This will be the final configuration for now. It looks a little too oily because it is , this is unfinished work , but a clear and easily restarted point. The ignition advance cable and throttle cable /mech are in place and look ok to me , a bit over scale but...meh. This engine is hooked up , oil , water , lube , electrical etc. No empty fittings. I cant put alla the steps and fittings and procedures for the exposing of an engine , its a little convoluted here at the end , making lists and knocking them down helped me.
I'll throw these up , and take some more outside tomorrow:
Here are some notes for the work involved exposing a Gotha engine.
The Engine Bearers ; These can rotate along their length during curing. One of mine did , causing some grief. 2 'planks clamped across the top and bottom will keep them parallell in all planes. Rotation can be seen looking from font-back down the length of the bearer.
The Front Struts ; These are immediately in the way and in jeopardy. They are very weak in the lower end and should be installed at the same time as the side frame rails. There is a 'ball 'that is formed by the 4 parts joining , easy to see. Adding the front upper frame hoop will help shore them up from behind. A plate with the top holes laid out to pin them during assy. Red or yellow warning tape helps too.
The Rear Struts ; Removing the top rear cowl removes the mounts for these struts. Pics show the bare metal of the struts emerge from the fairings and extend down to the rear of the side frame rails. WNW has provided another set of 'balls' there , this is where those struts would mount. I'll cut off the pin at the bottom of the struts and insert a length to be determined at the introduction of the top wing.
The Engine Assy ; The procedures outlined on page 3 and 7 of this thread regarding the a/m parts used on the top end , are viable. The templates and tools created take a lot of the guess work out of the use of these parts. The colored glue mix I highly recommend , I have been handling this assy by the rocker gear for most of this work and with little other than the removal of paint from the high points , has resulted in no issues. The top water pipe will need to be modded to clear the valve gear , I was able to tweak the kit part enough , barely , others can fab a new one . I can only recommend the resin a/m parts to very experienced modellers . The engine assy will drop straight down onto its mounts, good info for the multiply numerous times the assy will need to go in/out to detail properly.
The Engine Pod Panels ; A number of options exist here to make your Gotha unique. The very top f-b panel would not be removed at all times, the panel provides a hinge mount for the lower scalloped panel to hinge up for access. These could be cut along the upwardly curved edge and 'hinged ' open. If you choose to not use the a/m engine gear this would be good for an engine start dio, and be very effective. Otherwise with good cleanup , the panels pop into place nicely. Remember to scrape the very bottom outside edges of the gas tanks , so the lower end of the panel goes all the way in. Keep the pod panels separate from each other! When it happens , you'll know why.
I'll add as I see fit to this list.
Also you may have noticed a thinning out of manufacturer's names , product names etc on this thread.
This is not a dis or any other kind of maliciously based thinking or act.
. After a session of this length a cleanup is in order . I have a comfortable stopping point and will need to get on with other work at this point.
Thanks for following along , I'll return as soon as The Gotha bug bites again.
Mess to cleanup:
