WnW 1/32 Salmson 2-A2 "USAS"

[Tim Mixon]

Wow!  Amazing details on one of my favorite aircraft. Thanks for sharing your technique with replicating worn leather. I?ll definitely try this out.

All the best,
Tim

[Rafael Berlin]

Thanks to all of you for you nice compliments 

[Rafael Berlin]

Hello everyone,

it's been a while since the last post, so it's time to continue. Well, you asked for the dirty details, so you have to read everything 

Today it will be about the side struts, side parts and maybe a few little things. Here are the two inner side parts in their raw state:



So many details on just so few components. Therefore, a lot of masking work. Also areas that need to be glued were masked.



Ocher color, as before, as first step for imitating wood



Oil tank received a blue painting



Then came the oil paints. Always the same as before. But always slightly different mixing ratios to make it a little more lively. Please note, many small things (cables, hoses, valves, ...) were immediately stripped from the oil paint using Enamelthinner.




Maybe interesting, at least for readers from Germany. I really like using makeup brushes for ?oil painting,? and these are exactly these ones from Rossmann:




The two brushes on the left are ideal for the wood grain. They don't scratch and have exactly the right stiffness depending on the application. And the package costs just 6-7 euros (would be roughly the same in dollars).
I wrote "oil" on it because I use the same brushes (not the same ones) for dry brushing. Just to avoid any confusion 


After a few days I continued with TS13 clear varnish, no picture of that.


Demasking:



And (as an example) mask again



Some details were painted with brush



The upper wing supports were treated in the same way as the other wing supports from the previous post.

Here are a few detailed photos of the inside parts:






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Now the actual side walls. Looking back, I did a bit too much work. Oh well. Way too much work.

You make an extra effort to remove the ejection marks...




...only to discover later that they disappear behind the oil tank (just shown). One could have noticed 

OK, starting with pretty components is also something



All glue points have been masked



Pre-shading was actually rather unnecessary. Oh well



Linen color



Let me put it as follows: you can see the preshading (unfortunately not in the photos). However, later you will only see small parts through the opening. Worth the effort? At least it makes you feel good 

OK. let's continue. That was rather unpleasant:



Oil paint again. There's a lot of wood in here:



Unmasked it looks pretty, but sterile



Sealing with TS13



Now we mash, oil paint with turpentine substitute:



yummy



Distribute nice and gently 



Don't forget toilet paper... (to soak up any excess) 

Then it dries quite quickly. While it's drying, you can use a brush to add some contour as you like:



Well, this is what you'll see later (everyone has to decide for himself, if it's worth the extra mile):



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Perhaps another little thing, the signal lamp. Here it is on the toothpick:



Black satin matt the base coat and aluminum roughly dabbed with a sponge as peeled paint:




Now that wasn't a flashlight. The lamp had a proper power supply, probably with a plug, see lamp in the below linked picture (number 11) from the internet. Source is a user "thegreatlandoni" who made has his Flickr album https://www.flickr.com/photos/landoni/albums/72157630332673974/ available for all of us. Here the link to the exact picture https://flic.kr/p/64uMWn

I used 0.2mm lead wire for the connection cable:



Twisted:



Wrapped around brush handle:



Painted brown



Glued on:



View "from the inside"



That should be it for today. If you like, here are all the individual parts (some not shown so far) as they currently exist:



Next time maybe a few more details (second seat, belt, battery...), if desired.

Thanks for watching (and your patience). See you soon,
Rafael



As always, all photos of the project can be found here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/6HJAoo86QpPWBft5A

[Scaleber]

Wow, simply wow!  Thanks for providing such detail.  Quite inspiring.  Cheers / Ian

[NigelR]

Beautiful detail work, most of which is designed for Schrodinger as we say on here (it's both there and not there, because once the fuselage is closed up you can't see a lot of it!). The effort is part of the enjoyment though, and at least you have photos for posterity of all this superb work.

The makeup brushes are very cheap and very useful.

[Borsos]

Great work, but now we want to see your great eyes as well. . . 

[KiwiZac]

I love your attention to detail and paint work, Rafael. What a beautiful build.

[Europapete]

This is such an awesome tutorial. Thank you.
Hey guys, if you haven't clicked on his album link above, do so. Amazingly detailed log of the build.

[AngryJazz]

Beautiful work! Defentialy saving for future reference and ideas 

[DaddyO]

Fabulous so far can't wait for the next installment 

Paul

[rhwinter]

WOW!!!

[Rafael Berlin]

Thank you very much, I'm really happy that you like it 

[Dirigible-Al]

Some brilliant work done here. This is turning out to be a good one to follow.
Alan.

[RAGIII]

The Salmson was one of My favorite WNW builds. What you are doing to the kit is amazing!
RAGIII

[Rafael Berlin]

Thanks Alan and RAG!

So I would like to continue a little bit. In the last weeks I finished the interior of the cockpit. It may not seem like that many changes in the end, but it was quite time consuming. Some bracing wires were complicated and I had to wait for a creative idea 

Working material for the bracing wires and control wires was the elastic thread from Infini. Whenever it only needs to be passed through a tube once, I use the very thin ones from Albion Alloys (0.2mm/0.4mm):



I used Gaspatch turnbuckles in 1/48. I cut them off in rows and then stuck them onto a stir stick:



In this form they can be easily painted. For me it was Alclad 2 steel:



Most frequent type of bracing was the following. For most of you most likely nothing new, but some readers might like a little explanation. Hopefully the picture story is self-explanatory:




Just before the turnbuckle, add a small drop of superglue, then you can wrap one end of the thread around the other (still tensioned) thread.



Fix everything again with superglue. But in such a way that nothing gets into the eyelet of the turnbuckle, so that everything remains loose and movable. Both sides finished:




Taking a look on the original Salmson pictures it was for me the most appropriate solution.


After the two tubes have been pushed on, everything is ready for further processing. Glue in, with appropriate cuts. You can do it in such a way that the tubes are only pushed into place after threads have been glued in the frames. Than fix also the tubes with superglue:



Put a piece of paper underneath to protect the floor from splashes of paint:



Mix metal paint to taste:



Paint, done:



Things work differently with the control cables. First, I made guides inside the wooden frames out of tubes. (It will immediately become clear what I mean). This time I used slightly thicker tubes to make it easier. Inner diameter 0.3mm, outer diameter 0.5mm. Tip, use a drill to ensure continuity.



But the drill is also useful for gluing the tube in precisely. Simply stick it on, prepare the target location with a drop of superglue and then place it precisely with the drill:



A lot of these guide tubes were glued in. Not visible in the photo, I painted a bracket later:



Here are the control cables themselves. Since these have to be threaded through tubes twice, I also used the slightly thicker 0.3mm/0.5mm tube version:





The rudder control cables were initially routed underneath the tank:



Here you can see how the control cables run through the tubes on the sides of the wooden frames:




The fixation on a piece of Styrofoam. Just put a toothpick in it. The threads can then be tensioned well with masking tape:



Here is the idea of ​​a rather complicated internal bracing. The ropes must be stretched crosswise in two places, but not with the cross in the middle. You can see it in the photo already shared in the last post:



I proceeded as follows for this. For the ropes with turnbuckles already explained above, I cut an extremely thin ring from the 0.3mm/0.5mm tube:



Everything is threaded a bit specifically:



Put it to the later position:



Now you can play with the tension of the threads:



Once you have aligned it somewhat, the ring has to be pushed down evenly, which is a bit of fiddling. It is then fixed there with superglue. I then added a good drop of superglue, which was then painted. Here is the result of the two particularly crossed ropes (left and right of the folding seat):




Subsequently, further bracing wires were added between the individual wooden frames. But it's actually always the same:




What became really complicated, however, were the bracing wires from crossing double ropes right next to the front seat. There is actually no space to work. And they have to be painted before gluing, otherwise you won't be able to reach them with a brush. Maybe a few more impressions of this to give you an idea of ​​how it still worked for me. You glue the threads on one side:




You can then paint them while they are stretched. So tighten it briefly with e.g. masking tape.



Then you can thread through and glue on the other side. (Without photo)

Another method, sometimes useful. Use the weight of the tweezers for tighteninh, simply because you lack your third and fourth hands 




All tensions are then attached here. Front left even in a double version (there is also a detailed photo):




Finally, a few impressions from the inside, partly with the side wall in the background:










The cockpit is now finished from the inside. Big compliments to Wingnut Wings. This is the most beautifully detailed cockpit from the inside for me so far. It's complicated, but the result right out of the box is really impressive. Great kit.

I wil proceed with the motor.

Thanks for reading. As always, all photos can be found here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/6HJAoo86QpPWBft5A

Best Regards
Rafael