WnW Sopwith Snipe Late

[Juan]

Looking good Alistair, sorry to hear about your pushrod problem.  Looking forward to your progress.

[jeroen_R90S]

Looks good!

I use a JLC razor saw, too. If I'm very careful, even flimsy Roden struts get removed in one piece. (trying to clean the up, however....) I have also found sometimes the sequence of how to saw helps. If you saw the outer parts of, say, a D.VII wing struts first, they are very flimsy, but doing the "stiffer" inner parts and leaving the flimsy outer parts for last helps, sometimes.
The drilling method is one I'll definately try sometime soon!

Jeroen

[Ian from Doncaster]

Often with delicate parts I cut off with a blade, with the part resting on a suitable block of wood to stop any pressing down or distortion of the part and sprue, before the cut takes... I try to cut in a logical sequence to minimise the stresses on the parts.

I have to say however, that even using the traditional garden shears sprue cutters, WNW parts have seldom broken on me.. It is a different story with other brands though!

Great work on the "office" Alistair!

[Oeli]

Hi Alister,

Looks like a very clean work out what you show here.

Very beautiful!

Looking Forward what you will show us next.

regards
Jörg

[RAGIII]

Beautiful work! I like your choice of grey for the Battleship grey cowl potion of the fuselage.
RAGIII

[aliluke]

Thanks all
I have started the exterior colour - chocolate brown - this is for paint scheme "E".



 I followed Lance's technique that he used on his Snipe. Sprayed with chocolate and then masked the high points on the frame and then washed the low points. After I did this I over sprayed with another coat of chocolate. The effect is very subtle and hard to photo but it looks miles better than a uniform coat of brown. You get an impression of the underlying structure. I'm happy with the result and after another clear coat I can tackle the wings.

I was a bit dubious about the chocolate colour wondering if it'd look terrible but it is a really nice colour. 

Cheers
Alistair

[Manni]

Great progress and a nice choice of scheme.
Manni

[steveb]

The color variations are indeed subtle, but do show up in photos. Looks convincing to me. The "wood" really looks like wood when viewed with the other parts.

Steve

[aliluke]

Hi
Added transfers to the hull...decals to the fuselage. My chosen colour scheme demanded some very difficult ones on the engine cowl. But the decals that WNW provide are incredibly good and they worked out OK after a few words otherwise. As for my modelling....too many glitches and a lack of understanding of the fragility of plastic kits but I'm learning and the advice here is great. It needs a coat of matte but I'd really like to know how you can tone down the transfers? That is muddy them a little - they are too vibrant. Summer holidays tomorrow - yay - so any advice will be welcomed in a couple of weeks time. And yes it does need an engine.







Cheers
Alistair

[aliluke]

That's quick and good advice - all locked up in the studio now but I will trial when I get back from 2 weeks in Abel Tasman NP.

Thank you Red Baron
Alistair

[boggie]

Very smart looking work Alistair!
Your decal application is excellent, as is your paint.
Looking forward to more.

cheers 

 

[rhwinter]

Very beautiful! This is one of the "Bickendorf"-schemes, isn't it? I work on the site of this former airport and find it nice that WnW provide decals for planes from there.
Richard

[Manni]

Very, very good done. RB said already every thing about tonigng down the decals.
Beatiful place were you spend your holidays. I'm dreaming.....
Manni from Ice cold germany

[Ian from Doncaster]

Excellent decalling, especially on the cowl..

For what it is worth, my method of working over decals is first of all to cov er with a couple of coats of Klear/Future.. This can be sprayed or brushed, and not only seals the decals but also provides a barrier between the decal and further application.

Then I spray with satin varnish from a rattle can.  This takes away some of the gloss, but isn't too flat.  However there is then a very slight "bite" to the surface.  I then dry brush pigment powders or powdered pastels for general staining or exhaust blackening, rib highlighting etc and the pigments then take hold on the surface.

Occasionally I will dry brush over the decal, the same colour that is underneath to show wear and tear.  Literally tear, as I have had to hide damage to torn decals before!

Finally and only if necessary, a further coat of Klear or Satin varnish to finish and seal the weathering..

[RAGIII]

Looks outstanding with the decals. I like the advice Justin has given about toning down the white. I may give it a try myself...soon.
RAGIII