Macchi M-5

[RAGIII]

A very good reason for detailing the engine. Fantastic work!
RAGIII

[Mike Norris (UK)]

Hi Roberto,
Thanks - I was aware of that problem with the propeller tips not clearing the trough in the fuselage.
'Des' also had the same problem when he built this model.
I'm not using the kit propeller, but instead have arranged for 'Alex' at 'ProperPlane' to make me a wood laminate replace propeller.
He has the dimensions required so hopefully I won't need to modify the fuselage.

Strange how both 'HPH Models' and 'Pegasus' had the same problem?

Mike

[Mike Norris (UK)]

Hi all,
On the side of the engine crank case and between the two carburettors is a blanking plate.
I believe this plate was fitted to seal what was previously the oil filler pipe for the engine sump, but not used on this version of the engine.

To represent this blanking plate, I cut a disc of approximately 2.5 mm diameter from 0.2 mm thick plastic card and secure it in position on the sump using thin CA adhesive.







Two oil filler pipes were used to replenish oil in the engine sump and were located on the engine crank case on the opposite side from the carburettors. Each was fitted with a cap.   

Two 2.5 mm diameter discs were cut from 0.2 mm plastic card and secured on the sump.
The centre of each disc and into the sump were gradually drilled up to 1.3 mm diameter.
To represent these filler pipes, 0.8 mm diameter rod was slide into 1.2 mm tube. The tubes were annealed then bent to the required angle.
One end was roll cut to remove the outer tube leaving rod exposed. The other end was cut completely through.
2.0 mm plastic rod was cut to to create two 5 mm lengths and a 0.9 mm diameter hole drilled through the centre of each.
These were attached on the exposed 0.8 mm rods and secured with CA adhesive.
The top of the 'caps' were then filed down to a height of 1.5 mm and sanded around the top edge..
Lastly the two 'filler pipes' were secured in the crank case holes with CA adhesive,

Mike

[RLWP]

Mike, how do you cut such small disks?

Richard

[Mike Norris (UK)]

Hi Richard,
I use a circle cutter.
Basically it's a engineering bearing held in a circular housing.
It has a sliding cutter that can be locked in any position across the cutter.
You set the size of cut you want then place the cutter over plastic card and hold it in position.
Then just turn the cutter in circles inside its housing.
The blade follows the circular motion and is sprung loaded, so cuts through the plastic card.

The one I use was from China - 'Thinner Line Cutter'



Since then others have released similar cutters - 'DSPIAE Circle Cutter' is one, although fairly expensive,
Check out 'YouTube' for videos on these cutters,

Mike

[AndRoby67]

Hi Mike!
Yes, too strange that all the kits, despite scale, have same problems!
The thinner line cutter to cut small circles is a great suggestion!
Thank you!
Roberto
 

[kensar]

Interesting!  I bet I could make one of those...

Thanks for showing it, Mike.

[RAGIII]

I did not realize that those cutters could go that small. I will have to think about getting one!
RAGIII

[Mike Norris (UK)]

Hi all,
A few more updates for the carburettors and induction manifolds.
Hollowed out the air intakes at the bottom of the carburettors.
The induction manifolds cut/joins have been filled.
Added the carburettor barrels (made from a tooth pick).
Added 0.5 mm diameter plastic rod into the induction manifolds and carburettor barrels to represent the interconnecting fuel supply pipe and auxiliary pipe.
Added control lever for the throttle butterfly valves in the induction manifolds (control rods to added later).
Added three nuts to each intake manifold header pipe.

Obviously it all needs cleaning up and priming, but for now I'll move onto creating the 12 spark plugs,

Mike

[Alexis]

Tooth pic's hey , neat 


Terri

[Mike Norris (UK)]

Hi all,
Twelve spark plugs with ignition leads.
Made from 0.5 mm diameter tube with 0.28 mm diameter copper wire (annealed) leads.
Fitted into 0.6 mm diameter holes drilled into both sides of each cylinder bank.

Now it's onto the really tricky valve operating gear,

Mike

[RAGIII]

Superb!
RAGIII

[Mike Norris (UK)]

Hi all,
I've been working the last few days on ways to better represent the valve operating gear for this engine, as the kit supplied photo-etch is not very realistic.
After trying converted photo-etch, card and other methods, I decided to go with this.
This is not meant to accurately 'reproduce' the engines valve gear, but more to 'represent' it as the kit engine does not lend itself easily to this modification.

The operating levers are made as two separate levers from 0.5 mm thick plastic card.
The levers are shaped then joined at the centre and secured to their individual operating shafts.
The bottom of the push rods were marked on the engine then drilled with a 0.6 mm diameter drill.
Nickel-Silver rod of 0.4 mm diameter was cut and secured in each drilled hole and against the end of the levers.
Finally a 0.51 mm hexagonal nut (from 'RB Motions' was added to the top of each rod.

Once all of the push rods are done I need to add the pivot lever between each pair of rods.
 
Mike

[FAf]

I was first reading this while resting after a run at the gym and realised that you can't read these posts unless you're focused enough! They are far too demanding for that! 🤓 With focus they are great fun and also very inspiring!
/Fredrik

[Alexis]

Those details are coming along great 


Terri