Rudder decals

[LindsayT]

Hi all,

I'm hoping I can plumb the depths of experience on this forum to help out with a rookie problem. I've been having trouble getting my rudder decals to wrap around the edges and otherwise really look like they're painted on. Does anyone have any tips of the trade to take rudder decals to the next level? Or are the really nice looking rudders actually painted on with a careful mask job? I hope that's not too basic a question, but the none of the tutorials online seem to deal with rudders, specifically.

And if I can be really cheeky and slip in a related question, how do you get your roundels to really sink into the gap between the wing and aileron?

Much appreciated,

Lindsay

[ALBATROS1234]

i dont really understand the exact question on the rudders? as far as getting the roundels to sink in the aileron cracks. i set my decals in place, when they are pretty much dry ,ie they dont move but are still somewhat soft,maybe 10 min or so i take a brand new exacto blade and slice down the crevace. i then apply a bit of micro sol to the crack and it pulls the ends down into the crack. i later accent the divide with these dark brown india ink pens. but i have used a wash for this.

[Carpo]

My answer to this question is: Don't use decals. It can be a pain colour matching the stripes to the cockades (roundels) but it is a whole lot less painful than mucking around with decals.
Carpo

[gcn]

I tend to paint rather than using decals too.

Masking is easy as its straightlines as well.

[LindsayT]

Yes, sorry if that was a vague question. I was asking about how to get the decals to wrap arounD the edges. Red Baron's tips will be helpful. And thanks Albatros1234 for the tips on the aileron cracks. Much appreciated, everyone!

Lindsay

[Ian from Doncaster]

Hi Lindsay,

I struggled to get the decals to wrap round perfectly with my WNW RFC Pup.  I would therefore recommend painting the rudder if you can get a colour match.

The instructions for the Revell (ex Eduard) 1:48 Spad XIII recommend painting the outline of the rudder bars in the colour of the overlying decal, to fill any gaps left by the decals I expect. 

[kornbeef]

A method reccomended by WNW themselves and that I use is simple and reasonably safe.

Use warm water to soak and apply  the decal.   Then once smoothed into place Use Kitchen towel the J cloth type... Not the paper type. Soak this in as hot water as your fingers can bear, wring out the excess.
Press it down firmly over the decal holding it tightly in a wad that pushes the decal stretching it around the curve. This works to mould decals to uneven surfaces, I used it on my pup to wrap the decals around the rudder and it worked perfectly. Do one side, let it dry before doing the other.  Works well for moulding decals over stitching, bolts etc a treat too.  Experiment with scraps  Too hot can cause the surface to crinkle but it's nothing a little practice can't stop.

I've stopped using sol and set now prefering this to seal down even flat decals

Keith

[pepperman42]

Check the Hyperscale Airfix forum for the "puddle method" It involves Future floor wax. Future is used by many here too as a gloss  coat.

Steve

[Trackpad]

Hi all,
I'm hoping I can plumb the depths of experience on this forum to help out with a rookie problem. I've been having trouble getting my rudder decals to wrap around the edges and otherwise really look like they're painted on. Does anyone have any tips of the trade to take rudder decals to the next level? Much appreciated,
Lindsay

Hi, Lindsay,

When I use rudder decals, I apply both sides at the same time, ensuring that both decals line up accurately along the rudder edges. The decal "overlaps" thus tend to adhere to each other and leave an"edge" around the actual rudder. The idea then is to do nothing until the decals dry completely, at least a day or so. Then, using a new craft blade, you can gently cut away the overlap, thus leaving the rudder completely covered. If by chance you get a small tear or break in the decal, reapply your setting solvent and let it dry out again. Tiny touchups with paint will also heal any minor wounds. This method eliminates the "wrap-around" requirement.

This 1/72nd scale Pup was done in the 1970's. Note the rudder and elevator striping: they were done using this method:



Hope this helps. Good luck with your build! 

[LindsayT]

That's great, Trackpad, thanks for the tip. And thanks to everyone else that helped out, too. This rookie appreciates it greatly!

Lindsay