forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Under Construction => Topic started by: Pgtaylorart on July 23, 2015, 01:46:24 PM
-
Hello,
My Sopwith Pup for the Group Build is now awaiting it's PE parts. I have started on another kit so as not to waste precious model building time. :)
I have chosen the WNWs DH.2 for a few reasons. I wanted to practice some weathering techniques with the linen decals from Aviattic before I use it to cover my Pup frame model. I figure that the plastic wings on the DH.2 are more forgiving than my frame wings on the Pup. I also want to experiment with painting wood, metal, etc., and try out some oils and enamels. The DH.2 is a relatively easy model to play around with, with the exception of the complicated rigging. And finally, I've already built the Taurus Gnome engine that I planned on using in my Pup. It's not really designed to fit the Pup, I learned afterwards, so I'm putting it in this kit.
So here's my sort of unorthodox beginning. I've basically cut all the parts off the sprue and began painting. It's now a model on sticks. :D
The obligatory box shot with the Taurus engine.
(http://imageshack.com/a/img673/7197/6kb5MA.jpg)
This is the version I'm building.
(http://imageshack.com/a/img911/2248/oyUr4e.jpg)
My Taurus engine built previously.
(http://imageshack.com/a/img661/7071/u08TZD.jpg)
And the start of the painting process with a bunch of parts on sticks.
(http://imageshack.com/a/img537/6049/BeeJe7.jpg)
(http://imageshack.com/a/img912/8585/S63zXW.jpg)
I'll get back to the Pup as soon as my PE parts come in... :)
Thanks,
George
-
Beautiful beginning, George.
Martin
-
Yep!
-
Looking forward to following along on this one.
Enjoy it!
MS
-
Looking good George! The DH2 is one of my favorites, not an easy build but an extremely rewarding one. Like you I used the Aviattic Linen Decals top and bottom, and it weathered very well with dry pastels. I see you are also opting for the natural wood interior as opposed to the more common grey paint, a much more appealing finish IMHO.
Enjoy the Build, I'll be following closely......... 8)
Cheers,
Lance
-
Thanks guys!
Lance, I have to admit that it was your build that influenced me to do the wood interior, and I think yours is the first I've seen that uses the Aviattic linen. The grey interior is called out in the instructions, but it seems very feasible that it could also be in natural wood, based on most other British aircraft cockpits of the day.
George
-
George,
The odd photo shows what is undoubtedly, in my mind, a natural wood interior. If anyone questions it's accuracy point out that the PC10 may be off as well! ;)
Cheers,
Lance
-
The odd photo shows ......
If there's anything odd involved, it is definitely right up George's alley, Lance.
And with his artists eye and the brush work shown on the Gnome engine, I am sure the work on the natural wood interior will be as informative and educational as it will be delightful. So George, please, old pal, step by step photos and explanations will be mucho appreciated!!
Big cheers from NYC,
Michael
-
George,
You're off to a excellent start my friend. Looking forward to following along.
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
PS: The engine's absolutely beautiful!
-
Excellent start, George.
Looking forward to seeing more from this build.
Cheers,
Bob
-
Great start, George! The Taurus engine of course is brilliant! Looking
forward to the start of construction, my friend.
Cheers,
Ernie :)
-
Looking forward to following along with this build George, you have made a great start, love the engine :)
Des.
-
Thanks Michael, Gregory, Bob, Ernie, and Des! :)
Michael, I've already painted most of the wood, but I'll do a step by step photo thingy. For the most part it's painted in the usual way with oils, but I found that brushes work a bit better for me than the sponge technique. I'll show you what I mean in my next post.
Bob Von Bucklemeister, just the person I need to talk to. This plane is a rigging nightmare, but a dream for you, I'm sure. ;) I need to place an order for your buckles ASAP. Do you happen to know what I need? Sizes, amounts? If not, I'll do my homework and get back to you.
Thanks!
George
-
Bob Von Bucklemeister, just the person I need to talk to. This plane is a rigging nightmare, but a dream for you, I'm sure. ;) I need to place an order for your buckles ASAP. Do you happen to know what I need? Sizes, amounts? If not, I'll do my homework and get back to you.
Thanks!
George
Hi George,
To answer your question... MANY! But you already know that ;) :)
Tube size can be either 1mm or 1.5mm depending on how well your eyes function, but personally I would use 1mm + a few 3mm cuts for some of the control line rigging.
Having never built this sweet looking bird I can only guess at the amounts required, but some of the guys on here have, so hopefully they will come back with the amounts required.
Good luck!
Von B
-
...and as Buck von Boothle was too polite to plug his own website, allow me to do so: he has a rigging guide specifically for the Dh.2 which I fully intend to use when I get to mine.
Go forth and rig.
-
he has a rigging guide specifically for the Dh.2 which I fully intend to use when I get to mine.
Go forth and rig.
...and it can be downloaded from http://bobsbuckles.co.uk/dh.2-rigging-guide.html (http://bobsbuckles.co.uk/dh.2-rigging-guide.html)
Happy Bird-Nesting!
VB
P.S. Mickie Scar! You crack me up!! Long may that continue ;D
-
A terrific start to an aftermarket purchase for your engine :-X Really looking forward to this one!
RAGIII
-
he has a rigging guide specifically for the Dh.2 which I fully intend to use when I get to mine.
Go forth and rig.
...and it can be downloaded from http://bobsbuckles.co.uk/dh.2-rigging-guide.html (http://bobsbuckles.co.uk/dh.2-rigging-guide.html)
Happy Bird-Nesting!
VB
P.S. Mickie Scar! You crack me up!! Long may that continue ;D
Thanks, VB! I downloaded the rigging guide and I'll start counting, and counting, and counting.... :o I'll get back to you soon!
And you gotta be careful with Sir Michael of Scarborough! I called him "Mickey" once and I just barely lived to regret it! (Let's just say he's a bit sensitive about that name, and his NY mob ties run deep! Have you seen Joe Pesci in Goodfellas? 'nuff said..)
Cheers!
George
-
A terrific start to an aftermarket purchase for your engine :-X Really looking forward to this one!
RAGIII
Thanks, Rick! ;D
-
George,
I don't have absolute numbers for you but I figure I used approximately 110 of von Buckles Turnbuckles and minimum 140 tubes, the majority 1.5 mm's. the remainder were 1.0mm's. I'd say you need to have minimum 125 buckles, 125 tubes of the 1.5 mm size, and 30 1mm size to have enough and a comfortable reserve to replace the bits you are going to "tweezerpult" off into the ether as you labour away. It's not a difficult task, just a long one. I cannot recommend the tutorial on von Buckles Website highly enough, it really keeps things on the rails. There are a couple of "grey zones", don't hesitate to ask as the time I spent poring over photos and articles is for sharing if of any help. The cabanes are an enigma to me, I chose to rig them fully however it seems every clear illustration of them shows a different configuration.
I'd bet that everyone here who has rigged one of these monsters has a different "count" on components, it's not any more definite then the colour of PC10! Last, I used mono for the conventional structures and EZ Line for the Lattice frames. Any mono added to the frames caused warping and was quickly replaced. I've since tried Modelkastens semi stretchable thread elsewhere and I figure it would provide too much tension as well.
Good luck, I'll be following your journey closely! 8)
Cheers,
Lance
-
Thanks for the info, Lance! You've just saved me a lot of time counting!
Von B, I'll take an order of what Lance said :D (I'll place a proper order later today)
Thanks,
George
-
Thanks for the info, Lance! You've just saved me a lot of time counting!
Von B, I'll take an order of what Lance said :D (I'll place a proper order later today)
Thanks,
George
No worries, George, take your time!
Von Waiting4Mickie! ;D
-
This will be lovely George :)
Good luck with the rigging :o the engine is exquisite..
Guy
-
Terrific start, George! That engine is brilliant.
Cheers,
Bud
-
Well, George,
everyone who knows me is aware of the fact that I do not waste with compliments and I am rather tending not to comment when the results are not breathtaking, but this is one of the best engines I have ever seen. Would be a real shame to hide it in a Pup cowling. You did a great job making me think: "hmm, this guy must be cheating me and I am looking at a photo of an original engine photoshoped to look like a 1:32 modell."
I will be following this thread with great interest. Thumbs up so far!
Cheers
Ondra
-
Thank you, Guy, Bud, and Ondra!
Ondra, you make me blush! :o ;D
Cheers,
George
-
Order placed, Bob! Enough to finish a few planes at least. Should keep you busy buckling and out of trouble for a few hours! ;D
Thanks
George
-
Order received, George! :o
I need to lay down in a darkened room with some gas and air on tap!
Cheers! :o ;) :)
Von TwistedBuckleDude
-
Well, it's a big order, but I got that little Pup frame model going too and you can see all the internal rigging! Sorry about that! :o ::)
-G
-
Well, it's a big order, but I got that little Pup frame model going too and you can see all the internal rigging! Sorry about that! :o ::)
-G
No worries, George! ;)
Cheers,
vB
-
Mickey Scar, huh?????? Yeah...you're smart to be worried.....
Joe Pesci? Joe Pesci is a twerp, see...a twerp, I tell ya.
Yeah...I model myself along more elegant lines, see.....
(http://i1371.photobucket.com/albums/ag293/michaelscarborough1/220px-Edward_g_robinson_zpszwxe9rlg.jpg) (http://s1371.photobucket.com/user/michaelscarborough1/media/220px-Edward_g_robinson_zpszwxe9rlg.jpg.html)
-
Hello!
I've made a bit of progress on the cockpit. The wood is painted using oils over Tamiya acrylic in the standard tans, ochres, and siennas using a brush, not a sponge. I had a bit more control in getting the wood grain looking the way I wanted this way. The grey areas on the fuel tank and front cockpit were first painted metal colors with Alclads then over sprayed with AK chipping fluid, painted the final grey and chipped. After the initial painting was finished I used Flory Models Dark Dirt wash over each part then wiped most of it off with a moist Q-Tip. I used Aviattic linen decals for the inside of the cockpit walls and did some final weathering with Tamiya weathering powders.
Here are some pics...
The floor before adding the Flory Dirt wash:
(http://imageshack.com/a/img673/5778/EP5lyd.jpg)
The sub-assemblies:
(http://imageshack.com/a/img540/1572/OHvVrG.jpg)
(http://imageshack.com/a/img661/420/WXbAJ3.jpg)
(http://imageshack.com/a/img673/4963/dWmTBy.jpg)
(http://imageshack.com/a/img673/8550/8P1U7E.jpg)
(http://imageshack.com/a/img673/7285/FXxzso.jpg)
(http://imageshack.com/a/img537/7264/4AD5Ds.jpg)
I've also painted the wood on the struts:
(http://imageshack.com/a/img905/6171/e8A1Zm.jpg)
(http://imageshack.com/a/img910/8700/1Kp9AO.jpg)
Cheers! :)
George
-
Dear me, that looks gorgeous, George! Fantastic work on the cockpit. That wood-linen version is much more interesting than grey.
However, as regards the struts, every source I read says about grey painted ones...
-
Some fine painting on display, George :)
The wood, leather and CDL all look in tip top order! Well done ;)
vB
-
Dear me, that looks gorgeous, George! Fantastic work on the cockpit. That wood-linen version is much more interesting than grey.
However, as regards the struts, every source I read says about grey painted ones...
Thanks, Prze. I don't know how authentic and accurate the wood struts are but I saw this photo and I liked the look.
(http://imageshack.com/a/img661/8931/4n5X6Z.jpg)
-
Thanks, vB! :)
-
Is it a period photo or a contemporary flying replica, George? And it truly looks more attractive than dull grey.
-
Yes, it's definitely a modern flying replica. As far as I know, they didn't have color film in WW1. ;) But I do like the look of the wood.
-
Yes, it's definitely a modern flying replica. As far as I know, they didn't have color film in WW1. ;) But I do like the look of the wood.
I thought so, anyway, looks very nice ;)
As far as I know, they didn't have color film in WW1. ;)
There are some very rare colour photos, for instance I have seen ones of Australian Bristol F2.B Fighter in Palestine wearing its famous khaki-white livery.
-
You have achieved an excellent wood colour George and the leather seat cushion looks fantastic, as far as the struts go, it's your model so you can paint it what ever colour you please but I agree with you, the wood struts look great :)
Des.
-
Excellent!
-
There goes the neighborhood. This is what happens when a well trained, experienced and excruciatingly talented professional fine artist get hold of a paint brush.
I particularly like the look of the stretched fabric on the interior and the seat itself is a tutorial in painting leather. I am also really pleased to see the range of materials you've used and the success you've achieved with them. I have most of what you mention but haven't had time to practice with them.
Really, George, this is a delight to behold and I am sincerely looking forward to the rest.
Cheers for the West Coast, Big Ones, from NYC
-
Wow George, Well done interior! Like the others have said the wood is excellent and the seat cushion is awesome!
RAGIII
-
Fantastic done, George.
Martin
-
Truly stunning interior work, George! And those struts are perfect! Your wood grain technique is second to none.
Cheers,
Bud
-
George, et al, let's talk specifics; are you attempting to replicate the specific type of wood used in these circumstances? Can anyone tell me, specifically, what type of wood was used in de Havilland interiors and for de Havilland struts? (I will be asking similar questions when it comes to the exterior of my W.12.) I think a study of where these manufactures, on both sides of The Channel, were getting their wood would be fascinating. I am sure the Baltic would play into it.
Cheers from NYC,
Termite Man
-
Michael, I remember from various reading, that spruce and ash were frequently used for structural elements and birch for plywood panels in WW1 aircraft. But not sure what was the particular case of DH.2
-
George, et al, let's talk specifics; are you attempting to replicate the specific type of wood used in these circumstances? Can anyone tell me, specifically, what type of wood was used in de Havilland interiors and for de Havilland struts? (I will be asking similar questions when it comes to the exterior of my W.12.) I think a study of where these manufactures, on both sides of The Channel, were getting their wood would be fascinating. I am sure the Baltic would play into it.
Cheers from NYC,
Termite Man
See Koloman Mayrhofer's extensive Albatros D.III reproduction thread on the Aerodrome for an extensive discussion of WWI wood & plywood used by the German and Austrian Aircraft industry. It's a must read for a whole host of reasons anyway.
-
Huh!!...Prze that is fascinating. I can definitely see Birch for the plywood. I use Baltic birch plywood in my furniture pieces and it is still the best.
I can definitely see ash being used for it's structural strength. Sometimes I see pix of British planes with very light coloUred struts and wonder if those were ash. But sometimes they appear to be a much darker coloUr and wonder if this is a different species of wood (mahogany?) or it they were stained. And, if so, why? What would be the point of what seems to have been an aesthetic choice on a war plane? (At that time old growth Cuban Mahogany would still have been available....be still my soul.)
I know (I think) my dad used spruce plywood for the flat sections of the ribs and, I believe, solid spruce for the parts attached to the ribs, when he was building his Fokker Triplane replica. Man, I wish I could ask him!
Neat stuff in both George's execution as well as this discussion!!
Michael
PS (Not to hijack George's thread, but I am really interested in knowing what the two types of wood, light and dark, used were in Bertl's photos of the LVG reconstruction.)
-
Danke Schöne Herr Monroe!!
-
Thanks, guys! :)
This a great discussion on wood types used. You guys have just taught me a lot! Thank you!
I actually didn't know what types were used. In my research I noticed that most of the time the cockpit floors were a lighter, yellower plywood, while the rest of the cockpit wood was darker and redder. The photos for struts varied between medium yellows and reds with almost no visible grain to deeper reddish woods with very visible grain and even what looks like knots showing. The latter looked the most interesting so that is what I tried to emulate. Also some of the grain was very straight and some was very wavy. I looked at all this as an artist and not as and engineer or historian. I don't know what woods they are or which is more accurate. I just know which I liked the look of better. Variety is the key for me so I used them all! I just tried to be a bit logical as to which type of wood was used where.
Cheers!
George
-
From The Man himself, Koloman Mayrhofer, re Albatros D.III
hallo,
chris had already answerd most of your questions so just a few more details.
in the original drawings the scarf joints on the D III are between #9 and 1#10 on the top longerons and between #8 and #9 on the bottom longeron
forward of this they are laminated ash and the rear section is spruce or pine. both materials are specified in the drawings.
Just one of many juicy details to be found in this thread:
http://www.theaerodrome.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35610
-
From The Man himself, Koloman Mayrhofer, re Albatros D.III
hallo,
chris had already answerd most of your questions so just a few more details.
in the original drawings the scarf joints on the D III are between #9 and 1#10 on the top longerons and between #8 and #9 on the bottom longeron
forward of this they are laminated ash and the rear section is spruce or pine. both materials are specified in the drawings.
Just one of many juicy details to be found in this thread:
http://www.theaerodrome.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35610
Great thread, Bo! A wealth of information. I bookmarked it into my favorites.
-
From The Man himself, Koloman Mayrhofer, re Albatros D.III
hallo,
chris had already answerd most of your questions so just a few more details.
in the original drawings the scarf joints on the D III are between #9 and 1#10 on the top longerons and between #8 and #9 on the bottom longeron
forward of this they are laminated ash and the rear section is spruce or pine. both materials are specified in the drawings.
Just one of many juicy details to be found in this thread:
http://www.theaerodrome.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35610
Great thread, Bo! A wealth of information. I bookmarked it into my favorites.
Me, too! Thanks for the specific link, Meister Bo!!
-
George, the cockpit is absolutely magnificent work! The use of Aviattic linen on the inside is brilliantly done, and the seat cushion......oh my! Are you planning Aviattic treatment for the major components? This is really nice. :)
Cheers,
Lance
-
Outstanding!
The wood is perfect and the seat is just WoW!
-
Thanks Lance and Sasho!
Lance, yes, I have Aviattic linen decals for the rest of the plane. I'm using Khaki for the green and German Linen for the undersides. I bought the clear versions. I'm experimenting with pre-shading the wings before applying the decals to recreate the look of the tan wooden spars showing through and the lighter colored rib tapes. I'll add light weathering over the top of the decals.
George
-
George!
Wow I love it!!! You wood painting technique is fantastic and they look great on the struts Can't wait to see the next update!
-
Thanks, James! :)
-
Keep going George,
It is looking very realistic.
Will be interested to see how you fare with the Aviattic fabric as I have some sitting here.
Best wishes,
Dave
-
Keep going George,
It is looking very realistic.
Will be interested to see how you fare with the Aviattic fabric as I have some sitting here.
Best wishes,
Dave
Thanks, Dave.
I worked most of the weekend on covering the wings with the Aviattic linen. I have to say, it's a lot of work since I pre shaded first, but the results are worth it. I'll have pics to post soon.
George
-
Beautifully, I like the cockpit and especially the worn look of the rear firewall.
Represented superb , George
-
Thanks, Bertl! That mean a lot coming from you. :)
George
-
Hello again! A small update...
Although it doesn't look like much, it's taken me a few weeks of trial and error to get the look of the CDL and PC10 linen that I was wanting. I'm using the Aviattic clear decals which allows me to do underpainting to show the rib tapes and wood spars without covering up the linen texture on the decal.
I used German/Austro-Hungarian Linen for the CDL since I wanted to be able to add a subtle yellow-orange color. I pre-shaded with Tamiya Smoke, Clear Yellow, and Clear Orange over Gloss White. I used a spare wing from my Pup as a test bed until I found the right colors and shades. The underpainting looks very different after the decal was applied so it took many versions before I felt it was what I wanted. I still need to add weathering over the top of the decal to finish it off.
(http://imageshack.com/a/img661/9655/gQTYRj.jpg)
(http://imageshack.com/a/img538/7213/zC7CFd.jpg)
Frisket masking film was used to make templates for the decal shapes. I used to use this as an illustrator long before the advent of Photoshop to mask out shapes for airbrushing. OK, now I'm feeling old... ???
(http://imageshack.com/a/img901/5350/2EiBm7.jpg)
For the PC10 I used Aviattic's PC10 “light” WW1 RFC/RAF Doped Linen. I actually wanted the final color to be much darker so the "light" gave me some room to add the pre-shading. I also used Tamiya Smoke, Clear Green and Clear Orange to adjust the color to the shade I wanted. You can see this before the decal was applied in the photos below of the fuselage sides.
(http://imageshack.com/a/img538/6474/zTZ5Hz.jpg)
Now on to finishing the task of decaling and weathering all the linen. After that is finished, everything can finally be assembled, then on to the joy of all that rigging! ;D
Thanks!
George
-
Most impressive. It's very interesting to see how the wing changes when applying the Linen decals.
S.
-
Superb update, G!
;) ;)
vB
-
Exellent work, George.
Cheers
Martin
-
Truly wonderful work, PGT! My hats off to your desire and willingness to take the time to experiment to get it right. The results speak for themselves. There have been some nice representations of CDL posted but, to my eye, this comes the closest to looking like Herr Meyerhoffer's Albatros or those pix of the BE2C at TVAL.
Big Cheers from the East Coast,
Michael
-
Nice work George!
-
George, one question, if I may, pls....
Re: Using the frisket as the decal template: do I assume you are laying the frisket on the piece, then cutting the outline, then using that cut piece as the template? If so, is the frisket low enough tack so that it doesn't damage the decal when pulled off?
Thanks,
Michael
-
George, one question, if I may, pls....
Re: Using the frisket as the decal template: do I assume you are laying the frisket on the piece, then cutting the outline, then using that cut piece as the template? If so, is the frisket low enough tack so that it doesn't damage the decal when pulled off?
Thanks,
Michael
Great question, Michael. Wondering the same thing.
Looking fantastic, George! I'm loving those Aviattic fabric sheets more and more.
Cheers,
Bud
-
Thanks for the nice words! :)
George
-
George, one question, if I may, pls....
Re: Using the frisket as the decal template: do I assume you are laying the frisket on the piece, then cutting the outline, then using that cut piece as the template? If so, is the frisket low enough tack so that it doesn't damage the decal when pulled off?
Thanks,
Michael
Michael,
You're exactly right. And I only have to cut the frisket for one half of each wing because I can get the mirror image by sticking the frisket template to the back side of the decal paper.
George
-
OK, thanks, George....I had a bad experience once with extra high tack frisket.
Your choice of colors for the shading of both the CDL and the PC-10 is pretty obvious, but, if you have a moment, can you share your thoughts on how you came to those choices....particularly the yellow-orange. On the CDL is this to warm it up and does it have anything to do with the tone of the linen decal? And on the PC-10, does this have anything to do with the color wheel?
Sharing your knowledge would be appreciated, Sr. da Vinci.
Cheers (bigger and bigger ones) from NYC,
Michael
-
I did use the yellow/orange to warm up the CDL as you asked. But there're no color wheel issues. I poured over reference photos and like PC10, the CDL come in many colors from a light warm grey, to a greenish yellow/orange, to a brighter yellow/orange. The color I preferred for this plane was the lighter, more neutral whitish CDL. I also noticed 3 main color issues going on regardless of the final color. The rib tapes were usually lighter, the wood spars were more tan/orange as they showed through the linen, and the areas between were a bit darker and cooler grey to indicate shadow.
I still need to add weathering to create a bit more color and tonal variation.
As for the frisket, use the same trick as with the Tamiya tape. Stick it to your arm or back of your hand a few times to reduce the tack.
G
-
As for the frisket, use the same trick as with the Tamiya tape. Stick it to your arm or back of your hand a few times to reduce the tack.
Yeah, just stick the tape to the top of your chrome dome, Michael! You'll be good to go in no time ;D
Von BaldyWithanAttitude
-
Thanks, Bob......I'll rely on your experience using the same method............
-
George, this is looking really GOOD. I'll be watching, because your technique is what I to try on the Canuck.
Pietro
-
Stunning results! I really like what you are doing with the linen decals! Thanks for explaining all of your processes!
RAGIII
-
Thanks, Pietro and Rick!
George
-
Very nice work with the linen decals George, you are achieving excellent results, I am keeping a record of all this.
Des.
-
Thank you, Des! :)
-
Just catching up, George. Superb work on the wings and
fuselage. The cockpit area is an absolute jewel. Beautiful
progress, my friend.
Cheers,
Ernie :)
-
Hi George!!!!
Somehow I missed this thread in recent history... more happy Im after finding it :) Great stuff!!!!
Cheerio
Lukas
-
Thanks, Ernie and Lukas!
George
-
Hmmm, very impressive and highly inspirative, many thanks for sharing, George!
10 bonus points awarded. :)
Cheers
Ondra
-
Thanks, Ondra! How do I cash in those points? Can I put them towards that new WNWs Camel? ;)
Great to see you experimenting with our decals so successfully, George, thanks for giving them a go!
Best wishes, Richard
Thanks, Richard, I'm really loving the look of the linen! They add a dimension that would be next to impossible to recreate with just paint. I am working on the PC10 side of the wings now and will have something to show very soon.
George
-
Thanks, Ondra! How do I cash in those points? Can I put them towards that new WNWs Camel? ;)
Unfortunately not, but you can put them towards the 1/144th Brengun D.H.2. ;)
-
PC10 Update
Hello! :)
I am almost finished with the CDL and PC10 Aviattic clear decals. It has been a bit challenging to get the shade I wanted because I'm trying to do most of the shading before I apply the decals so as not to lose the nice linen texture. I was looking for a medium dark greenish shade that was between the PC10 Light and Khaki Aviattic decals. Since the surface darkens after the decals are applied I used the PC10 Light. I underpainted with Tamiya Smoke, Clear Green, and Clear Orange making sure to vary the shade a bit from olive greens to true green, and also make the rib tapes a bit lighter. To show you what the the underpainting looks like, I haven't covered the ends of the upper wing yet. Now I need to gloss coat, add the roundels and other decals, then satin coat and finish weathering with oils and maybe some dry pigments and pastels. I'm still experimenting so who knows what it will take exactly. I'm still trying to find that subtle balance of values with the rib tapes showing too much or not enough.
Here's a pic showing the Aviattic decals and my wing with and without the decals. It was a bit hard to photograph because the gloss finish was causing too much glare, but the final finish will be more satin and matte.
(http://imageshack.com/a/img537/8755/hKfbuE.jpg)
And a few more pics.
(http://imageshack.com/a/img540/6263/Fq2YQt.jpg)
(http://imageshack.com/a/img912/9361/h60MrP.jpg)
Thanks,
George
-
Very beautiful painting, George.
Cheers
Martin
-
Great update George, you are really "murdering" that PC10, outstanding results!. I'm wondering how the wrapped under joints went? (or does that get done later as a separate step?)
Cheers,
Lance
-
Brilliant work on the pre-shading, George! You've nailed it!
Cheers,
Bud
-
Brilliant work on the pre-shading, George! You've nailed it!
agree!
-
Thanks :)
Great update George, you are really "murdering" that PC10, outstanding results!. I'm wondering how the wrapped under joints went? (or does that get done later as a separate step?)
Cheers,
Lance
Lance, to answer your question about how I did the wrapped under joints, I didn't. I don't know how accurate it is but I noticed some photos where it didn't seem to wrap under. The two colors met in the middle. Yeah, it's probably wrong. :-[ I will have to do the wrap under thing correctly next time when I cover my Pup wings because they definitely have an obvious wrap under. I'm still thinking about how I want to do that because I want to use the clear decals, not the ones printed on white.
George
-
George,
On the contrary, not necessarily wrong at all, even the data File photos of 6011, my subject, could be interpreted as having no wrap under. That's the beauty of this Hobby, there are, apparently, no absolutes! :-\
Cheers,
Lance
-
Getting caught up on your build George and ,,, most impressive so far :)
Terri
-
Thanks Terri and Lance! :)
Thanks for that info, Lance. I was feeling like I was taking the easy way out, instead of pushing myself. Now my laziness is justified! Lol ;D
George
-
Very nicely done with the Aviattic decals George, there seems to be so many possibilites with these decals with different base coats and different techniques in shading.
Des.
-
Very nicely done with the Aviattic decals George, there seems to be so many possibilites with these decals with different base coats and different techniques in shading.
Des.
Thanks, Des. I'm really liking the look that the decals give. They are worth the extra effort it takes to apply them. I commend Richard for creating a very well thought out and well executed product.
George
-
those aviattic decals are brilliant.
-
Brilliant work on the pre-shading, George! You've nailed it!
agree!
Who am I to disagree with Bo and My Amigo! Brilliant is an excellent description!
RAGIII
-
George,
If you have the Data File check Photo #81 on page 32; #6011 with apparently no "wrap under", at least not on the upper wing. Then there's Photo #82 on the following page, #7849 with very clear wrap under on both wings.... ??? Not laziness, maybe accuracy on your part! I'll be following your progress with great interest!
Cheers,
Lance
-
Long Overdue Update
Contrary to what some of you have asked, I have not shelved this build. I'm just really slow and easily distracted. :-\ :D
I've finished most of the painting on the wings, fuselage, and all the other bits like spars, wheels, engine etc. Now i just need to start gluing all the sub assemblies together and start rigging. Oh the rigging! :o
Here are some pics of my progress.
(http://imageshack.com/a/img907/7043/QaJljG.jpg)
(http://imageshack.com/a/img905/1646/IFGIu7.jpg)
(http://imageshack.com/a/img633/6695/pq028E.jpg)
(http://imageshack.com/a/img911/7659/BkY6Ni.jpg)
(http://imageshack.com/a/img908/2305/whuEFm.jpg)
(http://imageshack.com/a/img907/7424/Aucqqm.jpg)
Thanks,
George
-
Really superb work, George! You've clearly been doing your homework looking at images of the real thing. The level oh highlighting on the ribs, etc. is spot on, IMHO. Engine splatter is excellent.
This is very exciting!!
Cheers from NYC
PS Now get back to work and stop being distracted by images of Senorita Cruz' baby sister!
Long Overdue Update
I'm just really slow and easily distracted. Ii
-
Wow! Those are some great looking pieces and parts. Can't wait to see them come together.
v/r,
rob
-
Great work, George! Very informative and beautiful results, my friend.
Cheers,
Ernie :)
-
Excellent paint work George and the weathering is superb.
Des.
-
DH Delight, George!
Beautiful detail work. One must agree with Michael, the splatter work is excellent.
Good luck with the rigging ;)
Von B
-
Hi,
the painting is so great!
truly a gem! :D
Looking forward to see the rollout
Kindly regards
Jörg
-
George,
Nice to see this little gem resurface, she's a beauty! Your weathering and particularly the "grunge" is absolutely perfect IMHO, I too prefer a used look and you've aced it on this subject. Beautiful work!
Fear not the rigging, in case you missed it or have forgotten it this simple little device (wish I could recall which of our members came up with the idea) will keep you sane. Without it I swear I'd have needed three more hands minimum!
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n583/lcarroll1/TRIPE/IMG_3707.jpg) (http://s1141.photobucket.com/user/lcarroll1/media/TRIPE/IMG_3707.jpg.html)
(http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n583/lcarroll1/TRIPE/IMG_3706.jpg) (http://s1141.photobucket.com/user/lcarroll1/media/TRIPE/IMG_3706.jpg.html)
Good luck with the stringing stage, a break for a Single Malt helps on occasion. ;)
Cheers,
Lance
-
George very beautiful work.
Cheers
Martin
-
Thanks for the really nice words, everyone! Now I'm all fired up to finish this thing! :D
Lance, thank you for posting pics of your rigging device. I'm going to build one ASAP. What did you use on the top surface of the plywood? It looks like some type of foam, but what kind and where did you get it? Probably any type of soft foam would work, correct?
Thanks,
George
-
George,
I used a fine type of bubble wrap however next time I use it (the "Fee" is on the horizon!) I'm going to replace it with a soft foam. Get a fairly large gauge wire as well, my first one was too small and didn't perform well. I believe I settled on 12 GA. house copper wire in the end and it works quite nicely.
Cheers,
Lance
-
As has been said.. You've completely nailed it George. Ill be using your photos as my reference for future builds.
Guy
-
As has been said.. You've completely nailed it George. Ill be using your photos as my reference for future builds.
Guy
Likewise!
Cheers,
Bud
-
Thanks, Guy and Bud! :)
George
-
Beautiful work! Like the others said, You Nailed it!
RAGIII
-
Thank you, Rick!
-
Rigging and all things turnbuckley
I've finally made it to the point of stringing up this kite! Thanks to Lance (lcarroll), James (FarEast), Bertl, von Buckle himself, and Gaspatch for providing me with the advice and equipment to begin this stage of the build. :)
I've attached 1/48 Gaspatch turnbuckles to all the bottom areas where they should be (I hope). I used the "A" style with the eyelet attached and tried to angle them in the proper directions. I'll make adjustments as I'm attaching the lines so I don't commit the sin of awkward facing buckles. :-[ I've also painted the buckle part a brass color. The boom (which is just dry fitted for now) will be rigged with Uschi line so it doesn't twist up on me. I've started a bit as a test.
Here are some pics:
(http://imageshack.com/a/img633/4629/JQqn5i.jpg)
(http://imageshack.com/a/img903/1421/kmWkca.jpg)
(http://imageshack.com/a/img911/9633/owbX8E.jpg)
(http://imageshack.com/a/img903/3913/A2y4lR.jpg)
Here is the underside of the top wing with all the 2mm von Buckles attached with Maxima Chameleon 0.12mm painted a la Bertl's direction.
(http://imageshack.com/a/img633/619/sa05JV.jpg)
(http://imageshack.com/a/img903/4786/KwSm1k.jpg)
I think I can see the light at the end of the tunnel now. Hopefully this will be in the Completed Builds soon!
Thanks!
George
-
Great update George!
I've got this one in the stash. One day when I get some more rigging experience I'll get it out and your build will be a great reference.
Looking forward to seeing it come together.
v/r,
Rob
-
George,
Outstanding rigging progress my old friend. Your Gaspatch turnbuckles are amazing. Looking forward to seeing more of your outstanding rigging.
Well Done!
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
-
Thanks Rob and Gregory!
PS: I just noticed that my Lewis magazine holders on the fuse sides were the wrong way around. They should be more forward, centered at the cockpit opening. Luckily they were dry fit and I've since corrected them, so ignore these in the photos. :-[
George
-
Excellent update, George. Great start on the rigging, my friend!
Cheers,
Ernie :)
-
Brilliant work George! I particularly like the oil spatters on the underside of the upper wing, perfect! The rigging looks to be well planned but I really don't know how you guys get it all together with all of those lines hanging around. I would get hopelessly tangled ::)
RAGIII
-
You make this aging buckler very proud :D
Lovely string work, George :)
Von B
(http://imageshack.com/a/img633/619/sa05JV.jpg)
-
Looking just a little better then absolutely spectacular, George! To echo Rick's comment, the splatters on the bottom wing surface are a really nice touch. Great work!
Cheers,
Lance
-
Wow! Looking really divine, PGTIV! Bravo.
The mechanical stuff looks great but I really love the painting. IMHO, you have hit it on the head with the rib tapes which are so often over emphasized. And, as the other gents have pointed out, the spattering on the upper wing is superb. But also the staining under the spatters looks so realistic. Again, its the subtlety that grabs me. And love the areas behind the cockpit. I'm glad you parents sent you to art school, Leonardo. It shows.
Cheers from NYC,
Michael
-
Hi George,
it looks so great! A wonderful Model. I love the weathering you made. :D
I am soon before the first rigging and i am already a little excited. ;)
Looking forward to see the next stage.
Kindly regards
Jörg
PS. My cursor hovers over the order button, I think I reward myself even at Christmas. I love the DH 2!
-
Thanks for the kind words, Ernie, Rick, von B, Lance, Michael, and Jörg! :)
Jörg, treat yourself to a DH.2 for Christmas. It's a great kit, you won't be disappointed! There are plenty of helpful members on our forum to help you with any questions you may have on the rigging, as I sure did.
George
-
Hi George,
the order is out. The kit should arrive before Christmas. ;) ;D
And I will like to come back to your offer. but first the rigging of the albatross had to be done.
I am looking forward to give my DH.2 a good home! :D
Kind regards to California from Berlin
Jörg
-
Very good, Jörg! Merry Christmas from Los Angeles!! :D
George
-
Outstanding work George.
Cheers
Martin
-
Beautiful DH.2 in the making, George! It is going to be a stunner, well it already is one!
-
Hello George!!!!
She is coming along nicely!!! Cant wait to see her in Completed builds section ;)
Cheerio
Lukas
-
Thank you, Martin, Przemo, and Lukas! I'm really energized now to finish this thing.
George
-
I really wish we could all get together with our models and make aerodromes! This DH.2 is very special and it makes me want to break out the other one I have tucked away in my stash!
-
I really wish we could all get together with our models and make aerodromes! This DH.2 is very special and it makes me want to break out the other one I have tucked away in my stash!
Very cool idea, James! It would be great if we had a convention of some sort where we could all share are models in person. We need to have a car wash and a bake sale to raise the cash to get all our member in the same place! :)
George
-
Hi,
very good idea!!
I would suggest Berlin, which lies in the middle. ;)
-
The top wing is attached after much fiddling with struts and rigging lines. The wheels and boom are dry fitted for the photo. My next step is to build the rigging jig that Lance posted pics of earlier on this thread. It looks like it will be very helpful!
Only one photo this time showing a web of lines that need to be placed.
(http://imageshack.com/a/img911/8925/0J26pe.jpg)
Cheers,
George
-
Great job, George. It is fantastic to see your DH.2 progress.
One more issue, which comes to my mind when I look at a model in this very stage. I always wonder, if it pays off to attach all the rigging lines to the stations at the top wing before its assembly. You mention fiddling with these lines when attaching the wing. Me, I always have to fiddle enough with struts themselves. I prefer to attach the lines to the wing after the assembly. Then, I do some gymnastics with tweezers to push the lines through the eyelets, yet, still I prefer this, than having those loose lines glued to the struts by mistake when attaching the wing.
-
George,
Your DH looks great with the upper wing mounted! I don't know how you guys sort out all of those dangling lines !
RAGIII
-
George.
Nice to see yours progress, it looks fantastic.
For the rigging I'm using the same method like Przemol.
Adam.
-
I do mine as you are doing this one, George, with the lines attached (usually to the bottom wing) before mounting the top wing. Something that reduces the conflict between struts, glue, fingers and the lines is to "tack" the lines together temporarily with masking tape, ie: left wing lines together, right side, Tail, etc. I then pull them out of the bunch as their other end is installed one at a time. Might help you keep track of progress and prevent "accidents".
Looking absolutely beautiful!
Cheers,
Lance
-
Wonderful work, George.
Cheers
Martin
-
Thanks for the advice about the rigging methods. Since I've gotten this far, I'll have to continue on, but I'm sure your ways will make it a bit easier next time. I have an FE.2b in my stash. I'll try out your methods when I get around to rigging it. :)
George
-
Looking really good George, good luck with the rigging, I'm sure you will pull it off beautifully.
Des.
-
Thanks, Des! I've been working most of the evening and I now have the wings pretty well under way. A few eyelets and turnbuckles have popped out as I'm pulling the lines taught, aargh! >:( , but after redoing these, all is coming together. :)
I think I'll need to drill the anchor holes a bit deeper and add a bit more CA to prevent this next time.
George
-
Wonderful work, George.
Cheers
Martin
Thank you, Martin!
-
George - be very careful on lines attaching the boom poles - they can bend the whole alignment out of shape!
-
George - be very careful on lines attaching the boom poles - they can bend the whole alignment out of shape!
Yes, I've noticed this. Thanks for the warnings, James! Lance also mentioned this. I have the Uschi elastic line for this and I've tried a bit on one of the booms. It seems to work very well. You can lightly stretch it to a tight line without putting too much tension on the boom. I like it much better than the EZ Line because it is round, not flat. The EZ Line can get a twisted look if you're not careful which detracts from the illusion IMHO.
George
-
Hi George,
sorry, what is a boom? :o
And then I indeed glad I have the elastic line from "Uschi"! ;)
Regards
Jörg
-
Jörg,
The boom is the section on a pusher airplane that connects the front of the airplane to the rear. "Boom" is a long rod or pole. The rods and struts that are braced with wire as shown in the photo. :)
(http://imageshack.com/a/img908/8079/Rd53Pr.jpg)
George
-
Thank you so much George, now everything is clear.
Have a nice weekend! :D
-
Great work on the DH2 George!
I also had a bit of trouble with a slight misalignment of the tail due to a twist on the boom assembly. It happened after the glue had set on the rudder & elevator assembly. EZ Line was used for the rigging. I ended up routing a stronger line of invisible thread from the tail through to the elevator control horn by the cockpit, pulling just the right amount of tension to align the tail, then securing the line with drops of cyano at the wing pulley and control horn.
Cheers,
Gary
-
Thanks, Gary!
I'm hearing a lot of stories about the boom. I really appreciate all the advice. Now I'm going to take every bit of precaution to line everything up properly and hopefully not twist it out of shape with the rigging!
George
-
I agree that the elastic line should prevent twisting the boom out of shape. It's also more forgiving when you bump it with tools or fingers ;D
Have fun!,
Rob
-
Beautiful work on the paint finish George :)
Terri
-
George, are you using the kit booms or are you replacing them with brass tube?
Des.
-
Thanks, Rob and Terri! :)
Des, I am using the kit booms, but after hearing about all the issues, it might be a good idea to replace it with brass. It would be a very easy job to knock together with a bit of solder in the right places. If I have too much trouble, I'll switch it out.
George
-
Great progress on the DH, George. As for the rigging, I think I tend
to go with Przemo, especially with this amount of lines. I am edging
closer to building one of these beasties so I am following your excellent
example closely. Really beautiful work, my friend.
Cheers,
Ernie :)
-
Thanks Ernie!
-
George, this is absolutely stunning work! Your wings look great! As for the booms, I went with brass tubing on that scratch-built 1/28. I love your treatment on the metal panels.
Pietro
-
Moving along nicely !!
Ed
-
Nice work George. Sounds like you're making good progress.
Warren