Author Topic: WNW FE2b Late  (Read 38849 times)

Offline Ian from Doncaster

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Re: WNW FE2b Late
« Reply #15 on: May 28, 2012, 08:07:13 AM »
I have seen far better wood graining than this, but it's good enough for me, for what I'm capable of...

Finished the oils for the wood on the other bits, cockpit frames etc, and nascelle interiors.  The stitching will be highlighted before I close up the nascelle.




Offline phs Paddy

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Re: WNW FE2b Late
« Reply #16 on: May 28, 2012, 08:09:48 AM »
I go along with the rest of the folks and think your wood grain has a special touch. Looks very, very good.

Paddy
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Offline pepperman42

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Re: WNW FE2b Late
« Reply #17 on: May 28, 2012, 09:27:04 AM »
The interior is just MORE of your excellent technique!! After the base coat do you do one colour of oil then the other or are you working them in simultaneously? Also is it Ochre and Burnt Sienna?

Steve

Offline coyotemagic

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Re: WNW FE2b Late
« Reply #18 on: May 28, 2012, 10:01:29 AM »
Your wood grain looks perfect to my eye, Ian.  Fantastic start, mate.
Cheers,
Bud
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Offline lcarroll

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Re: WNW FE2b Late
« Reply #19 on: May 28, 2012, 01:08:13 PM »
Ian,
   I think your wood grain effect is really supurb; remember the scale Transfer/effect thing; this to my eye looks very real. I'll be following along very closely, looks like this little devil is going places!
Cheers,
Lance

Offline Ian from Doncaster

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Re: WNW FE2b Late
« Reply #20 on: May 28, 2012, 05:29:24 PM »
Thanks for the comments - much appreciated.  The WNW recommended technique works well enough for me :)

Currently I use Raw Sienna and Burnt Umber.  I don't mix the colours first, but apply the Raw Sienna first.  Whilst still wet I dot on tiny bits of Burnt Umber and then brush in in the direction of the grain.  This darkens the mix slightly but also gives a few areas of subtle shade changes.  I am thinking about adding a further colour for more depth.  Next time maybe.

The base colour is Humbrol 93 Sand - this is quite golden so I would use a more beige shade as a base for lighter wood,

Offline RAGIII

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Re: WNW FE2b Late
« Reply #21 on: May 28, 2012, 10:07:45 PM »
Ian,
Great start as Gregory said! Wood looks perfect!
RAGIII
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Offline Ian from Doncaster

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Re: WNW FE2b Late
« Reply #22 on: May 29, 2012, 08:05:12 AM »
Not much extra tonight - started to assemble the cockpit, but most of the oiled wood bits aren't ready.  Got the rudder bar on and rigged, but still need to add foot straps.  Micro mask will do the trick nicely.


Offline Pete Nottingham

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Re: WNW FE2b Late
« Reply #23 on: May 29, 2012, 08:16:56 AM »
This is starting to come along very well indeed now Ian, looking superb.

Cheers

Pete.

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Re: WNW FE2b Late
« Reply #24 on: May 29, 2012, 08:26:20 AM »
I read your oils aren't dried as yet ! I use the same technique as you and even use the same brand oil paints. I have the same problem with drying there must be some sort of product that can mixed with the oil paint to speed the drying process, it's been 2 weeks since I applied my oil coat and I noticed it's only just dried!! By the way I love what You've done to date beautiful work mate!

Sean

Offline pepperman42

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Re: WNW FE2b Late
« Reply #25 on: May 29, 2012, 09:34:59 AM »
Do you mix a bit of turps in?

Steve

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Re: WNW FE2b Late
« Reply #26 on: May 29, 2012, 04:08:18 PM »
Yes I do use a small amount of turps as it thins the oil paint down ,I find it easier to brush.

Sean

Offline Ian from Doncaster

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Re: WNW FE2b Late
« Reply #27 on: May 30, 2012, 09:09:28 AM »
I'll leave my other wood bits for a few more days before applying a coat or two of klear, they are all prepared.

Tonight I managed to cut out all the components that will have the black surface ie wings, elevators, ailerons, rudder, wheels etc and gave them a prime with matt black from the rattle tin.  They'll get a top coat of satin black which I'll blend in before toning down the "blackness", as well as painting the top of the upper wing in the recommended brown colour.  No further pics yet.

The worst bit of the kits is removing the sprue trimmings and sanding the cuts smooth.  Took over two hours to cut out and prepare 20 plus components but about 5 minutes to spray them...

Offline keith_christie

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Re: WNW FE2b Late
« Reply #28 on: May 30, 2012, 04:17:35 PM »
Hi Ian,
Very nice work so far.
For the oil paints I use Windsor and Newton Liquin original, this is mixed into the oils before applying to the model and allows them to dry fully in around 24 hours. I was finding that without using it they could take up to 7 days to dry under normal temperature conditions.
Instead of using a clear coat you could try spraying tamiya clear orange or clear yellow, this will help vary the wooden tones and also protect them.
Keep up the good work.

Best Regards

Keith

Offline Pete Nottingham

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Re: WNW FE2b Late
« Reply #29 on: May 30, 2012, 07:17:28 PM »
I read your oils aren't dried as yet ! I use the same technique as you and even use the same brand oil paints. I have the same problem with drying there must be some sort of product that can mixed with the oil paint to speed the drying process, it's been 2 weeks since I applied my oil coat and I noticed it's only just dried!! By the way I love what You've done to date beautiful work mate!

Sean

Hi Sean; I use Winsor & Newton Griffin Alkyd Fast Drying oil paints, they dry overnight and they are used with either turps or white spirit, the only very slight downside to them is that you can feel them starting to go off after about 15 mins, but I've found this is plenty of time to get your wood painted.

Cheers

Pete.