R.F.C. Pilot & Trophy 1917 vignette WIP

[Des]

Coming together very nicely Paddy, I'm taking notice and keeping notes.

Des.

[phs Paddy]

Nice work. The paint layers build up ok? I find even after drying acrils go soft with the next layer.

Steve

Hi Steve,

Thanks for that.

Yes, the layers build up very nicely if you allow a little drying time between applications, and we’re not talking hours here, but more like ten or fifteen minutes. If you add a drying extender I understand it’s possible to do some minor blending. I’ve only used the layering technique, know as glazing in some circles, by varying the colour ratios, and dilution rates to achieve a transparent and gradual colour buildup with a single colour or mix allowing the undercoat to show through. Works great if followed. (Check out the tutorial in the Layer section).

Paddy 

[phs Paddy]

Thanks very much to all of you for taking a look and your comments.

I’ve now decided its time to workout the assembling sequence before I get my tail in a crack. I did want at least one base coat applied to the jacket before the arms are mounted since areas under the arms maybe a little difficult to reach.

I’m going to use 30 minute epoxy for attaching the arms to give myself a little more time in positioning, especially the right arm and hand that will be holding the edge of the rudder. Also, I’m going to pin the rudder at the point it will rest on the base to allow for a solid but temporary mount for locating the right arm and hand. I’ll then be ready to return to the final putty work around the arm attach point, and start getting into the fun part of watching each application of paint start to bring the figure to life. During this period I’ll also return to the skin colour applications.

Time to get it in gear now and return to the shop.   

Paddy 

[phs Paddy]

Something I want to mention that I find a big help is to use two hands when doing brush work. Rest your off hand on something stable, like your workbench, and cradle your brush hand in the off hand. It will give you real confidence in doing small details but also helps with base, highlights and shadow painting. Of course you’ll need something to hold your figure so rolling up a kitchen paper towel and taping will work.

Here I’m getting ready to apply filler to the seam between the arm and body after the 30 minute epoxy glue up.



Paddy

[Des]

Excellent tips Paddy, the two handed approach is a good idea, this would give a very stable platform. You say you are going to use 30 minute epoxy for fixing the arms, is this the only type of glue, apart from CA, that will fix resin parts?

Des.

[LindsayT]

If you're using two hands to paint, did you take the picture with your third and fourth hand?  I'm assuming you've got them to get such great detail. Great work!

Lindsay

[pepperman42]

With all the paint and glue fumes ya just grow a third and fourth arm...

Steve

[phs Paddy]

Excellent tips Paddy, the two handed approach is a good idea, this would give a very stable platform. You say you are going to use 30 minute epoxy for fixing the arms, is this the only type of glue, apart from CA, that will fix resin parts?

Des.

Des,

The two glues I read about most often in the figure arena is epoxy and ca with epoxy being the first choice with white metal, except for small parts that are light weight pieces.

Recently I started using ca + in my Dr.1 project attaching the photo-etch plywood sheet borders to sheet plastic and had very good success with it holding when bent verses the thin ca. Now, this leads me to believe that if working with white metal it maybe an acceptable choice for me if the piece is not to heavy or will be pinned.

For resin figures I’m thinking of using ca + as long as it is used sparingly to prevent any squeeze out on joints unless intentional for some reason. Also, I’m thinking of trying white glue, I’ll test first of course, by spreading a thing layer on each part before pressing together. If that works it seems it would be a good choice especially if you needed to remove the part for some reason before painting. A little soak of the components in water and they may come apart with out any problem. Just a thought.

Oh, yes, I did use 30 minute epoxy for gluing the first arm to the jacket body.

@ Lindsay & Steve

 

The extra arms are call a camera set to timer release, 10 seconds, and mounted on a tripod. 

Paddy 

[phs Paddy]

Still thinking the best way for me to bring the figure together is to now paint the trousers and boot piece. The Jacket fits down over the trousers far enough that I think it will cause come interference doing the finish painting, so gluing up the two pieces now would be a hindrance.

As you can see I’ve started painting the lower half of the figure and I’m not happy with the colour of the trouser base I chose and will be changing that. There are three coats of a cork brown base on and its just not cutting it for me. Is easy to make the change now, just adds a small amount of time to the effort.



When the trouser piece is finished I’ll then be able to attach the body and then position the right arm for gluing to hold the rudder. I’ve cut a 2” square of cherry wood to serve as the base and it’s been drilled to hold the pinned figure and pinned rudder in position while I glue the arm in place. Since the body and rudder are pinned separate I’ll then be able to lift the pieces from the base for the final painting and detailing. ( I just need to remember not to glue the hand to the rudder.  )



I’m having a ball with this, both mags still holding within RPM limits, but I’ve probably put those of you that were still looking off to slumber land by now. 

Paddy 

[Chris Johnson]

I’m having a ball with this, both mags still holding within RPM limits, but I’ve probably put those of you that were still looking off to slumber land by now. 

Take your time paddy. I'm soaking it all in, waiting for 'Lets Go' to arrive in the mail.

Cheers,

Chris

[pepperman42]

these boots were made for flying.....

Steve

[phs Paddy]

these boots were made for flying.....

Steve

   

[phs Paddy]

All the base colours have now been applied to the lower end, that is except the yellow pencil tucked into the boot with the note pad........ doh!



There will be some touch-up necessary but not to worry until we have first done the highlighting and then the shadowing plus details like buckles, etc. After that comes outlining, and edging. But possibly before that you may like to do some toning depending on how the over all figure looks to you in order to soften harsh contrasts. (Please see the online tutorial by Mario Fuentes for the explanations of the above procedures. They’re short.  )

After we finish up the breeches end of the figure then we’ll start final assembly of the upper torso to the lower end so we can start the final painting. All of the above steps are fun to do IMO and I’ll post more photos as we go.

Paddy 

P.S. The new trouser colour hits one in the eye.  Looking back I now like the colour I had before the new selection. I maybe changing again.     

Back to the drawing board.

[pepperman42]

The pants are very" mustardy". How about a bit of green to that colour? It is looking good though!!

Steve

[phs Paddy]

The pants are very" mustardy". How about a bit of green to that colour? It is looking good though!!

Steve

Well, if I’d gone with the colour sheet there would have been some green in the trouser colour. It called for Khaki which has a touch of green in it, but no I just had to go off and mess in my nest. I feel a mission coming on and attacking with either the Buff colour I had before or going with the Mfg’s call out of Khaki. I’m terrible with picking colours and know that I should stick with the cookbook. You would think at my tender age I would have learned that by now.  That’s one of the things about seeing your work on the tube. It’s a great critic and does not pull punches.   

Thanks for taking a look Steve and your thought.

Paddy