Author Topic: 1:48 Eduard Albatros D.III (Read 15669 times)

smperry · « **Reply #45 on:** May 22, 2020, 04:32:23 AM »

Ken and Rick, thanks, I'm not the biggest fan of PE, but these bits really work well on this model.

I managed to get the guns made and installed, the windscreen attached and the exhausts on the engine.

Now I am a bit annoyed because the mold lines are still visible on the ammo chutes and the exhaust after having scraped with a #11 blade and sanded with a stick. I thought for sure I had nailed them and then my 12 megapixel Nikon tattletale showed them right up like they had never been touched. (Resulting blue language scared the dog, but didn't do anything to the mold lines.)

So how do the experts deal with mold lines on small parts? I find scraping only works until the parts being treated are small and delicate enough to be hard to hold firmly. Pretty much the same sanding. Again holding the part limits the size of part I can effectively use my Flexi-File. Other than making narrower sanding sticks, which I will do, anyone have any effective techniques for loosing these pesky lines.

sp

Bughunter · « **Reply #46 on:** May 22, 2020, 06:10:29 AM »

Your speed is impressive! Shortly not looked at and the body is already finished

Scraping and sanding, the rest is done by the primer.

Cheers,
Frank

FAf · « **Reply #47 on:** May 22, 2020, 07:03:22 AM »

I second Frank on the mold lines. The word grain is looking good.
/Fredrik

edit: wood grain makes more sense 😊

RAGIII · « **Reply #48 on:** May 22, 2020, 08:37:20 AM »

Wow SP you are Moving right along! As for the seam, is it visible to the Mk. ! Eyeball? I guess you can go back anf do more sanding but if I can't see it without Magnification I don't worry too much. Then again I am not a Master entering contests

RAGIII

smperry · « **Reply #49 on:** May 22, 2020, 09:01:52 AM »

Rick
I'm no master and my contest days are long behind me. It is that one of my buttons best not mashed is making the effort to do something and then turn around and it is undone or not really done. Ever inadvertently bump your head on an open cupboard door? I get that same "wanna slap that door off it's hinges" reaction when I think I have dealt with seams or mold lines and they still show up.
sp

Alexis · « **Reply #50 on:** May 22, 2020, 09:58:41 AM »

Wow , this is a big advancement in progress ! The wood effect turned out not to shabby at all SP , very attractive .

Seams are no joy indeed and to posse their problems when cleaning them up . I use different # blades not just # 11 , depends what I'm cleaning . Priming the area with brush ( fast drying paint ) , touch up what needs to be redone . Micro files work wonders in tight corners where blade just won't do . For holding small parts , I clean them will still on the trees , less handling ( less chance of breakage or at least in my case ) . I also use a squadron seam scraper it's a good 30 years old now and is still sharp . Best way is find what works for you .

Terri

smperry · « **Reply #51 on:** May 22, 2020, 10:44:28 AM »

Thanks Terri
Some good advice there. I have a bunch of small files, I guess my brain had them filed under metal work and not plastic. Doh! I do have a few different shaped Xacto blades, I should dig them out and keep them handy. I have no idea what a Squadron seam scraper is so I will go look that up as soon as I log out. I used to have what amounted to a very small garden hoe that was used to scrape seams. It grew legs and went on walkabout years ago.

Primarily I need to look harder. It's not like I don't know every single injection molded part ever produced has a mold line.

You can barely tell the lines are there in the ammo chutes and will never see them when the top wing goes on. I was able to scrape and repaint the exhaust with good results.

sp

smperry · « **Reply #52 on:** May 22, 2020, 02:57:08 PM »

After much scraping filing and sanding of the already "cleaned up" U/C struts, I finally got it up on it's legs.

I have been putting off the separation and posing of the control surfaces, but now I'm out of things I can do without the surfaces being posed.
sp

RAGIII · « **Reply #53 on:** May 23, 2020, 12:33:05 AM »

Looking Sharp SP! Have fun with the separation of the control surfaces!
RAGIII

GazzaS · « **Reply #54 on:** May 23, 2020, 08:33:55 PM »

OMG. my favorite D.III scheme! You're rocking it!

smperry · « **Reply #55 on:** May 24, 2020, 05:45:33 AM »

I know I said I thought a softer edge on the camo was more likely, but I did some looking and the photos I saw where the camo scheme actyally showed seem a fairly hard line. It's what I get for thinking, I'm used to it.

This is my standard method for masking wings. Draw outline on metal bench top. Cover with tape. Draw separation lines. Cut lines. Peel and mask over base coat color and spray. Enough of the pencil transfers to the tape, so it makes positioning easier. Also the sticking down on the metal reduces the tack.
sp

RAGIII · « **Reply #56 on:** May 24, 2020, 11:50:02 AM »

The pattern and colors are outstanding SP!
RAGIII

FAf · « **Reply #57 on:** May 24, 2020, 03:35:08 PM »

Good idea with the masking tape! It really doesn't have to be any more difficult to make and use paint masks.
/Fredrik

lone modeller · « **Reply #58 on:** May 26, 2020, 06:10:43 AM »

I have a bit remss and not looked in recently. The fuselage is a cracker - super wood finish and very colourful markings. You certainly have made rapid progress with this.

Stephen.

RichieW · « **Reply #59 on:** May 26, 2020, 06:17:56 AM »

Looking good SP, love the colour scheme. Your camouflage masking technique has worked perfectly.

The wooden fuselage looks like the real thing, this all looking terrific!