strut material

[hiddeous1973]

not wanting to hyjack the Planet rumpler tread, so I started a new one.
I have been looking around for more strut material, my stock of strutz running low.

One option is the Strutter by Albion, will look into that one soon.

but another is this one: K&S streamline tubing http://www.ksmetals.com/32.html
is there anyone who has used this, any comments? mostly I would like to know if the measurement given (1/4 inch) is for the thickness or for the width. Could be usefull for say the WNW Albatros B.II.

But I think it may be too large for the 1/48 kits I have that need replacement struts. Some have resin struts with a wire cast into them, not too happy about that but still better than plain resin struts.

Or does anybody have ideas that I missed?

[RLWP]

I use the 'Strutter' method, but use a smooth faced vice instead of their special tools

Richard

[Softscience]

I was just about to ask the same question.

Looking at the strutter on their page - is it simply flat faced bar clamp pads that you squeeze with a vice?

[hiddeous1973]

that's about it. The idea is you can place a wire inside a tube, so that the tube becomes a strut and the wire can can be used to pin the strut in pre drilled holes.
Not a bad idea offcource, but limited in shapes and quite expensive to me.

[Softscience]

that's about it. The idea is you can place a wire inside a tube, so that the tube becomes a strut and the wire can can be used to pin the strut in pre drilled holes.
Not a bad idea offcource, but limited in shapes and quite expensive to me.

That is certainly is. Do you know a cheaper alternative?

[Berman]

Another method would be to buy (available on Ebay) a 38% oval draw plate (30 holes) with a 1mm to 3mm range. You could either use half hard solid brass wire or place a wire in a tube before drawing. Note you will need to start with larger openings before selecting final size oval. The half hard brass will harden by the drawing process.  It is quite possible that you may need to start with soft brass wire. Bee's wax is necessary for drawing lubrication. Thirty eight percent is the width to length ratio.

[RLWP]

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-jewellers-drawplate-OVAL-30-holes-draw-plate-jewellery-making-crafts/321093616562?hash=item4ac2abc3b2:g:Vz4AAMXQlUNRScG0

I didn't know they existed. I may get one of those

I bet you could pull styrene through the holes and strip off the excess

Richard

[rayb24]

Could you use a vice with vice protectors and the strut method?
I mean the strut tool is reall only the same thing.
Ray

[hiddeous1973]

I think so too. Must me at least a decnt vice, I think the bigger problem will be even pressure across the whole face of the vice.
The very cheap versions might not achieve this, but a decent one with flat faces or protecters should do the trick I assume.
I had in mind sticking it to one of the sides with a bit of tape to hold it in place, but that might leave an inpression. So maybe a bit of tape on the wire that sticks out to holdin place? And then gently aply pressure.
That will not give the teardrop shape or the sometimes seen sharp edged eye shape, but the draw plates mentioned are an option. I will have to ask my sister someday (we hardly see aech other as she moved to the other side of the world sadly) she used to do silver jewellery and such

[krow113]

  I have seen this discussed on this forum a number of years ago. The consensus then , if I remember correctly , was that the vice method was an imprecise way to make struts. Struts are generally in a teardrop shape and the vice affords little in the way of creating anything other than shapes with parallel sides.
 In doing the work one will soon realize that there is a critical moment when the tube collapse's , at that moment you really don't have any control over what is happening. So it could be argued that it is impossible to make a series of identical struts using the 'vice method' .
Just my opinion. I have never tried it other than once and didn't like losing control of the action.

In larger scales I believe there is an opening for aftermarket involvement, I think cast struts would be ok, metal or resin.

If you look at The Little Blue Bugger thread in the resin kit section of the forum , you can see wire wrapped in sign vinyl which worked a treat for the replacement of the kits unworkable resin parts.

[RLWP]

Could you use a vice with vice protectors and the strut method?
I mean the strut tool is reall only the same thing.
Ray

Yes, that's how I do it, only I have turned my vice jaws around so the flat back squashes the tube not the cross hatched front

No, it doesn't produce a teardrop shaped strut - are they teardrop shaped not oval? I've never been bothered enough to do anything about that. If I did I'd file the trailing edge to a point. There looks to be enough squashed brass to do that

Richard

[rayb24]

No, it doesn't produce a teardrop shaped strut - are they teardrop shaped not oval? I've never been bothered enough to do anything about that. If I did I'd file the trailing edge to a point. There looks to be enough squashed brass to do that

Richard

True the would be oval and some struts were just that, along with round and teardrop... depends on use and aircraft...
I looked at the drawing method and there is an awful lot of reheating metal.  I’d probably burn the house down...
https://youtu.be/a846f7XfSVI
Ray

[Berman]

 Annealing brass wire can be quickly done by passing it through the flame on your stove if you do not have a torch. Since there are many sizes of brass wire available, you can start with the diameter closest to your desired drawplate size.

[Bughunter]

If it matches, I use wood (with brass pins for mounting) for the struts.

Two examples of my models in 1/48:
Sopwith Pup, the struts, prop and the cockpit cover are real wood.
Phönix D.I here struts, prop and underside of fuselage are wood.

If it works in 1/48 it would work in 1/32 even better.

Cheers,
Frank