forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => WW1 Aviation Figures => Topic started by: phs Paddy on April 23, 2012, 12:19:34 AM
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I’ve had this white metal kit in the locker for some time and have been itching to have a go. So, in celebration of the opening of Des’ new forum I found the excuse I was looking for. The first image is where I'll be attempting to go.
(Updated to a better image!)
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r67/pats_album/Trophy.jpg)
The following photo is of the figure’s parts minus the rudder. They’re now primed and I’m in the process of filling pin holes with Mr Surfacer.
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r67/pats_album/IMG_1014.jpg)
Here I’ve started the colour coats on the rudder depicting an Albatros kite. The colour coats at this point were done with Tamiya acrylics after the prime coat. The yellow base coat is a mix I picked up from WnW’s Albatros D.V instructions for chrome yellow. The Balken Kruse (sp?) was done with two different masks I cut and you’ll notice that the white outline appears a little to the wide side. Just count that as artist license. ;) Highlights, shadows and weathering will come a little futher along.
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r67/pats_album/IMG_1000.jpg)
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r67/pats_album/IMG_1004.jpg)
OK, so here we go with a small vignette which may qualify for the diorama section. Just remember that I’m relatively new to figure painting but all comments are welcome, but be gentle. :)
Paddy
P.S. I know, I know. Don’t seem to be happy unless I’m working on more than one project at a time.
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That is an interesting little vignette you have there Paddy, who is it by?
Nice start on the painting as well.
Best Regards
Keith
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Splendid :)
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A very interesting vignette Paddy, good luck with the painting.
Cheers
Pete.
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That is an interesting little vignette you have there Paddy, who is it by?
Nice start on the painting as well.
Best Regards
Keith
Keith the company that marketed this figure is 'The Fusilier' out of the U.K. and their packaging was marked 'The Great War 1914-18 & Trench Stores Accessories'. The figure size is 80mm or approx. 1/24 scale. The stockiest I purchased from is state side.
Paddy
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Splendid :)
Thanks David. Now let's hope I can do it justice.
Paddy
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A very interesting vignette Paddy, good luck with the painting.
Cheers
Pete.
Thanks Pete. Fingers crossed.
Paddy
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Thanks Paddy for posting this interesting vignette, I will be keeping a close watch on this one especially when you start doing the face. I just purchased the latest Kellerkind figure, their RFC pilot called "Let's Go", I have never painted a figure before so watching how you attack yours will be a great learning curve for me, and others.
Des.
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Paddy,
Thanks very for sharing this wonderful vignette my friend.I really love the detail of the pilot.I'm looking forward to following this thread. I done figures before so no big problem in doing the uniforns and euipment . My problem is always the face and the skintones. Frankly my efforts to date uh without being too crude draw a vacuum. I looking forward to watching how you handle the
face and skintones.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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Thats going to be sharp.
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Aye, faces, now there’s the rub. Des, you and Gregory are right on about the face being the toughest part of a figure, at least that’s my opinion too. One thing about this chap is he’s wearing goggles which may help a bit on that score. Let’s hope I handle it properly and not have to put a sack over the bloke’s head when I’m finished. :D :D :D
Paddy
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Thats going to be sharp.
Thanks Steve. Hope you're right about that and I don't mess in my nest. ;D
Paddy
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Thanks Paddy for posting this interesting vignette, I will be keeping a close watch on this one especially when you start doing the face. I just purchased the latest Kellerkind figure, their RFC pilot called "Let's Go", I have never painted a figure before so watching how you attack yours will be a great learning curve for me, and others.
Des.
Your welcome Des.
I remember you mentioning you had ordered "Let's Go" and I'm looking forward to reading your review. From the picture I remembering seeing on the net it looks like a great figure to have. Lots of potential there, especially in a diorama. I can't rememer if it's resin or white metal but what I'm beginning to see is resin figures having very sharp detail with little or no flaws. So, again it will be good to hear what you think. BTW, with your skills you'll do a grand job right out of the box, but if I can contribute anything worth while to you or the group I would take it as a feather in my cap. :)
Paddy
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I'll be watching this with interest Paddy. As with many others, I'm challenged when it comes to face painting. I remember doing a Verlinden British paratrooper years ago and by the time I stopped blending the face, the poor fellow had a five o'clock shadow on his forehead.
Cheers,
Chris
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I'll be watching this with interest Paddy. As with many others, I'm challenged when it comes to face painting. I remember doing a Verlinden British paratrooper years ago and by the time I stopped blending the face, the poor fellow had a five o'clock shadow on his forehead.
Cheers,
Chris
;D ;D ;D I'm part of the challenged group also Chris but I've hitched up the braces and with fingers crossed will soldier on.
Another figure I have going was almost complete except for the head. I managed to drop the partially painted head on the concrete floor and it suffered some facial disfigurement which turned out to be a blessing and it now resides in the dust bin. :D A new set of five heads were ordered for backup whenever I try to put a new face on the North African French tank commander again.
Paddy
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You wouldn't happen to have Steve Zaloga's Modeling US Armor of World War II would you Paddy? He has an all too short section within that details how he paints his faces. He's simplified the process considerably, although I would've preferred that he detail the whole procedure in photographs.
Cheers,
Chris
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Yes, I have that book by Zaloga. I think his approach and technique is fine for the level he wants to achieve but I prefer reaching a little further for more highlights and shadows. Sometimes I think one doesn’t realize the effect that a subtle push can have but if not there it’s noticed. How’s that for an old sod that’s a rank beginner and not even close to being in Steve Zaloga’s class? I do like his AFVs very much though.
Paddy
P.S. Thanks for the heads up on Zaloga's book.
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Ah, ha! If you have that Zaloga book, I'm thinking that you've built an AFV or two in your time.
Cheers,
Chris
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Hi Paddy,
Great start on the vignette!
May I ask you how did you mask the cross?
I mean, did you design the masks yourself? How did you do that? Do you have a "special" technique?
You see, I always wanted to mask and paint crosses and cockardes on my planes, but never set to it as I'm sure I'll spoil the model.... So how did you do that? How did you center the second mask?
Thank you for your help
Ciao
Edo
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Thanks for the information Paddy I'll have to try and track one of these down, as I'm rather partial to a bit of figure painting now and again.
You may find this interesting?
http://www.militarymodelling.com/news/article.asp?a=4546 (http://www.militarymodelling.com/news/article.asp?a=4546)
Best regards,
Keith
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Great idea! I may try that with a 120mm Mv.R figgy from Model Cellar.
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Hi Paddy,
Great start on the vignette!
May I ask you how did you mask the cross?
I mean, did you design the masks yourself? How did you do that? Do you have a "special" technique?
You see, I always wanted to mask and paint crosses and cockardes on my planes, but never set to it as I'm sure I'll spoil the model.... So how did you do that? How did you center the second mask?
Thank you for your help
Ciao
Edo
Hello Edo,
I’ll be happy to describe the process I used to make the masks.
1. First I traced the outline of the area I wished to mask, in this case the rudder, onto tracing paper that you can see through. This outline became my register.
2. I then drew the image of the graphic I wished to reproduce on the tracing paper. The tracing paper would now allow me to flip it over to see the opposite side of the area to be masked without redrawing the image.
3. Tape the tracing paper with image to your drawing surface.
4. Now tape kitchen wax paper large enough to protect the drawing over your image.
5. Stick the painter’s masking tape, large to cover the outline of the rudder in this case, to the wax paper then tape the wax paper over your image.
The painters masking tape you use must be transparent enough to see the image underneath. The tape I used looks very much like Tamiya Tape and I can get it in rolls 1 and 7/8 inches wide. In my area it is carried by the Sherwin Williams paint stores and is called Shurtape Razor Edge Gold™ Painter’s Tape (see www.shurtape.com ).
6. Trace your graphic and in my case the rudder outline onto the masking tape. I used a drafting pencil.
7. Remove the wax paper from you drawing with the masking tape still sticking to it and tape it to a good firm cutting surface. You want a razor sharp line when you cut through the masking material.
Going through this sequence of steps will save your drawing from being cut and therefore reusable for as many times as you like.
8. I use a new Excel #11 blade as my cutting tool and free hand the cuts.
9. Removed the mask from the wax paper and apply it to the rudder. You're now ready to paint.
The first mask I cut was the outline of the outside of the cross which was to be painted white. The second mask was the inside of the cross that was to be painted black.
After applying the masks in sequence and painting I was then ready to turn the drawing of the image over and begin the process for the opposite side of the rudder.
As you suspect registering the masks was the most difficult part of the process but sure doable. When I try this again though I will try to workout registration marks on the graphic that will be transferred to the masking material to match registration marks on the object to be painted.
Well Edo, hope I made my process clear and it is a help to you in the future. The process has room for improvement that’s for sure but it maybe a starting place for you. Finding transparent painter’s masking tape is the heart of the whole process.
If you give this a go let us know how it went and if I can answer any questions please feel free to ask.
See you later,
Paddy :)
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Thanks for the information Paddy I'll have to try and track one of these down, as I'm rather partial to a bit of figure painting now and again.
You may find this interesting?
http://www.militarymodelling.com/news/article.asp?a=4546 (http://www.militarymodelling.com/news/article.asp?a=4546)
Best regards,
Keith
Thank you Keith. That will make a very good reference and I'm sure I'll refer to it many times; now bookmarked. Good stuff sir.
All the best,
Paddy
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Ah, ha! If you have that Zaloga book, I'm thinking that you've built an AFV or two in your time.
Cheers,
Chris
;D ;D ;D
Dabbled a bit but never finished one.
Paddy :)
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Thanks Paddy, for that detailed explanation of how you do your masks. I'll be printing it out so I can study it at length to ensure that I understand the process completely. If not, I'll come a knockin' for clarification! ;D
Cheers,
Chris
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I decided to start the figure’s painting with the face, and hands using Vallejo Panzer Aces # 341 Flesh Base, #342 Flesh Highlights and #343 Flesh Shadows. The first step then is to apply the first coat of the flesh base with a mix ratio of 1 paint to 1water. I always use distilled water to avoid any contaminates in the thinner. This will be allowed to dry at least three hours before I apply the second coat of flesh base or any other base color for that matter. After the initial base coat is dry it seems to be safe to proceed at much shorter intervals.
(The flesh base appears darker here than it is.)
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r67/pats_album/IMG_1024AC.jpg)
This photo covers the basic needs during and after a session. I cover my mixing palette with aluminum foil to speed the cleaning process after all the cells have been used. I add the amount of water I wish to use for thinning with a dropper as the paint is dispensed in drops from the Vallejo bottles. I then use a brush for mixing and in this case I use the widest flat brush I could to apply the paint. At the end of the session I always wash my brushes in a canned soap making sure I form the tips for drying. Another point about brushes is have a set that you use for acrylics and another set for use with artist oils or enamels.
One of the most important things to remember is to shake the paint well. I always shake my paint at least 3 minutes before starting a session and a quick shake before adding more paint to the palette as I go along. I can’t emphasize the importance of this enough when using Vallejo acrylics.
(Base flesh color’s lighter tone is more accurate in this image.)
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r67/pats_album/IMG_1021.jpg)
Now for those of you that are interested in the technique I’m going to use it can be found in the following magazine. It’s no longer in print but if you would like a great tutorial to start with then Mr. Mario Fuentes article is a good place to begin and would be worth a search. It’s a real keeper IMO.
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r67/pats_album/IMG_1025C.jpg)
Or you can check out the following website for the article at ……
http://www.vallejo.si/MCNavodila.html
If you’re new to figures and would like to learn using acrylics then this article will make it possible for you to produce a good painted figure first time out if you follow Mario’s direction. Now it doesn’t cover faces so you’re on your own there but you can find different approaches for that too on the web. In this project I’ll be winging it with faces but I’ll share my progress with you good or bad. Fingers crossed and I hope we’ll have some success there.
There are many ways to paint figures but this is how I’m going to go about this project but I’m open to any suggestions, recommendations, and comments from you all as we go along. I'll be happy to answer any question I can with my limited experience. I’m new at this, this being my second figure, and probably have less knowledge about painting figures than many of you.
From here on out I’ll try not to be so windy, just paint and show pictures of my progress or failures. ;D ;D ;D
Paddy :)
P.S. The highlights and shadows of the face on the cover of the magazine points up some of what we want to do with a face. In my case, since the pilot wears goggles, I think I've dodged a bullet. ;D ;D ;D
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IIRC, that figgy won a gold in the masters at SCAHMS in Los Angeles. Something to shoot for.
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........ snip
You may find this interesting?
http://www.militarymodelling.com/news/article.asp?a=4546 (http://www.militarymodelling.com/news/article.asp?a=4546)
Best regards,
Keith
Keith another very good spot for reference is TVAL’s Uniform section, leather coats, flying boots, helmet and goggles, etc. A great resource for authentic wear from the WWI period.
Paddy
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Thanks Paddy,
Nice progress on the flesh base coats.
I am familiar with the TVAL website as I am using it for reference for the FE.2b build which I have just got under way.
Thanks again,
Best Regards
Keith
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I just gotta try these Vallejo paints. I have a set on hand but have never cracked a single bottle open yet. Thanks for that link to the painting article.
Cheers,
Chris
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Thank you Paddy for your tutoril on the masking process!
I'll study it and I'll surely give it a try.
Did you draw the cross from scrath or did you photocopy an old decalsheet?
Ciao
Edo
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Thank you Paddy for your tutoril on the masking process!
I'll study it and I'll surely give it a try.
Did you draw the cross from scrath or did you photocopy an old decalsheet?
Ciao
Edo
You're very welcome Edo.
I traced the cross from the decal sheet of a WnW Albatros D.V that I have in my stash. ;D
Paddy
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Thanks very much Paddy for your great tutorial, every little bit of information is going to help once I get around to doing my figure. It is so good to have all the links to various articles, and to actually "watch" you painting your figure makes it so much easier, looking forward to seeing you progress with the painting.
Des.
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Thanks Paddy,
Nice progress on the flesh base coats.
I am familiar with the TVAL website as I am using it for reference for the FE.2b build which I have just got under way.
Thanks again,
Best Regards
Keith
Thanks Keith and I would have suspected you would be quite familiar with TVAL . :) I can surf around in there until I lose track of time.
I'll be looking forward to when you open the hanger doors on that FE.2b so we can get a peek at what I know will be a beauty. :)
Paddy
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I just gotta try these Vallejo paints. I have a set on hand but have never cracked a single bottle open yet. Thanks for that link to the painting article.
Cheers,
Chris
Your welcome Chris. I really like their paint and if you read Mario Fuentes' article before you start using them, even if not for a figure, it will give you an understanding of how they can be used and I think you'll appreciate them even more.
Paddy
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Thanks very much Paddy for your great tutorial, every little bit of information is going to help once I get around to doing my figure. It is so good to have all the links to various articles, and to actually "watch" you painting your figure makes it so much easier, looking forward to seeing you progress with the painting.
Des.
You're very welcome Des. I think you're going to enjoy your entry into historical miniatures especially when they support our primary love of the WWI kites. There's no doubt in my mind that you'll be good at it.
When I got a look at the first skin base coat today I decided it was much to dark. The fellow would look more like he had been stationed in North Africa with to much time at the beach than slogging around France. So, I’ll check my colours and see what I think may look better. I’ll shoot a photo so you all can get a look and let you know what Vallejo colour I decided on. This is all fun stuff and a big part of the fun to me is the learning.
Paddy
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Sir Paddy,
Please post a picture of the mask used or one made up ready for use.
A picture (in my case!) is worth a billion words :)
Cheers old bean,
Von Buckle
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Good looking model, good luck, perhaps you could in future have him standing in front of his aircraft...
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I’ve selected the colours I’ll now use for the skin tones on the face and hands. Applied one application of the new base flesh over the original flesh at this point. You’ll notice that I left his mustache as the first base colour and will use that as his hair colour since I kind of like it. Now we have a starting point IMO. It does look like I need to get the Mr Surfacer after some of the pin holes in the helmet before applying paint in that area, and no I’m not talking about those at the front of the helmet. I do believe those represent fur lining. ;) ;D ;D
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r67/pats_album/IMG_1029HO.jpg)
The following photo shows the selection of colours for skin I’ll now use, starting from your left, highlights then center is the base colour, and right is the shadows selection.
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r67/pats_album/IMG_1029.jpg)
Now, the rest of the day must be devoted to domestics……… bah humbug. I’ll try to comply with Lord Buckles’ request tomorrow. :)
Paddy
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Well between you and Des' mention of that 'Let's Go' miniature, now you have me thinking about trying my hand at painting one of these infernal figures again. I just came home from the LHS armed with Vallejo's #341, 342 and 343 as a starting point for a face, along with a bottle of their retarder, just in case. Now I'm off to order that figure.
Cheers,
Chris
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Even with the base coat done and no shadowing, the detailing on the face is great - can't wait to see you weave your magic on it Paddy!! ;)
Andrew
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Thanks Andrew. I'm hoping for some good magic on this project. ;D
Paddy
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Excellent colour for the skin tone Paddy, and the moustache looks very good also, boy, this is getting better and better and is giving me a lot of confidence.
Des.
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Excellent colour for the skin tone Paddy, and the moustache looks very good also, boy, this is getting better and better and is giving me a lot of confidence.
Des.
Thanks Des and I too like the new base colour much better. The previous darker skin drove me to the change in a hurry. ;D ;D ;D
It’s good to hear that your feel more confidence as we go along. Hope it will help others to consider giving figures a shot for the dioramas they would like to build. Your “Lets Go” is going to make a great addition to your aircraft scene one of these days.
Paddy
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Im off to buy Vallejo paint...think I spelled that wrong....
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Im off to buy Vallejo paint...think I spelled that wrong....
The spelling looks right. It’s the correct pronunciation that gets me. Do we have a figure lurking there Steve? ;)
I decided to post the following in the hopes that it would encourage those of you who have considered starting a figure project but hesitate. Most of you know more about colour and applying paint at a level I will never reach and I wanted to show you what you can expect to do or exceed the first time out using acrylics following Mario Fuentes article and being patient.
This was my first and preceding attempt and it was done following Mario’s tutorial and using Vallejo paint. If you can follow a cookbook you can accomplish what will be a very nice painted figure.
(This photo is of a resin figure I started with some time ago of a French Tank Commander of WWII.)
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r67/pats_album/DSCN1828modified.jpg)
(The following two photos are how I finished up the body.)
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r67/pats_album/IMG_0468.jpg) (http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r67/pats_album/IMG_0470.jpg)
Anyway, I wanted you to see what is possible without waiting for me to finish this project. But don’t go away, I enjoy your interest and hope I may make a contribution for you in some manner.
We have some grand WWI war in the air figures being released, and with fingers crossed, hopefully we’re going to see more in the near future.
It’s going to be fun to have Des, Chris and other members joining in and enjoying this part of our hobby too. After all, we need pilots, observers and ground crew for our machines. :D
You don’t need a magic decoder ring to learn, well maybe when you start doing the eyes. ::) ;D ;D ;D
Paddy
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I always wanted to put a figure with a model a/c to give it life. I just never seem to get around to it.
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It’s going to be fun to have Des, Chris and other members joining in and enjoying this part of our hobby too. After all, we need pilots, observers and ground crew for our machines. :D
You don’t need a magic decoder ring to learn, well maybe when you start doing the eyes. ::) ;D ;D ;D
You did a fine job with that French tanker's uniform Paddy!
Did I say that I ordered a figure?? Sometimes I talk too much and live to regret it. This could be one of those times. ;D
Cheers,
Chris
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Well between you and Des' mention of that 'Let's Go' miniature, now you have me thinking about trying my hand at painting one of these infernal figures again. I just came home from the LHS armed with Vallejo's #341, 342 and 343 as a starting point for a face, along with a bottle of their retarder, just in case. Now I'm off to order that figure.
Cheers,
Chris
Please check the above. ;D ;D ;D
You did a fine job with that French tanker's uniform Paddy!
Did I say that I ordered a figure?? Sometimes I talk too much and live to regret it. This could be one of those times. ;D
Cheers,
Chris
Thanks Chris.
Paddy :)
P.S. I'm afraid I fall into the shoot, ready aim catagory. :o
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looking splendid so far paddy. i have just finished my first figure. its the richthofen bust from the dml kit. the hardest part for me by far was being happy with the skin tone/shading. i had to remove the paint 4 times trying diff techniques. i tryed acrylics 2x oils once and ended up with enamels. i guess it turned out ok in the end cuz i one 1st place bust and 1st overall figure last month at my local ipms contest. i ended up getting the best results from doing an acrylic basecoat for the basic skin color and with a cup of thinner a 3-4 diff enamels melted on the shading. that way i got fairly smooth blending. i guess thats how i'll do it from now on.
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Congratulations Scott, great first effort! It sounds like you have found a good technique and paint for doing your skin and faces. There are a number of painters that will do the main part of the figure in acrylics and then switch to artist oils for face and hands. The enamels would give you the same sort of blending options I would think.
Thanks for stopping by and taking a peek at my effort and again “good show” on your work. That’s grand. :)
Paddy
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i guess it turned out ok in the end cuz i one 1st place bust and 1st overall figure last month at my local ipms contest.
Congratulations Scott! Very well done.
Cheers,
Chris
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Here you go Lord Buckles. ;) Hope I captured what you were looking for. Let me know if I succeeded and if not I’ll try again.
Here is the marking that I wish to duplicate taped to my small drafting board, which is a rectangle of porcelain tile.
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r67/pats_album/IMG_1030.jpg)
Using a couple of my old see through drafting tools, triangle for a straight edge, and a small French Curve, I trace my marking to the masking tape applied to wax paper and then secured over the tracing paper I used to make my original drawing.
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r67/pats_album/IMG_1031.jpg)
After transferring the marking to the masking tape I remove the wax paper with the masking tape and secure over a firm flat cardboard which will serve as my cutting mat. I then cutout free hand the marking using a new Excel #11 blade. Use only enough pressure to cut through the masking tape and wax paper in one pass.
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r67/pats_album/IMG_1032.jpg)
Now remove from the cutting mat leaving the marking mask still sticking to the wax paper. I’ll then apply it to the object by pulling back the wax paper a little at a time as I stick the mask to proper location, Albatros rudder in this case.
TTFN,
Paddy :)
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Hi Paddy,
Thanks for taking the time to post this up.
This seems to be the exact same method I used on reproducing the markings for my Pfalz DIII.
Great minds think alike ;D
Cheers old bean!
Von Buckle :)
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Hi Paddy,
Thanks for taking the time to post this up.
This seems to be the exact same method I used on reproducing the markings for my Pfalz DIII.
Great minds think alike ;D
Cheers old bean!
Von Buckle :)
Hi Robert,
It could well be that I read your procedure sometime back and it was just waiting to be used. I was surprised that the steps came to mind so quickly and worked out so well. That’s unusual for me so, I would say there’s a very good chance you planted the seed and in that case I owe you a bit of thanks. :)
Cheers old boy,
Paddy
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Always a pleasure, never a chore ;D
Keep going, friend ;)
Von Bobski
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In the following photos I’ve started to prepare those parts that will simulate leather. I decided to AB a sub-base of Tamiya XF-59 Desert Yellow before brushing on the first Vallejo base colour. I did mask the hands and trousers with Parafilm “M” before spraying. The trousers will receive a different sub-base colour.
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r67/pats_album/IMG_1033SBDY.jpg)
Photo #2 is of the parts after receiving their first base colour that was applied with a #4 shader, or flat brush. The base colour mix is -
75% Vallejo 70871 Leather Brown
25% Vallejo 70977 Desert Yellow
This mix was thinned 1 part paint to 2 parts water.
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r67/pats_album/IMG_1036.jpg)
One or two more base coats will be applied before starting to highlight and shadow the leather componets.
Paddy
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Nice work. The paint layers build up ok? I find even after drying acrils go soft with the next layer.
Steve
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Nice progress Paddy.
Best Regards
Keith
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Watching with interest Paddy!
Cheers,
Chris
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Coming together very nicely Paddy, I'm taking notice and keeping notes.
Des.
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Nice work. The paint layers build up ok? I find even after drying acrils go soft with the next layer.
Steve
Hi Steve,
Thanks for that.
Yes, the layers build up very nicely if you allow a little drying time between applications, and we’re not talking hours here, but more like ten or fifteen minutes. If you add a drying extender I understand it’s possible to do some minor blending. I’ve only used the layering technique, know as glazing in some circles, by varying the colour ratios, and dilution rates to achieve a transparent and gradual colour buildup with a single colour or mix allowing the undercoat to show through. Works great if followed. (Check out the tutorial in the Layer section).
Paddy :)
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Thanks very much to all of you for taking a look and your comments.
I’ve now decided its time to workout the assembling sequence before I get my tail in a crack. I did want at least one base coat applied to the jacket before the arms are mounted since areas under the arms maybe a little difficult to reach.
I’m going to use 30 minute epoxy for attaching the arms to give myself a little more time in positioning, especially the right arm and hand that will be holding the edge of the rudder. Also, I’m going to pin the rudder at the point it will rest on the base to allow for a solid but temporary mount for locating the right arm and hand. I’ll then be ready to return to the final putty work around the arm attach point, and start getting into the fun part of watching each application of paint start to bring the figure to life. During this period I’ll also return to the skin colour applications.
Time to get it in gear now and return to the shop. ;)
Paddy :)
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Something I want to mention that I find a big help is to use two hands when doing brush work. Rest your off hand on something stable, like your workbench, and cradle your brush hand in the off hand. It will give you real confidence in doing small details but also helps with base, highlights and shadow painting. Of course you’ll need something to hold your figure so rolling up a kitchen paper towel and taping will work.
Here I’m getting ready to apply filler to the seam between the arm and body after the 30 minute epoxy glue up.
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r67/pats_album/IMG_1038.jpg)
Paddy
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Excellent tips Paddy, the two handed approach is a good idea, this would give a very stable platform. You say you are going to use 30 minute epoxy for fixing the arms, is this the only type of glue, apart from CA, that will fix resin parts?
Des.
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If you're using two hands to paint, did you take the picture with your third and fourth hand? ;) I'm assuming you've got them to get such great detail. Great work!
Lindsay
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With all the paint and glue fumes ya just grow a third and fourth arm...
Steve
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Excellent tips Paddy, the two handed approach is a good idea, this would give a very stable platform. You say you are going to use 30 minute epoxy for fixing the arms, is this the only type of glue, apart from CA, that will fix resin parts?
Des.
Des,
The two glues I read about most often in the figure arena is epoxy and ca with epoxy being the first choice with white metal, except for small parts that are light weight pieces.
Recently I started using ca + in my Dr.1 project attaching the photo-etch plywood sheet borders to sheet plastic and had very good success with it holding when bent verses the thin ca. Now, this leads me to believe that if working with white metal it maybe an acceptable choice for me if the piece is not to heavy or will be pinned.
For resin figures I’m thinking of using ca + as long as it is used sparingly to prevent any squeeze out on joints unless intentional for some reason. Also, I’m thinking of trying white glue, I’ll test first of course, by spreading a thing layer on each part before pressing together. If that works it seems it would be a good choice especially if you needed to remove the part for some reason before painting. A little soak of the components in water and they may come apart with out any problem. Just a thought.
Oh, yes, I did use 30 minute epoxy for gluing the first arm to the jacket body.
@ Lindsay & Steve
;D ;D ;D
The extra arms are call a camera set to timer release, 10 seconds, and mounted on a tripod. ;)
Paddy :)
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Still thinking the best way for me to bring the figure together is to now paint the trousers and boot piece. The Jacket fits down over the trousers far enough that I think it will cause come interference doing the finish painting, so gluing up the two pieces now would be a hindrance.
As you can see I’ve started painting the lower half of the figure and I’m not happy with the colour of the trouser base I chose and will be changing that. There are three coats of a cork brown base on and its just not cutting it for me. Is easy to make the change now, just adds a small amount of time to the effort.
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r67/pats_album/IMG_1042.jpg)
When the trouser piece is finished I’ll then be able to attach the body and then position the right arm for gluing to hold the rudder. I’ve cut a 2” square of cherry wood to serve as the base and it’s been drilled to hold the pinned figure and pinned rudder in position while I glue the arm in place. Since the body and rudder are pinned separate I’ll then be able to lift the pieces from the base for the final painting and detailing. ( I just need to remember not to glue the hand to the rudder. :-[ )
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r67/pats_album/IMG_1047.jpg)
I’m having a ball with this, both mags still holding within RPM limits, but I’ve probably put those of you that were still looking off to slumber land by now. ;D
Paddy :)
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I’m having a ball with this, both mags still holding within RPM limits, but I’ve probably put those of you that were still looking off to slumber land by now. ;D
Take your time paddy. I'm soaking it all in, waiting for 'Lets Go' to arrive in the mail.
Cheers,
Chris
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these boots were made for flying.....
Steve
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these boots were made for flying.....
Steve
;D ;D ;D ::)
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All the base colours have now been applied to the lower end, that is except the yellow pencil tucked into the boot with the note pad........ doh!
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r67/pats_album/IMG_1062b.jpg)
There will be some touch-up necessary but not to worry until we have first done the highlighting and then the shadowing plus details like buckles, etc. After that comes outlining, and edging. But possibly before that you may like to do some toning depending on how the over all figure looks to you in order to soften harsh contrasts. (Please see the online tutorial by Mario Fuentes for the explanations of the above procedures. They’re short. ;) )
After we finish up the breeches end of the figure then we’ll start final assembly of the upper torso to the lower end so we can start the final painting. All of the above steps are fun to do IMO and I’ll post more photos as we go.
Paddy :)
P.S. The new trouser colour hits one in the eye. 8) Looking back I now like the colour I had before the new selection. I maybe changing again. :-\ :-\ :-\
Back to the drawing board.
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The pants are very" mustardy". How about a bit of green to that colour? It is looking good though!!
Steve
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The pants are very" mustardy". How about a bit of green to that colour? It is looking good though!!
Steve
Well, if I’d gone with the colour sheet there would have been some green in the trouser colour. It called for Khaki which has a touch of green in it, but no I just had to go off and mess in my nest. I feel a mission coming on and attacking with either the Buff colour I had before or going with the Mfg’s call out of Khaki. I’m terrible with picking colours and know that I should stick with the cookbook. You would think at my tender age I would have learned that by now. ::) That’s one of the things about seeing your work on the tube. It’s a great critic and does not pull punches. :-[
Thanks for taking a look Steve and your thought.
Paddy :)
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Really nice progress Paddy.
Best Regards
Keith
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Really nice progress Paddy.
Best Regards
Keith
Thanks for that Keith.
I've now changed the trouser colour for the third time and I'm happier now. :D I'll post another photo when I make a little more progress in that area.
Paddy
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Looking very good Paddy, I'm interested to see what your final colour is for the trousers. I actually liked the colour you used in post #68, but you have a much better idea of what the colour is supposed to look like.
Des.
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This is looking really good now Paddy, a source of inspiration when I start doing my mechanic.
Cheers
Pete.
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Looking very good Paddy, I'm interested to see what your final colour is for the trousers. I actually liked the colour you used in post #68, but you have a much better idea of what the colour is supposed to look like.
Des.
Thanks Des. That was Vallejo’s cork brown and when looking back I too like the way it looked in the photo. But, when I was studying it on the bench I just wasn’t happy for some reason....... Doh? :-\
Now, as far as what the colour should look like, is like asking a gent if he can see anything outside from the inside of his hood closed Link trainer, as he spins to earth. It’s a stab in the dark for me. ;D ;D ;D
Paddy :)
P.S. That cork brown does have good possibilities for a certain Hille Miniaturen. :)
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Thanks Pete.
The Mechanic is just what the doctor ordered. Looking forward to getting a peek at him with the Albatros. I have no doubt that it’s going to be a great scene. "Thumbs up mate"! :)
Paddy
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Finally I’ve settled on the colour for the chap’s trousers after three changes. :o :P The colours used are all Vallejo.
Base 70988 Khaki
Highlight 70976 Buff
Shadow 70941 Burnt Umber
Here’s some views of the old boy and as you can see he’s a bit to the gloss side at this point
but I’ll be adding a varnish coat to reduce that a little later.
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r67/pats_album/IMG_1069c.jpg)
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r67/pats_album/IMG_1071c.jpg)
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r67/pats_album/IMG_1073c.jpg)
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r67/pats_album/IMG_1075c.jpg)
I’m now ready to attach the upper body and then position his right arm and hand for holding the rudder.
Any questions or comments are always welcome. :)
Paddy
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Nice Progress Paddy,
The trousers look much better in those tones.
Keep up the good work.
Best Regards
Keith
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Thanks Keith. I was beginning to feel that the trousers had turned into a career.
I’m anxious to get after the jacket area now.
Paddy
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As mentioned the trouser colour looks good and it is an excellent combination with the boot colour.
Steve
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Thanks for that Steve. I thought I was going to wear out a brush on those breeches. ;D
It's good to move onto the upper half now. :)
Paddy
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Well Paddy, the bottom half looks excellent, your colour choice is spot on with a great contrast between trousers and boots, I'm now looking forward to see what the top half turns out like, thanks for this superb tutorial.
Des.
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Nice job Paddy. Please tell me this isn't your first figure painting job! ;D
Cheers,
Chris
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Well Paddy, the bottom half looks excellent, your colour choice is spot on with a great contrast between trousers and boots, I'm now looking forward to see what the top half turns out like, thanks for this superb tutorial.
Des.
Thanks for that Des and you're very welcome. I do hope it maybe of some help to someone. It's a fun part of our hobby and hope others get interested enough to give it a go too. :)
Paddy
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Nice job Paddy. Please tell me this isn't your first figure painting job! ;D
Cheers,
Chris
Thanks Chris. Now for the rest of the story which I’m sure you wanted to hear. ;) No it’s my second, that is since I got started modeling again, which was about four years ago. I made two figure attempts in early 1970 and I was not pleased. Thought I would like to try it again one day though. So, this makes my fourth attempt. ;D
Finding and using Mario Fuentes tutorial made me think that I could learn and maybe improve if I kept trying. So, I can not recommend the tutorial enough for a beginner if one will just have the patience and give it a go. He really did a great service for all of us who wanted to try just as Des has with all those wonderful tutorials he shares with us on his website.
Paddy :)
P.S. I still have those two original figures, one is of the Freiherr von Richthofen, which IMO is the best small sculpture of Manfred I have ever seen to this day. The other one is of a German fighter pilot in WWII. They came from a grand hobby shop in North Hollywood, California those many years ago. Ah, there were some grand walk-in shops in those days.
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Nice job on the lower half Paddy, keep it going.
Cheers
Pete.
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Paddy,
That shop wasn't Valley Plaza was it?
Jim
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Nice job on the lower half Paddy, keep it going.
Cheers
Pete.
Thanks for that Pete. I'll try not to make a public mess in my nest if I can help it. ;D
Paddy
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Paddy,
That shop wasn't Valley Plaza was it?
Jim
That sure sounds familiar and maybe it Jim. If I remember correctly, when I first learned of them, they were in a corner store, not to large and sort of long and narrow. Man, they had some neat stuff. It was quite a trip up there on weekends from the South Bay area. I lived near the San Pedro harbor at the time. I guess technically that's considered the Los Angeles Harbor.
Paddy
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Looking really good Paddy! Are you using Acrylics? Nice look to the shoes/boots.
RAGIII
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Paddy,
Excellent work to date my old friend. Your chosen colors look perfect to me. I'm looking forward to seeing the figure in total and the next update too.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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Looking really good Paddy! Are you using Acrylics? Nice look to the shoes/boots.
RAGIII
Hi Rick, glad you dropped by and thanks for that. Yes the paints are acrylics, the beginning sub-base color was Tamiya airbrushed on and from there I've been brushing with acrylic Vallejo Model Color.
Paddy
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Paddy,
Excellent work to date my old friend. Your chosen colors look perfect to me. I'm looking forward to seeing the figure in total and the next update too.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
Thanks Gregory. I has beginning to think I'd have to put a brown paper bag over those trousers. ;)
Paddy :)
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First step in assembling the figure was accomplished by pinning the two body parts together with a 1.57mm by 20mm brass pin. Approximately 10mm of the pin was glued into each half of the figure with CA+. Next step will be attaching the right arm in position and then back to painting.
The colour of the pilot’s jacket you see here is the primary base colour which has been brush applied over an airbrushed Tamiya sub-base.
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r67/pats_album/IMG_1076.jpg)
I want to point out an issue that I’m having that I believe is directly associated with the primer I used which was Alclad II Gray Primer & Microfiller. Don’t ask me why I did that because I’m still scratching my head over that one……. doh! If not careful in the handling of the figure now there has been some paint chipping. For me personally and especially with a white metal figure I will not be going there again. :P I shall be returning to good old Tamiya’s Gray Surface Primer for plastic or metal in the rattle can that is available within a short drive and has always been a solid performer for me.
The white metal figure parts had been scrubbed with a toothbrush using dish washing liquid, rinsed in warm water and allowed to air dry before applying the Alclad primer. This has been the only annoying part of this project. So, now some extra touch-up has become part of the work. ::)
Off my soap box now….. at least for now.
Paddy :)
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Looks great. Are you going to dry run the tail in while you glue in the arm? I use auto primer but we work with what works best!!!
Steve
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Looks great. Are you going to dry run the tail in while you glue in the arm? I use auto primer but we work with what works best!!!
Steve
Thanks Steve and you're right on. The rudder will be temporarily pinned to the base to get the correct setting for the right arm and hand. By the way, the figure has not been glued to the base at this point and is removable.
Paddy
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Wow, this is looking nice. I have several Model Cellar figs I'd like to assemble and paint one of these days, perhaps I'll pick up some good pointers.
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Thanks for that Kevin. Yes, those Model Celler figures are nice. Have a few of those in the stash myself. :)
Paddy
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Looks superb, Paddy. :o
You're doing a great job.
BVB
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Just so I understand Paddy; you airbrushed a shade of Tamiya brown and then used a brush to lay in the base colour? I ask, because I'm seeing a very effective (and subtle I might add) contrast between the two shades of brown. It looks exactly like a well worn, discoloured leather jacket to me, just as it stands. This paint job looks very, very realistic!
Do you have any closeups of the jacket? This is something I'd like to try to replicate.
Cheers,
Chris
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Looks superb, Paddy. :o
You're doing a great job.
BVB
Thank you very much for that Lord Buckles. The nice things you chaps have been posting really
help to keep the old fire going. :)
Paddy
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Just so I understand Paddy; you airbrushed a shade of Tamiya brown and then used a brush to lay in the base colour? I ask, because I'm seeing a very effective (and subtle I might add) contrast between the two shades of brown. It looks exactly like a well worn, discoloured leather jacket to me, just as it stands. This paint job looks very, very realistic!
Do you have any closeups of the jacket? This is something I'd like to try to replicate.
Cheers,
Chris
Thanks for that Chris.
The jacket only has the first base layer of Vallejo 871 Leather Brown brushed on over the top of the sub-base of airbrush applied Tamiya XF-59 Desert Yellow. There will be two more layers of Leather Brown applied to even out the base coat and then start the highlights and shadows. Let me get the right arm attached and those segments done first if you don’t mind and then we’ll get a close up of the jacket if you like. The jacket is on the rough side (spotty as in take a look at the left shoulder area which is very dark) as it now stands although it does give the beginning of a worn appearance as you describe and that’s what we’re in hopes of accomplishing.
The airbrushing of a sub-base with a different tone as noted above helps give the brushed colour a subtle boost that you can control with the number of base coats you brush on and the amount of thinning you use in them. The neat thing, at least as I’ve experienced, is the surprise you get as you brush the first base coat over the airbrushed sub-base and to this point has always been pleasing making you feel that you have bumped into something quite unique. :) Fun stuff.
Cheers,
Paddy
P.S. Someone trained as an artist would probably be rolling on the floor by now after reading this.
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Hi Paddy,
Really nice work again with the figure. it is really starting to come together now.
With regards to the Alclad primers they have not had a great press. A lot of people complain that they will not set properly, perhaps this is what you are experiencing?
Do you know if this figure is still available anywhere? I have been trying to track one down for my collection, but have not had any luck yet.
I'm looking forward to seeing the next phases.
Best Regards
Keith
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Keith, sometime back I had found one on e-Bay and almost bid on it. Wish I had now. I’ve just returned from a new search and not getting any hits but I’ll keep trying and if I do find one I’ll send you a PM. I’ve even check the dealer I purchased mine from but he doesn’t list it anymore. I’ll get an e-mail off to him and also post a note on a figure forum that I log into on occasion.
Thanks again for your input. I appreciate it.
Paddy
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Paddy thanks very much.
Best Regards
Keith
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When you think about it Paddy, his leather jacket would be patchy, covered in castor oil and dust and grime.
Cheers
Pete.
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Dear all !
Over here in the Bavarian Army Museum at Audi-Town Ingolstadt there is an annual contest on figure painting
called "Duke of Bavaria" (Napoleon I made the Wittelsbachers kings not until 1806...).
They show figures painted by masters a la Sheperd Paine , too.
It is very revealing to see those live and one literally falls to one's knees...
The most important thing in painting to modelers is the re-creation of texture. In our digitalized world dozens of people
in movie production are specialized in creating texture via computer.
It is demanding to succeed in showing surfaces according to the material they are made of: leather, cloth, metal etc. .
This may be more important than closing in on they exact hue.
As we all have noticed day in - day out: we are able to judge the material from surface reflection, we feel it much more than
we actually see it.
Uniforms are a matt theme and they are worn out by washing and sun rays.
Often one notices figures (in diorama / vignette photos) with a sheen . That is no good. Looks like plastic toy soldiers.
As I experimented with Tamiya acrylics I once put in to the colour a good dose of matt base.
This almost does what in the heyday of Punk music was done to jeans with toilet cleaners.
But without an overdose gives a nice worn out and deadly matt surface.
Shades are made by pre-painting the figure in a darker hue of a different but matching colour or by the same but darker hue.
So you can even use your trusty airbrush with uniform painting.
With Humbrol enamels one gets a deadly matt look by taking paint out of the can with a toothstick and thinning it with petrol
/gas that you use for cigarette lighters.
If you paint , for example boots matt black with enamels, you may polish them afterward with a Q-tip to get a sheen.
This can be done with other leather items or metal items, too , like a canteen or a barrel of a carbine.
But the hardest part always is human skin.
A painter ofte uses a blue priming under skin colour (veins) - didn't test it yet.
viele Grüße, Gunther
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Messieurs !
What I forgot ot mention: the vignette is an eye-catcher.
The story immediately unfolds.
Gunther