Build Log - Eduard 8113 Albatros DV

[FAf]

Thanks for your answer about the flat coat! As I said before, it looks great!
/Fredrik

[Tim Mixon]

Wow Brad!  That looks amazing.   

[Brad Cancian]

Hi all - thanks for the ongoing kind words, it's helping to spur me along To that end, the upper wing is now mounted, and rigging mostly done. On the home stretch now!

superb work and magnificent rendering Brad, but how did you do the nailing lines, freehand or with rosie?

Hi Osterkamp! The nail lines are done free hand with a pointed scriber. I have a rosie wheeled riveting tool, but every time i've tried to use it on curved surfaces such as this, it goes awry... the freehand riveting also is very far from perfect, but it will do. I certainly welcome any tips you or others may have using one of the wheeled riveting tools?

Thanks again!

BC

[pepperman42]

I think this model has a great amount of character. It looks great!!! The landing gear struts look fine to me but if you had to, would the kit struts be usable to extend?

Steve

[Brad Cancian]

Thanks Steve!

Yep the kit struts are able to be extended, you just need a similar aerofoil shaped plastic to splice in 2-3mm worth anywhere along the length; I've done this on previous builds. The only annoying thing is the clean up. Remember though that the extra length also changes the distance between the attachment points to the fuselage, so the struts will need to be gently 'squeezed' (recommended under hot water) to keep the original distance.

Cheers,

BC

[Brad Cancian]

She be done!



Completed build photos are here:

https://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=13870.0

Again, many thanks to everyone that provided me with kind words and encouragement along the way with this build!

Cheers again,

BC

[RAGIII]

Awesome Results Brad!
RAGIII

[iamjohnsname]

This is a marvellous build, Brad. Well done!

Your wood effect is as good as any I’ve ever seen! Do you apply the oil paint with a brush only? Or with a sponge or some other clever tool? Every time I try, it just ends up looking like a sloppy paint job rather than woodgrain.

Also, I’ve been thinking of buying this vacuform machine for things like this too https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/404306459367?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-154756-20017-0&ssspo=gyim9o_rqro&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=CblkPjc_TM-&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY.

But balsa is exactly what I imagine making the master from. No idea what else to use? And what thickness sheet did you end up using to make the spinner?

[iamjohnsname]

Hi Lance,

I also use Winsor & Newton Griffin Alkyd oils but find they still take a few days to dry. So this "Liquin Original" product is pretty tempting. Do you use it instead of a thinner? Or as well as a thinner (and if so, which thinner do you use)? Thanks so much for your help!

Brad,
    I'll add to Mike's suggestion here that if you prefer to stay with the oil based wood grain application investigate Winsor&Newton "Liquin Original". It's a product that accelerates the drying process and is impressive in reducing drying time to approximately 24 hours. I've used it for years and it has never failed. Just mix a small brush full into a "blob" of your oil paint about the size of the recess on a Humbrol paint lid (probably a 10% mix of Liquin to paint) and use your normal woodgraining technique. It has saved me from the fingerprint trap since I started using it!

Cheers,
Lance

Hi Brad,
Quote
"Now, in the depths of winter here in Australia, it took well over a week and a half for the oils to try. See if you can spot the fingerprints where I 'tested' how dry the oil paints were (or weren't...)... sigh!!"

I use the ‘Windsor & Newton’ Griffin Alkyd oil paints.
Same range of colours and brushed the same with moistened white spirit brush.
Same results as standard oil paints, but no need to leech out linseed oil beforehand and the are touch dry within 30 minutes.
Fully cured withing around 24 hours,

Mike

[jeroen_R90S]

Great work, Brad -goes to show, even if rather basic, how nice these kits still are

[Brad Cancian]

Thanks gents!

This is a marvellous build, Brad. Well done!

Your wood effect is as good as any I’ve ever seen! Do you apply the oil paint with a brush only? Or with a sponge or some other clever tool? Every time I try, it just ends up looking like a sloppy paint job rather than woodgrain.

Also, I’ve been thinking of buying this vacuform machine for things like this too https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/404306459367?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-154756-20017-0&ssspo=gyim9o_rqro&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=CblkPjc_TM-&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY.

But balsa is exactly what I imagine making the master from. No idea what else to use? And what thickness sheet did you end up using to make the spinner?

Indeed I do use a brush, usually one that's flat and around 3-4mm wide. I do slightly thin the paint which helps with the 'grain' effect.

Yep that's the same little vac machine that I have. I used balsa for a master but I pretty much destroyed it trying to get the mould off the master. I think next time i'll use a hard wood of some kind (I welcome any tips from those more experienced at vac forming than I...!). I think the thickness of sheet I used was 10 thou, if I remember correctly.

Cheers again!

BC

[Naimbs]

Thanks for the beautiful photos and all the tips! 

Have a nice day from New Caledonia!

[pepperman42]

Basswood might be an option. Light weight like balsa but with a tighter grain. It's  still easy to carve and sand.

Steve

[osterkamp]

Thanks Brad for this information, but like you, I always have a little problem using a Rosie.... your Albie is superb, thanks for this wip, now it's my turn to try and make one.