forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
Modelers Lounge => The World of Scale Models => Topic started by: uncletony on July 15, 2023, 01:34:01 PM
-
I've had this kit in my stash since the early 90s. I bought it for analog work on a game I was working on at the time. It was already very old -- it's the original 1970 boxing -- a kit I built as a kid and loved.
I pulled it down in December and started at it. Lots to like, lots not so great... fun!
(https://i.imgur.com/CwW2nd5.jpg)
stay tuned.
-
This kit will probably be familiar to a lot of folks here. While it pales in many ways to the new tool 1/24 Mk IX, the overall shape is decent and in general it's quite accurate.
(https://i.imgur.com/AyazFjm.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/m4ntoEO.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ixAjdNK.jpg)
Clearly the kit was primarily modeled on Mk I museum specimens, leading to the mold makers erroneously copying details that do not belong on a BoB era Spitfire. For instance, the electrical socket on the port wing fillet was not present in 1940, although surviving Mk Is were retrofitted thusly later on. And the large raised line at the top of the fillet represents a doubler repair that would likely not have been present when the machine was on front line duty. (And it is wildly overscale in any case).
(https://i.imgur.com/uOKAZOk.jpg)
Similarly, during the BoB and prior, Spitfires were fitted with fabric covered ailerons. However the fabric ballooned at high speed, causing extremely high stick forces. The (partial) solution was metal covered ailerons, and all Mk Is were retrofitted -- but not until 1941 or so.
(https://i.imgur.com/pVhzyQU.jpg)
Another repair inadvertently copied to the model -- the raised zig zaggy line on the bottom of the fillet is another panel edge doubler repair -- again, present on many museum specimens which were usually sourced from war-weary OTU machines. The "zag" in the fillet edge, which is only present on the starboard side, is to accomodate one of the two parachute flare doors. (Starting with the Mk II, the second flare chute was deleted).
(https://i.imgur.com/F76V3K5.jpg)
The quarter turn fastener detail on the cowling panels is a wee overdone !
(https://i.imgur.com/ued51i5.jpg)
...and the interior walls are pretty thick (1.5mm) and blobby, with the rudder and elevator trim wheels molded directly into the fuselage side.
(https://i.imgur.com/ePoERyh.jpg)
While most of the gun access panels are removable, there is no other detail inside the wings save the guns themselves and their ammunition boxes. Kind of the Milton Bradley Operation effect. Same is true for the wheel wells.
(https://i.imgur.com/2yGv1kq.jpg)
The fuselage fit is pretty horrible!
(https://i.imgur.com/iYaC8EK.jpg)
The Merlin lump is just that.
(https://i.imgur.com/0apZcOo.jpg)
The instrument panel is co-molded with former 8. It features clear plastic gauges, with the dial details embossed on the front. :o Meanwhile, the former fans out at the bottom to fill the fillet -- in fact the interior shape is actually ovoid.
(https://i.imgur.com/lKHLbDr.jpg)
The control stick is particularly awful!
(https://i.imgur.com/guBtQjM.jpg)
-
Where to start? In my case I started with the rudder pedals :-)
1940 Spitfires were fitted with simple cast alloy pedals embossed with "Supermarine". The kit depicts (in its execrable way) the later two-step pedal -- the higher step was meant for combat, allowing the pilot to sustain higher G-forces. Again, these were not present in 1940, but were retrofitted.
(https://i.imgur.com/5P9ETVJ.jpg)
I designed and printed my own pedals. The strap detail, which on the original was supposedly flattened firehose, will be added later:
(https://i.imgur.com/eQg7qpV.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/LplKdWf.jpg)
Next up, the rudder bar and rods.
(https://i.imgur.com/lgLotxq.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/DNOAdRE.jpg)
-
The control column was next up.
I've already touched on the misshapen and blobby kit part. The original column consisted of a central tube that rocked fore and and aft for pitch control, topped with a yoke that tilted side to side for roll. The yoke transmitted its input via chain and cable that ran on either side of the central tube. This was covered by a chain guard. The pneumatic wheel brakes were actuated by the bicycle-style brake handle via bowden cable to the valves in the floor. The machine guns were likewise pneumatically operated via the push button at the top of the spade grip. the ring that surrounded the button was notched and rotated between safe and hot positions.
(https://i.imgur.com/uxDM6Hx.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/hFhVgzt.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/zVSZsqR.jpg)
-
Next up, the interior tub situation. Unlike how Airfix modeled this 50 odd years ago, the wing fillets are not part of the fuselage per se and do not contribute to the interior volume. Generally speaking, my Spitfire is going to be broken down into the same main assemblies that comprised the original.
My plan is to remove the fillets from the fuselage and create a new "tub." Originally I had planned to vac form this, but a better option presented itself.
I started by marking the fillet borders and fuel tank cover with blue tape.
(https://i.imgur.com/XDl95FN.jpg)
By shining a bright light thru the plastic, I was able to trace the border on the inside of the fuselage.
(https://i.imgur.com/LYZzTQq.jpg)
I used these marks to thin the plastic with a dremel to about .35mm
(https://i.imgur.com/IhtUK4y.jpg)
At this point it is a simple matter of cutting along the exterior panel line to remove the fillet
(https://i.imgur.com/NGQCxFY.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Jj6zEd0.jpg)
In a similar fashion, the tail was removed at station 19 (per the original) and the radio and accumulator hatches opened up.
As I knew I would need to assemble the fuselage many times as I worked out the interior bits, I decided to make the halves temporarily fasten together with tiny screws. In order to properly line things up so the holes and bosses were perfectly parallel to the vertical seams, I created a series of jigs for my drill press.
(https://i.imgur.com/dob1vu6.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/yvSpurk.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/0wk13VF.jpg)
voilá
(https://i.imgur.com/XHELDZl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/rYsfILz.jpg)
-
The new fuselage tub is to be printed. This is one of the many early iterations, each one fitting a little better than the last-- yes it is broken in front. The jagged seam will be addressed...
(https://i.imgur.com/70qlRNj.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/SGTCO0M.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/wj6pgoY.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/KEhfRSN.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/tWQC56E.jpg)
-
...first though, the fuselage walls need to be drastically thinned and blobby details removed. The grunt work is accomplished with an end mill and the trusty X-Y table.
(https://i.imgur.com/yfjUGAo.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Dg7ujNz.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/0K7kebZ.jpg)
The goal is a thickness of ~.5mm. Where the end mill won't reach, a hand held dremel will. The port side shows the desired outcome.
(https://i.imgur.com/OVWxI0l.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/5g3Tl9c.jpg)
-
Frame 11 is a major structural element. Among other things, the pilot's seat attaches to this bulkhead. The kit part is incorrect and sad.
(https://i.imgur.com/Mv5ghO2.jpg)
The original is a hollow structure made up of numerous riveted pieces, Here's one of my first attempts at a replacement:
(https://i.imgur.com/5uvpopG.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/3oADcQV.jpg)
The seat proper was on a removable framework that incorporated the raising / lowering mechanism.
(https://i.imgur.com/ehmq1Om.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/xEn9qVn.jpg)
Like the original, my seat framework is locked into place with functional "rifle" bolts (.001" brass wire)
(https://i.imgur.com/gzZNeJp.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Ek2u82H.jpg)
edit: typo
-
the kit seat has a lot of problems. It's not really the correct shape, the flare rack holes are too small and yet it is way oversized.
(https://i.imgur.com/AhhYQTG.jpg)
maybe it is designed around this guy. ::)
(https://i.imgur.com/hyXhX66.jpg)
My version is based around the early style all-metal seat. Later seats were made of an plastic-impregnated paper composite material.
(https://i.imgur.com/noNwYjJ.jpg)
The seat raising mechanism is functional:
(https://i.imgur.com/x8Ouqua.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/zGfgrjM.jpg)
-
Frame 9 & 10 aren't really represented in the kit. Frame 9 has the bearings for the rudder bar rods:
(https://i.imgur.com/ZbBqZxv.jpg)
Frame 10 has the attachment points for the rear wing spars (still to do).
(https://i.imgur.com/DqDmItp.jpg)
A test fit of what I've got so far, with yet another iteration of the tub:
(https://i.imgur.com/v4Eyqrp.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/fkoYSGg.jpg)
-
The upper interior portion of the cockpit is a single piece insert. This is another early development piece.
(https://i.imgur.com/REGcboV.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/4F4dYJa.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/K5A4Qwh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/9eCPeZJ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/aob6vOR.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/tDsyBlK.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/piA2RVq.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/2SI9dAr.jpg)
-
Oh dear goodness. This is stunning stuff, absolute state of the art. And I do mean Art.
It's funny, twenty-plus years ago, while wrestling with one of Eric Hight's (original) CSM white-metal engines, I made a throwaway comment on the WWI Mailing List about someday being able to fire up my computer and spit out a fully detailed Benz D.III... but what I didn't forsee was the hours and hours of design work that you'd have to put into creating the virtual model before you could push the button.
Hats off, Uncle. Can't wait to see where you take this.
Dave V.
-
but what I didn't forsee was the hours and hours of design work that you'd have to put into creating the virtual model before you could push the button.
Thanks much Dave :) Yep, I think you nailed it. We live it an age of amazing, accessible tools -- tools I dreamed of when i was a kid, but these things don't design themselves yet...
-
This is remarkable. I've just spent a few minutes properly absorbing each post - the detail here is incredible! Kudos and bring on the next update!!
-
Thanks Zac!
On with it, then. I have spent a lot of time working out the cockpit door. The goal is for it to open and close with a working latch mechanism, fit nicely when closed and hang properly when open. Complicating things further is the canopy track which is at a very slight angle to datum. A lot to juggle and I haven't quite perfected it yet, but it's hopefully getting closer.
The latch turned out to be the easy part. Like the original, pulling down on the lever withdraws the pins allowing the door to open.
(https://i.imgur.com/6oHvjm1.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/46WJwN8.jpg)
Getting the door to fit and open and close correctly has been more of a challenge. This is one of the first iterations of the door, before I fully understood that the top edge of the door was also the channel section that canopy runners run in. At this point I was simply matching what Airfix did, which is to say, wrong. Obviously the door doesn't sit in the opening correctly. The hinges are also quite a bit too large.
(https://i.imgur.com/KB8ksgd.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/htOs9GG.jpg)
A later iteration, with the channel corrected -- of course it doesn't match the kit any more but I'll get to that.
(https://i.imgur.com/GkGzT3r.jpg)
Confoundingly, the curve doesn't match at the rear.
(https://i.imgur.com/1meNVeH.jpg)
After much trial and error and many iterations, I finally discovered that my door wasn't conforming to the opening because the print (which has very thin walls) was warping due to my stingy use of supports. This version then is starting to get dialed in.
(https://i.imgur.com/aBJf6dk.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/2PVpf1m.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/BVjkFEL.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/uoMRF4E.jpg)
-
Meanwhile, work continues detailing the tub. I decided to divide and conquer, splitting the tub into three sections. This reduces material used and time between iterations.
This then is where I am currently with the forward section of the tub, which is the area ahead of the instrument panel where the fuel cells are located, comprising stations 5,6,7 & 8. Station 5 is the engine firewall and includes the stub spar for the front wing spars. The holes in the side of the tub are for the landing gear jacks.
(https://i.imgur.com/sfrJtA6.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/5zmxs3T.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/xUITczW.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/IMeA2H3.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/LElYib1.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/36LDPgP.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/uDXl6wQ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/vVCeKTk.jpg)
-
Finally (for now) I've been working on the radiator. Spitfire Mk Is were fitted with radiators with the core divided into 4 cells.
(https://i.imgur.com/UZN5RFB.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/bHdx6It.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/PaGROmv.jpg)
You can see through the fins ;D
(https://i.imgur.com/9gs3gMd.jpg)
here in place in the new tool Mk IXc wing -- not appropriate of course, but gives an idea...
(https://i.imgur.com/CnE4u6m.jpg)
Incidentally I have also scaled this down to 1/32 with the Kotare MkIa in mind, although it is anything but a drop in fit.
(https://i.imgur.com/rHQa86L.jpg)
-
Nice to see you back with a project! If this is, by definition, the Airfix kit all that's left is the "ix" I suspect it will be down to just the x by the end. Amazing work!
Steve
-
Nice to see you back with a project! If this is, by definition, the Airfix kit all that's left is the "ix" I suspect it will be down to just the x by the end. Amazing work!
Steve
Thanks Steve, nice to hear from you :)
-
Any chance you could show or list the tools in your arsenal? Resin 3D printer make etc and how do you create/cad the parts? I'm just venturing into the 3D printers.
Steve
-
Bo.. err Uncle Tony 8) Not only is it great to see you back and participating in the Forum but I must say this is mind boggling. To me as I often say this is All Dark Magic or Voodoo. You said years ago that this was the future of modeling. I can't help thinking that you and I thought it was farther away than it was. Lovely and amazing work old Friend.
RAGIII
-
Thanks buddy :-)
Speaking of Voodoo — somehow my username reverted to my original 2012 moniker and so far it has resisted all efforts to put it back. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ so uncletony it is. Whatever, just don’t call me late for dinner.
I’m impressed that you remember my ramblings on the subject from way back when. To me it’s coming on about when I expected—it’s just that time flies, right?
-
Any chance you could show or list the tools in your arsenal? Resin 3D printer make etc and how do you create/cad the parts? I'm just venturing into the 3D printers.
Steve
Sure Steve —For printer I have a humble Phrozen Mini 8K. I’ll probably buy another — one for prototyping and the other for production. For cleaning and curing I likewise have the Phrozen system. I use 99% isopropyl for cleaning; the tank holds 8 liters, and I keep it full. I filter out the cleaning solution about once a month. As for resin, for production parts I use 90% Phrozen Aqua 8K, 10% Siraya Tenacious Obsidian. For rapid prototyping I like Siraya Fast Grey Metal. For CAD I use Rhino3D. I’m actually on a fairly ancient version (5.5) but it does just about everything I need. For slicing / supports I use the free version of Chitubox.
Regarding workflow creating parts, it’s a mostly a matter of careful measuring, finding good drawings, and setting up the project workspace with solid datums. Of course you need to be fluent in knowing what sort of tool to use to create a certain kind of shape or solid. That comes with practice. 90% of what I make starts out as some kind of extrusion. One pro tip: Chitubox doesn’t care if stl meshes are unioned — you can simply have overlapping solids and Cbox will happily treat them as a single watertight solid. Great for iterating…
I guess I should add that figuring out how to optimally orient parts for printing is a black art. You are juggling print speed, layer integrity, support cruft, and print artifacts among other things. Again, trial and error, iteration… there is guidance online but beware of dogma…
-
Thanks for that. I follow most of what you describe. Chitubox looks to be a big help.
Steve
-
Thanks for that. I follow most of what you describe. Chitubox looks to be a big help.
Steve
Well you definitely need something to create printer-ready sliced files from .stl and Chitubox is a free option. Supports and rafts are another matter. You can create your own supports in the source CAD file if you you wish, and sometimes you might actually want to. The auto support mode tends to create a jungle, and doing it manually in Chitubox is tedious and lacks precision. For the ladder & trestle I recently made I did the supports in CAD because I wanted greater control...
(https://i.imgur.com/lhUzgS5.jpg)
-
Wonderful to see you back re-engineering a kit! This is truly amazing work and takes me back to Gerry Scarborough's effort to improve the model via the book published shortly after the kit was released. Sadly I no longer have the book but it was almost at the limit of modelling at the time. Just how things have changed in the years since 1971!
I am really looking forward to seeing more of this, although I will stick to my (antique) methods of scratch building as I completely lack any computer skill.
Stephen.
-
Thanks Stephen, nice to reconnect:-)
I’ve heard of the Scarborough book but have never seen it…
-
1 step forward, 2 steps back dept:
Working on reengineering the tub / interior wall pieces so that a) they are printable without supports in awful places b) fit together and are relatively easy to assemble c) have seams that match the original panels wherever possible, and d) match the drawings and fit with the remaining kit parts.
I made a tool to trim the fuselage opening edges, this allows me to corroborate the kit parts with my CAD. trimmed areas will be replaced with new material. This includes the canopy channels and the door opening edges, both of which are slightly mislocated.
(https://i.imgur.com/22I8zz9.jpg)
The complete tub enclosure will be comprised of 6 or 7 pieces. this is the mostly finished forward floor part (with the old frame 5 for fit test). I need to add the opening for the signal lamp fixture in the floor.
(https://i.imgur.com/8XsniKb.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/uCgJV5X.jpg)
Compare to the Spitfire MKIXc (new tool Airfix 1/24)
(https://i.imgur.com/iLgqVse.jpg)
and Kotare MkIa 1/32
(https://i.imgur.com/ysNS5v6.jpg)
-
Although I am not qualified to comment on the process and accomplishment of making your parts, I can say they look Incredible to Me!
RAGIII
-
I need to go out to the shop and get the floor jack to raise my jaw back up from where it drops every time I look at this thread...
Dave V.
-
I've only just now found this thread and I have to say it's very impressive.
It may not take much more effort for you to design a complete Spitfire and then be able to resize into different scales, making it available on your website.
-
Thanks for the comments guys :)
It may not take much more effort for you to design a complete Spitfire and then be able to resize into different scales, making it available on your website.
:) You aren't the first person to suggest simply binning the kit and redoing the entire thing. It's true there won't be a lot left of the original kit when I'm done... But styrene is for sure better suited to large pieces than even my special resin brew. Printing really large parts is also quite time consuming at full resolution, and the longer the print job, the greater likelihood that something will get boogered up. I am thinking about how to package a replacement cockpit that the average modeler would not be overly daunted by -- so maybe replacing the entire center section of the fuselage might be the answer. Not sure. There is also the Trumpeter Mk V that needs love in this regard.
As for other scales -- stuff doesn't scale up and down quite as easily as you might expect, as one always has to take wall and wire sizes into account. That said, eyes firmly set on producing detail parts for the really excellent Kotare kits (I've already done the radiator in 1/32)... as for 1/48 & 1/72 ... not sure, maybe a few things I could bring to those parties.
Thanks for reading!
-
Not really my scale but looking great!
Andreas
-
Progress on the interior tub continues, but meanwhile, working on designing the throttle quadrant. Early and mid production Spitfires had a slightly simpler throttle quadrant with mixture and and throttle, switches for the stall warning horn and undercarriage down circuit indicator, and a boost cutout override. Notably, no propeller pitch control. (On the two-speed DH equipped a/c, the pitch control was a simple pull handle).
(https://i.imgur.com/wcBx76L.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/y3VULJf.jpg)
-
First test print above mentioned throttle quadrant.
(https://i.imgur.com/bsFKzM1.jpg)
comparison with new (left) and old (right) tool airfix kit items:
(https://i.imgur.com/mC7oifD.jpg)
Trial assembly -- a few things to fix, but mostly it goes together as planned.
(https://i.imgur.com/kqTtk1d.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/U0CtIEI.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/lvXdgOc.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/htROtwt.jpg)
-
As mentioned, work continues on the tub / cockpit interior panels. The lower tub is now made up of 7 pieces, 5 of which are at least in the preliminary design stage. The rear most side panels (between frames 12 - 14) are not ready to print.
(https://i.imgur.com/bMfPmD1.jpg)
The forward side panel is actually complete for all intents and purposes. The large "rivets" are the back sides of the fillet screws.
(https://i.imgur.com/4b7NkFK.jpg)
For reference, here are the similar parts for the Airfix Mk IXc 1/24:
(https://i.imgur.com/Q1ldsVm.jpg)
and the 1/32 Kotare Mk I:
(https://i.imgur.com/mPr3D8g.jpg)
-
I should just start tying a bandage around my head to keep my jaw from dropping before I look at this thread...
Dave V.
-
Just catching up... Wow just wow! Incredible work!
-
Man oh man, this is simply stunning to behold.
-
Thanks Ben & Zac!
Next up, the manual hydraulic pump and selector for the landing gear retraction. The first batches of Spitfires left the factory with manually powered gear pumps, which were adapted from units sourced from Supermarine Walruses --with the expedient of bending the long pump handle nearly 90° to fit in the cramped Spitfire cockpit.
(https://i.imgur.com/DzROaaM.jpg)
When exactly Spitfire production transistioned away from this system to the engine-driven pump is a little bit of a mystery, as it seems that the powered version was planned and designed in from the outset but initially left off in the interest of conserving engine power -- or maybe there was a shortage of engine driven pumps -- the exact reason might be lost to time. FWIW, the switch to powered undercarriage retraction does not appear in the exhaustive list of modifications presented in the definitive Morgan & Shacklady Spitfire history -- strongly suggesting the powered version was not a "modification" at all. Moreover early pilot manuals and training films mention both systems.
My version comprises three printed pieces, with axles (and optionally pushrods) to be created with brass tubing or wire. Carefully assembled, the pump lever can swing freely and the selector lever can move and lock into each of the two detents. It should be possible to add the pushrods -- I was in a hurry to do a basic test fit, so I haven't attempted to do so yet.
Kotare 1/32 on the left, Airfix 1/24 (Old Tool) on right. The Airfix 1/24 part is measurably smaller than the 1/32 Kotare item(!) While I couldn't find drawings with precise dimensions for this unit, via interpolation I am confident I am close. (And my part is essentially 1.5x the size of the Kotare part)
(https://i.imgur.com/YyKs1qk.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/RW7BqUc.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/c7QxkLE.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/KazYYBa.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/KIzqyeB.jpg)
-
I think that's dead-on, your version looks fantastic! It's truly staggering to see how far we've come in 53 (sorry) years.
-
Apparently when the manual gear retraction was used the pilot had to switch hands on the joystick to pump the gear up. With each stroke the pilot would also unintentionally slightly push/pull the joystick. Scrambled Spitfires looked like a school of dolphins taking off.
Steve
-
Apparently when the manual gear retraction was used the pilot had to switch hands on the joystick to pump the gear up. With each stroke the pilot would also unintentionally slightly push/pull the joystick. Scrambled Spitfires looked like a school of dolphins taking off.
Steve
Right! I believe this was depicted in the “Piece of Cake” mini series on BBC…
-
More development of the complicated structure that supports the rudder bar and control column, and serves as a kind of floor board. This area seems to get glossed over in most treatments of this subject. My first try parts for the central structure has some minor fit issues; v2 is in the hopper...
(https://i.imgur.com/Y47AZfO.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/RK15eaH.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/KpL3HKP.jpg)
-
Renders of the next iteration. Frame 9 as well as the floorboard/ kickplate rudder support/ whatacallit structure has been extensively modified in hopes of getting the fit to coalesce. Parts are curing now!
(https://i.imgur.com/YcceNrL.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/G9degOX.jpg)
-
Some scarily brilliant work and a huge amount knowledge you are pouring into this project. It's going to be so beautiful!
Richie
-
Some scarily brilliant work and a huge amount knowledge you are pouring into this project. It's going to be so beautiful!
Richie
Thanks Richie
Trial assembly -- learned a few things! but rudder bar and elevator control column both are functional...
(https://i.imgur.com/TeBi01i.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/HqmqM0o.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/hyD4ujk.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/L7FbnNV.jpg)
-
It is simply amazing what can be achieved with this 3D printing technology: provided that one has the time, patience and skill to use it!
Another wonderful, (and mind blowing), update!
Stephen.
-
Great detail, but how are you going to detail paint it?
-
Great detail, but how are you going to detail paint it?
Have to figure out how to put it all together first. Once it’s worked out, I’ll remake a production version (these are low res, fast prints) to be painted before assembly per usual practice…
-
a little more progress.
(https://i.imgur.com/0z3us04.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Os10E11.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/pKfdg0R.jpg)
-
(these are low res, fast prints)
:o you could've fooled me! Wow!
-
Just keep getting impressed!
Also dont know how you get so perfect prints. My prints are usually not this clean. My latest print of a Vickers seat was not good enough, backrest was too soft/thin and the part was bulging out.
I have a ABS / flex resin I mixed, but I think I have to try a better suited resin for this task :)
-
I have a ABS / flex resin I mixed, but I think I have to try a better suited resin for this task :)
ABS is probably not the best starting point for detail parts (although should be strong!). My go-to is Phrozen Aqua 8K mixed with Siraya Tenacious at 9:1. Beyond that it's usually a matter of getting exposure and lift timing right. A good test model helps. Ameralabs has a great calibration test .stl file you can grab for free: https://ameralabs.com/blog/3d-printer-calibration-part/
-
(these are low res, fast prints)
:o you could've fooled me! Wow!
yup, the stuff shown above was all done @ 50um layer height. Final versions will be printed at 20um, the prints just take much longer, but the layer lines and staircasing are virtually invisible.
-
I have a ABS / flex resin I mixed, but I think I have to try a better suited resin for this task :)
ABS is probably not the best starting point for detail parts (although should be strong!). My go-to is Phrozen Aqua 8K mixed with Siraya Tenacious at 9:1. Beyond that it's usually a matter of getting exposure and lift timing right. A good test model helps. Ameralabs has a great calibration test .stl file you can grab for free: https://ameralabs.com/blog/3d-printer-calibration-part/
Thank you Tony!
Yes its very strong! Need to be throwing it to break the part. Had some accidents with other resins being to brittle and snap in half.
I usually go with Cones of Calibration, they are very easy to read. Interesting with the lift timing - have to read more about it.
I have some Phrozen Aqua 4k, maybe I should retry the print. Its a fun learning experience.
In any case, thanks for the tips. I really enjoy following the build evolve :)
-
I usually go with Cones of Calibration, they are very easy to read. Interesting with the lift timing - have to read more about it.
Whatever works! The Ameralabs "town" test piece is free for the price of giving them an email address. So far I have not been bombarded with marketing spam from them. Anyway the little town test will really give your printer a workout -- if you can print all of the details on it successfully, you will know you have it locked in for making detail parts for your models.
(https://ameralabs.b-cdn.net/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/calibrationparttownchange1.jpg)
-
yup, the stuff shown above was all done @ 50um layer height. Final versions will be printed at 20um, the prints just take much longer, but the layer lines and staircasing are virtually invisible.
Incredible. Thanks for explaining!