Author Topic: Eduard ProfiPACK Nieuport 21 (Read 9850 times)

Monty · « **Reply #15 on:** January 25, 2021, 12:55:18 AM »

Oooh... A Nieuport build! I will be watching this one, Kevin! This is pretty small compared to your latest build, but such a great subject! Getting the engine under the A-model Nieuport cowling called for brutal and extreme engine surgery for my build... I may have to pay for that one day! Regards, Marc

Radarman · « **Reply #16 on:** January 28, 2021, 02:03:03 AM »

Hello everyone,
Here's a small update. I've been modifying the upper wing centre section to better represent the structure
seen through the clear covering. I'll add some structural stiffening cables after painting and before covering
with the clear sections.

This is a easy improvement that adds some nice detail.

Happy Modeling,
Kevin

RAGIII · « **Reply #17 on:** January 28, 2021, 02:24:23 AM »

That is exceptional work on enlarging and detailing the clear panel! I am of course, looking forward to more updates

RAGIII

Alexis · « **Reply #18 on:** January 28, 2021, 02:39:13 AM »

An easy fix with out standing results . What are you using for the clear and how will this be attached ? This should sit flush with the wing surface ? Inquiring minds want to know

Also don't forget to square up the bell crank opening on the right side of the wing ....

Alexis

yes i know question after question !

Radarman · « **Reply #19 on:** January 28, 2021, 02:50:47 AM »

Quote from: RAGIII on January 28, 2021, 02:24:23 AM

That is exceptional work on enlarging and detailing the clear panel! I am of course, looking forward to more updates
RAGIII

Thanks RAGIII.

Quote from: Alexis on January 28, 2021, 02:39:13 AM

An easy fix with out standing results . What are you using for the clear and how will this be attached ? This should sit flush with the wing surface ? Inquiring minds want to know Also don't forget to square up the bell crank opening on the right side of the wing ....

Thanks Alexis, I think I'll try very thin, clear cellophane and attach it with Micoscale liquid tape. Thanks, also, for the tip about the bell crank slot.

Take it easy and Happy Modeling,
Kevin

Alexis

hrcoleman66 · « **Reply #20 on:** January 28, 2021, 07:31:47 AM »

Quote from: Alexis on January 24, 2021, 01:29:56 AM

Quote from: hrcoleman66 on January 23, 2021, 04:58:10 PM
Quote from: Alexis on January 23, 2021, 09:20:59 AM
Well Kevin , I hope that you are able to fit the engine , But Woman's intuition tells me , and yes it was a good conversation Engine will not fit even with the cowl thinned down , a fair bit of the cylinders will acquire removal .

Alexis

Implying that the Kit supplied engine is under scale?

Cheers,

Hugh

I guess in this case .." size does matter " !

Yes the kit supply engine is under scale , better suited for 1/43 - 1/45 scale aircraft . Only the out side dim of the model are to 48 scale , engines and cockpits aren't do to plastic thickness . More so on older kits , new kits are better now with the latest mold tech .

The Vector engine is true 48 scale so once the engine is assembled the outer dim will be the same with the outer dim of the fuselage ...cowl will not fit even with thinning , lower part of each cylinder will need to be removed 2.5 mm - 3 mm depending on how much the cowl was thinned .

Alexis

Yes Terri,

I well recall the plastic in these older kits! And the basic nature of the engines.

There's a couple of ways to "fix" this...

1. thin the cowl from inside (do you have a hobby lathe Radarman?)
2. remove the valve detail from the cylinders that will be enclosed by the cowl... Leaving the ones (four) that are visible entire.

Cheers,

Hugh

Alexis · « **Reply #21 on:** January 29, 2021, 01:47:38 AM »

You are absolutely correct Hugh , cheers!

Alexis

Bughunter · « **Reply #22 on:** January 29, 2021, 02:07:41 AM »

Quote from: hrcoleman66 on January 28, 2021, 07:31:47 AM

2. remove the valve detail from the cylinders that will be enclosed by the cowl... Leaving the ones (four) that are visible entire.

Hugh, that is a brute method!

It will not work, if the engine should be able to rotate on the model (as it usually does on mine).

Cheers,
Frank

Alexis · « **Reply #23 on:** January 29, 2021, 02:37:40 AM »

Not really Frank , Hugh does have an excellent suggestion and is valid . One that I have done in the past before with resin engines .

In the end it really is Kevins choices on how he wants to tackle this part of the build and I do look forward on seeing how the end results are by his talented hands .

Alexis

My apologies for leading the conversation a stray , away from Kevins build .

gbrivio · « **Reply #24 on:** January 29, 2021, 06:30:47 AM »

Nice improvement on central upper wing section. Looking forward to next updates.
Ciao
Giuseppe

hrcoleman66 · « **Reply #25 on:** January 29, 2021, 08:21:57 AM »

Quote from: Bughunter on January 29, 2021, 02:07:41 AM

Quote from: hrcoleman66 on January 28, 2021, 07:31:47 AM
2. remove the valve detail from the cylinders that will be enclosed by the cowl... Leaving the ones (four) that are visible entire.
Hugh, that is a brute method! It will not work, if the engine should be able to rotate on the model (as it usually does on mine).

Cheers,
Frank

Wow! Then I would suggest that thinning the cowl is the only option.

Hugh

Bughunter · « **Reply #26 on:** January 29, 2021, 09:06:59 PM »

Yes, this always causes surprise at exhibitions and allows an explanation of the rotary engine that most people have never heard of.
It also makes transport easier, as I can turn the propeller to a non-threatening position.

Sorry Kevin, I do not want to hijack your build report!

Cheers,
Frank

Radarman · « **Reply #27 on:** January 30, 2021, 07:59:20 AM »

Hello everyone and thanks for the advice and encouragement you've provided.

As far as the cowling and engine go, I was planing to use a Vector Le Rhone 9C that I had. I assembled it but was
not happy with the result. I found that the intake tubes were a little too long and didn't have the correct twist to
allow them to meet the cylinder heads a the proper place. I'll save it for a closed cowl, perhaps a Sopwith Pup build.

So, I've taken Frank's advice, and will use a Small Stuff Le Rhone instead. I've been working on thinning down the interior
of the cowling, starting with a Dremel and completing the task by sanding by hand.

I've also started on the fuselage by removing the headrest behind the cockpit. The removal left a small area to be filled once parts are closed up.

That's it for now. Have a good weekend and Happy Modeling,

Kevin

RAGIII · « **Reply #28 on:** January 31, 2021, 01:33:27 AM »

You have done an incredible job thinning down the cowling. Looking great!
RAGIII

Bughunter · « **Reply #29 on:** January 31, 2021, 02:16:27 AM »

Perfectly done Kevin!
I'm sure that the amount of removed plastic is enough to allow even a rotation of the Small Stuff engine.

I do not know, if you have built already a Small Stuff rotary. If not, please check out the following instruction page (the link is also on the manual page):
https://www.smallstuffmodels.com/p/buildinganengine.html

Cheers,
Frank