forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com
WW1 Aircraft Modeling => Under Construction => Topic started by: kensar on January 17, 2022, 02:11:41 AM
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I've been wanting to do a plane that has a lot of wood grain, so an Albie was a natural choice. I couldn't decide what livery to do, so I have decided to depict one that just came from the factory, without unit markings.
The Roden Albatros D.III is my victim here.
(https://i.postimg.cc/SKH4nwV3/Roden-Albatros-DIII-01.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
I have collected a few aftermarket items over the recent years - HGW seatbelts, wood grain decals, and nail lines, Tom's Modelworks P/E, and Lukasz from Taurus Models was kind enough to include some rocker arms and valve springs as freebies in a previous order that included an ignition switch. The arms and springs are for a BMW engine, but they certainly look better than the Roden moldings. So, my model may not be 100% accurate, but it will look better than OOB.
I started on the engine.
Here, I have drilled holes for the valve springs.
(https://i.postimg.cc/bJ17sdZS/Roden-Albatros-DIII-02.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
And installation.
(https://i.postimg.cc/tRN0bZ0L/Roden-Albatros-DIII-03.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
I also revised the cooling water piping to the cylinders. The kit engine looks like its a Merc IIIa, where this plane has the III. I didn't take any pictures of this modification specifically, but its visible in the last picture. I still have some plumbing to do to connect it up. The water pipe from the radiator looks to be going to the wrong place as well. It should go to the water pump intake, not into the crankcase.
Next, I tackled the rocker arms. I cut off the molded ones and decided to do this the easy way. I found a saw that cut a kerf at just the right width for the rocker arms to mount into.
(https://i.postimg.cc/7YKpCFZ9/Roden-Albatros-DIII-04.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
I CA'ed the arms in place. I plan to cover the tops of the valve covers with painted aluminum tape to hide the slots.
I decided to try to include the slotted nuts that hold the intake manifold to the cylinders. I first took some soft wire and bent it around a drill bit of the appropriate size to make the rings. This worked well, but the rings did not have the slots in them, used to tighten the rings up. I was on the right track, but needed to go further.
(https://i.postimg.cc/hthNV2JB/Roden-Albatros-DIII-05.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
This took some thought as to how to make them. I noticed that some pliers have parallel slotted grips and thought I could use this as a stamp to imprint some soft wire with notches. I cut some soft wire into short lengths, placed the opened pliers on top of the wire, and struck it with a hammer. If the pliers were not positioned correctly, one end of the wire was too flattened and the other end not imprinted enough. After a few attempts and some practice, I could get some useable pieces of wire. If I hit the pliers with a hammer with too much force, it flattened the wire too much.
(https://i.postimg.cc/8Pp2zpNs/Roden-Albatros-DIII-06.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
This worked out close enough.
(https://i.postimg.cc/zv59W5ht/Roden-Albatros-DIII-08.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
I then made the ignition wires. The spark plugs needed some help, so I cut off the molded ones and glued in some simulated bolts, turned around so the long end was out. With a little painting, this also worked okay.
(https://i.postimg.cc/cLj2hfY8/Roden-Albatros-DIII-10.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/nLD5PMYS/Roden-Albatros-DIII-11.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
So this is where I am at the moment. Still working on the magnetos. What I have done may not be 100% accurate, but its an upgrade from the kit parts.
Thanks for looking.
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Don't stop.... Don't stop... Please
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That is a huge improvement on the kit parts. Minor details will pass unnoticed by most observers so 100% accuracy will not matter.
Stephen.
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What I have done may not be 100% accurate, but its an upgrade from the kit parts.
Minor details will pass unnoticed by most observers so 100% accuracy will not matter.
I agree with Stephen - accurate or not, it looks exquisite to me! Beautiful work, and what a serendipitous discovery regarding the pliers - very crafty!
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Wonderful work so far!
WD
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Great detailing, the engine is spectacular! The manifold nuts are sheer genius; I've used the now dated Taurus ones and they are a touchy operation, I am amazed at your "scratched" results. Looking mighty fine thus far.
Cheers,
Lance
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Nice work on the couplings for the exhaust Ken ;)
Alexis
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What great detailing to the engine!
Looking forward to following this one
Regards
Dave
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What a wonderful start of a new project, with all that nice details!
I'm following.
Cheers,
Frank
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Thank you, friends, for the nice comments. I hope to keep you entertained with further updates.
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Gorgeous details Ken. Once again you are showing us just how good the Roden Alabatros DIII can look.
RAGIII
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Ken - the work on the engine is absolutely brilliant. That tip for making the knurled rings with the pliers is great, by the way.
Cheers,
Gary
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Looks at watch , is it still coffee break Ken ? ;D
Alexis
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;D I've been slacking - somewhat.
I have been slowly working on the fuselage and innerds. I did basic painting and then tried your technique of adding woodgrain with colored pencils, which looks okay. Guess you'll want pictures, huh?
I'm still researching the interior details, but there's not a lot to add to the kit that will be visible.
There are quite a few parts in my kit that are badly warped, so I'm having to deal with that too.
I'll get some pictures up soon.
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Looking forward to some progress you "Slacker" ;D
RAGIII
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Ken,
That engine sure looks nice. I would love to be able to do that in 1/72.
Stuart
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Rick - PM sent.
Stuart - It would look nice if it was 1/72! What I haven't shown is the botched spark plug leads coming from the magnetos. At least they won't show, right?
Reminds me of this scene. Bear with me.
https://youtu.be/k4AgXbyRqiU?t=500
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I did basic painting and then tried your technique of adding woodgrain with colored pencils, which looks okay.
My wife just so happens to be into colouring and has quite the selection of pencils...the gears are turning...
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Okay, latest pictures.
I added the aluminum tape valve train covers and detailed with p/e fasteners. Did a little weathering to simulate shop floor dust. This was before I attempted the spark plug leads from the magnetos.
(https://i.postimg.cc/J7f7b1HK/Roden-Albatros-DIII-12.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/s1dL1HX9/Roden-Albatros-DIII-13.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/c1g4gKCr/Roden-Albatros-DIII-14.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Here, I've painted the basic interior colors, a yellow for the fuse sides and brown/biege for the bulkheads and longerons. I used modern Albies as a guide for the colors of the new wood. The fuse sides is a yellow wood and the bulkheads look like pine, which was more brown. The wood grain in the inside of the fuselage is very difficult to see in photos of modern D.IIIs. I used a colored pencil and sketched in some woodgrain and then dusted some light yellow pastel chalk onto it. I did this for all the inside wooden parts.
(https://i.postimg.cc/wxkT1kD5/Roden-Albatros-DIII-15.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/qqpJmtHC/Roden-Albatros-DIII-16.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/5ypxDxfK/Roden-Albatros-DIII-17.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
I haven't painted the gray/green metal parts yet.
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Very fine work. Engine is a marvel. And what a difference it makes to work on Roden instead of WNW.
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Beautiful wood work Ken! Apparently you are No Longer "Slacking" as you said in your earlier post ;D You are correct in that the leads from the Magnetos to the tubes will not be seen once all is closed up!
RAGIII
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Wow! this is coming along beautifully.
WD
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That engine is just...wow! It could be a set of 1/1 workshop photos. Beautiful work Ken! The woodgrain looks wonderful as well. Thanks for the update!
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Thank you, everyone. Your comments are most appreciated and motivating.
Another update coming your way now, mostly in-progress shots.
Here is the fuel switching panel. I didn't have the correct size faces for the valves, so I just painted them black and scratched some markings - true Roden style. In closeups, its obvious they are not writing, but from normal viewing distance, one cannot see that.
(https://i.postimg.cc/z3qsDZDb/Roden-Albatros-DIII-18.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/z3qsDZDb)
Some in-progress pics of the pilot's office. With Rick's help, I discovered the Roden D.III cockpit is not correct at all. There are difficulties to making it correct, as the flooring between the wings is just not deep enough. The rudder bar is too high and too close to the seat. The stick is not configured correctly at the bottom, etc. My intention with this model is to gain some experience with woodgrain decaling on the exterior, so I will forego these details and just keep going. I usually have a particular objective in mind for each model build, to gain experience with some technique or try a new process.
(https://i.postimg.cc/BX6RDTKJ/Roden-Albatros-DIII-19.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/BX6RDTKJ)
(https://i.postimg.cc/CzQX4RGk/Roden-Albatros-DIII-20.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/CzQX4RGk)
(https://i.postimg.cc/Z0j1C70f/Roden-Albatros-DIII-23.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Z0j1C70f)
Getting a few sub-assemblies in place. Test fitting showed the engine cover had to be cut into two pieces to get around the too long spark plugs and the lower wing to fuselage joint is going to require some work. I hate to undo work previously done, but nothing is going to slow this build down.
(https://i.postimg.cc/SX0PwHtK/Roden-Albatros-DIII-22.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/SX0PwHtK)
Don't know why the pictures are so small. I'll have to investigate. If you click on them, they are enlarged, but surrounded by ads.
Until next time - keep on building.
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Moving along nicely and looking terrific. I had that advertisement thing happen on Post Image once. IIRC I signed out, changed My Password and it went away. Keep up the great work on the Albatros!
RAGIII
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That woodgrain is sublime, beautiful work Ken!
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Beautiful variations within the wood tones Ken :)
Alexis
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Thanks for the kind comments. Alexis - your colored pencil wood grain technique works well.
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A few more pictures. I've closed up the fuselage and preparing to put the lower wing on.
Also test fitting some Gaspatch Spandaus.
Taurus ignition switch and starting magneto.
(https://i.postimg.cc/LXXG3SYB/Roden-Albatros-DIII-24.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Some random shots in various stages of completion.
(https://i.postimg.cc/Dfty0jHY/Roden-Albatros-DIII-26.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/QCKPvqqF/Roden-Albatros-DIII-28.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/9MnKxky3/Roden-Albatros-DIII-29.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Crikey!
What amazing work on your engine and interior - looks stunning
Regards
Dave
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Awesome work Ken. The Taurus Magneto and switch loo Fantastic. I Hopethe site is up and running before I do another DIII 8)
RAGIII
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Fabulous 👌, a work of art!
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Spectacularly realistic interior.
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:o :o
Speechless of New Zealand.
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Glad to hear it work out well for you Ken , as it shows in your results , fab work all around
Alexis
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I seem to have missed some recent posts so I have been having a closer look.... I thought that you had made some of the interior fittings from wood! If you connect the instruments to a battery do they light up? Amazing interior and engine detail.
Stephen.
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Thank you for the positive comments, friends.
I wanted this build to depict a newly made aircraft, so I'm keeping things bright and clean. I have the lower wing on and have painted up the Gaspatch Spandau machine guns. Now to contemplate the rigging. Hmmm - more inaccuracies around the wing roots.
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Lovely work. Neat, clean and very realistic. Excellent.
Sandy
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That looks very nice, in your own specific style! Really great.
Cheers,
Frank
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I only just stumbled over this thread. What a great build, especially the engine.
I think the way you made the manifold nuts is genius Ken!
Willem
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Very slow progress on this at this time.
Got some color on the wings and tail.
(https://i.postimg.cc/QCzhsXrJ/Roden-Albatros-DIII-30.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Nice work on getting the colours laid for the camo :)
Alexis
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Wow! That green is very . . . . GREEN! :) Very intense color there sir.
Looking great.
WD
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Very slow progress on this at this time.
Any progress is good progress :)
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Very slow progress on this at this time.
Any progress is good progress :)
Zac seems to be very fawn of this sentence ;)
Alexis
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The paint work looks good. Although a pattern I am not familiar with on a DIII ,I am sure you have done your research!
RAGIII
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Thanks for the comments. I'm not sure I'll keep the green as it is. I think it should be darker. This scheme is my interpretation of the green/red brown called out in the windsock data file on Albatros fighters, pages 49 and 21, and I used the pattern from the Roden instructions. I would say the scheme is speculative.
In the meantime, I've spent a couple of days working on this:
(https://i.postimg.cc/63sYhX01/Roden-Albatros-DIII-32.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/hj9My5Z4/Roden-Albatros-DIII-33.jpg)
I have wanted to tackle the wire wheels for some time now, and this seemed like a good build to use them. I machined the rims and hubs and used 0.004 monofilament for the spokes. I need to paint the tires a dark gray color.
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The wheels are superb Ken!
RAGIII
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Very slow progress on this at this time.
Any progress is good progress :)
Zac seems to be very fawn of this sentence ;)
8)
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Gee Ken , I will admit , very much on the jel side of those wheels !
Alexis
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Superb wheels Ken, please reassure me you are not going to hide them behind wheel covers!!!
Sandy
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Thanks for the comments Rick, Zac, Alexis, and Sandy. I have repainted the green areas to a darker green and will have to respray the brown in spots due to the masking lifting off some paint.
And I will not be hiding these wheels behind wheel covers! :) Being a factory fresh bird, the wheel covers have not been installed.
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Beautiful wheels Ken, they look stunning!
I wish I had room for a lathe..
and the money to buy one...
and the skills to use it...
and the time to work on it...
Willem
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Those wheels are stunning… ::)
I am really impressed.
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Fantastic work on the spoked wheels. Sometimes I wish I had the tools to machine the metal bits for my models instead of relying on ready-to-use products or PE parts...
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Thanks for stopping by, Willem, Michael, and Przemol. I appreciate your comments. Work on this has been going slow due to lack of bench time.
I must say that getting a lathe and mill opened up a whole new realm of possibilities for my modeling and renewed my interest in the hobby years ago.
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Wow! 'Dose wheels! What Rookie/Willem said!
WD
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Another update with random pictures. Lots of painting going on.
I'm painting the national markings on the wings as they are rather large and I don't have to clear coat to a smooth finish first.
(https://i.postimg.cc/TPfKSgMx/Roden-Albatros-DIII-34.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
The white balance or the exposure is off here, as the colors are definitely darker than how it looks here. The white border for the crosses are painted first. The radiator is aluminum, not white.
(https://i.postimg.cc/265VjYSX/Roden-Albatros-DIII-35.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Nice Gaspatch guns.
(https://i.postimg.cc/nhvs0TWT/Roden-Albatros-DIII-36.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/Dz6SK0nX/Roden-Albatros-DIII-37.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Thanks for stopping by.
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The green does look better now Ken. As always your work is awesome. Lovely MG and the painted markings will look terrific. Just a question here, did you choose to cut the cowling covers in that location to improve the fit?
RAGIII
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Thanks, Rick. I cut the cowling panels to get it around the engine. My spark plugs are too long and they interfere when trying to put the cowling on from above. The small forward part will slide on from the front. Did you have any issues mounting the machine guns? There is a tight fit around the breeches when the cowling panels are in place.
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Thanks, Rick. I cut the cowling panels to get it around the engine. My spark plugs are too long and they interfere when trying to put the cowling on from above. The small forward part will slide on from the front. Did you have any issues mounting the machine guns? There is a tight fit around the breeches when the cowling panels are in place.
RAGIII
PS:
OK, I don't know what I did to lose My lengthy answer but here it is again. Of the 5 Roden Albatri I have built/worked on I had no issues I remember. Tight yes, but mounted after the cowling was attached no real problem. I used the Kit Provided parts with PE jackets so can't comment on if the Gaspatch Guns make a difference. I did end up with the Spandaus at an Odd Angle on the Jasta 6 DIII. This was due to the ammo container part breaking loose after the fuselage was joined. My repair must have left the butt ends too low so that a slight upwards angle resulted.
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Really nice paint work ken
Alexis
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Incredible work, Ken. When I first looked at your spoked wheels, I thought that they were examples made by Steve Robson. You've done an amazing job on those and all other aspects of your build.
Cheers,
Gary
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Thanks for relating your experience, Rick. I think the Gaspatch guns are wider at the breech. I have mounted the left gun before putting the cowling on. The right gun will go on after.
Thanks for the paint gush, Alexis. Did I say that right? Not always sure about the latest slang.
Hi Gary. I thought if Steve R can do it, I can do it. ;D I studied pictures of his wheels and I'm still not sure exactly how his spokes are configured around the hub. Eventually, I just forged ahead with my own ideas. I may make another set of wheels to adjust the dish some and add a valve stem.
I'm doing some detail work on the cowling piece. I thought it looked too plain. Pictures soon.
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I'm doing some detail work on the cowling piece. I thought it looked too plain. Pictures soon.
I'm keen to see it! Waiting patiently. ;)
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Great progress Ken.
Same as Zac, I also am looking forward to what magic you are going to perform on the cowling.
Willem
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A few more random pictures.
Another look at the interior.
(https://i.postimg.cc/KjHctLqy/Roden-Albatros-DIII-45.jpg)
And the painted crosses. I used the pattern from the Meng triplane, which are narrower and I think more sinister looking.
(https://i.postimg.cc/50p2ND8y/Roden-Albatros-DIII-42.jpg)
I thought the coaming looked too plain, so I added the lacing that holds it in place. I first drilled 0.013" holes and then laced it up with 0.005" monofilament.
(https://i.postimg.cc/KzmYbmkC/Roden-Albatros-DIII-41.jpg)
Taped up for paint.
(https://i.postimg.cc/1RCzxh9Y/Roden-Albatros-DIII-38.jpg)
It's still very subtle.
(https://i.postimg.cc/sgZx96CH/Roden-Albatros-DIII-39.jpg)
I added 1/4 turn fasteners on the shell chute. I'll add more fasteners to the cowling after its mounted in place.
(https://i.postimg.cc/mrfDdYbL/Roden-Albatros-DIII-40.jpg)
That's it for now. Thanks for looking.
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Amazing work on the padding and fasteners Ken! The crosses also look terrific.
RAGIII
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Nice attention to the details Ken ;)
Alexis
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Spectacular. I could watch that engine and cockpit coaming for hours.
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Spectacular. I could watch that engine and cockpit coaming for hours.
I'm with Prze - The lacing is just superb!
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Beautiful work.
WD
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Thanks, everyone. Your comments are most welcome.
I'm now tackling the job that is the impetus for this build - decaling the wood grain on the fuselage. It's a tedious job and I had some doubts at the beginning, but so far, it's gone okay - at least the easy panels have. I'm using HGW decals and find they are very fragile. I plan to put a coat of Future over what I have done so far, to protect them from scratches while handling the model. I think it does look good, though. Very comparable to what modern reproductions with new wood looks like. Based on Kolon Mayerhofer's D.III, I think the real Albatros have fewer separate panels than this kit does. (The kit has panel lines where the real ones just have lines of nails.)
(https://i.postimg.cc/t4g1W7Mz/Roden-Albatros-DIII-47.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Looking great Ken! This will be another Stunner in your case.
RAGIII
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Awesome work, Ken. That cockpit coaming is spectacular.
Cheers,
Gary
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The fuse looks stunning, Ken!
Based on Kolon Mayerhofer's D.III, I think the real Albatros have fewer separate panels than this kit does. (The kit has panel lines where the real ones just have lines of nails.)
I would trust the work of Koloman and the CraftLab team as a reference. Their machines are stunning and, I believe, researched to within an inch of their life before they commit saw to wood.
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Awesome work, Ken. That cockpit coaming is spectacular.
Cheers,
Gary
I echo Gary's comments Ken, absolutely stellar work. The detailing you've done is all "top drawer" and that cockpit coaming is the best I've seen. My compliments, it's a pleasure to view this one.
Cheers,
Lance
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I love to see an Albatros coming together. Those fasteners around the cockpit knock my socks off!
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What a great work! Your build are getting better and better!
And your spoked wheels are on another level :o
Cheers,
Frank
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Thank you for the kind comments, everyone. I'm enjoying this build's slow pace. I have run out of wood grain decals and could not find exact replacements, so I ordered a set that has a different wood grain pattern. Hopefully the overall color will be very similar. In the meantime, I'm working on another set of wheels, to adjust the dish and add a valve stem.
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I now have most, if not all the base decaling done, and I'm not very motivated to to another wood grain decaled fuselage right now. Lots of touch up painting to be done and then the nailing starts! The two sets of wood decals are clearly different, but the overall look is not too bad.
(https://i.postimg.cc/xTwvypd6/Roden-Albatros-DIII-50.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/TPGnBygm/Roden-Albatros-DIII-51.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/8zLhydJN/Roden-Albatros-DIII-52.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
I have also made another set of wheels, painted, and have installed the tires.
(https://i.postimg.cc/FKZ0v9V6/Roden-Albatros-DIII-49.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
They aren't perfect, but an improvement over the first set. The dish is more even and they have valve stems.
Nails are next. Where's that hammer?
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I like the wood grain decals in the lighter tone. And those wheels look... real. Great work!
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I like the wood grain decals in the lighter tone.
Me too - the reality achieved is amazing!
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The new wheels are flashing me away!
How can I replicate that in 1/48 ? ???
Cheers,
Frank
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Thanks for encouraging comments Gaz, Zac, and Frank.
Making wheels in 1/48 would be quite a challenge. Machining the hubs and rims would not be so bad, but drilling the holes in the rims and threading a filament through them would be very difficult.
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Wow!
Some really great work going on here - looking great so far.
Interesting what say say regarding wood grain decals .......
Regards
Dave
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Wheels are spectacular.
As for the wood, some differences of the pattern and hue are very acceptable. Wood is not a uniform material ;)
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Ken, I continue to be amazed at your work. The wheels & wood grain are brilliant.
Cheers,
Gary
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All I can say is that the wood grain looks excellent as does all of the work on getting this kit to this point! The wheels are Way beyond My abilities and are awesome .
RAGIII
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I have spent the last couple of weeks putting on the nail head decals. These are not very easy to use due to the nail heads coming off the carrier film. They are also printed under the carrier film instead of on the top. Go figure.
(https://i.postimg.cc/fbJ5znvs/Roden-Albatros-DIII-53.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/jjmcCg87/Roden-Albatros-DIII-54.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/MTBDB74r/Roden-Albatros-DIII-55.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
They make an interesting visual detail, but they are not the correct color. Should be gold, bronze, or steel colored.
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I did not know such a thing existed, Nail Head Decals. I am loving this thread so far, although it is all good the stand out feature is the wood effect. You have now just made that better by adding the nail head detail. Way to go Kensar.
Alan.
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Ken, those nail heads look really nice. I definitely need to acquire some for my Albatros D.V build. And seriously, a blind man on a galloping horse would not notice the colour of them...it's the effect that works well.
Cheers,
Gary
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ah, but what about the horse? Eh? :P
Superb build and nail heads!
I have just purchased this kit for my first Roden build, so this thread will definitely will be valuable to me.
Peter
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The nails look fantastic Ken! Something I will need to try someday. Very inspiring build. I see another Albatros in My future now 8)
RAGIII
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Those nail heads really make it pop! Wow!
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Yea , thumbs up Ken . In hope now thumbs got harmed ;)
Alexis
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Thank you, everyone for the positive comments. No thumbs were harmed but there were burning ears from the experience! ;)
I'm sealing in the nail head decals now with a couple coats of Future. A few more comments about them. They are an HGW product printed on (under) a continuous sheet of decal film, so the strips have to be cut individually. They are covered with another sheet of paper material. The instructions would have you cut and apply like any other decals and then after 6 - 8 hours of drying, remove the top paper layer. I found this top layer completely useless. When you cut strips of the nail heads, the top layer just separates and falls away. I used both scissors and a sharp hobby knife to cut the strips. It also hinders placement of the nail heads because it is difficult to see through it.
As I mentioned earlier, the nail heads are printed on the bottom of the decal film, not on the top. If you don't wait long enough after wetting the decal and before applying them, the nail heads just come off the decal film when you move the decal off the backing paper, so you have missing or out of place nail heads. This was the most frustrating part of using this product.
The nail heads make a visually interesting detail, but they should be a different color, other than all black. On close examination of Kolon Mayerhofer's Albatros D.III, it looks like the nail pattern is a brass screw followed by 2 steel nails, then another brass screw, and two steel nails, and so on. One positive thing is that the heads are a round shape and consistent in size and spacing, and the decal film is very thin. I used decal softening fluid only in the most curved areas.
If anyone else uses this product, it would be interesting to know what their experience is. I'm not sure why they didn't just produce this product like any other decal - printed on top of the film with a fixing layer on top.
So, that's my experience. I hope this information is of help to others. I am not recommending to not use this product, just that it has some unusual aspects to it.
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As I mentioned earlier, the nail heads are printed on the bottom of the decal film, not on the top. [...] I am not recommending to not use this product, just that it has some unusual aspects to it.
It sounds a bit like the new Eduard decals, albeit without the option to retain the film. I can only guess this approach is to avoid silvering and have only the individual heads for a more accurate rendition, but it does sound like the instructions could be clearer! I wonder if the top layer of paper is actually a protective cover as seen on most kits, and the instructions' "top layer" is the film itself?
On close examination of Koloman Mayrhofer's Albatros D.III, it looks like the nail pattern is a brass screw followed by 2 steel nails, then another brass screw, and two steel nails, and so on.
Spelling corrected ;) I know some folk are wary of using modern reproductions as modelling references but I believe with Koloman (and TVAL) we can trust what he and his team come up with. Are the heads too small to repaint to suggest a brass screw? And I mean just painting them brass, not etching a screw head pattern!!
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Hi, Zac.
I may have misunderstood the instructions, but they seemed very clear.
It would be impractical to paint the nail heads. There are so many of them and they are very small.
I think next time I would try using a riveting tool on the plastic before painting, and then using a wash technique to color them. It would require some testing before doing it.
Apologies to Koloman for massacring his name.
Update: I found a forum post on another forum from 2013. Apparently, the clear decal film is supposed to be removed from the surface after drying, leaving only the nail heads!
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Wow Ken, the nail lines looks great!
They are also printed under the carrier film instead of on the top.
Apparently, the clear decal film is supposed to be removed from the surface after drying, leaving only the nail heads!
That was also my guess, as the HGW surface decals.
And I have it done on my Camel, the latest Eduard (normal) decals has the carrier also on top, so it can be removed but don't need to.
Not sure about the newest surface structure decal line by Eduard, which are printed with a 3D printer on decal sheet (a bit the the SPACE instrument panel series). I touched those on the Euro Model Expo and the details are fantastic. The new product line is called "Eddie the riveter".
Cheers,
Frank
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It would be impractical to paint the nail heads. There are so many of them and they are very small.
I didn't even think about the size and number! That's a very valid point - I wonder if they'd consider doing Albi-specific versions of their decals?
Apparently, the clear decal film is supposed to be removed from the surface after drying, leaving only the nail heads!
Aha! That's what I thought too. An interesting approach to me - and a little more scary than doing the same for a roundel due to the size of the decals.
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Hey Ken ,
I haven't tried these decals yet but have used other products form them and I will say that using their product has a learning curve but once you get the hang of it the results are super . I think I would have done the nail heads using a riveting tool and wash to highly light them .
Alexis
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Just a small update before I go on a vacation for a couple of weeks.
I've put on the last of the decals, added the rudder, and the second machine gun.
I didn't want to risk masking and then pulling up the decaling on the fuse to paint the crosses on, so I used the decal crosses from my Meng Tripe kit.
(https://i.postimg.cc/LXLNWk8d/Roden-Albatros-DIII-56.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Nice Gaspatch MGs.
(https://i.postimg.cc/KjbJhK11/Roden-Albatros-DIII-57.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
The Meng decals were quite stiff and brittle and didn't soften much when Microsol was applied.
(https://i.postimg.cc/PqBSKVhz/Roden-Albatros-DIII-58.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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What a beautiful Albatros :-* You are an artist!
Cheers,
Frank
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I really like the look of this one, Ken. Probably a safe call to use the decals for the crosses.
Safe travels on your vacation!
Cheers,
Gary
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Looking great Ken! You could always use a bit of Tamiya Extra Thin Cement on those stubborn Decal ::)
RAGIII
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Thank you, Frank. But an Engineer first, Artist second.
Gary, as they say, discretion is the better part of valor. More true nearing the end of a build.
Rick, that's Monty Python mosquito hunting crazy! ;D
Thanks for commenting, guys.
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Looks great! I'm glad you didn't mask over the decals. Bad Ju Ju, that.
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I don't know how you do it, but you're doing it again....
Willem
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Fantastic results so far Ken , enjoy your holiday and keep safe !
Alexis
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Doing some fiddly detail work that seems to take forever.
Control cables to the elevator.
(https://i.postimg.cc/QxB3CkSv/Roden-Albatros-DIII-60.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/8cYgwjky/Roden-Albatros-DIII-61.jpg)
Replaced some bolts and fasteners on the cowling that were taken off earlier, along with a test fit of the exhaust pipe.
(https://i.postimg.cc/htTRbDkr/Roden-Albatros-DIII-62.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/YqJwWGs0/Roden-Albatros-DIII-63.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/9Xg2cNPG/Roden-Albatros-DIII-59.jpg)
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Awesome fiddly work Ken! By the way, I think you helped inspire and distract Me at the same time 8)
RAGIII
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Absolutely stunning!!
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Beautiful work.
WD
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That sure looks great, Ken. Really like how the tones of wood have come out on the fuselage. And those nail heads really set this thing apart. Your details on the control cable ends are exceptional.
Cheers,
Gary
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Thanks for stopping by and commenting, Rick, Zac, WD, and Gary.
I still have some touching up and washes to do around the details, but it's getting done slowly due to limited bench time.
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Great results. Those wood panels with all the detail are truly eye catching.
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Not sure how I missed this but catching up now!!! Very impressive work!!!
Steve
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I've been following (and admiring) your progress on this Build Ken, and will borrow a word from Gary's comments above, "exceptional"!! The details, finish, and the overall quality of your model are all very impressive, wonderful work start to finish and a real pleasure to follow along!
Cheers,
Lance
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Ken that will be a beautiful Albie once finished!
I can't remember ever seeing such a factory-new plane as a model.
Cheers,
Frank
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Thanks for the comments, gents.
A small update - not much bench time recently, but a significant milestone!
It's a two-winger.
(https://i.postimg.cc/8CWnFBMN/Roden-Albatros-DIII-64.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/nhXWxtLs/Roden-Albatros-DIII-65.jpg)
Also replaced some detail on the underside.
(https://i.postimg.cc/xC2pLJ3H/Roden-Albatros-DIII-66.jpg)
I rebuilt the tail skid mounting for a more realistic attachment. Oil paint based woodgrain was applied to the skid, so it's curing now.
(https://i.postimg.cc/fR1rTg38/Roden-Albatros-DIII-68.jpg)
Thanks for looking in on this slow build. After the wing is rigged, the landing gear will be next.
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A slow build maybe, but your attention to detail is inspiring. All the small touches are really bringing this alive. Great wood work too.
Sandy
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What Sandy said: slow but steady and superb! She's looking fantastic, Ken.
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Slow? This is slow? Either way the workmanship, engineering and artistry are amazing!!!
Steve
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Stunning!
WD
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A pleasure to watch Ken
Alexis
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Hi,
In my dreams, I'll do exactly the same models... ;)
What an accurate and amazing work. I like it !!!
Keep on amazing our eyes.
Best regards.
Alain.
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Your Albie is really something else - great work so far
Regards
Dave
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Odd looking bird, interesting colour scheme and fastastic result. This is already a beauty!
Willem
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Thank you for taking the time to comment, everyone. I will have some more pictures later today. I am quickly approaching completion with a few remaining details to do. I have installed the landing gear with the wheels. The tail skid will be next. The prop is the next major part to finish. I'm thinking of making a paper one.
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The prop is the next major part to finish. I'm thinking of making a paper one.
Oh, do please post your progress on that. I remember someone making paper props years ago, but I've long ago lost the references to it and would love to see the process again.
WD
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The prop is the next major part to finish. I'm thinking of making a paper one.
Oh, do please post your progress on that. I remember someone making paper props years ago, but I've long ago lost the references to it and would love to see the process again.
.... and than add it to this sticky?
https://forum.ww1aircraftmodels.com/index.php?topic=8688.0#msg159481
Willem
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You can also check the Hints and Tips forum.
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Approaching the finish in spectacular fashion Ken, this is a beautifully done model and then more! Looking forward to seeing the final photos, great work!
Cheers,
Lance
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Amazing work, Ken. As others have stated - very inspiring.
Cheers,
Gary
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Outstanding Build Ken. I am looking forward to seeing the finished product!
RAGIII
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A pleasure to watch Ken
I have to agree with Alexis 110%!
Cheers,
Frank
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This is truly inspirational work. Seeing the detail you can achieve is amazing. I don't know if many of us can do this qualityof work but knowing it's possible gives me something to strive for.
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Wow! Thanks for all the wonderful comments.
Now for the promised pictures.
Tailskid installed.
(https://i.postimg.cc/kMxLVDjm/Roden-Albatros-DIII-76.jpg)
Landing gear and wheels mounted. Aluminum axle tied in with thread.
(https://i.postimg.cc/kG91NFjd/Roden-Albatros-DIII-69.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/28k9VGbQ/Roden-Albatros-DIII-70.jpg)
On its wheels!
(https://i.postimg.cc/Ssc1ztfr/Roden-Albatros-DIII-75.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/qM1bnKy9/Roden-Albatros-DIII-73.jpg)
Completed engine details.
(https://i.postimg.cc/PJ46Spcv/Roden-Albatros-DIII-71.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/66L1Wg36/Roden-Albatros-DIII-72.jpg)
Preview of things to come.
(https://i.postimg.cc/KjrWCsKz/Roden-Albatros-DIII-77.jpg)
It will be a few days before I can get to the prop and final details.
Thanks again, everyone!
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Beautiful, simply beautiful!
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I don't know how I missed this update but I did! In a Word, Brilliant!
RAGIII
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Good grief - simply stunned 8)
Paul
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Brilliant work, Ken. So very impressive, and such incredible detail.
Cheers,
Gary
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So exquiste on so many levels. I do like the variation in tones on the different wood panels.
WD
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Thanks for all the great comments, everyone. It's been a while since I last posted due in part to lack of bench time, but I have made some progress with the prop, which is the subject of this posting.
I have made a prop from paper note book covers and manila folders. I made this one with 7 layers, but I think one I made with 9 layers a few years ago looks better. I have made 5 or 6 props this way over the years. This is only the second one with light and dark wood layers in it and found it's difficult to get the layers perfectly symmetrical.
Anyway, here's a pic of the paper I used. The brown notebook cover has red-brown outer layers and gray looking interior layers, but after saturating with thin CA glue, it looks red-brown. The manila folder is just a common office supply type.
(https://i.postimg.cc/gcnNDHGR/Roden-Albatros-DIII-78.jpg)
Here are the strips cut for the layers of the prop. The kit prop really doesn't look like an Axial prop.
(https://i.postimg.cc/qBSQZ67F/Roden-Albatros-DIII-79.jpg)
The entire prop needs to be 0.172" thick based on the kit prop thickness. I have a drawing of an Axial prop and it shows 7 layers, with dark wood on the outside layers, so each layer needs to be about 0.025" thick. I used calipers to measure the thickness of each paper layer and then stacked up the layers to get close to the required thickness. Then stacked all the layers together and found the total thickness was not enough, so I added another strip of the light paper to each of those layers. This gave me the right overall thickness. I ended up with 3 strips of light paper for each light colored layer and 1 strip of brown paper for each of those layers.
I put the stacked layers in a vice, with plastic around it so the CA glue wouldn't stick everything to the vice jaws. I first used a thin plastic food wrap, but it was hard to handle, so I found a plastic ziploc bag (polyethylene) worked better. I could put the stacked paper strips into the bottom of the ziploc bag and then clamp it loosely in the vice.
(https://i.postimg.cc/Jhp53GgP/Roden-Albatros-DIII-80.jpg)
Then saturated the layers with thin CA glue and closed the vice more firmly for curing. The intention is to thoroughly saturate all the layers of paper so they all stick together completely. I have not been able to get CA glue completely covering everything, so I apply CA later when needed.
(https://i.postimg.cc/vHnXR8gZ/Roden-Albatros-DIII-81.jpg)
I usually leave it in the vice overnight.
(https://i.postimg.cc/yWC8w8MR/Roden-Albatros-DIII-82.jpg)
Next, I taped a drawing to the stack using double sided tape. I reduced the drawing to the correct size in a copier machine. The drawing I have is apparently for a shorter version of the Axial prop for the lower power engines (UR.ii). The Albatros has a more powerful MB engine, so the prop is longer. I didn't have a drawing of the longer prop, so I just went on artistic license.
(https://i.postimg.cc/vZdhGRfL/Roden-Albatros-DIII-83.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
I used a jeweller's saw to cut out the stack closer to the prop outline.
(https://i.postimg.cc/s2jJZpnM/Roden-Albatros-DIII-84.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/rwCJmh96/Roden-Albatros-DIII-85.jpg)
I started sanding next. The CA saturated paper is very hard - harder than wood, so I use a power belt and disc sander for most of the initial shaping.
(https://i.postimg.cc/gcXHRcKH/Roden-Albatros-DIII-86.jpg)
After about 10 minutes, I was getting close to the overall outline needed. Then I worked more carefully and slowly. One mistake with the sander and you'll be starting over.
(https://i.postimg.cc/d1XRXgJC/Roden-Albatros-DIII-87.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/qRgX1pH0/Roden-Albatros-DIII-88.jpg)
Here, one can see the brown outer layer has peeled off, showing the gray interior color. Again, when coated with CA, it turned red-brown color. When sanding, if any spots look fuzzy, I re-coat with CA to keep a hard surface, which is easier to control how much material gets removed by the sander.
(https://i.postimg.cc/x8zGSgd4/Roden-Albatros-DIII-89.jpg)
Now the real fun begins - shaping the airfoil shape. There's no easy and fast way to do this. Just work slowly and shape a little at a time. I use the power sander to take off large amounts of material and use files and sandpaper when I get close to the final shape.
(https://i.postimg.cc/Dy1QjCHW/Roden-Albatros-DIII-90.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/44Db1CLk/Roden-Albatros-DIII-91.jpg)
Here's the finished part. I didn't have to work the center completely because it will be under the spinner. It's not perfect, but it looks okay.
(https://i.postimg.cc/zf2Tb4bQ/Roden-Albatros-DIII-92.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/3xBX7kKY/Roden-Albatros-DIII-93.jpg)
Here's the backside.
(https://i.postimg.cc/JnyZbKjz/Roden-Albatros-DIII-94.jpg)
Time for test fitting.
(https://i.postimg.cc/t4y3L3GB/Roden-Albatros-DIII-95.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/R0Zc0vFf/Roden-Albatros-DIII-96.jpg)
Hope this was informative and interesting. The power sander makes this go much quicker with the hard CA saturated paper material, but it's not very forgiving to work with and you need to watch your fingers!
Thanks for looking in and comments are welcome.
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That paper prop is Gorgeous Ken! Do you have any photos showing the backside?
RAGIII
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Hi Rick,
The third photo from the bottom is the backside.
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Hi Rick,
The third photo from the bottom is the backside.
Thanks for pointing that out! I should have noticed :-[
RAGIII
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The propeller looks first class - it's really made of paper, kensar :o ?
Servus
Bertl
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That's outstanding!! What an ingenious solution to my problem of sourcing the right wood - I've saved this as a reference. Magic!
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Good grief, your Albatros is outstanding ..........
Regards
Dave
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I'm calling this one done after I finish off the prop. Bertl pointed out to me that the panel around the cockpit should be wood, not metal as I depicted it. I feel it's too late to correct that and I would need another kit to make some decal patterns from, so I'm letting that go. Hmmm, maybe a OEFFAG D.III conversion is called for?
I'm thinking about making a base depicting a factory floor, so it will be in the completed section eventually.
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Your usual awesome build Ken! I am looking forward to that completed scene!
RAGIII