Simplified turnbuckle methods?

[Softscience]

Hi all,

I have some splainin' to do. Its been some while since I posted anything here, and there is one main reason for that. I made a complete hash out of a Wingnut Wings kit. These blasted things are supposed to be idiot proof, but I guess when they made me, the debuted a more perfect idiot! 


Things went wrong when it came to rigging, and more specifically things went wrong when it came time to loop line through the little cylinders and stuff. I have a slight problem in that one of my eyes is much weaker than the other, and so I don't have good depth perception when it comes to small things (I'm fully functional otherwise, I can walk, run, drive a car, etc. - though it does partly explain why I'm absolute crap at tennis and baseball). So threading the rigging is very difficult for me. The problem is not correctable with lenses, so using a magnifier doesn't help.

I have to admit that its a bit embarrassing to admit to this, and I'm not asking for your pitty, but rather for ideas to help me come up with alternate methods and approaches. Its much easier for me to do rigging the old-school way - by drilling holes through the wings, and drawing lines tightly and snipping them off after the glue dries. This looks fine in 1/72, and I would argue even in 1/48. But I'm not sure how I feel about missing this detail in 1/32. I hate to bow to peer pressure, but just about all of you who build these larger models, add these details with varying degrees of success.

So is there any hope for me, or do I need to accept that this is just something that I will be unable to do? I hate being told that I can't, but here I tried and couldn't

[hiddeous1973]

First of all, how you build models is up to you. It is so suppost to be fun, so you decide how and what you do.
Second, it would not look too bad with your method of rigging. Sure, it looks more fancy with turnbuckles and all, but in fact when you look at the pictures of most planes, then you see that most buckles where very slim indeed and hard to see, very much so from even a slight distance.

I myself have noticed that the preferred method of eyelets, turnbuckles and loops looks great, but also way out of scale in some respects. The ones I have seen with the polyamide tubing looks the best, as it it the slimmest option. I use the brass tube method myself because I like the way you can tension the wires, but that is my choise.

So no, it would not be a bad option to drill trough and rig your wires that way, you can simulate turnbuckles with paint if you want.

best of luck and most of all, have fun!
Hidde van der Donk from Holland

[bobs_buckles]

Softscience,

There is no written law that says you must use turnbuckles. Many excellent modelers rig perfectly without them.

Perhaps you should try using fine elastic for your rigging. Drill the hole, but not all the way through. Use a thin quick setting CA glue for quick grab of the elastic. Do likewise at the other end of the run. You can then use PVA glue to blob-on little turnbuckles.

And above all, we're here to help each other. Never feel that it is stupid or embarrassing to ask questions. The whole point of this forum is to encourage each other, not belittle.
We are here for you.
 

Good luck!
Bob

[RAGIII]

I am in the middle of the group when it comes to skills and the only time I have tried turnbuckles was a dud. So I have stuck with your method of rigging. I sometimes use the "Old School" method of using glue and paint for buckles but most of the time I don't bother. Have Fun!
RAGIII


No tubing was harmed making these photos 

[Ryan]

Hi all,

I have some splainin' to do. Its been some while since I posted anything here, and there is one main reason for that. I made a complete hash out of a Wingnut Wings kit. These blasted things are supposed to be idiot proof, but I guess when they made me, the debuted a more perfect idiot! 


Things went wrong when it came to rigging, and more specifically things went wrong when it came time to loop line through the little cylinders and stuff. I have a slight problem in that one of my eyes is much weaker than the other, and so I don't have good depth perception when it comes to small things (I'm fully functional otherwise, I can walk, run, drive a car, etc. - though it does partly explain why I'm absolute crap at tennis and baseball). So threading the rigging is very difficult for me. The problem is not correctable with lenses, so using a magnifier doesn't help.

I have to admit that its a bit embarrassing to admit to this, and I'm not asking for your pitty, but rather for ideas to help me come up with alternate methods and approaches. Its much easier for me to do rigging the old-school way - by drilling holes through the wings, and drawing lines tightly and snipping them off after the glue dries. This looks fine in 1/72, and I would argue even in 1/48. But I'm not sure how I feel about missing this detail in 1/32. I hate to bow to peer pressure, but just about all of you who build these larger models, add these details with varying degrees of success.

So is there any hope for me, or do I need to accept that this is just something that I will be unable to do? I hate being told that I can't, but here I tried and couldn't

Soft, I have buggered a few WNW kits...it is what it is, that's what spare part request are for, I wouldn't let it bother you.

I don't even use turnbuckles and am OK with it.

Ryan

[Softscience]

I am in the middle of the group when it comes to skills and the only time I have tried turnbuckles was a dud. So I have stuck with your method of rigging. I sometimes use the "Old School" method of using glue and paint for buckles but most of the time I don't bother. Have Fun!
RAGIII


No tubing was harmed making these photos 

Thank you for sharing those photos. Your models do look really nice without the buckles. I think this is maybe what I needed to see to convince me that it can look okay,

[Softscience]

Soft, I have buggered a few WNW kits...it is what it is, that's what spare part request are for, I wouldn't let it bother you.

I don't even use turnbuckles and am OK with it.

Ryan

Thanks. I'm glad I'm not alone. I have to admit though, that after all the effort I put in to get the painting to look right, it was heartbreaking when I messed up the rigging (which also caused me to mess up the paint. It felt like flushing a lot of money down the toilet.

I put the kit away in a box and might revisit it someday.  But I want to try on a blank canvas (new kit) before I go back to that one. Maybe I'll do it with a less expensive Roden or CSM kit.

[Ryan]

Oh you certainly flushed money down the can just like I did/ do, but it happens.

I would place CSM kits in the same league as WNW as far quality, Roden not as much.

You might find it worth it only to work on more expensive kits as the cheaper ones can wear you out even more.

You did the right thing by putting it away for a while, perhaps shoot an email to WNW with your part needs and then can send you some replacements. (Not free mind you, but that is the cost of learning what works and what does not.)


Another option is stripping parts and just starting over, if I don't strip a few parts on my builds then I am doing something wrong!

Back to no turnbuckle rigging, here is a shot of my Pup.  Not a turnbuckle in sight, is it wrong yep. Does it look good to me yep, and that all that matters. (btw I stripped several parts in this shot before I was satisfied.)

Pup by The 3rd Placer, on Flickr

It all sucks man, the bar is set very high by many slick builders on this sight such as "Sandbagger" and "Bughunter" who I hold in high regard.

[Ryan]

BTW who is to say your pull the rig through the wing won't work, why not try it on your "failed" WNW and see how you like it.

I through drilled the rudder bars here and it worked great.

Pup by The 3rd Placer, on Flickr

Pup by The 3rd Placer, on Flickr

Ryan

[Softscience]

Your pup cockpit looks great. I like the crispness of your style.

[Ryan]

Yep, I like em crispy!

Ryan

[eclarson]

I can certainly understand how a problem with depth perception would make it difficult working with rigging.  It sure makes me go cross-eyed at times.  

But as pointed out, turnbuckles are not necessary for a great looking model, even in 1/32.  Interestingly, Wingnut Wings actually recommends in their instructions to not bother trying to replicate them.  Also, look at any of the official model images on the Wingnut site (not the customer models).  You'll see that few, if any, have turnbuckles. 

Cheers,
Eric

[rolanddvi]

I have built one WNW, the Sopwith Snipe (Late). When it came time to do the rigging I made a complete shambles of it. Eyes and hands not cooperating!  So, I decided to put no rigging on it and put it in the display cabinet. Since no one other than my girlfriend, son and dog see my models it was OK for me. I'm sure that as I build more of these kits I will rig them but for now all is good. For me the hobby is about relaxing and learning. Skills get better with repetition.

Putting the kit away for a later date is what I would've done also. Sometimes it's best to walk away and come back to it.

My thoughts.

Mike

[lcarroll]

    You are getting great advice here, the "Tube" turnbuckles are but one of many options used here and although I use them I'm the first to admit they are not the most authentic representation of the lot! Forget them and use one of the other methods, whatever works best for your situation and enjoy your hobby!
Cheers,
Lance

[Softscience]

Thanks, to all for the advice. I felt compelled to pull down a fresh WNW kit (Ship's Camel) from the loft and give it another whirl.