Merged: Old Shapeways-related announcements

[uncletony]

Available now and specially priced @ $13.99 thru May 17

Get it here.

Cheers

[jknaus]

So I should just transfer my pay to your account I guess?? Definately I will have to order a few of these, and some bombs, and some spinners and som..............

Awesome stuff Bo.
James

[uncletony]

Hey Facebookers,

I've got a shiny new Facebook page! if you are so inclined, stop by and give it a like to help me get the word out.

As always your support is greatly appreciated!

https://www.facebook.com/flugzeugwerke

[Pgtaylorart]

Just liked it!

[lcarroll]

So I should just transfer my pay to your account I guess?? Definately I will have to order a few of these, and some bombs, and some spinners and som..............

Awesome stuff Bo.
James

   As James has said, Bo!
   Wheels, to compliment Steve Robson's natural Rubber tires are ordered. Now you come out with this little gem!!
Well done!
Cheers,
Lance

[uncletony]

James, Lance (Cold Lakers both, right?) -- thanks so much for your support!

[RAGIII]

Looks great BO! What are the chances this would work with a Roden Alb.DIII ?
RAGIII

[uncletony]

Looks great BO! What are the chances this would work with a Roden Alb.DIII ?
RAGIII

Thanks Rick I Haven't tried it yet, but I think if one were to cut the right size hole, it should work ok. (Care to try it for me? I'll supply the radiator ) The bigger question for me is whether it will work on a D.II. I need to research whether the airfoil section of the D.I/D.II was similar to the D.III/D.V and/or whether the radiators were the same...

[bobs_buckles]

I liked it, too! 

vB

[uncletony]

Here is the blurb I have composed regarding this radiator on my product page. I wonder if anybody has anything to add or dispute, especially whether I am correct in my preposition that the shutters were rarely, if ever, fitted to T&B radiators. Also, am I correct thinking that the Daimler-Benz radiators seemed to appear somewhat later?

1:32 Teves und Braun Airfoil Radiator for Albatros D.III, D.V and D.Va

Beginning with early production models of the D.II, Albatros scouts were fitted with Teves und Braun airfoil-shaped radiators mounted in the upper wing. At the time this configuration was thought to have aerodynamic advantages over the Windhoff "ear" radiators mounted on the sides of the fuselage of the preceding D.I and earliest D.II models. Another advantage was that combat damage wouldn't immediately result in all the coolant draining from the cylinder heads, unlike the lower-mounted Windhoffs.
(Nevertheless Any damage to the radiator would certainly put the machine out of action in short enough order.)

Teves und Braun seemed to supply the majority of the radiators fitted to Johannistal-built Albatros D.IIIs and D.Vs; later on Daimler Benz supplied radiators as well and these seem to have been quite common on the D.Va and OAW-built D.IIIs. Incidentally the photographic evidence appears sparse regarding the fitting of the hand-operated shutters in conjuction with the T&B radiators; instead it seems these were exclusive, or nearly so, to the Daimler-Benz radiator equipped machines.

What's in the box?
Your Teves und Braun radiator will arrive in two parts; a single piece representing the radiator core, header tank and tower, and another sprue containing two filler caps and three intake horns. Note that only one each of the cap and horn are needed; the others are provided in case of loss or breakage.

Instructions

Preparing the parts for painting
The parts will arrive with a slightly greasy coating. This should be removed prior to painting.

To remove the coating, scrub them with a toothbrush in ordinary dish washing liquid and rinse thoroughly, or soak them for not more than 5 minutes in a small jar filled with acetone (nail polish remover). Longer exposures than 5 minutes to acetone will start to attack the fine details.

Once the waxy support material is completely removed, the parts will appear white wherever support material was needed during printing. We recommend painting the parts at this stage with a dark color such as Tamiya NATO black; this way you can see muh better what you are doing. In a few spots you will see textured areas and "steps" left over from the printing process; these can be cleaned up by carefully sanding with a sharpened fine grade sanding stick (or similar). With care this can be done without spoiling the details. A filling primer such as Mr. Surfacer 500 can be helpful too, though be careful to keep it out of the core.

Clearing the core slats
As with the prototype, we have modeled the radiator matrix to have spaces between the elements,  allowing light to shine through when viewed at just the right angle. As a side effect of the 3D printing process, these cavities will be filled with a waxy gel-like support material. The cleaning process recommended above will not be enough to open these passages.  To clean these areas, we suggest you cut pieces of 600 grit sandpaper into strips about 2mm wide and 50mm long. Make 45 degree snips at one end of each strip to form a point. Insert the strip into each slot, one at a time, by holding the sandpaper close to the point with a tweezer or fine pliers and rocking it back and forth until it goes in. Once all the way thru, flip the sandpaper to treat the opposite surface. Repeat with the remaining slats. A fresh stiff strip of paper will be easier to insert (go figure), so save yourself some time and cut lots of strips!

Assembly
Carefully cut a filler cap from the sprue and cement into the hole at the top of the header tower using CA. Cut one of the intake horns from the sprue and CA into the hole in the front of the tower. You may wish to add the mounting straps made from scrap PE, these are the same width as the left and right sides of the radiator and are approximately 2.5mm long. They were on the upper wing only, in each of the 4 corners and oriented with the airflow. You could also add a bolt head detail to each strap where it fastens to the wing. On the bottom, provision is made for you to add a drain cock in the rear of the right side wall. Check your references for these and other details.

Painting
The best information we have is that these radiators were dipped in molten solder and otherwise generally left unpainted and unfinished. Solder left unprotected will rapidly tarnish and turn to a dull grey. Like most things having to do with the Great War, there is plenty of room for interpretation. Check those references!

[uncletony]

This is ready. Shown in FUD (the slightly cheaper stuff).


compared to WNW D.V/D.Va kit spinner. Is mine the right shape? I dunno. Looks better to me though. You decide


With prop and WNW kit backplate. Prep is quick and dirty for photos -- a quick coat of Sea Gray, and a perfunctory onceover with a sanding sponge.
:


A few quick-n-dirty mockup shots:




Specially priced thru May 17: http://shpws.me/HHRV

[uncletony]

Also available in 2pack… :
http://shpws.me/HHWW

…and 4 pack:
http://shpws.me/HHX2

[uncletony]

I can't remember where I was reading it, but apparently Albatros spinners were different depending upon what prop they were going over. Once mated, the prop and spinner were then balanced together - so you might have to do a few...

Indeed they were*, and I plan on doing at least the props that I can find in WNW plastic. That's why this one is specifically marked as AXIAL. Maybe I need to make that even clearer -- other props will not fit this spinner. The openings were clearly different depending on the prop. WNW provides a(n overly) large generic opening that fits all their props. Whether the overall shape was different -- that I honestly can't work out. It is a very elusive shape, and camera parallax does not help.

*At least according to Merrill.

[uncletony]

showing air horn and filler cap installed...

[boggie]

Very Botiful!