Lacquer Thinners

[macsporran]

A question that has begged an answer for me for years. What exactly is meant by Lacquer Thinners?

In the UK we (or maybe it's just me,) tend to use a turpentine or white spirit thinners for Humbrol, Revell, etc enamel paints, or artist's oils.
I'd then use isopropyl alcohol for acrylic paints such as Tamiya, Revell Aqua, Mr Hobby.
I use cans of "Airbrush Cleaner" (containing Xylene (!)) also for the weekly BIG clean.

But some paints, such as Mr Metal, don't really clean up well with any of these and I tend to use cheap brushes and dispose rather than the expensive proprietary thinners. But I assume these are the mysterious lacquer thinners I see referenced often by our US colleagues.

The term Lacquer Thinners is not often used here so can anybody tell me what it actually is? Is it for example Dimethyl Benzine, or is it perhaps acetone-based cellulose thinners as used for dope and nail varnish.

US proprietary names like Testors aren't much use here as nobody stocks it. What I'd ideally like is the compound name so I can order some from the local chemist (pharmacy) in the same way as I order a litre of IPA for 7GBP, rather than 250ml of Tamiya X20 for 6GBP!

Anybody help?
Thanks, Sandy

(PS just found that Xylene is in fact Dimethyl Benzine!)

[Russell]

In the UK we call it 'Cellulose Thinners'.

Halfords for one sell it, buy the cheapest you can find.

Aside from using it as a thinner it's always been my default cleaner (of all sorts of things).

Regards
Russell

[macsporran]

Excellent, Russell thank you.

I used this stuff way back when I used to make Keil Kraft rubber powered balsa planes - to thin and clean clear dopes. However, when I put it anywhere near a 2-Bob Airfix bagged kit from Woolworth it would melt the plastic!

I assume you need to use a protective base coat under anything thinned with this stuff? (Also a breathing mask.)
Sandy

[Manni]

Hello Sandy,
I think the term "laquer thinner" is used, when you want do thin down the paints to get a better spray pattern. You are right, when you use iso for thinning acrylics, but I have mentioned, if I thin down Vallejos with iso it is clotting, so I normally use Vallejos Thinner and nothing else. Revell acrylics can be thinned with tap water an ONE drop of dish-liquid as do Tamiyas.
For cleaning my Airbrush (Harder & Steenbeck Evoloution)after using Acrylics, I use normal water (directly after spraying) and disassemble the gun, put it into my (30€) ultrasonic cleaner, filled with water and a cap of liquid ox-gall soap and let it run for 10min. After this treatment there is nearly no more colour in or on the gun. The remaining paint could now be whiped off with a paper towel easily.
I do the same procedure, when I use enamel paints, exept for the first clean I use Acetone instead of water. Up to now (3 Years) my seals are still in a good shape.
Hope that helps you a bit.
Cheers,
Manni

[Des]

Here in Australia it is simply called 'Lacquer Thinners' or 'All Purpose Lacquer Thinners'.  I use it to thin my Gunze acrylic paints, my Mr Metal colours and my Humbrol Enamels. I also use it to clean my air brush, it will dissolve just about any paint, but a word of caution, it is very toxic. I use a chemical respirator when spraying lacquer thinners, it is deadly if inhaled and will destroy your nervous system over time. It will also melt plastic if applied neat. When thinning paints only a small amount is necessary and makes spraying paint a breeze.I buy mine in a 4L tin and usually costs around $40AUD but it goes a long way.

Des.

[macsporran]

Thanks again for your answers M & D, really helpful.
I've been having a break from WWI and making 1/24 1930s cars. Humbrol have a great range of colours but I hate spraying them as white spirit thinners takes for ever to dry and bodywork inevitably picks up dust before the paint sets. I've just sprayed a RR Phantom II orange and almost cried as I watched the dust appear even in the booth with the extractor on.
I'm off to Halfords for some cellulose thinners!!!!
(I've got the full respirator gear but if you don't hear from me for a long time........)
S

[Russell]

It is aggressive on plastic kits as you found out but is ideal when used as a thinner as Des describes – with his warnings in mind.

A lot of my modelling in the past concerned white-metal & resin kits where cellulose was ideal as it had ‘bite’ & ‘melting’ of base material wasn’t a consideration.

Regards
Russell

[Suffolk Lad]

Hi Sandy - just to say there are basically two kinds of cellulose thinner available - one termed 'gun cleaner' the other 'standard' thinner.

I use gun cleaner all the time - as Russell says mainly for cleaning but as a basic thinner too when required - primer, Alclad and very thin Tamiya mist coats. If however you are doing cars with their requisite gloss finishes then standard would be the better option as gun cleaner can tend to dull gloss paint some. However standard does have a slower drying time so be cautious when applying - spray very fine coats and allow time between for it to 'gas off', it may appear dry visually but if you have too heavy an application via several thin layers that 'gas' can work the other way and soften the plastic. You can use it to thin Humbrol enamel too but again keep the coats thin.

Des's remarks over respiratory problems are very sound - after a lifetime of doping models too I find that I am very sensitive to the fumes and try to wear a mask at all times. If I do get too much of a whiff of it these days it's main side effect appears to be very disturbed (insomnia) sleep patterns.

Hope that's of use too

Tug

[macsporran]

Great stuff guys, thank you.

Just shows you, I've been modelling for 50+ years - and this is a new technique for me. Never too old to learn!
S

[drdave]

I use rustins cellulose thinners for cleaning Airbrushes. Or cleaning brushes, but mr colour cellulose for thinning. Rustins eats plastic. I suspect mr colour has some distilled water in it as it doesn't dissolve plastic. I thin tamiya, gunze and model master enamels with it.