Aces Mounts 2025 GB - Dieter Collins Albatros D1 1/72

[Tim Mixon]

Excellent work on the cabane struts. I never could get solder to adhere properly to brass. It always just runs off so I gave it up.

[DaddyO]

Thanks Guys

I've found the trick with soldering Tim is to get the brass really clean by sanding and then a quick wipe of isopropanol.

Each piece is tinned first (coated with a thin layer of solder at the joint end) I do this by dipping the brass into a tin of Bakers Flux and then touching with a soldering iron that has solder on it. The Flux means the solder should flow onto the piece nicely. Once both pieces to be joined are tinned I jig them together so the joint pieces are touching Filing if necessary to make sure they touch solidly (nothing complicated for the jig, just masking tape or scraps of wood) Add some flux to the joint again and touch with a hot iron and wait a few seconds for it to cool before moving. Tricky part is multiple joints on the same bit of brass which needs heat sinks in between joints or you end up with everything coming apart 

[DaddyO]

After a bit of primer, sanding, more primer etc. which are pretty dull pictures I got round to adding some paint today. I'll list the colours used later if anyone is interested (all acrylics) Trying a new thinner mix out which seems to work better, but the paint still feels a touch soft at the moment so a few days drying called for. Hopefully it'll harden off and a repaint won't be called for.

Lower wing painted a lightened version of the blue before added some masking; after spraying with the 'true' colour rib tapes can be seen. Made it a bit subtle on this one, but hey ho 

DI Spraying by Paul S, on Flickr

And the top view (complete with a couple of patches which I'll touch up later) 

DI top surfaces by Paul S, on Flickr

I decided to go for the painted tailfeathers since I thought they'd be easy to do for the ground crew when painting the fuselage and I couldn't see any obvious camouflage lines on the pictures I looked at. I couldn't make out the layout of markings on the wings either so chose a pattern that is seen on another DI just because I quite liked the look of it . . .
I'll paint the cowl areas in a pale grey because it looks like there's a very slight tonal difference in some pictures and I think it likely that the 'dope' colour wouldn't have been continued onto the metal panels. (I think Mike did the same on his, but I can't locate the thread at the moment)

Anyway once the paints hardened I'll add a gloss coat and then go back to finish detailing the cockpit/cowl areas.

Paul

[PrzemoL]

Nice!

[Alexis]

Thumbs up !


Alexis

[NigelR]

Looking good. You know I much prefer subtle to overdone.....

[DaddyO]

Thanks you chaps

Bad news is that my usual gloss coat (Gauzy shine enhancer with the green label) which I've been using for the last couple of years immediately started to lift the paint when applied with a brush as usual Wiping off with water and a tissue pad removed the smearing, but also removed parts of the paint finish; I'll spare you horrific photos, but it'll need a repaint. Luckily I started with the top wing and so have tried some W&N Galleria gloss on the other side which is currently drying although it does look a bit crap at the moment

Spraying is perhaps the obvious answer which I might try when I've settled down. It must be said that to spray anything I have to clear the workbench and re-route various power cables to set up the spray booth which makes it less appealing than a brush

Incidentally the cause of the issue is the 'new' thinner mix I tried since all the paints used have been fine in the past.
It was recommended by a user on another forum for spraying Vallejo model air paints and it did help spray them beautifully (a mix of vallejo airbrush thinner, retarder and flow improver) Previously I've just used distilled water for thinning without any issues, but some paints did seem to dry in the airbrush rather quickly. Another lesson learned

[NigelR]

Bad news is that my usual gloss coat (Gauzy shine enhancer with the green label) which I've been using for the last couple of years immediately started to lift the paint when applied with a brush as usual

Oh dear, you know I feel your pain! I've decided that my problems were due to a combination of atmospheric conditions and air pressure probably too high. I've started adding flow enhancer which I hope will help, but I can understand it might make the finish a bit more fragile, which maybe what happened in your case.

FWIW I just sprayed some Model Air combined with flow improver and Vallejo thinner, and it did spray netter than usual. But that's scant consolation for you..... 

[Allan31]

Sorry to hear Paul and Nigel,
I switched over to acrylics a few years ago and after trying several different brands I settled on Vallejo essentially for the many colors and FS# right on the label.
They work best with Vallejo thinner and flow improver, and just a drop of each at that. I shoot at about 25-30psi for overall coverage. All the Vallejo materials are perfectly at home with Future that I use for my gloss and diluting. Such as when I want a transparent coating of Mahogany for struts and propellers, 50/50 Future and Vallejo Mahogany.
Since going all in with Vallejo and sticking with the Vallejo product line I have had no problems whatsoever with pebble finish, orange peel, adhesion or tip drying. They have never lifted with masking tape and pass the finger nail scratch test with flying colors.
Model building is too much fun to be ruined by under performing paints.
HTH.....

[DaddyO]

Thanks chaps appreciate the support

I've been very careful in the past and should have stuck to what's previously been okay, but there you go. I do like the Vallejo air colours, but find them too thin for hand brushing or touch ups generally so have moved over to the AK brand in general for most things which seem to work okay for both (I really like the Scale colour Artists tube paints, which brush and spray really nicely, but it does mean mixing a batch up for each colour that might be used or needed for touch ups because they come in a limited range)

In the meantime I've ordered a fresh pot of W&N gloss to use on the rest of the model since the upper wing surface looks okayish. Perhaps the slower drying time or phase of the moon was in my favour - who knows. I'll rub down and repaint the bottom of the top wing and move on; hopefully without too many other hiccups 

[Tim Mixon]

Sorry to hear about the need for a repaint Paul.  It?s looking great though despite the troubles.

[DaddyO]

Well after testing both types of paint on a spare wing using water to thin and brushing on I had no issues with any type of varnish (including a Future equivalent) I can't think that using an airbrush was the reason given the good atmospheric conditions when it was originally sprayed so it looks like the thinner mix was the issue 

Although the rest of the model looked to have dried okay when I cautiously applied some varnish to an area of the fuselage I could see the surface softening slightly so I decided it wasn't worth the risk and have removed all the paint and the model is back to bare plastic ready to start again with a fresh coat of primer. Managed to lose a couple of small details in the process (hinge, undercarriage band and a brass hatch, but I can replace them and hopefully get this bird painted 

[NigelR]

Oh dear, that's a real pity. At least you are keeping going with this. I probably would have given up at this stage.....!

[DaddyO]

Oh dear, that's a real pity. At least you are keeping going with this. I probably would have given up at this stage.....!

That still might be possible Nigel  
Seem to have spent an age on this one already - I'll see how it looks when the varnish coats and decals are on and decide whether to give it a proper old fashioned Viking burial or push on to the finish . . .

[Allan31]

Oh do finish. Letting plastic or paint win just isn't exceptable after all these years we've put in.
60psi and blast a hole in the thing....