SUPER GLUE WOES

[LindsayT]

I just put the needle into my pin vise. Perfect control that way. When I'm done I can take it out and out it in it's own holder like a drill bit.

LT

[Modelnut]

A lot of good tips here. I will put them to use. 
Perhaps we could make this thread a "sticky" for future reference?

[Chris Johnson]

I finally got around to trying out the clipped needle tool today and it's made my super glue experience about 100% better than what it's been in the past. I may actually be able to use this stuff with some degree of effectiveness from hereon in.

Cheers,

Chris

[rhallinger]

What do you guys use to clip the needle eye?  After 45 years of modeling this is a new one on me too.    I must make one of these!

Regards,

Bob

[WarrenD]

Bob, I used some wire cutters, and then filed the "prongs" that resulted to knock off the burrs.

HTH!

Warren

[uncletony]

Bob, I used some wire cutters, and then filed the "prongs" that resulted to knock off the burrs.

HTH!

Warren

Yup, diagonal wire cutters ("dikes") like wot you use to snip welding wire work nicely. Don't use your nice sprue cutters, you'll ruin them. Clean up the sharp edges with fine file or  sandpaper.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diagonal_pliers

[lcarroll]

What do you guys use to clip the needle eye?  After 45 years of modeling this is a new one on me too.    I must make one of these!

Regards,

Bob

Bob,
    Make 5 or 6 (of varying size) , they are "cheap magic"! I also use wire cutters or just snap them with pliers, cleanup via the trusty Dremel with an abrasive stone tip.
Cheers,
Lance

[Hannover]

I've always found working with CA problematic. Some people have suggested to me using a kicker to speed curing but it has to be the Vital brand, Vital Bond 403 Super Glue Activator to be precise. Most kickers leave a white residue after they have dried/evaporated, Vital doesn't so is safe to use.

Looks like a trip to the local haberdashers for some needles and another go at using CA for me then.

Peter

[Dekenba]

I use a kicker - it leaves no residue, even over decals, and the speed of action is absolutely bloody instant!

[gcn]

i clip my needle with spruecutters, just make sure your eyes are out of the way for the flying objects.

Then I insert it into a squared off cocktail stick, I do the same with interdental brushes to create cheap airbrush brush cleaners.

I don't like kickers I use deluxe materials super glue and the extra thin set instantly and the thick gel stuff creates a pretty strong bond in 30 seconds or so

[NP]

I used to use the "clipped needle" applicator, but spent so much time un-bunging the hole I just use a sharpened cocktail stick, or, I have a reel of thick mono-type fishing line and just clip off a bit of that to pick up a drop of glue.

I have some "good" glue in the bottles but it never keeps that long and is wasteful so mostly I have been using some small tubes I found in a "pound-store" type shop and got a whole load of them for 50p each.  They are not brilliant but do ok for general things.

*********

But what I really came here to post was that I remember seeing a post a while ago by a chap who did a comparison of various types of applicator and concluded the most accurate application was from a tool that had a very small ball on the tip; the glue formed on and came off the top of the ball-arc which put a small dot exactly where he wanted.  I think it might have been a dentists' tool, the post might have been on the AeroScale web site?  Not tried it myself (for want of such a tool)

NP

[Ian from Doncaster]

A variation on the clipped needle idea could be to use the cut offs of twisted wires used for making turnbuckle eyelets?  I wonder if the glue droplet would be held by the two wire strand ends rather than wicking up?  If so, this could be great for applying CA to rigging points as the cut offs are the same size as the eyelet shafts?

[IanB]

I'm learning a ton from this thread! I wondered why I sometimes had huge problems getting my rigging glued, and other times it was perfect....I was renting an apartment with electric heat which dried the air. In the summer it was not a problem! I will also be buying some needles very soon. Thanks everyone

Ian

[JoeDxMB]

Just some facts and history about CA glue ..........
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cyanoacrylate

i will just add to the thread that not all  accelerators are created equal as we all probable know. Many will crystallizes the glue making it look terrible as they are acetone based .  I also fond that plain  water will crystallize CA.

i recently found a band/formulation of accelerator that promises not to do this and is about the best that I have ever use over the years, This
includes using CA on balsa and foam . So, shop around for accelerator and find one you like . 

Personally, I just let it cure on its own if at all possible.

[Nigel Jackson]

Hi All

Like IanB I'm learning so much and the clipping the eye of the needle tip has proved brilliant. Thank you!

My gripe with Superglue has often been the vast amount that seems to go to waste as nozzles get blocked etc, even when I try to be scrupulously carefully in cleaning and freeing the nozzle. It came as a great delight to find that the one which has stood the longest test of time is by far the cheapest one of all and just came from the homeware section of my local supermarket.

One thing that I have learned is to be more discriminating in my use of different types of glue. So now, if I'm gluing an etched metal part with a reasonable contact area and which is unlikely to fall victim to careless hands then a simple white glue normally sold for gluing items like paper, card, cloth etc has proved more than adequate. It has the added bonus of allowing something to be repositioned if it's not quite right; which in my case, happens a lot!

Best wishes
Nigel