1:32nd scale Roland D.VIa

[Mike Norris]

Very nice!! Interesting that the joins are not butted; but, saw tooth. Did that increase the fuselage's rigidity?

I think so.
Roland used overlapping plywood planks, known as ’lapstrake’, which was similar to that used on clinker built boats.
This proved to be as strong, but lighter than existing constructions provided, which was an important factor for a fighter aircraft.

Mike

[Mike Norris]

Hi all,
The wood effect decals with 'scarf' joint plywood joints (from 'ProperPlane') are now done.
These are probably the most difficult decals I've applied, as Matt (FokkerFodder) is finding.
The 'scarf' joint strips and the fin, rudder and lower wing fairing were tricky, but the fuselage decals were something else.
They are four separate fuselage long single decals.
Not 'cookie' cut and with no marking or transparent areas for the fuselage raised details, such as access panels, pulleys and fittings.
Cutting these into sections was not really feasible as any slight overlap of the decal joins would show up as dark (double thickness of the decal.
Therefore when you lay down the decal, it rest on top of all the raised detail, like one pole holding up a tent.
This causes wrinkles and fold over of the decals.
I eventually worked around the problem but not without a few tears (patched) and wrinkles (fortunately on the underside), but these are certainly not for the less experienced modeler.

The decals are similar to those from 'Aviattic' in transparecy, but are not as strong.
They were laid onto a base coat of 'Tamiya' Dark Yellow (XF59) to darken the effect.

Next up is creating the masks for painting the large yellow arrow marking along the sides of the fuselage, which of course will cover a lot of the decals,

Mike

[RAGIII]

The wood grain decals have turned out well Mike. Seems a lot is involved in their use. I think personally I will stick with oils  That being said they do look great once all is settled!
RAGIII

[hrcoleman66]

That looks awesome Mike!

You gotta be happy with that.

Cheers,

Hugh

[fredjocko]

The wood grain definitely looks great and was worth the effort.

[kensar]

Looks very realistic, even in the closeups.

[Alexis]

Looks good Mike , has an authentic feel to it 


Alexis

[Mike Norris]

There is some doubt now over the authenticity of this particular colour scheme.
It seems that it was based on what is apparently the only known photograph of Emil Schäpe seated in a Roland fighter.
The Windsock Data file states that he is seated in a Roland D.VI but doesn't state whether it is a D.VIa or the later D.VIb version.
The photograph shows what appears to be the top of a multi-headed arrow marking on the side of the fuselage.
The late Dan-San Abott interpreted this as the yellow arrow and this seems to have been accepted by painters and illustrators, such as Bob Pearson's profile I'm basing this model on.

The doubts centre on three things - The aircraft in the photograph is a later Roland D.VIb (not a D.VIa), the arrow marking was a lightning bolt marking (not an arrow) and the fuselage was not varnished wood but in fact painted.
I've looked again at the photograph and to me at least, the fuselage marking looks more like an arrow head that lightning bolts.
Also I believe wood grain can be seen on the fuselage planking, although it is very faint. That said this was plywood strips, which wouldn't have much wood grain as such.
As to whether this is a D.VIa or a D.VIb is difficult to tell as the main differences were the D.VIb had a different engine and radiator cowl under the nose of the aircraft, neither of which can be seen on the photograph.
One possible clue for it being a D.VIb is that the two machine guns have extended cocking handles, which from other photographs the D.VIa didn't (standard cocking handles).
Maybe one day someone will come up with photographic or documentary evidence to settle these doubts,

When I build a model I like to try where possible to apply colour schemes that are not often modeled, which is why I chose this particular scheme.
I also didn't want to cover the wood effect decals with too much paintwork.
However, given the uncertainty of this colour scheme I've decided to switch the scheme to the Roland D.VIa, Serial No. 3615/18, which had no personal or Jasta fuselage markings.

Mike

[Mike Norris]

Hi all,
The basic fuselage is now finished.
As I said in the previous posts, the original colour scheme I was planning to do is in doubt, as to its authenticity.
In addition, any masking or masking tape laid onto these decals, no-matter how gently, started to lift the decals.
Having spent time and effort applying the wood effect decals, I didn't want to risk destroying them with masking.
There I chose an authentic scheme that has no personal or unit markings.

The metal fittings were brush painted with 'Tamiya' Grey Green (XF76).
Padding was 'Humbrol' Leather (62) with hightlights of 'Tamiya' Hull Red (XF9).
Other metal fittings were 'Mr. Colour' Stainless Steel (213) and 'Tamiya' Black (X18)
'Weathering applied with 'Flory Models' Dark Dirt clay wash.
Sealing coat is 'Alclad' Light Sheen (311).

Now onto preparing the wings, ailerons, tail plane, rudder and elevators for the lozenge decals,

Mike

[FokkerFodder]

Wow - Looking great Mike! I think picking a largely unmarked plane is a good idea - show off all that wood effect. I’m going to try and finish off my decals this weekend. Cheers Matt

[Mike Norris]

Hi Matt,
Good luck with that.
Apart from what we've both found thus far, I found that the decals lift easily.
Mine were treated with 'Microscale' MicroSet and also 'Tamiya' X20A thinners.
They were also then sealed with 'Alclad' Aqua Gloss 600.
Even so, when I just lightly touched the mask I was going to use onto the fuselage, then carefully took it off to reposition it, the decals started to lift with the mask in various areas.
That's one of the reasons I ended up choosing this scheme, that doesn't require masking the fuselage,

Mike

[hrcoleman66]

I think that the cleaner varnished wood Fuselage looks great! 

I wouldn't be too upset that the decals won't allow you to get more creative...  Just put it down as a note that if you want to mask and paint over a varnished finish in the future, don't use the decals...

CHeers,

Hugh

[Gisbod]

Ooh very nice Mike,

Yes, I’ve learnt never to mask over decals...

Guy

[Mike Norris]

Yeah it's strange these decals lift.
I've masked over other decals in the past using the same conforming solutions and sealer and had no problems.
It could be because the 'scarf' joints are decals on top of the fuselage wood decal, so double decal.
Hey-ho - moving on,

Mike

[FokkerFodder]

Hi Mike - mine have set like concrete - however I’m going to try a couple of the solutions you mention to see if they help lift them - I’m trying to remove some and it would be great to avoid respraying the white undercoat. Cheers Matt