forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Under Construction => Topic started by: lcarroll on May 28, 2012, 09:00:23 AM
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I thought I might as well post this build here at least in an abbreviated form. It is part of a Group build on another site however I notice several other members are doing this so hopefully I'm not "off side".
This Kit, like it's contemporaries from Wing Nut Wings, is an absolute jewel. Excellent fit, well thought out, and beautiful detail. I'll be using the WNW Jasta 18 Decal Sheet 30011 which provides for this all black fuselage aircraft when at Jasta 15 and then to Jasta 18 where it was no doubt changed to the Jasta 18 "Blue and Red" scheme.
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n583/lcarroll1/SE%205a%20and%20Beyond/IMG_1372.jpg)
This has been a very slow build; to date I've completed the engine, prop (as the example in my wooden prop tutorial in "Tips and Techniques) and having just completed the cockpit interior, I'll be mating the fuselage halves next.
The engine (DIII 160PS version) has scratch built lifter springs, A/Market spark plugs, asbestos wrap on the exhaust manifold, several extra bits of plumbing, and a full wiring harness. It was heavily weathered/grimed up with Tamiya Smoke, some grey and black wash, and a bit of raw pigments as well. Here it is ready to wire and un-weathered:
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n583/lcarroll1/SE%205a%20and%20Beyond/IMG_1417.jpg)
And a few shots after completion:
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n583/lcarroll1/SE%205a%20and%20Beyond/IMG_1438.jpg)
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n583/lcarroll1/SE%205a%20and%20Beyond/IMG_1440.jpg)
The cockpit was built mainly into the right fuselage half. Extras include handles/levers for the fuel control panel, scratch built seat cushion, various rods and cables, all flight control cables, stick grip throttle, control lock and a clock and altimeter to name a few. All the foregoing a combo of scratch built, after market bits, Eduard Photo Etch and Airscale Instrument parts.
The left side, not much there:
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n583/lcarroll1/IMG_1584.jpg)
And the very busy right side:
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n583/lcarroll1/IMG_1580.jpg)
And:
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n583/lcarroll1/IMG_1581.jpg)
And that's where she's presently at, I'll provide brief updates as she progresses.
Comments and suggestions most welcome; especially if I've forgotten something and you catch me before the point of no return!
Cheers,
Lance
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Nicely done so far. Shes ready to button up.
Steve
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Nice, busy looking cockpit Lance. It really looks the part.
What are you using for spark plugs? I've been using brass tubing with rbmotion nuts (Thanks Des!) to this point, but yours look good.
Lastly, what are using for your wiring harness? On my current Schweinhund, I used 0.010" lead wire with good results but I'm always on the prowl for new ideas.
Cheers,
Chris
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Brilliant work on the engine and cockpit, Lance. Looking forward to the next installment.
Cheers,
Bud
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Beautiful engine Lance and the cockpit looks a treat ;)
Andrew
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Lance,
Absolutely brilliant work on the Mercedes my old friend. Outstanding details and paint in the cockpit.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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Outstanding Lance. I'm happy that you decided to let us get a look and go along with your progress.
It's a jewel in the making!
Paddy
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Thanks All for the supportive comments; does wonders for the confidence. Chris, the plugs are from an Auto After market Company called RB Motion. Google it and I think it'll be an easy 'hit". They are actually sold (in packs of 8) as 1:24 Scale for Model Cars. They scale out bang on for the Daimler Mercedes Engines we model. The wire is from my stash of discarded lamp cords, ceiling fan bits, and household wiring leftovers. I use the silver colour for the engine ignition harnesses (It's a little stiffer) and the softer copper stuff for cockpit work. The price is certainly right!
Cheers,
Lance :)
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Great looking engine and cockpit Lance.
Cheers
Pete.
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Lance,
Spectacular detailing! Love this one so far!
RAGIII
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. . . the plugs are from an Auto After market Company called RB Motion. Google it and I think it'll be an easy 'hit". They are actually sold (in packs of 8) as 1:24 Scale for Model Cars. They scale out bang on for the Daimler Mercedes Engines we model.
When I bought their miniature nuts, I also looked at them and wondered if they'd be okay, so now that I've seen them in place, I'll give them a whirl.
Cheers,
Chris
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Chris,
They are a little pricey however they are a good product. I got the source from, I think, Eduardo (Moniker EDO), one of our fellow members from Italy. I use nuts and bolts from a company called Vector Cut which are made of a fibre composite of some sort, also an excellent product.(even come with a set of wrenches for those who do dioramas etc.) I have another pack and a half of the spark plugs (12, they come in packages of eight) in the stash for my WNW DVa which should hit the "production line" later this year.
Cheers,
Lance
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Bellissimo, Lance! ;)
Thanks for sharing & looking forward to seeing more updates.
BVB
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Chris,
They are a little pricey however they are a good product. I got the source from, I think, Eduardo (Moniker EDO), one of our fellow members from Italy. I use nuts and bolts from a company called Vector Cut which are made of a fibre composite of some sort, also an excellent product.(even come with a set of wrenches for those who do dioramas etc.) I have another pack and a half of the spark plugs (12, they come in packages of eight) in the stash for my WNW DVa which should hit the "production line" later this year.
Cheers,
Lance
Thanks to Des' recommendation on his site, I have the Vector Cut nuts too and I'm definitely going to try out these plugs. They'll be less fiddly than trying to glue the RBmotion nuts on brass tubing.
Cheers,
Chris
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Nice details on your Merc and in the interior! Thanks for the tip re: RBMotion spark plugs. I might check that out.
I like your solution of cutting the cockpit former half way up the left side to allow detailing of the left side -- I don't think I would have thought of that. Nice thinking out of the box.
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Nice details on your Merc and in the interior! Thanks for the tip re: RBMotion spark plugs. I might check that out.
I like your solution of cutting the cockpit former half way up the left side to allow detailing of the left side -- I don't think I would have thought of that. Nice thinking out of the box.
Thanks Unc. Tony. The plugs are little jewels, I am going to order more. The cutting of the former was more driven by desperation then clear thinking.........I needed more space to work in and access to do a few more additions and repairs and reasoned it would be a solution. My aged fat fingers tend to do a lot of damage in tight spaces.
Cheers,
Lance
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I should re-title this "Still Plodding Along Too" per Dal's thread, been a bear of a couple of weeks with very little time for my favorite past time!
I've completed the wings with painting of the upper, Lozenge and Tapes on the lower and empennage components, and the fuselage is closed up and has a base wood tone coat. The round access panels and cooling louvres are opened up, future and hairspray applied where necessary and next comes the black base coat followed by some chipping.
The Lozenge will either be covered in Microsculpt or oversprayed with a light buff or grey wash before "after-shading" with pastels and pigments. That technique will be my first attempt at other then Pre-Shading.
Once the paint and final coats are done I'll be removing the masks and adding the final few bits of plumbing etc to the engine compartment and cockpit before assembly of the various components.
As always I value any and all feedback; this one has had so many interuptions it takes me an hour or more to get going every time I sit down at the bench.........lots of potential to miss something obvious or forget "the plan"!!
Here's a bunch of photos of the progress to date............. (the square piece in the first photo is a test piece for the Microsculpt Decal top coat)
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n583/lcarroll1/IMG_1631.jpg)
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n583/lcarroll1/IMG_1632.jpg)
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n583/lcarroll1/IMG_1633.jpg)
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n583/lcarroll1/IMG_1634.jpg)
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n583/lcarroll1/IMG_1635.jpg)
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n583/lcarroll1/IMG_1637.jpg)
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n583/lcarroll1/IMG_1639.jpg)
And finally a shot of the newest tool in my inventory, RB Production's Scribe-R which I used to open up the cooling louvres and touch up the panel lines. Best scribing tool I've ever used (and I have at least a half dozen types that don't work!) I recieved it as a B-Day gift from a Nephew who does WWII Aircraft, and, it's in a word, excellent.
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n583/lcarroll1/IMG_1640.jpg)
I'll post a few photos once the lozenge has it's final cover/toning down; in the interim I'm open to any and all comments to keep me going in a straight line.
Cheers,
Lance
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nice work and you are plodding on yours much faster than mine. :) Good job on the louvres. I was toying with the idea of using pe parts (I have the eduard D.III fret) -- still might, but your results look outstanding, very clean.
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Nice to see you back on this beauty Lance. That tool looks quite the part too.
Tony, I used the tip of a sharp no 11 scalpel to pare my louvres open, its really easy and effective if done with care. (back of the blade against the fuselage)
Looking forwards to more progress Lance ;)
Keith
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Good tip, thanks Keith
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nice work and you are plodding on yours much faster than mine. :) Good job on the louvres. I was toying with the idea of using pe parts (I have the eduard D.III fret) -- still might, but your results look outstanding, very clean.
Uncle Tony,
I tried to use the Eduard PE Louvres on a DIII some time ago, to tell the truth I could not for the life of me figure them out, Dyslexia/age induced dysfunction !??!? In the end I used thin sheet brass and scratch built them using a burnishing approach over the ones molded on, sanded flush and installed the brass versions. I was pleased with the results but it's a lot of tricky work.
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n583/lcarroll1/IMG_02461.jpg)
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n583/lcarroll1/IMG_03691.jpg)
This was the back-up plan had the tool not worked. It did quite well so I'm happy as is. I tried Keith's method but couldn't master the technique with a #11 blade, with this new tool it worked very well. I'll be watching closely to see if you master the PE ones, I'd like to learn that trick!
Cheers,
Lance
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nice. When I get there, I'll be sure to share. May be a while though - still working on the cockpit :-)
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Lance,
Excellent works with the lozenge decals and rib tapes my old friend. Impressive job on the louvres too,very clean and sharp.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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Very nice work Lance. Your lozenge looks superb and I especially like your burnished brass louvres. And now I see that I'll have to look into that RB Production's Scribe-R. It looks like it could be handy.
.........lots of potential to miss something obvious or forget "the plan"!!
Plan? We're supposed to have a plan?? I just knew you guys were holding out on me! ;D
Cheers,
Chris
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P....P...Plan :o
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G'day, Lance.
That's beautiful work, mate. The cockpit's looking good, but I'm really impressed by the engine. It reminds me of a Series 2a Land Rover I had in the army- the engine had the same "age spots" on the block and rocker covers from spilled oil and leaks, and no amount of scrubbing would get them off. When I saw yours I could smell that engine again. What technique did you use for that? I'll be getting some of RBMotion's spark plugs- thanks for the tip.
The RB scriber has become one of my favourite tools as well, consigning my "classic" scribers to the tool box. Try the saw blades he does as well- they make cutting small parts off the sprue, or control surfaces from a wing, very easy.
Cheers.
Dal
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Lovely work Lance - the work on the Louvre's is inspiring, as is the rest of this bird :)
....It reminds me of a Series 2a Land Rover I had in the army- the engine had the same "age spots" on the block and rocker covers from spilled oil and leaks, and no amount of scrubbing would get them off....
My old CSM wouldn't have taken that as an excuse!! ;D
Andrew
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Andrew, neither did I when I reached the far-from-dizzying heights! ;D
The ASM at the time was a little more laid back- if the engine could be clearly seen, preferably within the engine bay (you'll know what I mean about that), he was happy. Octopus Chunder WKSP was a bit different- we had to clean thoroughly, patch paint and then wipe over the paint with deezo before we could go home after an EX. He'd even get under and look for dirt around the diff plugs, ball joints and on top of the chassis frames. When we got the 110 GMV's I missed my old beast- for about 33 microseconds.
Lance has nailed a well-used engine- those age spots and the overall grunge look took me back to trying to get that old 'Rover clean enough to escape.
Dal.
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Dal,
The "mess" on the engine was done with thinned down Tamiya "Smoke" (X-19) Since it leaves a gloss finish, even when thinned, I followed with a very thin light grey "wash", hand brushed in the direction gravity would take it "at rest" and once I got the "blended" effect I stopped. Although I truly admire the skills of those who build "clean" or nearly so subjects I much prefer the real used, weathered, worn and dirty effect. This, in my own admission, is due just as much to the convenience of covering up the odd "gaff" as well!
This will be my first effort to hopefully include an open engine compartment so I put a whole lot more time into the engine. The WNW Mercedes lends itself to display and with the Albie design all but the bottom 20% is in open view.
Cheers,
Lance
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A quick update, life's been interfering with progress on this one so she's going very slow.
I have completed the "over-decalling" of all the fabric components with Microsculpt's "1/48 Woven Fabric Texture" decals. I've read many comments, all favorable, on it's application to 1/32 projects and must admit I like the effect a lot. Although very delicate I got good results using Microset to smooth it down and particularly to finish the edges and curves. Next comes a few top coats of Modelmaster Clear Acryl Flat and then I'll be trying out Bud's (Coyote Magic) pastel highlighting/shading technique.
A few shots to illustrate the Microsculpt effect:
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n583/lcarroll1/IMG_1644.jpg)
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n583/lcarroll1/IMG_1646.jpg)
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n583/lcarroll1/IMG_1647.jpg)
Also got the base coat (Tamiya Nato Black XF-67, I really like the colour as it's got a pronounced grey tone) on the fuselage after applying hairspray where it will get "chipped" and getting the over-painted fuselage crosses on. The crosses showed through well, now I need to get working on some tonal contrast between panels; I'm open to any and all advice and suggestions on this as this is my first attempt at an overall black finish. The dust etc is of course since cleaned off.......drat that Macro camera setting!
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n583/lcarroll1/IMG_1650.jpg)
I should have a few days to devote to this project this week however it's got to be the slowest Build I've ever done, and I'm already thinking about which resident of the stash is "On First".
Cheers,
Lance
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Looks very good Lance. In particular, that woven effect lozenge is extremely realistic looking.
Cheers,
Chris
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looks nice, esp the shot of the rudder.
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Lance, the fabric decals look great on the lozenge! I used them a couple years ago on Roden's DH-2. I liked the effect, but on a solid color like PC-10 and especially CDL, they really needed to be toned down a lot after they were on. I figured at the time that they would be spectacular over lozenge, but these are the first pictures I've seen if it.
Well done!
Mike
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Mike,
I'm sold on it as well. It looks best on the lighter lower lozenge however I find the WNW upper version a little dark, it will need some toning for sure which I hope doesn't cover the fabric effect. More photos once I start down that path.
Cheers,
Lance
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The next step has been completed with the shading of the flying surfaces in preparation for the final top coat.
All were given two coats of Model Master Acryl Flat to provide surface adhesion for the dry pastels used. After allowing 48 hours drying time Tamiya tape strips were used to mask the rib locations. I only had black as an option; my pastel "Beginner's Set" is limited. I'm very happy with the results on all the upper (darker) surfaces. The chalk stick was sanded to provide a powder, applied with a make-up applicator donated by the Mrs. and also "Q Tips", the North American version of cotton buds. The make-up brush proved perfect to remove excess and collect the "droppings" for re-use.
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n583/lcarroll1/IMG_1651.jpg)
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n583/lcarroll1/IMG_1654.jpg)
The tapes were then carefully removed pulling them back onto themselves (As Bud, who provided this method, stated) Only two tiny spots started to "lift" the decals along an edge, careful shifting to pulling from the opposite direction saved the day!
And the results to tops and bottoms after the tape removal. The bottom, light blue, surfaces are too heavy IMHO, a grey would have worked much better. I'll be looking for several greys on my next shopping trip to the big City for sure.
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n583/lcarroll1/IMG_1655.jpg)
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n583/lcarroll1/IMG_1659.jpg)
The bottom surface....
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n583/lcarroll1/IMG_1663.jpg)
And the rest of the bits:
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n583/lcarroll1/IMG_1664.jpg)
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n583/lcarroll1/IMG_1665.jpg)
All parts were rubbed down with a soft dry cloth after further blending with Q-Tips and will now recieve a coat of Acryl Semi-Gloss to seal the surfaces. In retrospect I should have applied the crosses to the bottoms of the lower wings, I'll have to repeat a little of the process once they are on.
Now, on to that all black fuselage. Any ideas/hints on how to get some tonal variation on the presently uniform black paint job
would be most welcome...................?!?! ??? :-\
Cheers,
Lance
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Great looking weathering. For the black variation I would simply add solid black to the NATO black or a dark blue, dark green to the black. Adding white to the NATO black might make it too grey.
Steve
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Looks like you picked up the hang of pastel weathering right off the get-go Lance. Well done!
Cheers,
Chris
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Looks great!
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Lance,
Beautiful work with the weathering my old friend. I'm highly impresses with your use of the textured overlay on the lozenge decals. Looking forward to seeing what you do with the black fuselage.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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Another update at last. This is definitely progressing slowly, too many interuptions to the building schedule makes Lance a very dull and frustrated little man!
I have added the extra plumbing for the fuel system, installed the Merc. and oil tank, finished the upper wing with the exception of replacing the pressure venturi on the pressure tank, and finally finished the fuselage painting (contrasting blacks and a lot of soft pastel work to provide panel demarcation and different tones) The lower wings and empennage components are dry fitted at this point.
First, the engine compartment with the added fuel lines.
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n583/lcarroll1/IMG_1676.jpg)
......and with the engine and oil tank installed (still need to "de-fuzz and oil wash the lines)
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n583/lcarroll1/IMG_1686.jpg)
The upper wing with Radiator installed. I'll be adding the shutter linkage and control (already built) later. Also managed to break off and lose the venturi on the radiator pressure tank, have another made and ready for later. The pressure line to the tank directly from the radiator was an add on.
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n583/lcarroll1/IMG_1683.jpg)
I masked the various panels with Tamiya tape to spray a different tone of black on alternate panels for contrast using dark brown to varying amounts to create a less monotone black effect.
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n583/lcarroll1/IMG_1680.jpg)
Next came a final coat of Semi Gloss Acrylic Clear (Modelmaster) and after 48 hours a lot of soft pastel work on the panel lines and contrasting panels using various mixes of grey and lots of buffing. The chipping was done with the Hairspray technique and some dry brushing, more to follow on a few of the scratches I missed!
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n583/lcarroll1/IMG_1688.jpg)
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n583/lcarroll1/IMG_1692.jpg)
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n583/lcarroll1/IMG_1691.jpg)
Next I hope to do a few minor repairs, set the lower wings and mount the upper, then it's a day or so of rigging. Unfortunately I have to run off to work for 6-7 days so yet another interuption in the build schedule!
Almost can see the end, wonderful kit but not my best work due to the "on again/off again" nature of the build. Thanks for looking, all and any comments or suggestions most welcome!
Cheers,
Lance
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looks really nice Lance!
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Excellent progress Lance, you have mastered the weathering technique very well, it is a really impressive result. Your work on the engine is superb resulting in a very realistic looking engine, and the cockpit detailing is brilliant, extremely well done. I like the textured decals, gives a very nice fabric "feel" to the surfaces, I have yet to use these particular decals but like you, all I have heard is good reports. I'm looking forward to seeing your next update, this is going to be a very impressive model once completed.
Des.
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Seconds all that Des said. ;)
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Of any single colour paint scheme, I believe that black is the most difficult one to execute effectively and you're doing an excellent job with this Lance. It doesn't matter a whit that life has gotten in the way at times and progress hasn't been as rapid as you'd like. The results you're achieving are worth waiting for so take your time and don't hurry any of it. She's looking good!
Cheers,
Chris
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Lance, that's just beautiful. The fabric effect decals have worked very well and you've got the weathering on the black fuselage just right.
I sympathise with your frustration at interruptions, mate, but it hasn't had any effect on the quality of your work.
Dal.
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Thanks so much all of you for the positive feedback. I was beginning to lose faith in the results, we all tend to be our own worst critics and I have recently had a thought that I am going too far to the worn and dirty side on this one. Your comments, given the tremendous amount of exceptional skills you all illustrate in your projects, are heartening and inspirational to say the very least!
I recall a serious conversation (over several or a half dozen pints) I had with Tom Morgan (Doctor Morgan) at the Western Canadian Regionals this year. Tom was philosophising on the various finishes we see from the super clean to the well worn and dirty; to quote him more or less he said "look closely at the photos........they were bloody filthy shortly after going into service and got more so". The examples I saw of his work were pristine however his armor subjects in which he is world class as well went to the other extreme. Lots of food for thought from a real artist however I like them all!
Thanks again for the encouraging replies, I'll get back at her in a few days with a little more confidence and vigor.
Cheers,
Lance
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Lovely job Lance, don't loose faith my friend, the end result will be superb.
Cheers
Pete.
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Nice! I have to try that pastel method. I keep spraying with paint but this seems much more controlled. ;) Excellent!
Dan
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I think what you did with the black fuse has turned out to be the unsung hero of the build, Lance. I'm really, really impressed with what a subtle, but important effect it turned out to be. Great extra depth. Well done, and well worth the delays.
Lindsay
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Thanks Lindsay. I hope to get a few hours later today, mired down in the rigging as I'm trying a new approach on this one. Rather then going "eyelet to eyelet" with brass tubes slid into each eyelet position I'm adding another eyelet to each end of the wires. (read this on someone's build thread and liked the results) Makes for crossed eyes and slow progress. Hard to describe however I'll be posting a few photos shortly to illustrate.
Cheers,
Lance
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I have not seen the rigging attachment method you speak of Lance, I am very interested in seeing the results. Keep up the good work, you bird is looking excellent.
Des.
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I have not seen the rigging attachment method you speak of Lance, I am very interested in seeing the results. Keep up the good work, you bird is looking excellent.
Des.
Des,
No photos to follow as the `new technique`was a monumental failure, at least when used by me. Briefly, I wanted to use brass tubes with eyelets pre attached in the sequence:
Eyelet mounted in wing(as per normal) Attach brass tube (with very thin mono) with eyelet pre inserted and glued, then mono rigging material attached and on to the far end to repeat. Briefly, it looked too `busy`and cluttered to my eye so off it all came at the expense of a full day`s work. No damage done, lessons learned, and onward and upwards as the sayiing goes.
Hopefully I`ll catch up tomorrow, will get some photos posted once the upper wing`s on and rigging in place.
Cheers,
Lance
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Yes please to more photo's, Lance. I'd also like to see you're rigging experiment. Would you mind posting a quick sketch?
Cheers.
Dal.
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Yes please to more photo's, Lance. I'd also like to see you're rigging experiment. Would you mind posting a quick sketch?
Cheers.
Dal.
Dal,
I'll take a quick photo or two; I was clever enough to make a dozen assemblies (took a fair amount of time) which I hope to use elsewhere. Will post them by end of day...........
Cheers,
Lance
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Wel never never try a new method, that way you learn and develop Lance. But if you rarent happy wityh he results I can understand that totally.
My usual method is mounting point-eyelet<>eyelet (I link one into another while making them) 3mm brass .5 tube with eyelet glued in both ends then a short 1mm or so length of tube through which the actual rigging material is threaded and tensioned, tight and is secured with an eyelet too at the remote end and adjustment is made at the turnbuckle end.
I find this method gives greater movement of the turnbuckle assy itself and adds interest without being too obtrusive.
Keith
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Keith,
I tried your method of joining eyelets by constructing one to capture the other. I just could not get other then a "too large" eyelet; I make a lot of my own however forming one around the other proved too large. Possibly my fingers are too large, eyes see "too small" (even with the optivisor it was a daunting task) or a combo of both.
I then tried your illustrated method Chris however I inserted and CA'd a very fine mono (Dai-Riki Size 7X .004") in the wing end of the tube/buckle in lieu of the second eyelet and then tied and CA'd onto the wing mounted eyelet. In this case I found it very difficult to tie in to the eyelet without a gap between the two I had previously tried one wire with the two eyelets per the diagram and may try it again on another build. In the end I found it too "busy" for my tastes, too much hardware visible. I removed it all and went with my standard of "structure, eyelet inserted, tie and CA the mono and then slide the brass tube down to the eyelet and CA with a tiny shot of ultra thin.
Fortunately all the foregoing was attached to the lower wings only as prep for the mounting of the upper wing and then final tie in of the interplane wires.
Now I've no doubt totally confused all.......................
Cheers,
Lance
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No update photos today, lots of progress accomplished in the last two days as I try (not a bloody hope!!) to make the 31 August deadline of a Group Built this one's entered in elsewhere. If I had one free day I'd be comfortable however a Funeral tomorrow followed by 6 straight work days means life has stepped into the path of that plan!
I have the engine completely plumbed now, Radiator shutter controls on, a scratch built mirror that is really a mirror, upper wing installed, and rigging started.
As much as I believe I am followed around by a very dark black ugly cloud I had a stroke of luck today that I really must share:
After installing the upper wing I decided to clean up the desk a bit before starting the rigging. I had the Albatros in my wood box/cradle which I support my models in progress and pushed it to the very back of the desk. As I continued the large and heavy halogen lamp I have mounted to the upper case of the roll top desk snapped it's mount and crashed down on top of everything, the Albie got only a glancing blow and was undamaged. Had I not pushed it back it would have been completely crushed.
Needless to say the lamp will be used elsewhere, I'll be shopping for something a little less risky!
Cheers,
Lance :o
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Keith,
I tried your method of joining eyelets by constructing one to capture the other. I just could not get other then a "too large" eyelet; I make a lot of my own however forming one around the other proved too large. Possibly my fingers are too large, eyes see "too small" (even with the optivisor it was a daunting task) or a combo of both.
I then tried your illustrated method Chris however I inserted and CA'd a very fine mono (Dai-Riki Size 7X .004") in the wing end of the tube/buckle in lieu of the second eyelet and then tied and CA'd onto the wing mounted eyelet. In this case I found it very difficult to tie in to the eyelet without a gap between the two I had previously tried one wire with the two eyelets per the diagram and may try it again on another build. In the end I found it too "busy" for my tastes, too much hardware visible. I removed it all and went with my standard of "structure, eyelet inserted, tie and CA the mono and then slide the brass tube down to the eyelet and CA with a tiny shot of ultra thin.
Fortunately all the foregoing was attached to the lower wings only as prep for the mounting of the upper wing and then final tie in of the interplane wires.
Now I've no doubt totally confused all.......................
Cheers,
Lance
If I may...
Usually I am using an eyelet and a tube (from Bob's buckles set, 0.3 mm inner diameter) with a monofilament fishing line (0.12 mm diameter) passed thrice through it. The latter after tightening and trimming the excess line yields a very fine (IMHO) turnbuckle.
(http://i710.photobucket.com/albums/ww109/PrzemoLPP/Spad7/spad7106.jpg)
(http://i710.photobucket.com/albums/ww109/PrzemoLPP/Spad7/spad7107.jpg)
(http://i710.photobucket.com/albums/ww109/PrzemoLPP/Spad7/spad7111.jpg)
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Bingo!
Nice pics, PrzemoL! ;)
BVB
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Przemol, von Buckle,
One of life's great mysterys to me is how to get monofil (I've tried all sizes down to 7X Dai-Riki (.004" which I'd say must be close to 0.10mm as .005" equals 0.13mm) back through one of the tubes even a second time. (I use the Bob's Buckles stuff as well) Obviously the thicker line is too large for the brass tube to accomodate and, in my experience, the thinner you go the more difficult to push back through, too flexible. I like the results in the foregoing by Prez however I must be missing something in my attempts.
As a post script "von Need More Buckles", an order will follow shortly as I was unsuccesful at retrieving all but a few of the estimated 174 loops and tubes (perhaps only a slight exageration) that I "tweezer-pulted" into the gaping maw of the dreaded Floor Monster"! :( :o
Cheers,
Lance
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A picture is worth a thousand words and now I understand how this style of turnbuckle is constructed. I can see how it would be useful too. I'll have to give this a try myself.
Cheers,
Chris
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Lance, try pre-drilling the tube with a 0.3mm drill bit. Then cut the end of the line at 45 degree angle to form a sharp tip. With these you should be able to pass the line thrice without any fuss.
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Lance, try pre-drilling the tube with a 0.3mm drill bit. Then cut the end of the line at 45 degree angle to form a sharp tip. With these you should be able to pass the line thrice without any fuss.
Bingo! x2 ;D
A drill bit or fine reamer will do the trick!
Good luck!
Von Buckle
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Add a "bingo!" from me, PrzemoL, that's a fantastic tip.
Dal.
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von B & Przemol,
Thanks for the hints; I need to do some experimenting with this real soon. I do the 45 degree sharp end thing however have not tried cleaning, reaming, nor touching up the inside "bore" of the tubes. Probably time I did so...
Cheers,
Lance
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Lance,
I have been experimenting and came up with this idea, it is two eyelets interlooped (if that's a word), so one end fits into the turnbuckle while the other end fits into the wing giving a very neat connection of the turnbuckle to the wing. This was the first one I made and it was quite easy to do, only took a few minutes. I don't know if this is what you are after but I will be using this technique for my builds.
Des.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-4PZ5ExVo4Yk/UEFOxOtcuwI/AAAAAAAABIs/4KnS7bAG5wc/s800/double%2520eyelet%2520x%25201.jpg)
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Verrrry interesting...
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Nice one, Des!
I've been making 'twins' :D for a while now mainly as one off orders. Not sure If there is a ready market for them... What do you think?
Eye Eye!
;) ;)
(http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii626/d4rkgimp/eye-eye.jpg)
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I didn't realise you were already making the twins Bob, great idea. Yes, I believe there would be a market for them, there seems to be a trend towards this idea for mounting turnbuckles to the wing, a very simple yet affective way to connect a turnbuckle. I think trying to tie two eyelets together with mono is a little messy and would not look as good. Test the market Bob and see what the reaction is.
Des.
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Des or Bob,
Do either of you have a picture illustrating the installation of a twin?
I'm also a little fuzzy on how you'd loop the second eyelet into the first. I understand that you would initially place the unwrapped wire through the first eyelet, but then how do you get it around your drill bit without crushing the first eyelet?
Maybe I'm over thinking this one...
Lindsay
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Des, that's how I made the turnbuckles on the Pfalz. However I put the eyes into the tube first (using BvB's buckles and eyes that I'd bought at first, then making some of my own when I ran short) and then formed the eye that I'd glue into the wing, as I found it was easier then forming two eyes and trying to put one into the tube. You can see them on the close of the tail on my Pfalz build.
I thought it was the usual technique to use?
Dal
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Lindsay, there's a pic of the tail on my Pfalz that shows the turnbuckles done that way. I haven't had any problems crushing the eye in the turnbuckle since I started putting them in before forming the third one. There's enough weight with the turnbuckle assembled for that to hang down, out of the way, and that makes the job very easy.
Dal
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Lindsay - here are some pictures of the double eyelets fitted to a wing (mock-up) with turnbuckle. It's a very simple process to make the double eyelets and crushing the first eyelet is not an issue. I'm sure there are other techniques out there but this one works well for me, I can knock out a double eyelet in about two minutes. The eye of the eyelet is 0.3mm, the wire is 0.13mm copper, the turnbuckle is 0.5mm brass tube with a 0.33mm internal diameter and the mono is 0.12mm.
Des.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-qmcXZe_gU_Q/UEFMXKMVdKI/AAAAAAAABHc/h5CPz3wvHZA/s799/double%2520eyelet%2520x%25204.jpg)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-N_SffNFdpa0/UEFMa6yJyxI/AAAAAAAABHw/hMASDAGbrAs/s799/double%2520eyelet%2520x%25205.jpg)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-7AHJ-KGYad0/UEFMkSQ9PTI/AAAAAAAABIY/_gSjmhBjdyc/s720/double%2520eyelet%2520x%25207.jpg)
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Looks great Des. For von Buckle....... can you qoute a price on the "Doubles in 1/32 Scale and I'll add them to my imminent order; I've tried the "knit your own" on these so called "Doubles ' and failed miserably. This is, in the end, where I was trying to get to "eyelet into wing, second eyelet connected to first and then into tube, then eyelet with simulated wire (MONO) and on to the next turnbuckle."
Thanks all for getting this to the almost answered/resolved point!
Cheers,
Lance
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Thats the way I was trying to explain in my muddled way, personally I find it gives the most life like look and adds just a little extra detail to a build. .
Exellently shown though makes it far easier to understand.
Keith
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Des and Dal, thanks for the explanation; very helpful.
Lance, sorry for stepping on your thread; back to the build!
LT
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Des and Dal, thanks for the explanation; very helpful.
Lance, sorry for stepping on your thread; back to the build!
LT
Lindsay,
No problem! I think I finally understand and can actually get there from here at last! Too late for this build however, like all of you out there, I'll definitely incoporate this technique into my next attempt at the "perfect" model.\
Cheers,
Lance
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Lance,
Did you receive my message? Check your inbox!
BVB ;)
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Yes von B and replied yesterday, let me know if you got mine, and Thanks!
Cheers,
Lance
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No message in my inbox on here :-\
Try again!
BVB
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Des or Bob,
Do either of you have a picture illustrating the installation of a twin?
I'm also a little fuzzy on how you'd loop the second eyelet into the first. I understand that you would initially place the unwrapped wire through the first eyelet, but then how do you get it around your drill bit without crushing the first eyelet?
Maybe I'm over thinking this one...
Lindsay
Lindsay instead of using a drill bit I use a small cut down fish hook (with barb snipped off of course) epoxied in a length of thick sprue for a handle, I hold the wire (I use Stainless braided shower hose wire) in pliers and spin the tool to make the eyelet, its easy enough to make one eyelet, pop it on the second bit of wire after making a U shape and trapping it when you spin up the second eyelet. Just take care to keep the eyelet close to the fishhook or it gets caught up in the twist.
Also I tend to drill just the end of my brass tube out to .35 or .4mm as it makes inserting the eyelet easier
Stainless stel is stronger, I can wind it tight and get some resemblance to screwthreads too... totally by chance.
Hope this helps someone
Maybe a good subject to run a tab on Des, varying techniques for various scales.
Keith
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These double eyelets do seem to add just a bit more pizazz to a turnbuckle and I think I'll incorporate them in my next build. It's tips like these that make this forum so useful.
Cheers,
Chris
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No message in my inbox on here :-\
Try again!
BVB
Bob,
??? I'll re-check. Sent it from my personal account to your address (REPLY). I'll check and try again.
Cheers,
Lance
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Time for another (and Final) update. I completed her yesterday. I'll be taking a few more (hopefully better) photos in the next couple of days and will submit them on Completed Models to wrap this one up.
Since the last entry I finished off the engine area and the cowling panels (3 of 4 will be left "off/open") and added the last of the plumbing. Also installed the guns, added a scratch built radiator shutter control lever and also more detail to the pressure tank on the top. Guns are "Master" Spandaus, an excellent product. Last in this area the rad lines were installed, the larger of which I had to build after breaking the original, and I installed the 4 aileron control cables from the decking to the upper wing, the latter operation by "braile". (nasty operation but in the end I removed the PE "clip" on the top wing cockpit cutout, drilled down through the wing and inserted the wires, and then replaced the metal fairing and mirror on the wing)
Some shots of the forward section.......cover your eyes, Des and Jamo, I havn't had time to get into the Photo Tutorial!
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n583/lcarroll1/IMG_1712.jpg)
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n583/lcarroll1/IMG_1717.jpg)
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n583/lcarroll1/IMG_1729.jpg)
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n583/lcarroll1/IMG_1731.jpg)
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n583/lcarroll1/IMG_1732.jpg)
The rigging was completed using 0.13mm fishing line and guitar wire for the elevator cables. The paint used was Mr Metal Colour Stainless, some darkened with Dark Iron and the hardware is Bob von I make perfect Buckles excellent products.
In keeping with my choice to go max. weathering and worn look I added some more pastels/pigments, some washes, and chipping to the wheel covers.
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n583/lcarroll1/IMG_1708.jpg)
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n583/lcarroll1/IMG_1709.jpg)
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n583/lcarroll1/IMG_1712.jpg)
The last item was the three engine compartment access doors from the Eduard DIII Set, left open, stained, and chipped.
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n583/lcarroll1/IMG_1727.jpg)
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n583/lcarroll1/IMG_1718.jpg)
So here are a few overall views; the Albatross Purple appears more blue then in real life and I maximised the weathering and worn look as I like the effect.(I really don't seem to have the skills and steadiness to go for a crisp "clean" build any more regardless, easier to hide the "gaffs" this way!!)
OOps, my Photobucket just locked up, back with Part 2 once I hopefully clear this up!
Cheers,
Lance
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Just to complete this "Completed" Thread:
A couple of overall shots................
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n583/lcarroll1/IMG_1734.jpg)
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n583/lcarroll1/IMG_1716.jpg)
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n583/lcarroll1/IMG_1715.jpg)
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n583/lcarroll1/IMG_1735.jpg)
And the last one:
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n583/lcarroll1/IMG_1725.jpg)
As I said earlier, I'll try to get a few more better shots and enter them in the Completed Models Section. (and a shot of the Fuel Drain Line in the starboard wing root area for Keith!) Any and all comments and suggestions most welcome. Final verdict: a really beautifully engineered Kit and a joy to build.
Cheers,
Lance
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In a word Lance - Stunning - I really like the worn look you have created, it suits the aeroplane beautifully, and your engine is superb, an excellent result.
Des.
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Very very nice!! Congrats!
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Great weathering Lance, she looks suitably worn. Excellently done ;)
Andrew
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Des, The word "stunning" and "superb" coming from someone of your talent mean a great deal to me.......thanks for the vote of confidence.
Uncle Tony and Andrew, as above and Thanks for the positive feedback. Think I'll start planning another build!
Cheers,
Lance
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I must echo what Des has already written - Stunning!
A pleasure to behold - well done, Lance!
BVB
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BVB,
Thank you kind Sir! There is a bit of your handiwork/product in this one. (as with most)
Cheers,
Lance
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Well done Lance. Top drawer all around. Your weathering looks convincingly real and I'm envious of the way your rib shading turned out. Two thumbs up!
Cheers,
Chris
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Lance,
She's absolutely stunning my old friend. Outstanding weathering and post shading of her wings. No doubt about it First Class craftsmanship and skills. Well Done my old friend!
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
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Thanks for the kind words, Gents. The post shading technique was a first try for me, compliments of a Member here and forwarded in detail by Chris. Just another reason I'm "real happy to be here" in this Forum.
Cheers,
Lance
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Very nice!
Steve