WNW fokker Eindecker

[Edo]

Hey Mark!
How are you going, my friend?
Yes, pencils are what I were thinking too... 

Last night I freed one side of the cockpit frame... Scary business indeed.... I used Ian suggestion but I used bluetack insted of plasticine, maybe this is why I am not completely satisfied with the results, in fact the bluetack is too soft and sticky so when you cut the frame free the bluetack sinks and the rod follow suit bending and (almost, for my luck) braking.
Anyway all went well and sanding the frame tourned out to be much less troublesome than I thougt (picture to follow).

Ciao
Edo

[kornbeef]

Edo, I actually found it easier to cut out sections of sprue sometimes before detaching the parts. Always cutting so the moulding stubs or projections in the srue point up and I tend to use a corner of the bench or mat to position things over to cut as close as possible as opposed to the flat of the bench/mat top.

I use a xacto style blade instead of clippers where things are tight to detach parts and try to work out which locations are stressed by which when cutting, meaning if you cut *a* does it casue *b* or *c* to be squashed or pulled. Often cutting out a section or stub from the sprue alleviates thi issue.

Example with the fuselage side frames I cut the 3 lower mounts with a blade, then clipped the centre run of sprue from between, then each of the four top points (the fact the section of sprue was removed meant the part could flex and not butt up against the stub and cause pressure). Then carefully cut the front mount and trimmed it so it wouldnt push when I cut the final point away.

Not trying to show anyone how to suck eggs, just my way, it worked this time 

Keith

[gcn]

I saw a tip on a build log somewhere else where someone heated a knife and melted the sprue. Never tried it myself but it might be an idea.

[Ian from Doncaster]

I agree with Keith, carefully removing parts of the sprue could help.  Alos, detaching the sprue from the weakest part of the component firts means that those bits are free of stress when it comes to detaching the other parts?

I also use a small block of wood on which I rest the sprue so that the sprue gate is flat on the wood, then use a sharp blade to snip the gate.  I suppose a combination of all methods is my approach.

When I was younger I used to just twist off the parts until the sprue gates snapped!!!! 

[Edo]

  Yes twisting was my preferred method too!!
and, actually, I sometimes still think it is the best....

the hot blade seems cool !!!  (sorry could not resiste that!!)

and also the "butcher's" block seems interesting...
I'll give it a try!

ciao
Edo

[uncletony]

.

When I was younger I used to just twist off the parts until the sprue gates snapped!!!!

Yep!

[PrzemoL]

To cut the parts from the sprue I use brandnew razor-sharp thin shaving blades. At least here in my country they are still available:
http://idrogeria.pl/show.php?id=2762
The minimal possible thickness is the key to success. I have no problems at all with possible damage. I would never use Exacto or Excel blade knives, IMHO these blades are too thick.

[Chris Johnson]

I just switched over to using scalpels and I must be applying too much pressure while simultaneously flexing the blade because I'm going through blades like never before when lopping off parts from the tree. It's a bit unsettling when they go flying but so far I haven't had to extract one from myself yet.

Cheers,

Chris

[kornbeef]

I just switched over to using scalpels and I must be applying too much pressure while simultaneously flexing the blade because I'm going through blades like never before when lopping off parts from the tree. It's a bit unsettling when they go flying but so far I haven't had to extract one from myself yet.

Cheers,

Chris

thats why I use an exacto type knife to remove parts, havin one or two near misses with a snapped blade hitting me in the face close to an eye.

[Edo]

Wow Chris!
Now, that's scary!!

[Edo]

Hi gentelmen!
I used the hot blade technique and I have to admit it works perfectly!
Thank you for the tip!

I have some update for you of the experiments I did during the week end...

Here is my attempt at the 'swirls' on the cowl:



I used a base coat of titanium silver + 10% flat black, a wash of china black ink (a 20% water dilution) and then I used a silver pencil, here is the pic of it



What do you think? I fear I have to practice more...

Next a pic of the left cockpit frame



and the engine...





... and the seat.



I was disappointed by the dash board. Its detail are very soft and my expectation were much more higher (so even WNW does not everything perfect, and this should be a great stimoulus for any competitor willing to challenge them on the market...Roden do you hear?)



so I decided to scratch build a new one, well I am very proud of the result: what do you think? (on the right habd side is the pulsameter).

[Chris Johnson]

It's all coming along nicely Edo. I haven't worked up the nerve to attempt a model build involving a swirled metal effect so I tip my hat to you for tackling it.

Cheers,

Chris

[modelguy]

Really nice work, Edo. Lovely fuel distributor panel. I'm building mine as the Marine Jasta EI as seen on the last page of Windsock DF on the EIII.

[Whiteknuckles]

Great work on the dash Edo.
Are you going to redo the cowl swirls? It sort of sounded like you might.

Andrew

[Edo]

Hi all!
Thank you for the nice comments!
Andrew, well, yes I was thinking of redoing the swirls.
Next time I'll try to make them more thin and sharp, fortunately the pencil I used is water based so I hope it will be pretty easy to remove what I did before.
Ciao
Edo