Looming woodgrain disaster?

[Tony Haycock]

Hi guys.

I am hoping you can save me before I make a huge mistake. I have just made my first attempt at woodgraining on my WnW Albatros DVa and I think it might be about to go horribly wrong.

Oil paint has been used and it feels dry to the touch. I then applied Testors Dullcote and it has reacted to something. Luckily I was being careful and have only tried spraying one small piece (an engine-bearer).

I am guessing this could be one of three problems but I await advice from someone who knows more than I...

Did I put the clear on too thick, is the oil not dry enough or is Testors Dullcote lacquer not the right thing to be using? Or something else entirely? 

Thanks

Tony

[kornbeef]

Tony, maybe it was too quickly, oils may look and feel dry but often arent, I often just leave them a few days and use Klear after weathering & or dirtying in. Applying a mattish coat later on...
Another factor is "Was it aerosol or airbrush?" I've had disasters in the past using aerosols over even well dried oils, I destroyed a DR.i build in exactly that way. A fantastic crackled dried mud look, not quite what I was after.

Thankfully though you had sense to just try on one small area. unlike myself.


Keith

[Tony Haycock]

It was an aerosol.

Tomorrow will have a look for some Klear in the local supermarkets but don't fancy my chances. WIll give everything a few more days to dry before my next clear coat attempt.

[Tony Haycock]

Not everyone likes them, I know, but acrylics are very good for wood grain effects - just lay down a base color, then dip sponge in a thinned darker colour and wipe it on, wipe it a few more times until you like it, and it's dry in half an hour.

I was actually thinking that might work as I was brushing on the oils. I have a whole lot of oily Albatros bits now, so will save that technique for the RE8 or FE2 which are awaiting my attention.

[gcn]

I normally leave my oils for 4 days before applying a top coat of Tamiya clear coat mixed with various shades of clear orange, red or yellow to get the effect I want and touch wood  ive not had a problem.

[Pete Nottingham]

It was an aerosol.

Tomorrow will have a look for some Klear in the local supermarkets but don't fancy my chances. WIll give everything a few more days to dry before my next clear coat attempt.

Hi Tony, I doubt very much whether you will find any of the 'old formula' Klear, it has been out of production for a long time and bottles of it are like rockinghorse droppings and there seems to be mixed reports about the new Klear, you could possibly try coating in acrylic varnish, this has no effect on oil paints at all.

Cheers

Pete.

[Des]

I coat my dried oil paints with Humbrol Clear Coat, either gloss, satin or matt, I have never had a problem with a reaction with the oil paints, just my two cents worth 

Des.

[Ian from Doncaster]

Not everyone likes them, I know, but acrylics are very good for wood grain effects - just lay down a base color, then dip sponge in a thinned darker colour and wipe it on, wipe it a few more times until you like it, and it's dry in half an hour.

I found that enamels work too, in a similar way once the base acrylic is properly dried.  I leave the oils a minimum of 48 hours prior to coating with klear, often longer - 5 days is preferable.

[Tony Haycock]

I am thinking my problem is that the oils have not dried properly, so will leave everything for a few more days and try again. Fingers crossed - for my first attempt at 1/32 scale woodgraining (I have done 1/1 scale on the window surrounds of my vintage car and they look ok) I am pretty pleased with my efforts. Not as good as many of you experts out there, but for an enthusiastic amateur like me I am happy!

[lcarroll]

Not everyone likes them, I know, but acrylics are very good for wood grain effects - just lay down a base color, then dip sponge in a thinned darker colour and wipe it on, wipe it a few more times until you like it, and it's dry in half an hour.

Tony,
   I too use acrylics for woodgraining. Base coat in enamel, acrylics for grain with sponge or brush. Big advantage IMHO is if you don't like it just wipe it off (Water or very dilluted window cleaner - Windex) and try again and again til you get the result you want. My results are not world class like many on this site, but I like them. Also, it dries in minutes vs. days. Best thing I can recommend in this regard is practice on some scrap plastic or a left over bits from kits, no loss when it "goes south" which, for me, happens more often then not!
Cheers,
Lance