forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Under Construction => Topic started by: Umlaufmotor on November 11, 2023, 04:43:54 AM
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A few years ago I built a whale, a Roland C.IIa, for a fellow model builder.
Here is the link to the finished model in this forum:
https://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=13147.0
Some time ago I had the opportunity to acquire a WNW Roland kit from an estate.
The kit had not yet been started by the original owner, but he had already separated many parts from the casting frames.
To cut a long story short, on a whim I started to clean and sort the separated parts.
Sorting turned into painting, painting turned into gluing - so I'm building another whale, but this time for myself.
The model represents a Roland C.IIa, which was stationed at Schusta 6 in the spring of 1917. The identification was a white "2" on a black background on the fin. The scheme was very similar to the white "7" which can be made from the original kit.
(https://up.picr.de/46609612jr.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/46609611og.jpg)
Here is the current built-status:
(https://up.picr.de/46609610ge.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/46609608cg.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/46609607fq.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/46609606fl.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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As you can see in the previous pictures, some cables, levers and rods from the levers to the engine etc. were additionally mounted in the fuselage.
Here are some more pictures.
The pictures were taken under the table lamp, some colors appear less shiny in daylight and therefore look more realistic.
(https://up.picr.de/46609609jf.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/46609605rq.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/46609604yd.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/46609603zz.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/46609601dw.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/46609600lp.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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"Sorting turned into painting..."
Funny how that happens, isn't it, Bertl? Absolutely beautiful paintwork, those wobble pumps look like you turned them out of brass. I was able to find the WnW Hannover kit recently, but sadly I missed the boat on the Walfisch :(
Dutch
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This is a real treat! Great start.
Cheers, Tom
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Lovely work so far. ;D
Paul
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Bertl is back! That's promising a lot of fun watching the build-thread ahead!
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Superb detailing, Bertl
Sandy
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Truly gorgeous wear-and-tear effect. how did you achieve the paint-worn-wood flooring?
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The Master has returned!
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Servus Bertl !
Another excellent piece of work! Nice to have you back in the forum 👍
Jörg
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@all
Thank you very much for your kind comments.
I haven't really been away from the forum for the last 12 or 13 months, just had a lot of other things on my plate.
From time to time I was present "incognito" as a silent reader and enjoyer of the building reports.
The coloring of the two fuselage insides and the floor began with a primer coat of Gunze/Hobby color "Radome".
Then some light shading and clouds in the fuselage with heavily thinned Tamiya "white" and also some darkened white.
Then paint with Tamiya XF-66 "light gray".
As soon as the paint was dry, I removed the light gray paint with a very stiff-haired brush - but only in places that could be caused by the touch of the pilot's/observer's hands.
So behind levers or on the Morse code machine, for example.
(https://up.picr.de/46616459rg.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/46616469bo.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/46616468ol.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/46616467wx.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
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Almost the same procedure was used on the corridor floor in terms of the paint structure, except that some areas were pre-shaded with Tamiya "Smog" and also a little bit yellow.
I would also like to mention that the layers of the floor boards were engraved on the lowest floor by the observer and some nails/screws were indicated by drilling holes in all the floors.
(https://up.picr.de/46616463nt.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/46616462vt.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/46616461wm.jpg)
The wood grain was painted with oil paints "Sienna raw", a little "English red light" and minimal "Sienna burnt".
(https://up.picr.de/46616466jw.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/46616465lw.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/46616464jn.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
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After the oil paint had dried, chipping fluid from Ammo MIG was applied.
As soon as the chipping fluid had dried, the hull bottoms were painted with Tamiya XF-66 "light gray". After drying, treated with water and a stiff-haired brush.
Weathering mostly with heavily diluted dark oil paint.
(https://up.picr.de/46616474lj.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/46616473gu.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/46616471pz.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/46616489lx.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/46616488pv.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/46616487iq.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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The main tank under the pilot's seat as well as the reserve tank behind the pilot were painted with Mr.Metalcolor "brass", then treated with chipping fluid and Gunze RLM02 on top.
The residue of the spilled fuel on the reserve tank was painted with dark oil paint and Tamiya "Smog".
(https://up.picr.de/46617473bs.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/46616476hu.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/46616475ya.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/46617475zv.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/46617573mr.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/46617571lp.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Metal polishing paint from Mr. Metallcolor was also used for the cooling water expansion tank and the ammunition housing.
The procedure is to first paint with the base color “Aluminium” and then apply some “Stainless” and “Iron” with a short brush.
(https://up.picr.de/46616480hs.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/46616479vh.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/46616482mc.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Beautiful work Bertl. I'll be following your build closely as I am constructing the earlier version of this bird.
Mike
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Your usual magic!
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Wow! Thank you so much for sharing your techniques. I’m saving this post for future reference.
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My jaw was open and I was shaking my head in amazement...wow, Bertl. Thank you for sharing your techniques. My mind can't wrap itself around doing these myself.
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Wow, all absolutely stunning!
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@all
Thank you very much.
I'm happy if I can inspire one or the other with different techniques.
I feel the same way myself when I read through the various construction reports.
Back to the Walfish:
This is part #G52 from WNW.
This first aid kit was mounted in the observer's compartment on the right.
The narrow strap is a remnant from the HGW belts.
The buckle was bent from 0.2mm copper wire which was heated over a candle flame - thus it loses its copper shine and does not need to be painted.
(https://up.picr.de/46630759mv.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/46630758ow.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
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The radio was also painted in two different layers of paint.
First in RLM02 from Gunze and then with RLM02 from Tamiya, which is slightly darker.
The three switches are painted with Gunze Rust Brown.
After the paints had dried well, the radio was gently treated with steel wool and fine sandpaper - the lighter Gunze RLM02 is thus shown as a slightly aged and scratched surface.
Remaining weathering with dark oil paint (there was not much to do here) 8)
Sealed with matt clear varnish from Tamiya.
(https://up.picr.de/46630733bg.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/46630732jx.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/46630731aj.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
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Some larger instruments are installed on the model, the fuel gauge to the left and right of the pilot and the rev counter on the instrument panel.
The dials are each represented by decals.
As a gimmick, punched-out glasses made of thin transparent packaging material were used for these instruments.
The glasses were glued in with "Acrylic Water Texture" from Vallejo.
This is quite simple, a small drop of it is applied to the dial with the tip of a toothpick and then the die-cut glass is placed on top and carefully pressed on.
But as I said, it's just a gimmick - it also works without glass.
(https://up.picr.de/46630723oz.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/46630722ko.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/46630724gz.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/46630725io.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/46630726qo.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/46630727sg.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
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My current work is painting the axial propeller.
As usual, the prop was painted with Gunze "Radome", then sealed with clear matt from Tamiya.
The wood grain is painted on with colored pencils.
I only paint one side of a propeller blade at a time, then seal the painted wood grain with matt varnish.
Then the next propeller blade and so on.
(https://up.picr.de/46630716up.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/46630711hm.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/46630715ue.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/46630714at.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/46630713fn.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/46630712vg.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Painting the propellers with colored pencils is a relatively time-consuming process, but I have had very good experiences with it over the years.
Mask the propeller, paint it with acrylic paint, unmask it, etc. - It's all too much work for me.
The advantage of painting with colored pencils is that the wood grain can be very easily adapted to the original in the color gradient and if a color stroke actually goes wrong, just go over it with an eraser and the mistake is corrected.
Here is a small selection of the wooden propellers painted with colored pencils over the years.
(https://up.picr.de/46631009mp.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/46631001qx.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/46631002wr.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/46630985ju.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/46630994vi.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/46630983qz.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Your usual meticulous approach... just great!
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Bertl,
Great work yet again. Can you tell us the make and colours of the pencils you use please.
Mike
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@MikeH
Hi Mike,
The exact name of the colored pencils I use is "SV Classic Colour" from Faber-Castell.
The pencils cost a maximum 1- 1.50 euros each.
In most cases, the four colors No.: 380 (walnut brown), No.: 399 (black), No.: 383 (light brown) and No.: 314 (orange) are enough for me to paint the propellers.
It is important that the surface MUST be primed matt, otherwise the colors will not adhere.
Servus
Bertl
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Thanks a lot Bertl that's great, I can buy those in the UK, so I'll give it a try. Like you, the painting, masking and repainting method take forever and I need a quicker way of doing it.
Cheers,
Mike
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Magnificent work! I like how the pencils capture the wood grain.
Cheers, Tom
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Blown away once more!
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You are posting updates faster than I can read Bertl...
Beautiful work on the propeller and the instrument dial. I am certainly going to steal your method of attaching the glass with Vallejo acrylic water texture.
Great cockpit details, makes my jaw drop over and over again.
Willem
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This is all fabulous work, very inspiring.
The exact name of the colored pencils I use is "SV Classic Colour" from Faber-Castell.
The pencils cost a maximum 1- 1.50 euros each.
In most cases, the four colors No.: 380 (walnut brown), No.: 399 (black), No.: 383 (light brown) and No.: 314 (orange) are enough for me to paint the propellers.
It is important that the surface MUST be primed matt, otherwise the colors will not adhere.
Thanks for this. I paint laminations by hand with oils which is very time consuming and requires a lot of correction as you go. I get good results IMO but it's too hard if you want to paint more than a few laminations or work on a four-bladed Wotan prop (as I tried recently). I had a quick attempt with coloured pencils and you have now shown me that I should try again with this technique because your results are stunning.
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Thank you so much for sharing your technique and pencils of choice, Bertl - I've made an entry in my cellphone's "Modelling tips" note so I can get some for myself! What beautiful results!
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Holy cow...the attention to detail is just lovely. World Class!
Dan
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@all
Again, thank you very much for your comments.
I think there are many different ways to achieve a good result.
As I said, for my needs (as high quality as possible, close to the original with as little effort as possible), painting with colored pencils is best.
I didn't put much effort into the current propeller, I'm sure I could have done better - but I wanted to finish it as quickly as possible.
Finally, I sealed it with Tamiya semi-gloss-clear, added two three drops of Tamiya clear-orange and one drop of Tamiya smog.
I'm thinking about going over it again with a very thin coat of raw sienna or burnt sienna oil paint, but I'm actually happy with the result as it is now.
Let's see.
In the last picture you can see the names of the pencils again. I really like using the walnut brown 9201-177, which is also from Faber-Castell but not from the Classic Color line.
Unfortunately, it is no longer possible to tell which line the pencil is from, it has been sharpened too often and the lettering is no longer there.
But no matter which pens are used, always draw the lines from the center outwards towards the propeller tip (or vice versa, both are also possible), NEVER zig-zag or draw circles or similar.
Line by line next to each other - try it, the pens are cheap.
Don't forget the eraser, I also use one from Faber which I sharpen and then cut flat at the front like a screwdriver tip.
This makes it quick and easy to remove incorrectly drawn lines accurately.
But - don't erase too hard, otherwise the matt primer will be rubbed off - then the colors of the pencils will no longer adhere.
(https://up.picr.de/46643479kd.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/46643480jl.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/46643483mm.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/46643481hu.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/46643482mi.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/46643474oe.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
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The first painting steps were also completed on the Orcarina exhaust.
I used Mr. Metalcolor "Dark Iron" for the first coat, then some "Iron", a little "Stainless" and heavily diluted Gunze Rust Red.
The metal polish colors were dabbed on with a very short-haired brush to get a somewhat used, stressed surface.
DO NOT POLISH THE PAINTED SURFACE!
The rust red was applied with an airbrush.
Unfortunately, the colors appear much brighter in the flash than they are in reality.
The thin rim at the top of the outlet was made from a plastic sprue, stretched over a burning candle.
Further painting steps will follow later.
(https://up.picr.de/46643478dm.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/46643477fl.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/46643476mp.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/46643475gl.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Spectacular! Thank you for sharing your practices. Pencils and propellers, huge weathered exhausts, wood from oils, there’s so much I love about this modelling genre.
Cheers, Tom
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Wonderful thread! I have a wide range of colored pencils that I use both for modeling and my illustration & fine art work, and just for the benefit of those of us in the US I should add that I've never seen the Faber-Castell SV pencils on sale here in the States, although their "Polychromos" and "Goldfarber" lines are available at Dick Blick and probably other art-supply outlets. A good brand to try might be Prismacolor's "Premier", the "lead" has a very high pigment/binder ratio and they're available everywhere. Derwent is good too. Stay away from Crayola and the cheaper brands, as they're mostly binder with very little pigment, and generally much harder—besides, the price difference is negligible, as Bertl notes, the best-quality pencils are only about US$2 each.
One thing I'd stay away from for this application are the watercolor pencils like Derwent's "Inktense" and Faber-Castell's "Dürer" lines, as obviously they're soluble not only in water, but also alcohol-based clearcoats as well. They do have a lot of other uses in modeling and weathering, though.
Sorry to ramble on, but I'm a lifelong art-supply addict... :)
Dutch
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@Davos522
Dutch, a very good and interesting statement by an artist who (presumably) works with such pens all the time ;)
@all
You should also keep in mind how many propellers can be painted with these pens, it pays off even if a single pen would cost 5 euros.
But be careful with it, if such pens fall on the floor, the lead inside can break, and when sharpened, the broken piece usually hangs loose and thus unusable in the wooden sheathing.
Back to the propeller.
The painting with the pens is finished, the sealing with matt lacquer, clear orange and smog is done. I couldn't resist applying a wafer-thin layer of raw sienna and very little burnt sienna.
I am very happy with the result.
But, Judge for yourself:
(https://up.picr.de/46651065yo.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/46651064ev.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/46651068xl.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/46651069xr.jpg)
As soon as the oil paint has dried, I'll seal it again with clear varnish and apply the Axial decals and again semi-gloss clear varnish.
Servus
Bertl
Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
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Absolutely beautiful! And it must be so satisfying to create this yourself.
Cheers, Tom
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Thank you for sharing your exhaust painting techniques Bertl, that is something I really need to learn for myself.
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Indistinguishable from real wood! That truly is amazing.
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The combination of pencils and oils on the prop is perfection!
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Thank you very much, Tom, Zac, Tim and Nigel
Let's continue with the wheels, starting with the wheel covers.
First, all four covers are primed with Gunze Sailcolor.
Then a thin layer of chipping fluid, when that is dry again Sailcolor, but this time darkened with a little dark gray.
Then chipping with a little water and a hard brush.
(https://up.picr.de/46670229kf.jpg)
It looks like this afterwards:
(https://up.picr.de/46670230ns.jpg)
The outer covers are sprayed over with diluted Tamiya matt white.
The leather patches are painted with Gunze Rust Red.
The traces of grease that have escaped are pre-painted with highly diluted oil paintand traced with Gunze Oil Color.
(https://up.picr.de/46670228lt.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/46670231oi.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Now to the painting of the wheels.
For this I need two light shades of gray, one Tamiya XF-66 light gray and one Tamiya XF-19 Sky gray
(https://up.picr.de/46670232gv.jpg)
For better handling, both wheels are pushed onto a rolled-up piece of paper and primed with light gray.
This allows me to see the color gradient of the two different shades of gray better when painting than if the gray plastic were not primed.
(https://up.picr.de/46670233aw.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/46670234lz.jpg)
The tires are then painted with sky grey on the sidewalls.
The color difference between the two shades of grey is clearly visible.
(https://up.picr.de/46670235dk.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Now I go back to the light gray and paint the tires exactly from the front.
The paper roll with the wheels on is turned by hand - this results in an even paint job with an exact light/dark demarcation.
The effect is now, that the light gray wheels appear slightly darker on the surface on which they are constantly rolling due to the abrasion.
Sorry, I can't explain it more simply and easily through the translator.
(https://up.picr.de/46670237cr.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/46670239jq.jpg)
The light/dark effect can be seen quite clearly here.
The outer wheel cover is attached to the wheel with a toothpick for testing.
The next step is to weather the wheels with picments, pastel powder or oil paint.
(https://up.picr.de/46670240gs.jpg)
Here you can see the original, the white "2", which is supposed to represent the finished model in the end.
(https://up.picr.de/46670289pk.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Very clever! I also like the mottling you’ve added to the wheel cover.
Cheers, Tom
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Just catching up on this thread - amazing work!
I like the propeller in particular. I have tried all sorts of methods, but alas I have found that the pencil method hasn't worked well for me in 1/48 and smaller scales. The pencils never adhere properly for me, and the lines never stay sharp, even on a matt surface, so I always end up wiping it all away, masking, and spraying (which is also very tiresome and doesn't consistently produce good results :( ) .
I must say, propellers are the least favourite part of the build process for me; I always hate it and I always dislike the result. Great that you have mastered a method that works for you :)
Cheers and well done!
BC
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More lovely detail work, a pleasure to watch and thanks for sharing your process.
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I wholeheartedly agree with Brad that propellers are my least favorite part of WWI builds. That and wheels! Very difficult in 1/72.
Stunning work on this. Thanks for posting your techniques.
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Bertl, that’s very old stuff! Where are the stork pictures? ;)
Andreas
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Bertl, that’s very old stuff! Where are the stork pictures? ;)
Andreas
Hi Andreas,
das sind fast tagesaktuelle Bilder, ich baue zur Zeit an meinem "eigenen" Roland-Walfisch ;D
Der Storch muss noch eine ganze Weile in seinem Nest warten ::)
Hi Andreas,
these are almost daily updated pictures, I am currently building my "own" Roland-whalefish ;D
The stork will have to wait quite a while in its nest ::)
Servus
Bertl
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Silly me! Now I see: your last Walfisch wheels were camouflaged…
I don’t think this one gets any worse than the other one.
Andreas
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Wow amazing build and log! Thank you for all the tips and tricks! Im enjoying following along :)
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Thank you very much, Andreas and Ben
The undercarriage.
The struts (actually all metal parts) were primed with Gunze RLM02.
The actual camouflage paint was then applied on top - in this case the XF-61 dark green from Tamiya.
After the camouflage paint had dried, the surface paint was removed with very fine steel wool to reveal the primer in some places.
Scratches and flaking paint can therefore contribute to the ageing of the paintwork.
Further weathering and aging - e.g. with highly diluted oil color broth, etc. - will be carried out in a later built-phase.
(https://up.picr.de/46706057os.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/46706058cu.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/46706056tk.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/46706067ei.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
Translated with DeepL.com (free version)
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As on the undercarriage, the same procedure on the roll-over hoop.
Primer in RLM02, Tamiya XF-61 on top and remove this again with fine steel wool in various places - always in the direction of flight.
(https://up.picr.de/46706063ym.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/46706061ew.jpg)
The Laffette was treated in a similar way.
(https://up.picr.de/46706062kc.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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The wooden axle cladding has also been prepared in the same way as the original.
The next step is to apply the actual camouflage paint.
(https://up.picr.de/46706060aq.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/46706059rc.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Work is also already underway on the Mercedes-engine, here the first paint work on the cylinders.
Everything still looks "brand new".... .
(https://up.picr.de/46706064az.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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The primer, wood grain and metal parts of the tail skid have also been painted.
The final painting with light blue and some chipping and aging will be done later.
(https://up.picr.de/46706824jg.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/46706823vp.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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I have missed some of your more recent posts and so have been reading through again. This is amazing indeed - the amount of detail that you achieve even in this very large scale is truly staggering. The paint finishes are also outstanding.
Stephen.
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(https://up.picr.de/46630983qz.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
Bertl,
I am late to this, but it's simply beautiful work all around. I must try your method for coloring the props. I do have another question for you:
This metal spinner . . . how did you achieve this wonderful finish?? It looks just like metal!
Warren
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(https://up.picr.de/46630983qz.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
Bertl,
I am late to this, but it's simply beautiful work all around. I must try your method for coloring the props. I do have another question for you:
This metal spinner . . . how did you achieve this wonderful finish?? It looks just like metal!
Warren
Hello Warren,
funnily enough and in line with your question, I am currently working on the spinner.
The metallic effect was created with Mr. Metal Color polishing paints and is actually quite easy and quick to achieve.
Here are the pictures in the order in which I worked.
First I put a few dents, bumps and small damages on the spinner, this was done with a small file and sandpaper.
(https://up.picr.de/46709787ya.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/46709785vw.jpg)
Then I primed the spinner with Mr. Metalprimer.
(https://up.picr.de/46709786df.jpg)
Next, several thin layers of Mr. Metalcolor "Aluminum" were painted with the airbrush.
(https://up.picr.de/46709793aj.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
Translated with DeepL.com (free version)
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Now a few spots are painted on with "Iron", or rather dabbed on.
I use an old soft brush which I have given a (military) short haircut 8)
The spots are dabbed on irregularly.
It looks a bit ugly afterwards, but don't worry - it will get prettier.
(https://up.picr.de/46709794lz.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/46709795kf.jpg)
The spinner is then polished.
I use the short-haired brush again for this.
This is rotated between thumb and forefinger with light (!) pressure.
(https://up.picr.de/46709797mj.jpg)
Here you can see the effect after polishing.
(https://up.picr.de/46709798qd.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/46709788iw.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/46709790tz.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Now seal with Tamiya "Smog". I use a mix of 50% paint and 50% thinner for this.
(https://up.picr.de/46709791nh.jpg)
In the following picture you can see that this sealant softens the gloss a little and emphasizes the contrasts between "aluminum" and "iron" a little.
Again without sealing:
(https://up.picr.de/46709790tz.jpg)
And now sealing with "smog":
(https://up.picr.de/46709792ie.jpg)
The next step is a minimal washing of the screw holes, scratches and dents with heavily diluted dark brown oil color broth.
This is followed by another coat of 50/50 smog and thinner.
But before that, the current coat of paint has to dry thoroughly.
Servus
Bertl
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I have missed some of your more recent posts and so have been reading through again. This is amazing indeed - the amount of detail that you achieve even in this very large scale is truly staggering. The paint finishes are also outstanding.
Stephen.
Thank you very much, Stephen
Servus
Bertl
-
Bertl,
Thank you so much for that tutorial!! Is the Mr. Metal Color a lacquer-based paint like the rest of the line?
Warren
-
The propeller is now also almost complete.
Only the hub is still missing.
However, the hup-plate has also already been painted.
The propeller was sealed again after applying the decals.
I used a mixture of Tamiya's matt clear, semi-matt clear and smog for this.
Mix 1/3 of each paint.
(https://up.picr.de/46710408wr.jpg)
"Smog" is used as a filter so that the very bright-looking golden axial decals become a little more matt and thus fit better into the overall picture.
The matt varnish is necessary to prevent the propeller from appearing too shiny for the scale effect, because "smog" and semi-matt clear together are relatively shiny.
(https://up.picr.de/46710409wc.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/46710410vr.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/46710411vb.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Bertl,
Thank you so much for that tutorial!! Is the Mr. Metal Color a lacquer-based paint like the rest of the line?
Warren
Hi Warren,
Yes, you can also dilute the Mr. Metal-color series with the normal Gunze/Mr.Hobby Color-Thinner.
The colors are sometimes a bit strange to paint, they often clog the airbrush nozzle very quickly.
It may be necessary to dilute them by more than 50% with Mr. Thinner.
It may well be possible to achieve the metallic effect with metal polishing paints from another manufacturer, but I have never tried it.
Servus
Bertl
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Beautiful work, and inspiring!
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Beautiful work, and inspiring!
[/quote
I completely agree, and I'd like to add educational.
Cheers,
Willem
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Magnificent work ;D
-
Thank you, Nigel, Willem and Ben :D
Servus
Bertl
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The spinner was treated with dark, highly diluted oil paint and then sealed again with diluted Tamiya "Smog".
However, it is not yet finished at this stage.
(https://up.picr.de/46735662nr.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/46735661rr.jpg)
The propeller hub-plate has now also been fitted.
The propeller itself is now completely finished.
(https://up.picr.de/46735659oh.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/46735658xs.jpg)
Wood and metal ....
(https://up.picr.de/46735660jz.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Superb work here, Bertl.
I was reviewing this thread and how you use the AK chipping fluid to obtain the weathered look of paint chipping.
I was wondering if you found that the chipping fluid simply beads up on surfaces previously painted with a solvent based paint, like the oil paints used on the floor? I have found this to be the case and was unable to use the chipping fluid over a lacquer paint.
Do you use a certain type of paint for the base color?
Ken
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Superb work here, Bertl.
I was reviewing this thread and how you use the AK chipping fluid to obtain the weathered look of paint chipping.
I was wondering if you found that the chipping fluid simply beads up on surfaces previously painted with a solvent based paint, like the oil paints used on the floor? I have found this to be the case and was unable to use the chipping fluid over a lacquer paint.
Do you use a certain type of paint for the base color?
Ken
Hello Ken,
I only use standard Tamiya or Gunze/Mr. Hobby paints for the most part.
I also worked with normal Tamiya colors for the cockpit floor.
After the wood grain (oil paint) had dried, the floor was sealed with Tamiya matt clear lacquer and a drop of clear orange. The AK chipping fluid was then applied on top. It worked quite well, the AK did not run off.
However, this is the first time I have worked with AK over a large area on the cockpit floor and I have not yet had any further experience with the AK chipping fluid.
So far I have worked with Maskol or chipped with hairspray - but hairspray was usually too much effort for me.
The AK worked much better.
But many thanks for the tip.
Servus
Bertl
Translated with DeepL.com (free version)
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That propeller represents the essence of your outstanding modelling skills. It is a model on its own!
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Hear hear. What an utterly beautiful piece of work.
-
Thank you @PrzemoL and @KiwiZac :D
Servus
Bertl
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The spinner was masked with Maskol, but only small dots were dabbed on with the tip of a toothpick.
(https://up.picr.de/46829274li.jpg)
Then the gray-green "Roland paint" (Gunze RLM02) was applied.
In this way, the spinner was given paint flakes due to stone chipping and various improper handling by the Imperial mechanics 8)
(https://up.picr.de/46829275zd.jpg)
Now the same masking procedure again.
Now care was taken to ensure that the masking dabs were applied partly overlapping with the previous dots and partly directly on the gray-green base color.
(https://up.picr.de/46829276ft.jpg)
Now the white aircraft group marking ("Flat White" mixed with a tiny drop of "Buff") is painted on.
(https://up.picr.de/46829273kf.jpg)
Then de-mask - that means rubbing off the masking dots.
Now you can see old stone chips on the spinner which were on the gray-green primer and which were then simply painted over with the white aircraft group marking by the mechanics without repainting the old stone chips.
Some of the new stone chips that followed only caused the white paint to peel off, but in some cases they even penetrated through to the aluminum.
(https://up.picr.de/46829277mh.jpg)
I hope my translation into English is halfway understandable?
-
Weathering was applied with heavily diluted umber oil paint
The final step is to seal the spinner with silky matt clear varnish - then propeller and spinner are ready and waiting for final assembly
(https://up.picr.de/46829280hs.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/46829278zt.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/46829281bo.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/46829279tn.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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A quick jump to the gun ring.
Wingnut Wings gives you the choice of using part # H2, the "Schneider Gun Ring" including some small parts such as handles etc., or part # A47, the "Common Gun Ring".
Original pictures of the plane I want to build show me that the "Common Gun-Ring" was installed there.
I first painted the gun ring and the associated add-on parts with Gunze RLM02.
After the paint had dried well, I painted over the parts with Tamiya XF-22 RLM Grey - this is basically the same color as RLM02 from Gunze, only slightly darker.
The gun ring was then treated with very fine steel wool so that the lighter color underneath became visible again in places.
The brass rollers on the laffette were painted with Mr.Metalcolor "Brass".
A very fine 10/0 brush helps immensely here ::)
Weathering with very dark oil paint.
I attached a small wing nut to the fork to which the machine gun is attached.
(https://up.picr.de/46830738sh.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/46830737bg.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/46830736qb.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/46830735io.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/46830734pw.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Wow! Incredible attention to detail!!
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Very nice and very educational!
Andreas
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Magnificent work, Bertl! And your English translations are perfectly clear... I'd never heard of Deep L before, but as it seems to work so well for you I looked them up and may start using it myself instead of Google Translate.
In fact... hervorragende Arbeit, Bertl! Und deine englischen Übersetzungen sind absolut klar... Ich hatte noch nie von Deep L gehört, aber da es bei dir so gut zu funktionieren scheint, habe ich es nachgeschlagen und werde es vielleicht selbst anstelle von Google Translate verwenden.
(how was that? :) )
Dutch
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I don't know how I missed this build till now...
but to read and see all in once is a spectacular trip!
A real masterpiece!
ciao
Edo
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Very impressive! I really like the spinner.
Grüße Joachim
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Catching up on the latest builds. As always your work is inspiring and truly amazing!
RAGIII
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I love your delicate chipping on the spinner Bertl, it's come out beautifully! And as for the detail on that gun mount...wow!
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Loving these amazing posts in your build log! So much to learn :)
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Many thanks to all of you for your kind comments
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Magnificent work, Bertl! And your English translations are perfectly clear... I'd never heard of Deep L before, but as it seems to work so well for you I looked them up and may start using it myself instead of Google Translate.
In fact... hervorragende Arbeit, Bertl! Und deine englischen Übersetzungen sind absolut klar... Ich hatte noch nie von Deep L gehört, aber da es bei dir so gut zu funktionieren scheint, habe ich es nachgeschlagen und werde es vielleicht selbst anstelle von Google Translate verwenden.
(how was that? :) )
Dutch
PERFECT! ;)
-
I also continued to work a little on the Roland C.II engine.
The spark plugs are missing on the wingnut engine.
Suitable and excellent replacements can be found in the Taurus range.
(https://up.picr.de/46914544mf.jpg)
The spark plugs were painted with Mr.Metalcolor "Iron" (the body with the wrench size attachment), Tamiya "Gloss-White" (the insulator) and Mr.Metalcolor "Brass" (the connection for the ignition cable).
(https://up.picr.de/46914545ou.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/46914547gh.jpg)
I added the copper sealing rings, the ignition contacts and the eagle decal on the insulator body. Then weathering with oil paint. Here is a greatly enlarged macro photo of one of the twelve spark plugs needed
The biggest challenge was the D.R.P. engraving on the flank of the wrench size. ::)
(https://up.picr.de/46914546rk.jpg)
All spark plugs were then attached to the cylinder head with two-component adhesive.
(https://up.picr.de/46914543px.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/46914541vi.jpg)
-
No, the "super-macro-Spark-plug-picture" is of course just a joke ;D
The spark plug is an original, which was allegedly removed from the engine of a Fokker D.VII.
The ignition cables were made from annealed 0.25mm thick copper wire.
Here only one side of the engine is finished.
(https://up.picr.de/46914548bn.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/46914539fj.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Toll!
Dutch
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Magic work Bertl, and I'm so pleased you persevered to paint the maker's mark on each sparkplug ;) ;D
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Outstanding work as usual!
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Wow that engine and plugs look great ;D
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Breathtaking!
But where do you fool us again? I can hardly take pics of originals from your model parts.
Andreas
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More lovely work, stunning details. It is very interesting to see your approach here, I've always glued the cylinders to the engine block before painting but this approach makes adding the plug wire detailing easier.
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I am baffled by your attention to detail and realistic weathering.
This is a great build Bertl!
Cheers,
Willem
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Omg I’m speechless at your abilities.
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For a second I really had thought the photo of the spark plug was really an enlargement...
BTW ... Fantastic work Bertl
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Beautiful work. You really had me with the picture of the original plug!
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Thank you all very much for your kind comments.
The Roland C.II is currently on a break, I am busy with a WingnutWings Fokker D.VII (OAW).
This model belongs to a fellow model builder who does not have the possibility for airbrush painting.
So no primer etc. as a base for the Aviattik-Lozenge.
Well, we both arranged a deal - he assembles the model in parts and I do the painting, decaling, sealing and weathering work for him.
When my part of the work is done, I will send it back across Germany to him and he will then assemble the model completely.
I used Tamiya Gloss-White as a base for the Aviattik-Lozenge.
The remaining colors were used according to the instructions in the WingnutWings building instructions.
The Aviattik-Lozenge is excellent to work with, but does not fit the model correctly in terms of the ribbon spacing.
Here it is advantageous to divide the wing lozenges into smaller sections in order to "adjust" the rib spacing somewhat.
The Rudolf Windisch marking of the Jasta66s shows a very early Fokker (OAW) 2035/18 from the first construction batch 2000-2199.
The decals are the Lifelike Fokker D.VII decals #32019 part 4.
Be careful with these decals with decal softer, they react very VERY sensitively.
(https://up.picr.de/47293635id.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/47293634qh.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/47293636zi.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
Translated with DeepL.com (free version)
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Lovely work, my friend! :o :o
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Lovely work, that's a very colourful scheme.
-
Interesting arrangement, one builder and one painter... Great scheme and the results look promising though.
/Fredrik
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Beautiful work, Bertl, the D.VII is one of my top 3 favorite WWI aeroplanes and this is an extraordinarily colorful example. Looking forward to seeing it completed!
Wunderschöne Arbeit, Bertl, die D.VII ist eines meiner Top-3-Lieblingsflugzeuge des Ersten Weltkriegs und dies ist ein außerordentlich farbenfrohes Beispiel. Ich freue mich darauf, es fertiggestellt zu sehen!
Dutch
(Translated with DeepL.com)
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Wow that DVII looks amazing with the Aviattic decals! Im sure your friend is very happy! :)
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Many thanks to you all!
Slowly but surely the bird is coming to an end.
A few decals and paint jobs, but the rest is done.
Incidentally, this is the first Wingnut Fokker D.VII that I've worked on.
It's interesting to see how much more fragile and delicate this model looks compared to other single-seaters such as the Pfalz D.IIIa, Roland D.VIa/b or the Albatros fighters.
You hardly dare to take the thing in your hand to rub the decals on the sides of the fuselage.
The struts on the model are also all wafer-thin.
My friend will be delighted when he gets to assemble his model completely.
(https://up.picr.de/47452591jb.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/47452596kc.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/47452601ei.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/47452600uw.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/47452599cu.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/47452602pc.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
Translated with DeepL.com (free version)
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Wow! That is one stunning looking Fokker! Always loved the colorful lozenge ;D
-
Great work on the Fokker. One question - were those camo stains on the engine cowling airbrushed free-hand to have the soft colour-borders?
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Thank you very much, Ben and PrzemoL
Hi @PrzemoL.
yes, the purple-green camo camouflage is painted on freehand with an airbrush.
This Rudolph Windisch airplane was one of the first OAW-Werke production lot (Fokker D.VII (OAW) 2035/18).
On the original pictures (thanks to Wingnut Wings) you can see that there were no sharply defined purple-green fields painted,
as on the later construction lots.
Very early OAW's:
(https://up.picr.de/47468333ko.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/47468340mt.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/47468419wn.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/47468332tq.jpg)
Later (OAW):
(https://up.picr.de/47468418nz.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Beautiful, Bertl. That airbrush work is stunning!
All best,
Dutch
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Excellent research and very nice airbrush work.
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Wow, that's a terrific job you are doing here. And I really like that colour scheme.
Viele Grüße aus Berlin
;)
Rafael
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Lovely work, as always, Bertl
Sandy
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The Fokker D.VII (OAW) 2035/18 of Ltn. Windisch has now been assembled by its owner and is in the display case.
It was a nice experience, a model built by two different people over a distance of around 460km.
A lot of consultation was necessary and took place, but in the end the owner is more than happy with his model.
And that's what counts.
(https://up.picr.de/47595318dx.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/47595312ua.jpg)
He also sent me another package straight away. ::)
Full of parts for a Wingnut Wings Albatros D.Va.
He wants me to paint it in the Ltn. Dilthey color scheme.
The green/white machine in the colors of the Saxons.
He will assemble the model himself.
Servus
Bertl
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Absolutely brilliant - from start to finish. Congrats, Bertl!
Cheers,
Gary
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After the Windisch-Fokker and before the start of a new project, I found a little time to finish painting the Orcarina exhaust of the Roland C.II.
The colors I used were Mr. Metallcolor “Iron”, “Dark Iron” Mr. Hobby “Rust Red” and some watercolor “Brown” and “Black”.
The colors were applied in the order as written.
All colors were dabbed on with a short-haired brush, only the Mr. Hobby “Rust Red” was sprayed very heavily diluted with the airbrush.
Before the watercolors dry, dab them irregularly with a cotton swab.
The Mr. Metalcolor paints are polishing paints.
Do NOT (!) polish them after dabbing on with the short-haired brush.
The worn and matt-looking effect would be lost.
At the very end, after the dabbed-on watercolors, heavily diluted with water, have dried, they can be very carefully scratched over with a brush that has very stiff bristles.
These scratches make the metal colors, hidden under the watercolors and the rust red, shine a little.
I hope the meaning is clear, because I think this last two sentence are difficult to translate.
In the original, the exhaust was directly in the propeller wind.
For me, this meant that swirled-up soil/dirt and oil burnt onto the surface by the heat of the exhaust should be visible on the exhaust.
Translated with DeepL.com (free version)
(https://up.picr.de/47595297ii.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/47595296ym.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/47595298dx.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/47595295np.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/47595294pm.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Absolutely brilliant - from start to finish. Congrats, Bertl!
Cheers,
Gary
Thank you Gary.
Yes, it was a funny experience.
But my colleague seems to be satisfied, the next model, the Dilthey-Albatros, is already in the works.
-
That is an Outstanding effect on the exhaust! I will keep this formula for use on future projects!
RAGIII
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Sie sind ein Künstler, mein Herr...
Dutch
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Great work with the co-op build! The painting of the exhaust sounds straightforward, I'll have to give it a go to see if it really is, because the effect is exactly what I've been looking for!
Thanks!
Fredrik
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Thank you so much, Rick, Dutch and Fredrik!!
Servus
Bertl
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Since I just had the right colors at hand, I also painted the exhaust for the next project.
This is the exhaust of a Wingnut Wings Albatros D.Va.
I used a hot-drawn plastic-sprue to create the flare at the end of the exhaust.
Then I drilled and milled out the opening of the exhaust .
In the end, the wall of the sheet metal should be wafer-thin.
The procedure for painting is exactly the same as for the Roland exhaust.
(https://up.picr.de/47600075sk.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/47600078zh.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/47600076xt.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/47600079td.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/47600077wp.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
Translated with DeepL.com (free version)
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Perfection!
RAGIII
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Amazing job with the exhaust. I'll try the technique this weekend. Thanks for the description!
-
Lovely work, I love that sprue at the end of the Albatros exhaust. Perfection!
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Absolutely gorgeous! Thank you for sharing the recipe too. I can't wait to give it a try :D
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Same for me, looks terrific. I for sure will give it a try. Thanks a lot, Bertl!!
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Wow this effect is perfect! My go to color is also the Mr Metal Colors - but i usually airbrush them. I have to try the brush method next time.
Thanks for sharing :)
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Thank you very much for your many kind approvals.
Servus
Bertl
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If I had only 1% of your skills, I would be a very happy man...
Willem
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Unfortunately, my Roland C.II is still parked on the side of the road.
But I have at least finished painting the axial propeller for the Fokker D.VII (OAW) from Post #905.
As usual - I swear by this technique - painted with colored pencils.
Then sealed with clear varnish and a little clear orange. Finally, a very thin layer of oil paint was applied - in this case natural sienna.
Now the oil paint has to dry well, then the last step - sealing with semi-gloss varnish, decals, some aging and sealing again.
There will be pictures when I have finished.
(https://up.picr.de/47964990og.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/47964998qn.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/47964993uk.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/47964994px.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/47964995ry.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/47964996di.jpg)
Photographed with a flash, the effect of the oil paint is emphasized.
I had always done without oil paint for the propellers in the past, but the effect is better with oil paint.
(https://up.picr.de/47964997ob.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
Translated with DeepL.com (free version)
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Unbelievable good!!!
-
Your technique is awesome, Bertl!
I tried it too and I can testifie that it works!
I have e question though: sometimes my pencils scratch the basecoat of the prop, revealing the plastic underneath.
Do you have a tip on that?
thank you
ciao
edo
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Thank you very much Rafael and Edo ;)
@Edo
Hi Edo,
I know this problem, I had it quite often in the beginning.
There are pens that have a slightly softer lead, try it once.
However, they then have to be sharpened more often.
However, you must not press too hard with the soft pencils as this will also scratch the surface.
Another way to prevent scratching is to pull the pencil while painting, as if you were painting with a brush.
If the pen is “pushed”, there is a real risk of scratching the surface.
However, it is also quite possible that the primer will not bond properly with the plastic surface.
Wiping over briefly with isopropyl alcohol before painting works quite well.
The applied layer should not be too thin, it is better to spray over it several times with the airbrush.
And very important: The surface for the colored pencils MUST be matt.
Servus
Bertl
Translated with DeepL.com (free version)
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Your propeller looks superb, Bertl. I really need to focus more on getting mine better - so thanks for the tips!
Cheers,
Gary
-
hey Bertl!
thank you for the tip!
I tried also “wet” pencils, if I make myself explained, but then the painting become not sharp....
ciao
edo
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Stunning work on your prop!
RAGIII
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I am practicing hard with this approach. Not quite there yet but I think it's worth persevering.....
Thanks so much for sharing how you do this.
-
Great stuff, as always, Bertl!
Have you been well through the flooding?
Andreas
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Great stuff, as always, Bertl!
Have you been well through the flooding?
Andreas
Hi Andreas,
thanks for asking.
We were lucky with the floods, we are a bit higher here south of Landsberg/Lech - but only a few kilometers further north was land under. :-\
Servus
Bertl
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The AXIAL propeller for the Fokker D.VII (OAW) is now completely finished.
The mounting plate (hub) painted with Mr. Metalcolor "Stainless" and dabbed with "Iron" from the same manufacturer.
Then polished and sealed with silk matt varnish.
The color on the hub is unfortunately darker in the pictures than in real life.
After drying, the decals were sealed with a mixture of silk matt lacquer, matt clear lacquer and smoke.
All colors from Tamiya.
"Smoke" is used to filter the somewhat strong colors of the decals and thus break the shine.
The addition of matt varnish is necessary to prevent the propeller from shining like a bacon rind - this would completely destroy the scale effect.
The sharpness of the wingnut decals is unbelievable.
You can decipher almost every letter of the gold-colored propeller identification.
The white numbering on the hub is the indication painted in the field that this propeller belongs to the Fokker D.VII (OAW) with the serial number 2035/17.
This aircraft comes from the first production batch manufactured by the Ostdeutsche Albatroswerke (OAW).
The D.VII was delivered to Jasta 66 and assigned to Ltn. Rudolf Windisch.
The aircraft was lost on May 27, 1918 when it was shot down.
(https://up.picr.de/48076933zt.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/48076932sb.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/48076934lx.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/48076950zi.jpg)
Here the prop (center) ready for assembly on the model.
The AXIAL prop with the white spinner belongs to a Roland C.II and the lower one - with the rounded, brass-tipped leading edges - is a Niendorf propeller for a Hansa Brandenburg W.29
Interesting:
All three propellers were painted with the same colored pencils, i.e. always the same combination of colored pencils - only the primer was a different shade each time.
The AXIAL for the Roland C.II "Late" was painted with Mr. Hobby H318 "Radome", the AXIAL for the Fokker D.VII (OAW) with Mr. Hobby H34 "Cream Yellow" and the Niendorf for the HB W.29 with Tamiya XF-15 "Flesh".
(https://up.picr.de/48076951lx.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/48076982sz.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
Translated with DeepL.com (free version)
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Lovely work. They look so good as scale representations of wood IMO.
-
Bertl,
I can't believe the realistic wood grain effect and laminations of your Axial prop, modeling artistry at it's finest! The scale effect is perfect and to achieve these results with oils and pencils is utterly amazing and to a died in the wool hand carving wood fan is truly impressive. Beautiful work!
Cheers,
Lance
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Spectacular results, Bertl. Great advice on the base colours for each of the propellers, too.
Cheers,
Gary
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Wunderschön, Bertl. True artistry! I'm about to tackle the Eindecker props and will definitely give this method a try.
Dutch
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Beautiful work!!
I enjoy playing with my watercolor pencils.
Warren
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Its really impressive! I have to try it next time! ;D
-
If taken from the correct angle one could not discern whether they were real or scale models! Amazing!
RAGIII
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It's been ages since I found the time to continue building the Roland C.IIa.
Almost all the work inside the fuselage had been completed by the break - in principle only the two rudder control cables still had to be installed and fixed.
Well, that's done now.
The two fuselage halves are now glued together.
(https://up.picr.de/48948121fl.jpg)
I had written that the kit came from an estate.
Some of the components had already been separated from the casting branch by the previous owner.
This included the two fuselage shells. Unfortunately, the wrong tools were probably used, or the previous owner did not know that the fine, slightly raised edge on the fuselage was correct.
The production process of the fuselage must be kept in mind - it was wrapped as a left and a right shell with thin wooden strips (called wrapping technique - Pfalz-Flugzeugwerke also produced some airplanes in this way) and then both halves were joined together.
The seam of the two halves was later protected against environmental influences (moisture, dirt, etc.) with a fabric tape glued over the entire length of the fuselage.
OK, however - I had no other option than to remove the raised edge completely and to fill the glued joints of the fuselage shells cleanly.
(https://up.picr.de/48948120oo.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/48948122lk.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/48948119qb.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/48948123km.jpg)
Here is a comparison of the hull (right) as it is in the kit.
(https://up.picr.de/48948124gm.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
Translated with DeepL.com (free version)
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Now that the tube of Tamiya filler had already been opened, further adhesive seams, which should not be visible later, were filled.
(https://up.picr.de/48948126hj.jpg)
This concerns the lower joints from the fuselage to the wings,
(https://up.picr.de/48948128gd.jpg)
the gluing seams of the complete rudder fin which can be seen next to the mounting slot of the tailplane and
(https://up.picr.de/48948125yn.jpg)
of course, the two-part fairing (upper and lower part) on the nose of the aircraft, which was made of aluminum sheet.
(https://up.picr.de/48948129cp.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/48948130yz.jpg)
But there is one more glued seam that should not be forgotten.
A stringer is attached directly in front of the pilot to stiffen the fuselage shell - you can hardly see it on the finished model, but it is by no means wrong if it is filled.
(https://up.picr.de/48948127da.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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A word about the assembly of the motor.
You really have to work very cleanly here when fixing the motor.
If it sits at a slight angle in the motor mount, or if there is too much paint on the inside of the glued areas, then this problem is immediately apparent when you look at the motor from the front.
This will then be slightly offset from the gap in the fairing.
(https://up.picr.de/48948131we.jpg)
I only glued the motor to the two front gluing points after I had made sure that the gaps around the spinner were all equally correct with the propeller and spinner attached.
(https://up.picr.de/48948132ib.jpg)
I had milled off a lot of material on the inside of the fairing nose.
When compared to the original picture of a Roland C.II "Early" you can see that this was actually an advantage for the model.
(https://up.picr.de/48948745wq.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
Servus
Bertl
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Enough filling - now it's time to sand with sandpaper and fine steel wool.
(https://up.picr.de/48948137rt.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/48948138sw.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/48948140vx.jpg)
The repaired cockpit stringer-area was painted with a brush and Tamiya XF-66 light grey.
(https://up.picr.de/48948142xl.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/48948143nq.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Some of the Roland-Walfisch two-seaters have had their rear windows converted from hinged to sliding windows.
This was also the case with the aircraft that I would like to model.
(https://up.picr.de/48948149nb.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/48948150ku.jpg)
To do this, the folding hinges were removed and a wooden strip was attached to the top and bottom of the window as a guide rail.
On the underside of the window, the fuselage ran fairly straight to the rear - a longer rail could be mounted here.
At the top, however, the fuselage was a little more rounded when viewed from the rear because of the cutout for the gun carriage.
Therefore, only a relatively short guide strip could be mounted at the top so that the window did not jam when pushed.
A small wooden block was mounted as a handle on the inside and outside of the window frame at the front.
In order to convincingly represent these features on the model, the frames of the rear windows had to be sanded down a little at the top and bottom.
The first model picture shows a kit-window where the frame has not yet been sanded down.
(https://up.picr.de/48948146se.jpg)
Here the frames have been sanded and the guide rails mounted.
I used thin strips of Evergreen material to represent the wooden guide rails.
The wooden blocks mentioned as handles are not yet glued to the windows.
(https://up.picr.de/48948148uc.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/48948147tj.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/48948144uw.jpg)
I hope that it won't be nearly nine months before the next update, but I have to put the Roland C.II aside again
I'm currently finishing an Aviattic Pfalz D.VIII.
You can see a little bit of that in my avatar picture. ;)
Servus
Bertl
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I almost forgot:
Back to post #153, the repair of the sanded fuselage seams.
I will depict these with decals.
This is relatively easy to do, the rib band decals from Wingnut Wings do the job.
I did this many, many years ago on a Wingnut Pfalz D.IIIa - the fuselage of the Pfalz D.III/D.IIIa was also made using this wrapping technique.
When the model has been painted/primed, the rib band decals are glued lengthwise in the middle.
If necessary, two decals can be glued on top of each other if the fabric strips are to be made thicker (more raised).
Here are old pictures of the Pfalz D.IIIa model mentioned:
The model is painted silver-grey, the decal (fabric) stripes are glued on, the black paint is still missing here.
(https://up.picr.de/48948851sk.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/48948852oi.jpg)
On the finished model, the fabric strips - here under the nose and between the undercarriage legs at the maintenance hatch -, are faintly visible in the side light.
(https://up.picr.de/48948853mn.jpg)
The fabric band also runs under the lower wing along the fuselage centerline.
(https://up.picr.de/48948854nc.jpg)
The decal (fabric) band can also be seen on the fuselage back.
(https://up.picr.de/48948850yr.jpg)
Original pictures from Roland show that the fabric strips are only visible flat - here in the picture is an aircraft that has crashed, the center seam covered with fabric tape can be seen in front of the rudder fin.
I therefore think that the decals will be sufficient to represent the fabric bands.
(https://up.picr.de/48948863pv.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Hallo Bertl!
Great that you have resumed work on the Roland C IIa, excellent as always. I also think that you can learn something from every single one of your contributions and thus make progress for your own work, thanks Bertl!
Cheers Joerg
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Fabulous work Bertl, this is a joy to watch and thanks so much for sharing your in progress shots, they are very helpful.
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Wonderful work, I really love every detail and the efforts you make for every detail. Really really impressive and inspiring. All thumbs up. Thanks a lot.
Viele Gr??e aus Berlin und Danke f?r den tollen Beitrag!
Rafael
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And it is written that on the 8th day, God created Bertl and on this day, Bob's Buckles gave up modelling for knitting instead... lol
You're a marvel for the hobby, Bertl.
Thank you for the inspiration.
Now, what did I do with those knitting needles...
BB ;D ;D
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You're a marvel for the hobby, Bertl.
Thank you for the inspiration.
Hear hear! While the Rolands aren't a family of aircraft I'd model I'm finding your build thoroughly entertaining and inspiring. Bravo, Bertl!
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Amazing attention to the details and perfect execution - as always from you :-)
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Hello everyone,
Thank you very much for your comments. ;D
Servus
Bertl
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I did find a little time for the Roland C.II after all.
The screw heads - or was it nailed (?) - of the sliding guides were indicated with a 0.2mm carbide drill bit
(https://up.picr.de/48972584sj.jpg)
A sneaky look through the window:
(https://up.picr.de/48972585nu.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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Precise filling and sanding is important on these wing/fuselage joints.
(https://up.picr.de/48972586xc.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/48972587ht.jpg)
The wing roots are filed precisely straight at the transition to the wing with a fine diamond file so that the wings fit cleanly.
(https://up.picr.de/48972598td.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/48972599rs.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/48972600fj.jpg)
The joint seam at the cockpit edge is reproduced with thin hot-drawn plastic.
(https://up.picr.de/48972991cj.jpg)
Servus
Bertl
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When filing the lower wing root smooth, I damaged the mounting cover of the antenna.
A disk with a diameter of 4.7mm was punched out of 0.2mm thick (or thin) plastic card, drilled out in the middle and glued on.
(https://up.picr.de/48972590cq.jpg)
The screw heads all around were again marked with a 0.2mm drill bit.
Actually, these should be raised screw heads ..... Let's see, maybe I'll glue short, thin pieces of casting slip into the holes and cut them to the right length to imitate screw heads.
But nobody will actually see that down there under the fuselage anyway
(https://up.picr.de/48972592yw.jpg)
Then I reach for the kitchen towel, Tamiya tape and Maskol.
The fuselage is now ready for priming.
I will use "Sailcolor" from Gunze for this.
(https://up.picr.de/48972594dl.jpg)
(https://up.picr.de/48972595el.jpg)
It is interesting how short and compact the fuselage of the Pfalz D.VIII looks next to the two-seater Roland C.II.
As a reminder, the single-seat Albatros fighters are only marginally shorter than the Roland C.II.
If you have these sizes in mind, you realize how small a Pfalz D.VIII is in comparison.
Servus
Bertl
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Great work all around. Always a pleasure to follow your build logs!
Pfalz D.VIII is indeed short but if you add the rudder and the engine cowling it becomes much longer ;D
Funny, I have just realized that my two completed models - Pfalz D.VIII and Roland C.II are standing side by side on the same shelf :)
(https://i.ibb.co/ZVGg5T9/20241208-223234.jpg)
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Lovely work, Bertl :o :o
BB
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More amazing work Bertl, inspirational as always.
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Your detail work is, as always, incredible, Bertl.
Inspirational stuff.
Sandy
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You are posting faster than I can read ;)
Amazing work Bertl!
Willem
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Amazing work! Thanks for sharing so many tips and tricks. I have to return to this build log when i start my kit ;)