Roden 1:32 Fokker DR.1 425/17 Manfred von Richthofen

[William Adair]

Impressive!  The new prop looks beautiful.  Congratulations in capturing the shape so well.

[lone modeller]

First class prop Lance - you have replicated the shape beautifully.

Just a comment about carving props: as you know I make them in the True Scale and this Brobdignagian scale, but I only use files and sandpaper. This avoids any risk of cutting off too much, (and having to start again), and getting blood all over the article and suffering pain in the fingers. Surprisingly I can file something more rapidly than carving, and the hardness of the wood does not matter either. Just for info for anyone who is reading this thread. However they are made, real wood propellors always look better.

Stephen.

[rhallinger]

My thanks to both Lance and Stephen for sharing their wooden prop fabricating tips, and I appreciate Stephen's nod to safety--I would likely slice of a bit of digit with a blade, and it would not be the first time!    Very helpful gentlemen.

Carry on Lance.  She's a fine-looking Dreidecker, and certainly an icon of WWI aviation.  I am looking forward to that stained prop.

Best, 

Bob

[lcarroll]

   Thank you all for your kind comments. Stephen, I agree, a wooden prop is hard to beat!
   I've just determined that I need to take a small step backwards on this; I had been undecided on how to handle the serials and weight data markings on the fuselage sides. Just this morning i was able to find the notes for the Cutting Edge Decals sheet for this aircraft on line and it is very clear that the Serials were over sprayed but still partially visible and, along with a photo I should have noticed sooner, the weights table is not visible. I have a healthy respect for this company's products and the quality of their research. I am going to do a bit of spraying to match that before going any further. It should be an easy fix, wish me luck!
Cheers,
Lance

[Bughunter]

Lance, fantastic Dreidecker and a beautiful AXIAL prop! The wood colors are wonderful, will look great varnished.
The Alaskan Yellow Cedar seems to be nice, (but I was not able to find it in Europe).

Just a comment about carving props: as you know I make them in the True Scale and this Brobdignagian scale, but I only use files and sandpaper. This avoids any risk of cutting off too much, (and having to start again), and getting blood all over the article and suffering pain in the fingers.

Oh yes Stephen! I use also those medical scalpel knifes, but I have a deep respect! So I use them NOT for carving, but sandpaper. Ok, my airscrews are smaller, so much less needs to be removed.

Cheers,
Frank

[RAGIII]

   Thank you all for your kind comments. Stephen, I agree, a wooden prop is hard to beat!
   I've just determined that I need to take a small step backwards on this; I had been undecided on how to handle the serials and weight data markings on the fuselage sides. Just this morning i was able to find the notes for the Cutting Edge Decals sheet for this aircraft on line and it is very clear that the Serials were over sprayed but still partially visible and, along with a photo I should have noticed sooner, the weights table is not visible. I have a healthy respect for this company's products and the quality of their research. I am going to do a bit of spraying to match that before going any further. It should be an easy fix, wish me luck!
Cheers,
Lance

Glad to hear that you caught these details before it was too late Lance! Looking forward to the overspray!
RAGIII

[hrcoleman66]

Beautiful Prop!

Cheers,

Hugh

[lcarroll]

  Thank you for your comments, glad you appreciate the prop!

Frank,
   This supplier has a great selection of this Alaskan yellow cedar but unfortunately no longer sells pear wood. You seem to have little difficulty finding pear in Europe so this link may be helpful; he has great service and very reasonable prices.

https://syrenshipmodelcompany.com/milled-lumber.php

   It gets harder all the time to find such products, a vanishing art I suppose. Just viewing the ships on his site is a pleasure in itself!
Cheers.
Lance

[fredjocko]

That prop looks incredible! Where do you get wood that thin and how do you glue it together. I had to make a butcher block cutting board in 8th grade shop class and lets just say it was kind of square...

[lcarroll]

That prop looks incredible! Where do you get wood that thin and how do you glue it together. I had to make a butcher block cutting board in 8th grade shop class and lets just say it was kind of square...

   I have a package of assorted veneer samples from this Canadian Company that works although only part of the assortment is suitable as you want a nice tight close grain to work with. It's thickness varies but is generally 1/16 inch or less.

https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca

 I far prefer the sheets from this company however they don't sell any of the darker pear wood presently.

https://syrenshipmodelcompany.com/milled-lumber.php

    I use  a good quality carpenters wood glue (the white or yellow liquid stuff is just fine) You can check out the methods here; it's a little dated but the basics are all there.

https://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=282.60

    Several of our members have also contributed to this little tutorial.

 I don't use powered sanding tools anymore, preferring to just hand carve and sand the props.
Cheers,
Lance


I'd say most fine wood work supply shops would be able to provide you with assorted veneers

[fredjocko]

That prop looks incredible! Where do you get wood that thin and how do you glue it together. I had to make a butcher block cutting board in 8th grade shop class and lets just say it was kind of square...

   I have a package of assorted veneer samples from this Canadian Company that works although only part of the assortment is suitable as you want a nice tight close grain to work with. It's thickness varies but is generally 1/16 inch or less.

https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca

 I far prefer the sheets from this company however they don't sell any of the darker pear wood presently.

https://syrenshipmodelcompany.com/milled-lumber.php

    I use  a good quality carpenters wood glue (the white or yellow liquid stuff is just fine) You can check out the methods here; it's a little dated but the basics are all there.

https://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=282.60

    Several of our members have also contributed to this little tutorial.

 I don't use powered sanding tools anymore, preferring to just hand carve and sand the props.
Cheers,
Lance


I'd say most fine wood work supply shops would be able to provide you with assorted veneers

Thank you so much. Very interesting info and maybe I can do this.

[lcarroll]

    A bit more progress to report; the prop is stained, varnished and has it's Axial logos and hub, just a semi gloss finish coat remaining.





    I finally did the well known badly chipped paint section from seat belt buckle wear on the port side. The overall light wash of brown has also been completed, it's actually a bit more apparent in real view and the last impression of bright "Fire Engine Red" is gone. I'm quite happy with the effect. As indicated earlier I removed the Datum Line and Weights Table per the real aircraft and partially over-sprayed the Serial Number.







    Next is completion of the guns and landing gear assembly along with a bit of main component assembly.

Cheers,
Lance

[gedmundson]

Looking great, Lance. I love the scratched paintwork by the cockpit which is absolutely necessary to depict this aircraft authentically 
Cheers,
Gary

[RAGIII]

Once again that Prop is AMAZING! Your chipped paint around the cockpit and overpainted serial number look outstanding! A Proper 425/17 indeed!
RAGIII

PS: The wash was quite effective in toning down the red. Well done!

[lcarroll]

Thanks Gary and Rick. I should have mentioned that the mid Wing is obviously posed for the photos as are the prop and engine. I have run into another minor hiccup, my Aviattic cowling doesn't fit very well so some fiddling will be required. As long as steps forward equal or outnumber those backwards all's still good!
Cheers,
Lance