Roden SPAD VII 19 Sq. RFC 1/32nd scale:SPAD VII Lafayette:Nieuport 28 94th Aero

[hrcoleman66]

Ooopphh - Rigging...

Kent

For a change I actually found it to be fun drilling these holes. It means I will be able to use more conventional rigging methods on this one.... A real pleasure after so many SPADs 
RAGIII

PS: All holes drilled without breaking a bit 

I find that Rodens plastic drills very easily.  I spend a happy half hour on Monday evening drilling all the rigging holes in the main planes of the Roden BE12.  And that's a two bay biplane with doubled flying wires!  All with one 1/64" HSS drill bit (I find HSS to be far more forgiving than Carbide).

Cheers,

Hugh

[Borsos]

I actually didn’t realize that your 2nd Spad turned into a Nieuport. How did that happen? Did it loose its skin like a snake or was it more like transformers do...?
However, both look great!
Andreas

[bobs_buckles]

Looking forward to seeing more work on the 28 Rick.
 

vB

[RAGIII]

That just might work Rick . The spacing between the wires is relative to 48 scale . A thick base of the liquid of choice should work . Microscale crystal clear comes to mind .

Making nice progress with this one and that is a lot of holes !


Alexis

Thanks Alexis.
RAGIII

Ooopphh - Rigging...

Kent

For a change I actually found it to be fun drilling these holes. It means I will be able to use more conventional rigging methods on this one.... A real pleasure after so many SPADs 
RAGIII

PS: All holes drilled without breaking a bit 

I find that Rodens plastic drills very easily.  I spend a happy half hour on Monday evening drilling all the rigging holes in the main planes of the Roden BE12.  And that's a two bay biplane with doubled flying wires!  All with one 1/64" HSS drill bit (I find HSS to be far more forgiving than Carbide).

Cheers,

Hugh

Hugh, the Roden plastic does lend itself to easier drilling. I use cheap bits from EXCELL so it is a miracle when I don't break one 
RAGIII

I actually didn’t realize that your 2nd Spad turned into a Nieuport. How did that happen? Did it loose its skin like a snake or was it more like transformers do...?
However, both look great!
Andreas

No Strange goings on here. Just look at page 10 and all will be revealed 
RAGIII

Looking forward to seeing more work on the 28 Rick.
 

vB

Thanks Bob! The SPAD is almost done. Just some touch up and the final clear coats left.






The Nieuport is primed and ready for paint. ( I will be using the Aviattic Cowling)









RAGIII

[RAGIII]

The SPA 124 Lafayette bird is now finished. Touch up and final weathering have been done. I will begin painting the Nieuport later today or tomorrow!
RAGIII









Final Photos in Completed Models:
https://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=11996.0

[Mike Norris]

Here is a question for Mike Norris, or anyone else. Looking forward in the build I see that two methods were used by Mike for the filled rigging lines. On the Nieuport 28 build Mike used thin styrene superglued in place. On the Ansaldo He used Baking Parchment Paper. would both methods work on the 28? which would be easier for someone not quite as talented? TIA,
RAGIII
PS: I do Not use Turnbuckles and tubing so the filler will be applied After the Mono Lines are tightened!

Hi Rich,
I did try using decal for the infill and I think it was Lance who did this successfully.
However I found it didn't work for me.
As for styrene infill strip versus baking parchment paper?
I used these methods on the two models after the rigging with turnbuckles had been fitted and tightened.
The stryrene strip method was OK although thin cut strips of sytrene can tend to curl, which makes aligning them between the lines a bit tricky.
They need to be fitted between the two lines and aligned whilst applying thin CA adhesive along the edges of the strips, although thin CA adhesive flows nicely along the lines.
However they do make for a stronger pair of lines. Painting them is also not really a problem.
Using baking parchment paper is I think easier as the strip are cut to twice the width of the pair of lines.
PVA adhesive is then applied along the lines and the paper rested on top.
More PVA is applied by brush brushing the paper around the lines.
Once the adhesive has fully dried and set you can apply more adhesive to strengthen the bond.
The only disadvantage is that unlike the styrene strips, which sit between the two lines (as it was in reality) the paper wraps around and covers the lines.
Also one side will be slightly sunken as the adhesive draws it up onto the underside of the opposite side.
However, this depression can be negated by applying more adhesive to that side or infilling with the paint used.

As I proved the styrene will work for the Nieuport 28 twin wires, but in all honesty, if I did another 28 I think I'd go for the paper method.
Overall it's easier and quicker,

Mike

PS:  Yes the Special Hobby kits are made of a softer styrene that most kits which is why it's easier to drill.

[RAGIII]

Here is a question for Mike Norris, or anyone else. Looking forward in the build I see that two methods were used by Mike for the filled rigging lines. On the Nieuport 28 build Mike used thin styrene superglued in place. On the Ansaldo He used Baking Parchment Paper. would both methods work on the 28? which would be easier for someone not quite as talented? TIA,
RAGIII
PS: I do Not use Turnbuckles and tubing so the filler will be applied After the Mono Lines are tightened!

Hi Rich,
I did try using decal for the infill and I think it was Lance who did this successfully.
However I found it didn't work for me.
As for styrene infill strip versus baking parchment paper?
I used these methods on the two models after the rigging with turnbuckles had been fitted and tightened.
The stryrene strip method was OK although thin cut strips of sytrene can tend to curl, which makes aligning them between the lines a bit tricky.
They need to be fitted between the two lines and aligned whilst applying thin CA adhesive along the edges of the strips, although thin CA adhesive flows nicely along the lines.
However they do make for a stronger pair of lines. Painting them is also not really a problem.
Using baking parchment paper is I think easier as the strip are cut to twice the width of the pair of lines.
PVA adhesive is then applied along the lines and the paper rested on top.
More PVA is applied by brush brushing the paper around the lines.
Once the adhesive has fully dried and set you can apply more adhesive to strengthen the bond.
The only disadvantage is that unlike the styrene strips, which sit between the two lines (as it was in reality) the paper wraps around and covers the lines.
Also one side will be slightly sunken as the adhesive draws it up onto the underside of the opposite side.
However, this depression can be negated by applying more adhesive to that side or infilling with the paint used.

As I proved the styrene will work for the Nieuport 28 twin wires, but in all honesty, if I did another 28 I think I'd go for the paper method.
Overall it's easier and quicker,

Mike

PS:  Yes the Special Hobby kits are made of a softer styrene that most kits which is why it's easier to drill.

Mike, Thanks for the very detailed answer. I greatly appreciate your input and I am sure others will also! Still deciding which way to go but the paper is sounding good 
RAGIII

[lcarroll]

Rick (and Mike)
   I did use the decal infill on the Roden Nieuport 28. That was some time ago however it worked very well and is still looking as good today as the day it was done . I believe the reason it works is that I used surplus Aviattic Lozenge decal stock. As we all know it is much thicker/stronger then regular decal material and definitely more "robust" and thus appears more suited to this application. It also "curls" really well when given a shot of decal softener. The Photo Bucket photos on the Build Log here are still useable and the technique illustrated. I wouldn't hesitate to use this method again.

https://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=3716.105

Cheers,
Lance

[RAGIII]

Rick (and Mike)
   I did use the decal infill on the Roden Nieuport 28. That was some time ago however it worked very well and is still looking as good today as the day it was done . I believe the reason it works is that I used surplus Aviattic Lozenge decal stock. As we all know it is much thicker/stronger then regular decal material and definitely more "robust" and thus appears more suited to this application. It also "curls" really well when given a shot of decal softener. The Photo Bucket photos on the Build Log here are still useable and the technique illustrated. I wouldn't hesitate to use this method again.

https://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=3716.105

Cheers,
Lance

Thanks for posting the link Lance. Was this the regular "Clear Paper" Lozenge or white backed?
RAGIII

[lcarroll]

I'm not 100% certain Rick but I think the white background version. I've never noticed any difference in consistency between the white and clear versions.
Cheers,
Lance

[RAGIII]

I'm not 100% certain Rick but I think the white background version. I've never noticed any difference in consistency between the white and clear versions.
Cheers,
Lance

Thanks again Lance. I have never had any of the white backed Aviattic decals so I wasn't sure if there would be a difference 
RAGIII

[Mike Norris]

Hi Rich, Don't forget 'Aviattic' have plain coloured white back and clear decal - maybe try white back coloured as any overlap won't show as darker than the rest. Alcso you may not need to paint the decal if you choose the correct colour,

Mike

[RAGIII]

Hi Rich, Don't forget 'Aviattic' have plain coloured white back and clear decal - maybe try white back coloured as any overlap won't show as darker than the rest. Alcso you may not need to paint the decal if you choose the correct colour,

Mike

Thanks for the reminder Mike. I haven't decided on the method yet so providing I actually get to that step we shall see what I choose 
RAGIII

[Bughunter]

The Nieuport is primed and ready for paint.

Oh Rick, I will watch this!
Please mention the color shades/mixes you are using, because I have not painted this french schemes yet and need some input for future projects.

Thanks and have fun!
Frank

[RAGIII]

The Nieuport is primed and ready for paint.

Oh Rick, I will watch this!
Please mention the color shades/mixes you are using, because I have not painted this french schemes yet and need some input for future projects.

Thanks and have fun!
Frank

OOPS    More later Frank!
RAGIII