forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Under Construction => Topic started by: Mike Norris on April 16, 2023, 06:21:33 AM
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Hi all,
As my build of the Hannover Cl.II is drawing to a close, I'm starting research for my next build.
This will be the 'Copper State Models' Bristol Scout C.
The aircraft I intend to build is Scout serial number 1260 (not a kit scheme).
Bristol Scout C, serial number 1260 was one of a batch of 24 aircraft built under contract CP 67209/14 (serials 1243 to 1266).
This aircraft was delivered to Eastchurch on the 4th of July 1915 and was officially accepted a week later.
It was at St Pol for a few days before joining No.5 Wing at Dover on the 13th of August for Home Defence.
On the 24th of January 1916 and the 9th of February, it was flown by Flt. Sub. Lt. R.F.S Leslie to defend against enemy seaplanes that were attacking Folkstone, Dover, Broadstairs and Ramsgate.
The aircraft required repairs after it overturned on the 29th of June, but was damaged beyond repair on the 10th of August and written off on the 4th of September 1916.
The Bristol Scouts had various armament fitted, which included Lewis machine guns mounted obliquely on one or both sides of the fuselage.
Also forward facing on the top forward fuselage decking or forward facing on the upper wing.
During one period, 1260 had a Lewis machine gun fitted on the top forward fuselage decking.
It seems strange therefore that this aircraft was not fitted with any form of synchronising mechanism to stop fired rounds hitting the rotating propeller.
Evidence of this can be seen on similar period Scouts with this armament fitted, by wrappings around the propeller blades that were aligned with the muzzle of the machine gun.
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/header2.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/actual.jpg)
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I'm very much looking forward to seeing this one Mike. Have fun with i, I know you will do 'Bunny' Bremner proud.
Richie
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I'm very much looking forward to seeing this one Mike. Have fun with i, I know you will do 'Bunny' Bremner proud.
Richie
Hi Richie,
The 'Bunny' Bremner build will be after this one.
This one is for me and to check it out for the 'Bunny' build,
Mike
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I'm really looking forward to this! This is a kit I really want, but haven't gotten yet. Maybe you will 'force' me to buy one?! 🙂
/Fredrik
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Will watch closely.
Steve
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I'm very much looking forward to seeing this one Mike. Have fun with i, I know you will do 'Bunny' Bremner proud.
Richie
Hi Richie,
The 'Bunny' Bremner build will be after this one.
This one is for me and to check it out for the 'Bunny' build,
Mike
Double the fun then! :)
Richie
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Hi Mike
If you will need any help with additional parts please do let me know
Will try to help
Edgar
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Hi Mike
If you will need any help with additional parts please do let me know
Will try to help
Edgar
Hi Edgar,
Thanks.
After my build I'll be building the Scout 1264 for Theo Willford in David Bremners team,
Mike
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Hi all,
I think this model will be up there with 'Wingnut Wings' kits, as expected now from 'Copper State Models'
I've been researching information for my model build of the Scout and in particular the rigging.
However, I've found a few points that I think need clarifying for anyone making the Scout.
The kit comes with both the Gnome Lambda and the optional Le Rhone 9C engine for scheme 1264.
The initial engine fit for the Scout was the Gnome Lambda engine and it seems it was preferred by the Royal Naval Air Service as being more reliable than the Le Rhone 9C.
However some Scout C aircraft were fitted with the Le Rhone 9C as a development towards the Scout type D.
Kit scheme for Serial No.1264 on page 18 of the instruction manual possibly indicates that the Le Rhone 9C can be fitted and with engine cowl part B5.
The twin flying wires are highlighted red for required rigging at step 38 in the instruction manual, but nowhere else in the manual.
The upper and lower drag wires are also illustrated in the manual, but not highlighted red as required rigging.
The internal rigging for the cockpit frames does not include the cross bracing wires at the frame behind the pilots seat.
The internal rigging for the cockpit has no information for the aileron control cables, although there does appear to be a control lever at the front of the aileron torsion bar.
Instruction manual steps 57 and 59 illustrations have associated misleading text (incidence wire, not flying wires).
The upper elevator control cables are attached to the bottom of the control column, which protrudes from the underside of the fuselage. These are highlighted red at step 10 only as required rigging.
These minor observations in no way detract from what is a great kit.
I just wanted to point out what I think are points needing clarification,
Mike
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Hi all
A quick update.
The supplied pilots seat and cushion parts are of good quality.
However, I chose to replace them with a seat from the 3D printed ‘Gaspatch’ British wicker seat/cushion (22-32249) set.
This seat fits exactly onto the kit seat base, which just needed the seat cushion sanding away.
The 'Gaspatch' seat was then simply secured onto the modified kit base, using thin CA adhesive,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/seat1.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/seat2.jpg)
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Thanks for noting the minor tweaks and nice start!
Steve
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Hi all,
The Scout had at the forward sides of the fuselage, an access panel that was used to gain access into the forward cockpit from both sides of the fuselage.
These panels opened upwards with two separate hinges on the top edge and were secured closed with two latches at the bottom edge.
The kit fuselage halves have these detailed panels pre-moulded.
Unfortunately, the panels cover all of the cockpit internal detail.
Therefore, I chose to modify the panel on the port side of the fuselage in the open position, allowing visibility of the cockpit detail.
The opening panel was cut from the fuselage half then filed to shape.
The panel was made from 0.2 mm thick plastic card.
The top hinges and latches are represented by 0.3 mm diameter tube and plastic card.
The panel stay rod will be added later in the build.
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/panel2.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/panel1.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/panel3.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/panel4.jpg)
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Nice touch!
Steve
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Looks great from here!
Andreas
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Hi all,
During its service life the Scout had various weapons fitted and in different locations on the aircraft.
From rifles, Lewis machine guns and even duck guns fitted to the fuselage side, to machine guns fitted on the fuselage decking in front of the pilot or over wing mounted guns.
Different type of over wing gun mountings were used and either fixed or movable.
In the following photograph of 1260, it can be seen that it’s over wing gun mount was possible the Bristol Scout Lewis No.5 mounting Type1 - ’Christy pattern’ dated March 1916.
This mounting allowed the weapon to be fired over the rotating arc of the propeller or fired vertically upward.
It also allowed for the ammunition drum to be replaced, unlike the fixed mount version.
The mounting was basically a single metal tube attached to the underside of the upper wing centre section, which was cut back to the wing rear spar (to allow the weapon to pivot over the cockpit).
The gun and its mounting were off-set to the starboard side of the centre section.
At the cockpit end of the tube was a pivot mounting in the upturned top of the tube.
When fired over the rotating propeller the gun was locked in the horizontal position, but when fired vertically the hand grip of the machine gun was simply clipped into a fitting on the starboard side of the cockpit decking panel.
The horizontally positioned weapon was fired using a pull cable from the gun down into the cockpit.
When fired vertically it’s probable the pilot could operate the trigger by hand.
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/actual1.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/mount2.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/mount5.jpg)
To represent this weapon fit I used a ‘Gaspatch’ 1:32nd scale Lewis Mk.1 half stripped heatsinks (13-32052).
Also 'Albion Alloy's' Brass tubing and rods.
The trailing edge of the upper wing required cutting back to the rear spar to allow the Lewis gun to be pivoted to to cockpit for reloading or firing vertically.
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/mount8.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/mount9.jpg)
The fuselage clip fitting still needs to be made as well as a magneto starter switch (mounted on the post side of the fuselage near the cockpit,
Mike
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Very fine additions.
Steve
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Lovely Mike,
That was a brave cut!
Guy
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Lovely additions to detail Mike. This is going to be a real treat to watch you build.
All the best,
Tim
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As Gisbod said, that's a brave cut perfectly executed. Opening that inspection hatch will be a lovely touch. I'm looking forward to the next installment.
RE the engine,I think I'm right in saying the standard fitting was the Gnome monosoupape but some pilots (Bunny Bremner included) had a Le Rhone fitted. Despite the numbers suggesting the Gnome was more powerful many felt the Le Rhone in practice had more HP. I'll check through my reference books and see if I can dig out where I got that from. I get a little confused and forgetful at times so probably best not to take my word for it until I can confirm.
Richie
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As Gisbod said, that's a brave cut perfectly executed. Opening that inspection hatch will be a lovely touch. I'm looking forward to the next installment.
RE the engine,I think I'm right in saying the standard fitting was the Gnome monosoupape but some pilots (Bunny Bremner included) had a Le Rhone fitted. Despite the numbers suggesting the Gnome was more powerful many felt the Le Rhone in practice had more HP. I'll check through my reference books and see if I can dig out where I got that from. I get a little confused and forgetful at times so probably best not to take my word for it until I can confirm.
Richie
Hi Richie,
Yes you are correct.
The initial and early Scouts were fitted with the Gnome Lambda 80hp seven cylinder rotary engine.
'Bunnie' Bremner had the Le Rhone 9C nine cylinder engine fitted to 1264 when flying with the RNAS from the island of Thassos, Greece.
Although more powerful than the Gnome engine, the RNAS considered it less reliable and initially stuck with the Gnome.
Trials of other rotary engines started around March 1916, including the 80 hp Le Rhône and Clerget, the 100 hp Monosoupape-Gnome, and the 110 hp Clerget or Le Rhône rotaries.
Later Scout type D's had the 100 hp Gnóme Monosoupape B2 rotary engine fitted as standard.
Mike
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Hi all,
Cockpit parts painted.
They'll be weathered eventually.
The hollow engine crankshaft has been drilled out at the carburettor air intake cone.
Also I've added the engine fuel and oil supply pipes.
I still have to add the oil supply pipe from the cockpit port side frame and the supply and return oil pipes to the cockpit located Pulsometer.
I also need to add the fuel tank and associated pipework.
I'm waiting for information on those.
So for now it's onto rigging before assembly,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/tubes1.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/painted.jpg)
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Really a great start on the Bristol Scout!
Andreas
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Another promising start Mike, the cockpit parts look like 1/1 components laid out for a photoshoot!
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Truly underway now Mike, being an engineer must be a great help with getting all the mechanical details correct. The kit parts look superb.
Richie
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Meticulous research and execution as always Mike.
I like your solution for the access panel to the engine compartment.
Willem
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Hi all,
The cockpit rigging is underway.
'Proper Plane' 1:32nd scale resin turnbuckles, 0.04 mm diameter tube and 0.08 mm diameter mono-filament.
The rudder, elevator and aileron lines are just tube as the cockpit space is a bit restricted to fit turnbuckles.
I still need to add fuel tank and oil supply modifications, but won't have that information until next week.
So in the meantime I'll make a start on the figures,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/contcolrig.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/rudderbarrig.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/siderig2.jpg)
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Thansk for leading the way, Mike! I have that massive Intruder to finish but this one is quite near the top of my "plan-to" pile :)
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Outstanding added details Mike. Your mods are certainly making a great kit even better!
RAGIII
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A great build log!
Steve
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Hi all,
I've made a start on adding oil and fuel pipe details into the forward area of the fuselage.
The kit fuselage halves have access panels into this area of the fuselage, but they are moulded as part of the fuselage.
Therefore the kit does not supply any of these details as if built as supplied, this area of the fuselage is not visible.
However, I'm having at least one of these access panels open, so the inside of the fuselage will be seen.
First to be tackled are the oil pipes for engine lubrication.
I believe the oil system was as follows:
On earlier Bristol Scouts, the oil tank was located in the fuselage at the rear of the pilots cockpit.
A supply pipe from the tank was routed along the cockpit left side frame to the near the rear of the engine bulkhead.
A pipe connected the oil supply to the oil pump reservoir.
It seems the engine provided drive to the oil pump which I believe had a centrifugal type impeller which pumped the oil out of the pump.
The oil was pumped back through a pipe to the oil Pulsometer, located in the cockpit.
The glass bowl on the Pulsometer gave the pilot a visual indication of engine lubrication.
From the Pulsometer the oil returned through another pipe and was connected to the engine crankshaft, which was partially hollow.
The oil mixed with fuel from the simple carburettor, located on the rear of the crankshaft.
The fuel/oil mixture was drawn through the engine crankshaft into the rotating engine to provide ignition and lubrication.
The used fuel/oil was vented out to atmosphere through the cylinder exhaust valves.
Hence why rotary engine heavily stained the fuselage, landing gear and wing roots so much.
The first pipe created is the connecting pipe between the side frame supply pipe and the oil pump.
This was made using 0.3 mm diameter Brass rod and 0.5 mm diameter Brass tube.
The rod/tube was bent to locate into holes drilled into the supply pipe and oil pump.
It was the covered with braided black tube (‘ANYZ’ 0.5mm black braided line (AN011), then sealed at each end with thin CA adhesive.
The excess was cut way to reveal the brass ens of the tube/rod.
It was then secured in position using thin CA adhesive.
Next up are the pipes connecting the pump outlet to the Pulsometer and the return pipe to the engine crankshaft,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/oilpipe.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/oilpipe2.jpg)
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Very Impressive addition Mike. That braided tube looks interesting for several uses!
RAGIII
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Hi all,
The Pulsometer pipes are done.
To extend the length of the kit pre-moulded pipes, I joined two 0.5 mm diameter Brass tubes together with thin CA adhesive.
These were Copper colour painted.
They were secured to the cockpit left side frame, again with the CA adhesive.
Two lengths of 0.3 mm diameter Copper wire were annealed (softened with heat).
These were bent to fit into the tube ends and the pre-drilled holes in the oil pump and engine crankshaft (through the opening in the crankshaft mounting plate).
They were secured in position using thin CA adhesive.
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/oilpipe3.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/oilpipe4.jpg)
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Very nice work on the interior bits, Mike.
Forgive me, but my understanding of how the oil pulsometer works is not consistent with your description. I may very well be wrong, but I understand that a single tube from the exit of the oil pump goes to the pulsometer, aside from the lubrication piping to the engine. When the oil pump discharges oil in a pulse-like manner, the spike in pressure makes the oil in the pulsometer 'jump'. That is why there is only one tube going to the pulsometer. If the pilot sees the oil jumping in the pulsometer, he knows the oil pump is working.
Again, I may have this all wrong, but I'm just trying to understand these early machines.
I'll keep following your progress on this fascinating project.
Ken
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Very nice work on the interior bits, Mike.
Forgive me, but my understanding of how the oil pulsometer works is not consistent with your description. I may very well be wrong, but I understand that a single tube from the exit of the oil pump goes to the pulsometer, aside from the lubrication piping to the engine. When the oil pump discharges oil in a pulse-like manner, the spike in pressure makes the oil in the pulsometer 'jump'. That is why there is only one tube going to the pulsometer. If the pilot sees the oil jumping in the pulsometer, he knows the oil pump is working.
Again, I may have this all wrong, but I'm just trying to understand these early machines.
I'll keep following your progress on this fascinating project.
Ken
Hi Ken,
Yes the Pulsometer does, as the name implies, 'pulse' to give the pilot a visual indication of the engine oil delivery.
My understanding of the Gnome 'Lambda' engine is based on similar installations, such as shown in the following illustration.
It indicates that the engine oil supply is fed via the Pulsometer to the engine.
This would make sense as to have just an indication of pump output would not show if the engine itself was being lubricated.
Just my take on the system although I could be wrong,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/fueloil2.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/dsc06422.jpg)
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Hi Mike, based on the diagram you have provided, I would say that you are correct. I suspect the pulsometer system could have been set up differently in other aircraft.
Looking forward to additional updates.
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Thanks for explaining things Mike. Your pipes look great.
RAGIII
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Hi Mike, based on the diagram you have provided, I would say that you are correct. I suspect the pulsometer system could have been set up differently in other aircraft.
Looking forward to additional updates.
Hi Ken,
Yes you could be right.
This is only what I believe is correct for the Scout and its Gnome Lambda engine,
Mike
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Hi all,
The fuselage underside panel (C8) locates into the joined fuselage halves with two circular rings.
As the rear of the cockpit is not closed off, the forward and larger locating ring will be visible.
Therefore that area on the bottom of the fuselage halves is covered with a cut 0.3 mm thick plastic card.
Once the fuselage is closed up the locator ring as well as the fuselage seam joint will be covered,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/fuslocator.jpg)
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Ahh! The proverbial false bottom. I use this technique often when building short run and vac kits. Looking great!
All the best,
Tim
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Hi all,
The cockpit assembly is rigged now.
It has the rudder, aileron and elevator control cables.
I've also rigged all of the frame cross bracing wires.
These are made of blacked 0.4 mm diameter tube, 0.08 mm diameter mono-filament and 'Proper Plane' resin turnbuckles.
Only four turnbuckles have not been fitted.
Two below the pilots foot board assembly as they can't be seen.
One on the outside of both cockpit side frames, also that can't be seen and also can interfere with the cockpit fit in the fuselage halves.
The pilots instrument panel also fitted.
I still have the fuel tank and associated pipework to do (not supplied in the kit.
Also weathering of the cockpit and inside the fuselage halves,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/rig35.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/rig36.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/rig37.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/istpanel.jpg)
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Excellent work Mike! I love the IP 8)
RAGIII
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Superb interior Mike, I'm enjoying learning about what all the parts are from your well informed build.
Richie
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Hi all,
Thanks to David Bremner, owner and operator of Bristol Scout 1264.
He sent me some factory drawings showing the Scout's fuel system.
There is still some guesswork involved but there is enough for me to at least represent the fuel system inside the fuselage.
As most building the CSM Scout would probably build it as supplied, the fuselage is totally closed, so everything forward from the instrument panel wouldn't be seen.
However, I'm modelling the forward access panels in the fuselage open, so a little of the internal details will be seen.
What I can do will be scratch built, although much of it still won't be seen (unless you hold up the model and use a torch ;D).
Mike
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Very nice looking interior work Mike. All that plumbing is mind boggling!
Tim
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Hi all,
A few modifications to the cockpit assembly.
I've added the magneto HT lead. I've painted it red only so it can be seen inside the fuselage.
Also a fuel tank (bottom only) with collector sump and outlet to the fuel gauge.
The fuel system and its controls are way too lengthy to repeat here on the forum.
However, I've detailed the fuel system in my PDF build log, which I'll post on completion of the model.
The basic engine fuel supply is as follows:
Sump on the fuel tank through a shut-off cock then a pipe to the fine control valve.
From the fine control valve, through a pipe to the underside of the carburetor.
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/htlead.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/tank3.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/tank4.jpg)
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Spectacular work on the interior. It will be a great reference when I get to building mine.
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Splendid work!
You're setting the bar quite high while lowering it at the same time through your excellent explanations.
Pure joy to follow!
/Fredrik
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Hi all,
A few more additions.
The fuel contents indicator in the cockpit was the sight glass type, which was connected by a pipe to its shut-off valve under the left side of the fuel tank.
It indicated the contents of the fuel tank using the 'U tube' principle that a fluid will find its own level.
The pipe is attached to the fuel tank, but the cockpit end will be attached later in the build.
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/tank5.jpg)
The tank outlet had a shut-off cock, which was operated by a push/pull control on the left side of the cockpit.
The 'ring' handle was made from copper wire inserted into a 0.5 mm diameter Nickel-Silver tube.
The tube was bent to shape to to fit along and cockpit left side, under the instrument panels and cockpit cross members then through the opening in the crankshaft mounting plate.
The front end has 0.3 mm diameter lead wire to represent the operating Bowden cable, which will be attached to the tank outlet later in the build.
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/tank6.jpg)
Now it's onto the carburettor and main fuel supply shut-off cock control runs,
Mike
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Awesome interior detailing Mike!
RAGIII
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Hi all,
I've gone as far as I can to finish the cockpit details.
I've added the control tubes/cables for the carburetor, shut-off valve at the fine control valve and the shut-off cock on the fuel tank supply pipe.
Also the shut-off valve at the outlet supply from the fuel tank to the fuel contents indicator, including the interconnecting pipe.
I know, I know - don't say it.
But for me it's the satisfaction of doing it, not so much for being able to see it afterwards.
Next up is to close up the fuselage,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/tank9.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/tank10.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/tank11.jpg)
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That’s quite a busy fuselage. And you‘ll still have the photos …
Andreas
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Hi all,
Fuselage closed up.
Now to clean up the seams etc,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/fusclosed.jpg)
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Hello,
You're moving forward beautifully. The model looks great. I follow a lot of your techniques and ways of making. I'm impressed.
Lukasz
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You are maintaining quality in spite of the speed of your build Mike! Looking forward to the next update!
RAGIII
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Hi all,
A few updates.
The lower wing and under shield are fitted.
Care needs to taken to make sure all locating faces and recesses are clear of paint, especially the wing locating recesses in the bottom edges of the cockpit side frames.
At this stage it's best to secure sponge blocks under the fuselage to protect the exposed control column from damage.
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/wingon1.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/wingon2.jpg)
The outer wheel covers have pre-moulded impressions of the wheel spokes.
However, they are pronounced and sharp, so need to be scrapped or sanded to soften them back.
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/covers.jpg)
The kit supplied axle seems a little weak and flexible.
I cut off the bungee cord suspension units from each end of the axle.
Then drilled holes of 1.2 mm diameter through the units.
The axle was cut from 1.2 mm diameter Brass tube and 49 mm long, in order to fully locate into the internal wheel spigots.
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/gear.jpg)
The wing ailerons were drilled and pinned to allow them to be positioned.
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/ailpin.jpg)
Mike
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It looks fabulous Mike. It's sad to see all that beautiful interior detail disappear but I can always look at your photographs to see them again. I always enjoy adding as many details as I can, even if they won't be seen. It just adds to the fun and it looks like you are really enjoying this project.
I know the Bristol Scout pretty well after seeing and photographing it so many times. CSM have produced a beautifully accurate model by the looks of it.
Richie
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Hi Richie,
Yes it's all part of the challenge I guess.
I'm hoping to get close and in David Bremner's Scout 1624 at Old Warden sometime soon.
I'll need to get as much information as I can before building the model of 1264 for his main team member, Theo Wilford,
Mike
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I always enjoy watching your builds Mike. This one is really looking superb .
RAGIII
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Now things get together very quickly. Looking very good!
Andreas
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Great progress seen in every update. A pleasure to follow.
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Hi all,
As described earlier in this thread, Scout 1260 had an external starter switch on the left side of the cockpit decking panel.
This was created from pieces of sprue.
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/magswitch.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/magswitch1.jpg)
The gun latch for holding the Lewis machine gun vertically during reloading or un-jamming was located on the right side of the decking panel.
This was created by cutting spare photo-etch sheet. It will be fitted to the decking panel later in this build.
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/mount2.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/gunlatch3.jpg)
Mike
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Catching up. Great progress!!
Steve
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Hi all,
The Gnome Lambda Rotary engine is complete, including 0.4 mm diameter Brass tubes with 0.2 mm diameter copper wire spark plug leads.
I cut away the kit spark plugs and drilled holes into the cylinders to mount the plugs.
The engine was then fitted to the engine bulkhead and the cowl fitted over the engine.
I had to slightly sand the valve levers on the top of each cylinder to allow the cowl to fit, as they were restricting the fit of the cowl.
Due to the size of the opening in the engine cowl being so small, very little of the engine can be seen.
Now it's on to external pre-rigging,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/cowlon.jpg)
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Due to the size of the opening in the engine cowl being so small, very little of the engine can be seen.
[/quote]
Yes but what can (and cannot) be seen is masterfully executed!
Tim
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Lovely Mike. I am amazed at the opening size of the cowl. I never realized how small it is. Your work looks fabulous as always!
RAGIII
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Hi all,
An interesting post from David Bremner, during the build of his Bristol Scout 1264.
The Scout, like other aircraft of that period, had no synchronizing gear for forward firing machine guns.
Most know of the death of Max Immelmann in his Fokker E, when it's been suggested that his aircraft broke up when bullets from his machine guns hit the propeller.
David carried out an interesting experiment by firing 0.303 rounds (as for a Lewis machine gun) from a rifle into a half built propeller.
As can be seen from the following photograph, the rounds passed through the propeller without too much damage.
Admittedly the propeller would have been static so centrifugal forces etc would not have been taken into account.
Nonetheless, it's an interesting experiment.
"Here’s our half propeller, with two holes, which is more or less what you might expect from emptying a Lewis gun drum of 47 rounds. As you can see, the propeller will pretty definitely get you home."
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/bulletholes.jpg)
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Interesting - I'd test it that way every time.....
Steve
-
Here’s our half propeller, with two holes, which is more or less what you might expect from emptying a Lewis gun drum of 47 rounds. As you can see, the propeller will pretty definitely get you home."
That’s really an interesting insight. I would have thought you’d need also the other half to get you home…
Andreas
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Hi all,
As I'm going to apply the 'Aviattic' CDL decals (clear backed) to the model, I primed with a white primer (Tamiya).
The primer was then polished using the 'Flory Models' green/white polishing stick.
This saves having to gloss clear coat before the decals.
It also allows for wearing away primer from some raised detail and a precursor to pre-shading.
So next up is pre-shading and internal structure,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/prime1.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/prime2.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/prime3.jpg)
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Hi all,
Just for interest.
The decking panel between the cockpit and forward metal panels was made of three layered Ash plywood.
However, it was finally covered with glued on linen for protection.
As can be seen from the illustration, the fuel gauge breather pipe was also covered with the linen.
Hopefully I'll be able to apply the 'Aviattic' CDL decal over both,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/deckingpanel.jpg)
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Hello,
I have this canvas imitation decal from Aviattick and it looks fantastic. I was tempted to cover the entire Nieuport with this, but common sense suggested that with the first model of this type, I would not charge too much. Anyway, I'm very curious to see how it will turn out for you. You have much more experience, so I expect an extraordinary result.
Lukasz
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Hi Lukasz,I'm following your amazing Nieuport build.
You modelling skill is obvious :D
I've used the 'clear' backed Aviattic weave effect and the CDL decals on many models and covered the whole aircraft with it.
It can be done as long as you accurately cut the decals to the correct shape for the parts.
As an example, here's my Nieuport 17 from Copper State Models that has the 'clear' backed Weave effect decal applied,
It is difficult to see as it's applied over the silver base colour, which makes it less visible,
Mike
https://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=13572.0 (https://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=13572.0)
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Hi Mike!
Do you think the oil tank behind the pilot was linen covered too ?
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Hi Mike!
Do you think the oil tank behind the pilot was linen covered too ?
Hi Xan,
Yes it's covered the same as the forward decking panel.
Initially the Scout C's had the oil tank fitted in the forward fuselage, but soon found that it caused the aircraft to be nose heavy.
Subsequently later Scout C and the D versions had the oil tank fitted behind the pilot, which improved the flight trim of the aircraft.
That's why there is the large oil supply pipe on the cockpit left side frame.
The following illustration is of a Scout D, which is why the rear of the cockpit is not vertical (Scout C),
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/oiltankdecking.jpg)
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Your Nieuport looks great. This invoice is amazing. Do you have any recommended method of redrawing elements from which you then cut tracing paper? I must try it next time. Your work is amazing and very inspiring.
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Your Nieuport looks great. This invoice is amazing. Do you have any recommended method of redrawing elements from which you then cut tracing paper? I must try it next time. Your work is amazing and very inspiring.
Hi Boch,
If you click the picture in my signature (below) it will open my web site.
Go to the 'Logs' page and download the Nieuport 17 build log.
Use the bookmarks to go to Part 12 (Construction).
Then scroll down to 'Aviattic decal application'
There is a full description of how I cut and apply the decals,
Mike
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Thank you ;D
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Thorough research and great modelling as always Mike.
Richie
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Thorough research and great modelling as always Mike.
Richie
Agreed!
RAGIII
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While Aviattic products are of excellent quality and detail I'm personally not sold on the thickness of the fabric weave depicted, however I believe we have discussed this to great degree on the site previously.
I'm eager to see your next update Mike, they're always a delight with so much wonderful detail to enjoy.
-
Thanks for all the little detail stuff that can be missed! Your research is worth gold - another reason to be here!!
Steve
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Hi all,
Just for information.
I've obtained a copy of 'Warpaint Series 128 - Bristol Scout by Matthew Willis.
This is a great reference with many photographs and includes 15 colour profiles.
If you're going to build the CSM Scout you might want to get a copy,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/warpaint.jpg)
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Hi all,
Thought I'd try something different for pre-shading.
The Bristol Scout in particular shows well defined internal structure through the Clear Doped Linen covering.
Rather than trying to represent this by the usual airbrushing, I thought of using decal instead.
I've applied three different thicknesses of black decal stripes from the 'Xtradecal' Parallel stripes black (XPS1) set.
These take as long to apply as masking then airbrushing would.
The idea is to over spray the decals with white to fade them back but leave them defined.
The CDL decal will then be applied to cover the surfaces.
We'll see,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/struct7.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/preshade1.jpg)
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Sounds like a much better idea than pens like sharpies that start to bleed out when covered by another color. How thick are these decals? Will traces of the decal film stay visible under a thin coat of color?
Andreas
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Sounds like a much better idea than pens like sharpies that start to bleed out when covered by another color. How thick are these decals? Will traces of the decal film stay visible under a thin coat of color?
Andreas
Hi Andreas,
The 'Xtradecals' are probably thinner than most decals and are easily snapped if you're not careful.
I use a wet brush to position these decals.
The paint will cover the decals totally if too much is airbrushed.
It'll be a case of airbrushing gently in stages to fade them back to the required amount.
Then gloss coating before applying the 'Aviattic' CDL decals to cover it all,
Mike
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ThTs an excellent idea Gary. Looking forward to seeing how it turns out.
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Great Idea and very clean work !
but in my opinion, it had to be applied just in the lower surface ,were sunlight shows the internal structure, just like in the picture.
In the upper surface there is no light enough in the ground to see the structure, and structure can e marked , but lighter , not darker...
same plane '1264 replica) same day:
upper surface
(https://bristolscout.files.wordpress.com/2015/06/2015-06-19-bristol-scout-dodge-bailey.jpg?w=723&h=543)
(https://bristolscout.files.wordpress.com/2018/07/20180701_132438.jpg?w=723)
(https://bristolscout.files.wordpress.com/2015/06/2015-06-19-bristol-scout-portrait-4.jpg?w=723&h=543)
lower surface
(https://bristolscout.files.wordpress.com/2018/07/archie-and-grandad-cockpit.jpg)
(https://bristolscout.files.wordpress.com/2015/06/2015-06-19-bristol-scout-portrait.jpg?w=723&h=543)
Anyway your experience is very very interesting.
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Hi Xan,
Yes you are correct.
This is more of a test to see how much over spray is needed for the upper surfaces compared to the undersides.
As you say, the undersides will show more detail than the upper surfaces, similar to my BE2c,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/4.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/BE2c/5.jpg)
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Fantastic painting. They look real. I'm delighted.
Lukasz
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How it is really a fantastic work!!! excellent!
Anyway I am very interested in your black decals idea...+ linen decal
Exiting !
Xan
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Interesting approach.
Steve
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I am thinking it is a "Slightly" easier Method than Masking and painting! Either way you are Insane...a good insane though 8)
RAGIII
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I like that idea of using decal strips Mike, I look forward to seeing the results.
I love those BE2c wings!
Richie
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How it is really a fantastic work!!! excellent!
Anyway I am very interested in your black decals idea...+ linen decal
Exiting !
Xan
Hi Xan,
I realized today that I'd actually applied the decals for testing pre-shading to the top surface of the upper wing, instead of the underside ::)
So now I can fully understand your earlier comment ;)
As such I stripped it all off using cellotape and applied the decals to the underside of the upper wing and ailerons (original post has updated photograph) :)
Mike
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Do you use the Xtradecal stripes straight off the sheet, or do you microcoat or do something to them first? I ask as my experience with them has been less than satisfactory, breaking and crumbling as you apply. Maybe just the batches I have tried.
Sandy
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Do you use the Xtradecal stripes straight off the sheet, or do you microcoat or do something to them first? I ask as my experience with them has been less than satisfactory, breaking and crumbling as you apply. Maybe just the batches I have tried.
Sandy
Hi Sandy,
Yes, that's about it.
Few seconds in warm water.
No surface preparation, apart from a smooth finish.
I use a brush to slide them of their backing sheet and position them.
Then press out residual water and apply 'MicroSol'.
They do slide around easily as there doesn't seem much adhesive on them.
But once fixed down, no problem,
Mike
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Hi all,
I've had work done to my home, so haven't been able to model much the last week or so.
However, I'm back onto the Scout now and continuing the underside decals for pre-shading.
The upper wing, ailerons and tailplane/elevator are done.
Once I receive more 'Xtradecal' stripes, I can complete the lower wings and fuselage,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/preshade1.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/preshade1D.jpg)
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Lots of it there. You put in a lot of work and it looks like a very interesting result. Can't wait to finish the wings. Beautiful work.
Lukasz
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That looks like really time consuming work but I am sure the results will be Fantastic!
RAGIII
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Hi all,
While I wait for more decals I thought I'd hit the two figures.
Both are from 'Copper State Models' to accompany their Bristol Scout,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/pilot3.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/mech3.jpg)
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Wow! Jaw dropped... fantastic figures!
Fantastic work overall and it'll be very interesting to see how decal project turns out.
/Fredrik
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Excellent work on the figures Mike!
RAGIII
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Lovely work on the wings Mike. Your figures are excellent as always.
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Interesting idea with the decals for the internal structure seen on undersides. Yet, I think I will stay at the permanent pen - contrary to what other experience I have no problems with possible bleeding the ink - acrylic paints cause me no issues.
Anyway, I am looking forward to see your results! up till now - a pleasure to follow, as usual ;)
-
Catching up on your build this morning, Mike and I have to say the work you've done on the framework lines looks great. A nice option to consider when tackling the job of showing the internal structure through CDL.
Cheers,
Gary
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Wonderful figures Mike, hope the decal strips arrive soon.
Richie
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Hi all,
A couple of updates.
As the mechanic figure will be refueling the aircraft from a container, I needed to make a funnel.
This was made from 0.3 mm thick plastic card and a piece of stretch sprue for the pipe.
painted with 'Mr. Colour' Stainless Steel (213) with 'Tamiya' Clear Yellow (X24) inside to represent fuel.
Two spare label decals were applied from my 'spares' box.
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/funnel2.jpg)
The propeller is a laminated wood propeller made by Alexey Belov at 'Proper Plane'.
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/prop3.jpg)
Mike
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Lovely Prop as always from Alexi! The fuel filler/container is excellent!
RAGIII
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Hi all,
Undersides of the lower wings and the fuselage now pre-shaded with the 'XtraDecal' stripes.
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/preshade2D.jpg)
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That's a beautiful scratch built funnel Mike. The decals have arrived and been put to good use. Will you be masking and painting the roundels? The reason I ask is that I will be using decal strips for rib tapes on my project. The thought of masks ripping the decals off is quite horrifying. I was wondering how this can be avoided
Richie
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That's a beautiful scratch built funnel Mike. The decals have arrived and been put to good use. Will you be masking and painting the roundels? The reason I ask is that I will be using decal strips for rib tapes on my project. The thought of masks ripping the decals off is quite horrifying. I was wondering how this can be avoided
Richie
Hi Richie,
Yes the 'ghost' roundels on the wing undersides will be airbrushed.
The sequence is to seal the decals with a clear coat.
Then mist airbrush white over them to blend them back.
Then re-seal as before.
Hopefully that will protect the decals and paint for masking and airbrushing the roundels, which ill be faded to represent how they'd be seen from the undersides.
Another sealing coat the apply the CDL decals,
Mike
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Thanks Mike, I'll give that a try. I'd better experiment first on some scrap styrene.
Richie
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Hi all,
Fuselage sides now pre-shaded with the 'XtraDecal' stripes.
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/preshade4.jpg)
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Ok at this point stripes appears too much isn't it ?.
So you are thinking to paint a coat of fabric color airbrushed uppon the decals tofade the structure ? I imagined you would fade them under the decals...
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Ok at this point stripes appears too much isn't it ?.
So you are thinking to paint a coat of fabric color airbrushed uppon the decals tofade the structure ? I imagined you would fade them under the decals...
Hi Xan,
Yes the 'ghost' roundels on the wing undersides will be airbrushed.
The sequence is to seal the decals with a clear coat.
Then mist airbrush white over them to blend them back.
Then re-seal as before.
Hopefully that will protect the decals and paint for masking and airbrushing the roundels, which will be faded to represent how they'd be seen from the undersides.
Another sealing coat then apply the CDL decals over it all,
Mike
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Ok Mike,
show must go on!
good luck, I don't doubt it will be terrific!
Xan
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Obviously a labor of love. Lovely for us to watch!
Dan
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You're putting a lot of work into this. It will show when completed.
I hope you don't run into problems with masking pulling up the pre-shading decals.
-
I think if the decals are well sealed this should be fine using some form of washi tape for masking.
Steve
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You're putting a lot of work into this. It will show when completed.
I hope you don't run into problems with masking pulling up the pre-shading decals.
Hi Kent,
I've used tracing paper for masking the 'ghost' roundels on the underside of the upper wing.
This doesn't stick to anything and the masks are held in place using rubber tipped clothes pegs.
Probably not much use for full painted markings but OK for faded markings,
Mike
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Hi all,
Well, the decal pre-shading test didn't turn out too bad I guess.
Airbrush primed with 'AK Interactive' White primer (AK759).
Polished with a 'Flory Models' Green polishing stick.
Airbrushed with 'Alclad' Aqua Gloss 600.
Pre-shade decals applied using 'Xtradecal' Parallel stripes black set (XPS1).
Light coat of 'AK Interactive' White primer (AK759) airbrush to fade back the decals.
Airbrushed with 'Alclad' Aqua Gloss 600 as a sealing coat.
'Ghost' roundels airbrushed on underside of upper wing using tracing paper masks (don't stick and lift decals).
Light coat of 'AK Interactive' White primer (AK759) airbrush to fade back the roundels.
Staining airbrushed with 'Tamiya' Smoke (X19).
Airbrushed with 'Alclad' Aqua Gloss 600 as a sealing coat.
‘Aviattic’ Bleached CDL (clear backed) (ATT32044) decals applied (cut to shape).
Kit supplied decals applied (serial number made from ‘Xtradecal’ RAF letters and numbers set (X32021).
NOTE: All decals applied with added PVA adhesine in the decal water (helps to stick the decals down without, if any, silvering)
All of this still needs weathering, detail painting and final light sheen final coat (to lessen the gloss).
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/decsdone1.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/decsdone2.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/decsdone3.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/decsdone4.jpg)
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Looks Nice Mike.
RAGIII
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That decal strip method for showing the frame structure has worked out really well Mike. You must be very pleased with the outcome.
Richie
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“Hi all,
Well, the decal pre-shading test didn't turn out too bad I guess.”
Well if this isn’t the understatement of the year I don’t know what is!
Brilliant fabric effects Mike, well done.
Tim
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I was wondering if the dark decal strips wouldn't create too stark a contrast, but this looks fantastic! Well done! Ghost markings look excellent, too!
/Fredrik
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Hi Mike.
Fantastic work, very very interesting...
The fabric seems more white than I expected,Is it the picture?
I imagine you want you can use oil paints over the linen decal, even very diluated acrylic paint airbrushed...
Xan
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Did you take pics of the model just before you put the linen decals ?
-
Very fine see-through effects.
-
Hi Mike.
Fantastic work, very very interesting...
The fabric seems more white than I expected,Is it the picture?
I imagine you want you can use oil paints over the linen decal, even very diluated acrylic paint airbrushed...
Xan
Hi Xan,
Yes it is lighter than the sandy coloured Clear Doped Linen we normally see.
But I tried to base finish on an actual Bristol Scout.
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/struct7.jpg)
Here's a couple of shots just before applying the CDL decals.
Shows the 'ghost' roundels and decal pre-shading over sprayed to fade them.
I'm not sure about using oil paint rendering over applied decals.
I think the white spirit or odorless thinners could damage the decals.
OK on painted only surfaces though.
I'll probably use the 'Flory Models' fine clay washes as I normally do, as those are totally inert and won't damage the decals,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/preshadedone1.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/preshadedone2.jpg)
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That turned out very good. Those Aviattic decals really conform to all those surface details.
When you spray the Alclad Aqua Gloss, do you spray multiple coats or just one? Is one coat enough to give a smooth surface?
The PVA adhesive you use - what brand is it?
Hope you don't mind the questions.
-
That turned out very good. Those Aviattic decals really conform to all those surface details.
When you spray the Alclad Aqua Gloss, do you spray multiple coats or just one? Is one coat enough to give a smooth surface?
The PVA adhesive you use - what brand is it?
Hope you don't mind the questions.
Hi Kent,
I usually airbrush a couple of coats of clear gloss, as the first tends to soak into the primer a little.
Also I make sure the primed surface is as smooth as possible beforehand.
The PVA adhesive is nothing special.
It's the standard white adhesive used to glue wood together or for sealing plaster board etc.
Standard 'builders' PVA adhesive,
Mike
-
Thanks, Mike. I'll continue to follow along.
-
Looks great so far. You said the decal experiment was a success but would you use the process again on a regular basis?
Steve
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Looks great so far. You said the decal experiment was a success but would you use the process again on a regular basis?
Steve
Hi Steve,
I think it would depend on the particular aircraft, how defined its visible internal structure is and how translucent the linen covering was.
It probably does take longer to apply than masking and is obviously more delicate (until sealed) than paint.
Also you'd need several of the decal sets as each on its own does not have sufficient on one of the stripes.
Trying this method was partly due to the Bristol Scouts visible and more defined internal structure and partly out of curiosity,
Mike
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Hi all,
The surfaces were airbrushed with 'Alclad' Light Sheen (ALC-311), which give enough 'grip' for the clay wash.
'Flory Models' clay wash (Dark Dirt) was then brush heavily over the model.
Next up is to remove the wash with slightly dampened kitchen absorbent paper, to achieve the desired weathering effect,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/washon.jpg)
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That's the part you do that always looks scary!!.....looking forward to the big reveal!
Steve
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Hi all,
The clay wash has been removed to give the effect of a well used Bristol Scout.
A final sealing coat of 'Alclad' Light Sheen (ALC-311) was airbrushed to seal it all,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/washoff1.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/washoff2.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/washoff3.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/washoff4.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/washoff5.jpg)
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Mike,
That clay wash is a very nice effect which I will be exploring, very impressive. Just another masterpiece from your talented bench to add to your classic collection, great work yet again and a pleasure to follow!
Cheers,
Lance
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Mike,
That clay wash is a very nice effect which I will be exploring, very impressive. Just another masterpiece from your talented bench to add to your classic collection, great work yet again and a pleasure to follow!
Cheers,
Lance
Agreed!
RAGIII
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Great jump!! Always amazes me when these results come out of the previous step.
Steve
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Hi all,
For those that want to add that little extra detail to this model
Edgar from 'Copper State Models' messaged me with some detail information, which I confirmed with David Bremner (Scout 1264).
When the models ailerons are fitted to the wings, there is a 'ledge' between the trailing edge of the wings and leading edge of the ailerons.
As I understand it, the ledge represents the 'nosing piece', which was made from Spruce wood.
This strip was attached the rear face of the wing rear spar and had a rounded profile at its end.
The front spar of the ailerons were channeled to accept the rounded end of the 'nosing piece'.
It was effectively an air flow seal between the wings and ailerons, filling the gap made by the aileron hinges.
As the ailerons moved up or down, the end of the 'nosing piece' remained in the aileron channel and stopped airflow passing between the wing and aileron.
The linen covering of the wings and ailerons were wrapped around the edges and secured in place, most likely by either adhesive or tacks.
Therefore that thin strip between the wings and ailerons should be painted as exposed wood and not as being linen covered.
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/nosingpiece1.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/ailerons.jpg)
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The "ghost" markings and ribs look fantastic Mike, well done!
The linen weave effect looks very pronounced in the photos - is that due to the camera? Photos of 1264's covering (https://bristolscout.wordpress.com/2014/07/06/119-linen-covering-a-summary/) don't show it to be quite as "severe".
-
Great effects with that clay wash. I’ll have to try this out.
-
The "ghost" markings and ribs look fantastic Mike, well done!
The linen weave effect looks very pronounced in the photos - is that due to the camera? Photos of 1264's covering (https://bristolscout.wordpress.com/2014/07/06/119-linen-covering-a-summary/) don't show it to be quite as "severe".
Hi Zac,
The shots are pretty close to what's seen with the naked eye.
These particular decals are more subtle than the 'Aviattic' basic linen effect decals, which can look too obvious over light colours.
The effect can obviously be seen, but like any modelling, there's no perfect answer.
I think it's a matter of personal preference as to whether a modeler applies linen decals or not.
Personally I like the effect they give, even if to some they may seem over-scale.
At the end of the day there's only two choices - use decals or don't.
I've done both and have seen many amazing models that were only painted.
However, with companies such as 'Aviattic' and now 'Lukgraph' creating linen effect decals, there is obviously a market for them.
Agreed regards 1294's appearance, but that aircraft has been recovered in recent years and at the end of the day is a show bird, not a grimy war plane,
Mike
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Teel me Mike How did you proceed to install the linen decals . did you cut them before?, just at the right size, using drawing for exemple ?
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Teel me Mike How did you proceed to install the linen decals . did you cut them before?, just at the right size, using drawing for exemple ?
Hi Xan,
The outline shapes of the wings, tailplane, ailerons, elevator and rudder were pencil traced onto the rear side of the decal sheet.
Then cut out and applied.
The decals for the wheel covers were cut as circles using a 'Thinnerline' circle cutter.
The front cover decals were sliced from the centre on one side to remove a thin triangle of decal.
This allows the decal to conform over the raised profile of the front covers.
The various fuselage decals were made by using tracing paper to mark the outlines then cut out.
The templates are checked against the model to make sure they fit correctly.
Then they're used to mark the outlines onto the decal sheet and the decals cut and applied.
Mike
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Ok thank you!
-
Hi all,
Just a quick update.
The landing gear struts were wrapped in linen to protect them and strengthen them against splitting.
I chose the apply the 'Aviattic' CDL decal to the struts, not that you can see much of it.
I also dirtied the gear using the 'Flory Models' Dark Dirt wash.
The axle was replaced with 1.2 mm diameter Brass tube.
Now onto pre-rigging,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/gear2.jpg)
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Hi all,
Just for interest.
Here's a piece of CDL linen removed from David Bremner's Bristol Scout 1264 when it was recovered,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/linen.jpg)
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Wow, very cool! As a landscape painter I'm pretty familiar with canvas textures, and that's a really open weave, far more than I'd have guessed for an aircraft covering. That would qualify as a "rough" surface with an artist's linen.
I can see why you went the Aviattic route.
Dave V.
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Stunning work as usual Mike.
Thank you for explaining the painting and weathering in such detail. There is so much to learn from your build logs!
Cheers,
Willem
-
I also am surprised to see how loose the weave is in the fabric. Very interesting.
-
It's looking absolutely spot on Mike. I love the extra details you have posted about. Great addition to our knowledge of the type.
Your weathering is very true to the appearance of 1264 when I first saw it a few years ago. It was gloriously filthy with oil stains, very different to the pristine machine now in hangar 1 at Old Warden.
Richie
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I'm surprised too! And that's a doped item, not "raw"?
A hat may need to be eaten in New Zealand ;D
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Hi all,
Update on the Scout build.
I've pre-rigged the assembly and upper wing.
For this model I've not used tubing to secure the lines to the turnbuckles.
Instead I looped the lines through the turnbuckles the twisted the line and secured it together using thin CA adhesive.
I've used the 'Gaspatch' 1:48th scale metal turnbuckles (Type B) for most of the rigging.
These better represent the way the turnbuckles were attached to pivot on their mounting brackets.
Some double ended (Type C) turnbuckles are used for flight control cables.
Now it's onto fitting the upper wing,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/frig1.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/frig6.jpg)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/frig7.jpg)
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I'm surprised too! And that's a doped item, not "raw"?
it does say so on the little card :D :D (j/k)
I have this model as well, with the linen, and was also amazed by how "open" the weave is, but also how stiff it is, probably due to the dopes. It'll definately make a nice display with the model.
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Yours looks great, Mike -thanks for leading the way! I wish my job wasn't so busy at the moment, don't really have a lot of time, and when I do, I'm not really in the mood somehow, so thanks for the inspiration :)
Jeroen
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Hi all,
Upper wing on.
Now for final rigging,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/frig8.jpg)
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Looking great Mike!
RAGIII
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Oh what a lovely little plane this has become!
Andreas
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Fantastic, Mike!
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Wow that pops!
Steve
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Hi all,
Model is now rigged.
Still more small details and parts to add,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/rigfin1.JPG)
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/rigfin2.jpg)
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Absolutely stunning. This is the first of your build logs I've been able to follow in real time... the PDFs and archived posts are always fun to read, but it's a blast being able to see the day to day progress.
Dave V.
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Hi all,
The Bristol Scout 1260 model is more or less complete.
Added details include open access panels, refueling funnel with removed tank filler cap, external starter switch and all rigging.
Also an over wing Lewis machine gun with gun sight, butt latch on decking panel and trigger cable.
Finally a pilot and mechanic figure stood on a trestle.
I still have to make the display for this model.
Once done I'll of course post final photographs and upload my PDF build log to my web site.
Thanks for your support and comments during this build,
Mike
(https://www.thatoneplease.co/buildlogs/B-SCOUT/done.jpg)
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Stunning results Mike!
RAGIII
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That looks fantastic, Mike.
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That is a fantastic looking model! I really, really like the variations in the white, as well as all the detailing.
/Fredrik
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What a gem Mike, that is so lovely. I really looked forward to seeing you build this elegant biplane and you have surpassed my expectations!
Richie
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Spectacular result Mike.
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Beautifully done Mike. I especially like the linen finish and weathering.
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Hi all,
Completed shots are now up in the Completed Models page.
Mike