1:32nd scale Bristol Scout C

[pepperman42]

That's the part you do that always looks scary!!.....looking forward to the big reveal!

Steve

[Mike Norris (UK)]

Hi all,
The clay wash has been removed to give the effect of a well used Bristol Scout.
A final sealing coat of 'Alclad' Light Sheen (ALC-311) was airbrushed to seal it all,

Mike

[lcarroll]

Mike,
   That clay wash is a very nice effect which I will be exploring, very impressive. Just another masterpiece from your talented bench to add to your classic collection, great work yet again and a pleasure to follow!
Cheers,
Lance

[RAGIII]

Mike,
   That clay wash is a very nice effect which I will be exploring, very impressive. Just another masterpiece from your talented bench to add to your classic collection, great work yet again and a pleasure to follow!
Cheers,
Lance

Agreed!
RAGIII

[pepperman42]

Great jump!! Always amazes me when these results come out of the previous step.

Steve

[Mike Norris (UK)]

Hi all,
For those that want to add that little extra detail to this model
Edgar from 'Copper State Models' messaged me with some detail information, which I confirmed with David Bremner (Scout 1264).
When the models ailerons are fitted to the wings, there is a 'ledge' between the trailing edge of the wings and leading edge of the ailerons.

As I understand it, the ledge represents the 'nosing piece', which was made from Spruce wood.
This strip was attached the rear face of the wing rear spar and had a rounded profile at its end.
The front spar of the ailerons were channeled to accept the rounded end of the 'nosing piece'.
It was effectively an air flow seal between the wings and ailerons, filling the gap made by the aileron hinges.
As the ailerons moved up or down, the end of the 'nosing piece' remained in the aileron channel and stopped airflow passing between the wing and aileron.
The linen covering of the wings and ailerons were wrapped around the edges and secured in place, most likely by either adhesive or tacks.

Therefore that thin strip between the wings and ailerons should be painted as exposed wood and not as being linen covered.

Mike



 

[KiwiZac]

The "ghost" markings and ribs look fantastic Mike, well done!

The linen weave effect looks very pronounced in the photos - is that due to the camera? Photos of 1264's covering don't show it to be quite as "severe".

[Tim Mixon]

Great effects with that clay wash. I’ll have to try this out.   

[Mike Norris (UK)]

The "ghost" markings and ribs look fantastic Mike, well done!

The linen weave effect looks very pronounced in the photos - is that due to the camera? Photos of 1264's covering don't show it to be quite as "severe".

Hi Zac,
The shots are pretty close to what's seen with the naked eye.
These particular decals are more subtle than the 'Aviattic' basic linen effect decals, which can look too obvious over light colours. 
The effect can obviously be seen, but like any modelling, there's no perfect answer.
I think it's a matter of personal preference as to whether a modeler applies linen decals or not.
Personally I like the effect they give, even if to some they may seem over-scale.
At the end of the day there's only two choices - use decals or don't.
I've done both and have seen many amazing models that were only painted.
However, with companies such as 'Aviattic' and now 'Lukgraph' creating linen effect decals, there is obviously a market for them.
Agreed regards 1294's appearance, but that aircraft has been recovered in recent years and at the end of the day is a show bird, not a grimy war plane,

Mike

[xan]

Teel me Mike How did you proceed to install the linen decals . did you cut them before?, just at the right size, using drawing for exemple ?

[Mike Norris (UK)]

Teel me Mike How did you proceed to install the linen decals . did you cut them before?, just at the right size, using drawing for exemple ?

Hi Xan,
The outline shapes of the wings, tailplane, ailerons, elevator and rudder were pencil traced onto the rear side of the decal sheet.
Then cut out and applied.
The decals for the wheel covers were cut as circles using a 'Thinnerline' circle cutter.
The front cover decals were sliced from the centre on one side to remove a thin triangle of decal.
This allows the decal to conform over the raised profile of the front covers.
The various fuselage decals were made by using tracing paper to mark the outlines then cut out.
The templates are checked against the model to make sure they fit correctly.
Then they're used to mark the outlines onto the decal sheet and the decals cut and applied.

Mike

[xan]

Ok thank you!

[Mike Norris (UK)]

Hi all,
Just a quick update.
The landing gear struts were wrapped in linen to protect them and strengthen them against splitting.
I chose the apply the 'Aviattic' CDL decal to the struts, not that you can see much of it.
I also dirtied the gear using the 'Flory Models' Dark Dirt wash.
The axle was replaced with 1.2 mm diameter Brass tube.
Now onto pre-rigging,

Mike

[Mike Norris (UK)]

Hi all,
Just for interest.
Here's a piece of CDL linen removed from David Bremner's Bristol Scout 1264 when it was recovered,

Mike

[Dutch522]

Wow, very cool! As a landscape painter I'm pretty familiar with canvas textures, and that's a really open weave, far more than I'd have guessed for an aircraft covering. That would qualify as a "rough" surface with an artist's linen.

I can see why you went the Aviattic route.

Dave V.