'Fabric' decals and small fixtures and fittings?

[GrahamB]

Hi,

this is bothering me and putting me off using the various lozenge/'fabric' decals for the moment. How do the experts deal with the small (even tiny) fixtures and fittings that are present on wings and fuselages when applying these decals? I am carefully painting all of these in readiness for the decal stage but wonder how easy is it to remove the overlying decal? When it is dry (but probably firmly adhered) or when almost dry?   

Any advice gratefully received.

Cheers,

Graham

Using Aviattics' CDL on the DH2 and then overpainting with DS/DV brown or green.

[RAGIII]

I had no trouble at all removing the overlying decals with a sharp xacto blade on my most recent DVII build! Just ran the blade along the edge. I was using Aviattic Lozenge. The other option is just to overpaint the fittings with the appropriate color if too small to trim. JMHO,
RAGIII

[gcn]

A sharp knife, a steady hand and patience.

Aviattic decals seem to be the decal of choice these days and to avoid the delicacy that other fabric decal sets have there is a touch more flex in them, so they are slightly harder to cut than say Wood & wires offerings.

Waiting until they are fully dry and a new blade should see you ok though. I've just trimmed the walkways on my Hannovers lower wings and they came up fine, but I did need to do several light passes.

[GrahamB]

Many thanks guys - and Richard especially. I'll definitely have a small practice area on a spare wing or something rather than commit straight to the main model. Don't want to waste these beautiful products.

Cheers,

GrahamB

[drdave]

I have developed a little cheat with aviattic lozenge. I melt the decal over strut attachment holes with Tamiya extra thin. Similarly, this is now my preferred method of getting neat edges on ailerons and wing tips with the decals. If you're careful it's very neat. Take care though.

[GrahamB]

 

I melt the decal over strut attachment holes with Tamiya extra thin.

Sounds drastic but something to try out.

This is an interesting subject - "How do ideas like this emerge?"

GrahamB

[Des]

Like others have said, I wait until the decal is completely dry before attemting to cut the small sections out. I always use a new No.11 scalpel blade, very very sharp with a nice fine tip, does an extremely neat accurate job, of course a steady hand is important.

Des.

[WarrenD]

I have developed a little cheat with aviattic lozenge. I melt the decal over strut attachment holes with Tamiya extra thin. Similarly, this is now my preferred method of getting neat edges on ailerons and wing tips with the decals. If you're careful it's very neat. Take care though.

Dave,
        You mean that you apply thin liquid cement to the decals?  Sorry if I'm being dense and/or not tracking correctly.

Warren

[gcn]

I do that as well. It's excellent for clearing out holes where the struts go as well or around the moulded on brackets for the airlons. Just make sure you have as little as possible on the brush and dab it against the area you want to remove or tidy up. Too much glue and capillary action will take it far and wide.

[drdave]

Exactly, but if it's done carefully it eliminates ragged overhangs perfectly.

[stefanbuss]

This is an interesting subject - "How do ideas like this emerge?"

Sounds a bit like "discovery via accident" 

Stefan

[drdave]

Ive used it before to make repairs to plit decals

[Ernie]

The trimming is not a problem with as Des mentioned a sharp
blade.  I use a new single edge razor blade which works perfectly.
I have to say the idea of the Extra thin glue is brilliant.  I have recently
tried it and it works like a dream.

Cheers,
Ernie