forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Under Construction => Topic started by: kensar on May 26, 2023, 08:53:35 AM
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Well, someone had to be first, so it may as well be me.
This is my build of the Roden Sopwith Strutter. I am replacing the engine with a Vector Clerget 9B, which fortunately looks like it will fit in the kit cowling.
(https://i.postimg.cc/R0sHN893/Roden-Sopwith-Strutter-01.jpg)
I am planning to represent a Strutter from the US 90th aero squadron, so it will have the French 5 color camouflage scheme.
On opening the box, it appears to be the usual Roden kit. Ample opportunity to improve the build with scratchbuilt parts (just the way I like them). I noticed some interior details are not complete, such as the flap mechanism and the adjustable tailplane system needs some cables. The elevator mechanism also needs a few pieces.
So, to start, a few pictures of where I'm at.
The Vector engine builds up nicely.
(https://i.postimg.cc/bwRbjrB9/Roden-Sopwith-Strutter-02.jpg)
Not quite done with it yet. I frequently skip around in a build to avoid burning out on it.
(https://i.postimg.cc/yNYR6Bq4/Roden-Sopwith-Strutter-04.jpg)
The interior starts off with a coat of CDL colored paint, followed by masking to paint in the wooden framework.
(https://i.postimg.cc/bwPbMk3v/Roden-Sopwith-Strutter-03.jpg)
So, I'm just getting started on this. Tally Ho!
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I cannot say how excited I am to see this build start. I have a creeping feeling one of these kits is in my future and I am very, very keen to see how you approach the build.
Excellent start!
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Glad to see one being built up Kensar. You have gotten off to a great start.
Tim
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Awesome! When I finally get one of these I will have your build to follow! Nice start Ken.
RAGIII
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Fantastic, I've been so looking forward to seeing this kit on a bench and am so happy it's on yours Ken! :)
Richie
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Great start! Do you cover the entire interior with tape and then cut out the framing or mask between each frame?
Steve
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Thanks for seeing me off to a good start everyone.
Steve - I masked over the entire interior and cut out the framing, like it was a framed canopy. This worked well on a Sopwith Pup I did.
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Thanks for the info.
Steve
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I keep my fingers crossed for further work, the beginning promises to be nice. The model is definitely a challenge.
Lukasz
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Update - more work on the interior
After painting the wood color on the framework, I sprayed a flat lacquer, then rubbed in some pastel chalk for a dirty look. Oil stains added. Then glued in the bracing wire. This is 0.008" beading wire that was stretched to straighten and stiffen it. Added brass tubing for the turnbuckles. This picture has too high a contrast. The wood color is lighter.
(https://i.postimg.cc/J7xf4W9R/Roden-Sopwith-Strutter-05.jpg)
Floorboards were painted wood color and a woodgrain decal was applied.
(https://i.postimg.cc/D0vRdCbV/Roden-Sopwith-Strutter-06.jpg)
Finished painting on the engine. Needs spark plugs and wires.
(https://i.postimg.cc/0jVFtppz/Roden-Sopwith-Strutter-07.jpg)
The cowling surface was quite rough, so it got primed, polished, and primed again.
(https://i.postimg.cc/fLj6d4yj/Roden-Sopwith-Strutter-08.jpg)
Thoroughly enjoying this build!
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How nice! I am happy to join in and watch how this kit builds up! You did a great job with all the wooden stringers on the inside.
Andreas
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The Masking and painting of the wood worked really well. The engine is gorgeous. I Love the dirty look on the interior. Looking forward to more awesome work on this one Ken!
RAGIII
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That engine...oh for a "chef's kiss" emoji!
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Hey Ken - lovely build so far. Great worn effect on interior and the engine looks much better than the Roden original. These are great, relatively inexpensive, kits to build OOB or go to town with improvements like your goodself.
I think I probably started the kit first, over on the "Aircraft" section, but I'm such a slow builder, you will certainly be first to finish, even though you are putting in so much more detail than me!
Please don't think I'm photobombing you, but maybe a timely warning? I got to the stage shown below, when Simon Cornes very kindly offered to take pics in the rear office of the Strutter at RAF Cosford.
Damn, the glaring omissions in my build are the roundel markings showing through the interior fabric. As you see, I'd closed up and couldn't add them, but if your subject has these you may, or not of course, want to think about them?
You'll find Simon's very useful pictures here: https://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=13821.0
Hope that helps - but it may like me, cause gnashing of teeth - Sorry
Sandy
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Simon's interior roundel shot
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Sandy, I'm terribly sorry to step on your toes about being the first to start a build thread. I did not see your posting. Your build looks very good!
I do have Simon's pictures and they are very helpful.
My model will not have the roundels on the fuselage, so no see through roundel.
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Ken, please, no problem. I'll still be thinking about colour schemes when yours is complete.
And it'll be a beaut.
Sandy
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Simon's interior roundel shot
I missed your start of this kit Sandy. You should put it up here on the Under Construction Heading 8)
RAGIII
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Cheers Rick - maybe a few pics when it's done.
But meanwhile let's all enjoy this terrific LCT that Ken's working his magic upon.
Sandy
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More 'magic'...
The cowling has a reinforcement ring on the front that is riveted around the cowling opening. I machined such a piece, not having the capability to photoetch one.
Here I am drilling shallow holes to simulate the rivets. Next I parted the piece off in the lathe.
(https://i.postimg.cc/26bSyr4V/Roden-Sopwith-Strutter-09.jpg)
Here's a test fit.
(https://i.postimg.cc/7Z96QBHY/Roden-Sopwith-Strutter-11.jpg)
It was too bright, so I painted on a flat coat to better match the rest of the cowling.
I haven't fitted the spark plug wires and may not, as I tend to make a glue bomb of that job.
(https://i.postimg.cc/QN7MrN8z/Roden-Sopwith-Strutter-13.jpg)
Then I went back to the interior. Here's the rudder bar with PE turnbuckles and the pilot's floorboard.
(https://i.postimg.cc/SRcQLd14/Roden-Sopwith-Strutter-15.jpg)
There's two details that Roden left out that I thought should be on the model - the pulley that activates the air brakes, which is visible on the observer's floor and the bottom of the control stick which is visible on the underside of the fuselage. I milled this slot into the bottom of the fuse and will later put in a half-round piece that represents the bottom of the control stick. It will be partially covered with a thin metal cover.
(https://i.postimg.cc/5tktf6Qh/Roden-Sopwith-Strutter-16.jpg)
Here, I've added more interior detail - more pieces for the air brake actuator and cables for the adjustable tail plane. Next will be some fuel lines from the gas tank. I plan to hook up the rudder and tail skid cables after the sides are on. Keeping my fingers crossed that this will work out.
(https://i.postimg.cc/zX1GDm3G/Roden-Sopwith-Strutter-17.jpg)
I'll be trying to work out the elevator cable routing next.
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Congratulations Ken.
Your interior is wonderful.
Here is a link to help you with the internal cables.
https://www.memorial-flight.com/sopwith-strutter?pgid=krn9hfw5-c9cd37ef-ef82-11eb-91b0-0a98b687d417&lang=en
Spyros
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Wow Ken! I am really impressed with your work on this one...No surprise as your work is always superior!!
RAGIII
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Really cool work Ken. The cowl ring you machined is simply amazing! Very nice additional detail work you’ve added in the interior as well.
All the best,
Tim
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That’s getting better and better! Really nice interior!
Andreas
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I'm always impressed with parts made on a lathe. Wish I had that skill!
Steve
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The cowling work is beautiful!
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Great to see the Rodens Strutter on your bench. And your results are just spectacular, the interior, the engine, the cowling with that reinforcing ring! Just wow!
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Fantastic work so far, Ken. That piece for the cowling you've made is amazing.
Cheers,
Gary
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The interior looks wonderfully realistic. That cowling reinforcement band is superb. I'm wondering how it is possible to remove such a thin sliver on the lathe without it folding up. It must have required immense concentration.
Richie
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Thank you for the very kind comments, everyone, and especially Spyros and Simon for the reference pictures. Now I see there are a few more details to be added!
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Wow! Really beautiful, amazing work!
Warren
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Sorry Ken but I have not been around very much lately, and I have missed tis before. This is superb modelling - all of those extra details etc. The cowling ring is a stunner - oh to have the tools to be able to make one of those!
Stephen.
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I'm seconding Stephen. Heavens to Elzbeth as my mom used to say!
Just lovely and so real.
Dan
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Thanks for the encouraging words Warren, Dan, and Stephen.
I have a small update here. Precious little visible progress after a week's worth of work, but I have glued the fuse halves together after adding a fuel tank sight glass on the right side of the cockpit and installed the observer's floor board. The wing is fitted in order to glue in the floorboard and be sure its in the right place. I have also added the forward floorboard to the cockpit which is omitted from the kit but is seen in numerous pictures.
(https://i.postimg.cc/dDMWzDxc/Roden-Sopwith-Strutter-18.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/x8NxxLgP/Roden-Sopwith-Strutter-19.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/zBc2FxwB/Roden-Sopwith-Strutter-20.jpg)
By far the most difficult thing to install were the bell cranks right behind the pilot's seat where the elevator control cables are attached. These cables are run out of the fuse sides and I'll have to paint around them.
Still lots of work in the interior, but it's coming together.
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Still lots of work in the interior, but it's coming together.
It most certainly is! She's looking terrific - truly aspirational work.
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Really Awesome work Ken! Very Inspiring!
RAGIII
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By far the most difficult thing to install were the bell cranks right behind the pilot's seat where the elevator control cables are attached. These cables are run out of the fuse sides and I'll have to paint around them.
Still lots of work in the interior, but it's coming together.
Hi Kent,
How about attaching the lines inside with the lines long enough to reach the elevator control horns when connected.
Leave all of the lines inside the fuselage with just the ends through the fuselage holes.
Jam the lines in the holes with the end of sharpened toothpicks.
After painting, remove the jams and pull the lines out for connecting to the elevator,
Mike
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Thanks for the comment, guys.
Mike - I have thought about that and it's still an option. I am concerned that when I pulled the lines back out, they may be caught on details inside and I wouldn't be able to pull them out all the way. I could also pull the lines all the way inside the interior and paint the fuse before attaching the top of the fuselage. I would leave the fuel tank out until after the painting as well.
So, I have a couple of options.
Ken
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Next update.
I have added more screw head detail on the bottom of the fuse.
(https://i.postimg.cc/W4VF0W06/Roden-Sopwith-Strutter-21.jpg)
Connected the control cables to the rudder and tail skid.
(https://i.postimg.cc/ZqL9H8ck/Roden-Sopwith-Strutter-22.jpg)
I found some PE rings that were just the right size for the reinforcements around the fuel tank and oil tank caps.
New caps made on the lathe and mill.
(https://i.postimg.cc/8zMfJQfz/Roden-Sopwith-Strutter-23.jpg)
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I really dig the subtle but naturalistic weathering on the inner canvas and floorboards. What is your secret?
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More superb Modeling Ken! As always I am looking forward to the next bit of Modeling Magic!
RAGIII
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I love your added details Ken, the fuel tank caps are little gems. This is moving along at quite a pace and in great style.
Richie
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I might be a little late to the party, but what a party it is! You're really showing what can be done with Roden's kit.
/Fredrik
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Very, very nice! I really like your eye for the detail!
Andreas
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Very convincing interior Ken. Nice scratch additions to the exterior as well. I’m enjoying watching your progress.
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Great job on the interior.
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Thanks for the supportive comments, folks.
PJ - I have been developing a 'method' for achieving a weathered, used look. It usually involves 2 to 3 types of weathering techniques. In general, I prefer the lighter weathering vs. extremely heavy weathering.
For the interior here, I sprayed Tamiya racing white (which is a light tan-yellow) from a rattle can, for the CDL color. Then masked and painted the wood parts. Next, spray a light coat of Testors lacquer dull coat to give some 'tooth' to the surfaces. Pastel chalks can be rubbed on for a softer, dirty look. Flicking AK Interactive engine grime from a paint brush gives the oily dirty drips. Then Tamiya Weather Master 'powders' (which has a greasy texture like women's makeup) is rubbed on certain areas where dirty hands may contact surfaces.
Pin washes are used in some areas, usually where there is fine detail. This is Future with black pastel chalk in it. It will be glossy when dried, so a flat coat may be needed.
I haven't conquered the water based pastel washes, as they leave 'tide' marks when trying - the color pigment doesn't retreat into the corners like an oil based or enamel based pin wash does. Using a surfactant, like Simple Green helps, but I just haven't been completely satisfied with it yet.
I've heard about Flory Clay washes. It's probably a product I need to try.
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PJ - I have been developing a 'method' for achieving a weathered, used look. It usually involves 2 to 3 types of weathering techniques. In general, I prefer the lighter weathering vs. extremely heavy weathering.
For the interior here, I sprayed Tamiya racing white (which is a light tan-yellow) from a rattle can, for the CDL color. Then masked and painted the wood parts. Next, spray a light coat of Testors lacquer dull coat to give some 'tooth' to the surfaces. Pastel chalks can be rubbed on for a softer, dirty look. Flicking AK Interactive engine grime from a paint brush gives the oily dirty drips. Then Tamiya Weather Master 'powders' (which has a greasy texture like women's makeup) is rubbed on certain areas where dirty hands may contact surfaces.
Pin washes are used in some areas, usually where there is fine detail. This is Future with black pastel chalk in it. It will be glossy when dried, so a flat coat may be needed.
I haven't conquered the water based pastel washes, as they leave 'tide' marks when trying - the color pigment doesn't retreat into the corners like an oil based or enamel based pin wash does. Using a surfactant, like Simple Green helps, but I just haven't been completely satisfied with it yet.
I've heard about Flory Clay washes. It's probably a product I need to try.
good stuff, thanks for sharing. i need more practice like this
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Lovely work Ken, I'm enjoying watching this come together.
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Just one word:
BLIMEY!
Willem
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Finally back with an update on this one. I've been researching and working on tedious details on the exterior.
Installed tubing for the control cables.
(https://i.postimg.cc/sgLhNSrg/Roden-Sopwith-Strutter-27.jpg)
Here is the pulleys for the ailerons, made on the lathe.
(https://i.postimg.cc/nhrm22NW/Roden-Sopwith-Strutter-26.jpg)
Now I've got some paint on. The machines that the 90th aero squadron used where formerly French machines. They had the five color camo paint, and I believe, the light yellow / tan color ecru on the bottom. At least mine will. They likely also had the French roundels, too. This is the ecru color on the bottom.
(https://i.postimg.cc/RF5nMBqr/Roden-Sopwith-Strutter-24.jpg)
Also, there are reinforcement patches where control cables come through the covering, which I have added in the form of decal film. There are also leather wear patches, such as the one shown here, on the horizontal stabilizer where the control cables can rub on the covering. These are decal film also.
(https://i.postimg.cc/xdbzDCfy/Roden-Sopwith-Strutter-25.jpg)
One detail I noticed was that I have not found a single period photo of a Strutter with the elevator control horn positioned where they are in the kit. I have found a couple of line drawings, but not a single photo. Strutters were made by a number of companies, and likely at least one put the control horns where the kit ones are, but I will move the horns one rib bay outward, near the bracing cables for the vertical stabilizer.
Hopefully the next update will be soon!
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Awesome Details Ken! Really looking great!
RAGIII
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Fantastic! Especially those aileron Control cable pulleys.
Andreas
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Lovely. And those pulleys... just wow.
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One detail I noticed was that I have not found a single period photo of a Strutter with the elevator control horn positioned where they are in the kit. I have found a couple of line drawings, but not a single photo. Strutters were made by a number of companies, and likely at least one put the control horns where the kit ones are, but I will move the horns one rib bay outward, near the bracing cables for the vertical stabilizer.
Hopefully the next update will be soon!
Ken, thank you for the correct observation regarding the elevator horns. It's something I hadn't noticed, despite my study of this particular aircraft. No period photographs included in the Windsock Datafiles confirm Roden's position. Roden's mistake is that she relied on the blueprints included in the datafiles.
You saved me from a big mistake in the model I'm building alongside yours.
(https://www.mchost.gr/thumb/8dd2c7955c/76276_md.jpg) (https://www.mchost.gr/v/76276)
THΑNKS
Spyros
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I just received the Summer 2023 issues of Cross and Cockade International. The front cover features a color photo of a CDL covered Hanriot built Sopwith 1 1/2 Strutter of Escadrille SOP 107 with the Egyptian flying snake fuselage art. The article has many photographs
plus there are five color profiles on the inside and outside rear cover.
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I just received the Summer 2023 issues of Cross and Cockade International. The front cover features a color photo of a CDL covered Hanriot built Sopwith 1 1/2 Strutter of Escadrille SOP 107 with the Egyptian flying snake fuselage art. The article has many photographs
plus there are five color profiles on the inside and outside rear cover.
Thank you Berman!
Is the article and are the profiles of that individual Strutter only?
Greetings,
Richard
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Richard,
Many photos of Strutters flown by the French. Color profiles are Sopwith built Type 9400 in CDL, Liore' built Sopwith 1A2 No. 1044 silver with large winged heraldry shield, REP built Sopwith 1A2 silver with stylized letters Nenette on fuselage, REP built Sopwith 1B2 No. 3374 silver with red and blue markings and hobo rabbit in a red circle personal fuselage art, and a SACA built Sopwith 1A2
No. 5268 formerly overall silver with red, white, and blue fuselage pennant but shown with green splotchy camo on fuselage after given to the Czechoslovak Legion to fight the Red Army. In this role, it only lasted a month in 1919 before handed over with other aircraft to the White Army.
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Richard,
Many photos of Strutters flown by the French. Color profiles are Sopwith built Type 9400 in CDL, Liore' built Sopwith 1A2 No. 1044 silver with large winged heraldry shield, REP built Sopwith 1A2 silver with stylized letters Nenette on fuselage, REP built Sopwith 1B2 No. 3374 silver with red and blue markings and hobo rabbit in a red circle personal fuselage art, and a SACA built Sopwith 1A2
No. 5268 formerly overall silver with red, white, and blue fuselage pennant but shown with green splotchy camo on fuselage after given to the Czechoslovak Legion to fight the Red Army. In this role, it only lasted a month in 1919 before handed over with other aircraft to the White Army.
Wow, thank you once more, Berman!
My idea is to build Roden's Strutter as an USAS training plane, but did not find much information besides a few photos. And then I hope for a single-seat Strutter, which I would love to see wit decals for Capt. Beauchamp's „Ariel“!
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Terrific progress Ken, you’ve got me even more excited to receive and get started on my own!
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Thanks for the replies and comments.
A small update: Paint
I have the main colors on now.
(https://i.postimg.cc/tCNwTG4w/Roden-Sopwith-Strutter-28.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/zXr48G8T/Roden-Sopwith-Strutter-29.jpg)
I'm thinking that since this was a French machine, the fittings should be painted French blue. Several pictures of French Strutters have a dark color surrounding the cockpit. I don't know what color this is, but I am leaning toward making this a dark woodgrain panel. The struts will be a woodgrain also.
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She's looking good, Ken. The five-color scheme automatically makes any model look better, and yours was beautiful to begin with!
Dave V.
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I have not seen many Strutters painted in the five color scheme. This is looking great and interesting to see something different.
Cheers,
Tim
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I Love that color scheme! Well Done Ken! It looks like Sopwith is going to open a production line for the Strutter in their NC> Mountain Facility. I am glad I have your build to refer to 8)
RAGIII
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Great update. Love the paint!
Steve
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Looking great, Ken.
I'm so used to working on RFC Strutters, it's great to see one in French raiment - but of course almost three times as many were built in France!
Lovely work.
Sandy
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Yes, looking good, indeed!
I want my Strutter to become a USAS-trainer plane: Same camouflage, US-roundels (wherever I'll get them from…).
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Great colours! Painted roundels under there?
/Fredrik
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Impressive work! Colors are looking great :D
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Thanks for stopping by, everyone.
I will be painting the roundels next. I will be making all the markings myself. Although this plane was flown by the USAS, it came from the French and carried all the French markings, apparently.
I am basing the paint scheme on Mr. Grasse's research.
https://www.histomin.com/Aviation/World%20War%201%20Aviation/WW1%20US%20Aircraft/WW1%20Sopwith%201.B2%20US%2090th%20AS/gpww1%20Sopwith%20Strutter%201.htm
I hope it's mostly correct!
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Lovely smooth paintwork Ken. French camouflage schemes are so eye catching, especially when so beautifully executed.
Richie
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And the national markings go on
(https://i.postimg.cc/Hn8fg7Xb/Roden-Sopwith-Strutter-30.jpg)
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Somehow the model Always looks Even Better with Markings applied. Yours is no different ! Lovely results!
RAGIII
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Even lovelier still with the markings painted.
Richie
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Lovely colours!
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I concur, that camo really pops. I like it!
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Sharp!
In the latest Cross&Cockade is a photo showing rows of USAS 1/1/2 Strutters -some already have USAS roundels, too. Most still wear the French roundels, something I'd never realized.
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Thanks for stopping by and commenting, everyone.
This past week I spent time applying filters and washes to the main parts. Also started scratchbuilding an instrument panel and detail painting a few things.
It doesn't show up well, but I have toned down the colors with a gray filter that gives a dusty look.
(https://i.postimg.cc/jqp8Mj5p/Roden-Sopwith-Strutter-34.jpg)
Added rib shadows and pastel discoloration.
(https://i.postimg.cc/HWcZ0Mp0/Roden-Sopwith-Strutter-35.jpg)
I decided to scratch build another IP. Here I am parting off one of the ignition switches.
(https://i.postimg.cc/Y0Wdt5XD/Roden-Sopwith-Strutter-33.jpg)
Here are the instrument bezels and associated face decals, along with the switches and compass.
(https://i.postimg.cc/bJM6cyR2/Roden-Sopwith-Strutter-31.jpg)
Wheels, seat, and the air intake pipes made from aluminum tubing.
(https://i.postimg.cc/LXhybYjp/Roden-Sopwith-Strutter-32.jpg)
I'll need to make an ammunition box to go right behind the IP as well.
Thanks for stopping by.
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The toned down camo looks great Ken. That IP will certainly be remarkable. I had thought about the ammo box but opted out for two reasons. 1. I had no idea what it looked like and 2. I don't think much of it will be seen ! I look forward to your progress.
RAGIII
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Great job on the instrument panel. Will you also add the fuel feed selectors?
The toned down camo looks great Ken. That IP will certainly be remarkable. I had thought about the ammo box but opted out for two reasons. 1. I had no idea what it looked like and 2. I don't think much of it will be seen ! I look forward to your progress.
RAGIII
Rick, just needs a simple copy from the corresponding Sopwith Pup (WNW) ammo box.
Spyros
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The ammo box is nothing fancy. It just hangs down below the bottom of the IP.
I plan to add a pulsometer and a fuel cutoff valve. These are not pictured above.
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The ammo box is nothing fancy. It just hangs down below the bottom of the IP.
I plan to add a pulsometer and a fuel cutoff valve. These are not pictured above.
I find you absolutely correct Ken
Spyros
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Those machined instruments are incredible!
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Individually turned instruments! The panel is going to be magnificent. Modelling brilliance going on here!
Richie
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Magnificently mad!!
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Beautiful work! I really like your use of filters.
Warren
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Wow! I can’t wait to see the instrument panel. Beautiful build!
All the best,
Tim
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A couple of detail shots.
(https://i.postimg.cc/jS7HZ0bs/Roden-Sopwith-Strutter-37.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/ZRT6bWyR/Roden-Sopwith-Strutter-38.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/GpPknFtV/Roden-Sopwith-Strutter-39.jpg)
I plan to go back to the interior next to finish it off.
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That’s it. I surrender!
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That panel....W O W !!!!
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Amazing instrument panel, that is just perfection and those pulleys, wow!!!!!!
Another white flag being waved here! :)
Richie
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Unbelievable IP Ken! The pulleys are also Incredible. I guess I could throw a Tarp over My cockpit opening ;D
RAGIII
PS: It seems it is becoming a habit. You show the Possibilities of what can be done with Roden kits and I just what comes in the box.
RAGIII
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Thanks for the encouraging comments, everyone. The IP did turn out well. Pity it won't be very visible, though.
I have since moved on to the landing gear. I am using monofilament and tubing to depict the flying wires and braces. I wrapped thread over the molded bungee cord for a more realistic appearance. As can be seen, I have added the bottom of the control stick and its cover. I assumed the metal landing gear mounting parts were painted blue since this was originally a French machine.
(https://i.postimg.cc/KzPsCX7h/Roden-Sopwith-Strutter-40.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/hG7YbQfj/Roden-Sopwith-Strutter-41.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/XJSz2NCg/Roden-Sopwith-Strutter-42.jpg)
I see I still need to add the lower end of the flying wires, which were attached at the rear landing gear mounting points, and some cross brace wires under the forward metal panel.
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Stunning work, Ken, and thanks for sharing it all... I doubt my skillset will ever gain enough altitude to achieve the level of detail you and so many others consistently hit on this forum, but just being able to aim for it is a tremendous inspiration.
Dave V.
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Lost for words re the IP - that is the pinnacle of modeling excellence, just beautiful.
I'm nervous about the clear covers on the wings on my model, so eager to see your finished product. What adhesive did you use? I used to use a special Bob Smith cyano for my car models which didn't fog the clear parts but I've run out. Not sure if white glue will do the job.
Sandy
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Really great work! Impressed with the scratch building :)
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Sandy, if you dip the clear parts in Future floor wax regular super glue won't fog it. Amazing progress on this one Kensar.
Steve
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That is simply exquisite work. I'm taking notes while shaking my head in admiration! There are so many little details and effects that really make this pop for me.
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Well, I'm satisfied with the landing gear area, so moving back to the interior.
(https://i.postimg.cc/bv2rYwrb/Roden-Sopwith-Strutter-43.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/dVfDKysw/Roden-Sopwith-Strutter-44.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/BnbtygGm/Roden-Sopwith-Strutter-45.jpg)
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That is stunning work Ken! Not surprising from you 8)
RAGIII
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Time once again for an update.
I've been back in the interior. It's now completed and I'm working on the upper decking. Soon, the tail will need to be installed.
The seat cushion is off center to the supports and I didn't know which way to mount it. I also see some trash in there.
(https://i.postimg.cc/C1cMLxts/Roden-Sopwith-Strutter-46.jpg)
The photos show the kit's control stick is not made from round tubes. I guess that will slip by this time.
Also included my rendition of a Sutton harness, but wasn't sure if this is correct, however I do have a period photo of a Strutter with one in it.
(https://i.postimg.cc/FsdFNmx0/Roden-Sopwith-Strutter-47.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/gcBcCr3Y/Roden-Sopwith-Strutter-49.jpg)
Here I have added the cockpit coaming stitching using monofilament, which will be painted next.
(https://i.postimg.cc/rszVdL2X/Roden-Sopwith-Strutter-50.jpg)
I painted the aircraft number '9' in red. Didn't know what color it should be, as black and red show up as black in period pictures. This formerly being a French aircraft, I think these numbers were in red, so I carried that through.
(https://i.postimg.cc/1tm5QqWz/Roden-Sopwith-Strutter-51.jpg)
That's it for now. Until next time...
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Absolutely love the instrument panel, and the stitching around the cockpit leather - wow.
Cheers,
Gary
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The cockpit coaming stitching is a lovely touch and I can never tire of looking at that incredible instrument panel.
Richie
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SO beautiful!!
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Your build continues to impress Ken! Love the stitching!
RAGIII
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More progress on the upper fuselage.
I've painted the coaming around the cockpit and added the brass tank caps.
(https://i.postimg.cc/7L1PvR6y/Roden-Sopwith-Strutter-52.jpg)
Almost finished the observers gun. Need to add the bungee cords and the lever used to adjust the height.
(https://i.postimg.cc/rm8Vq90R/Roden-Sopwith-Strutter-53.jpg)
Rudder and vertical stabilizer painted up. Working on the decal for the rudder right now.
(https://i.postimg.cc/k5PMpC7c/Roden-Sopwith-Strutter-54.jpg)
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Super work Ken, the tail skid in particular is a thing of beauty. Which paints did you use for the rudder? I really like the blue colour, I'm struggling to find a shade I like for my project and this looks pretty spot on to me.
Richie
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Hi Ritchie. I used Testors enamel blue #1110 for the blue and AK Interactive RC006 for the red. They were colors that I had around workbench.
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The wood grain on the upper fuselage is amazing Ken. Makes Me wish mine wasn't painted PC 10! Everything about your build is impressive. I may "Need" to do another soon because of your inspiration!
RAGIII
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Hi Ritchie. I used Testors enamel blue #1110 for the blue and AK Interactive RC006 for the red. They were colors that I had around workbench.
Many thanks Ken.
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Lovely work Ken, you're getting me itchy to start mine!
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Thanks for checking in, guys.
I have attached the upper fuselage and tail surfaces now. Some 'dirt' filtering is needed now.
(https://i.postimg.cc/bNpD7Pg3/Roden-Sopwith-Strutter-55.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/CL7BY26Y/Roden-Sopwith-Strutter-56.jpg)
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Really NICE!
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That's really shaping up.
Steve
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This is a lovely build, Ken! Stunning work and very neat... The detail is beautiful... Regards, Marc.
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It looks really cool!
Andreas
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Lovely work!
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Thanks for the great comments, guys. The mojo is waning a bit as I am recovering from prostate surgery, but there is also a HB FW Ta-152 competing for my attention! Progress will continue on this - I promise.
The lettering on the rudder was produced from an inkjet printed decal using Testor's decal paper. The decal film wrinkled up greatly when applied over Microscale setting solution, but mostly flattened out upon drying. Still, it has more texture than the painted part of the rudder, so some manipulation of the dirt weathering was needed to get a mostly even appearance. This was made easier by making the decal film cover the entire top half of the rudder, putting the edge of the film on top of a rib line mid way down.
Thanks for stopping by.
Ken
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Looking Lovely Ken!
RAGIII
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Beautiful work, Ken, absolutely beautiful. I've said it before, but the problem with being a member of this Forum is that every thread I read makes me want to build a Whatever-It-Is. Just goes to show what an inspirational bunch you folks are!
Dave V.
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oooooh! not bad!
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I've been following this build while lurking and it's amazing work. Looking forward to seeing the end result, well done!
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Super work as ever Ken, I really enjoy following your magnificent builds. Hope you recover quickly from the surgery. It's inevitable that the mojo wanes a little under such circumstances but you'll be back when you're ready.
Best wishes
Richie
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I have glued the cabane struts to the fuselage and have been pondering the rigging. I am trying a new technique here, where I run monofilament through a 0.6mm aluminum tube and flatten it, trapping the mono, and trimming it off on end. Then drilling a 0.011" hole through it and running a monofilament 'bolt' through it, supergluing it into the wing.
Don't know how strong this will be, but it looks more accurate than eyelets. Also, very tedious. We'll see how this works out.
(https://i.postimg.cc/9FYzSDVb/Roden-Sopwith-Strutter-57.jpg)
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That really looks like the real attachments. I hope it works well for you. Did you use the kit Acetate for the clear area over the pulleys? Sorry if I missed something 8)
RAGIII
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The attachments look great - what are you using to drill the .011" holes, and how are you doing it without breaking the bits? .011" is smaller than a #80 - must be very fragile.
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Hi Rick, yes I used the kit acetate for the pulley covers. I cut them out of the excess part of the acetate. I used 5 minute epoxy and taped them around the leading edge of the wing.
The holes were drilled with carbide micro drill bits. I first tried 0.0098", but the holes were a bit small to get the 0.007" lines through them, so I then went to 0.011". For these sizes, I always use my bench top mill, which keeps them straight when drilling and used a high speed. This method keeps them from breaking.
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That rigging approach definitely looks better than eyelets IMO. Looks like a lot of work though.......
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Hi Ken,
That's an interesting approach to rigging.
I'm assume these will be fixed in position on the model parts before assembly.
If so, I imagine it will be tricky getting them angled correctly, so that when the parts are assembled, the end fittings and the line will be aligned.
Mike
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I have a Sherline mill that I use for scratchbuilding model ships. How do you clamp the small tubes when you drill?
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Hi, all.
Mike - yes, aligning the tubes to the correct direction is a challenge of this method. I just make the best estimate I can. I'm anchoring one end of the line as pictured and the other end will be another tube (hopefully at the right angle, also) into which I CA glue the end of the monofilament, holding the line as tight as needed to completely straighten it. If it's a little loose, I can tighten it using a hot soldering iron held close to the line, but of course, this presents risks also. I'm also flattening the end of the monofilament slightly with pliers to provide a non-round shape that should increase the holding strength of the mono and keep it from being pulled out.
davec - I don't hesitate to modify cheap tools to accomplish a task. In this case, I cut a groove using a Dremel cutting wheel, into one side of a pair of tweezers to be able to hold a round object.
(https://i.postimg.cc/cHsn1RJC/Roden-Sopwith-Strutter-58.jpg)
The end of the tube was flattened, which prevents the drill from wandering when drilling. I hold the tweezers as still as possible, resting on the wooden block under the drill and then lightly run the drill down into the tube.
(https://i.postimg.cc/hG8mqycN/Roden-Sopwith-Strutter-59.jpg)
Hope this explains how I'm doing this.
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Hi Ken,
Necessity is the mother of invention ;)
Mike
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Very impressive! The rigging approach is really interesting, but look absolutely great!
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Great work, and great idea for the rigging stations - I am looking forward to your verdict on the strength.
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Quick update.
I got all the rigging tubes mounted into the upper wing. Pull tests are indicating they will be strong enough.
(https://i.postimg.cc/FKDWtgZ9/Roden-Sopwith-Strutter-61.jpg)
Now for the significant step of getting the upper wing on. The front struts are just placed in position for alignment while the glue on the cabane struts is setting.
(https://i.postimg.cc/Jn0TRD6j/Roden-Sopwith-Strutter-60.jpg)
Next, the struts will be added, followed by the rigging.
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That is a significant step forward! Any issues that you can see with the strut attachments?
RAGIII
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Fascinating stuff, I'm really enjoying seeing these techniques come together.
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Lovely work, an inspiration to all of us with Strutters in the stash.
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Any issues that you can see with the strut attachments?
I'll be evaluating that next. I did pin the cabane struts to the top edge of the fuselage, as there is no solid mounting points there. The holes in the lower wing are much bigger than the pins on the struts, so while that gives some wiggle room, it does not make for a solid attachment point. The pins in the struts are longer than needed, as well, but that's easily fixed.
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Those rigging attachment points are incredible ! Really impressive work.
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I now have the wing struts glued in. The top wing with the cabanes separated from the fuse during handling and I re-glued using 5 min epoxy. Then I was able to add the wing struts with no issues. I used epoxy for these too, to fill in the huge holes that the struts fit into.
(https://i.postimg.cc/Wb4SNRh0/Roden-Sopwith-Strutter-62.jpg)
Rigging next.
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Looks Great Ken! It seems Roden has gone from one extreme to another. That being said I would rather have too much room in the locating holes, and too much length on the pins.
RAGIII
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Lovely work, an inspiration to all of us with Strutters in the stash.
Exactly my thoughts - all the builds running here will be invaluable reference material when I start mine.
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I last visited your build log in June. What a tremendous progress you have made Kensar! Your attention to detail is great and I like all the scratch parts you added.
I can see your lathe is a priceless tool, but it’s takes a craftsman to use it to its full potential. And that is what you are.
Great subtle weathering too.
Cheers,
Willem
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Beautiful work Ken, your method for making rigging attachment points looks so much better than wire loops. I can see that being copied a lot in the future, I for one have taken notes!
Richie
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Well, I'm finally working through the rigging. I had ordered some fresh CA to finish the job, so there was a wait.
Most of the tubes were glues in at the right angle. Only a couple are off slightly. I was able to glue the wires in with enough tension to keep them straight.
(https://i.postimg.cc/s20Qqt2P/Roden-Sopwith-Strutter-63.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/Dzz4C27y/Roden-Sopwith-Strutter-64.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/85JJStF2/Roden-Sopwith-Strutter-65.jpg)
Finishing the rigging and the control cables is next, then final assembly and touch ups.
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Lovely work , this is going to look fantastic when finished.
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Wow! You have set a new standard for rigging. Well done.
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Thanks for the comments, everyone. More rigging pictures. The rigging is done now. Final assembly of the engine, cowling, and rear machine gun is next while I wait for the oil paint on the prop to dry.
(https://i.postimg.cc/Y9FWp942/Roden-Sopwith-Strutter-66.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/x8Sbq2Hv/Roden-Sopwith-Strutter-67.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/5tTzdv2k/Roden-Sopwith-Strutter-68.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/43mcSws9/Roden-Sopwith-Strutter-69.jpg)
Thanks for looking.
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I like it very much.
Spyros
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Very much looking forward to the final result!
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I like it too. Setting a great standard for those keen to build this kit.
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Stunning details made with absolute perfection Ken!
Cheers,
Willem
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Thank you, all for the encouraging comments and thanks for following along.
I have completed this build and will be posting pictures in the next day or two.