forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Under Construction => Scratch builds => Topic started by: lone modeller on March 26, 2020, 10:41:54 AM
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Evening All,
“It is a truth universally acknowledged, that every serious aircraft modeller makes pusher biplanes, either from kits, vacuforms, conversions or scratch builds: they are landplanes, floatplanes or flying boats, and can have a combination of tractor and pusher engines. Ideally they should be in God’s Own Scale, but other scales are permitted. When the modeller has built up a suitable collection in the Proper Scale, it is quite appropriate for them to turn to a larger scale and build them in strip-down form.”
Making Real Model Aeroplanes by Lone Modeller, Idontgoto University Press, (in prep).
In keeping with the above, I will attempt to build another large scale (1/32) strip-down pusher, this time the Airco de Haviland D. H. 1A.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/4088/34828851663_b44f26a1b1_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/V4GYbt)
When I built the Vickers FB 5 Gunbus I wrote that this was an alternative possibility but because of a lack of information about some parts of the machine, especially the internals of the nacelle, I chose to attempt the Vickers. I am still lacking some information but have come to the conclusion that it probably does not exist. Consequently I intend to use modeller's license and the fact that G. de Haviland helped to design the Royal Aircraft Factory FE 2a: the two machines were remarkably similar in many ways. Given this I intend to construct what I think is a plausible representation - if anyone has contradictory evidence I would be very pleased to have it.
I have already converted one of these from the Airfix 1/72 D.H. 4, the build log of which is at https://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=3261.0
It looks like this:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/4214/35598410906_5b128c05e1_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WeHakh)
So I have put together my kit which consists of the usual plastic strip, card, rod, brass rod and bar, wood, thread, etc and some odds and ends from specialist suppliers:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/4042/34815762504_0b593771d1_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/V3xTej)
As the engine in the above image is a bit small and the wrong type, I have selected this lovely specimen from WingnutWings:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49695060451_ff15372f52_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iHob86)
I had toyed with the idea of making one of these from scratch but decided that I might want to build another model before senility prevents me from doing so. I also used these wheels on the Gunbus and recommend them to anyone building early aircraft in this scale:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49695060311_601d7e3ba5_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iHob5F)
I used these instrument bezels on the Gunbus and although they are barely visible on the model at least I know that they are there together with Airscale transfers for the instrument faces (not illustrated here):
(https://live.staticflickr.com/1742/41817451215_2bf8510dbf_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/26Hgnmc)
Another small detail will be provided by resin representations of the pulsometers:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/1974/44689808234_6215cd82d2_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2b65X25)
That is enough pre-manufactured material, now to start the real modelling. The Gunbus was a half-strip down model but that presented unforseen problems because the weight is concentrated on one side, making the model inherently unstable and in need of permanent support to stop it leaning. The undercarriage is also not as strong as I would like it to be, so I have decided to build this model as a complete strip down. This means that all of the interior detail in the fuselage nacelle and the engine will be fully exposed, together with the structure of the flying surfaces. I know that there are kits that represent different aircraft in varying degrees of strip down, but as far as I am aware, none of the Airco D.H. 1A.
I have been experimenting with some parts as I was finishing the FE 2d, the first being how to make the wing ribs. There are rather a lot of them and they have to be the same size in two patterns: some with holes and some with slots and holes. To ensure that they are all the same size I am using the following procedure:
a. cut a length of 60 x 180 thou Evergreen strip (top)
b. shape the strip to the shape of the rib. This will be the master strip for all subsequent ribs of this size. (second from top)
c. using the master as a template, cut and shape another piece of plastic strip and mark on with a sharp pencil where the spars pass through (4th from top)
d. drill holes between the lines which mark the spars (bottom)
e. cut out square holes for the brass bar spars (middle):
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49695060371_55fafd9f69_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iHob6H)
Complete the rib by drilling holes and cutting the slots as necessary. There are 40 full chord and 29 narrower chord ribs to make for both sets of wings, so I will make some and then work on another part of the model, go back and make some more, repeat etc until they are all made....
I also want to try out another idea which is to use wood laminate for the propellor. I have already commented elsewhere that British propellors were made from laminated mahogonay or similar wood and so should be uniformly dark, as on my Gunbus, but I decided to be a little inaccurate on this model and have used two types of wood instead. Strips of laminate were cut to length:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49695365852_aa84c92e8e_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iHpJUC)
These were glued with Evostick wood glue which dries clear, and the piece put under a press overnight:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49694520993_a6f7d4411f_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iHkpL6)
Not much chance of that delaminating when it is shaped! First mark out the plan of the propellor and file the wood so that the basic outline of the propellor is made:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49695365312_e7ffd37694_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iHpJKj)
I marked on both surfaces where the bosses would be and the curved flat faces between the bosses and the edges of the blades. By carefully filing one face at a time the propellor can be shaped:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49695365212_e6fd264723_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iHpJHA)
As stated this is not strictly accurate as the laminations should be much thinner and darker but most people who look at the model will not be aware of this and I want something a little different.
It may be a little while before the next post because although like others I am currently confined to my home, I have rather a lot of ribs to make and I need to work out the internal structure of the nacelle, and then how to start making that and the internal fittings.
If you have been, thanks for looking.
Stephen.
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Stephen,
Great choice of subject and, with the decision to use a hand carved prop, a great start! This is going to be a stunner I know, and being a partial "Strip Down" the detail should be spectacular. I'm looking forward to following your progress on this one!
Cheers,
Lance
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Stephen,
I'm invested. :) I look forward to seeing this build develop.
Cheers,
bb ;)
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What larks!
The WNW engines are so nice, light and easy to work with, and cover so many early aeroplanes. Having those and the Gaspatch guns makes scratchbuilding much easier
I'm planning to do uncovered wheels on my COW biplane, I'm interested to see how these compare to the Gaspatch Palmers
Richard
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I had two reactions:
1) OOOOOH, nice!
2) What scale did you say????
I'll still be watching though
Stay safe!
Ian
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You certainly do not take a break do you! Your prop is looking great and I am sure this one will rival the Vickers! I will of course, follow along completely!
RAGIII
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Ok Stephen, you are doing it again. There’s a huge lack of information regarding certain details of this machine, so you build it —-stripdown :). You were annoyed by the Fe2d pusher and so return to another pusher for your next project. That’s the kind of madness I really love (there are also some scratch build pushers or lattice tails in my mind like a Voisin VIII or a Farman... so I will of course follow again your progress happily and with excitement. And I am sure I will learn a lot :)
Andreas
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This is going to be goooood ;) Pulling up my chair :)
Terri
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Following along, too.
Good start, Stephen.
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LOLOLOL....Love the opening paragraph Steve, well done.. Regards, Pete in RI
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STOP! WAIT! Inline engines do not use pulseometers, only rotary's. Inlines use pressure pumps and fuel pressure gauges and gravity tanks in addition to the main (pressurized) tank.
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I think we are near to see another gem.
I built only one pusher in my life, a Fiat F5b and, yes, they are fascinating subjects, not simple to build.
I will follow!
Roberto
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Evening All
Thank you Lance, Bob, Richard, Ian, Rick, Andreas, Terri, Ken, Pete and Andy for you most encouraging comments. I really appreciate the support that you and other fellow modellers give.
Ian: I apologise for the scale error, but I hope that my explanation at the start of the previous post offers sufficient reason for the change - it is simply impractical to make a strip down model in God's Own Scale but I can assure you that I will return to the fold later. BTW it is good to see that you have succumbed at last the allure of pushers!
Andreas: yes I am mad - I must be because I am a wholly eccentric Englishman! After the FE 2d I have to restore my confidence that I can build one, after all I have a reputation to consider! Please do more than think about a Voisin - I have scratched on in 1/72 but you would produce a masterpiece from which we could all learn in a larger scale.
Pete: thank you for the comment about pulseometers - I had wholly misunderstood their purpose until I looked them up after your comment. I have put my unopened pack safely into storage for the time being - they may be used later on another as yet unknown project.
I have been making ribs - I have to make rather lot - but constantly having to drill holes using a hand chuck has caused strain in my arm so I am having a break from that and have started work on the nacelle instead. I will continue making ribs, but rather than make them all in one go as originally intended, I will make two or three per evening, and hope that I do not lose track of what I have made and what I still need to make. Then I have the riblets to make for the wing leading edges.....
I do not have any detailed information about the nacelle - I have been able to work out some of the framework, where there were engine bearers, fuel tank, some stringers on the sides, the pilot had a seat but the observer probably had a simpler flat folding(?) board, and I know that the nose was metal. Apart from that It is pretty much guesswork. I am using the wonderful drawings of the interior and structure of the FE 2B from the DatatFile No 147 because G de Haviland helped to design that machine and I am sure that he took ideas and incorporated them in the DH 1/1A. So I have made some scale drawings of what I think the design may have looked like but if anyone knows better please tell me soon because I have started to make the nacelle. Deciding what to use took almost as much time as working out what the nacelle may have looked like: I mocked up a side using plastic strip, and guidance for size of material from the FE 2b drawings:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49728086728_6e631e2f8d_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iLirFE)
The bottom longeron was deeper than the upper parts and I have decided that the spacing of the verticals is wrong. It has also confirmed to me that it is not practical to join the wing spars to an all plastic structure: the spars will be made from brass bar, and I am not happy about using CA or epoxy to join the spars to a plastic strip. I do not want this to fall apart just when I am at the rigging stage for example. So after yet another morning of working in a crabwise manner towards a solution I decided to make the upper part of the structure from brass bar and just the lower longeron from plastic. My reasoning is that on the FE 2 the lower longeron was wider than the upper parts of the nacelle frame because it was carrying extra weight and therefore was more heavily stressed, so G. de Haviland probably used the same idea in his second pusher. I decided to use 1/16 square brass bar for the upper part of the nacelle and 60 x 80 strip for the lower longerons. The lower longerons will not be carrying much weight so they can be epoxied to the uprights of the nacelle frame. Brass bar was cut and soldered in the usual fashion to make up two sides:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49728086793_c6e5bbcdf1_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iLirGM)
then the top frames were joined to one of the sides followed by the other. In doing this I discovered how easy it is to cause solder to melt when trying to join a new piece which is at 90 degrees to one already soldered. This is a good test of patience I decided, but I did get there in the end:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49728950067_24aa6b78fe_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iLnSjP)
The observant reader will have noticed that the uprights at the rear of the nacelle were angled forwards to meet the rear spar, and that the front spar was probably bolted to the lower longeron beneath another upright. I intend to use these two uprights as points to solder the model spars: these will make much stronger unions than trying to use epoxy or CA with brass and plastic. Therefore it was imperative that the ends of the two rear uprights were in precisely the right place. This was easy to do - mount two ribs on to two pieces of brass bar which will be used for spars on the model and use them as a guide for spacing the ends of the uprights:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49728086618_ce3340e2f1_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iLirDL)
The nacelle frame now looks like this from the front,:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49728950132_598e2f961c_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iLnSkW)
and like this from the side:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49728950192_3f66e7ca66_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iLnSmY)
Now I can start to make parts for the interior - these will be from plastic for the most part. I will also continue to make more ribs and riblets for the wings....
Thanks for looking.
Stephen.
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Stephen, your brass frame looks great. Joining three or more parts by soldering is tough without proper jigs to hold everything in place. Nice engineering on all accounts. I think the engineering part is what I enjoy most about scratchbuilding. It involves creativity and practicality.
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I glue about 4 pre made parts and in that time you scratch build and solder a complete frame ::) You are amazing!
RAGIII
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Really nice job on wiping that up Stephen , most excellent :)
Terri
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Hi Steven, I just checked my books and unfortunately I don't have anything that isn't already covered by your Datafile. Regards, Pete in RI
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How did I miss this so far? Stephen, what you're cooking here is just the way I like it. :)
Wooden propeller and soldered frame - thumbs up!
I will follow closely,
Frank
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Evening All,
Thanks Ken, Rick, Terri, Pete and Frank for the supportive comments, they are truly appreciated.
Pete there is no need to worry about the details of the interior, if you read on you will find out why.
I have already described how G. de Haviland had been heavily involved in the design of the RAF FE 2a and later 2b before he left the Royal Aircraft Factory to join the Aircraft Manufacturing Company as the chief designer. I have also stated that I do not have drawings of the interior of the DH 1/1A, but both the FE 2a and the DH 1 were powered by 100hp Renault engines, and the FE 2b and DH 1A were powered by 120 hp Beardmore engines. I spent a morning and more earlier this week trying to make plausible drawings for the interior of the DH 1A based loosely on the FE 2b and thought that the engine installation should be similar on both the 2b and 1A. One of the key differences between the RAF and DH machines was that the former had a bulbous forward nacelle which tapered rearwards whereas the DH nacelle had parallel sides. The engines in both machines were mounted on frames inside the rear nacelle. It was only today when I closely compared the drawings of the two nacelles that I realised just how similar they were - even down to the length! Then the penny dropped! The DH 1A was almost a copy of the FE 2b although de Haviland made some modifications based on what he must have learned from the test flights of the prototype FE 2b. Now I have worked out without much difficulty the probable construction of the engine mounts and fuel tank, radiator installation, etc in the rear of the DH 1A and it must have been very similar to the FE. I suspect that the same applied to the cockpits - after all why try to reinvent the wheel? Ken: I have had a lesson in creativity and practicality
This means that I have had to modify the fuselage frame somewhat: I have taken out the rear upper cross member and installed two extra vertical supports at the rear. These vertical supports would have been anchor points for cross members which were below the engine, which in turn would have carried two longerons on which the sides of the engine rested - just like the FE 2b! Doh!! The horizontal pieces and engine bearer longerons will be added from plastic strip later - they can be held with CA as they will only be supporting a plastic engine, so the main fuselage frame now looks like this:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49739092298_a6799a581d_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iMgRfS)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49739962687_5b537ca250_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iMmiZz)
Now I can fit the engine and I know roughly where the fuel tank will go, so I think that I have worked out the key elements of the interior and can now make the different parts. Sometimes it is only by doing something that the blindingly obvious becomes visible!
I have been fiddling with the engine in order to work out the precise dimensions and location of the bearers, and discovered that the parts tree for the Wingnutwings engine does not have an oil tank or exhaust pipe. I made up an oil tank from a piece of thick sprue and have found another piece of the correct diameter for the exhaust pipe, which I will make later. I have also made the blanks for the radiator from a sandwich of 2 x 80 thou card. I am trying to think about what to use to represent the mesh on the front and rear of the radiator - if anyone has any ideas I would be pleased to read about them. In the meantime here are the radiator blank, oil tank, lower part of the engine and frame:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49739092218_7359f0b97c_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iMgReu)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49739962647_918c81594d_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iMmiYT)
The second picture shows that the parts will fit as they should when the various sticking out bits on the rear, (forward end in the photo - because the engine was mounted as a pusher the front end of the engine is at the rear of the aircraft), are put into place later.
More to come if you have not lost interest already.
Stephen.
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Not having seen the radiator on the real thing, I can suggest representing it with either a photoetch radiator face from the car modeling realm, or fine wire mesh. You will have to get creative again on where to find such a thing - maybe a tea ball or strainer of some sort.
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Nice work on the radiator to date! Good to see that all will fit in place!
RAGIII
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Stephen, that is a very nice arrangement!
I forgot to mention last time:
These were glued with Evostick wood glue which dries clear, and the piece put under a press overnight:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49694520993_a6f7d4411f_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iHkpL6)
Books can be heavy, but I can recommend a bench vice. It allows even higher forces in a very controlled way.
I am trying to think about what to use to represent the mesh on the front and rear of the radiator - if anyone has any ideas I would be pleased to read about them.
In the last years I found the finest mesh in the form of very modern pyramid tea bags which are made of polylactide, a bioplastics. One example:
(https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0120/1982/products/RL00733_0114.jpg)
I used this material in my Bristol Fighter the first time.
Cheers,
Frank
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Frank,
Normally my improvised press is good enough for my needs - the more so as I lack space for many specialist tools (partly because I have so many books!!)
The idea with the tea bag looks just like the answer that I was looking for. I will certainly try out that idea. Thanks for the tip.
Stephen.
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Sorry to be late joining this one Stephen, still finding my way round the forum. Another very interested follower here.
Very impressed by how quickly you get things together. Love the propeller too!
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You know, Sir, that you are mad. Stark, raving, bounce off the walls mad. Good to see you have relaxed and are enjoying the problem.
Great work on one helluva project. Sharing your research and deductions is much appreciated.
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Evening All,
Thanks Ken, Rick and Richie for your interest - it is good to have you along. Richie - no need to worry about finding your way around the site - there is a huge amount of material on the site and it takes a long time to find it all!
You know, Sir, that you are mad. Stark, raving, bounce off the walls mad.
OM: that is one of the best remarks I have been given for a very long time!!! I completely agree with you - anyone who scratch builds pushers must be verging on the edge of complete insanity, and I seem to scratch build more of them than most!
Stephen.
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Evening All
The snail continues to move forwards - just. I am still in the process of making the wing ribs - and there seems to be plenty of them! However they are not very photogenic, (see one and you have seen them all), so not much to show there. In between times I have been working on parts of the cockpit interiors which are modelled on the FE 2b for reasons given in the previous post and form the subject of this update.
First up is the pilot's seat. These were constructed from aluminium and had holes and slots to make them lighter. I used a piece of 30 thou card for the flat and 20 thou for the back. These were joined with liquid cement - in two stages so that stage one involved half of the seat back only. This was held while the cement dried. The the second half could be pulled around the curve of the seat rear and cemented and held with an old hair clip. The result was that the back was properly aligned with the seat. Only when this was really set did I proceed to drill the holes in the sides and the slots in the rear:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49799649062_b34eaa33a3_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iSCdF1)
Next was the fuel tank. This was a 35 gallon container - the same as on the FE 2b so I was able to use the 1/32 scale drawings in the DataFile no 147 to work out both the size and shape. A piece of 20 thou card formed the ends and body, and three 30 thou formers were made to strengthen it. The faces of the 20 thou end pieces were embossed by using the blunt end of a nail file. These were cemented to two of the 30 thou formers. The formers were cemented on to the centre of the card which will form the body of the tank:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49799648912_23a06ff817_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iSCdCq)
Note the same method was used here as for the pilot's seat - only part of the unit was made so that the formers could be rigidly attached to the card body. When these were properly set the card could be wrapped around half of the formers and held while the cement set. Finally the other side of the card was bent around, excess card cut off and the remainder cemented into place and held until it too had set. A little filler in the gaps and all was finished except for the filler pipe:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49799342891_85d1cf2c4e_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iSADEc)
The exhaust pipe was made from a piece of sprue - it came from the same piece as the oil tank described in an earlier post. I have still to drill the exit holes in the end and make the pipes which will connect it to the top of the engine cylinders:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49799649042_512e001885_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iSCdEE)
The pilot's seat was probably fixed via runners to a box structure from which protruded rudder foot boards. The box was easily constructed from card as were the rudder foot boards. The rudder bar pivoted on a small pedestal: this was made from 60 thou card. I will make a rudder bar later form a piece of plastic strip. There was a bulkhead between the pilot and observer cockpits: I modelled mine on the FE 2b and initially made it in one piece. A hole was later cut in the lower part which allowed the pilot's legs to pass through to operate the rudder bar: a box would have covered the pilot's feet and formed a seat for the observer as per the FE 2b, although the shape of the de Haviland seat appears to have been different as shown in photo 28 in DataFile 148. This seat, and the floor of the observer's cockpit will be made later as I need to make these parts to fit and can only do so when I have assembled more of the nacelle structures.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49799342971_a34b779b16_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iSADFz)
The image above shows from left to right:
the bulkhead between the pilot and observer cockpits prior to finishing;
the box for the pilot's seat;
the rudder foot boards and pedestal for the rudder bar;
the pilot's seat.
I made a compass from another small piece of sprue and an instrument panel from 20 thou card, which I scored and bent. A small semicircular platform will support the instrument panel which will sit in front of the upper part of the bulkhead between the pilot and observer. I have also made two semicircles from brass rod which formed a frame for nose cone on the original aircraft: these are waiting to be attached to the main nacelle frame: the upper (smaller) one will be soldered in place later. The parts have been set alongside or in the nacelle frame in the next images but there is an error because I think that I have put the fuel tank filler pipe in the wrong place! I am still not sure where it should properly be but I am inclined to think that it should extend forward because there were two access doors on the sides of the nacelle just behind the pilot's cockpit: if this was the position the pipe would have been rather long but the only rear view of the aircraft in the DataFile 147 shows no sign of any pipe at the rear.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49799648982_cf6947beed_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iSCdDC)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49799648927_47b8e80391_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iSCdCF)
If you have been, thanks for looking.
Stephen.
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Great stuff, Stephen!
Andreas
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Great work Stephen, it's taking shape nicely already. Lots of good tips here too. I imagine the wing ribs are keeping you very occupied!
Can I ask where you buy your materials from?
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Beautiful work on the seat,tank, and the rest of the bits Stephen! Looking superb!
RAGIII
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Thanks Andreas and Rick - your comments are much appreciated.
Great work Stephen, it's taking shape nicely already. Lots of good tips here too. I imagine the wing ribs are keeping you very occupied!
Can I ask where you buy your materials from?
Thanks for your comment Richie - much appreciated too.
I buy my plastic (sheet, rod, strip etc) via mail order - Wonderland Models do an excellent service. The brass rod came from the same source I think, (it is KS metals), but the brass bar which I am using for the spars and nacelle frame came from a specialist supplier which I found on the net, (and cannot recall who they were as I bought this material a couple of years ago). The laminate wood came from Oakdale Crafts and was a sample pack of mixed assorted sheets.
Stephen.
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Great, thanks for the info Stephen. I'm feeling the need to start a few experiments. I bought an assorted pack of wood veneers a while ago and have made up a propeller blank today. Am hoping to have bit of a whittle over the weekend.
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Hey Stephen , excellent job on that seat ! Rest of the details are shaping up nicely as well . Like how you did tank , very effective 8)
Terri
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Evening All,
Thanks Terri for dropping by.
Before I solder the lower wing spars to the nacelle frame I want to make as much of the nacelle interior as possible so that I can align the different parts and make sure that they all fit together when I come to the assembly stage. While the nacelle frame is small it is easily handled and unlikely to be damaged - with the spars attached it becomes a completely different matter. This week I have been making up and detailing the engine.
I am using the excellent Wingnut Wings Beardmore engine which is very good but lacks detail so I have cribbed ideas from Lance's outstanding FE 2b build at https://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=6789.30
I started by adding the cylinders to the sump and then painting both, followed by the rocker arms and push rods, oil and water pumps and cam drive:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49827341062_e79226e7c4_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iV59xh)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49826493098_006e9edc0a_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iUZNtd)
Apologies for the poor quality of the second image: I am not very good with macro shots. The oil lines from the oil pump to the bottom of the cylinders were added from copper wire and 0.3mm brass tube - all CA'd into place. The oil inlets on the kit cylinders had been removed beforehand. The magnetos were added to the front of the engine:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49827340907_0f0b145270_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iV59uB)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49827026526_c3cccaf94c_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iV3x3f)
The water inlet pipe and ignition wire conduit were added and then I could install the ignition wires to the spark plugs:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49827026746_d57c9d9f13_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iV3x73)
and the ignition wires from the magnetos to the wire conduit pipes:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49827340857_5d7ac9c43d_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iV59tK)
I do not normally add much evidence of wear to my models - I find it very difficult to achieve the correct "look" but on the engine I feel that a little oil and grime is in order, so I mixed a wash of Humbrol dark earth and a touch of black and hoped for the best when I brushed it on to the engine. It has certainly taken the shine off the copper cylinders and aluminium sump:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49827026706_3f543c6a5a_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iV3x6m)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49827026681_60bbda6be5_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iV3x5V)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49827340747_f76e383cb5_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iV59rR)
I have still to add oil pipes and control lines to the carburettor and petrol pipe unit, but will not do this until the engine is almost ready to be placed on the nacelle frame as these parts will be both delicate and need to attach to the frame.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49827026476_ba27ee22e2_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iV3x2o)
Instead I have been working on the exhaust pipe and oil tank which are not included in the engine kit. I had made both units from sprue and now I have drilled a hole right through the oil tank so that I can insert and bend to shape a filler/feed pipe from 30 thou rod. I have also drilled the exhaust pipe outlet holes at its rear end and the inlet pipes for 40 thou rod into which the exhaust stubs will eventually be fitted. The oil tank was mounted on the port (left) side of the engine below the exhaust pipe but I cannot make the support arms until the engine is ready to be mounted on the frame in the nacelle.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49826492858_fa5227f7bb_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iUZNp5)
While I was performing a dry run aligning the engine with the water outlet pipe to the radiator I realised that the radiator which I have already made was based on the FE 2b whereas the DH 1A had a smaller rectangular radiator! A new one will be made shortly.....
Thanks for looking.
Stephen.
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Superb detailing on the engine Stephen, it all looks very convincing and real. The washes have worked out very well. Looking forward to the next update already, have you finished cutting out the wing ribs yet?
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Nice work there Stephen, this is coming along very nicely. Macro photography is a double edged sword isn't it. Issues getting the whole piece in focus, the lighting right, wasted shots, finally getting a pic you like and BAM! there is a cat hair right where you don't want it! lolol.
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Great detailing on the engine, Stephen. The weathering looks appropriate, also.
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Beautifully detailed and weathered engine!
RAGIII
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Thanks to you all for the kind comments - much appreciated.
have you finished cutting out the wing ribs yet?
No Richie: I have 12 left to make - they are the smaller ones at the tips of the wings. I have started to make them now and have already made a mess of one of them!
Nice work there Stephen, this is coming along very nicely. Macro photography is a double edged sword isn't it. Issues getting the whole piece in focus, the lighting right, wasted shots, finally getting a pic you like and BAM! there is a cat hair right where you don't want it! lolol.
No cat's hairs any more for me because sadly I do not have cats any more. Just as well because one that I used to have had a habit of jumping on to my desk where I was working - and he was big and not too bothered about what he pushed to one side! Rascal!!
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Stephen, I would say this look like a Beardmore engine for sure! Lovely details :-*
Always a pleasure to find one of your updates.
Cheers,
Frank
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I've been missing so far, but will follow the progress of this. Yet another wonder from scratch, thank you for sharing.
Ciao
Giuseppe
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I really like your detailing , excellent work Stephen ! :)
Terri
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Stephen, this build becomes another „Wow!“ moment for me the more and more I see from it. Awesome work all around.
Andreas
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Coming along beautifully Stephen, it's going to be a real eye catcher. Great work on the Beardmore and your weathering with the wash worked out wonderfully, adds a lot of realism to it.
Cheers,
Lance
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Evening All,
Thank you Frank, Giuseppe, Terri, Andreas and Lance for dropping in and leaving your kind comments - they are much appreciated.
I have finished the ribs at last - some have taken three attempts to get right - some have holes, some holes and slots, some triangular slots and no hole, some triangular slots and hole....and the combinations were driving me mad as I would shape a rib and then cut/drill the wrong shapes in the wrong places. The tedium of repeating the same operations over and over and the different combinations of slots and holes meant that my concentration lapsed and so mistakes were made. At least the compression ribs, (the short riblets on the leading edges of the wings between the main ribs), were all the same - all 50 of them! Here are a few:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49896780773_1b50c7ed28_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2j2d3xF)
Some of these look a little rough but they have since been cleaned up enough that any small deficiencies can be concealed beneath a coat of paint!!
While I was fiddling and practising my Anglo-Saxon with the ribs, I took a little time to make some other parts. First off was a new radiator, because the first one I had made was for an FE 2: while the DH 1A had some features in common with the FE, the radiator was not one of them! I made a new one from laminated card and a small piece of Eduard etch kindly given to me by a fellow modeller. The radiator faces were painted black before the grille was CA'd into place and the sides of the radiator added from 10thou card:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49847416782_b5bebd1b47_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iWR3mo)
The FE radiator blank is on the right above - why the DH 1A was smaller I do not know because they had to cool the same engine (120 hp Beardmore).
The DH 1A had a gravity tank under the top wing. It was triangular in shape and I made mine from scrap card. I used small pieces of strip to reinforce the corners and ensure that the sides and front faces were square with the top and bottom surfaces. A small piece of rod blocked the sharp end and allowed me to clean that up with filler:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49896780833_3e5c5513d8_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2j2d3yH)
Another part which needed correcting was the oil tank. Formerly I had made a cylindrical tank - again as per FE but close inspection of the drawings and photos showed that the oil tank on the DH 1A was a different shape. (I had seen this feature before but had thought that it was a protective plate between the tank and exhaust pipe. (How wrong!) This too was fashioned from laminated card. The fuel and new oil tanks look like this:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49897609677_558b82628f_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2j2hhX8)
The oil tank on FE machines was sometimes tinned and sometimes painted black. Photos of the DH1A oil tank are rare, and it is not clear whether the tanks were grey or tinned metal on such photos as I can find. The same applies to the fuel tank. As I am modelling a strip down machine I decided to paint both aluminium:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49897299676_b4c34f6047_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2j2fGNh)
Having finished (well almost), the ribs I thought that I would make a few more parts before I solder the lower wing spars to the nacelle frame, because when that is done i will have a large, fragile and awkward piece to put in a safe place when I am not working on it. Then I will only have to make a few parts to fit as I am assembling the model. So I carved and shaped the struts for wings, cabanes, booms, undercarriage and wing skids from wood. I used wood laminate: I glued some sheets together to get a suitable thickness. All of the parts except the control horns are slightly oversize so that I can cut them to fit exactly during the assembly process. The control horns were made from the same material:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49897611417_e7f294a0b0_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2j2hit8)
They are top left - spreader bar for the undercarriage, bottom left undercarriage legs, (the 4th from left is much too large and will need cutting down), wing and cabane struts, (again the cabanes are too long), wing skids, (the small rough pieces will form the horizontal pieces later), and top right some of the control horns. These will all be clear varnished later before fixing into place.
I also decided to try ideas about making the tail surfaces. The fin was made from 30 x 40 thou strip and liquid cement, but had to be pinned in place during assembly to ensure the leading edge curved properly:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49897299756_0fa93b506e_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2j2fGPE)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49897610692_093f85bcb2_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2j2hifC)
I decided not to make the rudder at the moment as that has to be attached directly to the rudder post. I am planning to make the post from brass rod and solder it to the ends of the booms: any plastic near the soldered joints is not going to survive. I can fit the rudder later (I hope) directly to the model. The tail plane and elevators will also be made later, as the rear ends of the booms have to pass through the tail plane and I have got to give that some serious thought too as I intend to solder the ends of the booms if I can. I may have to resort to CA for the joint - that is a question which can wait for the moment.
Now I cannot delay any longer soldering the lower wing spars to the nacelle frame and creating a large and potentially easily damaged structure.
Thanks for looking.
Stephen.
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That's lovely work Stephen. I enjoy your builds and pick up many good ideas to use in my own modeling. Thanks for sharing this.
Best regards,
Bob
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Lovely woodwork! A lot of struts.
To create such parts from plastic sheed and paint it, would be more effort, and your wooden parts looks great.
Cheers,
Frank
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Stephen, this is just beautiful! You have been a very busy man. These parts all look amazingly precise. I am hugely impressed, what a brilliant thread this is!
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Evening All,
Thanks Bob, Frank and Richie for your very generous comments - I really appreciate them.
I seem to be breaking new ground for me with this build, among which is two posts in as many days!
I have finally bitten the bullet in that I have soldered the lower wing spars to the nacelle frame. This is one of the most tricky parts of the assembly - if this is not completely accurate then the rest of the model will look distorted and unbalanced. In brief the spars have to be laterally dead centre to the nacelle, the centres of the spars have to be perpendicular to the sides of the nacelle, and the spars have to be at 90 degrees to the fore - aft line. Usually with wings there is a tab or interface between the end of the wing and the side of the nacelle which provide surfaces to join the wings to nacelle/fuselage, but in this case the spars are fixed to four points at the bottom and rear of the nacelle: if any of those are mis-aligned it can have unfortunate, not to write disastrous, consequences.
Before I soldered the spars I had to solder a piece of brass rod to the upper nose - this represents the upper part of the frame in front of the observer - a machine gun mount and a folding split windscreen was fixed to this on the real aircraft:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49900224158_0890631b50_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2j2vG9o)
With this in place I proceeded to mount the spars. I put a rib on the ends of the spars to ensure that they were the correct distance apart and they could not move together or apart. I had carefully measured and marked the centres of both spars and these were lined fore-aft up as accurately as possible. The spars were placed on the bottom of the 4 vertical frames at the rear of the nacelle and the height of tips of the spars to the top of my desk measured - these had to be equidistant or the spars would not be properly aligned with the nacelle and one wing would be higher at the tip than the other. Minor adjustments were made until this was right. The the set-up was jigged so that the centres of the spars were in the centre of the nacelle frame, and that the spars could not move sideways or fore-aft while I wielded the soldering iron:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49900224203_d245f8ca0a_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2j2vGaa)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49900740726_cb7344cbec_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2j2ykGJ)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49901049082_3568c1be23_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2j2zVnd)
Having taken several deep breaths I proceed to solder and hoped that nothing moved while I was working. The result:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49901049017_4811152832_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2j2zVm6)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49900224138_05b8754792_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2j2vG93)
I have now got to write the instructions for the next stages of construction because I need to prime and paint the metalwork of the nacelle but do not want to prime the spars until later. This is because the ribs slide along the spars and strip the primer from the metal but I have to attach a rib flush to each side of the nacelle and these and the nacelle frame have to be painted first, and have holes for double lift wires drilled into them. I also need to consider carefully how and what to assemble inside the nacelle before I work on the wing ribs - which incidentally also have to have bracing wires. I intend to use my previous experience with the Gunbus, but some things are very different on this model and have not been fully worked out yet. However I am hoping that the next post will be a bit quicker than the current ones.
Thanks for looking.
Stephen.
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Holy crap Stephen ! You have been busy providing us an up-date (2) :) She is coming on very well and I know all to well what it is like having to re-make parts a few times and the frustration it stirs up .
Terri
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Wow, there's more! Getting it all to line up properly must have been quite a challenge but you look to have managed it very well. This is a very informative thread Stephen, thanks for posting in so much detail.
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Impressive engineering there, Stephen.
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Wow Stephen! Oil and Fuel tank, struts and the ribs look fantastic! Incredible work. The spars look to be very sturdy something I am sure is important!
RAGIII
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loving your craftsmanship Stephen, it's looking great and i look forward to the next installment
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I also decided to try ideas about making the tail surfaces. The fin was made from 30 x 40 thou strip and liquid cement, but had to be pinned in place during assembly to ensure the leading edge curved properly:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49897299756_0fa93b506e_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2j2fGPE)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49897610692_093f85bcb2_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2j2hifC)
Stephen.
I have a tip for you to do this easier next time, if you have a nice peace of scrap glass you can put the profile drawing under the glass of the frame. Then pre shape any curves if they are there and you can cement the styrene on to the glass with extra thin then add all the shapes needed and leave to dry for 24 hours. After that you can use a flat blade slide it underneath and you can pop off the part from the glass having it perfectly straight and clean. I have used this on my build for the Caproni.
Regards Ron
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I also decided to try ideas about making the tail surfaces. The fin was made from 30 x 40 thou strip and liquid cement, but had to be pinned in place during assembly to ensure the leading edge curved properly:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49897299756_0fa93b506e_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2j2fGPE)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49897610692_093f85bcb2_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2j2hifC)
Stephen.
I have a tip for you to do this easier next time, if you have a nice peace of scrap glass you can put the profile drawing under the glass of the frame. Then pre shape any curves if they are there and you can cement the styrene on to the glass with extra thin then add all the shapes needed and leave to dry for 24 hours. After that you can use a flat blade slide it underneath and you can pop off the part from the glass having it perfectly straight and clean. I have used this on my build for the Caproni.
Regards Ron
I'm making a note of that tip for future reference!
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It looks like your method worked perfectly. So Many Great ideas in this section of the Forum!
RAGIII
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Evening All,
Thanks Rick for your kind comment.
I have had the great good fortune to be advised by another modeller (Dennis) on Britmodeller of the existence of drawings by W. Wyman of the DH 1A which have quite a lot of information about the cockpit details, (and from which the drawings in the DataFile were almost certainly copied). This means that I am now able to reconstruct something closer to reality in the nacelle. This has meant that I have had to make several alterations to the nacelle frame and other changes. At least I have this information at a time when I can use it constructively without having to conduct major surgery or start afresh.
The first change was to remove the vertical bar in the rear nacelle bay and replace it with a bar from plastic strip further to the rear. Before:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49938922238_c36c149fd4_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2j5W2JE)
after:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49939737372_bbc456ba3b_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2j61d3G)
The bottom frames were also added from plastic strip, followed by the lower curved section in the front of the observer's cockpit. The vertical bar in the nose was soldered to the two half-rings:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49938918963_e6665ba766_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2j5W1Lc)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49939434521_ab1c21b28c_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2j5YE28)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49939434506_44cdbf1cc0_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2j5YE1S)
The metalwork was primed, and bulkheads fixed to the rear of the pilot's cockpit and between the pilot and observer cockpits. The remaining cross members of the nacelle frame completed this structure including two engine bearers in the rear. The frame was painted with acrylics and the bulkheads with oils - the latter were coated with Revell clear orange varnish when the oil paints were dry:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49939721872_2733b0d70e_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2j618rs)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49939422431_862a6b7e0d_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2j5YAqF)
At last I should be able to start adding the internal details to the cockpits.
Thanks for looking.
Stephen.
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Nice work on the framing Stephen ! Looking forward to those details :)
Terri
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This is going to be a beauty! Great craftsmanship Stephen!
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Yes, nice work, Stephen. You're pretty handy with a soldering iron.
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Seriously inspiring Stephen, once my 3 projects are finished I'm putting the kits aside for a while. I hope you don't mind if I ask what might be lots of really silly questions.
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The changes look terrific and your overall clean and precise work is amazing!
RAGIII
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Thanks Terri, Rookie, Ken, Richie and Rick for the encouraging comments.
Richie do not hesitate to fire away with questions - I am certain that they will not be silly at all. I will do my very best to answer them.
Stephen.
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precise work is amazing!
Yes! Everything so precisely angled!
Stephen, look, they're gonna take that away and use it as a pattern for 90° angles in the "International Bureau of Weights and Measures" in Paris. Take care!
Cheers,
Frank
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Evening All,
Thanks for the warning Frank: I will keep this model under lock and key in future!
I have rewritten the instructions several times as I try to work out the best way of going forwards with this one. Originally I had intended to add the interior details of the nacelle and then proceed with the ribs on the lower wing, but then I realised that the pilot's seat, the engine and radiator would stand very proud of the top of the nacelle and would in all certainty be knocked off when I try to put the wing ribs into place. So a rethink or two later I decided it was safe to put in the observer's seat and rudder bar, after the seats and rudder bar assembly had been completed. The seats were mounted on plywood sheets resting on the nacelle frame, so they were represented by thin plastic card:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49964343143_b14b71e022_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2j8bju8)
I am still not sure that I am happy with the seat belts - I may replace them later. The observer's seat and the rudder bar were fixed in place:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49964342938_e069ecb5b3_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2j8bjqA)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49965128657_90a2d2c8db_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2j8fkZt)
The wires in the second photo are from the ribs nearest the nacelle: these have been painted and rigging and bracing wires inserted because it will not be possible to reach here later on in the build when I want to start rigging. I also inserted the next three ribs between the nacelle and the boom attachment point on both sides of the nacelle. The booms are from brass rod and were soldered to the rear boom: the ribs against the nacelle were far enough from the soldering iron and hot metal that they did not melt. I did not photograph the jig for soldering on this occasion but it is simple enough to describe. I set the nacelle sub-assembly on a block of balsa wood and placed the brass rod booms over a copy of the plan. The height of the rear end of the boom relative to the spar is calculated from the side elevation drawing as follows:
a. draw a horizontal line from the rear of the rib to beneath the rudder post;
b. measure the vertical distance from the bottom of the rudder post to the line. This distance is the height that the rear end of the boom needs to be above the rear end of the spar on the model.
Now a block of wood or other support can be set at the correct height relative to the nacelle sub-assembly and spar and the ends of the booms placed on it.
With the booms soldered and the joint cleaned the inner ribs could be slid into place and set with CA:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49964846491_21c4f483a3_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2j8dU7x)
To get the ribs accurately into place on the opposite side I had to pin the structure to the balsa block and pull the ribs over the plans:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49964846411_c79a0de020_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2j8dU6a)
The ribs outboard of the booms could now be put on with some of the flying wires attached via holes in the ribs, as I do not wish to use turnbuckles. Personally I think that the items available on the aftermarket are too large to be realistic, and in addition trying to fix them on parts of this model, (the brass bar nacelle frame and brass rod booms), is not possible. However it does mean that I have a tangle of threads on both wings which I am sure are going to be a real pain during the build until I fix the top wing and can put them into place:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49964342963_38141c94da_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2j8bjr2)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49965128517_701b95b5d5_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2j8fkX4)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49965128572_b72b563eaa_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2j8fkY1)
Two small ribs are missing from the wing tips - these are being left off at the moment as I have decided that the brass bar alone is too thin to represent the spars accurately so I intend to add strips of 30 thou plastic to the top and bottom. If I put the last two spars into place now I know for a fact that I will have to put them on again after I have knocked them off!
Thanks for looking.
Stephen.
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Stephen,
I really enjoy following this type of build. I learn new techniques and this helps me to become a better
modeler. Thanks for showing your progress.
Kevin
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Wow, Stephen this is a bit of a masterclass in scratchbuilding! A lot of very meticulous planning must have gone into it. Do you plant the entire build from start to finish?
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I never cease to appreciate your skill at scratch building! The ribs , seats, and booms are just another example!
RAGIII
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Wow! Stellar modeling on this one Stephen, but such is routinely the case with your very interesting projects. Very nicely done!
Best regards,
Bob
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Stephen,
It was not that long ago that I recall your expressions of being "daunted by soldering", now you are regularly turning out superb results like this very impressive frame! This is top notch modelling and the accuracy and quality of your products are inspiring to say the very least. I am enjoying following your progress here and look forward to more!
Cheers,
Lance
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Hey Stephen , see you have been busy making ribs and also glad they aren't covered in sauce ;) Excellent work on the cockpit framing and starting with the details . I like the seatbelts , I would leave them .
Terri
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This is shaping up nicely, Stephen. Looking good!
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How did I miss this thread... mindblowing, Stephen. I am speechless but will remain so and admire, to the very end.
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so enjoyable reading your updates, i always feel like grabbing a cuppa and settling in for an interesting read. Great work and i have much admiration for what you're doing and the way you're going about it
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My sincere thanks to all of you who have dropped by and left such generous comments - they are much appreciated.
Richie: I do not plan everything in my builds - when I write that I have just 'rewritten the instructions" I really do mean that. I do think ahead and keep notes, and have a general idea of the sequence that I intend to follow, but I can and do frequently change my mind as I try to forestall problems.
Stephen.
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Evening All,
The funny thing about scratch building is that it often takes a long time to make things and progress seems to be going nowhere, then suddenly a lot of things come together and a model really begins to take shape. This is certainly true in this case as I started this months ago and for a long time had nothing on my desk that even remotely suggested that I was making a large model. Now in a few days I can see what has hitherto just been in my imagination beginning to become real.
I checked again the width of the seat belts and found that although they look wide, they conform to the size of contemporary lap belts as used by the RFC so I am not going to replace them after all.
Fixing the ribs of the lower wing to the spar has set things in motion: I have now finished the construction of the lower wing except for the ailerons which I will make later. The compression ribs on the leading edge were CA'd into place - some minor adjustments had to be made to some of the ribs to bring them to the same thickness as the main ribs, but generally they fitted well. I decided that the brass rod was too thin to represent the spars on the real aircraft so I have CA'd strips of 30 thou plastic to the top and bottom of the bars to make them equal thickness to the ribs as on most contemporary aircraft:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49984166912_b2068720e9_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2j9VVpf)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49983906116_2c05086a66_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2j9UzSL)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49983906141_8e81fe1e7d_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2j9UzTc)
The two small wingtip ribs were added at this stage as they were now less likely to be knocked off by handling. Next was the leading and trailing edge frames to the wings - from 20 x 30 thou Evergreen strip. Two small braces on the ribs closest to the nacelle and central strips on the upper and lower edges of the ribs completed the wing structure for now:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49983352618_e7773e4995_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2j9RKkG)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49983872441_c85c4d249f_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2j9UpSa)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49983872421_026519caef_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2j9UpRP)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49983352598_dd6bb7a800_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2j9RKkm)
I will paint the wings next while I decide whether to make the top wing or add the nacelle details to the existing structure. Either way I am eventually going to have to set a large fragile structure to one side while I work on the other so that no damage is done.
Thanks for looking.
Stephen.
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It's looking very good, Stephen, like an RC plane!
I assume the wings are permanently attached to the nacelles. Anticipating any trouble painting the wings?
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That is looking Amazing! I really am impressed by your abilities!
RAGIII
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Really superb Stephen, a very complex build moving along very smoothly! Seriously impressive stuff!
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Magnificent, just magnificent!
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That looks just amazing Stephen! Outstanding modeling all around. ;D Nicely done.
Best,
Bob
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Hi Stephen,
Personally I think that the items available on the aftermarket are too large to be realistic
not critics, just a info: have you thought about Gaspatch turnbuckles "One End" in 1/48 ?
https://cdn11.bigcommerce.com/s-z0fnvjg/images/stencil/1024x1024/products/39/142/TB_series__23368.1362233314.jpg
They are very small, and I used them on my D.H.2 inside the wings. I think they are not to big, compared to my pictures of a original wing inside.
Mounting is easy: just in a drill hole.
https://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=8552.0
Cheers,
Frank
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I'm not worthy, I'm not worthy, I'm not worthy...... :-[
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Evening All,
Thanks Ken, Rick, Richie, Frank, Bob and Rookie for your very kind comments - i really appreciate them.
Ken: the only problem that I antiicipated with the painting was getting a consistent mixture for the colour. As described below I mixed my own, and as I tend to use bucket methods (rather like the original recipie for PC10 and PC12 and probably most other colours used on aircraft at the time), it is not always easy to get an exact match with different mixes. Fortunately I managed to mix enough first time to get a fairly even coverage, and when I mixed a second batch for touch -ups etc I came very close, so I am reasonably happy. It was a fiddly task it is true, but not especially difficult.
Frank: I have though long and hard about the anchor points for the rigging and had already bought some of the single end pieces in 1/48 scale that you suggest. However I am not sure that I would be able to fit these as even with my eye loupe I can barely see them and I have already lost a couple on my tray and desk (they did not even get near the carpet monster!). I found that inserting the thread through the holes was very difficult as the holes were not always completely open and the tread was almost the same diameter as the holes. I am also concerned that drilling tiny holes in brass is not going to be practical (I have tried test pieces), so for this model at least I have given up on the idea. However I have not given up entirely as at some point in the future I intend to try my hand at a tractor aircraft not kitted in 1/32 scale and I may use different materials for the structure which will hopefully allow me to drill and insert anchors for the rigging.
Stephen.
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Evening All,
Continuing the theme that scratch building seems to reflect the course of evolution - long periods when very little happens punctuated by periods of very rapid change - I have now completed the painting and internal rigging of the lower wings. This is an important stage because I can now add many of the internal details of the nacelle and install the engine, radiator and fuel tank before proceeding more slowly once again with the top wing and tailplane.
Here is the painted structure - a mix of Revell Oker (88), fiery red (330) and Humbrol insignia yellow (154).
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49987331491_f37a14409c_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jad97X)
When the paint was dry I rigged the internal bracing of the wings using some of the pre-placed threads which had been a nuisance beforehand - now at least there are 4 threads less than before!
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49987331446_41022b3b9f_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jad97b)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49987331421_0cf4850c92_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jad96K)
I am planning to put on a coat of clear orange later to even the tones of the wood and give a slight sheen, but first I want to complete the details described above.
Thanks for looking.
Stephen.
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That's beautiful work Stephen, very impressive! Are you going to hand paint the clear orange? I use Tamiya which is a pig to handpaint, but those internal rigging wires will not me missable with an airbrush...
Ian
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amazing work as usual LM, this is coming together very nicely and looking superb
That's beautiful work Stephen, very impressive! Are you going to hand paint the clear orange? I use Tamiya which is a pig to handpaint, but those internal rigging wires will not me missable with an airbrush...
Ian
I use a drop or two of water to thin my tamiya acrylics, they brush on much better and it helps stop the second coat from attacking/lifting the previous coat.
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Stephen,
It looks spectacular at this stage, this is going to be a true piece of art when completed. Great work thus far and a true pleasure to follow along!
Cheers,
Lance
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The structure is truly magnificent, you're doing very well.
Ciao
Giuseppe
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Something magnificent is evolving here Stephen! Very, very special!
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Wonderful, on the one hand „as usual“ , on the other hand you are betting even better and better. Fantastic job, Stephen!
Andreas
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Simply Incredible wood work on the wings! Beautiful to say the least!
RAGIII
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Stephen , most impressive job on the wings ! Should look even better once the clear coats are on . Looking forward to the next up-date !
Terri
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Evening All,
Thanks Ian, EBF, Lance, Giuseppe, Richie, Andreas, Rick and Terri for you kind comments - they are much appreciated.
Ian: I do not use a spray gun so I will paint on the clear orange with a hairy stick - in that way I do not have to worry too much about the rigging wires provided that I am careful
EBF: I dilute my acrylics with water until the mixture has the consistency of milk. It does mean That I sometimes have to use many coats of paint, but the finish is very much better than putting on fewer thick coats which tend to leave brush marks. I also find that if I wish to use undershading I can get a similar effect to using a spray gun when I use a number of thin coats.
Stephen.
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Evening all,
After a great deal of umming and ahhing I decided that I would complete the current sub-assembly (nacelle and lower wing), before I make the upper wing and tail plane. Then I had to decide whether to add the pilot's cockpit interior details or the engine and radiator: either way I may run into problems with bits sticking out and getting broken off or alternatively being in the way.... Eventually I decided to add the engine and radiator first, so I completed the oil tank by adding the support brackets and the exhaust and painted them all. The engine was glued to the mounts which will later rest on the nacelle frame:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50012350217_888f5e42b5_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jcqnji)
The oil tank was attached to the side of the engine and a pipe to the oil pump made from copper wire. The exhaust has been added for the photo - I will not glue it into place until I have attached the water pipe to the top of the engine:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50012091071_34ee4f7c50_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jcp3hg)
The fuel tank was placed in the nacelle under the engine bay and two straps added from 10 x 20 thou Evergreen strip - I am not sure whether these were used but they had straps on the FB 5 so I am guessing they had them here too:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50012350182_70c9fd82ea_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jcqniG)
The radiator was fixed to the nacelle frame behind the pilot's cockpit - I assume that it was held on brackets and probably braced with wires on each side but there are no photographs so I am making this up as I go along:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50011559308_df9d0c0e2e_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jcmjcW)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50012350122_6c944d8b1f_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jcqnhE)
The water pipe was fixed to the top of the engine and the engine sub-assembly glued to the nacelle frame so that the water pipe fitted into a hole drilled in the top rear of the radiator:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50012350077_94b60958bc_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jcqngT)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50012091091_a37ece973a_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jcp3hB)
I have still to add the carburettor system to the left side of the engine and then there are various wires, pipes and a control horn on the magnetos which are not included in the kit. I will add the exhaust pipe to the engine after I have put in the seat and other details in the pilot's cockpit. More on those details later.
Finally for the moment I have made some of the fuel pipework and taps which were fixed to the bulkhead in front of the pilot. These are from copper wire and plastic and are ready to be bent to shape:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50011559208_731da6b454_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jcmjbd)
If you have been, thanks for looking.
Stephen
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The engine , exhaust, piping, radiator etc. all look Superb! even better as they are installed in their proper location!!
RAGIII
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Great looking progress, Stephen. Details add so much to the visual appearance.
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More beautiful work Stephen, that WNW engine has been wonderfully well finished.
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Holy Hand Grenades, Stephen...this is magnificent. Yet another build I've missed. I am way too siloed.
Super, super cool.
In awe...Dan :o
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Okay, I really do love this scratchbuild...!!
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Great stuff, Sir.
And by the way, you are flat insane, you know....
Amazing project!
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Evening All,
My belated thanks to Rick, Ken, Richie, Dan UFAG and Old Man for your ever-generous comments. In the past month I have spent much time traveling and visiting family members, so I have not had too much time either for commenting or for modelling. However I have made some progress since the last post as follows.
I have added some more details to the pilot's cockpit in the form of the seat and bench, control column (from rod with thin wire for the grip), and elevator bar, hand pump and pipework for the fuel, and pulleys for the control cables to the ailerons and rudder. The photos are not particularly good as these parts are partially hidden and difficult to see even on the model itself:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50111358671_7be8fcd952_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jmaP5B)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50111358566_a8ce27d96e_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jmaP3N)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50110787053_05dbba78fa_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jm7Ta8)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50110787083_014acd8f32_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jm7TaD)
There is still some touching in to do but that can wait until I have finished scraping paint to fix some other parts on to the nacelle structure.
I have also been working on construction of the top wing. It has the same composition as the lower wing: brass bar for the spars and plastic strip for the ribs. The ribs between the boom attachment points to the rear spar were put in a group in the middle of the wing and a single rib near the tips of the wing. This ensured that the spars would be correctly spaced and that the centre ribs would not be affected by heat when I soldered the booms to the rear spar. When threading the ribs care had to be taken to ensure that they were in the correct order as they are not all the same. The booms are 1/16 inch brass rod: these had the front tailplane spar, made from 30 x 80 thou Evergreen strip, inserted at the rear end. Because there is no incidence on the booms relative to the spars (ie the rear of the boom is at the same level as the spars), it was easy to make a simple jig to allow me to solder the booms into place. The spars and booms were placed over a plan of the upper surfaces of the aircraft and held with pins before the nacelle and lower wing was held over the jigged upper wing to make sure that the two sub-assemblies match as closely as possible. When I was satisfied with the alignments I soldered the booms. An after solder check showed that the minor mis-alignments between the upper and lower wings and booms can be easily corrected at the final assembly stage.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50110786978_4c32404e89_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jm7T8Q)
The ribs between the booms were aligned with the ribs in the lower wing but the ribs which will hold the cabane struts had to be aligned with the nacelle frame: all were CA'd into place:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50111358501_53e06fa3e4_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jmaP2F)
The ribs outboard of the booms were CA'd: each one had to be measured against its counterpart in the lower wing to make sure that all are properly in line:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50111593477_6e694636cc_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jmc1SZ)
Now I have to add the plastic strips above and below the brass spars between the ribs to increase the thickness of the former prior to adding the compression ribs. Other details will also be added before I paint the wood parts of the wing. I have also got to think about and decide how I am going to construct the tailplane as that too will only consist of ribs and spars, but has to be strong enough to hold the elevators.
Thanks for looking.
Stephen.
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Nice to see some progress, Stephen. This is really taking shape.
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Such fantastic and precise work is a testament to your skill! The nacelle , interior, and lower wing structure are amazing! The upper wing is sure to be in the same category!
RAGIII
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superb Stephen, it's great to see an update on this amazing project. Now I have finally dipped my toe in the scratch building water i can fully appreciate the amazing skill, knowledge and patience you have shown with this. Incredible precision!
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Fabulous job on the details Stephen 8)
Terri
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Rather you than me. That looks like extremely tedious work, albeit carried out perfectly!
Ian
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Evening All,
Thanks Ken, Rick, Richie, Terri and Ian for dropping by and leaving such supportive comments - they are much appreciated.
Once again I have been absent from home and as usual it takes a few days for me to get back into things - hence the delay in reporting. However recently I have been able to make some more progress, much of which has been repeat what I did for the lower wing.
I have continued slowly with the construction of the top wing. Having put the ribs into place I had to thicken the spars with Evergreen strip. The strip was CA'd into place as per the lower wing, leaving gaps on the underside where I will have to pass the rigging through the ribs later. When the rigging is complete the remaining gaps can be filled and painted.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50158701866_b5418c1ae3_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jqmsyA)
The contrast between spars which have been thickened and those which have not can be seen in this picture of the upper and lower wings:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50158939242_6eaaf637fe_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jqnF8h)
When the spars were finished the compression ribs could be inserted on the wing leading edge:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50158701721_d3f47ea1cf_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jqmsw6)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50158150048_90318d3f01_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jqiCwu)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50158939432_7bfb93b4ab_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jqnFby)
The rear of the booms were soldered to make a strong joint: later this will hold the rudder post and form an important part of the overall structure of the model so strength matters here:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50158701671_e6964bb220_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jqmsve)
The front spar of the tailplane has been CA'd too - this adds strength to the rear of the model. Later when the Evergreen strip that I have ordered arrives, I can build the framework of the tailplane on to this spar.
Meanwhile I have constructed the remainder of the framework for the top wing, including the leading and trailing edge strips, and the longerons across the span:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50158701646_d9373b0f38_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jqmsuN)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50158701566_99abf87acf_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jqmstq)
The metal parts of the top wing and the booms have been primed with Halfords rattle can primer: while this dries I am going to finish some details on the nacelle and engine and start to make the ailerons for the wings.
Thanks for looking.
Stephen.
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Mind bogglingly brilliant Stephen. How did you get such a perfect right angle when adding the compression ribs? This is something I struggle with.
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Incredible work Stephen! The wing structures and booms are amazing!
RAGIII
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Excellent work on the ribs and spar Stephen . Booms are moving forward and good idea on solder for that . A nice strong join is going to be need . Looking forward on the next up-date :)
Terri
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Evening All,
Many thanks Richie, Rick and Terri for dropping by and leaving your comments - I really appreciate your encouragement.
I had hoped that making the tail and control surfaces would be relatively straightforward and quick. Well I was right about the former but wrong with the latter. Hot weather and a loss of mojo have contributed to the long time taken to complete these parts. However they are now done and ready for paint before being fixed into place.
The ailerons were made using 40 x 60 thou Evergreen strip for the leading edge: the ribs were the rear parts of the ribs from the wings. These were glued at the correct intervals using the wings as templates to ensure correct alignment. The small spars were cut from 30 thou card scrap. The trailing edges are 10 x 20 thou Evergreen strip, bent in the usual way by pulling it through the end of an old pair of tweezers until the curve is nearly right, and then glueing into place and making the last bend fit the plans:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50206555803_3b3d21b359_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2juzHSt)
Test fitting of the ailerons to the wings showed that they fit properly:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50207359182_20e84709ab_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2juDQFQ)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50207359212_83134f2c00_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2juDQGm)
The tailplane presented a slightly different problem because for a start half of the spar which I had originally threaded to the boom broke off and had to be re-attached with superglue. The leading edge ribs were made first and glued into place - the unit was laid over the plan to get the correct positions. The trailing edge of the tailplane is two pieces of 30 x 40 Evergreen strip, one on each side of the rudder post. I attached the inner ribs first as these had to have a slot cut into them to allow the boom to pass through. The end of this rib was glued to the rear spar of the tailplane and this was followed by the outermost rib so that the rear spar was held properly. The remaining ribs could then be glued in place. The ribs were cut from 40 x 60 Evergreen strip and filed to size. When all of the ribs were in place the leading edge was glued in place (10 x 20 thou Evergreen strip again).
Finally the elevators were made following the method described above:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50207081671_89f017a8bb_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2juCqca)
The photo shows how I first bent the strip which will make the trailing edge of the elevator: by gluing the ends of the ribs to the strip first and waiting for them to dry, I was able to easily bend the ends of the strip to fit to the ends of the hinge. A simple check to make sure that the elevators fit to the tailplane:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50207081606_6970c03516_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2juCqb3)
The rudder will be made later when I have worked out whether to make it before fixing to the boom structure or afterwards when the rudder post is fixed to the booms. The new control surfaces::
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50207081521_af68ccd7eb_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2juCq9z)
While all of this was going on I have also been adding some small details to the engine and nacelle assembly. The radiator had two supports from 30 thou rod added - one to each side. I also added the small bracket and wires for the magnetos on the rear of the port side. Some small pipes which run from the carburretors down to somewhere in the lower regions of the engine compartment were put in place using copper wire. I have still to add two longerons to the fuselage sides but I am leaving these until later because I need to handle the nacelle when I fix the top wing and I do not fancy replacing parts later.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50207174288_b0091aede1_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2juCTJ1)
The right hand pipe had moved from the carburretor when I took the photo....that has now been put into the correct position! On the starboard side the home-made exhaust has been put in place:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50207174238_972096c91a_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2juCTH9)
Now on to painting the top wing, tailplane and control surfaces, and booms. I will also start to make up the undercarriage legs and axle and varnish the struts and add the manufacturers transfers to them so that I can start to seriously think about how to put the top wing into place.
Thanks for looking.
Stephen.
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Now that is an excellent up-date , you are moving right long Stephen . Really nice job on the rest of the flying surfaces . What did you use for making the struts ?
Terri
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Brilliant work Stephen, this is a very absorbing read! Despite this heat wave you've still managed to make excellent progress.
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I usually wait until a model is completed before commenting, but I just have to interject here my stupefaction at the quality of your work, Stephen.
Wonderful stuff.
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That's a lot of work showing, Stephen. Excellent update! Fantastic engine detailing.
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Outstanding progress on all! The work you do is amazing. The tail surfaces look great and the engine and details are brilliant!
RAGIII
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You have gone through the portal, Sir....
This is just beyond.
A worthy successor to our lamented founder.
I salute you!
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Outstanding progress on all! The work you do is amazing. The tail surfaces look great and the engine and details are brilliant!
I have to agree completely!
Cheers,
Frank
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This is really above and beyond...
Such perseverance, persistence, patience and craftsmanship.
There is a ton to be learned here!
Willem
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Evening All,
Thank you very much indeed Terri, Richie, Macsporran, Ken, Rick, Old Man and Willem. Your very generous comments have come at an opportune moment for me as I am approaching the moment of truth when I have to mount the top wing, and although I have form building pushers, including the Gunbus in 1/32 scale, this one might offer challenges which I do not anticipate!
Terri: I am using cherry for the struts and undercarriage. I am glueing two pieces of veneer together to achieve the correct thickness: when that is dry I cut strips and file and sand them to shape. I will coat them with clear varnish and I have had some transfers printed by Mke Jernfors at Arctic Decals which I will put onto the struts before I use them on the wings and booms. Pictures will be posted in due course.
I have painted the top wing structure and the ailerons, elevators and fin:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50244440303_a344cec1a3_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jxVTBv)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50245077386_92330a38e3_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jxZ9ZG)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50245284802_ac308935d3_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jy1dDQ)
I have also added the internal rigging to the top wing:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50245077326_b153fcdfca_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jxZ9YE)
I can delay the moment of truth a little longer because I still have to attach the fuel tank to the top wing, prime the lower booms and paint both lower and upper booms grey, make some more struts, (some which I had made previously are too short!) and varnish the struts and add the maker's markings. By then I will run out of things to do and I will have to get on with jigs and the wing attachment.........wish me luck!
Thanks for looking.
Stephen.
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This is so nice!
.........wish me luck!
I wish you all the luck you need!
Cheers,
Frank
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Now I really want to see the top wing mounted ! Good luck Stephen ...awaiting next update :)
Terri
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You don't need luck. Just do what you do!
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simply an awesome build, nothing but respect for what you are doing 8)
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Wonderful work, Sir.
Always best to put a tricky bit off till the moment seems just right, in my experience....
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That is absolutely gorgeous!
RAGIII
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Fantastic show of skills! There is something appealing in scratch building, but then again I should remember that I prefer the painting and finishing stages to the actual building. :)
Lots of good luck sent for the wing work!
/Fredrik
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Evening All,
Thank you Frank, Terri, Ken, EBF, Old Man, Rick and Fredrick for dropping by and leaving your comments. I always appreciate others showing an interest in my builds. I just hope that I am able to offer as many helpful hints and tips as I am able to gain from reading the other threads on this site.
Gary you may be interested in this post as I show how I use card jigs to support the upper wing while I put struts into place. This method is very much easier than trying to put all of the struts on to one wing and then bringing the sub-assemblies together, as I hope my results show.
At last my monoplane has grown up: it is now a biplane! Here's how.
First I had to make more struts as some which i had made previously were too short! These were carved from two sheets of pear laminate glued together and then varnished and the supports painted on the ends:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50288803068_61b4a2d83c_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jBRg7L)
The black dots are transfers from Arctic Decals which represent the makers mark (Aeroplane Manufacturing Company): they are so small that I could just as easily painted black dots!
Next I had to drill holes in the ribs again to take the rigging as I intend to thread the wires under the strut ends. (I had already drilled the holes in the ribs before I glued them to the spars, but somehow most of them had become blocked. I did not want to have to drill them again when the top wing is in place as it is difficult enough drilling the holes in the ribs when they are attached to the spar and there is space around them). I am not using turnbuckles for two reasons, namely I cannot fix them to parts of the frame as it is made from brass into which I cannot drill small enough holes. The second reason is that I consider them to be too large in 1/32 scale and they are just too small for me to thread if they are 1/48 scale!
Lastly I made the rudder: I had wondered whether to wait until I had mounted the top wing but I decided that I needed the rudder post to help hold the top wing in place when I add the struts: more on that later. Construction of the rudder frame was straightforward: the post is brass rod and the ribs are 40 thou card for the larger rib and 15 thou for the rest. Those which were attached directly to the rudder post had holes drilled:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50289626907_c8c2c082da_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jBVu1T)
The ribs were CA'd to the post and the spar sections cemeted in place (these were pieces of 15thou strip), while the edge was made from 10 x 20 thou strip which had been run through a pair of tweezers much as clothes makers run ribbon across scissor blades to make the ribbon curl. When the curvature was nearly correct I secured the top end to the top of a rib and allowed it to harden.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50289626442_b3db39fb7e_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jBVtSS)
Then I could bend the strip around and secure it to the rear ends of the ribs and spar with liquid cement and finally rudder post with CA. A small strip was added to the front to represent the balance:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50288803088_9741369bf7_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jBRg87)
The rudder assembly was painted to complete it:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50288803063_c793546c95_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jBRg7F)
I made a jig from my usual expensive and sophisticated materials ie, pieces of card and a block of wood with nails. I try to demonstrate in my builds that scratch building does not have to involve expensive or complex jigs or tools, although if you have the money and skill to own and use these they undoubtedly can be advantageous. I use simple tools and materials which are available to hand and cheap and simple to use: high levels of skill are not required - just a little imagination and patience. I hammered some nails into a block of wood to hold the model steady when I made my 1/32 Vickers Gunbus: I used the same block again. The nails are spaced so that they lock on opposite sides of the wing spars and fit into corners where the ribs are attached to the spars. This holds the lower wing and nacelle sufficiently rigid to stop it moving around when working on the sub-assembly. but means that the unit can be put on or taken off easily:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50291028426_f3ae2f5e2b_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jC3ED1)
The image shows how the nails hold the wing in place - there are two pairs of nails - one for each lower wing. With the lower wing rigid the upper wing needs to be held while the struts are inserted. To keep the correct height, and to support the booms at the rear and keep them correctly spaced too, I cut three supports from thick card. Two sit on the lower wing and have a tab so that they can rest on the top surface of the wing and be held stable with a tab. The lower part has short feet which rest on the wood block, and the top has a cut-out which fits on the leading and trailing edges of the upper wing spar. The boom jig (centre) has a cut-out which is wide enough to sit over the lower booms and support the upper boom just in front of the tail plane:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50289476696_739e50f5fe_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jBUHn3)
The narrow shallow cut-outs in the wing jigs are there to sit over the thin strips which runs along the centre of the wing surfaces. When the jigs are in place and the top wing lowered onto them the structure is rigid enough to work on. Look no struts!
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50289627097_4d3b8d3d98_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jBVu5a)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50289476836_f781834162_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jBUHps)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50289627067_b570c9ba2c_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jBVu4D)
Just card and nails....
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50289627012_4df00a4333_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jBVu3G)
With the top wing firmly held I could fix the rudder in place. This held the rear of the assembly steady and formed one leg of what would become a triangle. (The boom strut was only put in place and not fixed when this image was taken):
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50289476581_1241e18ebb_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jBUHk4)
Unfortunately it also showed me that I had cut the lower booms too short - the rudder post should be vertical and it was not!However I left it in place until I had put in all of the wing and boom struts and had a rigid structure. I inserted one front outer strut and one rear inner strut to each side:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50288803423_705f908eb6_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jBRgdT)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50288803398_ccc8600bd0_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jBRgds)
I now had a sufficiently strong link between the top and bottom wings that the card jigs could be removed as the above images show. Each strut was cut/filed to exactly fit the gap in which it was to be attached and held with a small drop of CA. (The gaps along the spars on either side of the struts are there because that is where the rigging holes in the ribs are - later when I have the rigging in place I will fill the gaps with pieces of card as per the remainder of the spars). With the card wing supports removed, fitting the remaining wing struts one at a time was easy:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50289626712_cd6058084e_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jBVtXw)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50288803348_2bf1804e0c_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jBRgcA)
followed by the cabane and boom struts:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50288802963_45e7478e69_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jBRg5X)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50288803293_0806fb339c_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jBRgbD)
The rear card jig and rudder was removed from the rear when all of the struts were in place - the structure is completely rigid and can be handled with care just like any other biplane model. All of the struts are square and vertical from the front and side, which makes pushers easy to assemble using this method:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50289476326_c43fbd84c9_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jBUHfE)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50288802983_7a828d63af_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jBRg6i)
The lower boom ends have been extended by taking a small triangle of 60 thou card and filing a V into the base side. The corners were rounded with a file and the piece CA'd to the ends of the booms. The fin also had to be adjusted to allow for the new angle of the rudder post. Finally the lower spreader strut could be CA'd between the lower booms and the sub-assembly is complete and ready to rig:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50291810442_040d502a19_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jC7F73)
I will be pleased to be able to get rid of those dangly threads and the rigging of the wings will further strengthen the structure. The wings will be held on the wood block while I am inserting the threads through the holes in the ribs and the plastic fillers are added to the spars.
The undercarriage legs, axle spreader bar and wing skid are being carved from laminated pear and will be fitted after I have rigged the cabanes and wings, all of which I expect to take some time so the next update will not appear for a little while.
Thanks for looking.
Stephen.
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superb workmanship and thanks for sharing your tips for joining the upper and lower wings, your DH is looking fantastic and i can't wait to see it rigged 8)
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Beautiful work and a very nice and informative posting as well. Thanks for showing in such detail what you do and how you do it!
/Fredrik
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What!? No complicated system of leevers?
A good example of how to use cheap, simple materials to accomplish a complicated task. My hat's off to you Stephen!
This project is extraordinary.
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Really good work on the jig. Jigging a framework is a whole different story from jigging a model with solid wings.
sp
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Incredible results ! Your use of simple things to achieve Brilliant results never ceases to impress!
RAGIII
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Great work, Sir!
That's the stuff to give the Hun!"
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Dear Stephen, I have had a bit of a sabbatical for a month and missed out on so much amazing work! This is truly world class modelling, I have missed the wonderful WW1 modelling community, especially your very good self. I hope to become fully active again very soon. With my imminent return to work I shall certainly need the distraction!
Best wishes
Richie
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That seems to be really a big bird now :o
But it looks like the master has full control over the biplane and not the biplane over the master 8)
Cheers,
Frank
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Evening All,
My sincere thanks to EBF, Fredrik, Ken, Steve, Rick, OM, Richie and Frank for your very generous and supportive comments which I really appreciate. Frank, the biplane very nearly took control of the master since the last post as I will explain below....
I started to rig the wings which was a pleasure at it was getting rid of a lot of dangly threads which at times were a nuisance. As already explained I had drilled holes in the ribs under the struts so that I could pass the threads through them and hold them in place with CA. (I do not like turnbuckles as I think that they are too large even in this scale). I had rigged the inner bay on one side and was three quarters of the way to completing the outer bay when I managed to knock the tail unit with my hand....and all of the struts collapsed. I was left struggling to keep a single cabane in almost its correct position while I carefully set the fallen and now loose struts in order around the model. I do not mind admitting that for a few moments I thought that I was going to have to abandon this model. However after I had regained my composure I decided that a recovery operation would at least be worth a try so I set about replacing the struts one by one using the card jigs to hold the wings apart while I did so. An hour later and things were back to where they had been - and I stopped working on the model for a couple of days, which caused some of the delay. Having completed rigging the wings I put in the remaining pieces on the spars: these hold the ends of the rigging wires and block the holes in the ribs.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50368208683_8594e2ca48_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jJSeD6)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50368916046_74cab6068f_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jJVRV1)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50368210448_30047843e6_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jJSfaw)
The plastic fillers were painted with the wood mixture that I concocted for this model. Next up was the propellor boss. I had ordered a resin boss but when it arrived it was too small. I am working from the DataFile drawings and I assume that they are correct and the resin boss is too small for this particular aircraft - certainly from the point of view of quality I have no problems with the resin boss and back plate. However I had to make my own from 20 thou card. I cut the discs by using a pair of dividers to score them out, drilled the holes and added the central bolt and smaller retaining bolts from plastic rod:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50369019972_75702cc892_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jJWoNQ)
This is a bespoke fitting on the propellor - shown here as a dry fit prior to fixing permanently to the model.
The next delay resulted from trying to make the undercarriage legs and wing skids from wood. For the first attempt I laminated two sheets of pear and cut the legs of the undercarriage along the grain and tried to join them at the bottom. This was not going to work - the joint face was too small and I could see the whole lot collapsing just as I was about to finish the model. On the second attempt I cut out two sets of legs as V's ready to shape, and indeed did shape them and varnished them. All was going really well - actually too well because the legs started to warp! B......r. By now I was getting more than a little fed up so I turned to the wing skids. My original plan was to make them in three parts - two sloping legs and a cross piece along the bottom. I looked at the tiny pieces of wood and decided to save time and revert to plastic instead. So I laminated some plastic card to get sufficient thickness to be able to take the weight of the model and shaped two undercarriage legs and two wing skids. The spreader bar for the undercarriage has been shaped in pear wood and varnished as it will not take any weight and I was able to shape it along the grain of the wood. Two small pieces of thin wire were inserted into the ends of the spreader bar - these attach to the undercarriage legs as per the original aircraft. The axle will sit on top of the spreader bar and will be made from brass rod. The undercarriage legs and wing skids have been painted as per the spar additions described above. I had already made the tail skid which is also shown in the photo.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50368859316_80b3bc32cf_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jJVz3U)
I drilled the ends of the undercarriage legs so that I could also insert small wire pins where they are attached to the fuselage nacelle. Now the joint is CA'd where the pins are inserted into pre-drilled holes, and the plastic has cement where it is in contact with the fuselage frame. Hopefully these joints will be strong enough. The cockpit step on the starboard front leg is also a short piece of wire. The extra dangly bits in the photos are control cables for the elevators: I have had to put the pulleys in place at the tops of the rear inner bay struts and I needed to put the cables on (they are EZ line) because I will not be able to do so later. Just more things to get in the way.......
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50369019617_ff206fa93b_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jJWoGH)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50368156883_d82bd18a63_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jJRYeZ)
Two other small details have been added: the wind generator and cable on the port forward cabane strut and the fuel pipe from the gravity tank on the starboard forward cabane strut:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50369019747_88d14dbf74_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jJWoJX)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50368156988_cdb60dc5b2_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jJRYgN)
Finally I finished the instrument panel. This had been started as I had cut the semi-circle from card and painted it with oils some time ago. I made a compass from a piece of thick sprue and card and fixed a transfer to the top. The instruments came from the same Airscale sheet as the compass. The bezels were from HG models PE set. The backs of the instruments were small pieces of rod suitably shaped and painted and the ASI pipe and other wires CA'd into place. This will be one of the last parts to be fitted to the model but I had become so frustrated with lack of progress that I wanted to do something straightforward and have something to show the time taken!
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50368859361_502c878d4a_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jJVz4F)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50369019657_431f917947_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jJWoHp)
I am hoping that the next post will be of a completed model: there is much time consuming work to do with very little of photographic interest, but I will keep a record of sorts and hope that I will not be too long. However I do have to visit family for a week shortly, so the next update may be a while coming.
Thanks for looking.
Stephen.
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Gee , with all the mishaps with a few builds here it's like we are in competition with each other on who can do the worst damage . :o
Glad that you were able to re-group and continue Stephen , that rigging is looking fantastic and the undercarriage is also sweet looking !
Terri
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Great work, Stephen. Looks like some spiders got loose and helped you along! The IPs look very good. As for the landing gear, sometimes plastic is the best material - easily shaped and dimensionally stable.
Looking forward to seeing this completed. Its very impressive already!
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beautiful! really beautiful!
ciao
edo
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Looking forward to the finish, Sir!
An amazing model.
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glad you stuck with it as it's looking awesome, can't wait to see the finished model 8)
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Only one word, Brilliant!
RAGIII
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Evening All,
Thanks Terri, Ken, Edo, Old Man, Early Bird Fan and Rick for passing by and leaving those positive and encouraging comments - they are much appreciated.
I am calling this one finished. I have added the last few details and completed all of the rigging.
The final details included the wheels and axle, (wheels were from Gaspatch - highly recommended: the axle is a piece of brass rod), the longerons on the cockpit sides, cockpit step, tail and wing skids, control horns, instrument panel and gun mountings. The last of the rigging, including the control wires and anti-drag wires, tail skid spring, (made by winding thin copper wire around a paintbrush handle), and associated wires, etc completed the model.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50427888737_b7a5b3c7b3_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jQ97rx)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50427018183_54b46515ba_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jQ4DDZ)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50427711851_e8c47990f5_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jQ8cRM)
There are more photos in the completed models section.
Thanks to all who have dropped by and given much support in the course of this build.
Stephen.
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Wow!
I built the sister DH 2 from a kit in smaller scale as stripdown, and this was already a lot of work! So I can only imagine the effort to create also all the needed parts for this big bird - well done, Stephen!
Thanks for the journey through this build.
Cheers,
Frank
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Brilliant!
What an amazing build. If I only had 1% of your skills...
Willem
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A museum piece, Sir.
Wonderful work.
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Congratulations! What a beauty!! :D
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it's a true work of art and as others have said is museum piece quality, you should be extremely proud of this one
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Thanks Frank, Willem, Old Man, William and EBF for the kind remarks. I really appreciate them.
Willem: I have been following closely your wonderful V1500 build and can see that you clearly possess far more than 1% of my skills! You also have a great deal more courage to tackle such a large model in this scale....
Stephen.
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wow! mind blowing!
super!!
ciao
edo
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Thanks Edo for the kind comment.
Stephen.
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Wonderful work !
Ed
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Thanks Ed.
Stephen.
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I have no idea and no excuse why this wonderful project escaped my attention somehow someday. That’s breathtaking modelling Stephen, congratulations!
Andreas
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Thank you Andreas for the very kind comment.
Stephen.