Modeling Clear Center Sections in 1/72nd

[WD]

Forumites,
               Apologies for my absence of late, a lot of real life going on. Anyway, I have resurrected my Eduard 1/72nd Nieuport build. I have had to take different directions as things develop one way, and then another. As it stands now, I'm going to try to recreate Dorme's last Nie.17, and it had a clear center section.

Now, how to deal with this? Hmmmmm,  Eduard gives you a decal to use, and I can see that working. However, just how clear were these things? My first car was a convertible (yes, I was very lucky and blessed as a teen), and it had a new top on it. Even when new and shiny, that celluloid/plastic rear window was never as clear as my windshield, and it didn't take long sitting in the school parking lot everyday for it to get cloudy. (It was garaged at home.) I remember the rear windows of other convertibles being the same way then.
I plan on spraying a final semi-gloss/semi-matte/satin finish on the kit because in this tiny scale I don't think a gloss coat accurately reflects a doped finish, much less one that has weathered a bit. I'm thinking this type of coating will somewhat frost or cloud over over the center section, and I'm ok with that.

Your thoughts and opinions?

Warren D

[Flute]

I think that'd work just fine but haven't tried it. When I've done 1/48th Nieuports in the past I've used sellotape, and IMHO the fuzziness caused by the sticky layer serves the same purpose. You do need to cover the section both top and bottom of course, or else it'll be a dust magnet.

Paul.

[lcarroll]

Warren,
     I've tried everything from clear styrene to salvaged bubble packaging and more but never really been happy with the results until a few years ago. The Acetate sheeting supplied with many kits using CA adhesive turns out really well and appears to "age" just fine. I keep leftover material and trimmings for future builds.
There's a nice clear photo of a set installed on a Copper State Nieuport 17 in a post of mine in "Show us your Nieuport 17 of 14 June 23, 1:32 Scale but I'm sure would work in all scales.
Cheers,
Lance

[herbarnold99]

Clear decal sheet works, but it's fragile!

[WD]

The Acetate sheeting supplied with many kits

Lance, thanks, but I'm not tracking here. What sheeting supplied with what kits??

Warren D

[macsporran]

Yes, I'm with Lance.
The cellophane wrapping on many goods - some kits, fag packets, etc is ideal.
Sandy

[DaddyO]

I used Scotch brand clear tape on my Nieuport 17 and it seems fine after a few years on so I'll use the same on my current Sopwith Strutter when I get around to that part. As Flute (Paul) mentions the glue on the inside does give it  a touch of fuzziness which works okay in this scale IMO. You could try a very thin wash of oil paint over the top to yellow it a bit, but I'd rather leave it clear

Camo Nieuport based by , on Flickr

[WD]

OK, thanks guys, for all of your help and suggestions.  I knew I could count on y'all for help and great advice.

Do you just cut a piece of tape and let it span the whole wing?

Warren D

[DaddyO]

OK, thanks guys, for all of your help and suggestions.  I knew I could count on y'all for help and great advice.

Do you just cut a piece of tape and let it span the whole wing?

Warren D

Hi Warren.
For mine I completed the wing entirely then cut a piece of slightly oversize tape and got it in position and pressed down tightly. Once I was happy I used a brand new scalpel blade to carefully trim it about 0.5 - 1 mm from the edge of the clear bit which gives a frame effect. 

Paul     

[WD]

Thanks Paul!

Warren D

[lcarroll]

The Acetate sheeting supplied with many kits

Lance, thanks, but I'm not tracking here. What sheeting supplied with what kits??

Warren D

    The sheets that Special Hobby supply with many of their kits with windscreens for example are good. Better is cellophane salvaged from product wrappers as Sandy mentions.
Cheers,
Lance

[Flute]

What Paul said. Sellotape is very easy to trim in situ so long as you use a fresh bladey thing.

Paul.

[WD]

Thanks all. The main thing I fear about the cello-tape is that after I cut it (assuming I do a good job of that) is that in lifting up the part of it I don't want, I lift up the paint.

Warren D.

[DaddyO]

Didn't find that to be an issue Warren, but I didn't try and cut right through so much as score almost through and then folding the waste tape flat back on itself to tear off rather than pull it away from the surface. Obviously the surface is completely sealed and varnished first

Try it on a test piece first to see how you get on
P

[Flute]

I've used the same technique on Sopwith and SE5a pulley inspection panels, and haven't had the paint pull up, but that's using enamel paint on primered plastic. Can't vouch for acrylics I'm afraid, and also don't know if the amount of stick on American sellotape/cellotape is similar to UK stuff or not If you want to try it I guess you'd better experiment on a bit of scrap plastic first. Good luck Warren.

Paul.