Sorry for being late to this excellent thread. As was mentioned, I do have some experience with resin kits. But Alexis has done a great job giving lots of advice that I would also sign to.
Maybe a few comments from my experience. One came to my mind when I saw that question from Rick
I hope you don't mind a specific question. I have the proper PE blades for resin cutting. I still am questioning how one removes parts like this prop from the blocks. The prop blades are Extremely thin. Any suggestions appreciated!
RAGIII
I would still use the razor saw to cut the bulk of the resin cast block but leaving about 2 mm thick layer of it, I would not do it just at the connection to the real part. Thus one avoids putting to much stress to the delicate element, much more fragile than the solid casting block.
Then I would remove the remainder of the block, slice after slice, with a sharp razor blade. I prefer these to modelling knives because they have much thinner blades and do not stress the resin bits too much. The last layer I would remove by delicate sanding.
And a comment on adhesives. I use two types of CA glue only - thin and gel. And for the majority of assembly I use the thin one. I secure the elements to be joined observing the proper geometry - with tape (fuselage halves), cardboard templates (wings to fuselage), any kind of supports (struts), whatever suits better and then simply pour the glue into the joints. When it gets hold at several spots I remove the element from the jig and fill the remainder of the joints. After that I clean the excess of the glue.
Once I tried epoxy glue which gives some time for the geometry adjustment but then I discovered its strength was not satisfactory and had to redo the joints with CA.
For cleaning the resin elements I use mild detergent. I have never had any problem with painting after this. But definitely using the alcohol is more secure.
And I will be glad to answer any further questions.
