forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Hints and Tips/Questions about modeling => Topic started by: N.C.S.E on January 03, 2013, 10:51:15 AM
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Hi everyone
I'm seriously thinking about getting a good airbrush finally. I've never had an airbrush before or used one (apart from spraycans for undercoating but those probably don't count anyway). I've got my eye on an Iwata Revolution HP.CR which seems to be receiving good reviews. I've also yet to sort out an air supply.
What do you guys suggest and what airbrushes does everyone use?
Thanks
N
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Hi N
I started modeling again only three years ago, I decided to buy a cheapy air brush just to see how I would go using one as I had never air brushed before. I didn't want to spend a lot of money so the one I purchased off ebay suited me fine. Well, I'm still using the same air brush, it has performed faultlessly, it is easy to use and gives great results, it has sprayed all my models that I have built over the past three years. It has a very good paint/air flow control which is very easy to manipulate, I have found that a good pressure for this gun is around 25psi when spraying enamels or acrylics. I have purchased quite a few of these air brushes and sent them to modelers around the world, they all agree that it performs extremely well.
I purchased my compressor also from ebay, it is a single cylinder type with tank, comes with the regulator and water trap, it is very quiet in operation and delivers an even constant air flow without pulsations, this also has operated fautlessly.
Des.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-V5zu3V_VOXk/UOTdtxggA2I/AAAAAAAADmc/tvpHrfemBSI/s1078/airbrush%2520x%25202.jpg)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-5LZ8jx7lR5w/UOTduFf3s6I/AAAAAAAADmg/4vDmBQsTTPE/s1044/airbrush%2520x%25201.jpg)
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NCSE,
I was going to heartily endorse your Iwata choice until I saw the prices on Des's recommendation. Given his results and three years of steady performance I'd say go for it. If you only get a couple or three years service from it it's still a bargain; the price on the compressor is also a real deal.
Cheers,
Lance
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A timely posting; I was just thinking of maybe taking the plunge myself and have been casting around for reviews. Quite a wide variance in opinions on any one brush. I guess you just go with what works.
I've heard more people than just RB recommend the paasche H. Anyone use an iwata eclipse hp-cs, or Neo?
Thanks,
LT
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I've been using a Harder and Steenbeck Evolution dual for the last 4 years,it replaced my old Aztek single.The Evolution comes with a couple of different nozzles,a three-step airflow control and an adjustable paintflow.I can freehand camouflage with it,down to Luftwaffe mottle,or open it up for undercoating with the larger nozzle,so it's quite versatile.Easy to clean,the only niggle is the fragility of the needles,the tips bend quite easily and need to be treated with care-I now have 2 expensive superglue applicators by learning that the hard way.I must say,I am very tempted to grab one of Des"recommended ones to experiment with.HTH
Dave.
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The best purchase I've made for my airbrush was a second moisture trap that fits directly to the airbrush itself. Before I had that, I was still getting water forming down the air line, which can easily mess up the paintwork.
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Des, I've seen your recommendation and I was a bit iffy at first, then I remembered that I'd been following your sight for more than a year. I'll be buying it as soon as possible I think... The price seems too good to ignore and the results you've had just made the decision for me.
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I use a Paasche H like RB, own a Iwata Micron B that I almost never use and ran thru a bunch of others but the price etc for the unit Des recommends is insanely inexpensive!! I would go for it.
Steve
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I have two Iwatas, both Highlines (with the air control added to the airbrush itself). I had the HP-C with the large colour cup and bought the HP-B with the smaller cup (and mostly for the smaller nozzle) however compared to Des's price and, importantly, results, I'd be going that route too, especially to learn how to use it. I used a Paasche H3 on and off for almost 25 years and it served me very well.
For the price, assuming it's durable, it would be hard to beat the "Princess" offering.
Cheers,
Lance
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I'm one of the recipients of the airbrush Des mentions below and I wish I'd had it before investing heavily in my Iwata. It's an excellent airbrush, every bit as good as the Iwata, and ridiculously inexpensive in comparison.
I use a cheap 2 gallon compressor from Canadian Tire which is a noisy pup, but it does the job. The unit Des posted looks like my old Badger compressor mounted on a pressure tank, so it would definitely be quieter than what I have now.
Cheers,
Chris
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Ordered your recommendation today Des, lets see how this goes, I've got a Gotha all lined up for this...
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I'm sure you will be very pleased with your new air brush, I have had a great deal of success using mine. If you have never used an air brush you may need to do a bit of practice first, playing around with pressure settings on your compressor and making sure you have the paint consistency correct, once you get these two factors right it all becomes very easy.
Des.
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Thanks Des, I might post a few further questions when I get to grips with it, though that might not be for a while yet.
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Whatever Brand or model airbrush you decide on, treat it like a delicate fine instrument. Carefully disassemble and clean after each use and even the less expensive one's will give you less headaches.
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Whatever Brand or model airbrush you decide on, treat it like a delicate fine instrument. Carefully disassemble and clean after each use and even the less expensive one's will give you less headaches.
I almost never take apart my airbrush (Paasche VL) and I have had it for years and years, and used it for all sorts of stuff, mostly not model related. Instead I run lacquer thinner thru it before and after each use (unless I am spraying future or something else that cleans easily without strong solvents) and soak just the front portion in the same, fully assembled, never ever letting solvents or paint get near the air valve or the action. That in my experience leads to problems. The VL is built like a tank. The only way to really damage it is to drop it needle first, and you have to be unlucky at that.
Speaking of spraying solvents, you definitely want to consider ventilation requirements as part of the equation. You can buy hood fan set ups from a variety of vendors or even build something (I did this for my "big scale shop", but I am not going to share my plans -- OSHA would probably not approve) but whatever, don't neglect this. And of course wear a respirator when working with nasty solvents like lacquer thinner, esp when spraying.
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Whatever Brand or model airbrush you decide on, treat it like a delicate fine instrument. Carefully disassemble and clean after each use and even the less expensive one's will give you less headaches.
I couldn't agree more.
Keep the old girl clean and she will last forever and a day. ;)
BVB
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Very wise advice from Bo. I always wear a good quality two cartridge chemical respirator whenever spraying, especially lacquer. As I said earlier, I have been using my air brush for three years and have never dismantled it, there has not been a need. After each spraying session I run lacquer thinners through the gun making sure I do at least half a dozen blow backs, doing this cleans the gun beautifully, I also dampen a cloth with lacquer thinners and wipe the outside of the gun, keeps it in like new condition. I don't have the luxury of an exhaust system and spray booth, so I do all my spraying in my garage, keeps all the nasty fumes out of the house.
Des.
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Very wise advice from Bo. I always wear a good quality two cartridge chemical respirator whenever spraying, especially lacquer. As I said earlier, I have been using my air brush for three years and have never dismantled it, there has not been a need. After each spraying session I run lacquer thinners through the gun making sure I do at least half a dozen blow backs, doing this cleans the gun beautifully, I also dampen a cloth with lacquer thinners and wipe the outside of the gun, keeps it in like new condition. I don't have the luxury of an exhaust system and spray booth, so I do all my spraying in my garage, keeps all the nasty fumes out of the house.
Des.
Des,
I pop the needle out and clean it along with running Laquer thinner through it with and without the needle installed. Time consuming compared to your technique but what/how is a "blow back"?
Cheers,
Lance
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I've got a six airbrush boxed set, bought from EBay for around £80.
They are Chinese made generic types, but they offer a great choice of spray sizes and cup sizes and are amazing value for money.
I'd recommend investing in some Iwata super lub - really makes the airbrush action and trigger very smooth, I certainly noticed a difference.
By the way, can't believe Des has only been modelling for 3 years - amazing!
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Very wise advice from Bo. I always wear a good quality two cartridge chemical respirator whenever spraying, especially lacquer. As I said earlier, I have been using my air brush for three years and have never dismantled it, there has not been a need. After each spraying session I run lacquer thinners through the gun making sure I do at least half a dozen blow backs, doing this cleans the gun beautifully, I also dampen a cloth with lacquer thinners and wipe the outside of the gun, keeps it in like new condition. I don't have the luxury of an exhaust system and spray booth, so I do all my spraying in my garage, keeps all the nasty fumes out of the house.
Des.
Des,
I pop the needle out and clean it along with running Laquer thinner through it with and without the needle installed. Time consuming compared to your technique but what/how is a "blow back"?
Cheers,
Lance
Holding your finger over the nozzle, to force the air pressure back through the venturi and out the paint cup.
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Mini tip:
When stripping the gun for cleaning purposes, remove the aircap and nozzle and then pull the needle out via the front of the airbrush. This helps reduce paint build up towards the rear of the chamber.
Clean nozzle and aircap with desired cleaner with the help of inter-dental brushes. Works a charm!
Von Buckle ;)
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Here's sort of a photo essay of my airbrush workflow. Hopefully of use to new guys, certainly not the only way to do things, or even the best, but it works for me.
I have a dedicated table for mixing paint and cleanup. The top is glass (used to use it as a palette for oil painting -- as on canvas). Makes it impervious to spills.
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/file-106.jpg)
Safety equipment: chemical rated respirator; i keep it sealed in a plastic baggie when not use. Nitrile gloves are not 100% impervious to lacquer thinner, but they help keep the stuff off your skin. When the lacquer thinner containers are open, the mask goes on. While on the subject, remember to not have open beverages or food around when you are working with volatile poisons like lacquer thinner -- they get absorbed and you end up consuming them. Same goes for cigarettes, but if you smoke, you've made your own deal with the devil...
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/file-108.jpg)
The Paasche VL can accept a variety of cups and jars, and it is handy to have an assortment. I keep the large glass jar filled with lacquer thinner, and the small jar filled with Windex. You can fairly easily make your own containers too; the thing will suck from the bottom of a two liter soda bottle if give it a long enough straw... The metal cups I use for paint -- only if the quantity warrants it, otherwise I just squirt a couple drops into the receiver. The large can ("Postcards") is an airtight slop wash filled with LT. The bottom has a cage made of hardware cloth to allow the sediment to settle, like the thing in the foreground. A smaller can made from an old aluminum tomato juice container with holes poked into and a wire handle serves as a parts baskets. Mostly I use this for cleaning the metal cups.
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/file-107.jpg)
I mix paint for spraying into these little plastic sealable jars that I get for about $2/dozen at the art supply store. I mostly spray Tamiya acrylics mixed with Tamiya thinner; these cups are impervious to that, but stronger solvents like LT will attack them. In that case glass jars are the best bet. The little battery-powered paint mixer is a huge time saver; these paints separate virtually instantly so they need to be well stirred before decanting. Portioning paint and thinner is accomplished with the 'disposable' pipettes, which are actually quite reusable. I start with a 50:50 mixture and adjust from there to get a nice 'skim milk' viscosity for spraying. The glass garlic jar contains LT which I use for cleaning the pipettes. If the color is a mixture, I mark the lid noting the colors and the ratio. Otherwise I assume I can tell by looking at it what it is :-)
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/file-109.jpg)
This is my paint station, 30" booth. Not cheap really, but nicely made and does the job. Vents out the window with clothes dryer ducts. Must remember to open window before turning it on!
A spray booth is not essential. You can spray in a well ventilated room that you can close off from living quarters or out in the garage. Some people even do this outdoors, but wind and temperature need to be favorable. Keep in mind that paints spray differently depending on humidity and temperature -- if you can control these to some extent, your life will be easier.
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/file-110.jpg)
My airbrush cleaning regimen. I prefer to take my airbrush apart as few times as possible, both to save time and to save wear and tear. Every time you torque a threaded fastener is a tick of the life clock, as anyone who has been around racing cars or airplane engines knows. I also prefer to consume as little solvent as possible, for obvious reasons. Therefore I spray LT through into the cleaning jar till it runs clear, then I simply put it away. It is not surgically clean -- there will still be a thin film of paint inside the nozzle and on the needle. Next time I use it, I soak the front portion of the airbrush in LT for say five minutes before using it, and it will run perfectly.
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/file-112.jpg)
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/file-111.jpg)
Your mileage may vary, but that's what I do...
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Thanks Bo for answering the question Lance asked.
Des.
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Des,
this is a very useful, informative and detailed thread, can it be made a sticky for future reference?
Andrew
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Thanks Bo!
As Andrew said, very interesting Thread. I've got to get busy and get more serious about a safe work environment starting with some form of spray booth. Also, thanks for the quick answer and ideas on cleaning and maintenance.
Cheers,
Lance
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Great informative and helpful post Bo! Thanks.
BTW, what do you use the minced garlic for? ;)
Regards,
Bob
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Great informative and helpful post Bo! Thanks.
BTW, what do you use the minced garlic for? ;)
Regards,
Bob
It's great sautéed with olive oil, onions and fresh spinach. Fresh is better of course... Oh wait, wrong forum...
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Excellent tutorial, Bo. That'll be really useful. Thanks for going through the trouble of posting that.
Lindsay
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Excellent tutorial, Bo. That'll be really useful. Thanks for going through the trouble of posting that.
Lindsay
I am glad you found it useful. Besides the initial expense, it seems most people are put off by the maintenance. My point is that it can actually be pretty easy. And of course it is critical to work safely.
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Quick question Bo. I use a Paasche H - real basic, when youre cleaning the VL in laq thinner arent there teflon or rubber seals behind the head assembly that would be ruined if youre soaking the whole front of the airbrush?
Steve
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No rubber/teflon seals on a VL -- at least not in the forward section
-- I haven't used an H in a loooong time (high school art department had some) -- I don't remember them having such? Or maybe they've changed.
There might be a rubber seal in the air valve (part 25 below) -- I can't remember, been awhile since I took the air inlet valve apart (usually not necessary) -- but it stays out of the hot sauce always.
(http://www.dixieart.com/VL_VLSTPRO_Parts.jpg)
Here's an H diagram -- possibly part 5 is not metal? Hard to believe they would make it out of something that isn't impervious to solvent on the hot end of the thing...
EDIT: OOOOH I see, there is an O-ring, part 2. Depends on what it is made of, or keep a large supply of those on hand if they start to swell (hopefully a common size you can get in bulk from somewhere like McMaster Carr etc)
(http://www.reuels.com/reuels/test/media/pa/pahPARTS.gif)
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Thanks Bo - yup rubber o ring on the H. I use blow back with Laq thin but the o ring is far enough back that it doesnt goo- i - fy. The all metal VL does appeal though.....they make a sound, robust airbrush.
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I guess all useful advice has already been given in this thread. I can only add my own experience. I have been using a Badger 150 for more than 15 years until it had to be replaced as the thing couldn't be put together again. I used to clean this airbrush after every session by taking it apart. That was the only way for me to keep it working without problems. I did find that this airbrush was very sensitive for the correct thickness of the paint. If it wasn't thinned enough it started to clog the outer part of the brush, which was mostly followed with splashes of paint.
I had to buy a new one anyway, so I went to the local airbrush dealer who gave me a lot of useful advice. I wanted to by a Harder and Steenbeck as I had read a lot of positive reviews about this brand. My dealer however strongly advised against it, because he had had a lot of complaints and parts failure. He then demonstrated an Iwata Eclipse HP-BCSo me and I bought this one. Since then I enjoyed airbrushing much more than before. It is easy to handle, is much less sensitive to the correct thinning of the paint and it extremely easy to maintain. Just let a little bit of thinner spray through the brush after every session, then hold your finger to the top and let the air bubbles flow through the thinner bottle, thus drying the airbrush. Only once a year I take the brush apart and even then I am really amazed at how clean this airbrush stays.
So I can really recommend this airbrush. It is not suited for spraying thin lines for a pre shading job, but it is excellent for any other purpose.
regards,
Ivo
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Bo,
What make is your spray booth?
I'm sort of shopping around presently and looking for recommendations. Some details on size, lighting etc would be great as well.
Cheers,
Lance
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That one is from Micromark. I have to admit I was lazy and I didn't shop around very much as I wanted to get on with it, and it looked the part. I got tired of packing up little parcels of parts and paint to haul them out to the shop building to paint. It wasn't cheap though -- seems like it was around $450. It is a nice size, 30" x ~15" deep. It is very well made, two large brushless motors and fairly quiet. I think it is actually a solid value, seems like it will last forever.
However, I think if you shop around you can find cheaper options. Look to industrial supply places, places that cater to graphics arts, that sort of thing. As I mentioned I made my own (somewhat, but not gigantically) larger hood fan for my shop out of stuff lying around: sheetmetal from an old kids swimming pool, a box fan, some filter materials. it is super effective; in theory the box fan is a fire/explosion hazard (brushes on the motor) but as they showed on the "Matt Damon/ Gas Filled Room / Toaster" episode of Mythbusters, in practice getting the correct stoichiometric for an explosion is well nigh impossible... so far I haven't blown the place up or burned it down. Not that I am recommending anything ;-)
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Forgot to mention -- the micromark booth does not come with a light -- it does have a plexiglass top window. I used a old shop light I had lying around that has a magnetic base. CFL bulb so it doesn't get hot. You could also get an inexpensive 24" fluorescent fixture to mount on it or above it, or even inside it.
and, just a quick search on Blick came up with this, maybe will give you some ideas:
http://www.dickblick.com/search/?q=booth&x=0&y=0&sp_cs=UTF-8
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Bo,
Thanks for all the info. Chris Johnson and I have been comparing notes and looking around, we both really like one by an outfit in the US called Bob Pace Industries or Limited. Catch is we can't find a Canadian vendor and figure the Border Guys would really soak us with the Duty and Brokerage fees. You are right about the prices, they don't come cheap. We are also looking at making our own; Gary (Trackpad) here is giving us some hints however I am a little nervous about turning myself to heat and light if I get something wrong!
Cheers,
Lance
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The heat and light outcome is totally avoided if you use fans with brushless motors. If you saw the unit from Micromark up close you would see how simple it actually is, and how easy it would be to make an equivalent out of mostly scrap materials. The only magic ingredients are the filters (the Micromark has three stages of filters: a disposable paper outer, a two stage inner and finally a carbon filter.) But these are simply sheets of material that lay on top of one another -- so you could buy these from a specialist vendor. Brushless motors are very easy to find -- look to PC parts vendors like Newegg or Tiger Direct or Ebay or whatever. They are cheap -- I am sure you could get all the suck you needed for under $25.
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Okay, the airbrush has arrived! :D But the compressor has yet to arrive as yet so I've yet to utterly destroy my model fooling around with it. But I'll be having a good look through this thread to get tips and suggestions, thanks for all this guys.
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The compressor now also has arrived, however, we didn't receive a lead for the air to go into the airbrush and we've been unable to find anything which will fit. Suggestions please? Where will I be able to find one suitable?
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Try here, this is the hose I use, the fittings have to be 1/8 x 1/8
Des.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-pvrQWkGFbVU/UO4vzhJYSdI/AAAAAAAAD0A/yFb-vtZFfzA/s896/airhose%2520x%25202.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-eCiIHNWO0H8/UO4uJSDfrYI/AAAAAAAADzk/-BFwQxIXtQA/s907/airhose.jpg)
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Okay, so, I've got the cord, everything is ready to go, test it a few times on some spare pieces of cardboard, looking good so far, so I have a go at painting the wings of my Gotha. This is where things go down hill. The airbrush either doesn't give any paint at all or in tiny amounts, I give the paint more water, okay I get a large coverage and lots of paint moving, but then it just becomes a giant wash. So far, it hasn't been $120 dollars well spent. So far it appears I might as well have kept to brush painting white. Of course since I've got the paint all mixed up I need to use it all, so I'm busy fooling around with all the settings I can find, then things look good and the coverage looks nice until it all flows into the cracks and it look terrible.
In short, I really don't know what I'm doing wrong, I'm getting to the point of stuffing up a WnW Gotha before its been started and I'm beginning to think you chaps chant spells rather then paint to get your nice even coverage. Help please.
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I had similar problems when I started - it's most infuriating!
I made a right hash of it, so much so that I had to disassemble the airbrush as there was paint everywhere - even behind the trigger.
In the end - using Tamiya acrylics - I used around 25psi with a 1:1 mix of X20 thinners & paint and using several, light passes I got the desired effect.
I'm afraid that it just takes practice and patience to get the hang of it - I know most modellers go through what you are experiencing to start.
I bought a cheap Airfix 1:72 Spitfire, chucked it together and used that to practice on for a good few days first.
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Don't panic!
There are several factors that need to be taken to account when airbrushing:
1) properly mixed paint
2) correct pressure
3) correct aperture/needle setting
4) correct technique
Generally you want to thin the paint to a "skim milk" consistency. (You are minding the viscosity of the fluid, not the opacity.)
Pressure: start with about 15psi.
Aperture/needle setting -- this controls the fluid / air ratio and thus controls the density of the spray pattern. Most times you want a fine or medium setting.
That leaves technique. Main points:
Orientation. At all times the airbrush should be pointed exactly perpendicular to the surface you are painting. As you move across the work, you should adjust the angle of the airbrush as necessary to maintain this perpendicularilty. Doing so insures that the paint is applied uniformly. Paint applied obliquely will be difficult to control for either runs or overspray. Practice moving the airbrush over the work while minding this until you are comfortable, before pulling the trigger.
Correct distance and speed. In most cases, you want the paint to go on wet (not dry on contact) but not running. This is controlled by the distance to the workpiece as well as the speed in which you move the gun. Too slow/close and the paint will puddle and run. Too fast / too far and the paint will hit the work dry. Note that you can trade speed and distance as necessary to get the desired result. The hardest finish to obtain is a uniform high gloss (like car paint) without runs, orange peel or flat spots. Once you can achieve that you should be able to do anything. Fortunately we seldom need uniform high gloss finishes!
Generally you want to start spraying away from the work and move the gun over it, rather than opening the trigger while over the workpiece; the latter risks a puddle where you start as your arm isn't moving yet. In all cases you want to avoid fanning -- that is blowing air or paint over wet paint. This just produces a mess that is seldom the effect you desire.
Practice practice practice on scrap plastic first until you get the hang of it. I remember when I first got my airbrush years ago and thinking about the same things you must be, but I quickly got the hang of it and you will too.
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Picking up on what Dekenba said, you didn't mention what brand of paint you are using, but if it is Tamiya, I recommend thinning with their thinner, not water; water is ok for cleanup but doesn't really seem to suspend the paint very well.
I have had good results with Gunze Sangyo thinning with isopropyl alcohol.
Post an example of your results and we might be better able to tell you what's going wrong.
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I would suggest that, as Dekenba states, you use an old model to test your settings.
The cardboard will absorb the paint while plastic won't and will give a truer result of
your settings.
Jim
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I agree with everything Bo has said, it is all good advice.
When I first started using an air brush, only three years ago, I was hopeless at it, everything went wrong and I was just about ready to toss it in the bin along with the compressor. I decided to spend a lot of time just playing around with settings and paint/thinner mix. I use primarily Humbrol enamels so I workrd out I needed to add at least 50 - 60% thinners to the paint (I use lacquer thinners) and then set my pressure to 25psi, it worked perfectly. As Bo said, the speed at which you move across the work is critical as is the distance from the job, this takes quite a bit of practice. When spraying acrylics, I use Gunze, I thin this paint with lacquer thinners also, it only requires a tiny amount as the paint is already pretty thin, I use the same pressure setting.
Don't try to achieve a complete coverage in one pass. this will result in runs, sags, puddles. Several light coats is always the way to go, if using enamels I will do a light coat then wait a few minutes, then do it again, I keep repeating this until I get the desired coverage, same applies with acrylics except I don't have to wait very long between coats. Lots of practice will get the results you are looking for.
Hang in there, you will get the feel of it in no time, be prepared to waste a bit of paint and thinners while you sort things out and keep away from your model until you have it perfected. You will find in a very short time that you will be using your air brush more and more, they are a great tool.
Des.
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I threw this illustration together in the hopes that a picture is worth a thousand words...
1 (top): paint spray emits from the airbrush in a cone-shaped pattern. The density of the spray is reduced with distance, as the diameter of the spray pattern increases.
Remember as the paint travels away from the airbrush it is beginning to dry. Dry spray is another word for dust. Sometimes this is a useful effect, other times it is not at all what you want. Controlling this depends on temperature / humidity and the type of paint and solvents you are using. Tamiya acrylics dry very quickly, more so thinned with lacquer thinner. Enamels thinned with mineral spirits dry fairly slowly. Experiment until you are comfortable with with your chosen medium! Retarders are available for acrylics to slow down the drying, as are driers for oil-based paint...
Note that the geometry of the cone on many airbrushes is not adjustable. On some airbrushes you can swapp the needle valve and tip to change the angle of the cone, thus optimizing the airbrush for tight or broad work as needed.
Instead, adjusting the pressure and flow control the volume and density of the spray. Generally speaking you'll want to increase pressure and flow for broad coverage, reduce for fine coverage. Experiment to see what works best with your equipment and media.
2: If the airbrush is sprayed at an oblique angle to the work, the droplets will hit the workpiece in varying densities, too dense in the front and not dense enough at the back. This can cause problems like runs and dry spray.
3-5: the coverage area is adjusted by the distance the airbrush is held from the work. Note that in order to get the desired density, you will need to adjust the flow and/or pressure to suit. Note also that at greater distances, the edges will be increasingly softer. Thus, to do camoflage freehand with a scale not-too-soft edge, you may have to paint the outlines at a relatively close distance, then backfill.
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/spray-copy_zps706100c8.jpg)
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Thanks for the help everyone, after I wrote the post I gave it a shot with oil paints thinned with turps. Maybe it was because i was using a colour other then white, but I'm pretty impressed with how I've gone with it so far. There's still intermittant problems, but I'm slowly learning to work around them and I'm very impressed with how its gone. For a start, the colour is much flatter then what I could dream of doing with brushes, so that's a bonus. I think I might crack open a revell 1/72 albatros to practise with that before returning to my Gotha though.
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Thanks for the help everyone, after I wrote the post I gave it a shot with oil paints thinned with turps. Maybe it was because i was using a colour other then white, but I'm pretty impressed with how I've gone with it so far. There's still intermittant problems, but I'm slowly learning to work around them and I'm very impressed with how its gone. For a start, the colour is much flatter then what I could dream of doing with brushes, so that's a bonus. I think I might crack open a revell 1/72 albatros to practise with that before returning to my Gotha though.
That's a brilliant idea - spend a couple of days blasting the Albatros to bits with paint at different pressures, mixes, angles and heights, then return to the Gotha.
I must say, I was slightly shocked to see you using a 1/32 Gotha as your very first airbrush project!
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Yep, that's right, with such a big target I couldn't miss! hmm...
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For a start, the colour is much flatter then what I could dream of doing with brushes, so that's a bonus.
Try airbrushing with metallic paints once you feel you mastered working with normal paint. You will be amazed at the results you can achieve with metallic colors that are impossible with a normal brush (unless with some metaliser paints. They do their job with a normal job too, but you have to practice the buffing afterwards).
Ivo
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To the more experienced and probably better looking forum brain trust:
Any thoughts on this guy:
http://www.princessauto.com/pal/product/8257354/Air-Brushes/Aluminum-Gravity-Feed-Airbrush-Kit
Apparently it's a repackaged Beaver B200. It's currently on sale at the Canadian equivalent of Harbor Freight for ~$40. Might be too good to pass up, even if its not exactly Swiss watch quality.
Any reviews would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Lindsay
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It depends on what you expect. I wouldn't advertise with aluminium as material for an airbrush. It will be not strong enough, but I expect that the nozzle and needle will be made from steel or another sturdier material.
There is always the question what you want to use it for: just to get acquainted with airbrushing (and if it is a bad experience it will end your ambitions for airbrushing) or to use it quite regularly on models in your stash. It might be a good idea for a beginner if somebody with more experience would assist you in your first efforts at airbrushing.
I recommend to avoid disappointments airbrushes from Paasche, Iwata, Harder and Steenbeck and I wouldn't go for the less known brand. And I should get some advice at a local airbrush dealer. Although everything can be ordered on the internet, good advice (and service) from a local dealer is worth a lot.
regards,
Ivo
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Looking at that airbrush Lindsay I would think $40 is pretty good. Problem might be replacement parts though. Check it out, find the brand and see if theres a source for parts
Steve
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Ivo, Steve, thanks for sharing your thoughts. I went with it, figuring that I couldn't lose at that price. If it's a dog, I lose $40 and wait for a 40% off sale at Michael's or something like that.
Next up I'm looking for some more advice from the seasoned vets here. If you've checked over on the "Latest Acquisition in Your Collection" thread in the Time To Relax section, I just picked up this air compressor to run an airbrush (and a few other things):
http://www.homedepot.ca/product/husky-6-gallon-oil-lubricated-air-compressor-2-inch-brad-nail-gun-kit/812337
My question relates to all the ancillary items. What I would really appreciate is if a few of the experienced airbrush users could share their compressor hose / fittings setups.
Specifically:
-What type of hose do you prefer?
-Do you run that hose straight off the compressor or connect to another hose for length?
-Do you have a water trap? Where is it in the series? Brand, etc.?
-Any advice / pitfalls on fittings going from the 1/4" on the compressor to the 1/8" on the brush?
-Anyone else with a big compressor use an auxiliary regulator to really fine tune the pressure?
Thanks very much for the help. I'm really interested in hearing what you have to say.
Much appreciated,
Lindsay
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Hi Lindsay,
Note that oil lubricated air compressors introduce some oil into the compressed air output. That can potentially be a worry when using it to spray paint (whereas it makes no difference when driving air tools). If you have problems with fisheye this may be a cause. Moisture trap will probably catch most of the oil...
Adapting from 1/4 to 1/8" should be no concern. The other way, perhaps...
You definitely want a moisture trap. As the compressor heats up, so does the air and that produces condensation. Even if you are spraying acrylics, it can throw you off, and with oil based paints moisture risks a disaster. It is usually easier to mount the trap close to the supply, although you can also get supplementary inline moisture traps that can be at/near the output end...
Cheers
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Specifically:
-What type of hose do you prefer?
-Do you run that hose straight off the compressor or connect to another hose for length?
-Do you have a water trap? Where is it in the series? Brand, etc.?
-Any advice / pitfalls on fittings going from the 1/4" on the compressor to the 1/8" on the brush?
-Anyone else with a big compressor use an auxiliary regulator to really fine tune the pressure?
Hose: any type that fits ;) The only item that I find very useful is to have a quick coupling between the hose and the compressor and between the hose and the airbrush. It snaps on in stead of screwing it on and the good couplngs are absolutely airtight
Yes, a water tap, or any kind that separates air from fluids is a must. Mine came with the compressor, so I can't give you useful advice on brand etc.
There are no pitfalls in going from 1/4'' to 1/8''. Just use correct fittings, probably your local hardware store will have those. Otherwise your airbrush or compressor supplier should be able to help you here.
You always have to have something to regulate the pressure. I don't know how fine your fine tuning is meant to go, but for the job of airbrushing I expect that your compressor will do the job.
I don't know your compressor, but judging from the picture it seems to be the noisy kind. Mine uses a refrigerator pump and is much appreciated by my family when airbrushing in the attic late at night ;D
Ivo
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Yes, good points, I assume the compressor would have a pressure regulator but if not it is an absolute must. You can often find moisture trap regulator combos; I would mount it directly to the compressor.
Ivo's advice regarding quick release couplings is also excellent, considering that you'll eventually want to use this compressor to drive air tools. I would mount a female quick release directly from the output side of the reg/moisture trap. So you'll want to put together a dedicated hose with a quick release just for your 1/8" airbrush hose. I can show you pictures of this stuff if it is helpful.
In North America, TP Tools (http://www.tptools.com) is a good source for air compressor accessories. (BTW the Champion compressors they sell are truly excellent, should you ever require such a thing for big (1:1) projects.) You can find quick release couplings in bigger hardware stores, or farm supply type places. Beware: there are styles of connectors that look virtually identical (but in fact arent compatible) so take note to make sure the male and female parts match as you add to your collection.
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I'd add the dependant upon where you are spraying I'd add a second moisture trap and connect it to the airbrush.
I'm from the UK and I spray in my garage so in Winter there's plenty of moisture in the air, especially at the moment and without two moisture traps I'd end up with many a ruined paint job.
If you're painting in Ayres rock then you'll probably be ok with just the one.
I'd also echo the comment on buying quality gear straight off the bat. Whilst there will always be success stories for buying cheap the chances of success are improved if you buy quality, not 100% gurenteed but definitely improved. I bought cheap first time round, I now own an Iwata compressor and H&S airbrush that have been trouble free for 5 years now.
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It looks to me that you have a good set up to get started Lindsay. Definitely add a water trap at the compressor though. I've been using a small 2 gallon compressor for years now; both to run my shop tools, pump up tires, and for the airbrush. Yours will be a good investment. The only downside is that they're noisy so I'm considering moving to this Grex AC1810-A - 1/8 HP Portable Piston Compressor (120V), just for airbrushing.
The attraction for me is:
- it pressurizes the hose to the psi you have set on the regulator (up to 60 psi), then shuts off until you start to expel the air, and then it kicks on and off as needed. This limits the compressor from getting hot, and reduces the chance of water vapor in the air line.
- it also includes a regulator, water trap and hose that is the same thread size (1/8") as the airbrush I use, as well as the Iwata
- it's very quiet at 56 decibels when running.
- 6 year warranty
- and mostly, I'd have a dedicated, compact compressor for modeling
Still just thinking about it though as it's a bit expensive.
Cheers,
Chris
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Lindsay,
I ran my old Paasche Airbrush off a 75 Gal. Shop Compressor for years; had a very basic in line moisture trap and a Regulator on the compressor that I could set to 20-25 psi. I installed a 1/4" male quick disconnect coupling on the far end of the airbrush hose in place of the hose connector designed to screw onto a propellant can. With that I could plug into the air supply at my workbench where I had several outlets for larger work. As everyone's stressed, it's all about the correct pressure and dry air. I'd suggest you take your hose with you and ensure the compatibility of the fittings at the store. The female coupling for the compressor end should be a standard 1/4" female/female that connects where your original supply hose is.
You'll have to experiment with the pressure until you are happy with the performance of your brush and paint. I always spray a good deal on scrap paper etc before touching the model as every combination of paint thickness, type of paint, and pressure gives different results. Have fun!
Cheers, :)
Lance
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My five cents...
Try airbrushing using CO2 bottle. It is silent. No moisture trap required. C02 is a dry gas, no water splatters in the sprayed paint. Installation occupies no more than 1/2 square foot of floor space, and is completely portable.
No maintenance following the initial investment. The initial investment was about 100 EUR. I spent the 8 litres bottle in 6-8 months, refill costs 5 EUR.
I have found it to be much more comfortable than using any compressor (I had three different compressors before).
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Many, many thanks for the thoughts and recommendations, all. It's very helpful and much appreciated. Once I get set up with a system that seems to work, I think I'll try experimenting on an old Airfix or something. I'll probably post it over in the Off Topic section so that you can watch the ensuing hilarity as I stumble my way around.
Once again, the replies are much appreciated, and hopefully just as useful for others to come later that are thinking the same questions.
Lindsay
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If you get a chance, do you mind taking a quick picture of how you have your connections and hoses set up? I know I could figure something out that works, but it'll just give me another data point to consider.
I made this a PM because I didn't know if you wanted to post it publicly. Feel free to reply wherever suits you best.
I went home at lunch with the intention of getting pix of my alternate airbrush hose set-up that I use to connect to shop air, but alas, it seems I took apart the quick release in the interim and I couldn't find the adaptor to show you. I'll look harder tonight.
Meanwhile, here are some pix; total overkill but the principles are the same and maybe some of this will give you ideas. Sorry crappy pictures -- taken with my phone.
My compressor is connected by a semi-rigid line to 3" galvanized pipe that routes air to stations around the shop. This is of no matter to you, this just for clarity.
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/file-125.jpg)
Here's a station -- this is the equivalent of the business end of your compressor. The orange thing is a moisture trap; the black thing is a regulator. note that each station has a drain cock -- (open slowly!!!) -- just pointing this out to emphasize again the fact that compressors create moisture in the air supply, the hotter they get the more so.
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/file-127.jpg)
The output on this particular regulator points down; a short length of galvanized pipe terminates in a quick release coupler (here with a black air hose attached).
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/file-128.jpg)
Here are a few air tools and accessories with quick release couplings. You'll see a couple of die grinders, one with a pig-tail hose, the other with the male coupling screwed directly into its handle; an oiler (air tools need oil -- paint tools don't -- keep those hoses separate!) also a 1 into three manifold so you can have 3 tools connected simultaneously...
(http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh640/UncleTony1917/file-126.jpg)
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My compressor is connected by a semi-rigid line to 3" galvanized pipe that routes air to stations around the shop.
Now you are talking business. :) That's a serious workshop you have. I just have a portable (movable is a better word) compressor where I connect a flexible hose with the airbrush and that's all.
My compressor:
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/Ivotb/Fokker%20D-VII/IMG00044_20110701_1059_zpsa8009077.jpg)
At the right hand side you see my old compressor as the air tank started to leak at the bottom. It just corroded through the fact that at the bottom of the tank there always remains some condens water. Yes there is a valve at the bottom of the tank to release the water, but it is difficult to access. Luckily I could buy a new tank only and installed all equipment on the new tank. This set up cost me about 350 USD, but it always works and is silent (40dB).
What you see is at the right hand side the automatic pump control which pumps the tank until about 120 psi and stops the pump and then lets the pressure drop until 90psi and starts the compressor again. The pressure gauge below indicates the pressure in the tank. There is a safety valve near the tank opening at 125 psi. The big black block on top can be recognised as a refrigerator pump, which it is. In the front you see the fluid air separator with on top the black knob which regulates the output pressure. The pressure gauge to the left shows the regulated output pressure. For airbrushing I use an output between 8 and 20 psi depending on the type of paint and the item I want to paint. For instance an etching wash primer for the first coat on metal surfaces needs more pressure than enamels or acrylic paint. Sometimes for blasting (?) of metal surfaces prior to painting I use a higher pressure.
Just to give an idea at several set ups.
Ivo
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If anyone is interested I just saw this on ebay, it appears to be a neat little spray booth, and cheap. (Australian ebay)
Des.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Nti8SM2QhPY/UQBvDmUTo5I/AAAAAAAAEHA/N68AIVwb0qs/s1010/spray%2520booth%2520x%25201.jpg)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-de0sec4Jlpw/UQBvDt5L0NI/AAAAAAAAEG4/g5PQnY68X6o/s1062/spray%2520booth%2520x%25202.jpg)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-E-aeer-T1Jc/UQBvDk0uSlI/AAAAAAAAEG8/nQO-olvotXg/s1067/spray%2520booth%2520x%25203.jpg)
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Wow, guys! Above and beyond! I really appreciate you taking the time to take pictures; that helps me visualize what I want to do much better.
Ivo, where did you get that fridge compressor?
Oh, and Bo - I think I have some grinding / drilling / riveting / sanding / painting / fighter jet manufacturing to do. Mind if I come use your shop? ;)
LT
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Great stuff guys. Bo, I see in pic one you have those pipe wrenches for holding detail parts together. That is some serious hardware you use!!
Steve
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Ivo, where did you get that fridge compressor?
I got that one here at Harolds (http://www.harolds.nl/p/airbrush/compressoren/compressoren/pag/1/p/compressor-d/#compressor-d). Harolds is a local art supply store near the Art Academy of Rotterdam. Their website is online in dutch so it won't be of much use. But they have an excellent airbrush department. Now I tried to find a more internationally oriented dealer of these type of compressor, but I couldn't find one. I do see a lot of modellers building their own compressor using parts of an old fridge, some steel tank and parts that can be found in online stores on the Internet as an oil water separator, pump automat, reduction valve, pressure indicators and safety valve.
Perhaps I using incorrect english keywords for a succesful search on the Internet.
regards,
Ivo
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If anyone is interested I just saw this on ebay, it appears to be a neat little spray booth, and cheap. (Australian ebay)
Des.
Hallo,
the spray booth looks quite nice, but I do not beileve it is gonna work as expected.
I did quite a lot of experiments to get my stuff working - now I know I need air flow at least 300m3/hr ~ 10 000 cubic feet/hr,
but my solution is surprisingly simple, please see the attached image, I have just an extractor with flexiple pipe on my table. The pipe diameter is about 5 inch ~125mm, a box around inlet is not mandatory.
Important note: even with a good spray booth you'll need a spraying face mask.
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Jan,
Im guessing the white unit is the extractor. Where did you get that?
Steve
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Jan,
Im guessing the white unit is the extractor. Where did you get that?
Steve
Hallo, I bought it in a local store here in Czech Republic.
My extractor is similar to this one.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Grow-Tent-extractor-fan-TT125-/250644881934?pt=UK_Home_Garden_Hearing_Cooling_Air&hash=item3a5b99620e
Using pipe smaller than 125 mm would cause insuficient air flow.
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...and this is my CO2 spraying bottle. IT IS SILENT, since the first try I do not want any compressor in my shop anymore.
The regulator is Micromatic for draft beer, it costed me about 40 Euros.
http://www.micromatic.com/beer-questions/pressure-set-beer-regulator-aid-60.html
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Going back to the Princess airbrush, I've been in contact with Des and it seems that this a/b has tripled in price in the last month, it has jumped from 14.90 AUD to 49.90 AUD seems quite an increase to me.
Cheers
Pete.
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Hi Pete,
I have written to the company to please ezplain their massive price increase. >:( >:( >:( I have purchased many of the air brushes over the years and sent them all over the world, I have never had a complaint about the air brush, some people have even bought two.
It is a public holiday here today so it may take a day or two before I hear back from them, but I will keep you informed.
Des.
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Thanks Des.
Cheers
Pete.
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I received a reply from Princess Trade Australia, it is posted below. If anyone would like one of these brilliant air brushes please let me know, I can buy them off ebay and post them to you, Princess Trade does not post overseas.
Des.
Hi there,
This product is currently out of stock.
We have set the price abnormally high just to keep the listing rate.
The price will be back to normal when it is restocked, for this item should be in the middle of March.
Sorry for the confusion and thanks for your attention.
If you have any problem, please feel free to contact us.
Many thanks
Regards,
Princess Trade Australia
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Fellow Canadians - is Princess Trade related to Princess Auto?
Steve
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Fellow Canadians - is Pricess Trade related to Princess Auto?
Steve
I'm not sure if there are any family ties but I sure like our version; never need anything when I go in but sure find a lot once inside. I get all my mini clamps and a lot of modelling tools there for a fraction of the price elsewhere. ;)
Cheers,
Lance
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Also not sure on the pedigree of the Von Auto's and the de Trades, but I was in there last week to pick up the airbrush that I showed a few posts back. It was definitely the only hobby brush there, and under the Power Fist label is a box with Beaver B200 on it.
LT
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I really like this thread.
I use a badger 150 and love it. I guess if I went to a gravity feed i'd go with a Renegade Krome?? but don't need to.
I also have several paasche and badger hoses that work fine. I don't use a compressor
I have a Co2 tank I got out of an old pop machine and cheap regulator from princess auto.
-Roger
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Just ordered two new Iwata airbrushes. Yes, two. I know that may sound ridiculous to some but I'm replacing my old Badger 150 (siphon-fed) with a Neo BCN siphon-fed ($60) and adding a Neo CN gravity fed (also $60). I still need the siphon-fed option to use with bottle mixes and my future bottle, but I really wanted a gravity fed small cup sprayer. The NEO CR is not only the cheapest Iwata but also has no cup (1/32 oz), small cup (1/16 oz) and large cup (1/3 oz) options. Iwata sells quick disconnects and I purchased those also so I wouldn't need a gate and two air hoses for my compressor. I think this will be an excellent set up for me - I often only want to load a couple of drops of paint in the brush and the Badger 150 isn't the best for me for that purpose.
My wife does not read this forum by the way and will never know. The man cave stays around 60deg fahrenheit unless I want her to visit. :)
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Wow! Great idea Todd. 60 degrees F would definately keep my wife away too! ;D
Regards,
Bob
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Wow Todd, 60 Degrees F you say.............. I admire a "thinking" man! I also agree with your logic on Airbrushes. I have 2 Iwatas, an HP-C with a large cup and a second HP-B with a very fine nozzle and tiny cup for touchups and fine work. I find the combo gives me all I need and although expensive initially I don't regret the investment. Now I have to figure out how to lower the temp. in only one room...... ;)
Cheers,
Lance
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I keep my shop at 60-62°F in the winter too. It makes me work harder to keep warm and I rarely have visitors either.
Cheers,
Chris
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All,
Des's handy little recommendation is now 24.95 $AUS. Careful with the search in AUS Ebay, as the first one that pops up is 49.95 $AUS and is an all-in-one type doohickey. I went to their Ebay store, searched Airbrush and then found the one Des had
posted about way back when. I already have an Iwata, but figure I needed a larger cup capacity one for spraying larger areas.
HTH
Sean
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Well... long time no see... I've been interested in a few other models from a few other eras and so World War I has been put on the back burner... Now I have got myself a lovely little WnW D.V and the first airbrush I had (the one Des recommended) was just giving me so much grief (since I'd had no idea how to use it for most of its life) that I went and bought another one...
Oh dear... I'm hooked now... the little thing is just wonderful... So, note to self, clear it really well after you use it!
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Welcome back N.C.S.E.
It os most important to make sure your air brush is thoroughly cleaned after each use regardless of the brand of air brush, dried paint will clog up the workings and make it impossible to spray. I always clean my air brush with lacquer thinners after every use, lacquer thinners will disolve just about anything so it makes a great cleaner.
Des.
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It is a long while since the thread was started and reading through it I see some very useful information provided. The airbrush Des suggests looks like a real bargain. It's good for those looking to get suggestions and recommendations such as that. I started out with an AZTEC which I didn't really take to. For the last few years I've been using a Harder & Steenbeck Infinity two in one. It's not a cheap option by any means but I really like using it. Good old German engineering excellence is quite apparent. It is far better than my abilities at the moment but I hope to grow into it over time. I generally prefer using acrylics and have gravitated to Vallejo Model Air where possible, mainly for convenience. The H&S is pretty easy to clean.
Even with acrylics I recommend using a good mask and a spray booth. Lungs deserve looking after in my opinion. I used some old computer fans and an old notebook power supply for the fans in my el-cheapo home made spray booth. I am rearranging my hobby room so will probably redo the booth itself to give it a wider frontage.
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H&S Evolution Silverline Duo is what I've used.
0.2 & 0.4 needles, small & large paint cups, built to last and fully adjustable. Can take solvents without disintegrating, spares relatively inexpensive. Very smooth & reliable, hardly ever gums up - and that's usually my fault for under-thinning the paint.
Not the cheapest, nor the most expensive, but will last for many years.
I've got a second hand Iawata HP-BH at 0.2mm, so I tend to use that for detail work, with the 0.40mm needle on the H&S.
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I need a new brush...tired of fighting with the el cheapo's but I'm still looking to fit my budget of about $100.00...give or take...so, would it pretty much be a toss-up, quality-wise, between a Badger 100 and an Iwata Revolution? Both general purpose....0.5 needle and both in that price range with the Iwata just a bit more.
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I would recommend the Iwata. But it may be a very personal choice. Over the last years I found that a lot of people have their own preferences. I have some 20 years of experience with airbrushes, but I have used only 2. The first was a Badger 150 which lasted about 15 years. After those 15 years it was too old. Then I bought an Iwata Eclipse HP-BCS. I wished I had done that long before. It is much easier to clean and a lot more forgiving on the required thickness of the paint. I liked the Badger, but I didn't have any reference. Now that I have an Iwata I will never buy a Badger again. I also have a Sparmax 0,3mm for the smaller work, which works fine too.
Just some food for thought.
regards,
Ivo
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Thanks very much, Ivo...pretty succinct testimonial. Iwata it is. -M
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Great choice Doug. Like Ivo I used an older generation (Paasche) for years (it lasted almost 40 years with only one needle replacement!) and 4 years ago I took the plunge and invested in two Iwatas, An HP-CH and an HP-BH for finer work. They are both excellent products and hopefully will last me the rest of my modelling days.
Good luck with your new brush!
Cheers,
Lance
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Ditto thanks, Lance...and 40 years with the Paasche?....now there's a testimonial. Might behoove me to check into a Paasche out of curiosity if nothing else. Doubtful such quality has diminished.
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Ditto thanks, Lance...and 40 years with the Paasche?....now there's a testimonial. Might behoove me to check into a Paasche out of curiosity if nothing else. Doubtful such quality has diminished.
I think it was a "VL-1", very basic/simple design single action. I've since passed it on to my Son who has it in his workshop.
Cheers,
Lance
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Doug, my choice would always be a Harder & Steenbeck. There are 3 types to pick from and in the price range you are talking about the Ultra 2 in 1 would fit the bill. Take a look at their range here
http://www.harder-airbrush.eu/en/home.html
Mike
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Yeah I've had a Passche VL (double action, suction) for over forty years as well -- got it as a bday present when I was in Junior High. I too have only replaced the needle and capsule once. Used it for work and hobby constantly over that time. I still use it.
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Thanks, gents, for your quite expert input...good stuff...looks like I couldn't go wrong with any of your recommendations...choices, choices. And they're all carried by TCP Global with free shipping.