1:48 Eduard Albatros D.III

[smperry]

It is always a good plan to test drive an idea. I went and applied homemade ply decal over the molded details. It took a while and several applications of Micro Sol but it went down. I had forgotten that they work best when applied over a glossy Future finish. that helps greatly with  the sticking down process.
I was unsatisfied with how cutting around the details worked. This clear film of decal material is very stretchy, almost like Parafilm, so if the cut isn't completely through and completely around a little stretchy string of clear decal film results and pulls up part of the decal you want to stay. That much is due to the brand of decal paper, however it does not explain everything I didn't like. I dragged the Blue Max LVG C.VI out of the case and sadly that one, done exactly the same way 15 years ago, is quite acceptable. It would seem, (read it's glaringly obvious), that my dexterity with a #11 blade has deteriorated over the years. So I'm going to go with Frank's idea of scraping a spot of decal so there is a PE/CA/Plastic bond not a PE/CA/Decal/Plastic bond no stronger than a stuck down decal.

Here is the whole process which will be much easier applying the decals after the details get sanded off.

Should have sprayed a gloss over the primer.


It goes all wild and curly until the Micro Sol starts to soften it.


It gets better as it softens. This is where a Future/Pledge base would have helped.


Here it is suckered down. Another dose or two of Micro Sol and several hours drying would have gotten the decal down tighter.


First cut. Grandpa shouldn't play with sharp toys.


Cut out, painted and touched up the touch ups.


After a couple coats of orange tinted Future. I've seen worse, but I have seen way more better.


Good thing this was just a test drive. I'm really bummed about my deteriorating skill with a blade and brush, so I will have to compensate. In this case I will alter the method I used on several models that won awards to one more suited for my currently diminished skillset. Thanks for the idea Frank.

BTW, I would really appreciate any feedback on the gray/green color I mixed. Lighter? Darker? Greener? Grayer? LMK please.

Also what is a good source of decal material these days?
Thanks
sp

[RAGIII]

JMHO but as to the grey I would go lighter and greener.
RAGIII

[smperry]

Thanks Rick. I did and I like it much better.

I have been applying ply decals and it is a much more tedious a process than I recall. That is due to the elastic nature of the Testors decal material. It is a slow process because the material can't be trimmed until they are nearly dry. Here are some photos of the process. Please do not judge the method until all the ply is on and I have sprayed several coats of tinted sealer.



Above, the second panel of decal material is butted up against the back of the first one with some overlap on the other three sides. That gets trimmed when it is drier.


Here is a perfect example of how annoying this can be. judicious use of Future/Pledge as a setting solution will relax the material and eventually stick it down. Patience and persistance pays well here.


Here we have more progress. Note some panel lines have received a brown wash and others still await . Once all the ply panels are on, trimmed and dry, the cockpit, engine and cowl will be masked and several coats of yellow tinted future will get sprayed drying between each coat. Then it will be time to add the PE details.
sp

[Alexis]

I like it , looking forward on the clear coating 


Terri

[RAGIII]

Looking Spiffy SP! I like how the frain decal is moving along. Should look Fantastic with the Tamiya clear Yellow!
RAGIII

[smperry]

Well here it is. Three coats of clear yellow, mixed kinda heavy on the tint and one of clear.
I'm happy with the result and it is representative of the 4 or 5 I did this way back in the day.
sp

[RAGIII]

I Love the results SP!
RAGIII

[smperry]

Glad you like it Rick.

What looks like some kind of paint smudge or blemish on the second panel from the nose is a light trick. I saw it and went full throttle out to the shop to see and there is nothing there, just a lighting thing. That was a relief since I had already ripped off 5 decal panels when I tried to mask for the green tail. I was not in the mood to replace any more decals.
sp

[FAf]

It's looking good! Interesting approach.
/Fredrik

[smperry]

Thanks FAf
It is a fiddly approach, but I find the result pleasing. I would rather spend a couple of days doing fiddly than wait a couple of days for oils to dry. I can't not mess with it no matter how many times I smack my hands.

I just had a near miss with a disaster. Evidently time was not kind to these Eduard decals. Super thin and they prefer to crinkle up when pushed and poked rather than slide around as they should. This Limited Edition kit has both a paint mask as well as decals for the red outline on the Jasta 5 green tail. This little set to with the fuselage stripe has at least decided the question of which to use. I'm going with the mask.

Next up is applying the little PE hatches and Louvers as soon as the paint on them dries well.
,
Question: On these Albatross camo painted wings, (Lt green, Reddish Brown, Dk green in this case), were the edges between the colors hard or slightly soft?

sp

[RAGIII]

,
Question: On these Albatross camo painted wings, (Lt green, Reddish Brown, Dk green in this case), were the edges between the colors hard or slightly soft?

sp

In 1/72nd I would go hard line. There is some controversy over the subject anyway. Some like Me think it was a tight soft pattern, and some say hard all the way. JMHO,
RAGIII

[smperry]

Thanks for the response Rick. I kinda agree. I think they sprayed the camo and in 1:48 it would look slightly soft. Why? Well the Germans were more technologically advanced than other countries for one and the blockade was hindering the supply of pigments which made paint dear, hence the use of dyed loz later on. Spraying uses much less paint than brushing, so I'm taking a wild guess that they likely sprayed the camo colors.

I think a paper mask held a mm or so off the surface and then sprayed lightly straight down to avoid blasting paint under the lifted mask should do. I have a box full of Glencoe Albatrossen so again, a test drive of the idea is in order to see how it looks.

Anyone know better, please jump in and set me straight.
sp

[smperry]

Here it is with the PE bits stuck on with Future. Had to mess with the color on the photo some, but this is pretty darn close to what it looks like in person.

Some touch up is in order on the white part of the stripe and a final clear sealer coat needs to happen once I get all the PE bits on the other side stuck down.
sp

[kensar]

Shaping up nicely, SP.  The PE parts are an improvement.

[RAGIII]

Outstanding results SP! I love the scheme and the PE looks terrific!
RAGIII