Airbrush recommendations

[Jim52]

I would suggest that, as Dekenba states, you use an old model to test your settings.
The cardboard will absorb the paint while plastic won't and will give a truer result of
your settings.

Jim

[Des]

I agree with everything Bo has said, it is all good advice.

When I first started using an air brush, only three years ago, I was hopeless at it, everything went wrong and I was just about ready to toss it in the bin along with the compressor. I decided to spend a lot of time just playing around with settings and paint/thinner mix. I use primarily Humbrol enamels so I workrd out I needed to add at least 50 - 60% thinners to the paint (I use lacquer thinners) and then set my pressure to 25psi, it worked perfectly. As Bo said, the speed at which you move across the work is critical as is the distance from the job, this takes quite a bit of practice. When spraying acrylics, I use Gunze, I thin this paint with lacquer thinners also, it only requires a tiny amount as the paint is already pretty thin, I use the same pressure setting.

Don't try to achieve a complete coverage in one pass. this will result in runs, sags, puddles. Several light coats is always the way to go, if using enamels I will do a light coat then wait a few minutes, then do it again, I keep repeating this until I get the desired coverage, same applies with acrylics except I don't have to wait very long between coats. Lots of practice will get the results you are looking for.

Hang in there, you will get the feel of it in no time, be prepared to waste a bit of paint and thinners while you sort things out and keep away from your model until you have it perfected. You will find in a very short time that you will be using your air brush more and more, they are a great tool.

Des.

[uncletony]

I threw this illustration together in the hopes that a picture is worth a thousand words...

1 (top): paint spray emits from the airbrush in a cone-shaped pattern. The density of the spray is reduced with distance, as the diameter of the spray pattern increases.

Remember as the paint travels away from the airbrush it is beginning to dry. Dry spray is another word for dust. Sometimes this is a useful effect, other times it is not at all what you want. Controlling this depends on temperature / humidity and the type of paint and solvents you are using. Tamiya acrylics dry very quickly, more so thinned with lacquer thinner.  Enamels thinned with mineral spirits dry fairly slowly. Experiment until you are comfortable with with your chosen medium! Retarders are available for acrylics to slow down the drying, as are driers for oil-based paint...

Note that the geometry of the cone on many airbrushes is not adjustable. On some airbrushes you can swapp the needle valve and tip to change the angle of the cone, thus optimizing the airbrush for tight or broad work as needed.

Instead, adjusting the pressure and flow control the volume and density of the spray. Generally speaking you'll want to increase pressure and flow for broad coverage, reduce for fine coverage. Experiment to see what works best with your equipment and media.

2: If the airbrush is sprayed at an oblique angle to the work, the droplets will hit the workpiece in varying densities, too dense in the front and not dense enough at the back. This can cause problems like runs and dry spray.

3-5: the coverage area is adjusted by the distance the airbrush is held from the work. Note that in order to get the desired density, you will need to adjust the flow and/or pressure to suit. Note also that at greater distances, the edges will be increasingly softer. Thus, to do camoflage freehand with a scale not-too-soft edge, you may have to paint the outlines at a relatively close distance, then backfill.

[N.C.S.E]

Thanks for the help everyone, after I wrote the post I gave it a shot with oil paints thinned with turps. Maybe it was because i was using a colour other then white, but I'm pretty impressed with how I've gone with it so far. There's still intermittant problems, but I'm slowly learning to work around them and I'm very impressed with how its gone. For a start, the colour is much flatter then what I could dream of doing with brushes, so that's a bonus. I think I might crack open a revell 1/72 albatros to practise with that before returning to my Gotha though.

[Dekenba]

Thanks for the help everyone, after I wrote the post I gave it a shot with oil paints thinned with turps. Maybe it was because i was using a colour other then white, but I'm pretty impressed with how I've gone with it so far. There's still intermittant problems, but I'm slowly learning to work around them and I'm very impressed with how its gone. For a start, the colour is much flatter then what I could dream of doing with brushes, so that's a bonus. I think I might crack open a revell 1/72 albatros to practise with that before returning to my Gotha though.

That's a brilliant idea - spend a couple of days blasting the Albatros to bits with paint at different pressures, mixes, angles and heights, then return to the Gotha.

I must say, I was slightly shocked to see you using a 1/32 Gotha as your very first airbrush project!

[N.C.S.E]

Yep, that's right, with such a big target I couldn't miss! hmm...

[IvotB]

For a start, the colour is much flatter then what I could dream of doing with brushes, so that's a bonus.

Try airbrushing with metallic paints once you feel you mastered working with normal paint. You will be amazed at the results you can achieve with metallic colors that are impossible with a normal brush (unless with some metaliser paints. They do their job with a normal job too, but you have to practice the buffing afterwards).

Ivo

[LindsayT]

To the more experienced and probably better looking forum brain trust:

Any thoughts on this guy:

http://www.princessauto.com/pal/product/8257354/Air-Brushes/Aluminum-Gravity-Feed-Airbrush-Kit

Apparently it's a repackaged Beaver B200. It's currently on sale at the Canadian equivalent of Harbor Freight for ~$40. Might be too good to pass up, even if its not exactly Swiss watch quality.

Any reviews would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Lindsay

[IvotB]

It depends on what you expect. I wouldn't advertise with aluminium as material for an airbrush. It will be not strong enough, but I expect that the nozzle and needle will be made from steel or another sturdier material.

There is always the question what you want to use it for: just to get acquainted with airbrushing (and if it is a bad experience it will end your ambitions for airbrushing) or to use it quite regularly on models in your stash. It might be a good idea for a beginner if somebody with more experience would assist you in your first efforts at airbrushing.

I recommend to avoid disappointments airbrushes from Paasche, Iwata, Harder and Steenbeck and I wouldn't go for the less known brand. And I should get some advice at a local airbrush dealer. Although everything can be ordered on the internet, good advice (and service) from a local dealer is worth a lot.

regards,
Ivo

[pepperman42]

Looking at that airbrush Lindsay I would think $40 is pretty good. Problem might be replacement parts though. Check it out, find the brand and see if theres a source for parts

Steve

[LindsayT]

Ivo, Steve, thanks for sharing your thoughts. I went with it, figuring that I couldn't lose at that price. If it's a dog, I lose $40 and wait for a 40% off sale at Michael's or something like that.

Next up I'm looking for some more advice from the seasoned vets here. If you've checked over on the "Latest Acquisition in Your Collection" thread in the Time To Relax section, I just picked up this air compressor to run an airbrush (and a few other things):

http://www.homedepot.ca/product/husky-6-gallon-oil-lubricated-air-compressor-2-inch-brad-nail-gun-kit/812337

My question relates to all the ancillary items. What I would really appreciate is if a few of the experienced airbrush users could share their compressor hose / fittings setups.

Specifically:
-What type of hose do you prefer?
-Do you run that hose straight off the compressor or connect to another hose for length?
-Do you have a water trap? Where is it in the series? Brand, etc.?
-Any advice / pitfalls on fittings going from the 1/4" on the compressor to the 1/8" on the brush?
-Anyone else with a big compressor use an auxiliary regulator to really fine tune the pressure?

Thanks very much for the help. I'm really interested in hearing what you have to say.

Much appreciated,

Lindsay

[uncletony]

Hi Lindsay,

Note that oil lubricated air compressors introduce some oil into the compressed air output. That can potentially be a worry when using it to spray paint (whereas it makes no difference when driving air tools). If you have problems with fisheye this may be a cause. Moisture trap will probably catch most of the oil...

Adapting from 1/4 to 1/8" should be no concern. The other way, perhaps...

You definitely want a moisture trap. As the compressor heats up, so does the air and that produces condensation. Even if you are spraying acrylics, it can throw you off, and with oil based paints moisture risks a disaster.  It is usually easier to mount the trap close to the supply, although you can also get supplementary inline moisture traps that can be at/near the output end...

Cheers

[IvotB]

Specifically:
-What type of hose do you prefer?
-Do you run that hose straight off the compressor or connect to another hose for length?
-Do you have a water trap? Where is it in the series? Brand, etc.?
-Any advice / pitfalls on fittings going from the 1/4" on the compressor to the 1/8" on the brush?
-Anyone else with a big compressor use an auxiliary regulator to really fine tune the pressure?

Hose: any type that fits  The only item that I find very useful is to have a quick coupling between the hose and the compressor and between the hose and the airbrush. It snaps on in stead of screwing it on and the good couplngs are absolutely airtight
Yes, a water tap, or any kind that separates air from fluids is a must. Mine came with the compressor, so I can't give you useful advice on brand etc.
There are no pitfalls in going from 1/4'' to 1/8''. Just use correct fittings, probably your local hardware store will have those. Otherwise your airbrush or compressor supplier should be able to help you here.
You always have to have something to regulate the pressure. I don't know how fine your fine tuning is meant to go, but for the job of airbrushing I expect that your compressor will do the job.

I don't know your compressor, but judging from the picture it seems to be the noisy kind. Mine uses a refrigerator pump and is much appreciated by my family when airbrushing in the attic late at night 

Ivo

[uncletony]

Yes, good points, I assume the compressor would have a pressure regulator but if not it is an absolute must. You can often find moisture trap regulator combos; I would mount it directly to the compressor.

Ivo's advice regarding quick release couplings is also excellent, considering that you'll eventually want to use this compressor to drive air tools. I would mount a female quick release directly from the output side of the reg/moisture trap. So you'll want to put together a dedicated hose with a quick release just for your 1/8" airbrush hose. I  can show you pictures of this stuff if it is helpful.

In North America, TP Tools (http://www.tptools.com) is a good source for air compressor accessories. (BTW the Champion compressors they sell are truly excellent, should you ever require such a thing for big (1:1) projects.) You can find quick release couplings in bigger hardware stores, or farm supply type places. Beware: there are styles of connectors that look virtually identical (but in fact arent compatible) so take note to make sure the male and female parts match as you add to your collection.

[gcn]

I'd add the dependant upon where you are spraying I'd add a second moisture trap and connect it to the airbrush.

I'm from the UK and I spray in my garage so in Winter there's plenty of moisture in the air, especially at the moment and without two moisture traps I'd end up with many a ruined paint job.

If you're painting in Ayres rock then you'll probably be ok with just the one.

I'd also echo the comment on buying quality gear straight off the bat. Whilst there will always be success stories for buying cheap the chances of success are improved if you buy quality, not 100% gurenteed but definitely improved. I bought cheap first time round, I now own an Iwata compressor and H&S airbrush that have been trouble free for 5 years now.