WNW Tripehound 2nd ever build log

[RichieW]

Thanks Rick, yes definitely talk the Mrs into a potter. Really useful tool it is proving to be. At first it was infuriating, it still is but I'm getting the hang of the software slowly.

[Borsos]

Wow, very cool!
Andreas

[RichieW]

Thank you Andreas, it wasn't very cool today trying to remove all the liquid mask. Definitely won't be using it again on cabanes.

[RichieW]

Many hours were spent today picking off bits of Mr liquid mask, I've never had a problem with it before but I left it on the model for far too long I think. I did some touch ups on the markings which necessitated more touch ups and more still. There are still bits to improve on but I think I might just leave it and move on. Can't go getting too fussy, that way madness lies!

20200526_204815 by Richard Williams, on Flickr

I have some dry transfer number and letter decals with what looks like the right typeface arriving soon for the serial number so there won't just be a white rectangle on the tail soon.

I sprayed the lower wing roundels and at first glance I think for the first time ever I have masked something and won't have to spend hours retouching.

20200526_204837 by Richard Williams, on Flickr

The real Dixie II has PC 10 wrapped round all lower wing surfaces, this scares me. Anybody got any advice on how to do it cleanly? My inner realist is saying leave it as it is but is quite a prominent feature.

Shuttleworth Collection Sopwith Triplane replica Dixie II by Richard Williams, on Flickr


Thanks for reading, think it's time to open the rum bottle for a bit of pain relief.

Richie

[RAGIII]

Your Triplane continues to look great Richie. I think that the length of time that one leaves on a liquid mask does indeed make a difference. On My Spads I used a very small amount on the tail section of both SPADS. I actually did a test first on the Guynemer SPAD just to be sure. That went well so I applied it to the other two. After a few days It was a gelled Mess to get off.
RAGIII

[Alexis]

Very nice Richie 



Terri

[Vickers]

Your "Dixie" is looking great, Richie. FWIW, whenever I have to trim semi-flat thingies like wings and tails I just scan them full size on my cheesy little printer and then open them in MS paint and resize them by a few percent (around 5 to 8%) until the difference appears to match the desired width of the trim. Then I just cut out the image and use it as a mask. Occasional undetected slippage and other happy accidents aside, it works well enough for me.

Another way, of course, is simply to paint the edge first and then mask around that with tape. I did this N.11 using the aforementioned scanner method, though:

[FAf]

Good work with the masks! It looks good and with a bit of practice you shouldn't have to do any touch ups.
/Fredrik

[RichieW]

Ah, Vickers that is a great idea. I may be able to do that on my cutting machine. Your Nieuport is beautiful,  the mask certainly worked there.

Thanks Terri!

Thanks Fredrik, yes I'm finding my way with the technique still. There's a very tricky little emblem on the tail fin that still needs doing. I've been practising on plastic card but no success yet. Plenty time to work on it in lockdown still!

[GazzaS]

Nice!

[smperry]

Richie
I did this machine way back when, I forget the kit now, but those were the markings that were on the decal sheet. Your masking looks 100% better than those decals did.
Your issues with pulling off the liquid mask brings up an interesting point. Two schools of thought about masks. Leave it on for a while or get it gone ASAP. I subscribe to the get it gone ASAP school. My reasons are the result of several bad experiences with masking left on too long. I usually pull the mask off anything before the freshly sprayed paint is completely dry; as in no longer wet, but still happy to take a fingerprint. The benefits of doing this is that 1, the paint has not formed a hard dry bond with the masking material and so the mask pulls up without damaging the line between colors. 2, The mask's adhesive has not had time to bond with the base coat of paint and is less likely to pull that up. 3, if there is a slight leak under the mask, the not fully cured paint is easier to remove with  a brush dampened with the appropriate thinner. All of the above factors work even better if the base color is fully cured.  If the base color paint has a tendency to pull up, then a light coat of fully cured Future/Pledge over the base color before masking is in order. I have demonstrated a talent for messing up masking jobs, but I have had much greater success by a long shot when I remove the mask as quickly as possible. With tape or sticky back vinyl or paper masks, I use the old Mom pulling off the BandAid trick of snatching it off quickly.
sp

[Bughunter]

The real Dixie II has PC 10 wrapped round all lower wing surfaces, this scares me. Anybody got any advice on how to do it cleanly?

Made this on my SE.5a. It is somehow easy to mask, because you have a good control over this small stripe during masking. For the arc, see the tail picture, the Tamiya curved tape was a good help:
https://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=9848.msg179794#msg179794

Cheers,
Frank

[RichieW]

That's brilliant, thank you Frank. I have some Tamiya curve tape somewhere. Nice simple solution. Will try this tomorrow and let you know how I get on.

[lone modeller]

The paintwork looks very good Richie. I am pleased to read Frank's comment which I am sure will be most helpful. A little gem in the making here.

Stephen.

[RichieW]

Thanks as always Stephen, I found my cervable Tamiya tape this evening and will give it a go tomorrow. Various brass rods and tubes arrived today so back on the SE soon.