Pastels, Pigments, and Shading Techniques.

[lcarroll]

    I could have titled this "The Missing Link"!! Some time back I read a very interesting bunch of posts concerning applying highlighting/shading after the painting and decaling is completed using pastels and pigments . Included was some work on ribs which had been masked with strips of Tamiya Tape. In my case I'm getting to the point where I want to shade and highlight the lozenge fabric on my DV wings but can't locate the article/thread/post. As I recall it was part of a build but can't remember by who or what the build was. I'd like to re-read it before starting and also ensure I get it right.
Can anyone get me pointed back in the right direction? (maybe I should start limiting my trips outside the house!?)
Cheers,
Lance

[JoeDxMB]

If I may.......
It would  help some (including me) to explain just what is ment by "pastels and pigments" when used in this  contex.
I have read on many sites to use pastels but not what  is ment by that.
    

[lcarroll]

If I may.......
It would  help some (including me) to explain just what is ment by "pastels and pigments" when used in this  contex.
I have read on many sites to use pastels but not what  is ment by that.
    

     The basics were as follows:
    Soft (Chalk) Artists pastels were rubbed on sandpaper (or as I recall powdwered pigments were also recommended) and the resulting powder applied to a previously sealed surface (Flat finish being specified to ensure retention of the material) Let's say the suface was a wing with rib tapes; the rib tapes were covered with Tamiya Tape, the colours applied and adjusted with brush/Q-Tips (Can't remember if wet or what liquid was used), the tape carefully removed and the result is a highlighted rib with a shaded effect. Whoever posted the thread illustrated it with their build and the effect was very well done and impressive.
   Chris, I seem to recall you were commenting on it as well regarding your red SE5a??
   Anyone out there recognise this technique?
Cheers,
Lance

[GAJouette]

  Lance ,
Unless I'm mistaken that's the technique Bud uses so well.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette

[coyotemagic]

Hi, Lance.  This is the technique I use.
http://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=470.msg7061#msg7061
I tried to find the post showing post-shading, but the technique is the same.  Just make sure that you put a couple coats of clear flat down over your decals before masking and pull the tape slowly back on itself when your done.  Here's what it looks like:

Cheers,
Bud

[coyotemagic]

Okay, Lance.  I found the photos:
First step is to lay down a couple coats of clear flat over the decals, then mask.  I use Aizu Micro Masking Tape.


Next, apply the pastels using an eye shadow applicator.


Brush away the excess with a brush.


Smooth it out with a cotton swab.


Slowly, gently, remove the tape by pulling back on itself.


Blend with the cotton swab again, then seal with a clear or smoke finish.


This is what it looks like:



It's really easy.  I learned this technique on the Aerodrome a few years back from either Brad Cancian or Terri Werner.  (Sorry, guys, I can't remember which.)
Cheers,
Bud

[michael]

cheers for the tips Bud the photos are a great help 

michael

[lcarroll]

Bud,
   Exactly what I needed; Thanks for the effort, IOU a beer or two!!
Cheers,
Lance

[Ian from Doncaster]

Hi Lance,

Bud's is a great technique for rib shading.  This will also work with rib tapes, if you apply the shading before putting the rib tapes on ensuring the rib tapes appear brighter than the surrounding areas.

I used pastels of similar colours to the base paint to dull down between the ribs on my Fee, and also I use them often for rusty effects on exhausts.

[lcarroll]

Ian,
   Also a very nice appearing effect; I had read it carefully on your build thread. In addition to the usual I've applied Miccrosculpt "textured" decals over my lozenge and tapes, will be giving it a coat or two of Modelmaster Acryl Clear Flat next before trying the pastels. It's a long process; surfaces sprayed with a base coat, lozenge, Future, then tapes and another light coat of Future followed by the Miccrosculpt Decals overall. So far, so good, true test will be the masking strips on the ribs (removal thereof, hopefully not the rib tapes too!)
   The Microsculpt isn't as pronounced as I had hoped for, the lower lighter lozenge effect is really good but the upper lozenge is still too "stark" in my view. I still may have to follow it all with a thin wash to tone the lozenge down further, which will probably deem the textured decals surplus to requirements. I'll provide photos and the results on my DV Thread.
   Thanks for the info!
Cheers,
Lance

[coyotemagic]

Lance, the trick(s) to keeping the rib tapes from lifting when you remove the tape is to spray the lozenge with a coat or two of clear gloss before applying the rib tapes.  Treat them as you would any decal.  The glossier the surface, the better the adhesion.  Make sure they are truly set with no silvering, then coat them with clear flat.  The flatter, the better.  As with the decals, the masking tape will not adhere as well to a flat surface, so your tape strips will come off more readily.  Also, remember to go slowly and pull the tape back on itself.  I cannot emphasize this enough.  It's also a good idea to wear gloves while working with the pastels to avoid any finger prints.  I know it sounds like a lot of work, but it's really quite easy once you've done it a time or two.  Good luck, buddy.  I'll take you up on those beers next time I'm visiting relatives in Montana.
Cheers,
Bud

[JoeDxMB]

If I may.......
It would  help some (including me) to explain just what is ment by "pastels and pigments" when used in this  contex.
I have read on many sites to use pastels but not what  is ment by that.
    

     The basics were as follows:
    Soft (Chalk) Artists pastels were rubbed on sandpaper (or as I recall powdwered pigments were also recommended) and the resulting powder applied to a previously sealed surface (Flat finish being specified to ensure retention of the material) Let's say the suface was a wing with rib tapes; the rib tapes were covered with Tamiya Tape, the colours applied and adjusted with brush/Q-Tips (Can't remember if wet or what liquid was used), the tape carefully removed and the result is a highlighted rib with a shaded effect. Whoever posted the thread illustrated it with their build and the effect was very well done and impressive.
   Chris, I seem to recall you were commenting on it as well regarding your red SE5a??
   Anyone out there recognise this technique?
Cheers,
Lance

 
Ok..... thanks.   
I do use earth tone chalks for weathering  but, i did not realize they were refered to as pastels.
 

[lcarroll]

The ones I have are labelled "Soft Pastels" and are really chalk as opposed to an oil based product. Mine are probably as basic as you can get , "Reeves" is the label however the nearest real Art Supply Store is over 3 hours down the road so these will do. They are square "sticks" in various colours.
    Pigments by contrast are already a very fine powder and, I suspect. will prove more "user friendly" to me then Pastels.I'm new to this technique as well; I'll report results on my Under Construction" thread on the Albatros DV later.
Cheers,
Lance