Rigging For Everyone

[jknaus]

Awesome tutorial. I'll keep this handy for when I summon up a backbone and try rigging some of my birds. Many thanks.
James

[davewad]

Excellent tutorial and thanks to Des and PrzemoL for making it available and Peter for presenting it in PDF format.

Cheers

Dave

[steveb]

Thank you for putting this together! Very informative!

Steve

[Monty]

I am so glad this is posted on the site! It has to be the best tutorial ever! Regards, Marc

[Derrick]

So no using of ez line at all for 1/32 aircraft ? Is it that bad ?

[PrzemoL]

First of all, I am glad there are so many people interested in my compilation. I truly hope it may help you in this step of WW1 aircraft modelling.

Derrick, I know people, including WNW team themselves, suggest EZ line for rigging. I know it may be easier to use it than monofilament. But in my opinion EZLine is too soft for rigging and stiffening the wing cellule in 32nd scale. It absolutely would not work for pusher tail booms. As for the wings, WNW kits have them very heavy (solid plastic chunks) and with larger spans (two seaters, not to mention Felixstowe) you may have problems with keeping the geometry without proper stiffening. Also, if one plans to transport models, to competitions or wherever, more stiffness is always better for the safety of your model.
Additionally, it is not easy to control the thickness of EZ line, when you tension it, it will contract across the thickness, and you may end up with parallel lines looking different. Monofilament keeps the cross-section constant, you will not be able to tension it that much so that lateral contraction shows off.
And finally, I find it more fiddly to glue the ends of a line without eyelets and tubes. Keeping the surface near struts free of glue stains can be a problem in this case.
All in all, the above presentation is only my proposal and a result of my relatively short experience with rigging. And by no means do I claim this is the only or the best way. It works very fine for me and if anyone tries it and decides it may work for him - fine. If not, no problem, either. 

[Des]

Just to add my 2 cents worth to what Przemol has already said.

I only build 1:32 scale so where structural strength is required I always use monofilament, the one I use is called Maxima Chameleon, it is 0.12mm. This fishing line is very easy to use and will take a lot of weight, CA bonds to it extremely well. Where structural strength is not required I use Modelkasten 0.13mm elastic thread, it is not as stretchy as EZ Line, it is round, does not require very much stretch to maintain tension, CA bonds it very well and paint takes to it.

Des.

[lcarroll]

So no using of ez line at all for 1/32 aircraft ? Is it that bad ?

Derrick,
    I use the same two products as Des for most of a rigging job and some EZ Line as well. Most times I'll use EZ Line for the Cabanes as it is very flexible and, on mounting the upper wing, the cabanes seem to require a little bending to fit and thus the wires remain taut. Exceptions recently are the tail boom assemblies of the DH.2 and FE2b; I had huge warpage problems, even with Modelkasten and in the end used EZ Line for most of the assemblies. It worked for me however the "flat" profile of the product does catch the eye up close.
   I like the way Przemol puts it, there is no "best or only way" it's what works for you that counts!
Cheers,
Lance

[kajones1644]

Excellent tutorial. Whats the consensus on Gaspatch turnbuckles? 1/48 or 1/32? I seem to remember people using 1/48 on 1/32nd builds as they felt they were overscale.

[lcarroll]

I use their 1:48 versions for 1:32 Scale Builds for the reason you state. Great product but be careful with alignment, they don't bend well and if they are out of alignment with the line itself it's immediately apparent.
Cheers,
Lance

[Oeli]

Hi,

i wanna say thanks for this nice Tutorial and for the PDF! 

Regards
Jörg

[PrzemoL]

Excellent tutorial. Whats the consensus on Gaspatch turnbuckles? 1/48 or 1/32? I seem to remember people using 1/48 on 1/32nd builds as they felt they were overscale.

I use 32 scale Gaspatch for main rigging lines, when they should be (not on British RAF wires) and smaller 48 scale ones for control lines.

Great product but be careful with alignment, they don't bend well and if they are out of alignment with the line itself it's immediately apparent.
Cheers,
Lance

Yes, they do not bend but one can create hinged connections, as I showed in the presentation.

[lcarroll]

Prze,
    Your solution for the alignment problem is excellent, I had some Type C's on hand and added a note to my "order book" to get more. I think my Type A's could easily be converted to "no ends" with a side cutter and a little filing as well. Again, excellent work on  this lesson!
Cheers,
Lance

[PrzemoL]

Prze,
    Your solution for the alignment problem is excellent, I had some Type C's on hand and added a note to my "order book" to get more. I think my Type A's could easily be converted to "no ends" with a side cutter and a little filing as well. Again, excellent work on  this lesson!
Cheers,
Lance

Lance, I have found out that the 3D printed material Gaspatch uses for the turnbuckles is extremely hard, almost no chance to sand, drill or even cut. The only action that can be done on it is breaking.

[lcarroll]

Prze,
    Your solution for the alignment problem is excellent, I had some Type C's on hand and added a note to my "order book" to get more. I think my Type A's could easily be converted to "no ends" with a side cutter and a little filing as well. Again, excellent work on  this lesson!
Cheers,
Lance

Lance, I have found out that the 3D printed material Gaspatch uses for the turnbuckles is extremely hard, almost no chance to sand, drill or even cut. The only action that can be done on it is breaking.

   Yes, very difficult to work with, but I've had some success with it using the Tamiya Diamond file they sell for Photo etch. I have had NO luck at all trying to drill out the loop on the odd blocked one, the eyelet just snaps off!
Cheers,
Lance