forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Under Construction => Topic started by: Mike Norris (UK) on November 11, 2019, 01:26:20 AM
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Hi all,
Normally I never work more than one model at a time, but I'm waiting for decals to arrive for my 'Aviatik 'Berg' D.1 build.
https://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=10567.0 (https://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=10567.0)
Therefore I thought I'd make a start on another 1:32 scale 'HPH Models' resin kit.
This is the Italian 'Macchi M-5 single seat float plane fighter.
I know already there may be some areas of this model that will need some attention, so we'll see how this one goes,
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/header.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/kit1.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/kit2.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/kit3.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/photo1.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/photo2.jpg)
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Following along with interest Mike :)
Terri
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Stunning choice, will follow closely.
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I almost bought this kit a while ago, before deciding that it probably was a little too much (both moneywise and skillwise) for me. I will follow your build with great interest nonetheless!
/Fredrik
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I will follow closely! This will be again a interesting build.
It will also give a lot of info for my 1/48 plastic kit made by Fly.
Are the wooden wheels for a beach trolley? Very nice!
Cheers,
Frank
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Thanks all.
Frank:
Yes the kit is supplied with laser cut wood to construct a beaching trolley,
Mike
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A flying Riva yacht...sweet!
Robin :)
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This is on my list to scratch build in God's Own Scale so I will follow closely to see which details I will need to add.
Stephen.
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Hi all,
I've removed all of the major parts from their resin backing sheets or blocks and cleaned away any residue and flash.
The fuselage fin support is moulded with a slight curve on the top edge, which needed to be flattened.
There were no substantial 'blow holes' on any of the parts, but there were a few rough spots, especially under the rear of the fuselage. It looked like it had been filed to remove resin?
The main problem to sort was that the various struts have steel reinforcing struts moulded inside, which should protrude from the ends of each strut for location into the model.
However most struts had at least one that only protruded from one end. I had to drill a 0.5 mm diameter hole into the end of the strut, where I thought the pin should have exited.
Once the end of the pin was seen I carefully twisted and pushed the pin up through the strut until it protruded from the end.
Tricky as you know how brittle resin can be when stressed - however it worked.
The next step is to 'open up' the cockpit and two forward ports in the top of the fuselage, which by the way is moulded mostly as a solid piece so is pretty heavy!!
Mike
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Mike,
You are probably aware of this, Des' Build Log for this Kit. He confided in me that this one was the closest he ever came to giving up on a Kit, you'd never know it when you see his finished product!
https://www.ww1aircraftmodels.com/page52.html
I'm really going to enjoy watching you tame this beauty, it's such a magnificent looking aircraft and if anyone can produce another really spectacular result with this Kit I believe it's you ....... enjoy and I'll be following closely.
Cheers,
Lance
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As always I am looking forward to your build and will be following along closely!
RAGIII
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Great to see your build thread for the Macchi. Looking forward to your next updates!
Bye,
Manni
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Hi all,
Thanks.
Lance:
Yes I read the build log by 'Des' and the corrections he found necessary.
I guess in 1:32 scale we've been spoilt with likes of 'Wingnut Wings' and 'Copper State' with their accuracy and close, sometimes too close tolerances.
Also the ease of construction using styrene parts, with no imperfections, as opposed to resin.
I find it strange that given how long resin kits have been manufactured, we sometimes still find some kits released with inaccuracies, surface imperfections and even warped parts.
I guess it's just a case of the limitations of working with resin and the moulding techniques used.
It's a case of if you want a particular model and resin is the only option, you really don't have a choice.
Thankfully there are some quality resin kit makers out there, 'Aviattic' springs to mind and even 'HPH Models', aside from some manufacturing 'quirks',
Mike
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I just don't understand kit makers not paying attention to quality or accuracy. How much effort and cost does it take to do it right the first time?
I believe you will do the kit justice, Mike. I'll be following along.
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(https://cdn.nohat.cc/thumb/f/350/m2K9A0b1Z5H7Z5m2.jpg)
I'm keeping notes.
Good luck, Mike
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Wow! A challenging project, Mike! But what a beautiful subject! I'm sure you will do it great justice! Regards, Marc.
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Hi all,
My research is throwing up more apparent anomalies - this time with the flight controls.
The kit instructions show both the rudder and elevator control 'cables' exiting from an open aperture in the fuselage support fairing for the tail plane and fin/rudder assembly.
These cables are attached to the rudder control horns at the base of the rudder itself and to control horns only under the elevator halves.
However it seems that:
The rudder cables exited the fuselage at the base of the support fairing and were routed back to the rudder control horns, which were in fact attached the rudder post and below the rudder assembly.
The elevator 'cables' it seems were more likely to be a push/pull rod which was connected to the elevator control horns only under the elevator halves. This method of control would only require control horns on one side of the elevator as it was a push or pull control.
Finally the model does not have aileron control cable exit openings in the rear decking behind the pilot, from where the cables were routed up and into the underside of the upper wing.
As an aside the model does not have the filler cap for the fuel tank, which should be located at the right side at the top of the rear decking panel (something 'Des' picked up on).
This is all detailed, with illustrations etc, in the PDF build log I'm compiling as I go along.
However before I sort that lot out I need to 'fettle' the tail unit as the there are a few issues to be corrected there as well,
Mike
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Hi all,
I've 'fettled' the basic tail unit.
Fuselage support fairing re-profiled and drilled.
Tail plane drilled.
Fin re-profiled and pinned.
Rudder pinned.
Elevator halves pinned.
Rudder control line exit holes in fuselage drilled.
Support fairing aperture opened up for elevator controls.
Rear fuselage notched for rudder post.
Rudder post added to rudder.
Photo-etch rudder control horn added.
Assembly all test fitted.
Just elevator control horns then its on to the cockpit end,
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/tail1.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/tail2.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/tail3.jpg)
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Outstanding mods to the kit as always!
RAGIII
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Moving along very well Mike :)
Terri
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Hi all,
A little more progress.
The ailerons have been rounded off at the leading edges and pinned to the upper wing for animation.
The fuselage support fairing for the tail plane/elevator/fin and rudder has been hollowed out to allow the elevator controls to be fitted from inside the fairing.
I've replaced the elevator control horns, which seemed over scale, with two from a 'Parts' 1:48th scale set.
The cockpit area and ports in the decking have been opened up,
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/aileronspinned.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/aperture.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/elevatorhorns.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/openedcockpit.jpg)
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You are making very rapid progress with this Mike. The modifications which you are making look excellent - very fine detail indeed and you are clearly turning a sow's ear into something much more desirable.
Stephen.
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Continuing to be impressive.
RAGIII
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Hi all,,
Just a few updates for the Macchi.
Engine support bearers with added photo-etch bearer plates (kit part), cross bracing anchors (Gaspatch) and added nuts (RB Motion).
Also drilled out three lightening holes into the resin top struts and 'opened up' the fasteners around the engine cowls and the nail heads on the top of the forward fuselage.
The kit now supplies alternative wing floats but no support struts, so these were made from soft soldered 0.7 mm diameter brass tube.
I've also added all of the rigging points around the aircraft.
Now it's onto scribbing in the wood panel lines onto the fuselage,,
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/beareretch3.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/anchors.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/floats4.jpg)
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How does the lightning know it is meant to go through the holes?
;D
Richard
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;D ;D
Lightening holes are holes in structural components of machines and buildings used by a variety of engineering disciplines to make structures lighter.
Lightning is a naturally occurring electrostatic discharge during which two electrically charged regions in the atmosphere or ground temporarily equalize themselves, causing the instantaneous release of as much as one gigajoule of energy.
Mike
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I must learn to use much bigger smileys
Yes, Mike - I do know that. My warped sense of humour enjoys the idea of lightning forking it's way through the lightening holes
Richard
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;D ;D
I got the joke - I think we both have a warped sense of humour,
;)
Mike
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Why are you concerned with how heavy the model is?
Okay - that's another joke. ::)
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Waaaahhhh ;D
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Why are you concerned with how heavy the model is?
Okay - that's another joke. ::)
He's trying to avoid static discharge
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Hi Mike!
As italian, I'm always happy when a modeller build one of our planes.
The Macchi M.5 was one of the best flyingboat fighter of the entire conflicts, I built one of them in 1/72 scale from the Pegasus kit.
Do you have the Datafile dedicated on the subject? Because there are inside some original drawings from Macchi's factory.
The M.5 was modified during production so take care about little modifications too.
Again, if you choose the black 6 with skull it had inscriptions in black over red/green striping on hull sides.
I will follow you WIP!
Roberto
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Hi Roberto,
I hope to do the M.5 justice.
Yes I have the data file and a full set of the drawings downloaded, which have all of the drawings in the data file, plus more.
I am doing Black 6 from 260a Squadriglia.
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/header.jpg)
The markings in the kit are the same on both sides.
Are there markings missing on this scheme?
If you have any extra data for this aircraft I'd like to see it if possible,
Mike
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Hi Mike!
This aircraft had the inscription in latin words "FRANGAR NON FLECTAR".
(https://www.modellismopiu.net/m+gallerie/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=1350390)
(https://www.modellismopiu.net/m+gallerie/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=1350394)
You may note that no roundels are under the wings.
So, you are working on the tail:
(https://www.modellismopiu.net/m+gallerie/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=1156796)
Hope useful,
Roberto
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How does the lightning know it is meant to go through the holes?
;D
Richard
You know ...I have been sitting here waiting for a lighting bolt to go through one of those holes . Was even planning on starting a poll and get folks to place bets . Waiting and waiting for a lighting bolt to flash across my screen ....well we all know how that ended ! ;) ;) ;)
Terri , still waiting for that lighting bolt :o
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How does the lightning know it is meant to go through the holes?
;D
Richard
You know ...I have been sitting here waiting for a lighting bolt to go through one of those holes . Was even planning on starting a poll and get folks to place bets . Waiting and waiting for a lighting bolt to flash across my screen ....well we all know how that ended ! ;) ;) ;)
Terri , still waiting for that lighting bolt :o
Send your request here: https://www.boltlightingrental.com/
Yes, I know - sorry Mike...
Richard
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And they say lightning never strikes the same place twice ;D
Roberto:
Thanks for those photos - I have them but not the one of this aircraft in flight.
Now I see the Latin words on the fuselage side, which is just visible on the cockpit photo.
Of interest on that photo is the wind driven fuel pump is mounted on the central cross bar between the engine struts, not in front of the radiator.
Also the wing 'V' struts seem to have coloured leading edges?
It's of note just how many fuselage panel 'nail lines' there are when seen close up.
The forward engine support strut on the right side is wider than the left side as it had a cover to protect the engine controls, fuel and oil pipes to the engine.
Mike
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Hi all,
I thought I'd take a short break from the resin model and start on the 'easy' job of constructing the 'laser cut' wood trestles and beaching trolley.
Hmmmmm - most of the parts have not been laser cut through, just scorched the surface.
So these will need to be cut out manually and some parts are quite thick,
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/trolleytrestle1.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/trolleytrestle2.jpg)
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Hi all,
Not represented in the kit is the fuel filler for the tank.
'Des' represented this as a filler cap on the right side of the rear decking panel, to the rear of the pilot's seat bulkhead.
The initial versions of this aircraft were based on the Lohner T.1, which had a cylindrical fuel tank, connected by a filler tube to a filler cap on the decking panel.
However the production Macchi M.5 had a more rectangular fuel tank. Drawings of this aircraft don't show a filler tube to the decking panel.
Photographs instead show what seems to be a cover plate over an aperture in the decking panel.
My assumption is that when this cover plate was removed, it gave access to the filler cap located on the tank itself.
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/fuelfiller.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/fuelfiller2.jpg)
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Even if it isn't the cover on the filler, it is a part of the aeroplane that needs modelling. It does look rather like the covers along the fuselage going towards the tail
Nice work, Mike
Richard
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Good spot on that - I also think it is the same kind of round cover (or very similar at least) to those along the top of the rear fuselage, especially after finding a pic of a Macchi M7 where it is clear they are the same covers on that a/c
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Hi Mike,
my two cents on what you wrote and made until now. I don't think that struts are tricolor painted. It seems that they are "reinforced". As you sure noted, the wing arrangement of the M.5 have "Nieuport style", Macchi was building under license Ni.11 and Ni.17. Maybe the sesquiplane structure had some problems of strenght, as all the planes that had it, Albatros fighters too. Sure the little floats under the wingtips are tricolor painted, not as in the profile (Bob Pearson's style?).
In my files, your choice was the mount of TV. Alberto Bortolozzo, last Commander of the 260a Squadriglia in the war period. "TV." was a Navy ranking, something like "Vessel Leutnant", literally "Tenente di Vascello". In one of my sources, this M.5 was indicated as 7088 instead of 7288, but I'm far to say who's right or wrong.
I think you are right about the "cover" of the filler cap, from photos it seems that was more low and "levelled" in the hull than your build. That section was covered by metal, it permits to a better profiling of the cover. You're right too about front port strut, with piping and motor commands wrapped with strut himself.
Really well done!
Roberto
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Hi Roberto,
I see what you mean about the fuel filler cover.
I've looked at the photo again and I think you are correct.
The cover is 'dished' below the steel decking panel, not raised as I have it.
I'll correct that,
Thanks,
Mike
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Terrific attention to the details as always!
RAGIII
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Hi all,
Just a couple of updates.
The fuel filler cap access panel has been added and is now 'dished' into the decking panel, as can be seen on the previous photograph.
Also the model had a pre-moulded circular access panel on the left side of the rear decking panel.
As I can't find any evidence that it existed on this aircraft, I've assumed it was supposed to represent the fuel filler cap access panel.
If so it was the wrong shape and size and on the wrong side of the decking panel.
I've removed it. If I'm wrong it can easily be re-instated.
I've built the wood trestles and beaching trolley, although they need to be cleaned, stained etc and have the photo-etch parts added.
I'm off for a two week break tomorrow so no more updates until I get back,
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/fuelfiller3.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/trolleytrestle3.jpg)
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How long did it take to cut out those wooden parts ?
Enjoy your Holiday 8)
Terri
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I don't want to make more work for you Mike but did you notice the trolley wheel spokes were turned-what's a bit more sanding? ;)
Cheers,
Dave.
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Hi Mike,
really good work about the cover of the filler cap and the sanding off of a fake cover in the mould.
Now you need only to add holes for wires that running from cockpit to aileron, behind the pilot.
Maybe you already know, the holes in front of the pilots were cellon covered to improve light on the little dashboard.
Enjoy your holyday time!
Roberto
This is a bad photo of my 1/72 version from Pegasus kit:
(https://www.modellismopiu.net/m+gallerie/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=1125040)
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How long did it take to cut out those wooden parts ?
Enjoy your Holiday 8)
Terri
Hi Terri,
Not too long as the laser cut wasn't quite through the thicker parts.
Just had to scalpel through the laser 'dots' on the rear side to free the parts,
Mike
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I don't want to make more work for you Mike but did you notice the trolley wheel spokes were turned-what's a bit more sanding? ;)
Cheers,
Dave.
Hi Dave,
Yes I noticed.
The Beaching trolley and trestles are just basically built.
I still need to sand away the laser burns, round off the wheel spokes, stain the wood then add the photo-etch parts.
Finally a little weathering.
I tried using PVA adhesive, but the parts are all 'butt' joints, so in the end I used CA adhesive.
They look simple enough but trying to align the various parts with wet PVA just didn't work,
Mike
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Hi Mike,
really good work about the cover of the filler cap and the sanding off of a fake cover in the mould.
Now you need only to add holes for wires that running from cockpit to aileron, behind the pilot.
Maybe you already know, the holes in front of the pilots were cellon covered to improve light on the little dashboard.
Enjoy your holyday time!
Roberto
This is a bad photo of my 1/72 version from Pegasus kit:
(https://www.modellismopiu.net/m+gallerie/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=1125040)
Hi Roberto,
That's a very nice model, especially in 1:72 scale.
I've already drilled the holes in the rear decking for the aileron control lines.
Thanks for confirming the covering for the two ports in the front decking.
I assumed they were as otherwise water would have splashed over the bow and into the cockpit, something this aircraft suffered from, especially when flown by the Swedish (choppy water).
I guess these ports were to allow daylight in to help illuminate the instrument panel, similar to what was done on the earlier Aviatik 'Berg' D.1, which had very high cockpit decking at each side.
I'll try to relax in 30 degrees of sun in Mexico :D
Mike
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Just for future reference should the need arise Mike, there is also aliphatic resin glue,sometimes known as woodworkers yellow glue.It has fast tack and is much more sandable than common PVA,and is considerably stronger.
Have a great holiday!
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Terrific progress on the fuel filler cap. All is looking great!
RAGIII
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Oh yes !!!!
A Macchi M5!
I love this plane.
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I always have the photos I took on the net when I made mine.
The cart is covered with protections.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49234474548_42f3322525_c.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49235165947_5fee93e26e_c.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49234938886_bcb1c00802_c.jpg)
Another view of the tank cap or stuff...
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49234510348_ee728bb2f9_h.jpg)
If you need pictures tell me.
Regards
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Hi all,
It's been a few weeks now since I last posted on this build.
I took two weeks out for a holiday break and this last week or so I've been fighting off a recurring cold (wide spread in the UK it seems).
However I'll be getting back to this build and the Aviatik 'Berg' D.1 now.
Huberlu:
Those are interesting photo's - I've PM'd you.
It would be nice to see shots of your build of the Macchi, if you have some,
Mike
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"Frangar non Flectar", 1/48eme.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49237940732_e900211df1_c.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49237245143_e2886197c0_b.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49237936067_a90fe356b2_b.jpg)
http://www.aeroscale.co.uk/modules.php?op=modload&name=SquawkBox&file=index&req=viewtopic&topic_id=155319#1302280 (http://www.aeroscale.co.uk/modules.php?op=modload&name=SquawkBox&file=index&req=viewtopic&topic_id=155319#1302280)
I send you the documents.
Regards.
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Hi Louis,
Thanks.
Your Macchi M.5 model is excellent, especially in 1:48th scale.
Thanks for posting your shots,
Mike
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Hi all,
As my build of the Austro-Hungarian Aviatik 'Berg' D.I is complete (apart from the display case), it's time for me to get back to the Macchi M.5 build.
Thanks to Louis (huberlu) and Roberto (AndRoby67), I have more information that I'll need to include in this build,
Mike
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Excellent!
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Hi all,
I thought I get back into the Macchi M.5 by hitting the beaching trolley and trestles first.
The four tie rings on the corners of the beaching trolley are metal rings.
The photo-etch parts supplied in the kit are flat and two-D.
Therefore I cut away the 'rings' from the photo-etch parts and replaced them with rings of 0.5 mm diameter lead wire.
I also modified the photo-etch tie ring holders to suit the replacement rings.
Also in the photograph (thanks 'huberlu') you can see protective padding, which I'll be adding to the trolley and trestles.
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/cartpadding.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/tierings.jpg)
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Awesome Hardware!
RAGIII
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Hi all,
The beaching trolley and support trestles are done.
The metal wheel rims were annealed to make them easier to bend and to give a better 'used' look.
The wood beaching trolley and trestles were stained with 'AK Interactive' wood wash, then sealed with 'Alclad' Flat (ALC314).
The top padding was represented with 'Tamiya' Rubber Black (XF85) and algae staining by water based ‘Derwent’ Inktense 24 pencils.
Wear on the padding was from sponging 'Tamiya' weather set E (green) and dirt on the axle from 'Flory Models' dark dirt wash,
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/beachingdone.jpg)
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It looks like you have taken up medieval wargaming!
;D
Richard
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Well at my age I sometimes feel pretty 'medieval' ;D
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Wow Mike, I can almost taste the sea salt from here. Looks fantastic.
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...and the Hardware looks even better on the Beautiful Beaching apparatus!
RAGIII
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Wow!
I think that your trolley and trestles are better than the original ones!
Wonderful!
Roberto
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Hi all,
True to form this kit has already shown problems.
The instructions indicate where the forward bulkhead and pilot's seat support should be located.
The bulkhead locates on the hull bottom (effectively the cockpit floor).
If the instructions are followed, it will result in the hull bottom not fitting into the fuselage as the bulkhead would be too far forwards.
The pilot's seat support location is such that, when fitted, the pilot's seat is too far rearwards in the cockpit, so needs to be moved forwards on the seat support.
This means the control column is then too close to the seat.
The forward bulkhead is shown in the correct location.
The pilot's foot boards assembly may need to be modified to move the control column forward and away from the pilot's seat
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/correctloc2.jpg)
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Lovely work on the beaching gear Mike.I spent a couple of hours yesterday pressure cleaning a year's accumulated gunk off my boat yesterday and you achieved the same look beautifully.It's fortunate you spotted the issue with the plans,things like this leave me shaking my head at times,pure carelessness on the manufacturer's part.
Dave.
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Lovely work on the beaching gear Mike.I spent a couple of hours yesterday pressure cleaning a year's accumulated gunk off my boat yesterday and you achieved the same look beautifully.It's fortunate you spotted the issue with the plans,things like this leave me shaking my head at times,pure carelessness on the manufacturer's part.
Dave.
Thanks Dave.
It helps spotting problems having been an engineering toolmaker for 6 years, then 27 years as a technician in the RAF and lastly 20 years as a miltary aircraft technical author.
Sort of second nature spotting these sorts of problems,
Mike
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Some Pictures:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49367278462_9cb7a951ca_b.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49367065566_8e7a57f333_h.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49367279637_21b74ec95c_h.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49367295057_b2cdb09de1_b.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49367065911_dd211d83ae_h.jpg)
Regards
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You can find other pictures here:
https://wetransfer.com/downloads/e000bda2ee36541c4f92058cd0bc253920200111134252/75cedd36890c0dfe7b85fc747e0a640520200111134252/52d409 (https://wetransfer.com/downloads/e000bda2ee36541c4f92058cd0bc253920200111134252/75cedd36890c0dfe7b85fc747e0a640520200111134252/52d409)
Regards.
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Thanks all.
Huberlu:
Thanks for these drawing etc - some of which I have.
The photo is interesting - It looks like the control column with torsion bar and aileron bell crank lever for the aileron control cables (rear cockpit to underside of upper wing?
Mike
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I believe, but I am not sure if I translate what you write well.
The triangular body placed on the Macchi under repair is the base of the seat.
Regards
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Hi Louis,
Yes I think it is the control column assembly under the pilots seat - thanks,
Mike
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Hi all,
I've cut away the centre foot board and rear cross member on the hull floor. This allows the control column to be positioned more realistically, otherwise it would be too close to the seat.
Also allows fitting of the 'V' shaped seat support.
A notch was cut into the centre cross member on the hull floor to allow the torque bar of the control column to be adhered to the hull floor (better support)
These changes will allow the control column to be positioned further away from the front of the pilot's seat,
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/correctloc3.jpg)
-
Excellent work on the pit changes! I am looking forward to seeing it painted and detailed!
RAGIII
-
Hi all,
I've modified the pilot's foot boards and seat support to:
Cut away the centre foot board and rear cross member on the hull floor. This allows the control column to be positioned more realistically, otherwise it would be too close to the seat.
Added more lightening holes in the seat back, as per the official drawing.
Added the 'V' shaped support (made from thick paper) below the seat. This also housed the control column torque tube, aileron control bell crank and aileron control pulley and control cables.
Added nail head indentations to the foot board to cross member joints.
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/seat.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/seatsupport1.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/seatsupport.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/cockpitmods1.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/cockpitmods2.jpg)
-
Awesome details as always!
RAGIII
-
Great work on a tough one!! Think I will stick to my Fly/Hippo 1/48th
Steve
-
Hmm, that seat looks a bit chunky, Mike. Presumably the original was made from ply or sheet metal
I would either countersink the holes from the back to thin the edges and reprofile the top, or just cut a replacement from card
Richard
-
Hi Rich,
There's still a lot of detail to do for the cockpit area, including thinning and roll edging the seat as well as adding the bulk head seat fixing at the top of the seat.
Also the seat needs to have the access for the seat belts to pass through, as the kit instructions show them positioned over the sides of the seat, not through it,
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/seatrollandfixing2.jpg)
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Hi all,
Pilot's seat modified:
Thickness of seat back reduced.
Seat belt slots added.
Seat back rolled edge added (0.4 mm lead wire.
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/seatrollover.jpg)
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A keen eye for detail and the skills to make it work...wonderful. :)
Robin
-
You don't miss a thing! Lovely!!
RAGIII
-
Hi!
Everything is near to perfection!
The seat of the M.5, again, came from the Macchi experience in building Nieuport 11 & 17 under license.
Many compliments!
Roberto
-
Roberto (AndRoby67) and Louis (Huberlu),
Do either of you have any information on the propeller fitted to the Macchi M.5, especially good photographs?
Mike
-
Hi all,
The rear edge of the cockpit rim was fitted with shoulder padding which is not in the kit.
I represented this padding using 'Milliput' putty. Once it has fully cured I'll clean it up.
The photo-etch supplied with the kit has part 19, which is intended to represent a curved support for the top of the pilot’s seat, although I could not find any references to this type of seat support.
However photographs do show a fixture connecting the top, rear edge of the seat to the rear bulkhead of the cockpit.
I represented this fixing using 0.5 plastic rod.
The inlet and exhaust valves on the 'Isotta Fraschini' V4B engine are operated by an overhead shaft.
The kit shaft is moulded as one shaft. The actual engine had three separate shafts.
Also the shaft mounting to the engine do not align.
I'll correct by cutting away the mountings from the shaft then drill out the three segments and insert brass tubes.
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/seatfixing.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/shaftgaps.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/camshaftalignment.jpg)
-
(https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/9/90/Isotta_Fraschini_V.4B_%281%29.JPG)
I do like the single spring for two valves, very neat
Richard
-
Hi all,
The valve operation on the 'Isotta Fraschini' V4B engine is strange by comparison to other in-line engines of the period.
Normally the inlet and exhaust valves on each cylinder would be operated from a single overhead 'camshaft'.
However photographs and drawing for this engine show three separate shafts, each operating the valves for its cylinder bank.
I can only assume the drive for the three shafts is located below them in the lower half of the overall housing, which is not represented on the kit part.
The kit part, including the inlet manifolds seems to have been modelled more on that fitted, for example, on the Daimler-Mercedes in-line engines.
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/operatingshaft2.jpg)
I've modified the overhead operating shaft by cutting it into the three sections, removing the kit shaft and replacing it with 1.8 mm diameter tubing.
This required some re-profiling of the operating shaft mountings at each end of the engine (radiator and propeller shaft ends), including 2 mm extension to fit to the end vertical drives.
The tubes still need to be blocked at each end as the shafts were solid, not tubular.
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/operatingshaft5.jpg)
This has also shown up several other areas of the engine that require attention (so far):
Both inlet manifolds and the two carburettors are incorrectly moulded - the manifolds too long and wrong shape - the carburettors are joined, but in fact were separately located.
No spark plugs location.
No water pump supplied in the kit.
Mike
-
You got your work cut for you correcting the engine , it over all doesn't have great detail with in the kit parts . The mounting bolts for the cylinders seem off , or is it just me ?
You are a brave man to tackle this kit Mike .
Terri
-
Hi all,
The valve operation on the 'Isotta Fraschini' V4B engine is strange by comparison to other in-line engines of the period.
Normally the inlet and exhaust valves on each cylinder would be operated from a single overhead 'camshaft'.
However photographs and drawing for this engine show three separate shafts, each operating the valves for its cylinder bank.
I can only assume the drive for the three shafts is located below them in the lower half of the overall housing, which is not represented on the kit part.
Mike
My interpretation is that the camshaft runs below the rockers, the cam followers are a sort of two armed bell crank with a tubular body. One arm is inside the cambox, the tube passes out the side of the box and operates the valve via the other arm on the outside
It is in my mind that I found a drawing somewhere illustrating that - I wonder where?
Based on that, there shouldn't be a gap between the cylinder heads, so the kit is wrong in that area too!
Richard
-
(https://images2.bonhams.com/image?src=Images/live/2016-09/07/24074781-2-15.jpg)
There are more images here:
https://www.bonhams.com/auctions/23555/lot/71/?category=list (https://www.bonhams.com/auctions/23555/lot/71/?category=list)
Richard
-
(https://images2.bonhams.com/image?src=Images/live/2016-09/07/24074781-2-6.jpg)
Richard
-
Hi all,
Terri:
Yes the engine lacks a lot of detail and has errors - even our late and great 'Des' missed some on his build.
So far I've noted:
Valve gear operating gear incorrect.
Inlet manifolds and carburettors incorrect.
No spark plug locations.
No water pump or coolant pipes.
Cylinders separated at the base, not joined.
No magnetos.
No ignition lead support tubes.
No oil pump.
All engine control rods etc need scratch building (as expected).
No oil fillers (x2) for the crankcase.
No engine data plate decals.
Rich:
Those photograph are new to me but at least they do confirm my thoughts on how the valve gear was operated.
Your explanation follows what I suspected.
You're correct, the cylinder bases for each bank are joined, although the tops are riveted cooling jackets and are very close, but not actually joined.
I did note that but couldn't fill them in until they were fitted to the crankcase.
Thanks for your confirmation on this,
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/eng7.jpg)
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I hadn't come across those before, they are very useful!
I have downloaded them for future reference
Richard
-
Hi all,
The radiator assembly done.
This needs to be done now and added into the radiator housing and engine bottom fairing.
Then I can start to work on the missing components at the forward end of the engine, such as magnetos, pipes etc,
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/radassembly.jpg)
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Hi Mike,
nothing more than "compliments at full throttle"!
Your work is like "scientist modelling".
The Isotta Fraschini was an original design.
Roberto
-
Thanks Roberto.
Hi all,
Work continues on modifying the kit engine to represent what the engine actually looked like.
I've now added a 'camshaft' below the 3 vale lever shafts from 1.8 mm diameter tube.
Also added a pair of 'Taurus' magnetos and a drive shaft (from the spares box).
Finally the drive at the rear end of the engine (1.0 mm tube and drive head modified from spares).
It's all a bit rough at the moment and I still need to add water pump and if possible and oil pump, plus their associated pipes (where possible).
Also the ignition lead support tube etc.
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/engbuild1.jpg)
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Excellent job on the rad Mike , engine is coming along nicely with the details 8)
Terri
-
Radiator and engine are looking excellent! Your attention to detail is amazing!
RAGIII
-
Hi all,
The engine was fitted with a water pump for the cooling system.
On the actual engine the pump was located forward (radiator end) of the engine, below the magnetos and engine sump/crank case joint.
I wanted to represent the water pump and its pipe work, but due to space restrictions, I had to locate it higher on the engine than was actually the case.
The kit engine has a pronounced 'step' in the engine sump at the end facing the radiator (forward end). This 'step' is intended to fit under the installed radiator.
I've cut away this 'step' and fitted two propeller shaft housings from my spares box to recreate the previously rounded end of the sump.
To one side I've added a modified water pump, again from my spares box.
Still more to do - plugs and wiring, ignition lead support tubes, oil filler pipes and what pipe work and controls I can fit.
The whole assembly still needs cleaning up and painting of course.
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/waterpump.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/waterpumpfit.jpg)
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Clever use of spare parts. I like what you are doing a lot!
RAGIII
-
Oh my, I wonder how I missed this build log. Great modelling, Mike, as usual. And you thread will be a great source of hints when I finally get to my HPH M.5 which has been waiting far too long. Thanks for showing us your research and modelling.
-
Thanks all.
Przemol
Thanks - Once this build is finished I'll be posting up my usual PDF full build log at my site.
It'll include everything with data, photographs, drawings etc as well as the problems and the ways I've worked around them.
Hopefully some will find it of interest,
I'm following your 'Baby' build closley as I now have the 'Ansaldo' version in my stack.
Mike
-
Hi all,
On each side of the engine are flat section tubes that are attached at the bottom of the cylinder heads.
These tubes retain and support the six ignition leads on each side of the engine.
The kit supplies photo-etch parts which need to be bent to represent the two support tubes.
However, when created, these photo-etch tubes are much larger than shown in the photographs.
Also, once bent over, they create a flat, double thick 'plate' rather than a flat section tube.
Therefore I decided to create the two support tubes using micro-tube.
Two brass tubes of 1.6 mm diameter, annealed to soften them then semi-flattened in smooth jaw vice.
The ends were filed to a 60 degree angle then two holes of 0.5 mm diameter drilled into the inboard sides.
Brass pins of 0.5 mm diameter were secured in these holes and corresponding location holes drilled into the base of the cylinder banks.
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/ignleadtube1.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/supporttubesdone.jpg)
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Nice progress!!
Steve
-
Continued Excellence!
RAGIII
-
Hi all,
I believe the cooling system operates as follows:
A coolant pipe is attached to one side of the engine. The pipe connects each of the three cylinder banks.
Coolant is drawn through a pipe from the bottom of the radiator by the pump.
The pump then supplies coolant through the engine pipe into the cylinder cooling jackets.
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/coolantpipe1.jpg)
The coolant passes up inside the cooling jackets and out through cylinder connectors to a return pipe on the opposite, top side of the engine.
From there the coolant flows back to the radiator to be cooled.
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/tube2.jpg)
I created the pump to cylinder feed pipe using 0.9 mm tube with 1.1 mm diameter collars. The flexible pipe to the pump is 0.8 mm diameter lead wire.
The larger return pipe is 1.4 mm diameter tube with six 0.8 mm holes drilled into one side to align with the six 90 degree pipe connectors, made from annealed and bent 0.8 mm tube.
Holes of 0.8 mm diameter were drilled vertically down into the engine lugs at one side of the valves on that side of the engine.
The connectors were then located into the engine and return pipe,
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/coolantpipedone.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/coolantpipedone2.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/coolantpipedone3.jpg)
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Excellent attention to the details Mike :)
Terri
-
We will have to call you 'Dr. Mike' after all the surgery you're doing.
A great effort on your part to correct this engine.
-
We will have to call you 'Dr. Mike' after all the surgery you're doing.
A great effort on your part to correct this engine.
Or maybe he's part of a group - 'Mike and the Mechanics'?! :D
Your work is music to my eyes anyway!
/Fredrik
-
'Mike and the Mechanics' - well I was an RAF propulsion technician for 27 years, so that makes sense ;D
I always have music playing in my man cave, along with copious cups of tea or coffee,
Mike
-
I have been catching up Mike - and what a thread to catch up on! The engine detail is just super - I take my hat off to you for adding all of that extra detail.
Stephen.
-
Continued Excellence!
RAGIII
and once again ;D
RAGIII
-
I agree with your description of the cooling system*. To support your argument, the feed to the engine enters the centre of the centrifugal pump and is thrown outward, up to the pipe at the base of the cylinder jackets
Plus flowing from the bottom to the top of the engine is the usual way of doing it
I see those auction site pictures are coming in handy! ;D
Richard
*I often have to work out cooling systems on canal boat engines from scratch, the water pump is generally a safe place to start
-
Hi all,
The kit supplied engine carburettors and their intake manifolds are not correct for this engine and need to be drastically modified to make them represent the actual engine.
The photographs below is one of several that show what the fuel supply components on the engine actually looked like, which is not how the kit engine parts are made.
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/carburettors3.jpg)
Basically:
The two carburettors need to be separated.
The two carburettors need air intake openings.
The two inlet manifold pipes need to be modified.
The vertical drop pipes were cut away from the three ported header pipes.
The three ported header pipes were cut and extended using a 0.5 mm diameter pin, so that the three ports aligned correctly with the cylinder heads.
The vertical drop pipes were shortened and had a 0.5 mm diameter pin inserted in the tops, which were inserted into a hole drilled in the underside of the extended three ported header pipes.
This was done to correctly align the drop pipes to between the cylinder banks.
The joined kit carburettors were separated and each attached to the bottom of the drop pipes with 0.5 mm pin.
Finally the 90 degree bend that was cut away from the drop pipes were used to create the air intakes under the carburettors.
There's a way to go on each of the two assemblies, such as filling and sanding and the addition of the interconnected fuel supply pipes and throttle controls etc.
Those components will have to be scratched,
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/carburettors4.jpg)
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Hi all,
I thought I'd explain why I'm attempting to detail the engine as much as I am.
Normally if the engine is partly or totally covered by airframe or engine panels, there would be less reason to detail the engine as much.
However the Macchi M.5, even with the engine under tray and side panels fitted, was mostly visible.
The particular aircraft I'm attempting to model is 'FRANGAR NON FLECTAR’, Serial No.7288 as flown by Tenente DV Alberto Bartolozzo, Officer Commanding No.260a Squadriglla, operating from Venice during 1918.
That particular aircraft did not have the engine side panels fitted and so the entire engine was fully exposed.
The engine is a primary focal point for anyone looking at the model.
Therefore I felt that it was important to rectify the apparent omissions and errors with the kit supplied engine.
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/photo1plus.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/nocowl.jpg)
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Oh yes!
Most of the M.5 had their lateral panels of the engine removed, I think for
fight against heat and for semplify maintenance.
They were delivered fully covered and change the status during operations.
As usual, fantastic work until now.
My Pegasus kit in 1/72 had a problem that I discovered in last step: the propeller
had blade too long so they touched the upper decking.
Check yours! It was a bad surprise for mine!
Roberto
-
A very good reason for detailing the engine. Fantastic work!
RAGIII
-
Hi Roberto,
Thanks - I was aware of that problem with the propeller tips not clearing the trough in the fuselage.
'Des' also had the same problem when he built this model.
I'm not using the kit propeller, but instead have arranged for 'Alex' at 'ProperPlane' to make me a wood laminate replace propeller.
He has the dimensions required so hopefully I won't need to modify the fuselage.
Strange how both 'HPH Models' and 'Pegasus' had the same problem?
Mike
-
Hi all,
On the side of the engine crank case and between the two carburettors is a blanking plate.
I believe this plate was fitted to seal what was previously the oil filler pipe for the engine sump, but not used on this version of the engine.
To represent this blanking plate, I cut a disc of approximately 2.5 mm diameter from 0.2 mm thick plastic card and secure it in position on the sump using thin CA adhesive.
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/blankingplate.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/oldfiller.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/blankingplate2.jpg)
Two oil filler pipes were used to replenish oil in the engine sump and were located on the engine crank case on the opposite side from the carburettors. Each was fitted with a cap.
Two 2.5 mm diameter discs were cut from 0.2 mm plastic card and secured on the sump.
The centre of each disc and into the sump were gradually drilled up to 1.3 mm diameter.
To represent these filler pipes, 0.8 mm diameter rod was slide into 1.2 mm tube. The tubes were annealed then bent to the required angle.
One end was roll cut to remove the outer tube leaving rod exposed. The other end was cut completely through.
2.0 mm plastic rod was cut to to create two 5 mm lengths and a 0.9 mm diameter hole drilled through the centre of each.
These were attached on the exposed 0.8 mm rods and secured with CA adhesive.
The top of the 'caps' were then filed down to a height of 1.5 mm and sanded around the top edge..
Lastly the two 'filler pipes' were secured in the crank case holes with CA adhesive,
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/oilfilltubes.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/fillerpipes2.jpg)
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Mike, how do you cut such small disks?
Richard
-
Hi Richard,
I use a circle cutter.
Basically it's a engineering bearing held in a circular housing.
It has a sliding cutter that can be locked in any position across the cutter.
You set the size of cut you want then place the cutter over plastic card and hold it in position.
Then just turn the cutter in circles inside its housing.
The blade follows the circular motion and is sprung loaded, so cuts through the plastic card.
The one I use was from China - 'Thinner Line Cutter'
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/circlecutter.jpg)
Since then others have released similar cutters - 'DSPIAE Circle Cutter' is one, although fairly expensive,
Check out 'YouTube' for videos on these cutters,
Mike
-
Hi Mike!
Yes, too strange that all the kits, despite scale, have same problems!
The thinner line cutter to cut small circles is a great suggestion!
Thank you!
Roberto
-
Interesting! I bet I could make one of those...
Thanks for showing it, Mike.
-
I did not realize that those cutters could go that small. I will have to think about getting one!
RAGIII
-
Hi all,
A few more updates for the carburettors and induction manifolds.
Hollowed out the air intakes at the bottom of the carburettors.
The induction manifolds cut/joins have been filled.
Added the carburettor barrels (made from a tooth pick).
Added 0.5 mm diameter plastic rod into the induction manifolds and carburettor barrels to represent the interconnecting fuel supply pipe and auxiliary pipe.
Added control lever for the throttle butterfly valves in the induction manifolds (control rods to added later).
Added three nuts to each intake manifold header pipe.
Obviously it all needs cleaning up and priming, but for now I'll move onto creating the 12 spark plugs,
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/carburettors3.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/carburettors6plus.jpg)
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Tooth pic's hey , neat 8)
Terri
-
Hi all,
Twelve spark plugs with ignition leads.
Made from 0.5 mm diameter tube with 0.28 mm diameter copper wire (annealed) leads.
Fitted into 0.6 mm diameter holes drilled into both sides of each cylinder bank.
Now it's onto the really tricky valve operating gear,
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/plugsleads.jpg)
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Superb!
RAGIII
-
Hi all,
I've been working the last few days on ways to better represent the valve operating gear for this engine, as the kit supplied photo-etch is not very realistic.
After trying converted photo-etch, card and other methods, I decided to go with this.
This is not meant to accurately 'reproduce' the engines valve gear, but more to 'represent' it as the kit engine does not lend itself easily to this modification.
The operating levers are made as two separate levers from 0.5 mm thick plastic card.
The levers are shaped then joined at the centre and secured to their individual operating shafts.
The bottom of the push rods were marked on the engine then drilled with a 0.6 mm diameter drill.
Nickel-Silver rod of 0.4 mm diameter was cut and secured in each drilled hole and against the end of the levers.
Finally a 0.51 mm hexagonal nut (from 'RB Motions' was added to the top of each rod.
Once all of the push rods are done I need to add the pivot lever between each pair of rods.
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/valvegear1.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/valvegear6.jpg)
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I was first reading this while resting after a run at the gym and realised that you can't read these posts unless you're focused enough! They are far too demanding for that! 🤓 With focus they are great fun and also very inspiring!
/Fredrik
-
Those details are coming along great :)
Terri
-
Looking good, Mike, and well worth the effort
Richard
-
Splendid work!
Carry on... :o
von B
-
Those details are coming along great :)
Terri
Yep!
RAGIII
-
Hi all,
Just a quick update for the engine modifications.
The valve operating gear is now done - made from 0.2 mm and 0.5 mm thick plastic card..
The shots below show the dry fit of:
Carburettor and induction manifolds
Ignition lead support tubes
Coolant supply and return pipes.
All that's left now are a couple of external oil pipes and it should be ready to start painting and building the engine.
Other items such as ignition leads, engine placard plates etc can't be added until the engine build is completed,
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/engdryfit1.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/engdryfit2.jpg)
-
That is looking much more like a Isotta Fraschini, Mike
Better leave the top wing off so people can appreciate the engine ;D
Richard
-
Absolutely amazing work on your engine, Mike.
Cheers,
Gary
-
Incredible detail on that engine Mike, looks functional.
-
Hi all,
I've added the external oil pipes at the propeller end of the engine.
These made from 0.7 mm and 0.4 mm brass tube,
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/addpipe5.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/oilpipes.jpg)
-
More incredible detail!
RAGIII
-
I'm going to say ....eye candy !
Terri
-
Hi all,
Two pipes were connected to the underside of the coolant return pipe, located at the top of the engine.
The two pipes were routed across to the other side of the engine, between the end and centre cylinder banks.
The purpose for these two pipes is not clear or to where on the engine they were eventually connected.
As the pipes were connected to the coolant return pipe, it would seem hot coolant from the engine was carried in the pipes.
My only assumption is that these pipes supplied hot coolant to the housings of the two carburettors, thereby ’pre-heating’ both of the carburettors.
This would have helped preventing icing up, which may have been more of a problem for seaplanes more than land based aircraft.
The pipes were made from 0.8 mm and 0.5 mm diameter tube.
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/addpipe7.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/preheat1.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/preheat2.jpg)
-
The Details just keep getting better!!
RAGIII
-
Hi all,
I've gone as far as I can modifying the resin kit engine to better resemble the actual 'Isotta Fraschini V4B’ engine.
The shots below show it primed and dry fitted, including replacement exhaust pipes made from 1.4 mm diameter tube.
It's the longest engine modification I've undertaken thus far, but hopefully it'll be worth it.
So now, it's time to move onto modifying the cockpit area !!
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/primedeng1.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/primedeng2.jpg)
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It looks well worth it to me!
You seem to use small diameter tube in places where I use copper wire, is there any particular reason for that, Mike? I use copper wire because you get lots on a reel for not a lot of money
Richard
-
Amazing details, Mike :o
Bring on those cockpit mods.
Cheers,
Bob
-
It looks well worth it to me!
You seem to use small diameter tube in places where I use copper wire, is there any particular reason for that, Mike? I use copper wire because you get lots on a reel for not a lot of money
Richard
Hi Richard,
I use Brass, Nickel-Silver and Aluminium micro-tube mostly.
I also use copper and lead wire.
When I use copper wire I tend to heat anneal it first as that makes it more pliable for bending etc.
Obviously lead wire is pliable enough already.
I find that copper and lead wire can sometimes be difficult to stay straight when modelling pipes etc that need to look that way, especially when bends are also required.
I find that small diameter brass tube (annealed) holds its shape better than copper or lead wire.
Also using tube allows you to slide over larger diameter tube to replicate junctions, connections etc.
The only real problem can be with using larger tube, as unless it's supported internally with solid rod, it can crease when being bent to 90 degrees or more.
As you say wire is the cheaper option, but I'd still prefer tubing,
Mike
-
OK, sounds a bit 'horses for courses'. It works for you, copper wire works for me.
I don't anneal the wire as it is soft enough for me off the reel. I do straighten it by catching the ends with two pairs of pliers, then stretching it just beyond it's elastic limit.
Richard
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Very nice work!!
Steve
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Very nice work!!
Steve
Second this
Terri
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Hi all,
The cockpit has been modified to correct and add components not supplied in the kit.
Corrected:
Positioning of both machine guns (rearwards into the cockpit and closer to the cockpit side walls).
Replacement instrument panel support bar (kit part too short).
Control rod for Mixture control and Spark advance levers replaced (too weak).
Tachometer replaced (kit part too large).
Added:
Fuel panel switches (0.3 mm tube).
Mixture control and Spark advance control rods (x2) (0.4 mm tube)..
Starter magneto ('Taurus Models').
Starter magneto safety switch ('Taurus Models').
Replacement Tachometer (from sprue).
Half compression operating lever and control rod (spare photo-etch and 0.4 mm tube).
Cockpit front edge padding ('ANYZ' 0.5 mm braided line).
After painting I will add:
The fuel contents and oil pressure pipes to the instrument panel.
Wiring for the starter magneto and safety switch.
Tachometer drive shaft.
Instrument decals (not supplied in the kit).
Transparencies for the two 'windows'.
Flight control cables.
The shots below show the primed cockpit components dry fitted (except control column).
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/pitprimed1.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/pitprimed2.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/pitprimed3.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/pitprimed4.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/pitprimed5.jpg)
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WOW!
Seems real! Beautifully realized!
Roberto
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Your cockpit is shaping up beautifully as expected!
RAGIII
-
I really like the seat !
Terri
-
Hi all,
The carpet monster has struck.
Like all of us I'm used to small parts disappearing during a build, but this was no small part.
In fact it is the pilot's seat cushion, which is a fairly large piece of resin.
Two nights ago I dry assembled the entire cockpit, including the cushion, so I could post the photos above.
Today I was painting the cockpit and parts and hey-ho, the cushion has gone missing.
I've ripped apart my man cave to find it but to no avail - mystery.
As such I'm having to make a cushion from 'Milliput' with a covering of liquid sprue (thin plastic card melted in liquid cement).
Sorry Terri - you'll not see that cushion you liked so much,
Mike
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I had lost track of this build Mike so I have just spent a happy session catching up. This is exceptional work - the engine and cockpit details are of a standard of which I could only dream...
Inspiring in every way.
Stephen.
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Hi Mike!
Sad for your cushion...
In reality many pilots takes out cushion when they were not in the planes for missions...
Maybe yours take out the cushion when you're looking on the other side? ;D ;D ;D
Seriously, I had doubts about the presence of the handling system on the back of your Vickers,
because I didn't found traces in original dwgs, after I found THE photo that I think you used as a clue.
Congrats again!
Roberto
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Hi Roberto,
Now that's an idea ;D
Yes the guns are mounted horizontal, not vertical, which was usual.
I believe the Macchi M.5 was fitted with twin 'FIAT Revelli' machine guns, adapted from the land version.
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/cockpitlayout.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/fiat-revelli.jpg)
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No worries Mike , happens to all of us . Some more the others such as me ! I do find find the part , but I find it on the other side of the house months later :o
Terri
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Hi all,
Typical!!
I made a replacement seat cushion and took it into my spray booth area (through a door from my man cave).
The intention was to give the replacement cushion a primer coat.
Yup you guessed - on the floor of the spray booth was the original kit seat cushion!!!!
Even though I'd looked in there I didn't spot it.
The only reason I did was I saw a pipette that had dropped onto the floor and when I picked it up I saw the cushion nearby.
Hey-Ho, on we go,
Mike
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Hi all,
Typical!!
I made a replacement seat cushion and took it into my spray booth area (through a door from my man cave).
The intention was to give the replacement cushion a primer coat.
Yup you guessed - on the floor of the spray booth was the original kit seat cushion!!!!
Even though I'd looked in there I didn't spot it.
The only reason I did was I saw a pipette that had dropped onto the floor and when I picked it up I saw the cushion nearby.
Hey-Ho, on we go,
Mike
I had a similar incident while working on My Camel. I lost the smaller of the PE seat belts. After Multiple searches I gave up and made a replacement. A couple of weeks later I dropped one of the MG cocking levers. While searching ...I found the seat belt but not the handle :o
RAGIII
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Don't you hate it when that happens >:(
I know I shouldn't laugh, but ;D
Mike
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Hi all,
The cockpit is now complete.
As I found with the engine, the cockpit required a lot of modifications and additions to bring it up to looking more like the actual aircraft cockpit.
Basically, the modifications and additions made were as follows:
Fuselage inner side walls heavily thinned and both assembled machine guns modified to allow the guns to sit in their correct positions in the cockpit.
Forward bulkhead repositioned as the kit instructions were incorrect.
Support bar for the instrument panel and climb indicator replaced with micro-tube (kit part too short).
Cockpit rear padding created from ‘Milliput’ (kit photo-etch part unusable).
Cockpit forward edge padding bead added (not in the kit).
Pilot’s seat – addition holes in the seat back.
Pilot’s seat – slots created for the seat belts.
Pilot’s seat – seat support frame created (not in the kit).
Pilot’s foot board assembly modified to allow the control column to be positioned further away from the pilot’s seat.
Pilot’s seat top attachment to rear bulkhead added.
Panel switches replaced with micro-tube (kit photo-etch unrealistic).
‘Taurus Models’ starter magneto added (not in kit).
‘Taurus Models’ starter magneto safety switch added (not in the kit).
Tachometer ‘scratch’ replaced (kit part too large).
Engine half compression lever and control rod added (not in the kit).
Fuel contents pipe to gauge added – ‘PlusModels’ lead wire.
Oil pressure pipe to gauge added – ‘PlusModels’ lead wire.
Micro-tube used for control rods (Half compression control, Spark advance control, Fuel mixture control).
Cockpit window ports created using clear acetate sheet and in-filled with ‘Krystal Clear’.
Rudder control cables added (0.4 mm Nickel-Silver tube and 0.12 mm mono-filament).
Hole drilled through right side of fuselage (at engine forward right support strut location) – for cockpit controls to engine.
Control column machine gun triggers replaced with micro-tube (kit photo-etch unrealistic).
Machine gun trigger cables added (‘PlusModels’ lead wire).
Other than that, the cockpit was built straight out of the box!!
I forgot to take completion shots of the cockpits internals before closing it up.
However, there is the one shot on the cockpit floor assembly finished.
In the following photographs, the two ‘white discs’ are the cockpit window ports – the ‘Krystal Clear’ was still setting when I took the photographs,
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/cockpitmods19.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/pitdone1.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/pitdone2.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/pitdone3.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/pitdone4.jpg)
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My hats are off to your attention to details, dear sir!
This build has been a pleasure to watch indeed, keep up the great work.
Cheers
Ondra
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I completely agree with Ondra. Your attention to detail is second to none and the results show just how carefully you strive to achieve complete accuracy. A wonderfully instructive build log.
Stephen.
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Hi all,
Thanks - I had problems getting onto the site after an IT glitch on the forum yesterday, but it seems all OK now.
Talking of build logs, my PDF build log that I'm compiling as I build the model is up to 185 pages already.
I think by the time I'm done it'll be the largest build log I've done to date!!
Mike
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The details are gorgeous but the painting really is Outstanding! The seat cushion leather is simply perfect!
RAGIII
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Hi all,
Thanks - I had problems getting onto the site after an IT glitch on the forum yesterday, but it seems all OK now.
Yes, apparently yesterday went missing
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I could live live in the cockpit. So warm and cosy :-*
Keep up the inspiring work.
vB
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I could live live in the cockpit. So warm and cosy :-*
Until you start the engine, then someone begins to throw buckets of water in your face
Richard
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I could live live in the cockpit. So warm and cosy :-*
Until you start the engine, then someone begins to throw buckets of water in your face
Richard
;D ;D ;D
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I could live live in the cockpit. So warm and cosy :-*
Until you start the engine, then someone begins to throw buckets of water in your face
Richard
Well ...until lift off :-X
Excellent attention to the details Mike . The pit is just out standing . Looking forward on the next up-date
Terri
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Nice work on that office space, Mike.
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Hi all,
The fuselage has now been prepared for application of the decals, which hopefully will be a combination of wood effect decals and kit decals.
If that doesn't work out I'll revert to creating the wood effects using oil paints.
The actual aircraft had a Latin legend along both sides of the fuselage - ‘FRANGAR NON FLECTAR’.
Some translation for this are:
'I am broken, I am not deflected'
’I’ll break but will not bend’
'I will break, not bow'
'I am broken, I am not deflected'
This is not supplied as a decal in the kit, which is not surprising given it's not even shown on the kit colour illustrations!!
As there is no aftermarket for this I have to resort to creating a mask set, which I've done on my 'Cricut Air 2' cutting machine.
Hopefully the mask won't peel off and decals or paint when I remove them, as airbrushing this legend is literally the last job on the fuselage.
I've added the 'dome' in front of the windscreen and what appears to be a rudimentary gun sight. The purpose of this 'dome' is unclear.
I've primed the fuselage in white as our own 'Des' noted that the decals were somewhat 'see through', so he had to add a white base under the roundels.
Also the wood effect decals need a white background.
I've added pre-shading along the wood panel nail lines, which I created with a 'Rosie the Riveter' tool.
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/extras2.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/fuspredecal.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/photo1plus.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/latinmask.jpg)
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Hi all,
An example below of the 'translucent' decals supplied in the kit.
When applied over other decals or paint, the colour below shows through.
This means a white base colour needs to be applied, both under individual decals as well as for the wood effect decals.
It also means the individual wood decals will need to be cut around the kit decals - tricky, but worth trying rather than using oil paint for wood effect and then painting on a white base under each decal location.
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/decalbleed.jpg)
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Nice work on the Dome and I am sure you will get the decals and underpainting all sorted out!
RAGIII
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You have your work cut out for you with this step . Just thinking out loud here , but couldn't you use white decal sheet it shelf as the base for the national markings and not having to cut into the wood grain decals ?
Terri
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Hi Terri,
I had thought of various way to get around these translucent decals.
Applying the wood decals, then white paint or white decal over the wood decals where the kit decals are to go, then applying the kit decals.
Applying the wood decals then using masks to airbrush on the various kit markings.
Applying the wood effect by oil brushing then airbrushing the kit markings.
Although all of the above are feasible, they all involve either two or more layers, which might leave a 'ridge' around the finished markings.
That would be tricky to eliminate without damaging the markings and surrounding area.
Applying the wood and kit decals separately onto a white base coat is not going to be easy and will be time consuming, but hopefully there won't be any noticeable ridges and it'll all look uniform.
We'll see
Mike
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Now I'm getting excited on seeing the results Mike , thanks for the reply :)
Terri
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Hi Terri,
As I thought, the decals are very fragile and easily damaged even when dry and still on their backing sheets.
I caught one decal on its backing sheet with a finger nail and the decals ripped!!
I'm applying the decals to the easiest panels first.
So it's a case of 'Slowly, slowly, catchy monkey'
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/partdecal.jpg)
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Very, very nice Mike!
Kent
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How about applying the decals to a sheet of white decal paper?
Richard
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The decals may be fragile but what you have done so far look Great!
RAGIII
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Looks great, Mike. Take your time on this one.
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Hi all,
Thanks for the encouragement.
Richard:
Yeah as I said in the previous post, I had considered white decal as decal backing.
However I'm trying to limit various layers in an attempt to keep the finished surface uniformly flat.
Even though a white decal backing is thin, it would be another layer.
Anyway I'm committed now so we'll see.
Thanks for your suggestion though - something to bear in mind for the wing roundels,
Mike
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Bad decals or not you are creating a great looking bird!!
Steve
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Hi all,
I've removed the wood effect decals from the fuselage as they proved to be extremely easily damaged, even after being sealed.
Maybe a bad set of decals, but I've never know decals to chip, tear or lift off the surface after being sealed!!
It's as though the have no adhesion at all.
Anyway I'm reverting back to using oil paint to represent the fuselage wood panels.
Mike
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Well now that just sucks Mike , she was really starting to pull together with the scheme , still though I'm looking forward on the oils ( Your work will turn out better then the decals anyway ) ;) 8)
Terri
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It is so much to learn from your threads! Many thanks for showing all those bits and explaining. Not only the top notch modelling but teaching as well.
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That's quite a setback, but after seeing what the results could be, I hope you are motivated to complete this!
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Hi all,
Thanks.
Every now and then we all get to the 'throwing at the wall' point with a model.
I should have expected problems as I'd used this make of wood decal previously.
However lessons learned and we carry on.
Mike
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Hi Mike!
I see now your steps forward. Good to choose a white field under the decals.
I have only something to say about wood veener. Fuselage sides of the M.5 were covered by a single
wooden sheet from tip to tail, with horizontal veener, in the direction of the air flow.
You may see in the photo of left side that there was lines of little nails that fix the sheet to the internal structure.
Maybe I'm wrong, but I see that you choose (paint?) vertical veener. Must I need to change my glasses?
Red and green stripes were a little bit more large, I think you are "in the corner" with the decals domensions...
If I can, I will suggest you to write sides latin motto by hand, as the original. I don't think there's the right font on internet or programs...
You are building a masterpiece, I'm sure of that.
My two cents, as always,
Roberto
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Hi Roberto,
Thanks for the information of the wood application.
Your post was very well timed as I'm about to re-start the fuselage wood effect and stripes.
When I looked at the drawings I saw the nail lines and assumed there were separate wood panels.
I'll take your advice and apply the effect horizontally and as one piece with the nail lines added.
I'll try the mask I've made for the Latin motto, as brush painting the motto would be less than uniform,
Mike
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Hi Mike!
Ansaldo used same system to cover Balilla and SVAs, I think everything was influenced by building boats!
For the latin motto, as you for sure may imagine, they were applied by brush from the Squadriglia's personnel,
no masking tape! You may follow the original.
Roberto
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Hi Roberto,
Thanks for the update - good to know as I have an 'Ansaldo 'Ballila' in my stash.
Hi all,
As I wasn't happy using wood effect decals I stripped off all of the previously applied roundels, stripes and the wood effect decals.
I then sanded the fuselage and re-primed with 'AK Interactive' white (AK759).
Then I applied 'Tamiya' Dark Yellow (XF60).
I masked off the white areas then sponged on 'DecoArt Crafters Acrylic' paint along the fuselage.
Next is to Airbrush 'Tamiya' Chear Orange (XF26) or Yellow (XF24) mixed with a semi-matte sealer ('Alclad' Light Sheen (ALC-311).
Then add the roundels and fuselage stripes (white decal first).
Add back the nail lines with a 'Rosie the Riveter' (1:32nd - 1 mm).
Apply the final decals.
Finally a weathering wash of 'Flory Models' Dark Dirt or Grime followed by a light sheen sealing coat.
So still a bit to do,
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/woodon.jpg)
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Great restart on the finish Mike, I admire your determination to get it right. It looks much better and once the stripes are on it will really look good. Nice work! :) 8)
Cheers,
Lance
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I have to say that your painted wood looks much better to My eye than the decals! Well done on the correction/fix!
RAGIII
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Hi all,
Thanks - I think it looks better as well.
Thanks to Roberto for his timely information that the fuselage was single sheet plywood, not separate panels as I'd done with decals.
Otherwise I would have gone down the same route and ended up having to strip it all back again,
Mike
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Hi Mike,
I'm always happy if my infos may help a modeller to reach a better goal.
Everytime I post my WIPs or completed models I hope that if someone see errors he let me know, no one of us have all the truth in hand and "from modeller to modellers" is one of my favourite motto.
Coming back to your Macchi, now is really beautiful, almost perfect.
Great compliments,
Roberto
-
Thanks again for your advice Roberto - This model needs it.
Hi all,
The fuselage decal are now on.
As the kit supplied decals are translucent and darker colours underneath show through, I had to cut out white decals for the roundels and skulls.
Not easy but at least the darker wood colour doesn't show through,
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/decalfus.jpg)
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That's a lot better, Mike
I so love the M-5
Richard
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Hi Richard,
Me to, but as Shakespeare once said 'the path of true love never did run smooth'
Mike
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That's great Mike,the woodgraining and decals look terrific .
Cheers,
Dave.
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Again, fine looking results, Mike, but better as it is more accurate.
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Hi all,
Research shows detail not always reflected in the model kit or its instructions.
This model will depict Macchi M.5, Serial No. M 7288 of No.260a Squadriglla, operating from Venice during 1918.
The following are photographs showing M 7288 in flight and also an in-flight photograph of Macchi M.5, Serial No: M 7292. Both aircraft operated with No.260a Squadriglla.
The colour illustrations in kit instructions show that the aircraft had alternate red and green stripes, equally spaced around the fuselage.
The first (red) stripe appears to be located close to the curved recess in the top of the fuselage, which was necessary to clear the rotating propeller.
The last fuselage stripe (green) was located slightly rearwards from the leading edge of the tail plane support fairing.
The stripes were equally spaced along the fuselage.
However, when referring to the two photographs of the actual aircraft, it’s evident that the M 7288 did not have the first two stripes (red and green) on the underside of the fuselage and M 7292 did not have the first (red) stripe on the underside of the fuselage.
Either these stripes were never actually painted on these aircraft or if they were, the stripes had been gradually removed by contact with the beaching trolley or by water spray from the fuselage step at the rear of the ’keel’ of the fuselage hull.
Interestingly, as Roberto pointed out, although the kit instructions shown the wing floats as varnished wood, the floats on M 7288 were in fact painted with the Italian tricolour and M 7292 had white spots.
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/bands2.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/bands.jpg)
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Mike,
I have just caught up (after a long break) on your excellent build log. I am truly inspired by your attention to detail and your perseverance in getting a much better wood effect on the fuselage. The cockpit and engine details are also super - modelling of the very highest standard here. I too am a fan of the Macchi flying boats - but then I am a fan of their H-B predecessors too! All were superb examples of aeronautical engineering - true "yachts of the air".
Stephen.
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"Yachts of the air"-very apt Stephen.Some years ago there was video of the maiden flight of a homebuilt reproduction of an early flying boat,I can't remember if it was an M-5 and unfortunately lost it in one of my epic computer crashes,but it certainly was an amazing thing to see.Interesting that full length sheets of plywood were being produced during WW1,beats scarfing and glueing shorter sheets for ease and speed of construction.
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Now that turned out super Mike !
Terri
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Hi all,
Thanks.
Just the red and green stripes to airbrush and a few bits of details to paint.
Then weather and onto the rest of the model,
Mike
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Absolutely agree that it looks better than the original wood decal. Your white base for the roundels has worked well!
RAGIII
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Hi Mike,
I'm always happy if my infos may help a modeller to reach a better goal.
Everytime I post my WIPs or completed models I hope that if someone see errors he let me know, no one of us have all the truth in hand and "from modeller to modellers" is one of my favourite motto.
Coming back to your Macchi, now is really beautiful, almost perfect.
Great compliments,
Roberto
Hi Roberto,
The 'dome' on the decking just in front of the pilot's windscreen?
It's been suggested to me that this could be a binnacle mount for a compass.
Similar to those that are sometimes fitted to wooden boats.
Apparently a hole the diameter of the compass cylinder is cut and the assembly drops in and is secured to the deck with screws through a flange at the base of the dome.
In the rear of the dome is a window that allows you to view the compass floating inside.
The picture below is similar but this example has a flip-up half-shell cover rather than a full metal dome with a window.
What do you think - could the dome have been a compass binnacle?
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/binnacle.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/binnacle3.jpg)
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Hi Mike!
I'm sorry but this time I have no idea about the "dome" in front of the cockpit. First it was not standard feature, as you sure note. I think you have the "more close to reality" answer to this. I was thinking about a counter for the Vickers bullets, but this was a feature that I never saw on our planes, so I think compass can be the right suggestion. I don't want to say stupid things without proofs.
About red/green striping on fuselage you are right. 7288 and 7292 are close in Macchi's line production, the M.5 left factory with serial number, fuselage roundels and red/green sections under the wings and on rudder too. Striping on fuselage was added in the hangars, as personal insignia (on floats too), number inside Squadriglia and (as 7292) roundels under the lower wings. The last was NOT a standard feature. Official bulletin from our Ministry of War ordered that roundels under lower wings on flying boats must be painted INSIDE color section on wingtips, with color reversed to see the roundels. So, green outer color of roundel in the red section and viceversa. You may noted this in photos of first L.1 delivered by Macchi, L.101, copy of the Lohner L40. But this rule was soon abandonated and some pilots asked for roundels outside of color sections.
I'm sure you not forgot, in next steps, to paint natural metal the sheet where Vickers fires out of the bow.
Hope useful again!
Roberto
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Hi Roberto,
Once again thanks.
Unless anyone can throw light as to what the 'dome' actually is, then I think I'll go with a compass binnacle.
It makes sense as the pilot's would have been operating over the sea for most of the time and as such did not have land reference points for navigation.
A compass would have been a good instrument to have fitted, even if it was a option rather than a standard fit.
Interesting information about the reversed colours for roundels painted over the red and green colours on the wings - something I didn't know.
That said, as you pointed out, M. 7288 did not have under wing rounds so that's not a problem for this model.
Yes I still have the stripes to paint as well as the metal finish on the gun ports and rigging plates.
Mike
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Binnacle - now, there's a word
Richard
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...I'm old enough to have barnacles.....
Steve
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Toooo much info Steve ..... :o
Terri
-
Hi Mike,
I want to add something to your/my suggestions: as a pilot, I think I would add a compass clearly visible (the dashboard of the M.5 was in a dark position, also with the "light holes" above). On the other side, again as a pilot, my range of war missions is clearly visible from the high, from Venice to Pola by air was only 136 km with many points used as references in the middle, as all the cities on italian/croatian coasts.
It was really difficult to lose your way home. Maybe night missions?
I know that mine are only speculations, the only thing I want to point out is that Adriatic see was a really out of "standards" as war frontline.
But, again, no things better than a compass came to my mind to help you.
My two cents, this time at 100%.
Roberto
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...I'm old enough to have barnacles.....
Steve
You should get your bottom scraped
-
Hi Mike,
I want to add something to your/my suggestions: as a pilot, I think I would add a compass clearly visible (the dashboard of the M.5 was in a dark position, also with the "light holes" above). On the other side, again as a pilot, my range of war missions is clearly visible from the high, from Venice to Pola by air was only 136 km with many points used as references in the middle, as all the cities on italian/croatian coasts.
It was really difficult to lose your way home. Maybe night missions?
I know that mine are only speculations, the only thing I want to point out is that Adriatic see was a really out of "standards" as war frontline.
But, again, no things better than a compass came to my mind to help you.
My two cents, this time at 100%.
Roberto
Hi Roberto,
Thanks - I've added this information into my build log.
I'm going with a binnacle housing and compass as being the most probable.
I'm going to try to represent a binnacle housing with glass window, rather than a 'solid' dome.
I've cut and shaped the housing and hopefully fix it over a compass decal then infill the 'glass'.
We'll see,
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/binacclecover.jpg)
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Oh yes!
Great idea to realize a binnacle housing with glass window. I agree 100%.
Maybe a complete glass covering, like a "snow ball"?
In the photo of left side the light reflection on the "dome" is the same as on the windscreen, this is the source of my doubt.
Now I shut up myself and continue to follow your fantastic work!
Roberto
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Hi all,
I still have weathering, nail lines and the green fuselage stripes (waiting for paint to arrive) to do.
However I have:
Painted the gun ports and rigging panels ('Mr. Colour' Stainless Steel).
Painted the engine support strut mountings ('Mr. Colour' Aluminium).
Fitted gun barrels (0.7 mm diameter tube) painted with 'Mr. Colour' Iron.
Gun Sight (0.3mm and 0.5 mm diameter tube) painted with 'Tamiya' Rubber Black (XF85)..
Compass binnacle (modified sprue with a compass decal and clear 'window').
Windscreen ('Alclad' Duralumin) - clear area treated with 'Pledge' Floor care.
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/deckingdone.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/deckingdone2.jpg)
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Nice work on the compass binnacle Mike! Your painting of the fittings look great!
RAGIII
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Hi all,
The fuselage is progressing with the stripes and Latin legend 'Frangar Non Flectar'.
Just the three metal hatch covers to add and final weathering and finish, including the fuselage nail lines.
Then onto the wings,
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/legend.jpg)
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Absolutely fantastic detailed modelling going on here. I am lost for words....
Stephen.
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Really Much better than the original attempt using the decals. Stripes and Lettering look awesome!
RAGIII
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Super work!
:o :o :o
von B
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Wow!
The fuselage stripes are now like the real ones!
Fantastic finishing.
Roberto
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Wow Mike , Awesome 8)
Terri
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Hi all,
I'm calling the fuselage finished.
I discarded the three circular photo-etch hatches and instead made them from 0.2 mm thick plastic card, with 'dimples' to represent the securing screws.
The windscreen was fitted and I've scuffed the underside roundel to represent water wear.
The fuselage was given a weathering coat of Dark Dirt clay wash 'Flory Models' to represent general grime, especially as crew and mechanics had to walk on the cockpit decking.
It was then sealed with 'Alclad' Light Sheen (ALC-311) lacquer.
A second light wash of White was applied to give an indication of salt spray and to highlight the fuselage panel nail lines, then sealed again.
Now onto the wings,
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/fusdone1.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/fusdone2.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/fusdone3.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/fusdone4.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/fusdone5.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/fusdone6.jpg)
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Continuing to be a build with your usual great attention to details and spectacular execution. A joy to observe.
-
Details and painting are Outstanding as always!
RAGIII
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This is shaping up to be one of your best results yet.
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Hi all,
The propeller is finished.
Hand made wood laminate special from 'ProperPlane'.
Airbrushed with 'Alclad' Light Sheen (ALC-311) with a few drops'Tamiya' Hull Red (XF9).
Tip sheathing, which was either Copper, Tin or Mondel (Copper-Nickel Alloy) - brush painted 'Mr. Colour' Copper (219).
Propeller bosses brush painted with 'Mr. Colour' Stainless Steel (213).
Final sealing coat of 'Tamiya' Clear Orange (X26).
Propeller bosses coated with 'AK Interactive' Kersosene (AK2039).
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/propdone.jpg)
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Proper Plane sure does make a beautiful propeller! It will look outstanding on your gorgeous build!
RAGIII
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Wow!
The fuselage stripes are now like the real ones!
Fantastic finishing.
Roberto
Hi Roberto,
I wonder if you clarify something for me.
I'm about to apply the Clear Doped Linen (CDL) onto the upper surfaces of the Macchi M.5 wings.
I know that some aircraft had the upper surfaces of the wings coloured green, but many had just CDL with no colour applied.
The aircraft I'm building had the CDL covering.
Those aircraft with green surfaces had the full green, white and red Italian roundels painted on.
If you look at the photographs below of Macchi's with CDL wing covering, you can clearly see the wing rib tapes show dark over the wing surface, due to the rib tapes being applied on top of the CDL covering.
Normally the roundels would have been painted on after the wing covering was completed and the paint would have covered the rib tapes under the roundels.
However, the rib tapes also show over the Italian roundels, but it seems only over the white ring area of the roundels, not over the outer green or centre red circles.
I wonder if this is because aircraft with CDL covering did not have the white rings painted, but just the green and red.
That would account for the rib tapes showing where the white ring would have been painted.
I can't find any reference to this.
I suppose the apparent rib tapes could be shadows cast from the raised wing ribs?
What do you think?
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/ribcdl1.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/ribcdl2.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/ribcdl3.jpg)
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Hi Mike!
Your study/question put some doubts in what here in Italy we stated about markings on M.5.
The CDL used by Macchi was much close to white, you may see it on the Macchi Nieuports 11 of the series 1000 range. In modelling field, you may have the right shade mixing 50% of Humbrol 41 Ivory with 50% Humbrol 22 White.
This made in the photos the national white color indistinguishable from Macchi's CDL. Again, NO ONE of our aircraft had central section of undersurfaces of wings painted white due to same fact.
The last photo that you posted is the one that make great doubt. The serial is 7240, not so far from yours, and the white of the fuselage roundels clearly stands out more than the one on wings. And, of course, your M.5 had CDL wings, when I built mine I was sure that had green covered wing so I didn't study the thing.
The color of the wing rib tapes I think that you may see under the white as over CDL, first of your photo made another question: why I see the rib tapes only IN the roundel?
Unlucky no M.5 survived to distruction, so we don't have nothing as sure reference.
At least, and I'm sorry for that, I can't say for sure if the central ring on wings was white or CDL. I think that no one can't say something against your choice with proofs, I know that a piece of fabric from an L.3 survived until today (I never saw) and no more than this.
I apologize because this time I can't help in a sure way to your building.
Cheers,
Roberto
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Hi Roberto,
Once again thanks - your information has proved invaluable.
Although it can't be proved for certain, I think the Macchi 'near white' covering is the way to go on this model.
As you pointed out the 'white' inner ring on the wing roundels does seem to match the wing covering and is lighter than that on the fuselage roundels.
As for the rib tapes, I think they are darker as they are linen over linen.
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/ribtapeinstructions.jpg)
I'm using linen effect decals from 'Aviattic', so have ordered the nearest matching decal to the colour.
The roundel outer green and inner red I'll paint, leaving the linen 'white' ring visible.
Thanks,
Mike
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I recognise that image ;D
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Yup - that's why this forum is the best - plenty of help and advice :)
Mike
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Hi Mike,
I was looking at the rear cover of the Datafile dedicated to the M.5 (do you have it?), with three color profiles.
Representing the M.5 of STV Ivo Ravazzoni, the one with eagle's head on fuselage, the artist on the plan view seems that choose a "middle way".
The white circles seems more near to CDL than white. Maybe he had some right doubts as you?
I'm a fan of Aviattic products, I think Richard really "broke the market" with his approach.
The "linen" series is a real welcomed add. Looking at the colors, maybe ATT32044 and ATT32045 seems those you need.
Cheers!
Roberto
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Hi Roberto,
Great minds think alike ;)
I have that publication and I did look at those colour profiles, which is another reason why I wondered about the colour.
I have already ordered the ATT32044 decal sheet for the CDL.
Right or wrong at least we are both on the same track,
Mike
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Oh yes Mike!
In the Linen page of Aviattic, in the examples there is an M.5 too, same kit as yours.
With full colors roundel...
Maybe Richard in future may use some photos of yours...
Roberto
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Hi Roberto,
Hmmmm :)
Yes Richard has photographs of five of my models in his gallery, but there are so many great models shown there,
Mike
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Hi all,
I've started working on the wings.
The wings were covered in Clear Doped Linen (CDL), but of a much lighter, almost white' finish.
Photographs of the aircraft show darker ribs tapes over the lighter covering, which I'm assuming was because the rib tapes were effectively double thickness linen.
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/ribbing.jpg)
The wing were primed with 'AK interactive' white AK-759.
The wing spars were masked off and airbrushed with thinned 'Tamiya' Smoke (X19).
The masking was removed and the internal cross bracing wires drawn on with a pencil.
Pre-shading was then airbrushed with thinned 'Tamiya' Smoke (X19).
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/wing1.jpg)
The wing was lightly airbrushed with the white primer to tone down the pre-shading and spars.
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/wing2.jpg)
The raised detail was then lightly sanded to highlight the wing ribs and outer edges.
The whole wing was then sealed with 'Alclad' Aqua Gloss (ALC-600).
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/wing3.jpg)
'Aviattic' clear Bleached CDL (ATT32044) was used to cover the wing.
The same decal, cut into 2 mm strips was used to cover the rib tapes.
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/wing4.jpg)
This is a long tedious job as both sides of the upper and lower wing need to be treated this way, but hopefully it'll have the desired effect.
I still have the roundels and markings to apply, plus any final weathering and a sealing coat of semi-matte to finish.
Mike
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Interesting effect on the wings, Mike.
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Terrific effect on the ribs,wiring, and spars Mike. The Aviattic decals certainly lend themselves to this effect!
RAGIII
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My goodness. I did a search on that decal material and wow, what will they think of next. I have been out of this part of the hobby a long time. It looks from your description and photos that you took an interesting product several steps further and really ended up with a totally accurate finish. Now that is some Master Modeling if I've ever seen it. The Pegasus 1:72 Macchi M-5 kit on the stash shelf behind me agrees wholeheartedly; I told it to be quiet. :-)
sp
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The extra effort on the Aviatic material may be tedious Mike, however the effect is quite striking, it's excellent work! Like all of your projects this one is a spectacular model, my compliments!
Cheers,
Lance
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Hi all,
Thanks - I try.
Out of interest here's a shot of the various parts that are WIP.
I've yet to add the rib tapes,
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/group.jpg)
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Your wings and tail look awesome! Beautiful work.
RAGIII
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Interesting way on doing the wings Mike , nice effect so far .
Terri
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excellent job Mike, and thank you for sharing your technique. I am sure we will all make good use of that. Regards, Pete in RI
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Hi all,
Slight change of plan regards the upper wing roundels.
My intention was to mask and paint the roundel outer green and inner red only, leaving the applied CDL and rib tapes showing where the roundel white inner circle would have been.
However, with a CDL decal layer and rib tape decals over that, I found that even with two sealing coats, the masking started to lift the decals from the wing surface.
I was able to remove the paint with thinners as I'd given the CDL decals two coats of sealer, so that prevented the thinners attacking the decals.
So plan B - first apply the kit decals, despite the fact the inner ring is too white for my liking.
Actually as the decals are translucent, they do allow 'see through' of the wing rib tapes and spar, which is a bonus.
Then cut a 'white' ring from the CDL decal sheet and apply it onto the white roundel ring, which will tone it down and match more closely the surrounding CDL.
Then I can apply the CDL rib tapes and hopefully highlight the covered wing spar with a pigment dusting - we'll see.
The 'ghost' roundels I'll create on the underside of the upper wing will be masked and painted, as the CDL decal and rib tapes need to be applied over the roundel.
Mike
This shot is the basic kit roundel applied and before the CDL inner ring is added.
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/toproundels.jpg)
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Excellent!
RAGIII
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Gee Mike,this is not the smoothest build,your tenacity and adaptability to the issues is quite inspiring,I've decided to get on to a couple of shelf of doom projects when I complete my 2 current ones;thanks for the motivation.
Cheers,
Dave.
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Thanks guys.
Dave:
Yes the last four models of mine have all had their issues, either from the basic kit or of my own doing (modifying, correcting etc).
This one is no exception, but as we say 'we're modellers, not kit builders'.
Mike
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This one is no exception, but as we say 'we're modellers, not kit builders'.
Mike
I like that one
Richard
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Hi all,
I think that's as far as I can take the top roundels.
Moving on now to the undersides of both wings.
That means red and green outer areas with CDL centre sections and 'ghost' roundels' under the upper wing.
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/toproundels2.jpg)
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Kind of after-the-fact I know, but would it have been feasable to cut the white ring out of the decal and just apply the red and green? regards, Pete in RI
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Kind of after-the-fact I know, but would it have been feasable to cut the white ring out of the decal and just apply the red and green? regards, Pete in RI
Yes I had considered trying that.
To accurately cut out the white ring from the roundel decal would require a circular cutter.
I have a 'thinnerline' circle cutter, similar to the 'DSPIAE' circle cutter.
However cutting the ring out of the roundel would doubtless cause the decal to chip or tear.
Also it would have been extremely difficult to centre the cutter accurately over the centre of the decal to achieve an accurate circular cut.
Lastly, once one cut had been made, you'd end up with two separated decals, which would make it very difficult to make a second circular cut to leave just the green ring and the red centre disc.
Instead I applied the whole decal to the wing - CDL decal sheet taped down on cutting mat - engineers square taped down to act as aligner for the cutter - first cutting the centre (red) disc, followed by cutting the outer edge of the ring. Each cut was tested first on paper until the correct size was set.
Mike
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Whatever the method used you have achieved terrific results!
RAGIII
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Certainly has. And congrats on the contest wins I read in the GWSIG newsletter.
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Thankyou :)
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Hey Mike , the rundels turned super ! Very nice effect , most impressive :)
Terri
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A big amount of surplus work, you're sure a great modeller.
My mouth is still open...
Roberto
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Hi all,
Many thanks.
I've nearly completed the wings, so I'll post up some shots later today,
Mike
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Nice results on the roundels, Mike. Good problem solving.
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Hi all,
The wings and tail plane/elevators are finished.
The underside of the upper wing has 'ghost' roundels visible from the roundels on the top surface - created with masks and airbrushed..
The heat deflector panel (for engine exhausts) on the inboard left wing painted with 'Alclad' Steel on black primer.
Final weathering applied using 'Flory' fine clay wash.
Surface finish airbrushed with 'Alclad' Light Sheen,
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/wingdone1.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/wingdone2.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/wingdone6.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/wingdone3.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/wingdone4.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/wingdone5.jpg)
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All I can say is your results are Brilliant!
RAGIII
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I second what Rick has written.
Stephen.
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Mike , your best yet !
Terri
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Hi all,
The fin and rudder are now finished.
The kit decals were not used, but instead airbrushed.
The CDL covering and rib tapes were applied as for the wings.
'Flory Models' fine clay wash (Dark Dirt) applied for weathering.
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/finruddone.jpg)
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Mike,
That fin looks like a relic found in a museum. Very realistic.
Kevin
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Fantastic results - it’s a beautiful plane (although the kit seems challenging based on your log (and Des’s). Cheers Matt
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Thanks guys.
Indeed the kit is a challenge and not one for the faint hearted.
Even 'Des' found it to be close to being thrown at a wall.
I'm getting close to the biggest problem area thus far - mounting the wings and struts.
I need to see if the struts, particularly the centre engine supports, will allow the wings to fit and align correctly, before I commit to their assembly.
In the same way, I need to see if the engine assembly can be fitted within the centre support struts.
There are two interplane 'V' struts, two fuselage to engine 'Z' struts and two engine to upper wing 'Z' struts,
All of these, plus the four wing halves and engine fairing with engine all need to be dry fitted to check their fitment.
A case of many hands and steady hands needed!!
Mike
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Hi Mike,
the fin/rudder are really beautiful, you have obtained right shades of red and green.
In your shoes I will think to build an alignement jig for assembly wings and struts toghether.
In the M.5 not a simple task, as you wrote. In 1/72 I used this one, homemade:
(https://www.modellismopiu.net/m+gallerie/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=1324360)
My two cents!
Roberto
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Hi Roberto,
Yes I think I may have to resort to a jig of some sort.
Normally I never use alignment jigs but this model, especially the centre struts with the engine, will need somethng,
Mike
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The fin and rudder looks like the real thing! I am sure with your skills you will get the struts and wing alignment sorted!
RAGIII
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Hi all,
And the lower wing floats.
The kit supplies the earlier 'hull' shaped wing floats. which were attached directly to the underside of the lower wing.
Also supplied are the later 'ski' type wing floats, which were attached to the underside of the lower wing with support struts.
Once again no surprise that the kit does not supply the support struts, just the floats!!
I made the support struts from soldered micro-tube and chiselled recesses into the underside of the lower wing so the floats are correctly positioned, taking into account the 3 degrees of wing dihedral angle.
Some Macchi M.5 aircraft had wing floats of just varnished wood, others had markings such as Italian roundels, white discs etc.
This particular Macchi M.5 had the Italian tricolours applied, similar to that of the fin.
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/floats3.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/floats7.jpg)
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Excellent work as always Mike!
RAGIII
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Hello,
I really like the painting of your wings.
Aren't the floats a little short?
I look forward to see the rest.
Regards
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Hmmmm - good spot :-\
You are quite correct - they are too short and having re-checked against drawings, the sides towards the front should be tapered in as well.
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/floatdraw1.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/floatdraw2.jpg)
Hey-ho, back to the drawing board ;D
Mike
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Really sorry.
But you're going to do it. She will be even more beautiful.
I had cut mine and add a piece in the middle. Obviously at 1/32 it will be different.
(http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii308/huberlu/Photo184.jpg)
Regards
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No problem - I'm glad you noticed it ;)
As the micro-tube struts are already fitted and match the recesses in the wing, I didn't want to start from scratch.
Also, because of the struts, I can't really cut and insert an extension.
So I'm trying with stepping the top and bottom surfaces and adding 0.5 mm thick plastic card.
The bottom of the floats first have a packing piece of plastic card to help create the shallow curve on that surface.
Once that's done I should be able to fill the sides then final sand it all to shape.
We'll see
Mike
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Hi all,
Macchi M.5 wing floats - Mk.2
Not perfect but I think close to the correct size etc.
The second shot shows the floats test fitted to the underside of the lower wing halves,
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/floats72.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/floats9.jpg)
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Correction well done!
I really like it!
Now go straight to the end without new problems!
Roberto
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Exceptional recovery Mke! Looks even better than the first ones!
RAGIII
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Hi all,
The upper wing has now been joined and the lower wings secured to the fuselage (with the required 3 degrees of dihedral angle)
The shots below show the upper wing dry fitted with only the unfinished 'V' interplane struts located.
The unfinished engine is just positioned onto the fuselage 'Z' support struts.
The two upper 'Z' struts from the engine bearers to the underside of the upper wing still need to be drilled into the bearers and upper wing.
NOTE: The unfinished engine is positioned further rearwards than it will be when finally fitted.
So far both wings appear to be correctly aligned when viewed from the top and sides.
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/testfit1.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/testfit2.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/testfit3.jpg)
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How do you say SCHWEEET! in Italian?
sp
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Really looks Fantastic. You are a Modeling engineer!
RAGIII
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This is turning out to be my favorite , Wow Mike , fantastic so far !
Terri
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Hi all,
The ‘Isotta Fraschini V4B’ six cylinder engine for the Macchi M.5 is more or less completed.
There are engine controls and pipes to add, but these can't be done until the engine is fitted to the model.
The only change I made was to replace the spark plugs and leads I'd made with I think better versions.
The plugs are 0.5 mm diameter tube with 'RB Motion' Aluminium nuts at the base. The HT leads are 0.2 mm diameter lead wire.
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/engdone1.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/engdone2.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/engdone3.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/engdone4.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/engdone5.jpg)
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So. how does she idle?
What?? that's a plastic model!
That is a lovely engine Mike. Goes well with the rest of this masterpiece.
sp
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Thanks - haven't tried yet - no oil in the sump ;D
-
Your engine is completely inline with the rest of your Superb build.
RAGIII
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Great modeling continues. The engine, the corrected floats. I am truly impressed.
-
Your engine is completely inline with the rest of your Superb build.
RAGIII
'engine is completely inline' - ;D I see what you did there ;)
Mike
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She's a true beauty !!!
-
Fantastic looking engine. Good upgrade to the spark plugs.
Continuing to follow along.
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Great work Mike, love that engine. Your PDF build log on the Tripe is proving to be a great help to me btw.
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Thanks Richie - glad it's of some use,
Mike
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Hi all,
The kit illustration showing the rigging for the engine support 'Z' struts is wrong.
It shows correctly bracing rods fitted midway up the struts and routed across the fuselage between the front and rear struts of the two 'Z' struts.
What is not correct is that it shows a bracing rod fitted along the left and right sides of the 'Z' struts, spanning the front, centre and rear struts of each.
In reality all three bracing rods were fitted across the fuselage between the rear struts, centre struts and front struts.
I've pre-rigged both 'Z' struts, which will be finally rigged once fitted to the fuselage,
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/strutrigprep.jpg)
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You certainly have an Eye for the details Mike! I envy that ability 8) The strut rigging looks outstanding as always!
RAGIII
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Good knowledge Mike, mightily impressed by your fastidious attention to detail. Builds like this are a great form of online tutorial for me, enjoying following your work. :)
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Hi all,
The engines bottom support frame is complete.
The rigging is 0.12 mm diameter mono-filament, with 0.5 mm tube and 'Gaspatch' 1:48th scale Type C turnbuckles.
The three bracing cross bars are 0.4 mm diameter tube, with twelve end brackets from twelve plates (item 43) from (‘PART’ photo-etch for Fokker Dr.1 -S32-023).
The bars have an ‘RB Motion’ Aluminium Nuts Hex 0.79mm (1281-A) at each end.
The struts are reinforced with solid steel rods, so careful drilling through struts was required to avoid hitting them with the drill!!
On this particular aircraft, the wind driven pressure pump for the fuel system was mounted on the centre cross bar.
I discard the kit supplied photo-etch item and made a pump from sprue and a propeller from the 'spares' box.
Next up is to fit the engine then add the various controls and pipes to the engine, including those from the cockpit and fuselage fuel tank.
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/strutrigprep4.jpg)
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Wonderful! ;)
Kent
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Amazingly detailed work, brilliant!
-
Can't wait to see the engine mounted into the supports , really excellent job on the details Mike 8)
Terri
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Hi all,
Well just for a change ----
The lower engine support 'Z' struts support the radiator/engine cowl and the engine itself.
When I test fitted the lower 'Z' struts into the fuselage, I found they were leaning rearwards when in fact they should be perpendicular to the fuselage.
Therefore I 'tweaked' them to correct that.
A second pair of 'Z' struts are bolted to the front and rear struts and span up and forwards to attach to the underside of the upper wing, forming the central support structure.
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/engsupstruts.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/engsupstruts2.jpg)
I decided not to use the kit supplied upper ‘Z’ struts and replace them with struts created from micro-tube and rod, for the following reasons:
The photo-etch engine bearer plates and top of the lower engine ‘Z’ support struts have no locations for attaching the upper engine ’Z’ struts.
When test fitted into the location holes in the underside of the upper wing I found that the bottom of the struts on the two upper ‘Z’ struts were way too far rearwards and therefore not aligned with the tops of the lower ‘Z’ strut assembly, to which they should be attached (probably due to my correction of the lower 'Z' struts).
The actual upper ‘Z’ struts were made of three separate struts, not one combined assembly as provided with the kit parts.
To do this I drilled three 0.5 mm diameter holes through the lower 'Z' struts and the photo-etch engine bearer plates.
Then I created four support rods from 0.5 mm brass rod.
Finally I created four brass aerofoil sections that slid onto the support rods.
The upper wing now locates correctly onto the wing 'V' struts and the created brass struts.
Now I have to create the single struts that span between the top of the rear struts and the bottom of the front struts.
Remember - modelling is meant to be fun ;)
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/strutmountingholes.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/strutrigprep6.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/strutrigprep7.jpg)
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Mike,
Absolutely amazing work, this is the modeller's art in a whole new dimension! I am really enjoying (and learning from) this magical journey you are on!
Cheers,
Lance
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Hi all,
Thanks for the encouraging comments - for this build I need them ;)
I made the cross struts in the same manner but the locating rods for these struts were soft soldered for strength.
A 0.5 mm diameter hole needs to be drilled into the underside of the upper to locate the top of the struts,
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/strutrigprep8.jpg)
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Continuing to be a master modelling!
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Continuing to be a master modelling!
Yep! I agree 100%
RAGIII
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Hi all,
I've added radiator cowl support struts (0.5 mm diameter Nickel-Silver tube).
Also the air pressurisation pipe (for fuel tank) between wind driven pump and the fuselage fuel tank. Made from 'PlusModel' 0.3 mm lead wire.
Now to do are:
The auxiliary pipe between the fuselage and the intake manifolds.
The throttle control rod from the cockpit to the two carburettors.
The fuel supply pipe between the fuselage fuel tank and pipe between the engine carburettors.
Oil pressure pipe between the engine and the cockpit gauge.
Magneto wiring from cockpit starter magneto to engine.
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/radstrut.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/pressurepipe.jpg)
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My god , you just keep surprising us Mike :)
Terri
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Hi all,
I've attempted to represent the various controls from the cockpit to the engine.
Given the limitations of the model (especially after so many alterations) and a lack of information, some 'poetic license' was employed.
The control runs from the cockpit to the engine were routed up the right, forward strut and were protected by a canvas cover, which was stitched up the trailing edge.
That accounts for why that strut always appears larger than the opposite strut.
However, I chose to show the controls, rather than have just a solid thick strut, which is what the kit supplies.
The auxiliary pipe from between the fuel the intake manifolds (0.5 mm Nickel-Silver tube with 0.8 mm brass tube connection).
The throttle control rod from the cockpit to the two carburettors (0.2 mm Nickel-Silver rod - throttle lever and support from 'spare' photo-etch).
The fuel supply pipe from the fuselage fuel tank to pipe between the engine carburettors (0.5 mm Nickel-Silver tube with 0.8 and 1.0 mm brass tube connection).
Oil pressure pipe from cockpit exit to engine (‘Model Factory Hire' (MFH) 0.4 mm black tube).
Cockpit starter Magneto wiring from cockpit exit to engine magnetos (‘Model Factory Hire' (MFH) 0.4 mm black tube).
Now it's onto prepping the rigging before the upper wing is fitted,
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/strutcover.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/contdone1.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/contdone2.jpg)
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You are a Modeling Maniac ::) I Love your Detailing!
RAGIII
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Hi all,
Thanks.
On the homeward stretch now.
The upper wing with pre-rigged lines, has now been fitted.
That included of course the scratch made struts - tricky but done.
The tail unit (fin/rudder and elevators) has also been fitted.
There's a way to go before the aircraft is finished, let alone the figure and display base.
Some of the things needed include the necessary paint touch-ups, final rigging, tail plane support struts (scratch), attach wing floats, gun sight, upper wing vent pipe (radiator).
One last major job left to do are the wing outer bracing struts, which as usual, are not supplied in the kit.
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/tailwingon.jpg)
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Your Boat is really Looking the Part Now Mike! Another stunning update!
RAGIII
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What a complete show stopper, stunning work! :)
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Hi all,
My wife is a cake maker in her spare time and has built up a large collection of tools she needs.
I mentioned to her that as this model is resin with a solid moulded fuselage and wings, it is now pretty heavy.
Also as the surfaces are sealed it's becoming tricky to hold such a large model during the final stages of the build.
She came up with this - it's a raised (5 inches) turntable of 9 inch diameter that can be locked either tilted or horizontal.
It also has a non-slip surface.
Clever girl ;)
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/cakestand.jpg)
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Hi Mike!
Your "monster" is about to take the sea!
Great work with piping and connections, of course is your personal choice to show them on right forward engine strut,
because original had the "larger" version of the strut.
But, at least, your M.5 is a beauty!
Roberto
P.S.:...and you've married the right girl! ;) ;D
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Did you write that this is 1/16 scale? I am blown away (again) reading throough this thread - the amount of detail that you manage to pack into such tiny spaces is amazing.
Stephen.
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Hi Mike!
Your "monster" is about to take the sea!
Great work with piping and connections, of course is your personal choice to show them on right forward engine strut,
because original had the "larger" version of the strut.
But, at least, your M.5 is a beauty!
Roberto
P.S.:...and you've married the right girl! ;) ;D
Hi Roberto,
Yes the 'larger' right strut was covered with canvas or lined to protect the pipes and controls attached to that strut. I have pictures that show the covering either torn of partly undone.
I thought it would be a waste of time adding detail to the cockpit and the engine and not shown the connections between them on the strut.
Besides it was another challenge,
Mike
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Hi all,
These are not very good shots but I thought I'd post up the rigging installed, along with the wing floats.
There's a bit of painting to do then it's onto rigging and bracing the tail unit,
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/frontrig1.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/frontrig2.jpg)
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All you need is some petrol in the tank and take her up , At this point now it would surprise me if there was petrol in the tank ;) .
Awesome work so far Mike :)
Terri
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So beatuiful! One of those models where you can start a metre or so away from it and admire the look of it and the start going closer and closer only to discover more and more details! Fantastic work and presentation of it!
/Fredrik
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Superb rigging and the floats look Great!
RAGIII
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Hi all,
Thanks.
Here's a few more shots of the rigging.
I'm currently working on making the wing outer bracing struts, which strangely are not supplied with the kit.
They're being made from 0.9 mm diameter tube with 0.5 mm rod internal support rods, as were the tail plane support struts, which are also not supplied in the kit.
As with the created wing upper 'Z' struts, the tubes will be slightly flattened to an aerofoil shape.
Not an easy job as the model is large and tricky to handle.
Also the struts can't really be created until the model is assembled, in order to be able to cut the tubes to the correct length.
Hopefully the bracing frames will be soft soldered together with protruding 0.5 mm rods for locating pins - we'll see,
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/outerwingstruts.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/frontrig3.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/frontrig4.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/frontrig5.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/tailrig1.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/tailrig2.jpg)
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It does seem ODD that those struts are not included. Like I said before your rigging looks excellent!
RAGIII
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Yes especially when you consider the cost of the kit.
Our 'Des' had the same problem on his build of the model.
My kit didn't have these outer bracing struts, any of the wing/aileron/fin or rudder locating rods or the tail plane support struts.
It also had a missing rigging cover (should be two), the engine detail/parts were incorrect and the integral steel support rods inside the resin struts were all off centre.
Definitely not a kit for less experienced modellers, unless of course they're up for the challenge ;)
Mike
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Wow!
Tail section is a jewel!
You made nail's heads on wooden cover! Fantastic!
Roberto
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Hi all,
I've some progress on the wing outer bracing struts, which are not supplied with the kit.
Created from 0.9 mm diameter tube, formed into an aerofoil shape and with internal 0.5 mm locating rods soft soldered.
Beforehand the locating holes of 0.6 mm diameter were drilled into the upper and lower wings.
I've still got the central cross bars to do, but nearly there,
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/outerstruts3.jpg)
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/outerstruts4.jpg)
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Perfection!
RAGIII
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Thumbs up Mike 8)
Terri
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Hi all,
As the aircraft model is more or less finished, I've started on the pilot figure.
The figure is the ‘Allarmi’ WW1 Aces of Italian A.F. (32063).
The figure had a walking cane in the right hand, but I've removed that as I intend to have the figure leaning against the fuselage.
I also chose to use the head without flying helmet and goggles, as the aircraft will be on its beaching trolley and trestles (so not about to fly).
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/figure1.jpg)
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The figure looks nicely sculpted Mike. I am looking forward to seeing it painted!
RAGIII
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Some exceptional work, Mike! And a beautiul blog to watch with so many useful techniques.. Well done! Marc.
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Hi all,
The pilot figure has been painted.
With that done the Macchi M.5 model is now finished, apart from setting it up on its display base.
Thanks to everyone who followed this journey and for your encouraging comments on what turned out to be a 'challenging' build.
A special thanks to Louis (huberlu) and Roberto (AndRoby67) for their input.
I'll be posting up the completed model photographs once the display is done, which hopefully will not be long,
Mike
(http://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/MACCHI-M5/pilotdone.jpg)
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Excellent work on the pilot Mike. Thanks for another great build and Log!
RAGIII
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Hi Mike!
Glad to see that you are on the deadline of this beautiful project!
Good work also on external thin struts!
So you placed Fulco Ruffo di Calabria on a seaplane? ;) ;D
Well done at every level!
Roberto
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Thanks.
Roberto:
Well he was Italian after all ;D
Did you get my PM?
Mike
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The finished model is now up in the 'Completed Models' page.
Mike