SUPER GLUE WOES

[Modelnut]

Why does superglue sometimes instantly bond and other times take forever to cure?
 
I use the smallest drop possible, if it's too much I wick it with a paper towel. Is humidity a factor? I have central heating so my house is normally on the dry side. 

Slow curetime can be a pain when doing bracing wires!

I use mono for rigging and any regular tube superglue brand by the way.

Any answers from a modelling chemist are welcome! 

[lcarroll]

Hey Modelnut,
    I'm no modelling chemist but figure I've encountered all the problems superglue can pose and have at least reduced my disaster scale by 75%. First, I'm not sure what you mean by "regular tube superglue; I use stuff in tiny bottles (1 oz. and 2 oz.) by Mercury Adhesives and/or H&D. It comes in various consistencys from extra thick to extra thin. In my experience the thicker it is the faster it cures although I also note that less is better (and faster to cure) I use mono for rigging as well and find that using CA Accelerator makes the whole process relatively painless. The stuff works instantly and does not appear to compromise strength or durability of the bond.
   Last, applicator selection is important. I use pins for smaller thicker applications and for the thin stuff little applicators fashioned from sewing needles. Simply cut the "eye" portion of the needle to produce a "U" shape at that end, pop the sharp point into a piece of wood dowel for a handle, and you're done. The open "U" holds a bead of thin glue which "wicks" onto your part when contacted. These work really well for the rigging process, I use brass tubes at the terminals like most and the applicator touched on the mono where it joins the tube wicks into the tube thus cementing the mono to the inside walls.
   Sorry for the long winded reply; some others may have better directions which I look forward to, Ca is an aspect of building I'd like to get better at! If the "Applicator" is still puzzling let me know, I can pop a quick photo on here.
Cheers,
Lance

[uncletony]

Maybe you will find the info here useful:

http://miniatures.about.com/od/gluereviews/f/When-To-Use-Super-Glue-Or-Cyanoacrylate-Glue-For-Miniatures-Models-Dollhouses.htm

Btw, in my experience thicker CA cures more slowly than the thin stuff. Accelerant is useful sometimes. Capillary action is the main thing to keep in mind in getting the thin stuff to do your bidding...

[IvotB]

Modelnut,

I have thesame experience. CA glue is sometimes the best there is and sometimes worthless. It doesn't stick at all and all of a sudden it cures.

It depends a lot on what Lance said. Temperature is an issue too. I keep my CA glue in the fridge, but it needs to get warmer again for better use. And there are also a lot of different brands with different qualities. The ones I like the most are ZAP CA and ZAP-A-GAP (thicker variant). But I use the local variant of Bison too with a brush. Bison will probably only be sold in the Netherlands.

I like the tip from Lance. I am going to sacrifice some needles too. I mostly use cocktail pins, but the problem with those is that the drop of glue is not at the tip, but a little bit above. You need to have a kind of dropping device and the cut needle seems to be a good solution.

I'll look into the link from Bo too to see if I can learn some more.

regards,
Ivo

[Ian from Doncaster]

Great tip about cutting the needle eye tip into the U shape Lance   I shall be trying that method very soon!

I have been using the pointy end to try ad place minimal CA in rigging holes etc but have often found that the droplet wicks up the needle, similar to Ivo, therefore I end up dabbing it on sideways and using too much. I use thin CA to get the smallest amount possible.

[Modelnut]

Thanks guys for the input. Last night everything was working fast and strong. This morning the stuff just won't bond quickly enough. Same glue, same mono, same technique. This why I ask about humidity being a factor. We have rain moving in this afternoon where last night was dry and clear. I keep the house on the cool side- 67- 70 degrees F.  I wash my hands often to keep skin oils to a minimum.

I use a sharp toothpick to apply and SuperGlue brand tube glue.

[drdave]

I breath out with my mouth open, over the parts to accelerate the CA.

[LindsayT]

Another fan of the clipped sewing needle, here. I like to keep a tea light or small candle burning on the bench while I'm applying CA with the needle. Eventually the CA dries and you can't pick up anymore. Just stick the tip in the flame to burn off the dried glue, and you're good to go!

Lindsay

[uncletony]

I stick the modified needle applicator into a wine cork -- it stands up on its own which is handy, the cork fits the had nicely as a tool. I keep a small jar of acetone on my bench which the cork stops neatly-- while I'm working with CA I stick the applicator into the acetone jar to keep it from clogging. Works perfectly for me.

[lcarroll]

   This is what I really value this Forum for; 2 or 3 great little ideas in only a few hours. Two points, one - Bo is absolutely correct in that thicker CA dries slower then thin, just had a bad moment is all! Second, though probably intuitive, sewing needles have different sizes and also different shaped and sized eyes, so you can vary the capacity of the "U" both by size and the length you cut it. I have 4 or five in varying capacities in my tool "pile" at all times.
   Got this little gem from a fellow modeller on another Site and have since discovered that I had to have been one of only a few in the modelling world that didn't know about it!
Cheers,
Lance

[gcn]

For rigging get hold of some of the really thin super glue, and a needle and cut the end of the eye to create a two pronged fork.

I put a drop of glue in a contact lens container and it stays liquid for ages. Then dip fork in the glue and apply the prong to the bit you want glueing. The glue will set instantly and unless you are incredibly unlucky will be invisible as its so thin and you are only applying a tiny amount.

I used to have the exact same problem with medium viscosity glue and as you have found it takes different times to set whereas the extra thin sets immediately.

The fork will get bunged up pretty quickly but the glue can easily be burnt off with a lighted match.

[IvotB]

Got this little gem from a fellow modeller on another Site and have since discovered that I had to have been one of only a few in the modelling world that didn't know about it!

Well Lance, it seems that you have found one of the other few  I have been working with CA glue for over 18 years or so and the only tip that I got is to bend a tiny ring at the end of a wire to do the trick. But the nice thing about the clipped needle is that you will have a drop of glue really hanging at the bottom where it should be. I won't be plundering our sewing gear, but I am sure to get me several sices of needles for this purpose this week. And save some corkes too.

I'll share it with my railway modelling friends who as far as I know aren't using this trick either.

regards,
Ivo

[uncletony]

An alternative to using a cork for a handle is to heat the needle and jam it into a leftover piece of sprue. But I like the cork cuz it stands up.

If you burn the CA off the needle, avoid breathing the smoke, it is toxic. Of course Acetone ain't great to breath either so choose your poison :-)

[Des]

Modelnut - Super Glue reacts with the amount of moisture in the air, it needs water moisture to cause it to bond. If you are in an environment which is basically very dry it will take longer for the CA to react.

Des.

[lcarroll]

Got this little gem from a fellow modeller on another Site and have since discovered that I had to have been one of only a few in the modelling world that didn't know about it!

Well Lance, it seems that you have found one of the other few  I have been working with CA glue for over 18 years or so and the only tip that I got is to bend a tiny ring at the end of a wire to do the trick. But the nice thing about the clipped needle is that you will have a drop of glue really hanging at the bottom where it should be. I won't be plundering our sewing gear, but I am sure to get me several sices of needles for this purpose this week. And save some corkes too.

I'll share it with my railway modelling friends who as far as I know aren't using this trick either.

Ivo,
  Please spread it around; it is a great little technique which apparently is taken for granted by those who have used it for years. When I started using it the difference was incredible, and read GCN's post, obviously not a new trick to him! I like Bo's thoughts on the cork handle however prefer the thinner version offered by dowel or a thick piece of sprue, matter of personal preference.
Cheers,
Lance

regards,
Ivo