Author Topic: Oil paint question.  (Read 11444 times)

Offline JoeDxMB

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Oil paint question.
« on: June 16, 2012, 08:38:17 AM »
I decided to experiment with oil paints for wood color/grains and, I know next to nothing about oil paints.
 
What is the best thing to thin it with and for clean up? Is it linseed  oil?
Also, is it nessay to seal it in areas where it will not be handeled like in an interior/ cockpit, etc as long as you are satisfied with the look?

Offline kornbeef

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Re: Oil paint question.
« Reply #1 on: June 16, 2012, 09:20:21 AM »
Joe

Use  turps substitute or low odour thinners to thin or it will take a lifetime to dry, you may want to mix Liquin or a Gel medium (available from art shops) to accelerate the drying time. Generally people seal it with a clear coat or tinted coat yes but for an interior it would be okay as long as it hasnt dried tacky.

Hope this helps.

Keith
Never too old to learn sumfink noo

Offline JoeDxMB

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Re: Oil paint question.
« Reply #2 on: June 16, 2012, 11:21:51 AM »
OK...  I saw some  "Turpenoid" at the store I just  got my oil paints from.
They  gave me a coupon for 50% off  on any single item  in the store all next week starting this  sunday. So, I  will return  to  get some.
 
Thanks. :)
« Last Edit: June 16, 2012, 11:23:28 AM by JoeDxMB »

Offline gcn

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Re: Oil paint question.
« Reply #3 on: June 16, 2012, 08:29:02 PM »
Your local art shop should supply Winsor & Newton oils which are good quality oils. Get yourself some of the earth tones
such as the umbers and Sienna's raw and burnt and a cadmium yellow should suffice. Get their low odour thinners, they may even be odourless.  Once applied I'd tend to leave it for about 4 days to dry and then seal with an acrylic gloss tinted with yellows or oranges or red or smoke or any combo of the above to get the desired shade.

For clean up of brushes get a bottle of cheap as chips white spirit rather than using your more expensive thinner.

Offline RAGIII

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Re: Oil paint question.
« Reply #4 on: June 16, 2012, 09:10:28 PM »
As an alternative thinner I use Testors Model Master Airbrush thinner. it is hotter than Turpentine Substitutes and dries much more quickly. Still gives plenty of time for working with the oils. No need for additives to speed up drying time.
RAGIII
"A man has to know his limitations": Harry Callahan

"Don't slop it on" Lynda Geisler

Offline JoeDxMB

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Re: Oil paint question.
« Reply #5 on: June 17, 2012, 06:06:41 AM »
Your local art shop should supply Winsor & Newton oils which are good quality oils. Get yourself some of the earth tones
such as the umbers and Sienna's raw and burnt and a cadmium yellow should suffice. Get their low odour thinners, they may even be odourless.  Once applied I'd tend to leave it for about 4 days to dry and then seal with an acrylic gloss tinted with yellows or oranges or red or smoke or any combo of the above to get the desired shade.

For clean up of brushes get a bottle of cheap as chips white spirit rather than using your more expensive thinner.

To be honest, my preliminary  exprimentations with the very  inexpensive  "Reeves" oils  I got yielded some great results so far. I also already had some (Tamiya) clear orange, clear red  and  smoke  on hand that  I tried with great effect .

 I will try some white/mineral spirits as I  need some to flush out  my air brush  anyway.   

Thanks.  :)   
« Last Edit: June 17, 2012, 06:23:57 AM by JoeDxMB »

Offline Pete Nottingham

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Re: Oil paint question.
« Reply #6 on: June 17, 2012, 06:23:19 AM »
Joe

If your artshop sells Winsor & Newton oil paints, try their Griffin Alkyd Fast Drying oil colour, it dries overnight so you don't have to wait 4 or 5 days for it to dry like ordinary oils.

Cheers

Pete.

Offline JoeDxMB

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Re: Oil paint question.
« Reply #7 on: June 20, 2012, 08:47:49 AM »
Another question.........

Oil paint may be "dry" to the touch in a few days but, how long must you wait to seal it with whatever?
I asked

Offline GHE

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Re: Oil paint question.
« Reply #8 on: September 18, 2012, 02:32:33 AM »
Dear all !

There are water solulable oil paints out there, too. Most oil brands produce them.
Check them out.
Oil solulable Oils:
I take a piece of toilet paper (cleanex, paper..)  and put the oil paint on it to get rid of the oil;
I dilute the oil with petrol (and enamels , too) that you buy for cigarette lighters.
It evaporates fast, the oils dry faster (and matted enamels look really matt- take a toothpick
to get the paint out of the tin can and thin it with the petrol ).

Gunther
LZeppelin rocks!

Offline rolanddvi

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Re: Oil paint question.
« Reply #9 on: May 29, 2014, 09:02:27 AM »
I have also taken the plunge into oil paints. I have started my first WNW kit, a Sopwith Pup RNAS, and thought that now is the time. Bought some Windsor&Newton oils and also something called Japan Drier. I used some Burnt Sienna on a few small interior parts. Very interesting stuff to work with.

A question I have is : Is the Japan Drier comparable to the other drying agents mentioned?

Thanks,
Mike

Offline RAGIII

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Re: Oil paint question.
« Reply #10 on: May 29, 2014, 09:09:14 AM »
Yes, Japan dryer will do the trick. The one thing I strongly advise is do not use a wax Medium such as Dorlands. It speeds up drying but will crack over a period of years if you use just a tad too much in your mix... How do I know  :o

RAGIII
"A man has to know his limitations": Harry Callahan

"Don't slop it on" Lynda Geisler

Offline rolanddvi

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Re: Oil paint question.
« Reply #11 on: May 29, 2014, 11:15:16 AM »
RAGIII Thanks for the quick response. Back to the bench to do some more learning!!
Mike