"Captured!" WNW Albatros DV in RFC Livery

[Trackpad]

Thank you both, Rick and Dave, for visiting and sending your very kind messages. I hope to follow up with fitting the machine guns and other items on the forward fuselage. Once that is completed, I expect to modify the fuselage to monoplane status and then give it some feet. 

Thanks again for your visits! 

[Trackpad]

As I mentioned earlier, here is the problem PE part. The part is circled at lower right and the diagram/instructions are circled upper left. The problem is with the rectangular part of the PE at the one o'clock position and the small square portion at four o'clock. I'm sure that the left edge (nine o'clock) aligns with the inside edge of the wing stub but, in doing so, I'm not clear as to how the "problem area" is folded. There are two "creases" along the two portions described above, but in trying various "creasing options" nothing seems to line up properly along the inside edge of the lozenge decal. I've pretty much destroyed the one PE part due to experimentation, but I have a second fret to hand just in case I needed it (which I did for another problem, already sorted!) so a replacement is readily available.



If anyone can clarify the way these parts are to be used I'd very much appreciate the help. If not, I'll just have to fall back on the "blind, stupid luck" that got the Shapeways radiator in place! 

Thanks in advance for any help, and thanks also for visiting! 

[Gisbod]

Great thread Gary 

Guy

[pepperman42]

I think the narrower strip folds over its self then in toward the bigger plate. Then the two "discs' fold over top,one on the bigger plate the other on the folded in strip. Does that describe it?

Steve

[RAGIII]

I think the narrower strip folds over its self then in toward the bigger plate. Then the two "discs' fold over top,one on the bigger plate the other on the folded in strip. Does that describe it?

Steve

I think Steve has it right. On the other hand, I am quite happy with the WNW representation so if I had the PE set I would take the lazy way out  That is why your Albatros is looking so much more detailed than mine!
RAGIII

[Trackpad]

Great thread Gary 

Guy

Thanks, Guy. I certainly appreciate your comment and your visit! 

[Trackpad]

Steve and Rick,

OK, thanks very much for your thoughts and insights. I'll give this option a try later today as it appears to be the answer. More to follow. Fingers crossed! (But not while I'm doing the folding!  ) 

[krow113]

The answer does sound right to me too. A good way to check is to look at the kit part it replaces , if there is one.

[Trackpad]

The answer does sound right to me too. A good way to check is to look at the kit part it replaces , if there is one.

Hi, Krow,
Regrettably, there is no kit part. The attachment points for rigging (and many other features available on the PE fret) are already molded on the kit parts. The routine is to shave and sand them from the kit parts, then use CA or Epoxy glue to attach the PE replacements. Here's a section of forward fuselage to illustrate. Note the three attachment point PE parts in place along the top edge, and the additional attachment point molded on the fuselage to the far right. That one got sanded off and replaced by PE once the fuselage plywood paneling decals were in place:



Thanks for your comments and your visit! 

[Trackpad]

Well, gentlemen, I think that you've broken the code. The key point that I hoisted aboard while "bending" is that there is no reason to bend the various part components as far as they can be bent. The attachment point requires four cable connectors, two leading up to the cabane struts and the other two leading out to the inter-plane struts. So the first fold gave two holes while the remaining two folds provided one connection point each. I didn't even use a calculator to figure out that I now have four connection points = problem solved!



I must apologize for the small image. The macro feature on my camera is not working. I hope to have it looked at next week in Ottawa. Maybe a new camera is in order?? 

Thanks again for this workable solution, and thanks to all for visiting. What a great bunch of Forumites we have! 

[dr 1 ace]

Looking good !

Ed

[Trackpad]

Looking good !

Ed

 !   

[Trackpad]

Hello, Everyone,

After having apparently solved the problem of that folded PE part, I began to have second thoughts. There was something that just wasn’t “right” about it. I dithered around for a bit and then decided that I’d use some thin plasticard to manufacture a doable plate for the rigging. I used the PE part as a template and cut the basic plate from card, then fitted a reinforcing strip along the outside edge. Four rigging holes were drilled into the plate once it had been glued in place. Phase One complete.

I’m using the Gaspatch 3-D printed Type “C” turnbuckles. These have circular attachment holes on either end. To attach them to the plate I threaded a length of thin (36 gauge) nickel chromium wire through one end of a turnbuckle and then bent the wire back on itself. Then, using my handmade eyelet making tool (https://www.ww1aircraftmodels.com/page26.html) I ran the “hook” of the tool through the bend in the wire (and not through the turnbuckle attachment hole) and turned the tool until I had an eyelet formed around the turnbuckle end. With the tool removed there is sufficient space to allow full movement of the turnbuckle, which will be needed when the rigging is fitted. With three more assemblies made, they were glued into place with small amounts of 5-minute epoxy glue. Finally I ran thin CA glue around the edges of the plate to ensure that all was solidly attached. Here is the final assembly on the right lower wing section:



I intend to use EZ-Line for the rigging for the time being, with the Modelkasten line as a possibility. I’m new to the MK line and so have to do a bit of experimentation with it before I commit to its use.

Comments and suggestions are always welcome. Thanks very much for visiting! 

[lcarroll]

   As I said in my earlier PM Gary, I like this solution. Confirm the nichrome eyelets are glued to the card "plate" with 5 minute epoxy, no counter sinking into the wing or reinforcements? As a Tanker Buddy often says, "curious minds need to know"!
Cheers,
Lance

[Trackpad]

   As I said in my earlier PM Gary, I like this solution. Confirm the nichrome eyelets are glued to the card "plate" with 5 minute epoxy, no counter sinking into the wing or reinforcements? As a Tanker Buddy often says, "curious minds need to know"!
Cheers,
Lance

Hi, Lance. I drilled four holes into the plate, one for each turnbuckle. Each nichrome eyelet has a twisted "tail" about 1/8th inch long which fit fully into the drilled holes. All you can see on the plate is the nichrome "loop" holding the turnbuckle in place. I did this both to ensure that the turnbuckle was solidly anchored and also that the plate itself "ain't goin' nowhere." The thin CA was an afterthought, added as additional insurance that the plate will stay where I want it. Me? Paranoid?? Perish the thought! 

I've just started the work on the next turnbuckles so I'll post a photo or two once finished showing my method. And what's this? You have an Armoured Corps friend? You social climber, you!