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49437792vi.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49437794wp.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49437793ve.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49437791gb.jpg)
That's all for today.
Servus
Bertl
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Have I already Said that I like what You do here?
;)
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Me too, have I mentioned I think your work is beyond amazing ;)? But I have to say thanks you again for posting such detailed build photos and references that will be very helpful for anyone (like me) with this kit in the stash.
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2nd that ! Truly another masterpiece
Kind regards
Joerg
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I continue to be Blown Away by your details and modeling skills! The gear mods are perfect and will certainly be stronger than the kit supplied parts. Subtle weathering is also amazing!
RAGIII
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Amazing. Terrific weathering and building, I've not seen a model that looks as much like the real thing.
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Have I already Said that I like what You do here?
;)
Hi Andreas,
I don't think so - at least I can't remember 8)
Servus
Bertl
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Me too, have I mentioned I think your work is beyond amazing ;)? But I have to say thanks you again for posting such detailed build photos and references that will be very helpful for anyone (like me) with this kit in the stash.
Hi Nigel,
I'm very pleased that you see this build report as support for your own ideas for your Albatros model. Even if it is currently still unbuilt on the shelf.
That's the point of building reports - one helps the other or shows ways of building a model that you didn't know about yourself.
I myself always find new ideas or ways here in the forum and then just try them out on some model.
Servus
Bertl
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2nd that ! Truly another masterpiece
Kind regards
Joerg
Vielen Dank Joerg - habe deine Nieuports und die Pfalz gesehen, ebenfalls hervorragend gebaute kleine Juwelen.
Many thanks Joerg - have seen your Nieuports and the Pfalz, also superbly built little gems.
Servus
Bertl
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I continue to be Blown Away by your details and modeling skills! The gear mods are perfect and will certainly be stronger than the kit supplied parts. Subtle weathering is also amazing!
RAGIII
Thanks a lot Rick.
Yes, the chassis is indeed more stable with this brass than before.
Although it should also be noted that the plastic material from Roden is a bit soft.
At least on the struts and some other thin components, I would often like to have more stable plastic material in the kit.
But well, as long as you can help yourself .... .
Servus
Bertl
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Amazing. Terrific weathering and building, I've not seen a model that looks as much like the real thing.
Thank you very much Allan,
I'm very pleased if you like this little Albatros.
Servus
Bertl
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Another small but final step for the D.I towards its place in the display case.
The undercarriage components are painted, aged, soiled and ready to be installed on the model.
I had already completely painted and finished the two wheels in summer 2009 - now they are finally being fitted.
The yellow arrow in the last picture points to the eyelet for the undercarriage bracing.
This was made from 0.09mm thin silver-plated copper wire wound around a 0.3mm drill bit.
(https://up.picr.de/49444779rp.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49444780pm.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49444778ko.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49444781al.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49444782tf.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49444783qn.jpg)
That's all for now.
Servus
Bertl
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More lovely work....... :)
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The lovely large closeups of this amazing work make you forget how tiny this stuff really is. And how difficult it is to achieve the results you get. Wonderful work.
Warren Q
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More lovely work....... :)
Yeah, who would have figured 8)
RAGIII
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:)
Alexis
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Wonderful. . . And you are on the finishing line!
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Thank you for your kind comments Nigel, Warren, Rick, Alexis and Andreas.
The Albatros D.I is standing on the table waiting for the glue on the undercarriage to harden.
The undercarriage is completely installed, the wheels are on, and the undercarriage legs are already tensioned.
Of course, the two rigging cables in the lower section have also been soiled with oil-based paint to match the rest of the undercarriage.
(https://up.picr.de/49448740bf.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49448741gl.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49448739sr.jpg)
A short time later, I also fixed the propeller to the nose of the Albatros.
I think that I will be able to check off the construction of the Albatros D.I as finished tomorrow, or Monday at the latest.
Servus
Bertl
Translated with DeepL.com (free version)
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Landing gear on, propeller on, tail unit and wings sealed on all sides with a mixture of silk matt clear varnish and two drops of beige .... so I think the thing is finished.
Wait, I've just seen in the pictures that the pressure line from the cooling water expansion tank, which is routed up to the upper wing, is still missing - but OK, I'll do that later.
The last picture shows the difference between the wing structure of the Albatros D.I/D.II and the later D.III/D.V and D.Va series.
(https://up.picr.de/49459869ls.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49459860ma.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49459852oz.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49459867yb.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/49459868fm.jpg)
More pictures of Carl Holler's Albatros D.I "Red Four" later in the completed models section
Servus
Bertl
Translated with DeepL.com (free version)
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Congratulations Bertl, fantastic build and fun to follow.
Will leave comments over on the Completed section.
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What a pair of beauty! congratulations!
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Wonderful and beautiful models! So much to learn and to marvel at - thank you so much for the detailed posts and updates ;D
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Well done, really looking forward to some detailed completed shots.