Author Topic: Revell 1:28 Spad XIII as Luke's plane, at least the one he was photographed near (Read 24972 times)

smperry · « **Reply #135 on:** May 09, 2020, 11:30:35 AM »

Cowl ring and radiator front.

Strut selection. Kit piece pinned, Paper, wire and white glue, Manila paper, wire and white glue. Split, carved and pinned bamboo.

I like the bamboo, but those H struts, which are more flying wire supports than struts, are going to be trouble carving out of bamboo. I may have to try refining and pinning the kit pieces. We shall see.

sp

smperry · « **Reply #136 on:** May 09, 2020, 12:57:22 PM »

Here is the kit piece refined and pinned. The rigging thread holes in the horizontal bars were plugged with 30 thou rod and a drop of liquid cement. The strut was scraped and sanded to get rid of ejector pin marks and general chunkiness. I'm thinking the old 1950s mold makers must have been paid by the injector pin because there are a whole bunch of them and not much thought given to hiding them. I'm happy with the refined kit piece and I believe I will go with bamboo mainplanes and the refined kit pieces for the Hs. The missing little nubs where the crossbar joins the strut will be replaced with stretched sprue before painting.

sp

RLWP · « **Reply #137 on:** May 09, 2020, 06:55:47 PM »

In terms of bangs for your buck, finding a way to thin down the horizontal bit of the H would be well worth while

I'm not sure why SPAD dropped the simple bar they used in the A and went for the more shapely ones in the later planes

Richard

GazzaS · « **Reply #138 on:** May 09, 2020, 08:49:27 PM »

That is an interesting strut shape. Any idea what 30 thou rod is in millimenters?

RLWP · « **Reply #139 on:** May 09, 2020, 08:55:48 PM »

Quote from: GazzaS on May 09, 2020, 08:49:27 PM

That is an interesting strut shape. Any idea what 30 thou rod is in millimenters?

0.75mm

It's an easy conversion - 0.040" is roughly 1mm.

0.030" rod is also 1" full size - I find working out what it would be full size handy when I'm scratchbuilding

Richard

RAGIII · « **Reply #140 on:** May 09, 2020, 10:00:55 PM »

Your Struts all look usable but I do like the Bamboo the best! Your cowling looks Terrific SP!! I was hoping you would pave the way showing me how to make that "H" strut. I may end up with Alternate Plan "B" on Mine

RAGIII

RLWP · « **Reply #141 on:** May 09, 2020, 10:23:51 PM »

Quote from: RAGIII on May 09, 2020, 10:00:55 PM

I may end up with Alternate Plan "B" on Mine
RAGIII

https://www.aviafrance.com/spad-s-xxii-aviation-france-7574.htm

Richard

RAGIII · « **Reply #142 on:** May 10, 2020, 12:19:32 AM »

Quote from: RLWP on May 09, 2020, 10:23:51 PM

Quote from: RAGIII on May 09, 2020, 10:00:55 PM
I may end up with Alternate Plan "B" on Mine
RAGIII

https://www.aviafrance.com/spad-s-xxii-aviation-france-7574.htm

Richard

That would be more like Alternate Plan "XXX"
RAGIII

RichieW · « **Reply #143 on:** May 10, 2020, 02:42:14 AM »

Great to have tried several options, I also like the bamboo struts most but they all look good.
My copy of Scale Model Aircraft in Plastic Card arrived today, just settling down with a cup of tea to have a read. Thanks for the recommendation, it looks just the ticket.

smperry · « **Reply #144 on:** May 10, 2020, 03:27:18 AM »

Glad you got the book Richie. You're going to be scratch building something soon.

Rick, the lack of a viable plan B for the H struts is one of the the things that looked so good to me about the refined kit piece.

Using the paper folded over wire and white glue method it would be easy to make the vertical members, however I do not see any way to attach the cross member other than a CA butt joint. You would have to get precisely in the center otherwise the rigging X it supports won't match up, not to mention getting the exact length right...6 times in your case. Carving would be even more fiddly, though you might be able to pin the cross member with just a tiny bit of pin exposed it locate in a dent made by a scribing tool on the vertical pieces. You can just clean up the kit pieces with a lot less trouble and still preserve the inherent measurements of the piece.

sp

jeroen_R90S · « **Reply #145 on:** May 10, 2020, 04:43:40 AM »

Looks good on the picture, though! With some decals it helps to have warm (or sometimes hot, like with some Japanese decals such as Hasegawa) water, because it seems decals react with warmth and become softer, and less prone to cracking and tearing.
If they have thick glue films (Hasegawa comes to mind) it also helps to dissolve that and make them look less thick on the model. I even made some Roden decals work somewhat better just by using hot water.

On the other hand, I've never worked with (older?) CSM decals so it could be that only the extra decal film might save them... I'm keeping my fingers crossed the rest will go on OK!

smperry · « **Reply #146 on:** May 10, 2020, 05:52:13 AM »

Thanks Jeoren
I can use all the luck I can get. The warm water sounds like a good idea and I will give it a try. I expect it will work whether or not I use film, so I will use a light coat of decal film and a large dose of careful just to be safe.
sp

Alexis · « **Reply #147 on:** May 11, 2020, 05:59:15 AM »

Nice job on the rad and cowl ring SP

Terri

smperry · « **Reply #148 on:** May 11, 2020, 09:01:26 AM »

Thank you Terri.

I looked at a lot of Spad pics to get an idea of what the linen bindings on the struts looked like and finally decided the vast majority were varnished wood with linen bindings doped or varnished over. They ended up sort of semi see through and did not offer up a whole lot of visual contrast. I did some testing and was unable to get the effect I wanted with decal material or paint. Then the light bulb went off and I cut some small strips of tracing paper and soaked them in Future , then stuck them down. Once dry they got sprayed with orange tinted Future.
sp

RAGIII · « **Reply #149 on:** May 11, 2020, 09:06:46 AM »

The bindings have turned out beautifully SP!
RAGIII