1:32nd scale Bristol F.2b

[Nigttr]

I’ve seen a few post war photos from 1920’s and 1930’s that clearly show this mechanism (e.g. Windsock datafile special vol2 page 15) but like PrzemoL nothing from the WW1 period.

[GazzaS]

The paint and weathering look awesome!

[KiwiZac]

It is true that it is present in the TVAL replica.

I'm not sure which aircraft you're referring to but this one is a restored original:
DSC_2115 by Zac Yates, on Flickr

[Mike Norris (UK)]

Hi all,
I agree that wartime photographs etc of the Bristol F.2b showing the radiator shutter control are virtually non-existent.
I believe the Vintage Aviation Ltd aircraft could be a post-war built machine.
The Shuttleworth Collection’s  Bristol F.2b, serial No: D8096 was built during the war in 1918, although it did not see war time service.
This aircraft has the shutter control fitted, although again, could have been retro-fitted.
The only reference I found (Windsock Data File No.4 by J.M.Bruce) states that the early production aircraft, among other differences, did not have shutter controls.
However, later 1917 built F.2b aircraft did have radiator shutters and so presumably, must have had some form of shutter controls.
If so, it would seem the were possibly internal and so not visible.

As with most WW1 aircraft subject matter, it's not easy to determine for sure what type of controls were fitted and when.
In the event, I chose to add these controls more as a point of interest rather than as historical fact,

Mike

[Dutch522]

Since I'll be building the WnW Brisfit too one of these days I spent some time last night going through my references, and am wondering if this photo shows the shutter controls?



It's from Vol I of the Datafile Special, on pg 20, photo 33, showing A7198 from No 1 Sqdn, AFC, sporting its white/PC.10 asymmetric camo scheme. Hardly conclusive evidence of the rig's existence during the war—in fact it looks like a lot of the pictures in Tim Dinsdale's books about the Loch Ness Monster I read as a kid—but it's certainly food for thought.

Dutch

[Nigttr]

I agree with Mike, in the absence of any conclusive proof, it adds a point of interest, so why not add it. I have a post war WNW  Brisfit to build, so will definitely add it.

[Mike Norris (UK)]

Hi Dutch,
Yes - there are not many good and clear photographs of wartime aircraft.
Most are grainy and making out finer details is virtually impossible.
The only clear photographs are those of museum, reproduction or replica aircraft.
Sadly, many of those may not be totally authentic, so can't be relied upon.
At the end of the day it's a model and only a representation of the actual aircraft,

Mike

[Mike Norris (UK)]

Hi all,
I've rigged the following flight controls cables and bracing wires:
Twin rudder cables, twin elevator control cables, single tail plane adjuster cables, upper fin bracing wires and tail plane bracing wires.
Materials used were:
‘GasPatch’ Elite Accessories metal turnbuckles Type C (1:48th scale).
'‘Stroft GTM’ Mono-Filament 0.08 mm diameter line.
'MFH’ 0.4 mm diameter Clear tube (P-957).

Now it's onto more construction work,

Mike

[NigelR]

Wow, that's amazing rigging work. Are you using the MFH tube instead of metal tubing to secure the rigging wires (ie where you feed the rigging line back on itself through the tube)?

[Mike Norris (UK)]

Wow, that's amazing rigging work. Are you using the MFH tube instead of metal tubing to secure the rigging wires (ie where you feed the rigging line back on itself through the tube)?

Hi Nigel,
Yes, exactly that.
I thought I'd try it out instead of using metal tubing.


Mike

[Tim Mixon]

Impressive rigging Mike. I’m eagerly anticipating the finish with the figures.

[Mike Norris (UK)]

Hi all,
I've rigged the crossed bracing wires for the landing gear and between the wing and fuselage.
Materials used were:
‘Steelon ’ mono-filament of 0.12 mm diameter line.
'Model Factory Hiro’ 0.4 mm diameter Clear tube (P-957).

Mike

[Dutch522]

"Vow!" as my Ukrainian girlfriend used to say, that's impressive work. Are you going to paint the Hiro tubing or leave it clear? It hardly looks as if it needs color, given that it should blend right in at 0X magnification.

Dutch

[NigelR]

Hi Nigel,
Yes, exactly that.
I thought I'd try it out instead of using metal tubing.

IMO it looks better than metal tubing. I find that can look too obvious and detracts from the effect of the rigging (considering there was no such tubing on the real thing in most cases). I think I will have to get some to give it a try......

[Mike Norris (UK)]

Hi all,
I've added the fuel tank pressure pipe from the 'Rotherham' wind driven pump.
The pipe is 0.275 mm diameter Copper wire (annealed),

Mike