Special Hobby Vildebeest

[Bughunter]

I would do that on a larger model, but in 1/72 the struts are so thin I can’t see how that’s possible.. I guess I could replace the struts with brass rod and make a hole in the wing to take the whole thing, but I’d lose any tapering.

Guy, you can try to use:
- 0,2mm or 0,3mm nickel silver and a bigger micro brass tube, may be 0,5 0,6mm or 0,7mm (depends how big the struts should be)
- cut the tube to the length of the strut
- put the 0,2mm into the tube and squeeze the tube near to flat (minimum thickness is then 0,4mm)
- if you cut the wire near to the end of the struts -> pins to secure the struts
- now drill small holes (found 0,2x micro drills on ebay), glue the pins with CA in and you have a robust construction, where you can adjust the struts even after

Have done that here (wire was 0,4mm brass), also a Special Hobby kit, in 1/48:


I hope my explanation is good enough

Cheers,
Frank

[Gisbod]

That’s amazing Frank!

If you can post me a set for the Wildebeest that would be great 

Will definitely have a play with this..

Guy

[Mike Norris]

Hi Guy,
As Frank says, this is a good way to create stronger struts.
I did this for all of the struts on my Fokker E.V and SPAD X.III (1:32 scale) and used 'Albion Alloy's' micro-tubes and rod.
I also used their 'Strutter' tool, which is basically a pair of hardened vice jaws with two steel guide pins. The rod is inserted into the tube across the two pins then when the vice is tightened, the tube is wrapped around the rod to form the strut. Then I soft solder inside the tube for additional strength.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4o10w7aVmIk

Mike

[Gisbod]

Thanks Mike,

Things are beginning to appear clearer... I can see where I was going wrong at least.

Guy

[Gisbod]

My Jig arrived today...

I like it and can see it’s going to be useful, but not without a few issues:

Poor instructions, numbering of parts don’t all match.
Missing a bolt and 2 nuts
The wood is basically balsa, very fragile and I can’t see it lasting with the constant adjustments required.
The measurement scales are missing on the 2 main uprights.

I know it’s a cottage industry, and I appreciate that they make it but it still cost me £31 with postage (from www.modellingtools.co.uk).

That said, it’s perfect, just wish it was more robust.

Here’s the Vildebeest in situ (the old one - I ordered another). To be honest it’s perfectly savable, but I think I could do a better job so I don’t mind making another...







Guy

[RAGIII]

The jig looks impressive...as does the Model!
RAGIII

[Mike Norris]

Hi Guy,
I have that jig and although it's OK I found it not as versatile as the 'Kronos Third Hand' I subsequently purchased.
The main problem I found is access for rigging once the model is on the jig.
The third hand is of Metal construction and very sturdy and stable, plus the model can be orientated in any position, which is great for rigging.
It's held on the metal base plate by a very strong and switchable magnet.
The support framework is fully adjustable and the one hand screw locks the assembly, which is fully articulated.
As the model (of any scale) is held in position by the four lockable rubber tipped rods clamping the bottom wing, accessibility for rigging is unrestricted and of course you are able to use both hands.
I'm not sure if this is still available though.
Here's link to a review on YouTube,

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SgGDkXSOsvQ


Mike

[Gisbod]

Thanks Mike,

That certainly looks substantial! I’ll see how I go with the JH jig. Primarily, I just want it to set the top wing so it should fulfill that function..

Guy

[Gisbod]

Vildebeest build #2

Ok started the next one. I have to say it’s very nice, having already built one, to start again with a clear idea of what works and what doesn’t.

I’ve decided to glue it all in situ and paint afterwards. It creates a better bond without the paint and ensures it won’t be awash with glue marks on the finished cockpit.





I’ve also decided to model the slats out - as all pictures seem to show this with aircraft on the ground. I cut out the existing section of the wing and have used plastic card to re model the section. The plan is to make the slats out of plastic sheet bent to an aerofoil shape.





Fingers crossed this time! 


Guy

[Gisbod]

Evening,

Little further on. I’d thought I’d show the photo etch fret. Really top quality and pre painted seat belts:





I’ve finished the interior and closed up the fuselage. I’ve kept it really simple as you can’t see a lot once closed. But, in this scale I think it looks better without the usual washes etc. Just looks neater somehow.








Guy

[Ryan]

Glad to see you back on it Guy, you can beat it...it's not smarter than you!

Ryan

[Gisbod]

Thanks Ryan,

That’s exacrly my attitude - I will beat it!

Tried out Frank’s strut replacement method on the tailplane, and it worked a treat! I’ve also separated the rudder and elevator. I’ll pin those on at the end.












Guy

[Gisbod]

Morning,

Quite a bit further on. I’ve fixed the lower wing and had it up on the jig to fix the struts. I seriously don’t know how I coped without a jig before  . Very useful, particularly as the wings are totally square. Not sure how it would cope with a stagger. That said, I’ve yet to fix the tip wing, think I’ll do that after full painting & decalling.

So here she is so far:





I think I’ll fix all the fiddly bits of photo etch before painting to try and eliminate glue splodges!


Thanks for looking,


Guy

[Gisbod]

Ps the kit centre struts are massively out. Way too long. I can’t see how they could get it so wrong!

G

[krow113]

Back at deaths door!
 At least you recover well!
 A tool like this , easily fabbed from a small divider , helped me with measuring during strut fab and rigging:

Good luck taming the wild beast.