Clear coat over Mr. Metal Color?

[David 63]

I didn't see a separate section of this forum for asking questions about painting so I hope this is the right place. I sprayed Mr Metal Color aluminum on the cowling of my E-3 then taped it off in order to paint CDL. I noticed when I took the tape off of the Mr Metal Color that some of the aluminum came off on the tape (not enough to have bare plastic spots but enough to be concerned). So I coated the aluminum with dull cote lacquer and now the cowl looks gray instead of that nice, shiny aluminum that I had before. I'm going to re-paint the aluminum, but I need to know what I can use to coat over it so that it doesn't rub off on my hands or any tape I'd have to put over it and still preserve the shiny finish. I let the aluminum dry for a good week before i tried taping over it.
Dave

[iwik]

Hi!
Why not paint the CDL before and the metal color last?
Otherwise, maybe some gloss coat?
Ciao
Iwik

[eclarson]

Hi Dave,

I've done a fair amount of work with metalizers and may be able to help you.  First, a question - did you prime the cowling before applying the aluminum?   If not, get in the habit of doing so as it greatly improves the adherence of metal paints.  My primer of choice is Alclad's Gray Microfiller and Primer which can be buffed out to a shine before applying the metal.

As for a protective gloss coat, Alclad Aqua Gloss is the thing.   I've recently been experimenting with the new AK Xtreme Metal paints and am very impressed with them although Alclad is still my 1st choice for metal paints.  Anyway, this photo shows a spare part, primed with Alclad Gray then sprayed with AK Aluminum.  The forward half was then masked and a couple coats of Aqua Gloss airbrushed on to the back half.  You literally can not tell the difference between the glossed and unglossed sections once the Aqua Gloss has dried. 



Repeated attempts to get any of the paint to lift with masking tape failed to produce even a speck.

Hope this helps.

Cheers,
Eric

 

[Pgtaylorart]

I second what Eric has said. I've experimented with most of the metalizers on the market, especially the acrylic ones because I was trying to avoid the bad smells of lacquer. But the alclads by far gave me the best finish and were the easiest to work with. Just have good ventilation and you'll be ok.

George

[David 63]

I will probably paint colors before applying the metals because I usually have to order painting stuff online rather than being able to just go and pick it up at the local hobby shop but I will keep the method described for future projects. Thanks, Dave

[ermeio]

I had this problem of bad adhesion with metallic sometimes
Model master specific clear for metal shades solves the problem.
I do not have it at hand to check the reference, but it is not matt nor shiny it simply creates a protective coat and it is invisible

[Alexis]

Testors Model Master Metalizers sealer is what Ermeio is referring to . Works like a treat actual and won't dull the finishing . Testors dull coat lacquer is a no no for natural metal finishing even gloss coat will change the finish . Future will also work through the airbrush thinned with water and lightly applied .




Terri

[RAGIII]

I agree with the others about the Model Master Metalizer sealer. Great stuff. It was once my pre decaling clear coat of choice on all paints. Hold up well to handling and Oil washes.
RAGIII

[Des]

I use a lot of the Mr Metal Color range and learnt long time ago that you can't coat them with any type of clear, it defeats the whole purpose of the polished metallic finish that the paint provides.

Des.

[ALBATROS1234]

another way is how i do things .sometimes. i paint whatever metallic paint then and otther colors. i like to finish my models matt so i spray with dullcote,enuff coats so that the deals blend in and appear to be painted on and not a separate sticker just stuck on there. this always destroys the metallic effects. so what i do and have done is my last step is to use metallic pigment on a paint brush which has the bristles trimmed and buff the metal areas,masking the adjacent areas. i use the uschi powders now but i used to use model master buffing metallizers and used the techniques from the link below. this effect leaves metallic pigments imbedded in the paintbrush. so you just polish it up as your last step.

http://www.essmc.org.au/Natural_Metal_Finish.html

[Ian from Doncaster]

what i do and have done is my last step is to use metallic pigment on a paint brush which has the bristles trimmed and buff the metal areas,masking the adjacent areas.
http://www.essmc.org.au/Natural_Metal_Finish.html

This technique works well - whenever I paint a component with Mr Metal, I have a brush set aside for polishing.  I use the same brush which is now "seasoned" with metallic pigment.  I use it all the time to drybrush over any finish to give a metallic sheen or raised edges etc.

[ermeio]

Please all, be cautious with metallic powders, they are one of the most carcinogenic agents, especially the aluminium powders.