lozenge decal application problems

[davec]

I’m hoping someone can help me with some problems I’m having with lozenge decal application on my Pfalz D.XII.  Apologies if this question has been asked before, but if it was, I couldn’t find them with the search function, and some of the threads that might have been helpful are limited by the images no longer being there.

I’m using the decals that came with the WNW kit.  I prepped the surfaces with alclad white primer covered with alclad clear coat.  I initially had a problem in the workshop with lint from my daughter’s quilting projects and pet dog hair, but after a lot of cleaning, don’t think that is entire explanation. 

I initially tried following WNW’s instructions- no decal setting solutions, use heat to get the decal to stick.  The decal initially went on nice and flat. About 5 minutes later, there are a lot of wrinkles in the decal, most of which smooth back out as the decal dries.  There were a few bubbles, most small and some large. I initially tried heat with a hairdryer set on low, but this made me nervous as I didn’t want the plastic to change shape.  I popped the big bubbles with a scalpel, applied microsol, which got a lot of the irregularities out. I still have some, including some fine wrinkles where there had initially been big ones.



Any suggestions?  This is new territory for me.  I did the bottom decals first, both because that is what the directions said, and because I figured my learning mistakes would be harder to see.  I’d like the top surfaces to come out better.

Thanks in advance for any advice or help you can give me.

Dave

[RAGIII]

One thing I like to do, especially on decals covering large areas is take an old T Shirt and roll it over the entire surface, usually leading to trailing edge. This  eliminates most of the bubbles and tends to reduce wrinkles later as you have reduced the amount of trapped air. I hope this helps some.
RAGIII

[skeeterbuck]

Dave I wish I had a solution to your problem but applying decals always seems to be a hit or miss proposition for me. I have been modelling for over 50 years and i still get a little anxious when it comes to applying decals thought some brands like Aeromaster, Eagle Strike or Cartograph seem to be the most forgiving and obtain good results.

Here's a case in point: A while back I applied some Aviattic lozenge and when it dried the decal had numerous bubbles trapped under the decal and I couldn't think for the life of me what could have gone wrong. I have used Aviattic decals in the past with no problems. Well, I tried a second set and they went  down without any issues. The only difference on the second application was that I used Testors Glosscote for the gloss finish under the decals. The first time I had used Tamiya Acrylic Clear for the gloss finish. I don't know if one being a lacquer as opposed to the other being acrylic had anything to do with it, but to the best of my recollection that was the only difference. Same warm water, same decal setting solution (Gunze Mr. Mark Setter), same application technique.

What I can't understand is that why is it so hard for companies to make good decals? I'm not talking about the quality of the printing. I'm referring to the overall quality of the decals. I can't believe that it's some guarded secret formula on how to produce good decals.

I recently tried some older Roden decals which are noted to put it politely "troublesome", and they did want to fracture rather easily. I tried a second set after applying some Microscale liquid decal film which is designed to keep the decal from fracturing, only to find out that now the decal would just curl up upon itself as it dried. I even tried some white diluted glue to no avail. Older Roden decals are also impervious to any decal solution known to man. Even the strongest Walthers Sovaset has no effect on them. I'm hoping that my replacement decals when they arrive will perform better.

Here are my recommendations that seem to work for me.

1. Use a lacquer or enamel gloss clear or color coat under the decals.
2. Use clean, warm distilled water
3. Cut the decal to basically fit the area eliminating as much clear film as practical.
3. Don't try to cover too much area with one decal. (for lozenge on a wing one piece may work for 1/72 scale but anything bigger will
    require multiple pieces.
4. Use a decal setting solution to help eliminate "silvering" and bubbles
5. Use a Q-tip or soft cloth to help press and or roll the bubbles from underneath the decal.
6.  Only use a decal softening solution for "difficult areas".

And maybe MOST important don't forget to say a prayer to the "decaling gods" before you begin.

Good luck!

Chuck

[davec]

RAGIII and Chuck - Many thanks. I'm already doing some of the things you suggest, but will try the rest.  In particular, will try the clean cloth, as I expect pushing out the fluid and air between the paint and decal is the biggest issue.  I was using a q-tip, but a larger surface make sense.

The alclad clear is a lacquer.  I can switch from tap to distilled water (or go really extreme - I have de-ionized water I use when chemically blackening brass).  I'm using the precut WNW decals, so am limited to the size they come.  Does anyone cut them so they can be applied in smaller sections?

I don't think the problem is the decals.  The WNW ones have a good reputation, and given I'm new to this, it seems way more likely that the problem is the user, not the materials.  I'm hoping squeezing the trapped fluid/water with the cloth does the trick. I have a business trip coming up, and will try on my return this weekend.

Thanks!

Dave